EV Digest 5466

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) RE: Minimum Power
        by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) RE: Suitable Range Extending Alternator for Trailer Power Supply
        by "David Sharpe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) The Delta-Q and PFC are both very capable chargers...
        by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) RE: Minimum Power
        by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) US Electricar weight
        by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: [Hybrid] Honda to put Insight powertrain in new Fit/Jazz
        by nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: DC Regen
        by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Welding on WarP 9 Motor Housing
        by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: [Hybrid] Honda to put Insight powertrain in new Fit/Jazz
        by "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) RE: Plug-In Hybrid forum this Saturday in PT
        by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Off to the Races
        by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: Welding on WarP 9 Motor Housing
        by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: Off to the Races
        by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Re: Off to the Races
        by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: Need Advanced motor & adapter for '86 VW
        by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) PFC and Breakers
        by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Welding on WarP 9 Motor Housing
        by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Re: [Hybrid] Honda to put Insight powertrain in new Fit/Jazz
        by nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Re: Motor Blowers - is this acceptable?
        by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Re: [Hybrid] Honda to put Insight powertrain in new Fit/Jazz
        by "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: DC-DC converters
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Re: Welding on WarP 9 Motor Housing
        by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Electric Wheels Grand opening
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Stefan,

At 36 or even 48V you will not be able to "snap" a transmission
unless it is not an adequate one to begin with.
To prove this, I take my batteries: 110Ah 12V (71 lbs) which are
rated for 720A CCA, which means that they can deliver at least 720A
(when warm they should do closer to 1000A) at 8V for 30 seconds.
This is somewhere between 5.6 and 8 kW per battery, so even with
4 batteries you will not be able to get much more than 40 hp total.
That should be no problem as I would expect that the car's ICE
was able to deliver a comparable power or more.

Regards,

Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water    IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:   +1 408 542 5225     VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax:   +1 408 731 3675     eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks   eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further  http://www.proxim.com


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Stefan Peters
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 5:55 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Minimum Power


Cor van de Water wrote:
> Hi Stefan,
>
> My S-10 truck (5080 lbs with me on board) and AC drive
> (slightly more efficient than DC but not by much) needs
> about 20 kWh for a constant 60 MPH on a flat freeway (101)
>
> So your vehicle that weighs less than 1/2 and drives at 2/3
> of the speed should be able to do that continuous with less
> than 1/3 of the power, in other words: your first assumption
> is very likely to give you what you expect, while the second
> should be able to reach the speed, but acceleration may be
> unaccepable unless allowing more current. 36V may not be
> sufficient, but it also depends on the current.
> One way to find out is to build it and improve it from there
> like your plan already was.
> To avoid buying the wrong controller you can buy the 4 batteries
> and first install only 3 (you will need the 4th later anyway)
> and use the principle of contactor on/off for a test of max
> acceleration and speed.
> That should give you the answers if you want a 36V controller
> or 48V.
>
> Success,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water    IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel:   +1 408 542 5225     VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax:   +1 408 731 3675     eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks   eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> Take your network further  http://www.proxim.com
>
>   

Spot on advice, thanks!

So the "shopping list" for a prelim test would be:

- 4 batts
- appropriate contactor + fuse/breaker
- some way to measure battery current (shunt + accurate multimeter?)
- wiring
- big red button  :-)

Should I throw some (variable would be nice) resistance in there? 
Suggestion on easy, safe way of doing that? The motor I have is very 
"torquey", wouldn't want to snap anything...

~ Peanut Gallery ~

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes I think it is. My earlier note about my experience with these self
excited m/cs will indicate my dissatisfaction with them. There is likely to
be 1000s of uFs of capacitors needed for a 10kW rated IM. I have a lathe &
milling machine but no knowledge of using high strength PMs though. David

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lee Hart
Sent: Wednesday, 10 May 2006 12:48 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Suitable Range Extending Alternator for Trailer Power Supply

David Sharpe wrote:
> My next approach, there being no affordable PM alternators, is to
> convert a three phase squirrel cage IM to PM by replacing the rotor
> with one with rare earth (perhaps) magnets attached to a suitable
> rotor either by removing the bars & laminations or making a new
> rotor.

You could, but this is a lot of precision machine shop work. It would
gain you perhaps 10% in efficiency over an induction generator. Is that
worth it?
-- 
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roger Stockton wrote:
> Rich Rudman wrote: 

I'd just like to say that I'm very pleased with BOTH the Delta-Q and
PFC chargers.  Each is a fine product with impeccable fit and finish.
Both of them do a great job satisfying the needs of their target
audiences.  The Delta-Q is more than capable of performing the task
of nightly charging an EV/PHEV pack.  Likewise the PFC-30 is doing
a great job playing the roll of DC-DC in this new Hybrid-Pack config.
By all means, feel free to continue your gentle ribbing, but realize
that both of you have equally reliable and robust products in my book.

Kudos to all of you here at the EVDL for making possible the things
which we are now doing with our PHEV conversions, without you and your
support I (personally) would not be capable of pulling off any of it.
Of course many thanks to CalCars who also continues to play a major
roll in these efforts and still leads the way in Prius PHEV conversions.

L8r
 Ryan

ps. Yes we may have discharged the pack more than we would have liked
during our Monday outing leading to the slower than expected recovery
& recharge, though as has been pointed out this was not the fault of the
charger, but our own for having not kept closer watch over the pack.
.oO( We should have known better and will not let it happen again.  )
.oO( BTW. In the end we put 3.73kWh back into the pack, more #s L8r )

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Of course,
thanks for catching it, even though the context should 
leave no other interpretation than my stupid typo.

Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water    IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:   +1 408 542 5225     VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax:   +1 408 731 3675     eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks   eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further  http://www.proxim.com


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Victor Tikhonov
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 8:51 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Minimum Power


Cor van de Water wrote:
> Hi Stefan,
> 
> My S-10 truck (5080 lbs with me on board) and AC drive
> (slightly more efficient than DC but not by much) needs
> about 20 kWh for a constant 60 MPH on a flat freeway (101)

Unit watcher: you meant 20 kW, did you?

Victor

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I checked the door jamb of my US Electricar and
noticed that the weight rating was changed from 
the original S-10 factory spec (4600 lbs GVWR):
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating:    5400 lbs
Gross Axle Weight Rating Front: 2500 lbs
Gross Axle Weight Rating Rear:  2900 lbs

So even though I have a pack that is heavier than normal,
my vehicle is actually 520 lbs under the max rating,
though that means when carrying 3 in the cabin it is at
its rating, even without further cargo...
(Original payload spec'ed at 1715 lbs)

Regards,

Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water    IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:   +1 408 542 5225     VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax:   +1 408 731 3675     eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks   eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further  http://www.proxim.com


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Cor van de Water
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 4:08 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uselectricar] US Electricar weight, was: two on Ebay


Mike,

Tell me what you want to do with TWO trucks with bad batteries ;-)

Anyway - my guess of 5000 lbs is too high, I finally got around to
make a little detour and drive my car onto the scale at the Sunnyvale
garbage drop-off place (SMART center) so guess what?

With yours truely onboard (plus laptop and a few tools) the weight
of my S-10 is 5080 lbs.
Without me and my stuff the weight is about 4880 lbs and since my pack
is about 1850 lbs (26x 110 Ah 12V) the weight without batteries is
3030 lbs.
(This includes a very serious 3-phase inductance under the hood, intended
for the 20 kW charger/inverter.)

So the S-10 on Ebay can never be 6000 lbs or his scale is broken, as the
70 Ah batteries are lighter than mine.

I also weighed the rear axle alone (still with me in the car): 2680 lbs.
To remove my weight and my stuff I probably need to subtract 80 lbs from
the rear and 120 lbs from the front (cabin position more towards the front)
so the curb weight is likely:
4880 lbs total
2280 lbs front
2600 lbs rear

Note that I have an extra battery box >behind< the rear axle, so this
effectively reduces the front weight by a few pounds and add at least
300 lbs to the rear. (4x 71 lbs battery + box + front weight reduction)

In other words: normal US Electricar trucks have almost perfect 50/50
front/rear weight, while mine is slightly heavier in the rear, although
with me onboard (and there is always a driver when its on the road ;-)
the weight is still 47/53 (2400/2680)

Regards,

Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water    IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:   +1 408 542 5225     VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax:   +1 408 731 3675     eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks   eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further  http://www.proxim.com


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Mike Phillips
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 1:35 PM
To: Cor van de Water
Subject: Re: US Electricar on Ebay, in Glendale, AZ.


Here's another USE Truck on Ebay. 4638493123

I know I'm tempted ;)

Mike



--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Told you the owner is clueless ;-)
> 
> Serious - I doubt that this truck will sell for more
> than $5000 (one dollar per pound) as the owners have
> messed it up a bit too badly for a clean sale.
> 
> It sure is a far cry from a clean RAV4 EV with new NiMH pack!
> 
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water    IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel:   +1 408 542 5225     VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax:   +1 408 731 3675     eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks   eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> Take your network further  http://www.proxim.com
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Mike Phillips
> Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 7:56 AM
> To: Cor van de Water
> Subject: Re: US Electricar on Ebay, in Glendale, AZ.
> 
> 
> 6000 lbs??? Say what?? Cor, we need to find a scale!
> 
> I've played with the top speed constant, so the redline can be
> changed, so maybe it does 80mph. In stock form it will sputter up to
> 75mph. Might be bit hard on the motor though at 80mph.
> 
> With gas prices at $3.25 around here for regular, it will be
> interesting to see how much is sells for.
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Cor van de Water <ev@> wrote:
> >
> > Looks like it's in decent shape, even though the
> > seller is a bit clueless: I count 26 batteries (312V)
> > which are more than likely bad at this moment and no
> > way it is ever going to do 80 MPH (redline is 72) or
> > 70 miles per charge on 70 Ah of batteries.
> > But for the price it is a very interesting deal,
> > including built-in Emeter and 3 chargers, two of
> > which Magnechargers!
> > 
> > Beats me why someone would shave doorhandles on a truck,
> > maybe on a racing 2-seater it would make a difference,
> > but on a truck?
> > What's next? Carbon-fiber hood?
> > Kind of putting deep dish rims on your garden tractor
> > or rust-bucket-daily-driver-beater, but I digress.
> > 
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ4638014037QQrdZ1
> > 
> > Cor van de Water
> > Systems Architect
> > Email: CWater@   Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> > Skype: cor_van_de_water    IM: cor_van_de_water@
> > Tel:   +1 408 542 5225     VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> > Fax:   +1 408 731 3675     eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> > Proxim Wireless Networks   eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> > Take your network further  http://www.proxim.com
> >
>







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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David,

It's interesting that you were getting 39mpg for figures from Honda? I managed nearly 52 on the freeway between Bristol and Reading (about 70 miles) when we had one as a hire car while our Prelude was being serviced.

It's great for us as we're into power kiting and the seats fold right down. And if they are doing it as a hybrid in a few years time does anyone thing they'll be any Plug in hacks???

Regards

Nikki


On May 10, 2006, at 12:13 AM, Dave Davidson wrote:

I hope this is right. I read somewhere that Honda was going to use a larger engine for the Fit hybrid than in the Insight, and that the hybrid is due here around April 2007. The Fit here has a larger engine than in Europe.

The Fit is a larger car than I had imagined. As I recall, it gets about 32 or 33 mpg (city) and 38 or 39 mpg (highway). I would hope the hybrid version would do better than the 50s. It's been a few days since I stopped at Honda to see one. I can fit in it comfortably (6 ft 3 in at 230 lbs).

Although Honda is still making the Insight, dealers here (Baltimore, MD) don't stock it, so a buyer must special order one sight unseen. Don't know how long it would take to get it. No wonder they aren't selling many.

The Fit would also make a fantastic glider. I believe better than the Scion Xb that AC Propulsion was considering.

Dave

----Original Message Follows----
From: "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: [Hybrid] Honda to put Insight powertrain in new Fit/Jazz
Date: Tue, 9 May 2006 09:41:07 -0500

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2006/05/honda_fit_hybri.php

Honda Fit Hybrid: Mid-2007, Hybrid CR-V: Late 2006
May 5, 2006 03:14 PM - Michael G. Richard, near Ottawa


Bradley Berman, the editor of HybridCars.com (you can see a video
interview with him at the New York Auto Show), has received
confirmation from an anonymous industry insider that Honda will
produce a hybrid version of the Fit (also known as the Honda Jazz - we
wrote about the possibility of a hybrid version a couple of months
ago). It is scheduled for release in mid-2007.

The insider said:

If you take the measurement from the wheel hub to the wheel hub of the
Fit and the Insight, they are the same to the millimeter. The Fit is
going to get the Insight engine. It's already a proven powertrain. It
will probably get fuel economy in the low to mid-50s.


According to the same source, Honda will probably continue to make the
Insight hybrid even though sales are very slow (less than 100 per
month) for the bragging right of having the most fuel efficient hybrid
(though it's arguable that the Toyota Prius is relatively more
efficient if you consider that it is heavier, roomier, more powerful
and doesn't use as much expensive aluminum to reduce weight).



In the interview, HybridCars.com learned that Honda would also release
a hybrid version of its CR-V mini-SUV [pictured above] in late 2006.
Honda has not publicly confirmed its plans for hybrid versions of the
Fit or CR-V. [...] Even with the Fit's hybrid premium, its price will
beat out the Civic Hybrid by approximately $5,000 and a Prius by
$7,000 or more. The gas-only Fit is powered by a 109-horsepower
1.5-liter, four-cylinder VTEC engine. The hybrid version. according to
the HybridCars.com interview, will utilize a 1.0-liter engine.


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 3:44 PM -0500 5/9/06, Lee Hart wrote:
....

I just had an up-close look at an EVcort, and it is indeed nicely done.
But this one isn't running. Was working, then it just "cut out" while
driving according to the owner. Everything is boxed up so tightly that
it is hard to probe anything, and there are no schematics. Can anyone
who has one help?

I got a few docs digitally from a very helpful person (who's name I'm forgetting at the moment). FWIW here is my EvCort file, it's 3mb: http://www.cafeelectric.com/temp/EVcort%20Soleq%20files.zip

I also still have a paper copy of the users manual binder, but where that is since my move is a bit uncertain. Let me know if you need it and I can call up the search party. :)
--
-Otmar-

http://www.CafeElectric.com/
The Zilla factory has moved to Corvallis Oregon.
Now accepting resumes. Please see:
http://www.cafeelectric.com/jobs.html

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've read several threads that talked about the downsides to welding
mounting tabs the motor housing.  However for the sake of ease and
aesthetics I've decided to go ahead and weld two tabs on each side of my
motor housing that will bolt up to the existing motor mounts.  The existing
motor mounts are in the perfect location.  I discussed briefly with my
vendor who said it would be OK. My query is if its OK to weld on the motor
housing without taking the guts out.  I would be putting two 1-1/2" long
vertical beads on each side of the motor.  The welder is a Lincoln wirefeed
using flux core wire. The WarP 9 housing is pretty thick and could probably
sink a fair amount of heat.  I just don't know exactly what would be in
contact directly inside the housing and if it would cause spot burns on
stuff inside.

Of course I would appropriately cover the rest of the motor to prevent slag
from falling into the vent ports :-O

Also, anyone know the exact color match for the WarP red they put on those
things.  The Ford Red has a slight orange'ish tint.

Mike
Anchorage, AK.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 5/10/06, nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
David,

It's interesting that you were getting 39mpg for figures from Honda?
I managed nearly 52 on the freeway between Bristol and Reading (about
70 miles) when we had one as a hire car while our Prelude was being
serviced.

Remember that US gallons are 83% of the size of UK ones, so in US
terms you were getting 42 MPG I think.

Also, the drive cycles used by manufacturers to demonstrate mileage
are supposed to represent average driving and conditions.  If you're
driving freely at a constant (and moderate) speed, you probably will
do better.

The hybrid version should get better MPG if they use the lean-burn
engine, improve the aerodynamic details, and implement auto-stop.

It's great for us as we're into power kiting and the seats fold right
down. And if they are doing it as a hybrid in a few years time does
anyone thing they'll be any Plug in hacks???

Try the Insight forum, people are grid charging it and adding
additional batteries to increase the MPG.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joel Hacker wrote: 

> Can you please explain your statement of how
> Rudman's PFC30 would burn up the battery pack
> without regs if the Prius Battery Pack has its
> own BMS and regs/balancers for each battery?

No problem: there are 2 battery packs in Ryan's PHEV Prius; the stock
Prius NiMH pack, and a 20Ah VRLA AGM pack.

Rich has described using his PFC30 as a DC/DC to pump current from the
"big" AGM pack into the NiMH pack; this should be no problem as the
Prius pack has its own BMS.

Rich has suggested that the next step is to provide contactors to allow
the PFC30 to be used to recharge the AGM pack from the grid while the
vehicle is parked.  The AGM pack does not have regs or BMS, and Rich is
fully aware that his charger will kill the pack prematurely if used to
charge this pack without installing regs on it.  My understanding is
that Calcars has already tried a PFCxx without regs and proved this for
themselves.

The Delta-Q charger that was installed by Calcars is specifically
configured for charging a string of AGMs without regs.  I am at a loss
to explain the behaviour Rich has reported for this unit as my test
results confirm that the algorithm works.  Unfortunately, the charger is
only part of the system, and it is possible that there is some
undesirable interaction between it and some other part of the system, or
perhaps that the charger has failed in some way.

Cheers,

Roger.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi EVerybody;

  Off this AM for Chicago land.Got only 1000 miles to go! Hope to go several 
hundred miles today, and roll in at Warfield Electric, first port of call. For 
Fri. Motor factory tour? Factory tours are a lot of fun. See ya there?

   Seeya

   Bob

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 12:10 AM 10/05/06 -0800, Mike wrote:
<snip> My query is if its OK to weld on the motor
housing without taking the guts out.  I would be putting two 1-1/2" long
vertical beads on each side of the motor.  <snip>

G'day Mike

Question is, can your welder deliver lots of amps? The secret to this type of welding is high-power "tacks" of weld - at least 250 to 350A, in order to get plenty of penetration, but keep the weld duration short - like half a second. probably more significant than overheating the fields is the need to not deform the housing tube. Cool the housing down between welds & you'll be fine.

If your welder is too small, the first bit of welding is not penetrating well. By the time your weld pool is formed you have put a fair amount of total energy into the job, a lot more energy than the short, high-power weld.

If your welder is a little undersized, someone near you will likely have a machine suitable, make sure they understand the reason for welding like that. Beer is good currency for small jobs at most welding shops.

Hope this helps.

Regards

[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey All
   
  Wayland and Tim made it to my house late last night.  It's 4:21 and we'll be 
out of here soon.  Unlike Bob we're looking at 2000 miles so hold the door to 
the factor tour would you Bob, lmao.
  Joliet or bust
  Cya all
  Jim Husted
  and a ragged looking Tim and John
  WZ is bushy tailed though, hehehe.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Hi EVerybody;

Off this AM for Chicago land.Got only 1000 miles to go! Hope to go several 
hundred miles today, and roll in at Warfield Electric, first port of call. For 
Fri. Motor factory tour? Factory tours are a lot of fun. See ya there?

Seeya

Bob



                
---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.  Great rates 
starting at 1&cent;/min.

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Husted" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:25 AM
Subject: Re: Off to the Races


> Hey All
>
>   Wayland and Tim made it to my house late last night.  It's 4:21 and
we'll be out of here soon.  Unlike Bob we're looking at 2000 miles so hold
the door to the factor tour would you Bob, lmao.
>   Joliet or bust
>   Cya all
>   Jim Husted
>   and a ragged looking Tim and John
>   WZ is bushy tailed though, hehehe.
>

       Wow! I figgured youse guyz would be in Utah or Nebraska by now? Guess
you have 2 or more pilots/ Only me so I hafta sleep, now an' again.Not 23
anymoore, sigh!

    Seeya

    Bob, LEAVING for real, now!  OHHH! Sunshine peking throu!


> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>   Hi EVerybody;
>
> Off this AM for Chicago land.Got only 1000 miles to go! Hope to go several
hundred miles today, and roll in at Warfield Electric, first port of call.
For Fri. Motor factory tour? Factory tours are a lot of fun. See ya there?
>
> Seeya
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.  Great
rates starting at 1&cent;/min.
>

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Hi Roger,
   While it's possible you may come across someone
selling both for cheap, used, it's more likely you'll
need to order via ElectroAutomotive or KTA Services. 

--- "Roger Daisley @ R J Ranch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Need immediately: 8" Advanced DC motor and adapter
> plate for '86 VW Cabbie.
> New or used.
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 


Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic?  My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too! 
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
                          ____ 
                     __/__|__\ __        
  =D-------/    -  -         \  
                     'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? 
Are you saving any gas for your kids?

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

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Most of the diagrams I see show the battery charger connected to the load
side of the breaker instead of the battery side.  It seems like I've read
comments from Rich that his PFC chargers shouldn't be plugged into AC until
they are connected to the batteries.  If a PFC-30 were connected to the load
side of a breaker, and the breaker tripped or got turned off for some
reason, would the charger be damanged?  If so, is it a good idea to have a
manual link next to the main DC breaker so that whenever it turns off, it
also turns off an AC breaker that powers the PFC?

Thanks.

Bill Dennis

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> I've read several threads that talked about the downsides to welding
> mounting tabs the motor housing.  However for the sake of ease and
> aesthetics I've decided to go ahead and weld two tabs on each side of my
> motor housing that will bolt up to the existing motor mounts.  The
> existing motor mounts are in the perfect location.  I discussed briefly
> with my vendor who said it would be OK. My query is if its OK to weld on
> the motor housing without taking the guts out.  I would be putting two
> 1-1/2" long vertical beads on each side of the motor.  The welder is a
> Lincoln wirefeed using flux core wire. The WarP 9 housing is pretty thick
> and could probably sink a fair amount of heat.  I just don't know exactly
> what would be in contact directly inside the housing and if it would cause
> spot burns on stuff inside.
> 
> Of course I would appropriately cover the rest of the motor to prevent
> slag from falling into the vent ports :-O
> 
> Also, anyone know the exact color match for the WarP red they put on those
> things.  The Ford Red has a slight orange'ish tint.
> 
> Mike
> Anchorage, AK.
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On May 10, 2006, at 10:13 AM, Evan Tuer wrote:

On 5/10/06, nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
David,

It's interesting that you were getting 39mpg for figures from Honda?
I managed nearly 52 on the freeway between Bristol and Reading (about
70 miles) when we had one as a hire car while our Prelude was being
serviced.

Remember that US gallons are 83% of the size of UK ones, so in US
terms you were getting 42 MPG I think.

Ah! Of course Evan! Does it show that I've been having a hectic week? I normally take into account things like that. Silly me!


Also, the drive cycles used by manufacturers to demonstrate mileage
are supposed to represent average driving and conditions.  If you're
driving freely at a constant (and moderate) speed, you probably will
do better.

Again, taken note of. I suspect that the fact that I am very light footed when I want to also helps. I'm guessing the average quoted takes into account the more lead footed amongst us.


The hybrid version should get better MPG if they use the lean-burn
engine, improve the aerodynamic details, and implement auto-stop.

It's great for us as we're into power kiting and the seats fold right
down. And if they are doing it as a hybrid in a few years time does
anyone thing they'll be any Plug in hacks???

Try the Insight forum, people are grid charging it and adding
additional batteries to increase the MPG.


Roger that. Has anyone here done their own plug-in conversion to a hybrid? I've seen several on the album but wasn't sure if they were self-converted or done using a kit...

Regards

Nikki

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Hello Adrian,

Don't use dryer hose.  The battery fumes will eat holes in it, and you will 
be filling up this space with explosive fumes.  I use a plumbing type PVC 
pipe fittings.  I used the high pressure type, which has a more smoother 45 
and 90 degree sweeps.

I had to replace my steel blade fan with a all plastic type marine type, 
which are use for venting engine compartments in boats.  This fan has a flat 
surface flange, that I could bolt on a 1/4 thick lexan plate.  I hole saw 
this plate for a 2-inch PVC pipe fitting which I glue to with epoxy glue.  I 
than use PVC pipe fittings to plumb out of the EV like you would for a 
exhaust pipe.  I painted the PVC with a black plastic Fusion paint by 
Carlyon.

Connecting a 2 inch hose to this 4 inch diameter fan and did the same type 
of connections to other 6 inch fans, work fine.  I been running this type of 
fan hose connections for 21 years now.

You can get a heavy duty flexible PVC hose that you can get up to 1/4 inch 
thick.  Look's just like a spiral PVC pipe.  You can get hoses from a hose 
suppler which are normally use for the drain systems for motor homes and 
suction pumps.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: Motor Blowers - is this acceptable?


> I mounted a blower under my battery rack using electrical box hangers -
> cool! How about using zip ties to connect a short piece of dryer hose from
> the blower to 1 of the 4 "inlets" under the wire mesh? (I need a 90 degree
> bend from the blower to the motor) Would I leave the remaining inlets
> alone or block them off?
>
>               /----\
>               | /\ |
>               | \/ |
>            |--/    | Blower, air going <---
>          H |------/
>         O
>         S
>         e
>       /--------------\
>       |              |
>       |     Motor    |==
>       |              |
>       \--------------/
>
> Another idea was to use backer rod to make 2 rings on either side of the
> mesh band, then glue a piece of flexible plastic/metal on top of the rods
> to form a toroidal cavity around the wire mesh. Plumb this to the blower
> with flexible hose and call it a day. I could get 3 of the 4 inlets this
> way without too much trouble. All 4 would be tough.
>
>       /-B--R-----------\
>       | B  R           |
>       | B  R  Motor    |==
>       | B  R           |
>       \-B--R-----------/
>
> B = backer rod #1
> R = backer rod #2
>
> I don't have much room around the motor (less than 1" in places), and
> blower positions are limited due to interference with the battery rack, CV
> axles, steering rack, gear shift hardware, and suspension arms!
>
> Any other suggestions?
>
> Adrian
>
> .
>
> 

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On 5/10/06, nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Again, taken note of. I suspect that the fact that I am very light
footed when I want to also helps. I'm guessing the average quoted
takes into account the more lead footed amongst us.

Exactly!   I regularly get better than 90MPG in the Insight (UK),
which is only claimed to do 83 "combined cycle".  That's without any
modifications.

Regards
Evan

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I have a top voltage of 180vdc during charging. I am using a standard IOTA not the 220v version. 144vdc is the pack voltage. So far no problems. Polarity doesn't matter. Just use the neutral & hot wire. Ground is unconnected. I'd go 220 if I had a higher pack voltage. I do have a cutout relay when charging. They are available on ebay. Lawrence Rhodes. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-Iota-55-amp-RV-power-converter-supply_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50073QQitemZ4638417560QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Ebay auction. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Norton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 4:31 AM
Subject: Re: DC-DC converters



On Wed, 10 May 2006 2:29, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
I as well as others are using the IOTA with success. Lawrence Rhodes......

How is it wired in, and what pack voltage are you running?


John F. Norton
via T-Mobile Sidekick

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Hello Mike & Paula,

I had just install a Warp 9 motor in my classic 1977 El Camino that is in 
show car condition.  Everything that is install in this car, has to look 
better than factory.

The Warp 9 motor is a backup replacement when I have my GE 11 in 
maintenance.  I can install the Warp 9 motor to the same mounts that the GE 
11 uses and which a 350 cu.in. uses in the same place on the cross member.

My GE 11 has 1/2 bolt taps in the side of the motor which accepts the same 
engine mounting for a 350 cu.in.  is actually 11-5/8 inch in outside 
diameter.  The Warp 9 is about 9-5/8 OD measuring to the top of the field 
bolts that are on the surface of the motor housing.

These field bolts head are about 1/4 higher than the surface of the motor.

I therefore had a 11-5/8 minus 9-5/8 = 2 inches or 1 inch on both sides of 
the motor to make up, to fit the existing motor mounts.

So, I went to a steel yard and had them cut me a 5 inch length of 10 inch OD 
steel 10 gage tubing which is about 9-3/4 inch inside diameter.  This tubing 
slips over the Warp 9 motor with only 1/16 of a inch over the field bolts.

This leaves a 1/4 inch space from the inside of this 10 inch tube to the 
body of the Warp 9.

So,  I pick up some 1/4 by 1/4 inch square steel rod from the same steel 
yard and had them roll three lengths in a circle, that I could weld to the 
edge and center inside the 10 inch tubing.

I then cut the 10-inch tube in half and cut another 1 inch off the ends.  I 
now have to half sections, that I now weld in the 1/4 by 1/4 inch rods and a 
1 inch by 1/8 by 5 inch tabs to the ends of the two half's.

These now look like a standard clamp shell motor mounted, except its 5 
inches wide and it looks 3/8 inch thick on the sides.  I used four stainless 
steel aircraft bolts to bolt this to the Warp 9.

With this unit clamp to the Warp 9, I now have the diameter of the Warp 9 at 
9-5/8 and the tubing making up another 3/8 inch which I now have 10 inches 
in O.D.

I than welded on a steel bar with tap bolt holes onto this tubing to fit my 
existing motor mounting.

This whole mounting mounting system, was finish and polish to a very smooth 
surface and than painted with stainless steel appliance epoxy paint made by 
Rust-Oleum which requires no primer.

If you want a stainless steel brush look, let the paint dry for 24 hours and 
lightly brush it with a very fine scotch pad only going in one direction. 
Do not rub back and forth.

I also painted the bare aluminum on the Warp 9 to match the stainless steel 
with a very light coat, so the shine of the metal still comes through.

The Warp 9 may have a coating in the inside, that my burn if you weld on it.

Roland




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike & Paula Willmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 2:10 AM
Subject: Welding on WarP 9 Motor Housing


> I've read several threads that talked about the downsides to welding
> mounting tabs the motor housing.  However for the sake of ease and
> aesthetics I've decided to go ahead and weld two tabs on each side of my
> motor housing that will bolt up to the existing motor mounts.  The 
> existing
> motor mounts are in the perfect location.  I discussed briefly with my
> vendor who said it would be OK. My query is if its OK to weld on the motor
> housing without taking the guts out.  I would be putting two 1-1/2" long
> vertical beads on each side of the motor.  The welder is a Lincoln 
> wirefeed
> using flux core wire. The WarP 9 housing is pretty thick and could 
> probably
> sink a fair amount of heat.  I just don't know exactly what would be in
> contact directly inside the housing and if it would cause spot burns on
> stuff inside.
>
> Of course I would appropriately cover the rest of the motor to prevent 
> slag
> from falling into the vent ports :-O
>
> Also, anyone know the exact color match for the WarP red they put on those
> things.  The Ford Red has a slight orange'ish tint.
>
> Mike
> Anchorage, AK.
> > * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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> * If your postings display this message your mail program *
> * is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting  *
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> 

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--- Begin Message --- Message 3 From: "Noel Adams" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Mon May 8, 2006 4:23pm(PDT) Subject: Electric Wheels Grand opening

Electric Wheels in Salem, OR just had their grand opening ceremony. They appear to have just received their first shipment of ZAP Xebra electric vehicles and also sell the E-Ride NEV and California Roadster.

See http://www.electricwheelsinc.com/grandopening.htm

If you look at the pictures you can see a white Xebra Truck that ZAP haven't even announced yet.

Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
Vegetable Oil Car.
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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