Great to see this sort of discussion going on- Thanks Bill and NQ. I never heard the grease theory.
Wonder how Asad is making out? Anyone know whatever happened to Kirin(spelling?) He had a seafoam green bug when he turned 16 on this list. Anyone hear from Jim Anderson or Marc Vellat? Ray -----Original Message----- From: Chuck Giannone <[email protected]> To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List <[email protected]> Sent: Sun, Jun 26, 2011 7:47 pm Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Tune up now won't start Bill, Erin Darn, you two have it nailed, thanks for getting me out of a jam. The reason I wanted to replace the fuel pump was because of vapor lock. I went to all the local parts houses and they all had the same generic pump, so I finally got my list together and ordered everything from MidAmerica. I did have the fuel hoses reversed. I did grease the indentations of the push rod according to the tech at Mid America, he did now know why, but said I should, thanks for the explanation Erin. Also, I had the plug wires off by one: #1 was where #4 should have been, etc, I fixed all that and she started right up and ran. Next on the list is valve adjusting, new belt and following the TDC instructions below, time the engine. Thanks for you help, she is my daily driver once again..... :) Chuck74 Standard Beetle1600DPGenerator Equipped. --- On Sun, 6/26/11, No Quarter <[email protected]> wrote: From: No Quarter <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Tune up now won't start To: "Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" <[email protected]> Date: Sunday, June 26, 2011, 8:45 AM Okay Chuck here are some things to check. Don't assume - just do the checks. Make sure you have fuel in the gas tank. Check that you didn't reverse the fuel lines to the pump. I believe the inlet is on top and the outlet on the bottom. I don't advise using the NAPA pumps because they vapour lock. The Brosol pumps have a bakelite piece in them that prevents the heat of the engine from migrating up to the fuel whereas the NAPA ones do not. Don't use them again. Also, a lot of people don't know this but those little hollow spots in pushrod guide are meant to have grease in them as they act as a heat soak. I was told this by a friend who read it in an original VW manual somewhere. I have to say since running Brosol pumps and greasing the pockets in the pushrod guide, I've never had a vapour lock since. The pushrods for generator style fuel pump pushrods is 107.5mm The alternator style is 99.5mm Your measurements seem off but it shouldn't make too much difference. If you are backfiring, you are out of time. That's a lesson I learned from my grandfather. Verify TDC on the #1 cylinder and then set your plugs and wires off of that. Sometimes the distributor will be 180 degrees off and you didn't know it. Verify TDC by taking off the valve cover on the right side of the engine and watch the valves as your wife spins the engine. If you are familiar with the cycles of the 4 stroke engine, you can nail TDC perfectly and then go from there. Occasionally I find a dizzy that is 180 degrees out because the drive gear was installed wrong. I just take of the drive dog on the dizzy and flip it 180 degrees and at least 2 wrongs make it right so the rotor points in the right direction. Give that a shot and get back to us. NQ _______________________________________________ vintagvw site list [email protected] http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw _______________________________________________ vintagvw site list [email protected] http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw _______________________________________________ vintagvw site list [email protected] http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
