I was thinking the same thing. Not being an electronics expert, I was
leaving this to others more knowledgeable than I.

In the past I have used a Chevrolet regulator on a 1959 Renault Dauphine
and a Ford regulator on a 1966 MGBGT. These were all generators, so I
have no idea if this translates to alternators.

Tom Potter

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Glen Hadley
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 5:34 AM
To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Fitting an Alternator in my 68 bug.

Actually, the external regulators are pretty 
generic.  Even one designed for some other vehicle 
should work if you can figure out the wiring. 
There's always a field wire, a sense wire, and one 
for a battery connection.  Most need to be 
grounded for the 'other' connection.  All the 
regulator does is control the field current to the 
alternator to hold voltage at the desired level. 
This is usually 13.8-14 volts.

HTH,

glenh  :<)

Mike wrote:
> Asad,
>   The voltage regulators you appear to be describing are mechanical
types 
> for generators.  You need an outboard, solid-state type regulator
matched 
> specifically to your particular model of alternator. As Marc said,
each 
> different alternator uses a specific regulator.  He failed to mention
the 
> fact that they are smaller, solid-state, potted units with a short, 
> multi-conductor harness with a plastic multi-pin connector.  That is
what 
> he was alluding to when he said that were wires coming out of the
regulator. 
> If you have an internally-regulated alternator, it'll have one large 
> threaded terminal that is B+ for your large red wire, one push-on
terminal 
> for your blue wire to your dash idiot light, and one threaded
screwhole for 
> your brown earth ground wire.  If your harness is bastardized, and the

> colors don't match original, trace them individually and mark the ends
with 
> tape that's the color of what they should be.  Your
externally-regulated 
> alternators are difficult or impossible to setup to work properly
without 
> the correctly matched regulator assembly (Bosch, Motorola, etc.).
>   The later 'current-track' wiring digrams don't show the wiring in
the 
> shape of the car (like the earlier drawings do), but the circuit is 
> represented the same, from positive source at the top to ground at the

> bottom.  Use all the markings, references, legends, colors, sizes,
etc. to 
> help you get a feel for tracing the circuit.  When a current track
ends in 
> the middle with number, refer to that current track number to see the 
> continuation of that particular circuit.  It's usually on a different
page, 
> and this can make it harder to trace. But, once you understand this,
and 
> begin working with it, it will get easier.
> Good luck, and hope this helps.
> 
> Mike B.


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