It seems like from the experiments I've run that if you want heat, put enough borax in so that it settles to the bottom. Then put your electrodes down into the borax powder in the bottom. Eventually, the borax powder disappears leaving yellowish nearly transparent crystals on the electrodes and in the bottom of the cell. It is easy to get 120+F temps with an air temperature of 60F using 12V @ 1amp.
On Wed, Oct 3, 2012 at 5:55 PM, Paul Stout <[email protected]> wrote: > My anode is a motor brush so its surface area is larger than that of the > nickel coin. > I have increased the current to 400 milliamps. With the active and > control beakers in series, the power supply is at 30 volts to drive that > current. > - > I was hoping to avoid the higher currents, which could mask any anomalous > heat being generated. > > Paul > > > > > On 10/3/2012 1:57 PM, Jack Cole wrote: > > I had a lot of heat, whether it is "anomalous" or not, I don't know. I > think it is somehow resistance heating through the borax or chemistry with > creating boric acid. Just a speculation. I had heat >130F (I say it this > way because my thermometer was electroplated or something causing it to > register 20F too high. It read 158 or so at the max). To get more heat, > you need an anode with as much surface area as your nickel. I used 12V at > 1 amp. > > On Wed, Oct 3, 2012 at 11:17 AM, Paul Stout <[email protected]> wrote: > >> I have increased the current in my setup to 200 milliamps. It has been >> running at that current level for more than 12 hours now and no anomalous >> heat has shown up yet. >> - >> Has anybody been able to replicate Chuck Sites results? I have not seen >> any claims to that yet. >> - >> Paul >> >> > >
