EV Digest 5376
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Maximising torque for racing
by Dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Public Pay charging stations (Was: Re: Monster Garage)
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Public Pay charging stations (Was: Re: Monster Garage)
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: EVers in Ohio
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Last Chance - Tour de Sol Monte Carlo Rally invite
by M Bianchi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Knee Point - Does anyone understand this?
by "Dale Curren" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) 1980 Plymouth : Plymouth TC3 Jet Electric Car Item number: 4631155544
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Re: Monster Garage
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Crazy DC regen idea, thoughts, comments
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: 1980 Plymouth : Plymouth TC3 Jet Electric Car Item number: 4631155544
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Some problems to solve
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: 1980 Plymouth : Plymouth TC3 Jet Electric Car Item number: 4631155544
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Some problems to solve
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: EVers in Ohio
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Some problems to solve
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Why have traction batteries increased 50%, was Re: T-125 Equivalent
Batteries
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) WONDERFUL NEWS - Christmas in April !!!
by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
by Nick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Lee's Half-Pack Comparator
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) High-Watts/Low-Watts
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: how to determine weight from tire patch area
by "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: WONDERFUL NEWS - Christmas in April !!!
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Knee Point - Does anyone understand this?
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: High-Watts/Low-Watts
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Some problems to solve
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Smalley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Apr 15, 2006 11:03 PM
>To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>Subject: Re: Maximising torque for racing
>
>I just sketched it out and it appears that it could work if the motor has
>interpoles.
>
>When do you think you can have a demonstration ready?
I have an adv dc 9" without interpoles so I haven't built a field
controller yet. I can't decide to go forward under these conditions
or not but I am tempted to try!
Maybe two months? May just get a fireballed comm :>}
>
>Joe Smalley
>Rural Kitsap County WA
>Fiesta 48 volts
>NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
>Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 10:14 PM
>Subject: Re: Maximising torque for racing
>
>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >From: Joe Smalley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >Sent: Apr 15, 2006 7:28 PM
>> >To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>> >Subject: Re: Maximising torque for racing
>> >
>> >Actually, No.
>> >
>> >I was using a series wound motor and doing a PWM on the field in series
>with
>> >the armature.
>> >It is impossible to keep the current on the field in the same
>> >polarity when the armature current reverses.
>>
>> Hm-m-m-m. In theory, if you provide additional field curent with a
>> field controller which is boosting only the field, then you should reach
>> a point where the armature current is zero.The armature back emf
>> would equal the applied voltage so its' current would be zero and
>> the field controller would be suppling 100% of the field current.
>>
>> If you then increased the field current the armature back
>> emf should exceed the applied voltage and the armature should start to
>> supply current in the opposite direction.The field controller would then
>be
>> suppling both field current in the positive direction and armature
>current in the
>> negative direction thus giving regen. Of course, this assumes that the
>> main controller's power stage is able to pass reverse current
>> ( it could be bypassed ) and that the motor would be able commutate
>> without fireballing under these conditions. But it is possible to supply
>> both a positive field current and a negative armature current at the same
>> time from the field controller and give regen with a series wound motor
>> provided that these conditions were met.
>>
>>
>> >
>> >If you want to do regen, you need either a sep-ex, shunt, or compound
>wound
>> >motor with a separate field control. My idea was an active field
>weakening
>> >scheme. It cannot reduce or reverse the armature current. It can only
>> >increase the armature current.
>> >
>> >Joe Smalley
>> >Rural Kitsap County WA
>> >Fiesta 48 volts
>> >NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
>> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 09:05:15 -0700 (PDT), Ralph Merwin
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Neon John writes:
>>
>> It therefore would not be hard to sell this idea of selling power, I
>> don't think. RVs are everywhere. EVs are below the radar but could
>> ride on the backs of the RVers to get public charging stations. I
>> don't see how Wallywould could NOT do it if they can be shown that
>> they'll make money from the shopper AND from his vehicle. After all,
>> they are now in the gas retailing business.
>
>I have heard (but couldn't find cofirmation of the fact) that if a
>business were to sell electricity it would be considered a public
>utility and regulated as such. This would prevent many businesses
>from installing coin-op charging stations. Does anyone know if this
>is true or not?
Depends on what state you're in. I know of three modes - unregulated,
allowed to resell at cost (centrally metered apartments and long term
rental RV lots, for instance) and no resale. There may be others,
those are just the ones I know of.
>
>Having the local electric utility install the coin-op station would
>be an alternative. However, in Portland, Oregon, one of the local
>electric utilities, Portland General Electric, cannot do this because
>it violates a charter restriction that prohibits them from increasing
>demand for electricity. Hopefully other utilities are not restricted
>in this manner.
There is a fairly easy way around this. Designate the fee as rental
for a parking spot with power available. Officially, "park by a pole,
pay the fee. Park elsewhere, free." That Wallyworld might choose not
to enforce the part about paying the fee if one doesn't plug in is
another matter :-)
Sadly, this is yet another example of the government so-called
"protecting" the public, only to have it backfire. I found a similar
thing in Pa when I moved there to work at Three Mile Island. I could
not find an apartment to rent anywhere. There simply were not any
apartment developments as we know them down here. I finally bought a
double that had been converted to 3 units just to have a place to
live.
It turned out that the reason for the lack of rental property was the
"tenant protection" laws that make it practically impossible to evict
even the worst tenant in less than about a year. Faced with
destructive deadbeat tenants, real estate investors simply looked
elsewhere.
Whenever I put a one line ad in the local shopper, my answering
machine would be blown off the wall by people desperate for an
apartment. I could demand pretty much anything in rent, which in my
case was about 3 times the rent I could get in the South, 2 months'
rent up front, another month's rent as deposit and another month's
rent as deposit for each kid or pet.
A very screwed up situation. Down here I can get a bad tenant out in
about a month which means that good people don't have to pay the
penalty of having to support the bad ones.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
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--- Begin Message ---
On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 13:34:24 -0500, Danny Miller
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>As an aside, I have to note that sooner or later some asshat legislator
>is going to note that an EV charging station is a fuel for use on public
>roadways, and as such should be subject to a highway tax.
If EVs ever get popular enough to become visible then they'll have to
pay road tax just like everyone else. Hopefully like TN does for
propane-fueled vehicles - a tax decal that costs a fixed annual amount
per vehicle weight class. (At least I think they still do it that
way.) Road tax is one tax that I have no objection to since (at least
in this state) 100% of the tax goes to road construction and
maintenance.
>
>If it was not a dedicated EV charging station, just an outlet than an RV
>could also be plugged into, then it would be impractical to apply a road
>tax. Well, with gasoline they charge the road gas tax at the pump on
>the reasonable assumption that it will be used on the road, and you can
>keep the receipt and later claim a rebate if you don't use the fuel on
>the road. So a pay outlet might have an EV road tax on it and if you
>used it for your RV A/C instead you could get a rebate.
I sure hope they don't go that route. One of my most despised tasks
in the restaurant is the monthly sales tax payment. I don't mind the
payment as much as I do the paperwork and having to keep track of it.
>
>Here's another thing. Wal-Mart has an unofficial policy of allowing
>RV'ers to camp in their parking lots. And that happens a lot if you
>ever look for them. An outlet, pay or not, that could be used to run an
>A/C and lighting might make it so they never leave. Not sure if
>customers living in the parking lot is a good thing or a bad thing?
People who camp out at Wallyworld are giving meddling local politicos
the excuses they need to (try to) ban overnight parking. So yes,
having "campers" hang around is a bad thing.
>
>And I tell ya as a guy with a camper van having 110v to run an A/C is a
>godsend in Texas much of the year. If a converter could be rigged up
>(and it's certainly possible) I could see people sneaking up to an EV
>charging station and making use of the power for unintended purposes.
>Kind of heinous if the power were free. Really this is only like $1 a
>day, but it would keep an EV from being able to use it.
If wallyworld pay-for-power outlets ever get installed, they will
officially be for the RVers. EVs will benefit but there just aren't
enough of them to make a business case for Wallyworld. The metered
outlet makes both business sense to Wallyworld and serves to limit the
campers. One could even program that little brain inside the meter to
turn the power off during daylight hours :-)
I envision a standard RV pedestal that contains a 20 amp 120 volt
outlet, a 30 amp, 120 volt RV outlet and a 50 amp 240 volt 4 wire
range outlet. These pedestals are available on the market,
prefabricated and pre-wired. Just plop 'em down or bolt 'em to
something, hook up 120/240 volt service and away you go. For this
application, add the currency and plastic acceptor and a suitable
contactor.
Large RVs (motor coaches and large motorhomes) use 50 amp service at
240 volts. Conveniently what a high powered EV charger uses. Smaller
RVs use either a 30 amp 120 volt special RV 3 prong plug or a standard
20 amp 120 convenience outlet plug. Again, conveniently, the
connectors lower powered EV chargers use.
On any given night there are from 3 to 7 or 8 RVs in the local
Wallyworld lot. If they all hooked up and paid a buck or two an hour,
that'd be a nice little hunk of revenue generated from otherwise
unused real estate. OTOH, there are two EVs in Cleveland. Not much
of a business case to be made for spending several thousand bux to
install outlets for those. So we sell the RV side and let EVs
benefit.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Michael,
I also live in Akron, about 4 miles from Davids house.
Myers Motors is located just outside Akron in
Tallmadge. They make the NmG (was the Corbin
Sparrow).
You can probably make an appointment to stop buy and
see the vehicle and they should have one you can
drive.
www.myersmotors.com
Rod
--- "Dr. Polsinelli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am new to EV's and am purchasing a used one. I
> noticed that David is
> in Akron. I'm in the Cleveland area. Are there more
> people or a group
> around here?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Michael
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ryan Stotts wrote:
> Did Subaru or Mitsubishi decide to show?
I don't know. They are not a sponsor, but there are exhibitors.
http://www.nesea.org/transportation/tour/2006Sponsors.php
--
Mike Bianchi
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
** Reply to message from Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on Sat, 15 Apr
2006 11:17:50 -0700 (PDT)
Thanks for the reply. I beleive the controller is from a GEM or more likely a
forklift. The manual says forklift. The whole thing is so confusing, I'm
ready to replace it with something else. An Altrax maybe. Then put a jumper
between the armature terminal and the field terminal to make it a series motor.
Do you have any experience with that?
> Is this on a GEM? Be careful and change it in little increments at a time, but
> turning this up a tad will help get some more RPM's out of the motor. The
> stock
> setting should be 43, I don't knwo if I'd go much beyone maybe 45 here. I will
> say this though, the professional reprogrammers do not change this setting.
> Turning #7, the min field current, down will gain you the most. If this is a
> GEM with the stock motor try 75 for #7, I'd be hesitant to go any lower. 72
> and
> maybe 70 can be used if it's the aftermarket motor. I was told this is a motor
> life issue more than anything. Function 7 is what allows more motor rpm's.
>
>
> http://www.evtrader.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=75&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
>
> Dale Curren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello Everyone, Newby here,
>
> The following is a quote from my controller manual.
> It has a setting that is not clear to me.
> This is controlling a shunt motor. What does it mean by "START" ?
> Does it mean that field weakening starts to gradually kick in at some point?
> Or, as the next sentence implies, at some point all FW is fully in effect?
> It seems contradictory to me.
>
>
>
> FUNCTION 24 FIELD WEAKENING START (or MOTOR KNEE POINT)
>
> This function allows for setting the armature current at
> which minimum field current will be achieved.
> Range 0 to 350 Amps
> Setting 0 to 255
> Resolution 1.625 per set unit
> Example: Setting of 26 = 42 amps.
>
> Dale Curren
>
>
>
>
> Later,
> Ricky
> 02 Insight
> 92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
> Glendale, AZ USA
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
> countries) for 2¢/min or less.
Dale Curren
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On e-bay. Starting at $1500. I used to have one. Not too bad for a starter
car, but I'd change to a higher power controller.
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joe Smalley wrote:
> If you look at electric tools, the going charger is a "one hour
> charger". This seems to fit with the operational temp of construction
> sites. The tool is charged overnight and then again at lunch. If the
> operational tempo is high, then there are two batteries per tool and
> they are swapped out mid morning and then again mid afternoon.
>
> Is this operational tempo going to work with fork trucks, material
> handling equipment or delivery trucks?
A 1-hour charger is possible for small tools, because the peak power
isn't that high. Also, the batteries they use are optimized for low
internal resistance, because they want to *discharge* them much faster
than a 1C rate.
When I was at Schott Power Systems, we investigated using one very high
power charger for charging forklifts. Rather than have (say) 10 chargers
for 10 forklifts that take 8 hours to charge, you could have a single
high-power charger that could recharge 1 forklift in 1 hour, or all 10
in 8 hours.
Conceptually it worked. In practice, it didn't. Forklift batteries are
built for long, slow discharges over an entire shift. So they have
relatively high internal resistance. So, they don't charge well in 1
hour. The best you could do is about a 50% "opportunity charge".
And, the nature of the forklift marked was opposed to such a charging
scheme. They are used to having one charger per vehicle, and didn't
trust having a single charger -- it created a single point of failure
that could disable *all* their forklifts! So, they felt they would need
all the individual chargers in addition to the high-power charger. There
went any cost savings or benefits of the one-big-charger scheme.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
HI All,
Thanks for the informative feedback. I am sorry i didn't mention too much
about my design in my previous email.
I have got the image captured on the CRO, switcing times is not a problem at
all, the transition to the ON state is hardly ever in the ohmic region of
the load curve. So the power loss due to I^2 R is not an issue i don't
think. I am swithcing at high current so that the capacitance of the gate of
the mosfet gets charged and discharged quickly.
And yes, i am tracking the input voltage of the panel at its MPP voltage so
that max current flows, i'll let the pWM chip decide on the duty cycle as
the traction pack voltage rises (72 volt system).
Great thoughts though, low inductance and also the LC filter to capture
energy during ON state, didn't think of that one! Excellent Danny.
Cheers
From: Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Crazy DC regen idea, thoughts, comments
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 00:43:23 -0500
Better place to take this off-topic problem:
http://www.electro-tech-online.com/index.php
But to answer your question, one of three things is likely happening. If
your inductance value is too low and the required on-time at this freq is
so high that the current rises to an unnecessarily high level this can
happen, and/or the inductor is saturating. When the DC value of the
current reaches the inductor's saturation current level, the inductor will
basically stop being an inductor and is like a dead short. The current
will get high.
Also too slow a switching time is a very typical and likely problem. You
need to see the output on a scope.
You have a tricky situation. A solar panel is a constant current output
and a battery is a dynamic load, really you don't care about output voltage
so much as maximizing the output current as long as the charge state is
under 100%. This is why the maximum power point tracker was designed.
Also if it's a boost converter as you mention, the input stage is not just
a filter but has to be an energy buffer to fully utilize the solar panel's
energy output. If you only take current off the panel during the on-state
of the dc/dc, the current the panel could have produced during the
off-period is ignored. A large LC filter is very helpful, this is a design
concern that needs to be integrated into the other issues.
There are actually quite a few issues, perhaps too much to discuss here.
Danny
Robert Chew wrote:
Hi Lee,
I have designed and built a DC boost convertor for my solar panel charging
of my traction pack.
Driving the gate of the IRF540N mosfet with a 6 amp mosfet driver IC and
using a PWM chip. The gate drive voltage is 12.4 volts which is higher
than the Vgs value of 10 volts to achieve the minimum drain to source
resistance.
However, my mosfet is overheating like mad, i have totalled four mosfets
already by passing only 400ma to the batteries.
What could be going wrong. I have got a 4.7 ohm gate resistor in there to
minimise the ringing, although at such low frequencies, 20 kHz there is
minimal ringing.
Could it be the value of my inductor, i simply choose any inductor i could
get my hands on.
If so what would be a method to size my inductor for my needs.
Cheers for your help.
_________________________________________________________________
Test drive new cars from the comfort of your desk at carpoint.com.au
http://secure-au.imrworldwide.com/cgi-bin/a/ci_450304/et_2/cg_801459/pi_1004813/ai_833884
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--- Begin Message ---
I'd swear I have seen that car on Ebay in the last few months.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> On e-bay. Starting at $1500. I used to have one. Not too bad for
a starter
> car, but I'd change to a higher power controller.
>
> Steve
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a few problems to solve in my EV
1) it takes minimum of 6 and sometimes 8 seconds (me counting
1001,1002..) For the zilla 1K to precharge from a 288V nominal pack
before it will pull in the main contactor and letting go to soon is a
red light event requireing shutting off and tring again. I have a dc-dc
converter backed up with a orbital so my 12 V is more like a very stiff
13.5V . The zilla charges the caps off the main pack, correct? the 12V
is just for control?
Is this normal? I don't remember it taking so long before my major
EVent. Is this settable, it is embarassing to sit there, wait for the
vacuum pump to stop, hold in clutch and turn key for 7 seconds only to
turn it off and do it all over again sometimes. (frustrating and bad EV
image) This is the most difficult to handle.
2) Charger no longer lights the blue LED. It's acceptance voltage is set
for 350 (14.7*24 would be 354) and the regs come on flashing, the
charger output switches on and off rapidly unless I go turn down the
current control and then I can't put more than 1 amp into the pack and
the voltage with the green led's flashing about 1/sec. Voltage just
hangs at 340 while 1 amp goes into pack, Is this 1 amp just going into
heating? It seems as if the max bypass current of the regs is preventing
the charger from pushing hard enough and it is just a push. My DC-DC
converter is always connected to the pack, could that be the problem?
It seemed to show up when the weather got colder...
3) Acceleration is definitly less than before the EVent. How much does
a darker black, kinda powdery comm resist vs a nice smooth light brown
comm? I will double check my voltage limits in the zilla today and the
throttle position reading, and check it again in a week when(hopefully)
the weather drys up a little, I may need to change brush compound. The
pot measured fine, but I haven't found a volenteer to use the pedal so I
can be sure the travel is being used! but even the first half of the
pedal doesn't do what I thought it did before.
4) Emeter has been useless, never resetting, never accurate, I am gonna
go thru all the programming today and check all the regulator voltages
when the start flashing.
5) lights on same circuit as charger in the house flicker in unison with
reg flashes, Is this normal?
PS the local Nissan dealer is having a Z-car day and car show May the
20th, they asked me to bring in my Z for the show. It is not ready for
show. I will work on the car, maybe I can get it half presentable, but
I would like suggestions on being in a car show. It is hard to see my
motor, I was thinking of driving up onto ramps and laying a mirror on
the ground but that would make it hard to see from the top, So I will
probably make a poster board with pictures. I really should cover the
entire hood opening with plexiglass to keep someone from getting shocked.?
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--- Begin Message ---
When choosing a car for conversion to a EV, and you want it to last for a
long time and be able to standup with the increase weights and stresses, I
look threw all the Parts and Accessories magazines to see if replacement
parts are available for that model you are looking at.
In some cases, you can completely replace every item in a vehicle starting
way back in the 50's up to the present on certain models.
Many of these suppliers will not stock parts for certain years.
I found this out when trying to get a part for my 1977 El Camino. There
is no demand for the 1973 to 1977 models. If I have choosen the 1978 model,
I could have replace every sheet metal panel with carbon fiber panels and
had a ground effects with rear wrap and space frame. This is the items that
funny cars are made out of.
The total weight of the EV with batteries would have been only 2600 lbs.
Here is some source of supply to see if they are for your vehicle.
PST Performance Suspension Technology www.p-s-t.com
Air Ride Technologies www.ridetech.com
Mark Williams Enterprises www.markwilliams.com
National Parts Depot www.npdlink.com
JEG's High Performance www.jegs.com
Summit Racing Equipment www.SummitRacing.com
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 8:56 AM
Subject: 1980 Plymouth : Plymouth TC3 Jet Electric Car Item number:
4631155544
> On e-bay. Starting at $1500. I used to have one. Not too bad for a
> starter
> car, but I'd change to a higher power controller.
>
> Steve
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Jeff,
I had the same problem when I try to start up my EV with a New Zilla.
At first I was turning the ignition key from off to ignition to start with
out waiting a second at the ignition position, to get the two green status
lites on my dash.
I than tried again and waited at the ignition position for a second for the
status lites and than to the start, but it took a long time and then got a
red status lite on the hairball.
Contact Otmar, and he said to check the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's).
Check to see if you got a code 1141, 1132, 1131 and a non-fault code no
1312. Clear them out and try again.
My unit still did not work, then Otmar told be check the ampere to the
contactor coil and the inductive kick by lifting up the No. 6 wire from the
Hairball to the main contactor. It had about 1/4 inch long spark.
I have a large CableForm contactor that takes about 5 amps to drive. This
inductive kick from the contactor coil is too large for the drivers in the
hairball which took out the driver circuit.
Otmar replace the hairball for me, and sent me a suppression diode to go
across the coil contacts on the main contactor. I also install a Square D
glass plug in 12 volt at 10 amp rating relay, where the hair ball drives
this relay which is now only 0.1 amp which turns on 12 volt ignition power
to the contactor.
The suppression diode which you can mount in any direction across the coil,
is a Number NTE-4933 or equal for a 12 volt coil.
I now can turn to the ignition position, the status lites come on and then
to the start which the contactors now come right on.
But first check you trouble codes first, clear them out. One time I had the
low voltage and high voltage change on me for some reason and I had change
the voltages. E-mail the status to Otmar if this does not solve the
problems.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 9:47 AM
Subject: Some problems to solve
> I have a few problems to solve in my EV
>
> 1) it takes minimum of 6 and sometimes 8 seconds (me counting
> 1001,1002..) For the zilla 1K to precharge from a 288V nominal pack
> before it will pull in the main contactor and letting go to soon is a
> red light event requireing shutting off and tring again. I have a dc-dc
> converter backed up with a orbital so my 12 V is more like a very stiff
> 13.5V . The zilla charges the caps off the main pack, correct? the 12V
> is just for control?
> Is this normal? I don't remember it taking so long before my major
> EVent. Is this settable, it is embarassing to sit there, wait for the
> vacuum pump to stop, hold in clutch and turn key for 7 seconds only to
> turn it off and do it all over again sometimes. (frustrating and bad EV
> image) This is the most difficult to handle.
>
> 2) Charger no longer lights the blue LED. It's acceptance voltage is set
> for 350 (14.7*24 would be 354) and the regs come on flashing, the
> charger output switches on and off rapidly unless I go turn down the
> current control and then I can't put more than 1 amp into the pack and
> the voltage with the green led's flashing about 1/sec. Voltage just
> hangs at 340 while 1 amp goes into pack, Is this 1 amp just going into
> heating? It seems as if the max bypass current of the regs is preventing
> the charger from pushing hard enough and it is just a push. My DC-DC
> converter is always connected to the pack, could that be the problem?
> It seemed to show up when the weather got colder...
>
> 3) Acceleration is definitly less than before the EVent. How much does
> a darker black, kinda powdery comm resist vs a nice smooth light brown
> comm? I will double check my voltage limits in the zilla today and the
> throttle position reading, and check it again in a week when(hopefully)
> the weather drys up a little, I may need to change brush compound. The
> pot measured fine, but I haven't found a volenteer to use the pedal so I
> can be sure the travel is being used! but even the first half of the
> pedal doesn't do what I thought it did before.
>
> 4) Emeter has been useless, never resetting, never accurate, I am gonna
> go thru all the programming today and check all the regulator voltages
> when the start flashing.
>
> 5) lights on same circuit as charger in the house flicker in unison with
> reg flashes, Is this normal?
>
> PS the local Nissan dealer is having a Z-car day and car show May the
> 20th, they asked me to bring in my Z for the show. It is not ready for
> show. I will work on the car, maybe I can get it half presentable, but
> I would like suggestions on being in a car show. It is hard to see my
> motor, I was thinking of driving up onto ramps and laying a mirror on
> the ground but that would make it hard to see from the top, So I will
> probably make a poster board with pictures. I really should cover the
> entire hood opening with plexiglass to keep someone from getting shocked.?
>
>
>
>
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Hello to All,
I am new to EV's and am purchasing a used one. I
noticed that David is
in Akron. I'm in the Cleveland area. Are there more
people or a group
around here?
Rod Hower wrote:
Michael,
I also live in Akron, about 4 miles from Davids house.
Myers Motors is located just outside Akron in
Tallmadge.
Don't forget famous EVer Robert 'Bob' Salem and his feisty quick VW
Rabbit pickup....runs 14s! Bob hails from Columbus, Ohio. I think that's
about 130 miles or so from you, but it might be a fun trip to make some
time to see a really nice and powerful EV. I also think Dave Erb lives
in Columbus, too. Dave and I met over the EV racing when he lived in
Phoenix back in '96, and he's extremely knowledgeable in all things EV.
Dave and Bob will be bringing the Rabbit truck to the High Voltage
Nationals next month in May, so that's yet another fast EV to amaze
folks at the races.
See Ya.....John Wayland
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Additional info and questions
The charger has hit 350 Volts but the timer led came on and went right
back off, Changeing s3-4 to latch on timer and turned off charger and
restarted now blue light not come on at all. When does the charger
equalize, or I am suppose to flip a dip switch once a week.
The emeter won't reset even though I am staring at > charged voltage
and < charged current. can the rapid cycling of the charger because of
the regs be read as > 1 amp even though the display shows .5 amp?
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On Apr 15, 2006, at 4:25 PM, David (Battery Boy) Hawkins wrote:
I've been wanting to post this question for about a month or so now. As
I've posted before, I've needed batteries for the truck for months now,
having put 20k plus miles on the old pack, but my supplier quoted me
$120
each for Trojan T-145's, when just two years ago October I paid $80
each!
Lead prices went for a ride. It seems to have peaked in February around
60% higher than 6 months earlier. For the year (April '05 to April '06)
its only up around 20%.
Paul G.
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Can't contain myself with excitement !! My Mails to the folks at the
The Seattle International Film Festival - I think have paid OFF......
( although I only had a minor role. The WONDERFUL film and GLOWING
reviews did the Rest... SEATTLE IS GOING TO AIR " WHO KILLED THE
ELECTRIC CAR !!!"
Here is a copy of the news that came in this morning from the Producers.
__________________________________________________________________________
April 2006
Here is the latest news on "Who Killed the Electric Car?" Thanks for
your enthusiasm and patience (and sorry if this reaches you twice)...
The 2006 Sundance Film Festival was a blast. We showed an early cut of
the film to sell out crowds. Although we weren't showing the film for
official reviews, we got some early buzz. New York Times critic A.O.
Scott wrote that our screening was "one of the most passionate" he'd
ever seen at Sundance. (To read the article go to
http://whokilledtheelectriccar.com and click on "press"). And the
online magazine GRIST us a nice nod too. Nearly 1000 people saw this
early edition including a large group of high school students. We
listened to feedback, met lots of interesting fired-up audience members,
answered questions, and enjoyed stepping out of the edit room into the
theater.
The big news is that Sony Pictures Classics gave us an official release
date : June 28th, 2006! Sony is working on how a roll-out will work in
major markets. Your help in getting the word out will be vital around
the release.
In the meantime, we've been accepted to some top rated film festivals
including San Francisco, Tribeca, Mountain Film and Seattle.
2006 film festival screenings (as of 4/10/06):
1) San Francisco Film Festival (April 21-22) http://fest06.sffs.org/
2) USA Film Festival, Dallas (April 29)
3) Tribeca Film Festival, New York City (May 2, 4, 5, and 6)
http://www.tribecafilmfestival.org/
4) Mountain Film Festival, Telluride, Co (tentative: May 28)
5) SEATTLE FILM FESTIVAL (tentative: June 9) <<<< <<<<<< <<<< <<< <<<
6) Atlanta Film Festival (tentative: June 11)
US PREMIERE: JUNE 28, 2006
This is all moving very fast. Check the website in the coming weeks for
more announcements as we get closer.
As before, thank you in advance for your support. Your efforts to
promote the film (especially on its opening weekends) will make a big
difference in getting this film to wider audience.
Best regards ,
Chris and all of us at "Who Killed the Electric Car"
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
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Hello,
I am all ready to install one of the motor speed sensors shown on
Otmar's web site, cafeelectric.com, but I tried emailing Otmar to find
out about ordering one and he hasn't responded in several days. Does
anyone know how I can order one of these, or if there is another source?
Thanks,
Nick
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Anybody remember the link to Lee's half-pack battery comparator circuit that
uses three LEDs and two resistors? I thought I'd saved a reference to it,
but not can't find it. Thanks.
Bill Dennis
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Nick wrote:
> Does
> anyone know how I can order one of these, or if there is another source?
Here:
http://www.evsource.com/tls_speedsensor.php
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In Pep Boys, the headlight replacement bulbs say: 65W/55W. Does this mean
that low beams take 55W and high beams take 65W, or does it mean that low
beams take 55W, and high beams draw a combined 120W? Thanks.
Bill Dennis
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How do you accurately measure the footprint?
Jack the tire off the ground and wipe it with a damp cloth. Drop the jack,
raise it again, and measure the wet spot :)
Adrian
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So what do they plan to do with this film in the long term? AKA, how
will I ever get to see this film?
DVD release? Get a TV network to air it?(I've only got ~600 channels
and nothing good to watch..) Sell it online for a nominal fee?(I've
only got a 9 Mbps cable modem...)
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I'm not motor expert, but I tried that to bench test a motor after frying a
controller. It only made a big spark and resulted in no motor rotation when I
tried making it a series motor so don't try that.
The controller's in GEM's is a IC3645SH7R353T1 or T2 for the last two digits
depending on the year. So if it's a different controller the function numbers
may be different. I've found the best way to figure out the best settings with
the GE sep ex controllers is just to play and figure out what works best. There
seems to even be differences between different cars in what works well for one
and doesn't for another. It's wierd, but keep playing with the settings.
Rick
Dale Curren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
** Reply to message from Ricky Suiter on Sat, 15 Apr
2006 11:17:50 -0700 (PDT)
Thanks for the reply. I beleive the controller is from a GEM or more likely a
forklift. The manual says forklift. The whole thing is so confusing, I'm
ready to replace it with something else. An Altrax maybe. Then put a jumper
between the armature terminal and the field terminal to make it a series motor.
Do you have any experience with that?
> Is this on a GEM? Be careful and change it in little increments at a time, but
> turning this up a tad will help get some more RPM's out of the motor. The
> stock
> setting should be 43, I don't knwo if I'd go much beyone maybe 45 here. I will
> say this though, the professional reprogrammers do not change this setting.
> Turning #7, the min field current, down will gain you the most. If this is a
> GEM with the stock motor try 75 for #7, I'd be hesitant to go any lower. 72
> and
> maybe 70 can be used if it's the aftermarket motor. I was told this is a motor
> life issue more than anything. Function 7 is what allows more motor rpm's.
>
> http://www.evtrader.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=75&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
>
> Dale Curren wrote:
> Hello Everyone, Newby here,
>
> The following is a quote from my controller manual.
> It has a setting that is not clear to me.
> This is controlling a shunt motor. What does it mean by "START" ?
> Does it mean that field weakening starts to gradually kick in at some point?
> Or, as the next sentence implies, at some point all FW is fully in effect?
> It seems contradictory to me.
>
>
>
> FUNCTION 24 FIELD WEAKENING START (or MOTOR KNEE POINT)
>
> This function allows for setting the armature current at
> which minimum field current will be achieved.
> Range 0 to 350 Amps
> Setting 0 to 255
> Resolution 1.625 per set unit
> Example: Setting of 26 = 42 amps.
>
> Dale Curren
>
>
>
>
> Later,
> Ricky
> 02 Insight
> 92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
> Glendale, AZ USA
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
> countries) for 2¢/min or less.
Dale Curren
---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates
starting at 1¢/min.
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55Watt low, 65 watts high.... or 120 watts if you light both filaments at the
same time.
Bill Dennis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: In Pep Boys, the headlight replacement
bulbs say: 65W/55W. Does this mean
that low beams take 55W and high beams take 65W, or does it mean that low
beams take 55W, and high beams draw a combined 120W? Thanks.
Bill Dennis
---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates
starting at 1¢/min.
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Hello Jeff,
If you are using MK2 regulators, you must keep the the dip switches 1, 2,
and 3 on for the timer to work.
No. 4 should be on when using a MK2 regulator.
No. 5 enable the LowBatt signal circuitry.
No. 6 sets the high equalize setting.
Therefore you can keep switches 1 to 5 on all the time when using MK2
regulators.
Turning on 6 sets the equalize setting which raises the regs up 1.5 volts.
No. 7 when on, sets instant time out at voltage regulation.
No. 8 when on, the timer resets when the voltage is below a set point.
If you do not have a manual on this data, you can download additional data
at www.manzanitamicro.com.
I have only the #1 dip switch on in my PFC-50. I use a completely different
type of balance charging. Rich sent me one MK2 Reg., so I can see were I
can install it.
It would not fit anywhere. No room on top of the batteries, because the
regulator would be on the fill caps or on the post connections and could not
shut the battery covers. There was only a 1/2 inch of space all around the
PFC-50 in the battery charger compartment, so that did not work.
The only other place is to hang them off the back bumper, which is not a
good ideal.
I can see that they would work good on a seal battery that would be about 2
inches shorter in height than what my is. Can install them in a chassis box
setting on top of the batteries.
I balance charge every six months by using a smart charger that can charge
each 6 volt battery, that indicates, charge ampere, voltage, and percentage
of charge in digital readouts.
So far after 4 years, all 30 batteries are still inwith 0.01 to 0.02 volt of
each other.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 11:30 AM
Subject: Some problems to solve
> Additional info and questions
>
> The charger has hit 350 Volts but the timer led came on and went right
> back off, Changeing s3-4 to latch on timer and turned off charger and
> restarted now blue light not come on at all. When does the charger
> equalize, or I am suppose to flip a dip switch once a week.
> The emeter won't reset even though I am staring at > charged voltage
> and < charged current. can the rapid cycling of the charger because of
> the regs be read as > 1 amp even though the display shows .5 amp?
>
>
>
>
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