VACList-Digest Saturday, October 6, 2001 Issue 84
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Wheel Wells cracks
2. Re: Wheel Wells cracks
3. floor dry rot?
4. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
5. Re: floor dry rot?
6. Re: Awning replacement?
7. Re: floor dry rot?
8. 1973: gray water tanks?
9. how to buy my first Airstream- Help!
10. Looking forward to my password....
11. Boondocking and Airstreams
12. Re: 1973: gray water tanks?
13. Re: Boondocking and Airstreams
14. Re: Boondocking and Airstreams
15. Re: Gray water
16. Re: Boondocking and Airstreams
17. Re: Awning replacement?
18. Re: Boondocking and Airstreams
19. Re: Awning replacement?
20. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
21. Re: 1973: gray water tanks?
22. Re: Boondocking and Airstreams
23. Re: Awning replacement?
24. Re: Tail Sag
25. Fantastic-Fan Installation Question
26. Re: Fantastic-Fan Installation Question
27. Re: Fantastic-Fan Installation Question
28. Re: Fantastic-Fan Installation Question
29. Re: 1973: gray water tanks?
30. Re: Fantastic-Fan Installation Question
31. Re: Boondocking and Airstreams
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 18:35:12 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Wheel Wells cracks
Sounds like a great product, I wonder if it can be purchased locally here in
the Houston TX area and maybe in smaller quantities. Thanks for the
information
Don Hardman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Bryant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 5:56 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Wheel Wells cracks
> At 02:49 PM 10/5/01 -0500, Don Hardman wrote:
> >After my last trip in the A/S in a rain storm I found water had leaked
in
> >from some cracks in the outer wheel well lining. What would be the
> >suggestion for correcting this problem. My thought is to use a roofing
tare
> >type material spread with several layers over the cracks. Any other
> >suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> I would consider using something like Eternabond
> http://www.eternabond.com/ . Great stuff with very good adhesive
qualities.
>
>
> --
> Chris Bryant
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 18:38:24 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Wheel Wells cracks
Tar was probably the wrong word, I was thinking of that gooey black roofing
leak repair stuff. Charlie Burke had a good suggestion in his post so I am
also checking on this. I will keep everyone posted
Don Hardman
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 5:17 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Wheel Wells cracks
> Don, I wouldn't use tar which tends to dry out and crack. I think
something
> that remains flexible and doesn't dry up and crack is what I will be using
> on my ' 68 Tradewind when I start on the exterior. I have already repaired
> the damaged floor adjacent to the wheel wells where water got in over a
long
> period of time during the previous owership. I was thinking I'd probably
> seal the cracks with Vulkem unless somebody tells me otherwise.
>
> Jim Greene
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 15:49
> Subject: [VAC] Wheel Wells cracks
>
>
> > After my last trip in the A/S in a rain storm I found water had leaked
in
> > from some cracks in the outer wheel well lining. What would be the
> > suggestion for correcting this problem. My thought is to use a roofing
> tare
> > type material spread with several layers over the cracks. Any other
> > suggestions would be appreciated.
> >
> > Also, as a note, especially with the mid 70's trailers if you have not
> > pulled your rig in the rain on wet roads you better check the wheel
wells
> > for cracks. I have had my trailer for over a year and have logged
several
> > thousand miles with it but until the last trip none were in the rain or
on
> > wet roads. I had no idea there was problem. Its a real mess to clean up,
> > luckily most of the water was in the closet and under the cabinets and
> > fridge.
> >
> > Don Hardman
> > 1976 Sovereign
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 20:35:29 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: floor dry rot?
Rotting Floors...
After replacing a floor has anyone come up with a good treatment of the
wood to keep rotting from happening again? I know the preventive measures
to take to keep water from coming in contact with the wood but sometimes
water leaks occur the owner is not aware of. I thought of using
polyurethane varnish but don't want to endure the out gassing from it. I'm
planning on using a 2-part epoxy paint. Anyone have thoughts on this
treatment? Does anyone have a better idea?
Bob Patterson
>The amount of work depends on where the rot is. I have had 3 Airstreams with
>rotting/rotted wood flooring. They were all just one misplaced foot from
>becoming a hole.
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 20:42:46 -0400
From: D Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
Been washing my front step and watering my plants for years with grey
water. Grease down the sink, now there's a real no-no, and the dogs eat
the food bits.
Daisy
j eric townsend wrote:
>
> At 9:35 PM -0400 10/4/01, D Welch wrote:
> >Nope, it's plumbed right to the ground.
> >
> [...]
> >Nothing wrong with
> >grey water,
>
> I beg to differ. If you're camping in an area with
> pack-it-in/pack-it-out rules, all that dish detergent, food bits off
> plates, grease from the frying pan, used shampoo and toothpaste, etc,
> is a no-no.
>
> My rule usually is -- If you're not willing to dump it on the front
> step of your house, don't dump it on the campsite.
> --
> J. Eric Townsend -- http://www.spies.com/jet
>
> Were you in USASSG/ACSI/MACV in Vietnam, 1967-1970? Drop me a line if so...
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 21:03:52 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: floor dry rot?
Bob, a number of vintage restorers/repairers (myself included) have used a
two-part penetrating epoxy. It strengthens soft floors and should prevent
further water damage. I don't know about the outgasing. It's supposed to be
applied with good ventilation.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 20:35
Subject: [VAC] floor dry rot?
> Rotting Floors...
>
> After replacing a floor has anyone come up with a good treatment of the
> wood to keep rotting from happening again? I know the preventive measures
> to take to keep water from coming in contact with the wood but sometimes
> water leaks occur the owner is not aware of. I thought of using
> polyurethane varnish but don't want to endure the out gassing from it. I'm
> planning on using a 2-part epoxy paint. Anyone have thoughts on this
> treatment? Does anyone have a better idea?
>
> Bob Patterson
>
>
> >The amount of work depends on where the rot is. I have had 3 Airstreams
with
> >rotting/rotted wood flooring. They were all just one misplaced foot from
> >becoming a hole.
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 19:11:20 -0700
From: Pearl Main <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Awning replacement?
"David W. Lowrey" call them 708-437-0980 they are in Elk Grove village ILL
they are most helpful. Yes I have had new awning material put on by them at
their fctory tho I can't remember what the cost was....It was the street side and
not the big one and large branch had falled and went thru it. Pearl in SoCal
> Has anyone replaced the fabric on a Zip-Dee awning?
>
> How hard was it to do? I have a 31' Airstream, so the awning is rather large.
>
> How much did it cost?
>
> Dave
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> Dave Lowrey | E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> | mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Trying hard to recreate what's never been created...
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 22:22:05 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: floor dry rot?
In a message dated 10/5/01 8:43:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
<< I thought of using
polyurethane varnish but don't want to endure the out gassing from it. I'm
planning on using a 2-part epoxy paint. Anyone have thoughts on this
treatment? Does anyone have a better idea?
Bob Patterson
>>
Never had to deal with that problem, but how about pressure treated plywood?
J.L.Dietz #4361
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 19:26:07 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1973: gray water tanks?
At 04:06 PM 10/4/2001 -0400, JL Dietz wrote:
>I believe sometime around 73 Aux. (gray) tanks were added.
So, it that the guess of the group? If I looked at Airstreams from about
1973 forward I would find trailers with a fresh, gray and black holding tanks?
On earlier Airstreams, with out a gray holding tank, I have a question....
If I were at a camp ground with full hook ups, would my gray water flow
into the sewer hookup, or onto the ground?
jack in Portland Oregon
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 19:38:34 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: how to buy my first Airstream- Help!
Kevin....
Thanks for all the thought full information!
>After having towed my '64 Overlander with three tow vehicles, I would
>definitely want to be sure that my truck was a 3/4 ton with a large V8.
I have a 1972 Ford V8 Camper Special that I believe will do the job.
>Repairs aren't going to be that much different between a trailer of the '60s
>as compared to the mid '70s.
OK. I like the look of the '60 models better anyway.
>If your primary concern that is preventing you from considering a 60s coach
>is parts availability, don't let this immediately deter you. So long as the
>coach is in good condition to begin with, there isn't a tremendous problem
>with finding most wear parts.
Ah! OK.
>I looked at both rear and
>side/center bath models and quickly ruled out side/center baths as they
>proved much too claustraphobic for me - - I really like the openness of the
>rear bath in my Overlander.
Hummm. I never considered the size of the bathroom. I am a big guy, so
maybe I should look at the rear bath models and just deal with the rear
tail droop problem.
>I am sure that someone on the list can fill you
>in on identifying frame droop - - I know it has something to do with ripples
>in the skin in the vicinity of the wheel openings - - and a steel plate of
>some type is visible on the frame in the wheel well area if the repair has
>been made.
OK. Perhaps someone will post a picture of this.
> A second potential problem is rear frame separation where the
>rear bumper moves independently of the rear of the coach when firm, heavy
>pressure is applied to the rear bumper - - this was a problem that was
>beginning to develop on my coach which was stopped by removing the
>aftermarket rear mounted spare tire carrier and repaired by reinforcing the
>frame and some of the rear outriggers.
New information. OK, I will keep this in mind.
> A number of listees have written of
>converting their rigs from HydraVac discs to standard drum type
>electrics - - cost can be quite a factor especially if done by a dealer.
Could someone on the list post a ballpark price for having a dealer install
standard drums/electric?
Sounds like this is the way to go??
>Good luck with your decision and hunt!
Thanks for the great tips!!
jack in Portland Oregon
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 19:43:24 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Looking forward to my password....
I joined the Vintage Airstream Club a while back. I keep looking in my
mailbox every day to see if a newsletter will arrive. Nothing so far...
I wish it would come so I can get my PASSWORD and start reading more at the
Vintage Airstream Web Page.
jack in Portland Oregon
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 19:50:58 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Boondocking and Airstreams
I am the kind of person who will go "off road" and stay in one location for
a few weeks at a time. I have a interest in botany and geology and want
some time to study plants and animals in different areas...
I know I will retrofit a Airstream with solar, and more and different
batteries. I have not thought though the water holding ability of
Airstreams before. It sound like:
1) The fresh water holding tank is not very large
2) the gray and black holding tanks are not very large
Any boondocking Airstream folks on this list? Are Airstreams hard/easy to
retrofit with better water handling capabilities? Perhaps they do well as
they are? Any tips?
jack in Oregon
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 23:22:05 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1973: gray water tanks?
At 07:26 PM 10/5/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>On earlier Airstreams, with out a gray holding tank, I have a question....
>
>If I were at a camp ground with full hook ups, would my gray water flow
>into the sewer hookup, or onto the ground?
If you were connected to the sewer, then it would flow into the
sewer; otherwise it would flow wherever you directed it - auxiliary "tote"
tank or onto the ground.
- Dick
(5368)
"Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 23:33:59 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Boondocking and Airstreams
In a message dated 10/5/01 10:56:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<<
1) The fresh water holding tank is not very large
Not exactly what I meant, 45 to 50 gal. if conserved will last awhile, what I
said was there is 5 of us and 3 have the on going need to shower 2X daily.
You need water hook up for that kind of usage.
2) the gray and black holding tanks are not very large
In the years you inquired about that is true. If you don't have to have
vintage the newer units holding tanks are larger.
J.L.Dietz #4361
>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 21:30:16 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Boondocking and Airstreams
The water capacity is great, if you plan on consuming water as if you
were carrying it on your back. E.g. use by the cup, not the gallon.
Gallon jugs travel well in the back of the truck and in the Airstream's
shower to add to the available water supply. This travel option doesn't
involve taking showers anyway, just the occasional sponge bath in two
cups of warm water. Water use would be extended by using disposable
paper plates and plastic cutlery, though that builds up too. I prefer to
use a cup of hot water to wash more substantial plates and utensils
myself.
Various sizes and eras of Airstreams have different sized tanks. The
early ones used air pressurized water supply tanks and so didn't hold as
much water as the tank would hold, and then the tanks tended to be
cylindrical (in cubic spaces) so the tanks didn't hold as much water as
the space could have allowed. The later water systems don't keep the
water under pressure and let the pump deliver water on demand. Its
noisier, but then the water tank can start out full, and can be made
rectangular without worrying so much about pressure bowing out the
sides.
Some very early Airstreams had no tanks at all, but were planned to only
stay in organized parks. The tail problems in the early 70s came from
adding gray water tanks out at the back, without adding the structural
strength required to carry them filled with water.
Trying to use any trailer's black water tanks with black contents only
for several weeks may end up with clogged black tanks leading to messy
cleaning. They'd probably be helped by occasional doses of gray water to
help keep the contents from drying out.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 23:00:47 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Gray water
Really, with a blue portable tank, gray water is no trouble at all. If I
didn't have a gray water tank, I wouldn't bother retrofitting one in, and
would just use a portable.
You're right about gray water. I looked up the subject on the web, and
multiple sources say it's fine to use for watering everything but edible
vegetables. My host's hosta's love the stuff!
Dan Weeks
75 Argosy 26
Des Moines
> From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 16:33:45 -0700
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC]
>
> Nothing wrong with
> grey water, I think it is all a plot among plumbers and bored
> bureaucrats.
>
> Daisy
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 22:09:31 -0600
From: jere potter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Boondocking and Airstreams
Jack- I think the present capabilities of most airstreams are adequate without
expanding or enlarging. We keep our 64 Safari in the mountains with no water
or power supply. The 30 gal fresh water on board tank is generous, I feel,
for most uses. We haul water up from town 35 miles away in a 30 gal
polyethylene tank, and refill from that by gravity. I could access local
surface water, but would rather not risk having to treat it, etc. My city
water is the best, and most convenient.
For Gray water, I have it drain into a buried corrugated poly pipe that goes
about 10 ft over to a covered hole. When on the road, we use a 10 gal blue
tank.
Black water tank is used minimally, but emptied when we take it to town before
a trip.
I have a 55 watt solar panel on top which charges the marine deep cycle
battery. It is mounted flat for simplicity, and adequately charges our battery
between visits. This is also connected to a pair of 6 volt golf cart
batteries about 30 feet away in a storage shed. I put these together in a
wooden box enclosure, with a1000 watt inverter on top of them. This box has a
pair of good handles for two people to move if need be, to load into my pickup
if I wanted to take to town to charge them or travel with them, though I have
not. Between the two I have an extension cord that I alternate in two modes:
1. As a 110 volt supply from the inverter in the shed to the trailer, to
operate microwave, VCR/TV, when I want. 2. Then, when we go away, I unplug
this cord, and reconnect it to special receptacles that operate in the other
direction, on the 12 volt side, so that the solar panel charges the trailer
battery, plus the two big batteries in the shed. This setup works well for my
needs, not nesc. yours, but any of the ideas are yours for use or adaptation
for your needs. I envy being able to stay out for weeks at a time. Good Luck !
Jere Potter
Ft. Collins, CO.
Jack Honeycutt wrote:
> I am the kind of person who will go "off road" and stay in one location for
> a few weeks at a time. I have a interest in botany and geology and want
> some time to study plants and animals in different areas...
>
> I know I will retrofit a Airstream with solar, and more and different
> batteries. I have not thought though the water holding ability of
> Airstreams before. It sound like:
>
> 1) The fresh water holding tank is not very large
>
> 2) the gray and black holding tanks are not very large
>
> Any boondocking Airstream folks on this list? Are Airstreams hard/easy to
> retrofit with better water handling capabilities? Perhaps they do well as
> they are? Any tips?
>
> jack in Oregon
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 22:16:23 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Awning replacement?
"David W. Lowrey" wrote:
> Has anyone replaced the fabric on a Zip-Dee awning?
>
> How hard was it to do? I have a 31' Airstream, so the awning is rather large.
>
> How much did it cost?
>
> Dave
>
> ________________
Now that's a project. The fabric, as I recall is about $20-25 a linear foot all
cut and stitched up. It will come with rivets to attach the fabric to the awning
tube after it is installed. The original color is called Blue Fancy and it is
still available.
The first step in the project is to unwind the torsion spring. This must be done
with great care as the spring has a great deal of tension on it.
The major challenge to changing the fabric is getting it off and back on the
first metal slat. The fabric is crimped into the last slat of the metal wrap. It
has to be very carefully spread to release the fabric and then recrimped without
damaging the show face of the wrap. Most recently when we have replaced fabric we
order it already mounted in the slat. While this usually makes it into a truck
freight order, the savings in time and job quality make it well worth it.
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 01:28:46 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Boondocking and Airstreams
Jack,
I do quite a bit of boondocking myself and carry a plastic 55 gal drum of
fresh water in my truck. They are cheep. You can find them at car wash
places and other business owners that buy bulk liquids. I paid 10 bucks for
mine but went overboard and mounted a Sureflow water pump on top with a pvc
tube extending to the bottom. You could siphon just as easy. If you find
one used, just put a couple gals of bleech in it and fill it with water, let
it sit in the sun a few days and, empty it ......you have doubled your fresh
water capasity.
As for the holding tanks, if you are in the boonies, your grey water isn't
going to hurt anything, the polution from your truck will do worse. I agree
with not letting it go in campgrounds and sensitive areas though. The black
water is a different story.....I know what I would do, having learned how to
improvise in the Army, but the politacally correct answer is to buy an
portable auxillary holding tank that you can drain into. Remember you have
to lift it so size does matter if your in the boonies.
Look into solar for your batteries if you plan on extended stays, or a small
generater for short stays.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 21:09:23 -0500
From: "Childers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Awning replacement?
I've taken mine off to cut the awning down. Zip-Dee(800-338-2378) Faxed me
step by step instructions on removing the awning from the trailer and
removing the fabric from the tube and casing assembly. Removing and
installing the awning is definitely a 2 person job, the remainder of the job
can be done by one person. I don't know what the cost of the Sunbrella
material would be.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: David W. Lowrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 2:35 PM
Subject: [VAC] Awning replacement?
> Has anyone replaced the fabric on a Zip-Dee awning?
>
> How hard was it to do? I have a 31' Airstream, so the awning is rather
large.
>
> How much did it cost?
>
> Dave
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> Dave Lowrey | E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> | mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Trying hard to recreate what's never been created...
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2001 11:12:20 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
Daisy,
Good point! We don't dump either food particles or grease, etc. down
the sink and are careful to use products that are labeled as more or
less enviornmentally friendly.
When we're at home, I open the grey water valve and let it drain on the
ground where the trailer sits. Although we don't usually eat in the
trailer while at home, my wife DOES clean it, washing the sink, etc.
FWIW: I'd have no trouble dumping that grey water on my front steps, so
I guess it meets Eric's test. :-)
<<Jim>>
D Welch wrote:
>
> Been washing my front step and watering my plants for years with grey
> water. Grease down the sink, now there's a real no-no, and the dogs eat
> the food bits.
>
> Daisy
>
> j eric townsend wrote:
> >
> > At 9:35 PM -0400 10/4/01, D Welch wrote:
> > >Nope, it's plumbed right to the ground.
> > >
> > [...]
> > >Nothing wrong with
> > >grey water,
> >
> > I beg to differ. If you're camping in an area with
> > pack-it-in/pack-it-out rules, all that dish detergent, food bits off
> > plates, grease from the frying pan, used shampoo and toothpaste, etc,
> > is a no-no.
> >
> > My rule usually is -- If you're not willing to dump it on the front
> > step of your house, don't dump it on the campsite.
> > --
> > J. Eric Townsend -- http://www.spies.com/jet
> >
> >
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2001 11:14:09 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1973: gray water tanks?
Jack,
You're exactly correct: when connected to a sewer, you leave the valve
open on your gray water tank and let it run down the drain as you make
it. Same thing if you don't have a GW tank.
<<Jim>>
Jack Honeycutt wrote:
>
> At 04:06 PM 10/4/2001 -0400, JL Dietz wrote:
>
> >I believe sometime around 73 Aux. (gray) tanks were added.
>
> So, it that the guess of the group? If I looked at Airstreams from about
> 1973 forward I would find trailers with a fresh, gray and black holding tanks?
>
> On earlier Airstreams, with out a gray holding tank, I have a question....
>
> If I were at a camp ground with full hook ups, would my gray water flow
> into the sewer hookup, or onto the ground?
>
> jack in Portland Oregon
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2001 11:28:10 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Boondocking and Airstreams
Jack,
The longest we've stayed in one place while boondocking was 3 weeks.
Here's what we do:
We have a 25 gallon sprayer tank that I bought from Northern Tools, and
a tiny 2GPM pump from Micro Mark, along with 20" or so of Tygon tubing.
I connect it to a pigtail from the electric tongue jack for power when
transferring the contents to the FW tank in the trailer. If we're
working, we each shower every day, and have found that we must refill
every other day. (10-15 gallons/day of usage, depending...)
We've always been able to run the grey water on the ground when
boondocking, so that's not a worry.
Our BW tank will easily go a week, probably could make 2 if necessary.
While camped this Summer, we drained it into our blue tank, put it into
the P/U, and hauled it to the local KOA, where they charged an
exhorbitant $10.00 to dump. No, it isn't fun, and yes, it can even be a
bit messy, but it DOES wash off.
There are a pair of 75-watt solar panels on the top of the trailer, and
we've never wanted for power. Several of the light fixtures were either
changed to flourescents or had the bulbs swapped for lower-wattage ones.
Our TV is tiny, and we're otherwise careful. HOWEVER: We don't sit in
the dark or use candles. Both of us like to read, my wife does
needlework, we run the fan in the bathroom, and occassionaly use the
furnace. Even a couple of days w/o sunlight isn't a problem, and we have
only 2 Group 24 batteries, just 160 AH of storage. Our calculated usage
is about 20 AH/Day, and the eMeter confirms that number.
We could have stayed in that one place all Summer using the above
procedures.
<<Jim>>
Jack Honeycutt wrote:
>
> I am the kind of person who will go "off road" and stay in one location for
> a few weeks at a time. I have a interest in botany and geology and want
> some time to study plants and animals in different areas...
>
> I know I will retrofit a Airstream with solar, and more and different
> batteries. I have not thought though the water holding ability of
> Airstreams before. It sound like:
>
> 1) The fresh water holding tank is not very large
>
> 2) the gray and black holding tanks are not very large
>
> Any boondocking Airstream folks on this list? Are Airstreams hard/easy to
> retrofit with better water handling capabilities? Perhaps they do well as
> they are? Any tips?
>
> jack in Oregon
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 19:10:29 -0400
From: "Robert Gill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Awning replacement?
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C14DD1.65E9A880
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Good question Dave.
I too, would like to change the fabric on my 29' Ambassador's awning?
Bobby
=20
----- Original Message -----
From: David W. Lowrey
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 3:38 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Awning replacement?
=20
Has anyone replaced the fabric on a Zip-Dee awning?
How hard was it to do? I have a 31' Airstream, so the awning is rather la=
rge.
How much did it cost?
Dave
_________________________________________________________________________=
_
Dave Lowrey | E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-
Trying hard to recreate what's never been created...
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C14DD1.65E9A880
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Good question =
Dave.</DIV> <DIV>I too, would like to change the fabric on my 29' Ambassa=
dor's awning?</DIV> <DIV>Bobby</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D=
"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0=
00000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----=
- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 1=
0pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> David W. Lowrey</DIV> <DIV style=3D=
"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, October 05, 2001 3:38 PM</DIV> <D=
IV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> Multiple recipients of VACList</=
DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Awning replace=
ment?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV>Has anyone replaced the fabric on a Zip-Dee =
awning?<BR><BR>How hard was it to do? I have a 31' Airstream, so the awni=
ng is rather large.<BR><BR>How much did it cost?<BR><BR>Dave<BR><BR>_____=
_____________________________________________________________________<BR>=
Dave Lowrey &=
nbsp; | E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]=
<BR> &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p; | mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<BR>------------------------------=
--------------------------------------------<BR>Trying hard to recreate w=
hat's never been created...<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>To unsubscribe or change t=
o a daily Digest format, please go to<BR>http://airstream.net/vaclist/lis=
toffice.html<BR><BR>When replying to a message, please delete all unneces=
sary original text<BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C14DD1.65E9A880--
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 01 10:34:48 -0600
From: Roy Lashway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tail Sag
>I looked under and saw a couple of small wrinkles between the axles on
>the frame.
>Airstream was good enough to send me a picture of the reinforcment plates
>so that I could make my own but the instructions that told how to install
>it said one must remove the axles to attach it.
>I don't have a problem making the plate but lifting that much weight to
>remove the axles sounds mucho dangerous as I have to do it outside in my
>yard.
>
>What do you folks think of just making a shorter plate to bolt between
>the axles?
>I would not have to remove the axles that way.
>I do not live anywhere near a dealer so the "take it to the dealer"
>option is out.
==========
Trailer sag supposedly only happened to those trailers with the grey
water tank which, I believe, were added to the later models in 1972. If
you have sag you should be able to grab the rear bumper and move frame up
and down without movement in trailer body? Your seeing wrinkles in the
frame seems pretty unusual to me. Friend of mine installed the factory
provided plates in a '74, 31ft unit. He jacked trailer up with two
hydralic jacks at the axles and then blocked up the ends. Trailer has to
be level for installation of plate. You need to let trailer set blocked
up for couple of days so frame has time to adjust then do a final
leveling. If you do no have any gap and movement when pulling on bumper
your additon of a shorter plate should provide necessary reinforcement to
frame.
An Arizona A/S dealer quoted $1500.00 to do the plate install. on the
'74.
Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610 VAC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
(polishing report included)
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 14:06:20 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Fantastic-Fan Installation Question
Greetings,
I am installing a Fantastic-Fan and question the installation instructions.
The company says to put a foam seal (that they provide) between the fan
housing and the outside of the skin of the roof, then screw to roof and then
apply 1/4" beed of silicone on the outside of the housing where it meets the
roof.
This seems fine but it seems to me that given the rivets on the roof that not
using the foam but using Vulkem both between the roof and the plastic housing
and letting the surplus squize out after screwing down, then applying a bead
of Vulkem on the outside would be best.
Anyone have any experience or suggestions? I hate to not install per the
company instructions but for this application it seems best.......
Thanks,
John Semon
San Luis Obispo, Ca
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2001 12:54:59 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fantastic-Fan Installation Question
Vulkem isn't ordinary caulk. It will probably hold that fan down without
screws if you put in your double beads. It may allow removal only by
pieces when the fan needs maintenance off the roof. Otherwise it
probably will not leak Vulkemed your way. Silicone wishes to work half
as well as Vulkem. You will use a lot less Vulkem with the foam backer
seal.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2001 14:19:50 -0500
From: jim clark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fantastic-Fan Installation Question
At 02:06 PM 10/06/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>I am installing a Fantastic-Fan and question the installation instructions.
>The company says to put a foam seal (that they provide) between the fan
>housing and the outside of the skin of the roof, then screw to roof and then
>apply 1/4" beed of silicone on the outside of the housing where it meets the
>roof.
>This seems fine but it seems to me that given the rivets on the roof that not
>using the foam but using Vulkem both between the roof and the plastic housing
>and letting the surplus squize out after screwing down, then applying a bead
>of Vulkem on the outside would be best.
>Anyone have any experience or suggestions? I hate to not install per the
>company instructions but for this application it seems best.......
>
>Thanks,
>John Semon
>San Luis Obispo, Ca
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>John:
I wouldn't worry too much about not following the factory directions... I
have a "factory installed" unit that we purchased at the International...
The inside housing has a curvature like the roof and looks good. The
outside housing apparently is the same as they install on a flat roof, and
the sealant looks like it was applied with a trowel... Why they can't make
a plastic spacer that matches the various years of Airstream is beyond me...
Hope you can make the flat surface fit the curved roof with the foam and
then seal well enough to keep the water out... The fan works fine... just
like advertised...
Jim
Jim Clark
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2001 12:14:45 -0700
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fantastic-Fan Installation Question
i've installed three FanTastics, and i don't use the foam seal.
do the installation without it - that was the recommendation i got from my
local (trusted) rv guy.
Tuna
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2001 11:06 AM
Subject: [VAC] Fantastic-Fan Installation Question
> Greetings,
> I am installing a Fantastic-Fan and question the installation
instructions.
> The company says to put a foam seal (that they provide) between the fan
> housing and the outside of the skin of the roof, then screw to roof and
then
> apply 1/4" beed of silicone on the outside of the housing where it meets
the
> roof.
> This seems fine but it seems to me that given the rivets on the roof that
not
> using the foam but using Vulkem both between the roof and the plastic
housing
> and letting the surplus squize out after screwing down, then applying a
bead
> of Vulkem on the outside would be best.
> Anyone have any experience or suggestions? I hate to not install per the
> company instructions but for this application it seems best.......
>
> Thanks,
> John Semon
> San Luis Obispo, Ca
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2001 18:43:41 -0400
From: D Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1973: gray water tanks?
Right into the sewer.
When you have a grey tank, you send the poop first, and then open the
grey to flush the poop on through. Without it, I send a lot of flushes
down after it with the shower head in the toilet.
Note that in any case, you must'nt leave the black valve open or dump
too often. You need a good tidal wave and enough liquid to keep things
from drying out and becoming poop and tp Himalays in there.
Daisy ( who has her cork floor about 1/3 down,lookin good)
Jack Honeycutt wrote:
>
> At 04:06 PM 10/4/2001 -0400, JL Dietz wrote:
>
> >I believe sometime around 73 Aux. (gray) tanks were added.
>
> So, it that the guess of the group? If I looked at Airstreams from about
> 1973 forward I would find trailers with a fresh, gray and black holding tanks?
>
> On earlier Airstreams, with out a gray holding tank, I have a question....
>
> If I were at a camp ground with full hook ups, would my gray water flow
> into the sewer hookup, or onto the ground?
>
> jack in Portland Oregon
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2001 19:11:53 -0400
From: D Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fantastic-Fan Installation Question
Hi john, go see:
http://www.tiac.net/users/jtdjtd/aspix/airstream3.html
there you will see pix of my fan installation
Daisy ( you can't have too much Vulkem)
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Greetings,
> I am installing a Fantastic-Fan and question the installation instructions.
> The company says to put a foam seal (that they provide) between the fan
> housing and the outside of the skin of the roof, then screw to roof and then
> apply 1/4" beed of silicone on the outside of the housing where it meets the
> roof.
> This seems fine but it seems to me that given the rivets on the roof that not
> using the foam but using Vulkem both between the roof and the plastic housing
> and letting the surplus squize out after screwing down, then applying a bead
> of Vulkem on the outside would be best.
> Anyone have any experience or suggestions? I hate to not install per the
> company instructions but for this application it seems best.......
>
> Thanks,
> John Semon
> San Luis Obispo, Ca
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2001 19:22:15 -0400
From: D Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Boondocking and Airstreams
One of the parts of my fantasy in the boondocks is to put in a hand pump
like on a sail boat. It uses no power, and it is really hard to use a
lot of water if you have to pump it.
And short hair takes less water.
One more thought, if you get any kind of auxiliary water tank, be sure
it is food grade, and if it was used, only for edible stuff. You might
also want to avoid food stuff like vanilla extract, the barrel will
taste and smell of it forever. I would steer clear of car wash
chemicals..plastic absorbs things.
Daisy (Come the revolution, we'll all be boondocking....)
John R. Kleven wrote:
>
> Jack,
> I do quite a bit of boondocking myself and carry a plastic 55 gal drum of
> fresh water in my truck. They are cheep. You can find them at car wash
> places and other business owners that buy bulk liquids. I paid 10 bucks for
> mine but went overboard and mounted a Sureflow water pump on top with a pvc
> tube extending to the bottom. You could siphon just as easy. If you find
> one used, just put a couple gals of bleech in it and fill it with water, let
> it sit in the sun a few days and, empty it ......you have doubled your fresh
> water capasity.
> As for the holding tanks, if you are in the boonies, your grey water isn't
> going to hurt anything, the polution from your truck will do worse. I agree
> with not letting it go in campgrounds and sensitive areas though. The black
> water is a different story.....I know what I would do, having learned how to
> improvise in the Army, but the politacally correct answer is to buy an
> portable auxillary holding tank that you can drain into. Remember you have
> to lift it so size does matter if your in the boonies.
> Look into solar for your batteries if you plan on extended stays, or a small
> generater for short stays.
> Randy
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
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