VACList-Digest Monday, October 15, 2001 Issue 93
Today's Topics:
1. Re: tow vehicles
2. Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
3. Re: Bargman standard
4. Re: plugged into 220
5. Re: plugged into 220
6. Re:
7. Re: Intelipower Question
8. Re: Intelipower Question
9. Re: '59 Overlander
10. Re: Which Break Controller (maybe a Tekonsha?)
11. Re: Filtered 12 volts???
12. Re: A/S and Internet
13. Fw: [A/S] 1958 20' Airstream
14. Re: A/S and Internet
15. Re: Fw: [A/S] 1958 20' Airstream
16. Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
17. Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
18. Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
19. Re: Truck Stops and Tow Cars
20. Re: Fw: [A/S] 1958 20' Airstream
21. Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
22. Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
23. Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
24. Re: A/S and Internet
25. Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
26. Re: Intelipower Question
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 19:56:30 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: tow vehicles
Kimberly,
The others gave you good advice, go with a full-sized 1/2-ton truck or
even a 3/4-ton outfit if you can find one. Add a good transmission
cooler if you get a 1/2-ton, the 3/4-ton should have one already.
You definitely will want a weight-distributing hitch unless your trailer
is very light and you have a 3/4-ton truck. You'll probably be better
off with that hitch even then, as it makes the entire rig act as a unit
and all the suspension components are working as a team.
"More" is always "Better" when it comes to tow vehicles. I'd also think
about a trailer in the 25' range.
<<Jim>>
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Greetings,
> We would like to know what sort of horse we need to get to pull our
> cart. We are in the process of deciding which model airstream to buy,
> the list right now is 66-69 caravels or 60's globetrotter, or the like.
> We would like to be "summer full timers", our concern is that once
> loaded with our stuff, our present car (a mid size Olds wagon) will not
> be a realistic tow vehicle, especially through the rockies etc... Are
> load levelers necessary?
>
> So what are people using to tow these older models which the ads show
> being towed by a bicycle??? I am certainly not in that kind of shape!
>
> Thanks for your input.
> Kimberly
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 20:12:28 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
Jerry,
As your range top works, we can safely assume that we do have a gas
supply. :-)
If you can't seen any shutoffs, it's possible that there ARE none. I've
heard of spiders getting into gas lines and building nests, but have
never personally experienced it. If it were mine, my next step would
probably be to disconnect the gas lines at all appliances and the
regulator, then get out the ol' blowgun and 100 PSI air to see what is
plugged, and where.
Note that it would be a distinctly bad idea to subject those appliances
to 100 PSI, when they're only supposed to see 11"WC of pressure. The
lines themselves will stand that pressure with no problem.
<<Jim>>
jerry catlin wrote:
>
> Jim
> I finally got a chance to start poking around under my
> trailer, and I didn't see a shutoff valve for the
> water heater (or any other appliance for that matter).
> I took your advice and loosened the connection to
> check if gas was making it to the furnance, and I did
> not smell any gas escaping. The gas line for the
> range top is right next to the gas line for the water
> heater, and the range top works fine.
>
> I'm baffled why gas doesn't seem to be making it to
> the water heater. There is a bunch of insulation
> stuffed around the heater, so I can't follow the gas
> line all the way in from under the trailer to where
> the temperature control is. Is it possible that a
> shutoff valve would be located in the water heater
> compartment and not underneath the trailer?
>
> Very weird.
>
> Jerry
> --- Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Jerry,
> > Look underneath your trailer and you'll see the gas
> > lines. If there's a
> > shutoff valve, it'll be quite near the water heater.
> > Most gas shutoff
> > cocks have a handle that must be in line with the
> > tubing to be 'open',
> > if it's cross-ways, it's 'off'. There may or may not
> > be stops to prevent
> > its being moved too far, so you may have to look at
> > it to be certain
> > that it's where you want it.
> >
> > I'm assuming that you're holding the Red button in,
> > twisting the knob to
> > "Pilot" against the spring, or whatever you have to
> > do to bypass the
> > safety stuff during lighting...
> >
> >
> >
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 20:22:54 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bargman standard
Jack,
Best thing is to bite the bullet and replace the old connector on the
trailer with a new Bargman-style. The old one is probably corroded and
shot anyway.
Do be aware that Airstream's color code isn't necessarily the same as
what is marked on the connector, so you need to match FUNCTION instead
of mere colors. The chart is available many places, one is
http://www.championtrailers.com Your new connector will come with a
"color" chart, but it may not have the "functions" listed.
<<Jim>>
Jack Honeycutt wrote:
>
> At 08:28 PM 10/13/2001 -0500, Gerald J. wrote:
>
> >Its most practical to swap out the connector and connections for the
> >modern Bargman standard so that one can use alternative tow vehicles
> >without rewiring again.
>
> Could one leave the connector on the trailer, and put a Bargman connector
> on the pickup? Then build (or buy?) a cord to connect the two (one end of
> the cord has a Bargman connector to plug into the truck, the other end has
> the old style connector to plug into the trailer).
>
> Or do most just swap out all connectors and make it Bargman all the way?
>
> I was trying to avoid making a mess on the trailer with the install of some
> after market connector that just did not fit or look right....
>
> Thanks for the advice...
>
> jack
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 20:01:00 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: plugged into 220
Thanks Chris and Charlie! I'll use this as the excuse I needed to get the
intellipower converter with charge wizard I hear many rave about. Can most
rv dealers fix the dometic? Can I take a part down to them, or do they need
the whole trailer?
Dan
> From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 16:31:58 -0700
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC]
>
> The Dometic refer is fixable. The converter is not.
>
> Charlie
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 19:32:39 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: plugged into 220
There used to be a shop at Winterset that fixed RV refrigerators. I
don't know their status. They had a fire a year or two ago.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 19:02:43 -0700
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
i'd check the switch. but before that, i'd run a separate (test) ground wire
to the bulb holder.. if it's a ground problem, a sheet metal screw through
the backplate could do it...
tuna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patricia Raimondo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 10:14 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re:
> Greetings All,
> My outside light (by the door) on my 67 Safari has quit! I've changed
> the bulb (2X) and nothing. It worked before making a long road trip.
> Could there be a loose wire? How do I go about looking for it? From my
> manual it looks like the wire originates behind the door above my
> fridge.
> Patti
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 22:22:57 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Intelipower Question
Thanks for the suggestion, Chris. I'm not real confident of the antenna
connection. The Tradewind has an auto type sectional pull out antenna that
wants to flop over on the side pivoting at the mount connected to the skin.
Any idea how to tighten the antenna mount up? No screws visible from the
outside.
Jim Greene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Bryant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 19:15
Subject: [VAC] Re: Intelipower Question
> At 04:24 PM 10/14/01 -0400, James Greene wrote:
> >I recently replaced the Univolt in my ' 68 Tradewind with an InteliPower
55
> >amp converter. Once I had 12 VDC power I installed a auto type AM/FM
> >Cassette radio and CD changer. On the AM band at high volume (trying to
> >adjust the antenna trimmer) I'm getting what sounds like 60 cycle hum. I
> >thought the Intelipower's output was filtered so I'm puzzled by the hum.
>
> It sounds like a ground loop- and not something caused by the
> converter itself. You might try cleaning the antenna connections both at
> the radio and the antenna base- also try disconnecting the antenna and
> seeing if the hum goes away.
>
>
>
> ________
>
> Chris Bryant
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 20:36:31 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Intelipower Question
You will probably have to pop the rivets over the patch on the inside
wall behind that antenna to work on it. I figure after 33 years that
I'll just replace it before I connect a radio.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 08:53:49 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '59 Overlander
Carl, It sounds as if you are dealing with an original toilet. They do not
work the same as the modern ones. My memory is hazy, but I believe that
there is a turn knob by the toilet to supply it with a great deal of water
to flush, or a spray handle. I remember just using the spray handle to
supply water to the bowl.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl White
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 3:35 PM
Subject: [VAC] '59 Overlander
Toilet problem: When I open the in line valve to the water supply, the
water runs constantly. I thought it should be controled by the step valve
and cut off when released. Is this instead a manually controled flush
system where I open and close the in line cut off to flush?
Thanks,
Carl
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 09:14:14 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Which Break Controller (maybe a Tekonsha?)
Jack,
Any brake controller that you can presently purchase at Camping World will
do the job for you. They work fine and are of decent quality.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Honeycutt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 9:25 PM
Subject: [VAC] Which Break Controller (maybe a Tekonsha?)
SNIP----
> While at Camping World, I looked at three break controllers made by
> Tekonsha. I don't know the first thing about break controllers and I don't
> want to buy the first one I pick up with out knowing anything.
>
> Can anyone recommend a brand or model number to me? Is the Tekonsha as
> good a unit as most? Any brands better than others? I would rather spend
a
> little more money and get a good brand then save some money and buy a low
> end unit.
SNIP
>
> jack in Portland Oregon
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 09:52:55 -0700
From: Blair Prestin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Filtered 12 volts???
Chris - Thanks for the info. I'm curiopus why is it bad to run a univolt
without a battery?
So far mine has been working for in 12 months without a battery. I don't
boon dock, so never had a need for a battery. Am I doing something wrong
not using a battery?
Blair
At 04:00 PM 10/13/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>At 11:51 PM 10/12/01 -0400, Blair Prestin wrote:
> >OK all you 12 volt hi techies. I have a univolt question.
> >
> >I'm installing a new American Standard RV super high recovery
> >6 gallon gas, electric, direct spark ignition water heater
> >in my 64 Tradewind..
> >
> >The 120v part is straight forward.
> >
> >The 12 volt part in the book says " connect to the battery
> >directly or to "filtered" 12VDC from the converter."
> >
> >My question is - Is the 12 volts from the univolt
> >(which runs super quiet and dependably)
> >filtered? If not can it be and what needs to be done?
>
> As long as you have a battery installed, you will be fine- the
> battery filters the 12 volt power. Running a Univolt without a battery is
> a bad idea in any case.
>
>
>
>________
>
> Chris Bryant
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
Need answers to a Personal or Business Legal question?
Visit the most Comprehensive and Free Legal Resource Center
on the Internet for both Business and Personal Legal concerns.
Just click here: www.prepaidlegal.com/info/blair
PPL Membership Overview 212.796.7262
Blair Prestin
2659 Ramada Road
Burlington, NC 27215
336-227-9000
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:55:28 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: A/S and Internet
What would be involved in getting a 70's Safari set up to access the Internet
away from home? I have an iMac with built-in modem which I plan to take when
I camp somewhere in FL this winter. Since my mechanical ability tests out at
10%, I need a kindergarten explanation of what is needed.
Thanks,
Friend of VAC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 11:55:13 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Fw: [A/S] 1958 20' Airstream
Calling all ' 50s era Airstream experts ...
A four day owner of a ' 58 Airstream, Dianne Hanson, is interested in
finding out some information about the new acquisition. I'm sure there are
some knowledgeable folks on here who can answer the question(s).
Thanks for the help.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dianne Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 11:25
Subject: Re: [A/S] 1958 20' Airstream
> I found out something interesting this morning. I
> called the outlet listed by Airstream.com for an
> owner's manual for the trailer. I find that they only
> have manuals on hand back to '64. One of the things
> I'm interested in in the short term is the model name
> of this unit. Do you have any suggestions as to where
> that might be found. I'm finding this a fascinating
> experience and I'm only four days into my
> 'Airstream-ness'!! I've been an avid camper/rver for
> some time now - but there is an entirely new element
> in this! Thanks for your help. By the way, I live in
> Great Falls, Montana. Dianne.
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:16:23 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: A/S and Internet
My neighbor found a CD-ROM at Staples that gives 900 minutes of
nationwide access for about $10. He runs his iMac in PC emulation mode
to use it. He then connects to his ISP who has a way to access his
e-mail so he gets and receives e-mail at his home e-mail address. The
e-mail scheme doesn't erase e-mail so he can have it all when he gets
home (unless he instructs it to erase some of the e-mail). His SOB fifth
wheel has wiring for phone, though often he has to carry the computer to
the campground office to use the phone line.
Of course, AOL has phone numbers most anywhere so should work for
without any added software. You may need to contact AOL for a recent
listing of those numbers.
There are compact computerish devices that do e-mail for less money than
the iMac.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:50:00 -0600
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fw: [A/S] 1958 20' Airstream
Let me know of anything I can help with...
Ken Johansen
59 Traveler (18')
At 11:55 AM 10/15/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Calling all ' 50s era Airstream experts ...
>
>A four day owner of a ' 58 Airstream, Dianne Hanson, is interested in
>finding out some information about the new acquisition. I'm sure there are
>some knowledgeable folks on here who can answer the question(s).
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>Jim Greene
>' 68 Tradewind
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dianne Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 11:25
>Subject: Re: [A/S] 1958 20' Airstream
>
>
>> I found out something interesting this morning. I
>> called the outlet listed by Airstream.com for an
>> owner's manual for the trailer. I find that they only
>> have manuals on hand back to '64. One of the things
>> I'm interested in in the short term is the model name
>> of this unit. Do you have any suggestions as to where
>> that might be found. I'm finding this a fascinating
>> experience and I'm only four days into my
>> 'Airstream-ness'!! I've been an avid camper/rver for
>> some time now - but there is an entirely new element
>> in this! Thanks for your help. By the way, I live in
>> Great Falls, Montana. Dianne.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:36:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: jerry catlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
Thanks for all the suggestions. After some more
rummaging around this weekend, I discovered a rogue
shutoff valve located inside the trailer underneath
the closet by the water heater. I mistakenly assumed
that the valve would be underneath the trailer or that
it was accessed from the outside. I think someone got
ahold of the original lines and had made some
modifications.
Anyways, the good news is that the pilot lights, and
seems to stay lit. I was re-reading the part in the
owner's manual that states make sure the tank is full
of water and that all the air is bled from the lines.
When I went to go check, the pilot was still lit, but
there was a small leak where the line exits the
temperature contol box that had also become lit. I
shut the whole operation down real quick as that
didn't seem quite right.
My continuing questions are...
What's a fella to do about a gas leak near the control
box?
If I fill my water tank up and run the pump for a bit,
does my water heater automatically get filled? I was
unsure of how much water was in the hot water heater
if any at all.
Thanks for your advice and your patience.
Still learning,
Jerry
--- Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jerry,
> As your range top works, we can safely assume that
> we do have a gas
> supply. :-)
>
> If you can't seen any shutoffs, it's possible that
> there ARE none. I've
> heard of spiders getting into gas lines and building
> nests, but have
> never personally experienced it. If it were mine, my
> next step would
> probably be to disconnect the gas lines at all
> appliances and the
> regulator, then get out the ol' blowgun and 100 PSI
> air to see what is
> plugged, and where.
>
> Note that it would be a distinctly bad idea to
> subject those appliances
> to 100 PSI, when they're only supposed to see 11"WC
> of pressure. The
> lines themselves will stand that pressure with no
> problem.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
> jerry catlin wrote:
> >
> > Jim
> > I finally got a chance to start poking around
> under my
> > trailer, and I didn't see a shutoff valve for the
> > water heater (or any other appliance for that
> matter).
> > I took your advice and loosened the connection to
> > check if gas was making it to the furnance, and I
> did
> > not smell any gas escaping. The gas line for the
> > range top is right next to the gas line for the
> water
> > heater, and the range top works fine.
> >
> > I'm baffled why gas doesn't seem to be making it
> to
> > the water heater. There is a bunch of insulation
> > stuffed around the heater, so I can't follow the
> gas
> > line all the way in from under the trailer to
> where
> > the temperature control is. Is it possible that a
> > shutoff valve would be located in the water heater
> > compartment and not underneath the trailer?
> >
> > Very weird.
> >
> > Jerry
> > --- Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > Jerry,
> > > Look underneath your trailer and you'll see the
> gas
> > > lines. If there's a
> > > shutoff valve, it'll be quite near the water
> heater.
> > > Most gas shutoff
> > > cocks have a handle that must be in line with
> the
> > > tubing to be 'open',
> > > if it's cross-ways, it's 'off'. There may or may
> not
> > > be stops to prevent
> > > its being moved too far, so you may have to look
> at
> > > it to be certain
> > > that it's where you want it.
> > >
> > > I'm assuming that you're holding the Red button
> in,
> > > twisting the knob to
> > > "Pilot" against the spring, or whatever you have
> to
> > > do to bypass the
> > > safety stuff during lighting...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> --
>
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
>
> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> <<lower SE Michigan,
> USA>>
>
> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:36:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: jerry catlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
Thanks for all the suggestions. After some more
rummaging around this weekend, I discovered a rogue
shutoff valve located inside the trailer underneath
the closet by the water heater. I mistakenly assumed
that the valve would be underneath the trailer or that
it was accessed from the outside. I think someone got
ahold of the original lines and had made some
modifications.
Anyways, the good news is that the pilot lights, and
seems to stay lit. I was re-reading the part in the
owner's manual that states make sure the tank is full
of water and that all the air is bled from the lines.
When I went to go check, the pilot was still lit, but
there was a small leak where the line exits the
temperature contol box that had also become lit. I
shut the whole operation down real quick as that
didn't seem quite right.
My continuing questions are...
What's a fella to do about a gas leak near the control
box?
If I fill my water tank up and run the pump for a bit,
does my water heater automatically get filled? I was
unsure of how much water was in the hot water heater
if any at all.
Thanks for your advice and your patience.
Still learning,
Jerry
--- Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jerry,
> As your range top works, we can safely assume that
> we do have a gas
> supply. :-)
>
> If you can't seen any shutoffs, it's possible that
> there ARE none. I've
> heard of spiders getting into gas lines and building
> nests, but have
> never personally experienced it. If it were mine, my
> next step would
> probably be to disconnect the gas lines at all
> appliances and the
> regulator, then get out the ol' blowgun and 100 PSI
> air to see what is
> plugged, and where.
>
> Note that it would be a distinctly bad idea to
> subject those appliances
> to 100 PSI, when they're only supposed to see 11"WC
> of pressure. The
> lines themselves will stand that pressure with no
> problem.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
> jerry catlin wrote:
> >
> > Jim
> > I finally got a chance to start poking around
> under my
> > trailer, and I didn't see a shutoff valve for the
> > water heater (or any other appliance for that
> matter).
> > I took your advice and loosened the connection to
> > check if gas was making it to the furnance, and I
> did
> > not smell any gas escaping. The gas line for the
> > range top is right next to the gas line for the
> water
> > heater, and the range top works fine.
> >
> > I'm baffled why gas doesn't seem to be making it
> to
> > the water heater. There is a bunch of insulation
> > stuffed around the heater, so I can't follow the
> gas
> > line all the way in from under the trailer to
> where
> > the temperature control is. Is it possible that a
> > shutoff valve would be located in the water heater
> > compartment and not underneath the trailer?
> >
> > Very weird.
> >
> > Jerry
> > --- Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > Jerry,
> > > Look underneath your trailer and you'll see the
> gas
> > > lines. If there's a
> > > shutoff valve, it'll be quite near the water
> heater.
> > > Most gas shutoff
> > > cocks have a handle that must be in line with
> the
> > > tubing to be 'open',
> > > if it's cross-ways, it's 'off'. There may or may
> not
> > > be stops to prevent
> > > its being moved too far, so you may have to look
> at
> > > it to be certain
> > > that it's where you want it.
> > >
> > > I'm assuming that you're holding the Red button
> in,
> > > twisting the knob to
> > > "Pilot" against the spring, or whatever you have
> to
> > > do to bypass the
> > > safety stuff during lighting...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> --
>
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
>
> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> <<lower SE Michigan,
> USA>>
>
> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 11:55:10 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
The hot water tank is full when only water with no air runs from a hot
water faucet.
That gas plumbing leak is not good. Probably comes from the pipe
threaded fitting vibrating loose, and maybe wearing the threads. Gas
rated pipe dope applied to the threads with the fitting removed, then
the fitting reinstalled may cure the leak. Check the WHOLE gas system
for leaks with soapy water. And tighten or replace any part that
bubbles. Gas leaks can lead to fires and explosions and human flesh
doesn't take well to being toasted by those fires.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 19:07:39 +0100
From: Nicholas Froome <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Truck Stops and Tow Cars
All these discussions of Truck Stops and Tow Cars point up how different it is here in
the UK. It's a long-term project of mine to have an Airstream, and I've received
useful help from a number of people both on and off this list
Apart from the obvious 110 vs 240 Volt power issue - and the fact that we drive on the
left - it seems there are lots of issues about using an Airstream over here
Nose weight is one, and sheer size is another. Over here a Land Rover Discovery is a
BIG vehicle. Although dismissed (undoubtedly accurately) by list members for towing a
big AS, you have to go long way to find a bigger tow vehicle in the UK. Some of the
All petrol stations carry diesel, and most pumps supply two grades of Unleaded and
diesel, and something like 25% (and growing) of all new cars are diesels. Leaded
petrol finally disappeared last year and is now only found in a couple of hundred
garages a
Some stations carry LRP (Lead Replacement Petrol) which, in true British style, is not
manufactured to a standard and will contain one of a number of additives. You're
recommended to stick to one additive or another, but most garages don't know what's in
Despite this, and despite petrol and diesel being nearly $6 a gallon, I'll still get
an Airstream one day...
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 11:11:58 -0700
From: "Brad Norgaard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fw: [A/S] 1958 20' Airstream
Hi Diane,
Welcome and congrats on your purchase. What is the serial number of your
unit? That should help with the ID. I'll provide what info I can.
Brad N.
'59 Trade Wind
Phoenix
on 10/15/01 8:55 AM, James Greene at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Calling all ' 50s era Airstream experts ...
>
> A four day owner of a ' 58 Airstream, Dianne Hanson, is interested in
> finding out some information about the new acquisition. I'm sure there are
> some knowledgeable folks on here who can answer the question(s).
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dianne Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 11:25
> Subject: Re: [A/S] 1958 20' Airstream
>
>
>> I found out something interesting this morning. I
>> called the outlet listed by Airstream.com for an
>> owner's manual for the trailer. I find that they only
>> have manuals on hand back to '64. One of the things
>> I'm interested in in the short term is the model name
>> of this unit. Do you have any suggestions as to where
>> that might be found. I'm finding this a fascinating
>> experience and I'm only four days into my
>> 'Airstream-ness'!! I've been an avid camper/rver for
>> some time now - but there is an entirely new element
>> in this! Thanks for your help. By the way, I live in
>> Great Falls, Montana. Dianne.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 14:21:46 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
--part1_139.317fd84.28fc833a_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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I have personally had numerous problems with spider webs in the hot water
heater regulator area. One time, I had a difficult time of lighting the
pilot and when it finally lit and began to heat the water, the second spider
web had blocked the vent causing the flame the kick back towards the
regulator. I was unaware that the flame had blown back until while back
inside the trailer I smelled burning insulation. As a result, the aluminum
around the water heater of that (my first Airstream) trailer was damaged, all
the plastic parts melted and the foam insulation dripped onto the water
heater controls.
Because spider webs in the water heater area has been such a common (and
dangerous!) occurrence for me, I use a soft, long handled brush to clean the
parts before lighting the pilot after an extended period of nonuse. I also
tie a soft rag to the end of a hanger wire and run it up through the flame
vent.
Charles L.
Central Ohio
1974 27' Overlander International
WBCCI 3048 VAC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.aol.com/snowabode/airstream.jpg
--part1_139.317fd84.28fc833a_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2> I have personally had numerous
problems with spider webs in the hot water heater regulator area. One time, I
had a difficult time of lighting the pilot and when it finally lit and began to heat
the wa<BR> Because spider webs in the water heater area has been such a common
(and dangerous!) occurrence for me, I use a soft, long handled brush to clean the
parts before lighting the pilot after an extended period of nonuse. I also tie a
soft ra<BR>
<BR>Charles L.
<BR>Central Ohio
<BR>1974 27' Overlander International
<BR>WBCCI 3048 VAC
<BR>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
<BR>http://members.aol.com/snowabode/airstream.jpg</FONT></HTML>
--part1_139.317fd84.28fc833a_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:36:02 -0500
From: jim clark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
At 10:36 AM 10/15/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>My continuing questions are...
>
>What's a fella to do about a gas leak near the control
>box?
>If I fill my water tank up and run the pump for a bit,
>does my water heater automatically get filled? I was
>unsure of how much water was in the hot water heater
>if any at all.
>
>Thanks for your advice and your patience.
>
>Still learning,
>Jerry
>
>-
Jerry:
Do what ever you have to do to shut off the gas leak... either tighten or
replace what ever is leaking....as far as filling the hot water tank... run
the pump while opening a hot water faucet ... when you get water at the
faucet, you can assume the tank is full or close to it....if you are hooked
up to site water, just open a hot water faucet and bleed any air out of the
pipes/tank....
Get the gas portion fixed before using the heater....
Jim
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 16:02:41 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
To fill the hot water tank, hook the trailer up to "city" water, open a hot
water tap or two and let them run for a minute or two. Any excess air in the
tank will make its way through the plumbing and out the tap, just remember
that there may still be some water in the lines between the hot water tank
and the tap-so give it a chance to run through. (or if your fresh water tank
is full you can just run the pump instead of hooking it up to "city" water.)
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry catlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 1:36 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
SNIP---
> If I fill my water tank up and run the pump for a bit,
> does my water heater automatically get filled? I was
> unsure of how much water was in the hot water heater
> if any at all.
>
> Thanks for your advice and your patience.
>
> Still learning,
> Jerry
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 14:47:14 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: A/S and Internet
> His SOB fifth
> wheel has wiring for phone, though often he has to carry the computer to
> the campground office to use the phone line.
Hi all:
The last time I was out with my trailer I went armed with my laptop. I
subscribe to Earthlink and they have local dial-up numbers in many places, a
lot like AOL, I'm sure.
To make a long story less so, I couldn't get anyone to let me plug in my
computer even though I assured them that the number I wanted to dial was
LOCAL , it would only take a minute or two, and I would not be tying up the
phone. No dice. Finally, I went to the local library to see if they would
let me connect where their FAX machine was or whatever. They too declined
to let use their phones.
However, the good news was that the library had several computers of their
own, hooked up to the internet and had no problem with my using them. After
all, that's what they were there for (!).
So instead of going through my ISP with MY computer, I used theirs, going
through http://www.mail2web.com - collecting several days worth of messages,
which as many of you can appreciate, was well over a hundred.
I have used mail2web occasionally for several years and am very happy with
it. Every bit as secure as my ISP and no spam or anything. As a matter of
fact, when I thought I was having mail trouble with Earthlink, the techie
told me to open mail2web and check whether Earthlink was working properly or
not. Check it out.
And, if all else fails, try the library.
GQ '67 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 18:32:16 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trouble lighting water heater pilot
Jerry,
Open your hot water faucets one at a time until all air is bled out and
water flows freely; the heater's tank is now full. You can then turn the
control to "ON" and the main flame will light and operate until the
water tank is hot, that'll take maybe 30 minutes or so. The water should
start running 'warm' at the faucets within 5 or 10 minutes.
You should be able to tighten that line at the control valve to stop the
leak. It's easy to check for gas leaks with some soapy water.
<<Jim>>
jerry catlin wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the suggestions. After some more
> rummaging around this weekend, I discovered a rogue
> shutoff valve located inside the trailer underneath
> the closet by the water heater. I mistakenly assumed
> that the valve would be underneath the trailer or that
> it was accessed from the outside. I think someone got
> ahold of the original lines and had made some
> modifications.
>
> Anyways, the good news is that the pilot lights, and
> seems to stay lit. I was re-reading the part in the
> owner's manual that states make sure the tank is full
> of water and that all the air is bled from the lines.
> When I went to go check, the pilot was still lit, but
> there was a small leak where the line exits the
> temperature contol box that had also become lit. I
> shut the whole operation down real quick as that
> didn't seem quite right.
>
> My continuing questions are...
>
> What's a fella to do about a gas leak near the control
> box?
> If I fill my water tank up and run the pump for a bit,
> does my water heater automatically get filled? I was
> unsure of how much water was in the hot water heater
> if any at all.
>
> Thanks for your advice and your patience.
>
> Still learning,
> Jerry
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 16:18:46 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Intelipower Question
Isn't "60 cycle hum" a product of AC? And the InteliPower only puts out DC,
right? Try an AM radio somewhere other than the trailer to see if you get
the same results. Might be an outside noise problem, most likely from a
neighbor of faulty power pole.
Roger Hightower
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #93
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