Nothing actually has to be done to seal it because, Trango includes a rubbery gel sleeve that compresess between the passsthru metal plate and the case, with a tight fitting hole. In most cases that can be good enough.
But to answer your question it depends what Fiber cable type and Power type you use. We generally dont run a dedicated power cable through that same hole as fiber. We power the radio through one of the CAT5 ports, which has a great paththrue grommit type. That way its one less cable to run, and we get a redundant data path to the radio. The radio can be POE powered from either CAT5 port. There are reasons that you might choose the management vs data CAT5 port, dependant on the circumstances. (It should be noted that both teh data and fiber port can be both used as seperate PVLANs, if desired) So when just fiber going through the Metal base plate, there is not much to seal, UNLESS you do not have fiber cable adequate to survive the elements. What we often do is we use 3ft of Flex tubing from the APEX to an outdoor junction box, and then patch in fiber there. It can be a hassle finding a cheap outdoor junction box. (So we made our own, for half the cost.) If using direct buriel multi-pair Loose tube, you can run the cable to the outdoor junction box and terminate with a fan out kit to a LC jack patch panel. Then use a short patch cable to extend to the APEX. This type install is rock solid, once its done. But its a pain working with Fan-out kits on a windy dirty roof. (If on a tower should probably be done on ground first, but on roofs it would not fit through access holes in walls and such) There is also indoor/outdoor Fiber that has an overall outer layer, and then each inner layer also has its own individual outer jacket. This type cable is cheaper, and can have LC connector connected directly to it, without the hassle of a Fanout kit. This cable is also significantly thinner, and can fit through APEX passthrough. In these cases, the cable can be run directly into the APEX without any junctions inbetween. We always run Fiber that has two pair (two tx and two rx) so if one fiber breaks, there is an immediate spare. There is room to slip both pair with conectors inside the APEX, I think. It should be noted that Indoor and Outdoor fiber are not the same. It is not just to prevent physical breaks from getting stepped on, or Firecode/UV of sleeve. The mor important issue is that it has a different Temperature rating for Cold. If you use indoor fiber outdoor in cold, it can crack internally due to cold. It should be noted that allthough Outdoor fiber and Fan-out kits will often have a different part number for its outdoor temp rated version. But most patch panels and stuff wont have an outdoor temp version. So, fo this reason, sometimes people perfer to put the fiber inside Flex, so its one more level of temperature insulation. Actually we use something called Liqui-tight, the grey stuff tthat can be bought just about anyware like HomeDepot. We debated for quite a while, whether we should use sealed FC type connectors inside the outdoor enclosure. The outcome was LC patch panels were easier to find, and LC patch panels will survive the elements just fine in most cases. As well, its also possible to run long fan outkits, and just run the thin inner fibers up through the 3ft of Liqui-tight to the APEX. That will survive the elements, if using outdoor temp version. BUT we chose NOT to do that because we were afraid that if we performed maintenance and needed to disconnect the fiber from the APEX, that the weight of the liqui-tight might break the fiber or pull loose from connector, if not careful. That is why we used a patch panel inside the Junction box, and patch cables to the APEX. We rarely ever run Conduit the whole fiber cable path, its to much of a pain. We'd rather use a fiber cable that is of a type that wont easilly break. But depending on your install location, you may disagree for your situation. But if you use conduit for the run, we recommend Liqui-tight, its not all that expensive and is easy to run, because you just carry it up in the spool. If you are worried about water intrusion, but dont want to use conduit, you can just cut a 6-10" peice of liquitight and screw that to the APEX base plate. (They make adapter to integrate to that size I think) Tom DeReggi RapidDSL & Wireless, Inc IntAirNet- Fixed Wireless Broadband ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Cosby" <[email protected]> To: "WISPA General List" <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 11:04 AM Subject: [WISPA] Trango Apex Fiber port > Just put up our first Apex 11Ghz link. Wondering what everyone does to > seal up that port. The manual says you have to hook up the fiber / > power port to metal conduit. Do you run conduit all the way back to the > base? Do you just use a short piece? Do you put a compression fitting > on the end? Use flex? Just curious. > > I used a threaded metal 3/4" sweep 90, then capped it off with a Trango > AP compression fitting. It's a little heavy though, and I worry about > the little screws that hold the 3/4" threaded base plate getting > stripped out. > > -- > Randy Cosby > Vice President > InfoWest, Inc > > 435-674-0165 x 2010 > > http://www.infowest.com/ > > "Letting off steam always produces more heat than light." - Neal A. > Maxwell > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > WISPA Wants You! 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