The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 202 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) Re: accident: I got whacked Re: accident: I got whacked Re: Updating the toolbox Re: Updating the toolbox Re: Updating the toolbox E36 325/5 loping idle Re: E36 325/5 loping idle Re: E36 325/5 loping idle Re: Make mine silver please re: Z3 / M Coupe Subframe Tearing ??? Re: re: Z3 / M Coupe Subframe Tearing ??? Re: Smog Check Re: Smog Check Re: Smog Check
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 21:29:51 +0100 From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: "No specific plans at the moment, I'm just curious what choices might exist. Ideally I'd like to not run out of revs in 4th gear at Watkins Glen. More power would be nice, too, but I know it takes more than a change in rear-end ratio to do that!" The automatic 318is in E36 guise had a 4.44 - 8% shorter. This may fit. If before you got 21 mph per 1000 rpm in top, you would now get 19.4 mph, which is a bit short for motorway work. The greater torque transfer works for you up to the point where you spend more time with the clutch disengaged than you do accelerating. Andy T '03 318i 2.0 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 16:49:28 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: accident: I got whacked Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Be careful about submitting a bill to your own insurance company. Companies like Allstate, USAA etc will tag your policy and it will not allow you to be in the lowest risk group for cheaper rates. Take the bill and submit it to the other person's insurance company. If you have a good relationship with your agent, maybe speak to them but beware the risk of them reporting it. Doesn't matter if it was not your fault, you were in a wreck and thus a higher risk to them now. Mike -> -----Original Message----- -> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of JUSTIN GERRY -> Sent: Friday, May 21, 2004 11:52 AM -> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> Subject: Re: [UUC] accident: I got whacked -> -> -> Why wouldn't you just go to the dealer, buy a new tail light -> assembly and persue a claim against the Toyota? -> -> You can then submit a bill to your insurance company for the -> replaced part (along with all the body work etc). -> -> That is what I did and they had no trouble with it. I told -> them I was not going to drive around with a smashed tail -> light, and I replaced it immediately following the incident -> (the whole rear of the car was swiped by a pickup truck). -> -> -Jusitn -> -> -- -> '76 02 -> '97 m3 -> bmw cca -> checkout http://www.bmw2002.net -> Search the -> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] -> -> -> _____________________________________________________________ -> _____________ -> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of -> the BMW CCA. -> -> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the -> Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 -> . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -> ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 17:27:49 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: accident: I got whacked Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Be careful about submitting a bill to your own insurance company. > Companies like Allstate, USAA etc will tag your policy and it will > not allow you to be in the lowest risk group for cheaper rates. Sorry, but that's just fear mongering. Disclaimer: insurance rules and regulations very by state; we have plenty of insurance adjusters on this list to address state specific situations. In general: - you are highly unlikely to be surcharged for not-at-fault accidents. Whether you pursue the claim through your own or at-fault-party's insurance company. - even for your-fault accidents, insurance companies (or states, whenever the insurance policies are state defined) have minimal thresholds before they bump up your rates. In my home state of Texas, insurance companies can not surcharge policy holders for at-fault accident of less then $1,000. - as with the speeding tickets, no reputable company will surcharge you for one infraction. Progressive, Geico, etc are obviously not on that list. The other advantage of working through your insurance company is to add a 1,000 # guerrilla to your corner. You can almost bet money on the fact that the other person who caused the accident will not fess up to his/her company. They will blame in on you. Guess where the other company's sympathies and self-interests lie? You will be presumed guilty unless proven otherwise. Once you get your insurance company (and the possibility of them having to pay out to the other party) on your side, they will argue your case. And if necessary go to intra-insurance arbitration to resolve the claim. That dispute resolution venue is NOT available to you as an individual. You company will also immediately cut you a check for repairs - deductible to minimize that exiting time in the crappy rental. Once they win your case, they will subrogate from the other insurance company and return your deductible once the money arrives. The only time you might be worse off is if: 1. You are at fault; -and- 2. You pay-off the other side without your company's knowledge; -and- 3. Your insurance company does not automatically update/re-price policy holders' policies with the latest accident reports. If _you_ are afraid of your own dis-reputable insurance company, why the hack are you paying them? > Take the bill and submit it to the other person's insurance company. > If you have a good relationship with your agent, maybe speak to them > but beware the risk of them reporting it. You agent will absolutely report you. But that's hardly a risk, assuming you are not at-fault. > Doesn't matter if it was not your fault, you were in a wreck and > thus a higher risk to them now. NOT TRUE. alex f ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 15:48:18 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Updating the toolbox Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 5/21/04 2:11 PM, Howard Siegel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On Fri, 21 May 2004, Neil Maller wrote: >> E36 brake caliper bleed screws are 7mm. > Where can one get a good quality, but not outrageously expensive > set of flare nut wrenches that go down to 7mm? I've only recently > started looking and can only find them down to 9mm. Don't know, but of course there's no need to use a flare nut wrench on the bleed nipple. I just put a box end on before the bleed hose. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 17:49:18 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Updating the toolbox Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Flare nut wrenches don't come that small because flare nuts don't come that small. Flare nut wrenches are designed for a particular purpose, to allow the installation and removal of end fittings on tubing, generally in hydraulic and automotive applications. Since the tubing in these applications is a small assortment of sizes, the number of wrench sizes to fit these fittings is limited. A 7mm end fitting would fit a 3mm tube, which is not used in automotive applications. Ed Howard Siegel wrote: >On Fri, 21 May 2004, Neil Maller wrote: > > > >>E36 brake caliper bleed screws are 7mm. >> >> > >Where can one get a good quality, but not outrageously expensive >set of flare nut wrenches that go down to 7mm? I've only recently >started looking and can only find them down to 9mm. > >- h > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 20:38:54 -0400 (EDT) From: Howard Siegel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Updating the toolbox Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Are you sure? A few weeks back I found a tool distributor that had them, just can't remember the URL for their web site now that I actually want to purchase one. I do remember that the 7mm size was not available in any of the sets, so I'd have to get it as an individual part. And, I had to flush the browser's caches so I can't even go back to my URL history to find it. Argh! - h On Fri, 21 May 2004, Ed MacVaugh wrote: > Flare nut wrenches don't come that small because flare nuts don't come > that small. > > Flare nut wrenches are designed for a particular purpose, to allow the > installation and removal of end fittings on tubing, generally in > hydraulic and automotive applications. Since the tubing in these > applications is a small assortment of sizes, the number of wrench sizes > to fit these fittings is limited. A 7mm end fitting would fit a 3mm > tube, which is not used in automotive applications. > > Ed > > Howard Siegel wrote: > > >On Fri, 21 May 2004, Neil Maller wrote: > > > > > > > >>E36 brake caliper bleed screws are 7mm. > >> > >> > > > >Where can one get a good quality, but not outrageously expensive > >set of flare nut wrenches that go down to 7mm? I've only recently > >started looking and can only find them down to 9mm. > > > >- h > > > > > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- hsiegel~at~pobox~dot~com <*> Netcom Class of '93, RIP Netcom! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 15:29:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E36 325/5 loping idle Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all, I've noticed that while coasting with the tranny in neutral, the engine lopes slightly until I come to near a full stop. Although this isn't much of a problem per se, it is annoying in that I'm sure the car didn't do this when new. Any ideas? Brian 93 325 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Domains – Claim yours for only $14.70/year http://smallbusiness.promotions.yahoo.com/offer ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 15:44:40 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 325/5 loping idle Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I think it probably did. My 95 M3 did it until I changed to a JC chip, and so did my wife's 93 325. If memory serves the loping idle thing was one of the things that drove Jim C into delving into the depths of the DME. or it maybe a bad idle control valve, but then it would probably do it all the time, not just while coasting. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Ruiz Sent: Friday, May 21, 2004 3:29 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] E36 325/5 loping idle Hi all, I've noticed that while coasting with the tranny in neutral, the engine lopes slightly until I come to near a full stop. Although this isn't much of a problem per se, it is annoying in that I'm sure the car didn't do this when new. Any ideas? Brian 93 325 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Domains Claim yours for only $14.70/year http://smallbusiness.promotions.yahoo.com/offer Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 16:13:47 -0700 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 325/5 loping idle Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Re: [UUC] E36 325/5 loping idle: As a quick check before digging deeper, you might also try dis/reconnecting all the injector connectors and loosen/tightening the injector rail bolts to be sure they all have a good ground. A partially misfiring injector can cause some lope at idle too. Barry ps, Yes, I like to be well grounded ;-) Marco Romani wrote: >I think it probably did. My 95 M3 did it until I changed to a JC chip, and >so did my wife's 93 325. If memory serves the loping idle thing was one of >the things that drove Jim C into delving into the depths of the DME. >or it maybe a bad idle control valve, but then it would probably do it all >the time, not just while coasting. >Marco > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 16:08:40 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Make mine silver please Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > http://cedesign.me.ncu.edu.tw/medesign/course/ME/SS04/Making_of_an_E46.wmv I think I saw Klaus the forklift operator in the background! http://www.hugi.is/hahradi/bigboxes.php?box_id=51208&f_id=1000 -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 17:38:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: re: Z3 / M Coupe Subframe Tearing ??? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yeah, I've been reading about this on the forums. It seems to be mostly the M's, but it is also present in other Z3 models (coupes and roadsters). I have already met an M coupe owner that has had it fixed by the dealer paid by BMWNA. So far I haven't had a problem with it. My Early build '99 M Coupe has a few track days and a bunch of autox's. I kinda think I'm easy on the car. Few theories to why it's happening. 1. There is only 1 diff mount. That's where the diff is attached to the subframe. The 1 diff mount is not able to handle all the power and eventually cracks. This is basically the same design used on the E30's. 2. Weak a** spot welds. The subframe is attached to the floor with a few spot welds. Eventually leading to the separation of the body to the subframe. My girlfriend does takes welding classes, and says that my welds were poorly made. For now, it is still attached. 3. Thin gauge metal used for the trunk floor. Someone measured the gauge of the floor and says it's a bit thin. I don't remember what gauge it was measured at. I'm no engineer, so I don't know if any of the above makes sense to you. But that's what I hear from what others said on the boards. Do a search on www.bimmerforums.com, www.bimmerfest.com, and www.roadfly.org and you'll find a lot of info about this. Mike Still in 1 piece.... for now.... --- Dave Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > As recently reported on M Coupe web site > http://www.368s.com : > > "There have been a number of reports of the subframe > and/or differential > tearing in Coupes and Roadsters. While the cause is > not completely > known, it's clear that the separation issue is > affecting a number of owners." > > Is this an isolated occurance, something that will > happen to all Z3's > eventually, entirely dependent on usage, or what? > Does anyone have > any further insight? Thank you very much! > > Dave Meyer > 99 328is (considering an M coupe) > 03 FLHRI > Stafford VA > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Domains – Claim yours for only $14.70/year http://smallbusiness.promotions.yahoo.com/offer ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 May 2004 00:01:57 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: re: Z3 / M Coupe Subframe Tearing ??? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mike Hsu wrote: > My Early build '99 M Coupe has a few > track days and a bunch of autox's. actually it's a few autox's and a bunch of track days <checks Excel matrix> make that 15 days & 1,100 miles :-) > I kinda think I'm easy on the car. other than the track work I drove it like a grandma. Carlos auto'xed it maybe 4-5 times. > 1. There is only 1 diff mount. That's where the diff > is attached to the subframe. The 1 diff mount is not > able to handle all the power and eventually cracks. > This is basically the same design used on the E30's. not exactly. the E30 diff mounts with 4 bolts directly to the subframe and another bolt to the body thru the diff mount. the design is the same as the E30, just with some tweaks for height of bushings & evolution of the trailing arm design over time. > 2. Weak a** spot welds. The subframe is attached to > the floor with a few spot welds. Eventually leading > to the separation of the body to the subframe. nope. the subframe is bolted to the chassis with the subframe bolts and by the diff mount to the body on the back side. there's only three bolts holding it on. what's happening is that the floorpan itself it coming apart and the diff mount is also cracking. this guy happens to have both problems and has it pretty well documented : http://www.nuzz.org/mcoupe/mcoupecracking.html roadfly thread on this particular failure being fixed : http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/z3-coupe/5137630-1.html interesting that one of the theories is that the subframe bushings are too soft. I assume the thought is that the torque of the engine, the weak floor & the soft subframe bushings allow things to flex, fatigue & eventually break. I can see why this wouldn't be a problem on heavily tracked E30's for several reasons : 1 - stiffer subframe bushings on tracked cars 2 - not enough power on stock cars 3 - different floorpan design w/o the weakness 4 - different diff mount design w/o the weakness I'm no engineer either, but I was the previous owner (leaser) of Mike's M coupe, but those are my thoughts on it. Ben ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 21:21:01 -0400 (EDT) From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Smog Check Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Fri, 21 May 2004, Marco Romani wrote: > cat's for lawn mowers and leaf blowers aren't far off. not a bad idea actually, at least for mowers. the karts at the local indoor track have cats on their 6hp honda motors joel ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 20:14:54 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Smog Check Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Fri, May 21, 2004 at 09:21:01PM -0400, Joel Gallun wrote: > On Fri, 21 May 2004, Marco Romani wrote: > > > cat's for lawn mowers and leaf blowers aren't far off. > > not a bad idea actually, at least for mowers. the karts at the local > indoor track have cats on their 6hp honda motors ...not to mention that it's bitchin' cool to look at the kart ahead of you and see glowing hot exhaust. It's got a certain cool factor. And if your eyes aren't burning from unburnt hydrocarbons, so much the better! But if they want to do the rolling road dyno test on my garden tractor semi-annually, they can bite me. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 21:25:53 -0400 (EDT) From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Smog Check Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Fri, 21 May 2004, JKerouac wrote: > OBMWC: anyone running Bdiesel in a bimmer? the Right Reverend Alphonso Taylor has a biodiesel racecar. > What's it run like? I've never been as happy to make a pass as when i've passed Al in the soy-mobile. joel ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
