It seems to me that 300 F is a tad low for any tin-lead alloy... 300 C would certainly work, but you might find it's a bit hot for you (if you don't work very quickly you may end up with an issue with de-lamination (of the PCB laminate layers and the traces from the board) due to over curing of the epoxy). If memory serves 63/37 "eutectic" solder melts around 360 F... I don't remember the exact temperature anymore though I am sure I could always look it up. Be certain to use a good quality solder (ideally 63/37) with a non-acidic rosin flux.
There are two fundamental schools of thought on soldering iron temperature: Low temperature with a (relatively) long working time or high temperature with a (relatively) short working time. I am a fan of the latter, but either method is completely acceptable. In addition to temperature, there is another important factor to keep in mind - Pressure. Under no circumstances do you want to press down on a pad whether you are using "low" or "high" temperature. If you are having a problem with getting solder to flow the solution is to simply add some liquid flux (again non-acidic)... Sometimes the addition of a bit of fresh solder helps too. Of course it is also important your iron is clean and properly tinned. I entirely missed out on the discussion which went on as I was on vacation, but my personal preference is Pace equipment. The exact system I have is here : http://www.paceworldwide.com/products/conductive-rework-systems/mbt-350/mbt-350-with-ps90-mt100-and-sx100 It is a very nice system, but based on the discussions, I think most people would balk at the price. The entire capacitor discussion leaves me a bit baffled... My reading is that some people are concerned about using tantalum and ceramic capacitors... Do they prefer aluminum electrolytic caps? Designers use aluminum electrolytic caps for all of 2 reasons; Price and Capacitance. I can really think of no other reason (at least those were the only reasons I ever designed one into a circuit - and usually just a few in the power supply). They are (comparatively) poor in just about every spec, but they are (again comparatively) inexpensive. Ceramic caps are quite good, but it is difficult to get a large amount of capacitance in a small space. Solid tantalum caps are great replacements in almost every situation where you would want to use an electrolytic. One big difference in usage between electrolytic and tantalum capacitors is that you want to run an electrolytic capacitor near it's rated voltage all the time, but you want to keep a tantalum as far away from it's rated voltage as your design (and budget) allows. I understand wanting to keep equipment as close to original as possible, but if you are not a purist, I would certainly recommend tantalum caps when replacing the electrolytic caps. I buy and use surface mount tantalums which fit the original pads of the surface mount cans and then use a drop of epoxy to secure them when I am done. Unlike using leaded caps, the result is so clean you cannot easily tell it is not original (unless you know there are supposed to be cans of course). Derek P.S. Please remember to remove the extra "You received this message because..." Footer from replies. We all forget from time to time, but when a discussion becomes this long it can start to take over the message. On Aug 1, 2013, at 4:34 PM, Gaetano wrote: > Hi, > finally I could find some time to order the SMD caps and clear the workbench > :-) > one more technical question: which is a good temperature for the soldering > iron to work on these components? I am currently using 300°, do you think it > is ok? > > Thanks again > Gaetano > > On Jul 29, 2013, at 20:03, Hardware Mack <[email protected]> wrote: > >> that is a good question, you might need to get out your caliper and take >> some measurements. >> i remember those caps were small. >> >> >> >> >> On Sun, Jul 28, 2013 at 5:06 PM, Gaetano <[email protected]> wrote: >> I remember you mentioned the Panasonic caps in one of your emails :-) >> Do you think the size and the package of the caps I choose is correct to >> replace the ones on the Pb 100 board? >> >> On Jul 28, 2013, at 20:25, Hardware Mack <[email protected]> wrote: >> >>> I agree panasonic caps are pretty darn good. When i don't use ceramic or >>> tantalum, panasonic make a well made oem stock replacment. >>> >>> On Jul 28, 2013, at 2:08 PM, Gaetano wrote: >>> >>>> Hi, >>>> I am about to order the capacitors on RS, may I kindly ask you to check >>>> what I plan to buy and see if they are the suitable ones? I have doubts >>>> about the case :-) >>>> >>>> 47uF 16V >>>> http://it.rs-online.com/web/p/condensatori-elettrolitici/5369871/ >>>> >>>> 1uF 50V >>>> http://it.rs-online.com/web/p/condensatori-elettrolitici/0569146/ >>>> >>>> 10uF 16V >>>> http://it.rs-online.com/web/p/condensatori-elettrolitici/7083399/ >>>> >>>> 4.7uF 50V >>>> http://it.rs-online.com/web/p/condensatori-elettrolitici/5370837/ >>>> >>>> Thanks once again! >>>> Gaetano >>>> >>>> On Jul 28, 2013, at 19:42, Gaetano <[email protected]> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Here is the update >>>>> >>>>> Place >>>>> Value >>>>> SMD >>>>> C6 >>>>> 47 16V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C12 >>>>> 1 50V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C11 >>>>> 1 50V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C13 >>>>> 10 16V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C20 >>>>> 10 16V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C21 >>>>> 47 16V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C22 >>>>> 47 uF 35V >>>>> FALSE >>>>> C23 >>>>> 330uF 16V >>>>> FALSE >>>>> C24 >>>>> 47 16V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C25 >>>>> 1 50V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C26 >>>>> 1 50V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C27 >>>>> 47 16V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C30 >>>>> 100uF 10V >>>>> FALSE >>>>> C32 >>>>> 220 uF 25V >>>>> FALSE >>>>> C34 >>>>> 47 16V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C37 >>>>> 100uF 10V >>>>> FALSE >>>>> C38 >>>>> 100uF 10V >>>>> FALSE >>>>> C39 >>>>> 4.7 50V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C42 >>>>> 10 16V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C43 >>>>> 1 50V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C102 >>>>> 10 16V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C104 >>>>> 10 16V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> C310 >>>>> 10 16V >>>>> TRUE >>>>> >>>>> Actually I am not 100% sure of some of the non-SMD because I had poor >>>>> light conditions and couldn't see them very well, any confirmation is the >>>>> very welcome. >>>>> >>>>> G >>>>> >>>>> On Jul 28, 2013, at 19:25, Hardware Mack <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> sure feel free to update your table. >>>>>> >>>>>> On Jul 28, 2013, at 11:40 AM, gaetano314 wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Thanks! >>>>>>> Actually I think that I should add one more information to the table >>>>>>> that is whether the cap is SMD or not, I realised that some of them are >>>>>>> not SMD. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Il giorno domenica 28 luglio 2013 08:21:37 UTC+2, Notgoing Totellyou ha >>>>>>> scritto: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> good job! >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Jul 27, 2013, at 10:59 AM, Gaetano wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Hi all, >>>>>>>> I am just back from few days of crazy work and had a little time to >>>>>>>> check the capacitors on the motherboard and on the CPU daughterboard >>>>>>>> of the Powerbook 100 and make a little list. >>>>>>>> Please note that I report here what found on the label. For C22 I have >>>>>>>> a little doubt about the value, I couldn't see it very well >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Place >>>>>>>> Value >>>>>>>> C6 >>>>>>>> 47 16V >>>>>>>> C12 >>>>>>>> 1 50V >>>>>>>> C11 >>>>>>>> 1 50V >>>>>>>> C13 >>>>>>>> 10 16V >>>>>>>> C20 >>>>>>>> 10 16V >>>>>>>> C21 >>>>>>>> 47 16V >>>>>>>> C22 >>>>>>>> 47 uF 35V >>>>>>>> C23 >>>>>>>> 330uF 16V >>>>>>>> C24 >>>>>>>> 47 16V >>>>>>>> C25 >>>>>>>> 1 50V >>>>>>>> C26 >>>>>>>> 1 50V >>>>>>>> C27 >>>>>>>> 47 16V >>>>>>>> C30 >>>>>>>> 100uF 10V >>>>>>>> C32 >>>>>>>> 220 uF 25V >>>>>>>> C34 >>>>>>>> 47 16V >>>>>>>> C37 >>>>>>>> 100uF 10V >>>>>>>> C38 >>>>>>>> 100uF 10V >>>>>>>> C39 >>>>>>>> 4.7 50V >>>>>>>> C42 >>>>>>>> 10 16V >>>>>>>> C43 >>>>>>>> 1 50V >>>>>>>> C102 >>>>>>>> 10 16V >>>>>>>> C104 >>>>>>>> 10 16V >>>>>>>> C310 >>>>>>>> 10 16V >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Maybe this can be useful for anybody with the same machine and also to >>>>>>>> double chac with somebody else. Does it match yours? >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Have a lot of fun >>>>>>>> Gaetano >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Jul 25, 2013, at 17:13, Hardware Mack <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Sure you care... >>>>>>>>> You are trying to appear right. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> I am saying relax, >>>>>>>>> they work fantastic, and will never leak. >>>>>>>>> and in the values needed are even pennies cheaper then your leaky can >>>>>>>>> caps. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> For someone as your self with such concern, maybe you could look into >>>>>>>>> organic polymer based caps. >>>>>>>>> Then even NASA would approve of your cap choice. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Jul 25, 2013, at 11:05 AM, Alexandre Souza wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> 1. These caps are not being used in a power supply. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> No, they are used in decoupling of a power supply. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> 2. The voltage these caps are receiving is half or less of the >>>>>>>>>>> rated capacity. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> So, per the article, you're derating them to 20-30% less >>>>>>>>>> capacitance. Not good. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> 3. This is a Powerbook from 1991 it's not a NASA satellite, will >>>>>>>>>>> never be exposed to temp ranges duscussed in >the articles, >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> We're not talking temperature here, but capacitance and the >>>>>>>>>> capability of them to decouple your power supply in a **very** >>>>>>>>>> sensible and complicated circuit. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> I'm not here to impose knowledge or opinions in anyone. I just >>>>>>>>>> present the facts, you believe in what you want, I just don't care. >>>>>>>>>> -- -- -- ----- You received this message because you are a member of the Vintage Macs group. 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