I agree with your assumptions, Dave.  We have over 200 rows of trees, about 1/3 
being tall spindle.  We build out trellises with 12' posts, typically 8" thick 
posts (6" on shorter rows of 400' or less) leaving 4 feet in the ground.and 8 
above with our top trellis wire being on top of the post at 8'.  We keep our 
trees at 8 to 8.5', mostly m9 and m26 rootstock  If we leave the posts at 3' 
depths, frost heave (Illinois/Wisconsin border) will move them out of the 
ground a few inches each year, even with cross-anchors on the base.  We also 
loosen the tension on the wires, 4 on tall spindle , 2 or 3 on the central 
leader depending on rootstock, central leader being mostly M7.  Our rows run 
from 300' to 900' and we space the center posts at 50' intervals.  We have 
found that loosening those wires in the late fall after harvest but before the 
first frost keeps the posts from moving when frost goes deeper than 4'....as it 
has this winter.  If we don't get those wires tightened back up before the 
growing season starts, the tall spindle trees will start leaning and those end 
posts will go with them from our prevailing winds.  When attaching the wire to 
center posts, we allow them to slide through the staple, which eventually puts 
more of the stress on the end post, but we also adjust the tension throughout 
the growing season.  Since we are also a U-Pick operation, we have to be 
concerned with safety, so we do not use wire stabilizers at the ends of the row 
to brace the end post.  We brace the end of row post with a 6' post angled back 
into the row as pictured at 
http://fruit-crops.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/3.10-slender-spinle-apple-bolzano.jpg
 with another post 4' in the ground at the base of the angle post 1' above 
ground for additional bracing.  If we don't get the brace at least 6' long, our 
posts will start to lean into the row.  This system seems to have worked well 
for us over the years with minimal maintenance from leaning posts.

We have found the publication "Support Systems for High Density Orchards" at 
http://www.al.gov.bc.ca/resmgmt/publist/300Series/336000-1.pdf to be quite 
helpful.  And, fortunately for us, we were a family of residential home 
builders prior to getting into the orchard business and my father in law has an 
engineering degree!!  

Dennis Norton
IPM Specialist/Certified Nurseryman
Royal Oak Farm Orchard
15908 Hebron Rd.
Harvard, IL 60033-9357
Office (815) 648-4467
Mobile (815) 228-2174
Fax (609) 228-2174
http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com
http://www.theorchardkeeper.blogspot.com
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: David A. Rosenberger 
  To: Apple-crop discussion list 
  Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2014 12:29 PM
  Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Tall spindle trellis


  In theory, trellis rows could be “as long as you want them to be,”  but in 
reality there are almost certainly limits to the amount of tension the 
end-posts can handle without coming out of the ground.    


  Consider the worst case scenario:  Trees that have grown to 3-ft above the 
wire (i.e., 13 ft tall) with 2000 bushels/A evenly distributed over the upper 
12 ft of the canopy (i.e., none within 1 ft of the ground).  That could mean 
that 25% of the fruit are above the 10-ft top wire, and in my experience those 
upper limbs will tend to fall toward the leeward side of the tree due to wind 
effects. Let’s assume that trees are on 10-ft row spacings and that 10% of the 
total crop is above the wire and off-center to the leeward side.  If I’ve done 
the math correctly so far, that means that every acre will have 4-tons of 
apples off-center and at least 10-ft above ground.  At 10-ft between rows, it 
will require 4,356 ft to make an acre.  Thus, with rows 1000-ft long, there 
will be roughly 1 ton of off-center apples 10-ft above the ground.  Now add a 
40 mph crosswind just before harvest, and (for those in the east) assume that 
you just had 10 inches of rain due to a hurricane coming up the coast. The line 
posts will provide some support, but ultimately the greatest stress will be on 
the end-posts, and that stress will increase with the total length of the 
trellis.  


  Even on short rows of only 300 ft, I have gradually seen trellises go 
off-center with time (i.e., line posts begin to lean a bit) due to wind 
effects, uneven cropping on the two sides of the trees, and slope (which leads 
to uneven frost-heave effects).  If the trellises are tilted just a bit under 
the scenarios outlined above, then the stresses on the end posts will be 
multiplied.  Admittedly, my observations are mostly with wider trees and wider 
row spacings, and those planting systems probably was more prone to going 
off-center than a narrow tree wall.  Nevertheless, the side-ways forces on 
trellises should not be ignored.


  You may quibble with some of my assumptions, but I really would like to 
see/hear an engineers perspective on how long rows can be given various soil 
types, diameter of both line posts and end posts, crop distribution in tops of 
trees, soil moisture levels, etc.    Whatever the answers might be, I can 
guarantee that when a trellis goes over in a storm, the owner with shorter 
sections is likely to come out with smaller losses than the person with longer 
runs if one assumes that construction on shorter and longer sections was 
equivalent.

  ****************************************************************
  Dave Rosenberger, Plant Pathologist (retired)
      Cornell's Hudson Valley Lab, P.O. Box 727, Highland, NY 12528
         Office:  845-691-7231    Cell:     845-594-3060
          http://pppmb.cals.cornell.edu/people/dave-rosenberger
  ****************************************************************


  On Feb 20, 2014, at 12:43 PM, Hugh Thomas <hughthoma...@gmail.com> wrote:


    Seems to me, that they could basically be as long as you want them to be. I 
would calculate the fuel capacity of my tractors so that one doesn't run out of 
fuel before getting back...



    On Thu, Feb 20, 2014 at 7:27 AM, Fleming, William 
<w...@exchange.montana.edu> wrote:

      We had rows 2200 feet long between end anchors. 4 wires, 10’ high with 
posts spaced at 42’, 3’ deep. End posts were a larger diameter, 4’ deep at 
about a 45° angle. 

      Wires and anchors were attached to a 4’ long screw in steel anchor with 
8” plate. Ground was basically flat.

      No problems holding a bumper crop. 



      Bill Fleming

      Montana State University

      Western Ag Research Center

      580 Quast Lane

      Corvallis, MT 59828



      From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Arthur Kelly
      Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2014 6:24 AM
      To: Apple-Crop
      Subject: [apple-crop] Tall spindle trellis



      What is the longest length of trellis for tall spindle apple planting 
that growers have experience with?




      -- 

      Art Kelly

      Kelly Orchards

      Acton, ME


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