I've also found that when you cover a large area, you need to level the coating as best you can. Rotating helps, you have to get the epoxy as smooth as possible. I move my brush back and forth lightly trying tio get the coating as even as possible. dan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2004 10:34 AM Subject: Re: [VFB] Another rod building question
> Dan, > Glad you mentioned that. It is real important that the gloss is removed. > Tony > > Dan wrote: > > >Did you take the gloss of the blank in that spot, I found that a light rub > >with fine steel wool before signing and coating take helps. Dan Gober > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Tom Davenport" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 12:25 PM > >Subject: [VFB] Another rod building question > > > > > > > > > >>My rod building marathon has helped me do a better, faster, job, but > >>there is one problem I haven't been able to solve: It is the long, > >>thin coat of epoxy used to cover the logo/rod information and builder > >>signature. I haven't been able to get it to look like it typically > >>looks on commercial rods. It doesn't look terrible (someone less > >>critical might not notice), but when looked at from the side it is > >>obvious that the thickness varies in places. I have assumed that the > >>rotating rod would smooth it out perfectly during curing, but it is has > >>never been perfectly smooth. Might it have something to do with the > >>thickness of the epoxy? Do I need to thin it a bit when doing this > >>part of the rod? And if so, what should I use for a thinner? > >> > >>Thanks, Tom Davenport > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > >
