Re: [VFB] Rod building question

[mark romero]

Isn't IMX an older modulas than GLX? Or is IMX something new? I know one 
thing GLX is very stiff and very fast. Maybe GLX is simply a model name? I 
think IMX does diliniate a modulas but i'm not sure how many million? I have 
one GLX and it is a very fine rod. Can anayone clear this all up for me? 
Seems that with the high numbers (modulas) you are referring to, that the 
difference between single ft. guides and snake guides wouldn't really matter 
that much. At least not in the hands of a good caster anayway. Remember, 
"the cymbal don't make the drummer, the drummer makes the cymbal."  Just a 
carry over from my former life. I love single ft. guides, less area for the 
line to bounce off of, or rattle around. Also they weigh less, and if your 
putting one for every ft. of rod length, (which you should), it matters. I 
don't build rods, but i study everything. Hope it was some help. mark


From: Martin Westbeek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VFB] Rod building question
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2003 22:51:39 +0200
Rix,
This G.Loomis IMX is the rod I'm building right now, and it's very fast 
indeed. Mike, a friend who teaches me to build it, and I talked about 
single-foot vs traditional snakes. Like you, he says that traditional 
snakes will result in increased stiffnes. But on a rod building site I read 
the opposite: there they said that double-footers are heavier, and will 
soften the blank. According to them the extra weight influences the action 
more than the larger rigid spots between the double-footers.
I wonder who's right...
Martin

Rix Benson wrote:

Another thing you can do, Rene, is make sure that you
use double-foot snake guides, instead of the single
foot variety.  Like everyone else has said, this won't
make much of a difference, but it will stiffen up the
action of the rod a bit.
Also, something that we've all touched on but no-one
has really mentioned outright...all of these
suggestions (with the exception of actually cutting
the blank) will result in varying degrees of added
weight to the finished product.  Aside from making the
darn thing heavy and difficult to cast, too much
weight towards the tip can change the balance point of
the rod and may well throw the action WAY off-kilter
if you're not careful.
In short, I agree with everyone else...buy the
stiffest blank you can find.  A G. Loomis IMX (Slate)
blank comes immediately to mind...
Just my humble 2 cents...
Rix
--- Rene Zillmann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


List and rod-builders,

question sounds crazy but let's see what it steeres
up.
You know, I'm in the process of building a new rod.
I've already the blank.
I want to build the rod as stiff as possible. Is
there a dependency between the positioning and the number of guides to
the stiffness of the finished rod? Or depends the stiffness of the rod
from the blank only?
I can imagine that the distance between the guides
would modify the finished rod's action a bit. Any knowledge ot there
about this?
BTW: The Rhines level is rising slowly. Hope I can
return to fishing the Rhine in some weeks!
Rene
in Germany




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