Thanks for all the tips guys.

I'll definitely be doing it better next time.

Randy

On 1/12/2010 10:11 AM, Tom DeReggi wrote:
> Nothing actually has to be done to seal it because, Trango includes a
> rubbery gel sleeve that compresess between the passsthru metal plate and the
> case, with a tight fitting hole. In most cases that can be good enough.
>
> But to answer your question it depends what Fiber cable type and Power type
> you use.  We generally dont run a dedicated power cable through that same
> hole as fiber. We power the radio through one of the CAT5 ports, which has a
> great paththrue grommit type. That way its one less cable to run, and we get
> a redundant data path to the radio. The radio can be POE powered from either
> CAT5 port. There are reasons that you might choose the management vs data
> CAT5 port, dependant on the circumstances.
>
> (It should be noted that both teh data and fiber port can be both used as
> seperate PVLANs, if desired)
>
> So when just fiber going through the Metal base plate, there is not much to
> seal, UNLESS you do not have fiber cable adequate to survive the elements.
> What we often do is we use 3ft of  Flex tubing from the APEX to an outdoor
> junction box, and then patch in fiber there. It can be a hassle finding a
> cheap outdoor junction box. (So we made our own, for half the cost.)
>
> If using direct buriel multi-pair Loose tube, you can run the cable to the
> outdoor junction box and terminate with a fan out kit to a LC jack patch
> panel.  Then use a short patch cable to extend to the APEX.
> This type install is rock solid, once its done. But its a pain working with
> Fan-out kits on a windy dirty roof. (If on a tower should probably be done
> on ground first, but on roofs it would not fit through access holes in walls
> and such)
>
> There is also indoor/outdoor Fiber that has an overall outer layer, and then
> each inner layer also has its own individual outer jacket. This type cable
> is cheaper, and can have LC connector connected directly to it, without the
> hassle of a Fanout kit. This cable is also significantly thinner, and can
> fit through APEX passthrough. In these cases, the cable can be run directly
> into the APEX without any junctions inbetween.
>
> We always run Fiber that has two pair (two tx and two rx) so if one fiber
> breaks, there is an immediate spare. There is room to slip both pair with
> conectors inside the APEX, I think.
>
> It should be noted that Indoor and Outdoor fiber are not the same. It is not
> just to prevent physical breaks from getting stepped on, or Firecode/UV of
> sleeve. The mor important issue is that it has a different Temperature
> rating for Cold.  If you use indoor fiber outdoor in cold, it can crack
> internally due to cold. It should be noted that allthough Outdoor fiber and
> Fan-out kits will often have a different part number for its outdoor temp
> rated version. But most patch panels and stuff wont have an outdoor temp
> version.
>
> So, fo this reason, sometimes people perfer to put the fiber inside Flex, so
> its one more level of temperature insulation. Actually we use something
> called Liqui-tight, the grey stuff tthat can be bought just about anyware
> like HomeDepot.
>
> We debated for quite a while, whether we should use sealed FC type
> connectors inside the outdoor enclosure. The outcome was LC patch panels
> were easier to find, and LC patch panels will survive the elements just fine
> in most cases.
>
> As well, its also possible to run long fan outkits, and just run the thin
> inner fibers up through the 3ft of Liqui-tight to the APEX. That will
> survive the elements, if using outdoor temp version. BUT we chose NOT to do
> that because we were afraid that if we performed maintenance and needed to
> disconnect the fiber from the APEX, that the weight of the liqui-tight might
> break the fiber or pull loose from connector, if not careful.
> That is why we used a patch panel inside the Junction box, and patch cables
> to the APEX.
>
> We rarely ever run Conduit the whole fiber cable path, its to much of a
> pain. We'd rather use a fiber cable that is of a type that wont easilly
> break. But depending on your install location, you may disagree for your
> situation.  But if you use conduit for the run,  we recommend Liqui-tight,
> its not all that expensive and is easy to run, because you just carry it up
> in the spool.
>
> If you are worried about water intrusion, but dont want to use conduit, you
> can just cut a 6-10" peice of liquitight and screw that to the APEX base
> plate. (They make adapter to integrate to that size I think)
>
> Tom DeReggi
> RapidDSL&  Wireless, Inc
> IntAirNet- Fixed Wireless Broadband
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy Cosby"<[email protected]>
> To: "WISPA General List"<[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 11:04 AM
> Subject: [WISPA] Trango Apex Fiber port
>
>
>    
>> Just put up our first Apex 11Ghz link.  Wondering what everyone does to
>> seal up that port.  The manual says you have to hook up the fiber /
>> power port to metal conduit.  Do you run conduit all the way back to the
>> base?  Do you just use a short piece? Do you put a compression fitting
>> on the end?  Use flex?  Just curious.
>>
>> I used a threaded metal 3/4" sweep 90, then capped it off with a Trango
>> AP compression fitting.  It's a little heavy though, and I worry about
>> the little screws that hold the 3/4" threaded base plate getting
>> stripped out.
>>
>> -- 
>> Randy Cosby
>> Vice President
>> InfoWest, Inc
>>
>> 435-674-0165 x 2010
>>
>> http://www.infowest.com/
>>
>> "Letting off steam always produces more heat than light." - Neal A.
>> Maxwell
>>
>>
>>
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-- 
Randy Cosby
Vice President
InfoWest, Inc

435-674-0165 x 2010

http://www.infowest.com/

"Letting off steam always produces more heat than light." - Neal A. Maxwell



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