Glenn R. Edwards wrote:
> Jon,
> I hope it doesn't appear as though I am jostling you for the final word,
> however you pointed out a major difference between us hobbyists and
> professionals.  A professional must deliver a part in spec 100% of the time
> ( six sigma- don't get me started...) no matter if the part was cut in the
> cold morning or during a hot afternoon, if the part was mounted at the
> center of the table or if mounted near the edge, if the machine was being
> run by your best operator or the guy you hired yesterday.
> 
> A tap can wear, but so can a thread mill cutter and probably faster.
> However, thread milling introduces two additional tolerances that tapping
> does not.  Each of those tolerances can (and eventually will) produce an
> unacceptable thread.  A loose fitting thread can have a LOT less pull-out
> strength than a properly formed thread.  And, you might not be aware of a
> loose thread unless you have a GO NO-GO gage.  In my day job, I want tapped
> holes from the machine shop (In fact, I am getting quite accustomed to
> roll-tapping and the superior strength thread it produces).  During the
> weekend, I will enjoy making my own threaded holes with a thread mill.
Yup, I have to say I do not do aerospace work, or much where a 
mechanical failure would endanger life or limb.  And, I am not a 
job shop where all my parts wind up passing under the scrutiny 
of my customer's incoming parts inspector.

On the other hand, I buy a lot of stuff that is SUPPOSED to be 
tested, and I have a little pill bottle full of screws with no 
threads or no recess in the head, and such like.

My guess is that thread milling with a worn cutter will result 
in an under-size internal thread or an oversize external one, in 
either case the parts can't be assembled, rather than a 
too-loose thread.

Jon

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