When looking for donor parts, sticking with one from a similar displacement
engine is usually recommended because you'd expect the throttle butterfly
diameter to be properly metered.  Sharkey runs a TB from a 5.0 Mustang so
I'm nearly at maximum volumetric flow at around half throttle (if you *just*
look at the numbers -- it's actually closer to about 2/3 throttle).  I've
tailored my accelerator pedal movement so that approximately 1/2 pedal
movement equals about 1/3 butterfly movement, but I couldn't get it perfect
so I still have this feeling that the last bit of "oomph" on the pedal
doesn't really get me going any faster.  A TB from a 2.3L Ford might have
been better, but you also have to consider the shape and style of the TB.
The Mustang TB has an incorporated mounting point for a pulse-width
modulated IAC solenoid, which is a simpler way of controlling the air
bypassing the butterfly when idling.  Others use stepper motors, which are
more complicated to control and Megasquirt may or may not work with them (I
know this used to be an issue years ago with Megasquirt and some other
aftermarket engine management systems, but it may have changed since then --
long story short: if current Megasquirt systems cannot handle stepper motor
IACs, then you'll need donor parts from a system that uses a pulse-width
modulated IAC).  It's really nice to be able to get into a cold car with an
aftermarket EFI system, not touch the gas, crank the starter, and have the
engine rev up and sit at a preprogrammed RPM, knowing that it is *your*
programming -- working in conjunction with one or two sensors monitoring
engine temp -- that sets that RPM and slowly lowers it as the engine warms
up.

And if you're going with a custom TB set-up, you'll have to figure out how
to make the throttle cable work.  I ended up using a Morse cable, which is
the same type that rail owners run.  They have an outer sheath that can be
rigidly attached at each end (much like brake cables on a bicycle).

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