I don't know that Egyptians really have the concept of "vegetarian"
and especially "vegan" in the culture. That said, I don't think you
will have much of a problem here. A lot of the dishes available here
contain no meat. Koshari is vegetarian (though some macaroni/pasta
contains eggs). Tamiyya (falafel) is vegetarian and vegan. Other
vegetarian dishes (rice/vegetables/tomato-based sauce) are available
at places that serve Egyptian cuisine. There are also places that
specialize in Italian cuisine, Indian, and other types.
The one vegetarian restaurant that I know of in Cairo is L'Aubergine
in Zamalek (7 LE taxi ride from downtown Cairo). A good place for
Indian cuisine is called "Kandahar" in Mohandesseen (10 LE taxi ride
from downtown). Kandahar is a bit more expensive than other places in
Cairo, but you can order dishes to split among people which helps with
costs.
With most places you eat, the staff will know should understand
English just fine. Also, pretty much all places will have menus in
English, except some of the really cheap tamiyya places. Nonetheless,
it may help to know the word "nabatee" (vegetarian - male) or
"nabataya" (vegetarian - female). Or you can say "ana nabatee" (I am
vegetarian) or "ana nabataya", "mish akul lahm" (I don't eat meat)
"wa mish akul bayda" (and I don't eat eggs).
-Aude
On Tue, Jul 8, 2008 at 8:40 PM, Akash Shah <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
Hi Aude.
Thanks a lot for this mail. It will be extremely useful to anyone
traveling for Wikimania. I have one question - I am a vegetarian
(no meat, no fish, no eggs. Milk and milk products like curd,
cheese, cream are ok). Are there places in Cairo where I can get
vegetarian food? Which traditional food items of Egypt are vegetarian?
Regards,
Akash
On Tue, Jul 8, 2008 at 10:48 PM, Aude <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
I have been in Egypt for over a month now, living in Cairo, as
a student. Since arriving, I have traveled around the
country, including Sinai, Alexandria, and will be in Luxor
this weekend. With people arriving soon for Wikimania, I'd
like to take the opportunity to share advice and experiences
as a female.
Language -
English is widely spoken in Egypt, and you will get by just
fine if you don't know any words in Arabic. Though it's good
to know a few basics in Arabic: "shukran" - thank you; "aywa"
- yes; "la" - no; "la shukran" - no thanks; "kwayis" - okay,
good; "low samaht" - please, excuse me; "asif" - sorry (said
by a male)/"asifa" (said by female); "hina kwayis" - here is
good (useful in a taxi for saying where to stop); "mish fahim"
- I don't understand; "betikkallim ingleezee" - do you speak
English?
Arriving-
I found it unusual when arriving in Cairo, when we had to walk
down stairs (out of a jumbo-size Boeing 767) and onto the
tarmac. We road a shuttle bus from there to the airport
terminal. Go ahead and exchange some money in the airport -
best to do before going through customs. Getting through
customs and immigration was quick and easy for me, though I
obtained my visa in advance.
Safety -
* I feel extremely safe here -- safer than I do back in the
U.S. Crime is not much of a problem at all. Also, there is a
strong police presence everywhere. In Sinai and other places,
there are checkpoints on the highways. Most of the time, our
tour groups have been completely on our own, but we had police
accompany us a few times.
* There is some harassment on the streets, but it's mainly
words. Knowing a few things in Arabic helps (e.g. "la
shukran"). It helps to walk in groups, but I have walked
around my neighborhood and other places on my own without
problems.
* For the most part, Egyptians are very welcoming, especially
with tourism so important to the economy here. I even have
some friends here who are Jewish, who are getting along fine here.
Getting around -
* The biggest difference between the U.S. and Egypt (and
elsewhere in the Middle East) is that traffic lights are
pretty much lacking here. In a few spots, there are traffic
lights and/or police controlling traffic. To cross the
street, it's like playing the video game "Frogger", hurrying
across the street when there is a small break in traffic.
Also, when riding in a taxi, the taxi driver may go quite fast
and it takes getting use to the manner that they drive.
What to wear -
* I brought lightweight long/half-sleeve blouses, pants (linen
or other lightweight material), and long skirts. At the last
minute, I tossed a t-shirt in my luggage before I left the
US. I'm so very glad that I brought a t-shirt, and really
wish I brought more short sleeve tops. In the area of Cairo
where I live (Zamalek), as well as around the university and
many other areas, it is acceptable to wear short sleeves.
Same goes for Alexandria (Bibliotheca and other areas), which
is located along the waterfront.
* If you are going to see the pyramids in Giza or other such
sites, anything goes for clothing. It's not a problem to for
women to wear a tank top/or t-shirt and shorts. Such attire
was also absolute acceptable when I was in Sharm el-Sheikh (in
Sinai) and in similar locations.
* For all places, sandals are completely acceptable for
women. You will even see women covered in hijabs who are
wearing sandals.
Shopping -
* In Khan al-Khalili (Cairo) and other markets, the vendors
are aggressive in wanting you to come into their shop and
buy. As well, the crowds at the markets can be overwhelming.
* Bargaining - The prices that vendors tell you are way
overpriced and you need to bargain. For example, they may
want 50 LE (khamseen) for a scarf, but you can get it for 10
LE (ashrun) or not more than 20 LE (ashreen). To get out of
bargaining and move along, you can say "hagee tania" which
means "I'll come back another time". Pretty much all the
vendors will know some English, but a little bit of Arabic can
help.
* Khan al-Khalili is located in Islamic Cairo section of the
city, which is more conservative. It's good advice to dress
more conservatively when going shopping. To visit Al-Azhar
Mosque, women should also wear a scarf.
Despite having to put up with all this, it is definitely well
worth it to visit Khan al-Khalili or other such places for
shopping and souvenirs.
Taking a taxi -
* Prices - Taxi is a cheap and easy way to get around. It's
one flat price, no matter how many people are riding in the
taxi. There are no meters. You set the price, and it should
be fair for the driver. If you don't know what the fare
should be for a particular destination, then you should ask
someone (hotel concierge, staff at the dorms, at Bibliotheca,
etc.) what's a reasonable price. 5 LE is a fair price for a
ride from Bibliotheca to the downtown area in Alexandria,
since it's not far. I don't remember for sure exactly how far
the dorms are, but I think 5-6 LE is reasonable, since I don't
think the dorms are far. I paid 10-12 LE to get from BA to
the other end of the corniche in Alexandria.
* Getting a taxi - If you are going really far (e.g. downtown
Cairo to the Giza pyramids), then you should agree on a price
before getting in a taxi. For most places (medium and shorter
distances), do not discuss price before getting in. Just say
your destination and the driver should agree to take you. A
few times, before or once getting in, the driver has asked me
about price. If that happens, you can say your price. If
they don't agree, then find a different taxi. Really, price
should not come up.
* Paying the driver - When you arrive, everyone MUST GET OUT
before paying the driver. Once everyone is out, then the
person with the money should give the driver the money through
the window. Then everyone needs to walk away. Most of the
time, the driver doesn't argue with me/us, but sometimes they
will make a fuss and demand more. The thing to do is keep
walking away. You gave them a fair, reasonable amount. As a
tourist, maybe you can give the taxi driver a tiny bit more to
avoid an argument.
* You do not need to tip the driver. Just give them the fare.
Eating -
I think most meals are provided at Wikimania, but when you are
on your own...
* Koshari (dish of macaroni, rice, lentils, and sauce) or
tamiyya (falafel) make a good cheap meal. A falafel sandwich
can be had for 1-2 LE each, and koshari meal w/drink for 7-10
LE. Fast food places (e.g. McDonalds, Hardees, KFC, Pizza
Hut) are available most everywhere, though these are not cheap
meals by Egyptian standards. A meal at McDonalds will cost
~30 LE ($5-6 USD) or more. A meal at a good sit-down place
(American style cafes, and other types of places) will cost a
bit more, but I think the prices are comparable or slightly
cheaper than in the US.
* I been fine eating the food here, though felt slightly ill
after eating salad in my university cafeteria. It might have
been the tomatoes that were not great. I have avoided salad
at other places, though did get salad at McDonalds which was
fine. Some caution about eating raw fruits and vegetables is
a good idea. Cheap tamiyya and koshari have all been fine.
* Alcohol is not difficult to find in Egypt. Stella and
Sakara are brands of beer that are available here. There are
plenty of bars and clubs around, as well a hotel bar is a
definite place to find alcohol.
* Restaurants will include a service charge directly on your
bill, but you should also leave a tip.
Bathrooms -
* Western-style toilets are available pretty much most places,
though some places (e.g. Islamic Cairo), you might find a
squat-style toilet. When I arrived at the airport in Cairo, I
had some difficulty figuring out how to flush the toilet.
There is a knob on the toilet lid that you pull out and then
push back in when finished with flushing. Some toilets just
have a button to push.
* It's a good idea to carry some toilet paper or tissue with
you. Toilet paper is usually available most places I have
been, but not always. In some places, there is a staff person
manning the bathrooms, who will give you toilet paper for
bashish (tip). In some places (e.g. rest houses/stops on the
highway), you will need to pay 1 LE or another amount to use
the bathroom facilities. In places like McDonalds and other
restaurants, as well as hotels, and certainly places like
Bibliotheca, you don't pay to use the bathroom and they have
toilet paper.
Sightseeing -
I have been to the Pyramids in Giza, Sakkara, to Alexandria,
to Sinai (St. Katherine's and Sharm el-Sheikh) and will be in
Luxor this weekend. I don't have a lot of spare time to
organize these better, but I have quite a few pictures now
posted on Flickr of Alexandria and other places in Egypt:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kmf164/ Let me know if you want
sightseeing suggestions or advice.
Questions -
http://wikimania2008.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Aude - I have
posted all this on my Wikimania user page. Please feel free
to ask questions. I'm sure I missed mentioning some things.
-Aude
--
Aude
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Aude
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