Apply a thin light coat, as it is turning hold a hair dryer about 12" from the rod and turn it on. As the epoxy thins you have to watch that you don't blow it off the rod. It takes a bit of tact.
Have the hair dryer blowing from below as not to blow dust off the table on to the rod.
The epoxy will thin out and flow a lot better.
I also do this on the wraps. Smoothes them out real nice. Do about three wraps and us the hairdryer, then about three more and do the same. It is also a way to get rid of those nasty little air bubbles.
While we are on the subject of wraps, to get a nice smooth finish, apply a coat of (wrap) epoxy on the wraps. Do about four or five wraps and wipe off the epoxy, I use bounty paper towels. This makes the epoxy soak into the thread and smoothes the fuzzies. It also levels up the wrap. Let it turn for several hours and then apply the final coat of epoxy. Use the hair dryer as above.
Tony
Tom Davenport wrote:
My rod building marathon has helped me do a better, faster, job, but there is one problem I haven't been able to solve: It is the long, thin coat of epoxy used to cover the logo/rod information and builder signature. I haven't been able to get it to look like it typically looks on commercial rods. It doesn't look terrible (someone less critical might not notice), but when looked at from the side it is obvious that the thickness varies in places. I have assumed that the rotating rod would smooth it out perfectly during curing, but it is has never been perfectly smooth. Might it have something to do with the thickness of the epoxy? Do I need to thin it a bit when doing this part of the rod? And if so, what should I use for a thinner?
Thanks, Tom Davenport
