>From Tom Miller...Good luck Nick. How's everything around Langley these days?
> Enjoying retired AF life in Tennessee, Jeff Bateman.
1. First, to make the car lighter when you take the body off, remove as many
body panels, and interior items. Get off as much
as you can, this will make the car lighter to carry.
2. Check to see if the heater channels are rusted, if they are rusted bad you
will have to replace them before you take the body
off. If they are just rusted on the bottom, where the water collects, you can
put a brace on the channel. This will make it strong
enough to remove the body without having it flex and get out of alignment. Use
a screwdriver to poke through the carpet along
the channels to see if there is any rust.
3. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the driver front wheel and the
steering wheel from under the gas tank.
4. Now, get under the car. On each side of the car, by the running boards there
are 9 or so 13mm bolts, under the car. They
are about an inch or so from the running boards. They are in a recessed groove.
They are 13mm bolts with big rectangular
washers around them. Remove these from both sides of the car.
5. On the ends of these rows are a pair of 17 or 19mm bolts that are only about
an inch or so apart. There should be 8 of these
bolts. The rear ones are hidden behind the tire jack so you will have to jack
up the car and take the wheel off.
6. Remove the rear seat, there should be 4 or 6 13mm bolts with the rectangle
washers. You have to remove these too. They
are on the rear of the pan, kind of at an angle, angled towards the outside of
the car.
7. There is also a 19mm bolt that is in the rear fender. Jack up the rear of
the car so the tires hang low. You might as well get
the cheater pipe out right away for this one.
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 19:16:43 -0500> To:
> [email protected]> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Removing Body From Pan> >
> Thanks Bert, I'll look through my collection of VWT mags.> > Nick> VintagVW >
> http://homepage.mac.com/stokester/VintageVW/> Dub~Tunes >
> http://homepage.mac.com/stokester/dub_tunes> > > > On 20 Nov, 2007, at 01:07,
> Bert Knupp wrote:> > > Nick,> >> > There was an issue of the dear departed VW
> Trends in 2004 or 2005 that> > featured an illustrated how-to on body removal
> of a beetle.> >> > I have a stash of old VWTs resting in about three places.
> If your > > APB to> > the group doesn't turn up anything let me know and I'll
> do a hunt. > > The text> > and pictures together were real helpful to me.> >>
> > I know the real experts recommend spot-welding diagonal braces into > > the
> door> > openings before unbolting the body from the chassis. It makes the > >
> alignment> > of the doors a lot easier when putting it all back together. > >
> Happily, the> > paint shop where I had my '70 body done offered to reattach
> my body > > and> > chassis for no extra charge (!) and they seem to have done
> a good > > job. No> > alignment problems, anyhow. But I was lucky, I think.>
> >> > Bert Knupp> > Nashville, TN> >> > -----Original Message-----> > From:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Nicholas Stokes>
> > Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 6:46 PM> > To: Bug List> > Subject:
> [vintagvw] Removing Body From Pan> >> >> > As some of you know from my
> previous question, I'm going to swap the> > pan out of my '70 because of
> frame head corrosion.> >> > I did find a good '72 complete pan with front
> beam and transaxle, a> > full rolling pan for a song which I be picking up
> sometime next month.> >> > I know Marc told me about the seat track
> differences and I can take> > care of that but now I need to know where to
> start to remove the '70> > body from the old pan.> >> > What's the first
> step(s) to removing the good body?> >> > Anything to watch out for?> >> >
> Thanks,> >> > Nick Stokes> > Dub~Tunes radio page:
> http://homepage.mac.com/stokester/dub_tunes> >> >> >
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> >> >> > -- > > No virus found in this incoming message.> > Checked by AVG
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> Date: > > 11/16/2007> > 10:58 PM> >> >
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