EV Digest 5559
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Electric/EV basic knowledge
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: City Range (Was Conversion on eBay)
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Honda to Stop Making Insights
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Ampabout ... ... HOV sticker on a conversion?!?
by bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Honda to Stop Making Insights
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) buildup on battery terminal - why?
by "David McWethy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Trojan T-1275 VS T-875 Batteries
by "Jonathan Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Trojan T-1275 VS T-875 Batteries
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Honda to Stop Making Insights
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: buildup on battery terminal - why?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Electric/EV basic knowledge
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Electric/EV basic knowledge
by "Stefan T. Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Advice for FIL: NEV, Hybrid, or...?
by "Jonathan Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Air Bags: was Re: Honda to Stop Making Insights
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Three questions (was: Announcement of new NEDRA VoltageDivisions)
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Advice for FIL: NEV, Hybrid, or...?
by "Jonathan Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: City Range (Was Conversion on eBay)
by "steve clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: buildup on battery terminal - why?
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Can someone give me the bottom line on batteries?
by Rocky Lear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Can someone give me the bottom line on batteries?
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Can someone give me the bottom line on batteries?
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Microchip software was ...Brueggemann Meter
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: City Range (Was Conversion on eBay)
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: buildup on battery terminal - why?
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) ADC Speed Sensor Mount with Warp9 Tailshaft
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: buildup on battery terminal - why?
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Electric/EV basic knowledge
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re:Current Eliminator Dragster News
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Conversion on eBay
by "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Advance Timing vs Regen
by "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: How Hot Does a Terminal Get? Not very, it shouldn't!
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: Current Eliminator Dragster News
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
33) Re: Conversion on eBay, Batteries an' Stuff
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
34) Scrounging for cheap EV parts
by "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
35) Re: buildup on battery terminal - why?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
> You could get an EE and still not know what some of the people in
this forum
> do.
> I'd turn back, if I were you. Really! STOP reading now. This way lies
> MADNESS.
>
Ya got that right! E.g.-Lee discusses a basic LED circuit as a step up
from a 2-needle meter and the inginiirs have a field day discussing
advanced components for it! I'd never say don't read their posts, just
let your eyes go a little out of focus and the technospeak goes faster!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> At 15MPH you can get a long way :) But seriously, how much range are
> people getting for city driving from their EVs? I always hear the
> highway range quoted. What are people getting in the city?
>
> -Mike
Government-sponsored testing got 90 miles at 45mph from a Ranger EV,
so you can probably get 150 miles, but at what speed?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Don't most 2 seaters have a switch to turn off the airbag to use with a
> carseat? I know my dads truck does.
>
The Ranger EV has a lit key switch in plain sight to do this - should
be the same in the ICE version.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Since my EV was repaired from the floods of the New Year, I have
been enjoying the heck out of my EV. The ride is smooth and quiet
like the day first I got it. I still have some items to work on,
and I hope that the summer days will not be too hot so I can
complete them.
I still need to install a DC2DC and work on pulling the chargers
that died from the salty/sewage flood waters. I have my maintenance
to do since it is the beginning of a new month. My watering last
month took two gallons of distilled water. I attribute this to the
slow over charging from chasing the finishing voltage/pack
temperature.
This weekend should be perfect for watering and checking my battery
connections. I may have to clean, neutralize and re-apply
anti-acid/correction coating. It seems that the spray on stuff just
does not work as long at the grease type you slather on by hand.
The night time temperatures have pretty much settled into a stable
temperature range, so every morning I can climb into an EV with a
fully charged 'happy-pack'. When the weather starts getting hotter
or colder, that will be another story, and I will be chasing the
pack temperatures again to get the correct finishing voltage.
My commute is still 3 miles there, and 3 miles back with usually an
errand run during my hour lunch period of 10 miles. I will have
about three more months of this before things will change. Things
are changing at my work site and my likelyhood of having a job is
tenous.
My current position is not very challenging at all, and barely pays
the rent. But I am happy to schlep-along as long as I a can do my
College courses when I am not needed. But like most Hi-Tech
companies that acquire other companies, they have decided to
consolidate what buildings they use to save money.
The site Exec announced this site is moving to a new bldg the
company bought in Mt. View (about 10+ miles South). That site
already has a person that does my job, so it is not a shoe-in that
I will move with the site. I asked my manager what will happen, and
their response was wait-n-see, while I am in pay-the-rent mode.
In any case, the weekend after the announcement, I did a test run
to the new site to check out the logistics if I drove my EV there
everyday. I got on Hwy 101 and headed South in the right lane at my
usually 55 mph cruising speed. Power was good, Saturday traffic was
light, and I arrived using my typical 2.2 mi/amp-hour drain in 15
minutes. I would have no problem driving there and getting back,
while my pack was healthy (not at the end of its usable cycle
life).
The new site's parking lot was sparse and did not have any outlets
for me to ask permission to pay for using them. Nearby is the older
Mt. View site (opposite corner). I went over there and checked out
what outlets I could find.
There were some in the parking structure. But I fear I would likely
be turned down as the host company does not care about me paying
for the power I would use, alt fuel vehicles, or any other such
non-conforming activity (definitely not like the way it was when I
worked for Hewlett-Packard for 25 years).
I did however acquire an 'eco pass' from the host company. This
lets you ride the local bus system for free. But the bus system
here takes an hour to get to the site and 1.5 hours to get back.
I will use the bus as a back-up plan: drive to the Palo Alto
park-n-ride, take the bus for free to work, and reverse. This would
reduce my cycles on the pack but eat up a lot of my day (too bad
they do not have Wi-Fi on the bus).
All that research is basically an exercise in 'what-if' because it
truly looks like this current position which has let me satisfy the
customer while using what idle time is left toward my BSCS Degree,
is going away as soon as the Redwood City site closes.
A few months from now when the other-shoe-drops, I will either be
offered a similar job, or a job that makes me busy. If the latter,
I will quit. I can find a busy job anytime that will pay a whole
lot more than what I am getting now. The luxury of the current job
is that I get to do school work when they do not need me.
Oh well, being unemployed will have its advantages in the short
term: will be able to take those courses that are not offered
online and are only offered during the middle of the day. I still
have permission to 'plug-in' my EV at my college so that will work
out just fine (healthy pack or aged pack).
I am doing well in my current College course: Database Management,
and plan to achive another 'A' to keep my GPA up. I was hoping I
would be able to complete the next summer06 quarter before I am
unemployed. However it seems none of the courses I need are being
offered in the summer quarter. Researching other nearby Colleges
has not been fruitful for the summer06 quarter either. Fall06
quarter will have what I need but I will likely be unemployed by
then. Time will tell.
Meanwhile, I plan to try to get as many things as I can get done
while I am still employed. Especially those things that will ensure
my EV stays on the road and is reliable transportation.
The good news is all this great warm, non-raining weather has made
my garden bloom, and I am making slow but steady progress toward
getting things done.
At some point, I plan to get myself in position to be able to move
away from Silicon Valley. I will need to live cheaply while I
complete my University courses (which are much more costly than
College courses).
Lastly, one day last week as I left work, driving at a steady slow
speed over the 25 mph speed bumps, a blue Prius with its yellow HOV
stickers a blaze crept out of the parking lot behind me and slowly
followed me.
Generally, those behind me would drive close to try to push you to
go faster. But this Prius with a full passenger load just followed
along as a comfortable distance as if to 'check me out'.
We both drove down the straight away (Seaport Blvd.) catching the
green lights, when I stopped for the red light in the left turn
lane. The Prius pulled in next to me with his windows down. The
driver yelled, "Hey how did YOU get a HOV sticker for a
non-production EV?"
I turned to him and made eye contact, but before I could speak he
said, "A pure electric Blazer ... that's pretty cool."
I smiled the EV-grin and said, "Thanks" just before the light
turned green and I made my left-turn.
Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
' ____
~/__|o\__
'@----- @'---(=
. http://geocities.com/brucedp/
. EV List Editor, RE & AFV newswires
. (originator of the above ASCII art)
===== Undo Petroleum Everywhere
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> I wonder what her face would have looked like if she had hit the
steering
> wheel instead of the airbag. I realize there are those few
situations where
> a seemingly minor accident caused the bag to go off. It's easy to
> rationalize that the bag caused more injuries than it prevented, but
I think
> people don't realize just how hard an impact can be, how quickly the
> steering wheel or dash comes at you, or the related neck and belt-burn
> injuries that were prevented by the airbag.
>
I had a coworker who had an accident as a teenager (when cars only had
a lap belt) involving striking her steering wheel with her face (she
said first responders had to "peel her off of it") - lucky it didn't
involve her eyes or facial muscles, but a semicircular scar from
temple to temple along your entire forehead is pretty traumatic!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Out of my 15 8 volt flooded batteries, I have one terminal that develops
battery terminal crud. Why is it that this happens on just one battery?
Dave
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roger,
Are you calling me a cheapskate? ;^> Thanks and thanks for the info on the
T1275. I sit at my computer corrected.
May I ask for some clarification?
You state:
(I happen to know for a fact that the chargers in the GEM cars do *not*
include an algorithm for the large flooded batteries ;^).
Which I believe, based upon your email address. To confirm, are you saying
that the none of the following choices for
910-7200 QuIQ 7212 72V 12A
accommodate the new J150 or the T1275?
9.reserved
8.Concorde 10x Ah AGM (PVX-1080T as an example, 126 [EMAIL PROTECTED])
7.J305 DV/DT CP
6.DEKA 8G31 Gel
5.Trojan 30/31 XHS
4.US Battery USB2200
3.T105 DV/DT CP
2.Trojan T105 tapped
1. Trojan T105
Best regards,
Jonathan Smith
Zivan NG-1
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jonathan Smith wrote:
> Are you calling me a cheapskate? ;^>
Nope (though the label does seem to often apply to us EVers ;^)
Have you got a 6-passenger GEM? Wanna trade for a GEM pickup? ;^>
> May I ask for some clarification?
>
> You state:
>
> > (I happen to know for a fact that the chargers in the GEM
> > cars do *not* include an algorithm for the large flooded
> > batteries ;^).
> >
>
> Which I believe, based upon your email address. To confirm,
> are you saying that the none of the following choices for
>
> 910-7200 QuIQ 7212 72V 12A
>
> accommodate the new J150 or the T1275?
>
> 9.reserved
> 8.Concorde 10x Ah AGM (PVX-1080T as an example, 126 [EMAIL PROTECTED])
> 7.J305 DV/DT CP
> 6.DEKA 8G31 Gel
> 5.Trojan 30/31 XHS
> 4.US Battery USB2200
> 3.T105 DV/DT CP
> 2.Trojan T105 tapped
> 1. Trojan T105
I'm happy to clarify; the charger you identify is *not* a GEM model; it
is a standard (generic) model. It contains algorithms suitable for the
J150/T1275 and for the Trojan flooded 8Vs: alg #1 or #3 work fine for
those.
The charger that is installed on GEM vehicles (and is available through
GEM service) has a completely different algorithm set.
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sorry to break in here, but this thread has drifted entirely off topic. Could
the
participants please take it to private email? Thanks.
David Roden
EV List Assistant Administrator
Mail sent to the posting address may not reach me. Please use the mail
address evadm and the domain name drmm dot net if you wish to reply.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David McWethy wrote:
> Out of my 15 8 volt flooded batteries, I have one terminal that develops
> battery terminal crud. Why is it that this happens on just one battery?
It means the seal between the post and case is leaking. This usually
happens if you put a lot of stress on the post, such as from picking up
the battery by the posts, or tightening the bolts with just one wrench,
or using stiff wires or buss bars.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>> You could get an EE and still not know what some of the people in
>> this forum do. I'd turn back, if I were you. Really! STOP reading now.
>> This way lies MADNESS.
Death to All Spammers wrote:
> Ya got that right! E.g. Lee discusses a basic LED circuit as a step up
> from a 2-needle meter and the inginiirs have a field day discussing
> advanced components for it! I'd never say don't read their posts, just
> let your eyes go a little out of focus and the technospeak goes faster!
(A couple smileys would help when reading the above :-)
Engineers suffer from a peculiar malady colloquially known as Engineer
Disease. Symptoms are the belief that nothing is perfect, everything can
be improved, and there is no such thing as too complicated. Ask an
engineer to change a light bulb, and he'll replace it with an array of
100 LEDs driven by a microcomputer. :-)
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
Engineers suffer from a peculiar malady colloquially known as Engineer
Disease. Symptoms are the belief that nothing is perfect, everything can
be improved, and there is no such thing as too complicated. Ask an
engineer to change a light bulb, and he'll replace it with an array of
100 LEDs driven by a microcomputer. :-)
Sorry, couldn't resist:
http://www.theledlight.com/120-VAC-LEDbulbs.html
~ Peanut Gallery ~
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich,
So, what I am wondering is whether Ryan Fulcher uses a PFC 30 for his HEV ->
PHEV conversion? I know that he chose PbA, although I am unclear if he
combined them with the OEM NiMH or not?
There is discussion at the Seattle EVA wiki about Hybrid Packs
http://www.eaa-phev.org/wiki/Prius_PHEV_Battery_Options
More about the tenth Prius -> Prius Plus conversion in Treehugger Maker
Faire PHEV at YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2sNxWzZZi0&eurl=
Best regards,
Jonathan Smith
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have been studying automotive safety systems as I am trying to design
a car and car company from the ground up.
Airbags in older(5-10 years) american cars deploy too fast, 200 MPH,
engineered for the worst case wreck and for the standard 6 foot 1 175lb
male. The newer cars now have 3 to 5 stages and deploy at speeds
relative to the strength of the impact. The more advanced body computers
also take into account the avg weight on the seat and weather or not the
seat belt is clicked.
This is somewhat voluntary at the moment, but if you want to get a good
safety rateing and therfore and insureable car to sell, you must play
this game.
I wear eyeglasses, one of the problems with an airbags for shorter
people wearing glasses, the lenses can pop out and do damage.
Often the other problem in american cars is that the pedals and steering
are fixed and to reach the pedels, people sit too close to the steering
wheel and at the wrong angle. When I looked into the appropriate
seating position I found I too was pointing the steering wheel at my
face, it felt odd when it was pointing where it was suppose to, the
chest. but now I have gotten use to it. It is near impossible to get the
correct seating position in my car, I am just too far off from 6-1 175lb
male.
I would like to see an improvement in automotive safety. criss-cross
belt, collapsing steering,adjustable pedals,side air curtain, variable
deployment air bags, staged crumple zones and energy re-directers. If
Jeff Gordan can put a race car into the wall at 200mph then get in a
second car for a second race that same day, why are people dieing in
50mph collisions? (other than the traffic is all going the same direction)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi-
NEDRA only records times for the 1/8 mile in classes 96 volts and lower,
how ever most tracks run all vehicles through the 1/4 mile and the time
slip will show the 1/4 mile speed amd time. the jr. dragsters most times
only run 1/8 mile.
F.T.
> [Original Message]
> From: Dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Date: 6/8/2006 7:27:55 AM
> Subject: RE: Three questions (was: Announcement of new NEDRA
VoltageDivisions)
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Sent: Jun 7, 2006 3:12 PM
> >To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu, ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >Subject: RE: Three questions (was: Announcement of new NEDRA Voltage
Divisions)
>
>
> As I understand it, at this time lower voltage classes can only be
offically timed
> for 1/8 mile distances. Can a 36 or 48 etc. etc. volt car be offically
timed for the 1/4 mile?
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Whoops, never mind, the Ryan's Maker Faire pictures tell the story. He
installed a Delta-Q Charger, but in PiPrius pictures, I see the PFC30, so
Prius Blue is the testbed. The MakerFaire pics also show *grey* OEM NiMH
pack, and one of about 20 PbA PHEV batteries and half the rack.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 2:23 PM
Subject: City Range (Was Conversion on eBay)
At 15MPH you can get a long way :)
Yes and over that long discharge you'll get more ah hours , if it will go
15mph on 10 amps , maybe . . I though I saw 60 mile range , . Its a nicly
done conversion ,
But seriously, how much range are
people getting for city driving from their EVs?
I do better on the open road , the start and stopping takes alot of power .
steve clunn
I always hear the
highway range quoted. What are people getting in the city?
-Mike
On 6/8/06, Michaela Merz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Claims to have a range of up to 150 Miles with 20 Trojans 125s. Now - I
don't know if that would even be possible in theory (other then rolling
down hill), but the buyer sure will be in for quite a suprise :( On the
other hand: He is asking 23,000 with 'Reserve Not Met' - I doubt he/she
will be able to sell the truck for that price anyway.
Michaela
> Is the seller on the list?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4647644891
>
> A little rich for me, but I certainly like the paint scheme on that
> expansion
> box for battery space - a little galaxy sitting in the bed!
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You are using an anti-corrosion material on your terminals, aren't you?
For some reason, acid fumes are probably getting to that terminal more than
the others. Perhaps that post is no longer sealed properly (it can happen in
the factory). It can also happen sometimes if the post and terminal aren't
completely clean... or if the terminal has excessive resistance. (I had it
happen to an ICE... turns out the "factory" crimp between the cable and
terminal wasn't making a good connection.)
I'm curious if anyone has tried soldering their terminals and posts. This
obviously isn't good if batts must be swapped out often.
I saw that on an ICE where corrosion was a prob. The mechanic cleaned the
posts and terminals, treated them, then crimped everything into place. He
filed them both even and laid a bead of high-lead solder across the top. 10
years later, when the batt was ready for replacement, a few licks of a file
removed the solder. The solder probably wasn't needed, but he thought that,
should the post corrode again, the solder would provide a low resistance
circuit. It was done for a fleet of trucks... and seemed to extend cranking
power for a year or two extra. I did that w/ my EV... then fried the batts a
few charges later. <g>
----- Original Message -----
From: "David McWethy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 5:01 PM
Subject: buildup on battery terminal - why?
> Out of my 15 8 volt flooded batteries, I have one terminal that develops
> battery terminal crud. Why is it that this happens on just one battery?
>
> Dave
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am a newbie. I need 20 6v's for my electric truck which is 120V. What I want
to know is, can I switch to 15 8V batteries instead and save some weight? I
want to buy good batteries. Basically the best bang for the buck. I know
there's a lot of battery talk on here but I'm having trouble, as a newcomer,
getting to the bottom line.
Rocky
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In general, the lower the voltage, the fatter the
plates.
That means, longer range, and less battery sag, when
you pull Big Amps.
Yes, IF your controller can handle higher volts, and
IF your charger is re-programmable, you can switch to
20 8volters, and go drag racing more or less, or you
can put your 15 batts. in the car, and have the same
voltage, but now less lead, so less range.
Eventually, we will have another chemistry and
remember with laughter having this discussion to how
best go 50 miles per charge.
peace,
--- Rocky Lear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am a newbie. I need 20 6v's for my electric truck
> which is 120V. What I want to know is, can I switch
> to 15 8V batteries instead and save some weight? I
> want to buy good batteries. Basically the best bang
> for the buck. I know there's a lot of battery talk
> on here but I'm having trouble, as a newcomer,
> getting to the bottom line.
>
> Rocky
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> I am a newbie. I need 20 6v's for my electric truck which is 120V.
What I want to know is, can I switch to 15 8V batteries instead and
save some weight? I want to buy good batteries. Basically the best
bang for the buck. I know there's a lot of battery talk on here but
I'm having trouble, as a newcomer, getting to the bottom line.
>
> Rocky
>
It'll work fine, but you'll have 75% of the previous range. The 8V
have thinner plates, so lifespan may not be equal.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Originally, some time way back, I was the one that asked if anyone had built
this meter by Mark Brueggemann.
http://www.qsl.net/k5lxp/ev/evgauge/evgauge.html
So now after all this, I suppose the answer is no. If someone actually
reported they built it, I'm sorry I missed it in the transition to microchip
software. I've ordered the dual movement cross-needle meter from MFJ and
will send a report when I complete it. Although Mark's report at the above
link says it all. The diversion through LED display and Microchip Control
for this type of meter was interesting though.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Peter Shabino
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 9:40 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Microchip software was ...Brueggemann Meter
,
Ok I forgot who started this thread originaly. But, if your still reading
let me know. I found a HC11 dev kit in my basement. Its apx 9 years old but
everything is there (documentation / software) and I don't think I have ever
used this one. It should have a onboard boot loader in the chips EEPROM so
all you need to program it is a serial port from the PC. Let me know if your
insterested.
Later,
Wire
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My 1921 Milburn with 96v 70ah Hawkers does about 30miles at 30mph.
> > At 15MPH you can get a long way :) But seriously, how much range are
> > people getting for city driving from their EVs? I always hear the
> > highway range quoted. What are people getting in the city?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Lee and everyone,
or tightening the bolts with just one wrench,
Will you expound on this? I had to think for a second how to even use
two wrenches when tightening the bolts. I've only ever used one without
thinking this could cause damage. Will you please explain the correct
way to tighten the bolts on terminals to avoid damage? It might save
several of us from causing damage.
I still have lots to learn...
Ryan
--
- EV Source -
Summer Special - Free shipping on all orders over $500!
Includes Zillas, WarP and Impulse Motors, and PFC Chargers
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Those who plan to use the ADC speed sensor with ambitions of driving an
auxiliary pulley on the tail shaft may be interested in this solution. I
posted pics on my EVALBUM page but I won't leave them there indefinitely.
Pull them off if you want them, I'll change them in a couple weeks. I cut
the aluminum plate with a cuttoff wheel on my table saw. Layed out the bolts
with a compass with a steel tip. Used (4 each) 2.125" length of 1/4" steel
tubing to go over the 5/16" X 3" bolts. I have room to mount a pulley as
long as the auxiliary device allows the belt to be routed above and below
the side bolt.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/756
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
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--- Begin Message ---
If you have post mounts then just tightening one side of the clamping bolt
will torque the post itself. If you put a wrench on the square head on the
other side of the bolt and pull the two wrenches together there will be no
net torque on the post. Same deal with lug type posts, use a wrench on both
the head and the nut (of the bolt). Stud mounts have no choice but to use
one torque-wrench on the nut, as that should be the only moving part, and
hopefully the stud was designed to take at least the rated torque (140 in-lb
to 160 in-lb on mine).
:-)
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Ryan Bohm
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 9:11 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: buildup on battery terminal - why?
>Hi Lee and everyone,
> or tightening the bolts with just one wrench,
>
>
>Will you expound on this?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So... how many engineers do you think it took to change that light bulb?
Danny
Stefan T. Peters wrote:
Lee Hart wrote:
Ask an
engineer to change a light bulb, and he'll replace it with an array of
100 LEDs driven by a microcomputer. :-)
Sorry, couldn't resist:
http://www.theledlight.com/120-VAC-LEDbulbs.html
~ Peanut Gallery ~
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dennis,
We have our meeting this Sat, so I'll try and get some people to come up and
see you race. What time do you think you'll be there?
I'll come for sure.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 5:34 AM
Subject: Re:Current Eliminator Dragster News
> The CE will be racing again this weekend on Sat. night at Firebird
> Raceway.Its team firebirds summit race series three.Its a $1000 + to win and
> since my
> average reaction time is better at firebird and the track is close why not
> get a
> few more break in cycles on the new pack of hawkers from Sunbelt Battery.
> Dennis Berube
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Maybe in theory at a steady 20-25 mph with no outside wind,
completely flat terrain, and no stops...
60 miles seems reasonable for 45 mph or so. But the aero on
that truck is crap.
Michaela Merz wrote:
>Claims to have a range of up to 150 Miles with 20
>Trojans 125s. Now - I don't know if that would even be
>possible in theory (other then rolling
>down hill), but the buyer sure will be in for quite a
>suprise :(
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Howdy,
I was curious if it is more efficient to advance the timing 7 degrees or add
regen. I heard that you get a 5% range increase with advancing the timing or
regen. Does anyone have any real world data of kWh used with one method vs the
other? I have a 7" motor with either a series field ring (that I'm running
now) or a SepEx field ring. The 2100 lb Cushman goes up to 5k rpm's at 45mph
but generally travels in the 35-40mph or 4k rpm range. It also has an electric
reverse (about 5mph).
Thanks,
Mark
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Chuck an' EVerybody;
Snip a bit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Perhaps I should've tried recrimping it. Just line up the 2/0
> dies in the same place and let'er rip?
Yeah! Whatthehell? Crimp the Hell out of it! If it works you will know
right away as the car should seem to have a new life WITHOUT the horrendous
voltage drop that you have been living with. If ya can get hold of a
crimping tool? Then maybe clip the terminal off and crimp on a NEW one.
Obviously THIS one has been the big problem, the others are cool? Literally
and figuratively.
It will be nice to have
> my own crimp tool so I don't have to make such an EVent out of
> it. And I think I will saw open that hot end and see what it
> looks like inside - I have never done that - should be a solid
> mass of copper packed right up right against the walls of the lug
> and no discoloration.
>
> When you're out this way sometime, Bob, you'll have to show me
> how you do it (your solder technique)!
]
Sure, it 'taint rocket science. Ya need a HOT torch, ether a plumbers'
setup one acthleline tank or a oxy-Athelene setup. The magic here is enough
heat to flow the solder into the terminal. I have used 3 ought terminals,
which makes the frizzy two ought cables easier to get in the lug, after they
have been dipped in flux.Clamped in the vice you can heat the terminal up
and pool some multin solder in the bottom, so the cable gets dipped as you
insert it. When it is all in, use you're third hand , a buddy can sure be
"handy" here!to hold things streight, as you do with almost ALL soldering!
Flow the solder wire around the edges, to fill up the lug. THIS is where the
sport comes in: too much heat and the solder just wicks up the wire cable,
too little and you will have a cold joint. Soooo ya heat just enough that
the solder melts and fills the "Cup" of the lug. when it looks just right
you cool things off with a wet washcloth, this will wipe the flux drools
away, while things are still hot. The guest bathroom wash cloths work just
fine, while yur Signifivcent Other is shopping<G>!Follow up with a piece of
heat shrink for the Wayland Signiture Finished Look. Pop a " No Co purple
ring , they REALLY do work,over the battery terminal and tighten 'er up.
SHOULD be end of problem??!! YMMV.Car should go like hell, now!
Yeah, hack open the clipped off termminal, see if anything obvious is
wrong?
Seeya
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 6/9/06 4:37:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Subj: Re:Current Eliminator Dragster News
Date: 6/9/06 4:37:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Rush)
Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-to: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Dennis,
We have our meeting this Sat, so I'll try and get some people to come up and
see you race. What time do you think you'll be there?
I'll come for sure.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org >>
Gates open at 5pm Racing starts at about 6:30,if I go all the way it could
end at 3am Sunday Thanks Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: Conversion on eBay
> Maybe in theory at a steady 20-25 mph with no outside wind,
> completely flat terrain, and no stops...
>
> 60 miles seems reasonable for 45 mph or so. But the aero on
> that truck is crap.
>
> Michaela Merz wrote:
>
> >Claims to have a range of up to 150 Miles with 20
> >Trojans 125s. Now - I don't know if that would even be
> >possible in theory (other then rolling
> >down hill), but the buyer sure will be in for quite a
> >suprise :(
>
Hi All;
Yeah! Ya got that right!EVen 60 miles would be darn good, in IDEAL
conditions. Warm day, flat roads, tailwind. NEW well broken in batteries.
Few folks break in new batteries nicely. They start off and run the crap out
of them, til they learn just HOW much juice to expect, then they live with
that. Ya REALLY need to do the first few hundred miles in short trips and
charge cycles, till the batteries break in. THEN you get some decent miles
like 101 out of a 120 volt T 145 Rabbit, with a few snacks at 10 amps during
that jaunt.Living in Illinois or Florida, Long Island, too ,helps. No hills.
I found in LI I could ramble on for hours across the flatlands!IF you can
stay below 100 amps and not be run over?
Dem's the rules. If ya can't live with them, go buy a Prius, or Insight,
the EV an' you won't be happy together.
Dreaming of Better Batteries!
Bob
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--- Begin Message ---
What sites have those here used to find used electric
motors, controllers, and the like?
I've mainly looked around eBay and the EV trading post, but
haven't found what I'm looking for. There was an old
forklift motor on eBay, but I couldn't get specifics as to
its continuous horsepower rating.
I'm currently looking for a used Prestolite motor. I haven't
found any auctions where they have sold, so I don't know
what price to expect for one in working condition. I've been
thinking anywhere from $300 to $900, which is a large
variance simply due to being a guess. Any idea what would be
a fair price for one? Or where to find one for that matter?
Anyone selling a Prestolite? I'm definately willing to buy
one right now, but passed up on the Datsun offered
earlier(don't have room for *another* car!)
Failing a Prestolite, what are some surplus aircraft
starters that have been reliable enough for highway-capable
EVs and had reasonable efficiency? I know exactly where to
look for those, if I only knew *what* to look for. There's
aircraft graveyards waiting to be looted.
Keeping an eye out for a used Curtis with 72-144V
capability, but am not holding my breath and would gladly
use a contactor setup.
Lee regs, modified Bonn charger, 5-speed contactor
controller, a 144V pack of cheap Universal Battery AGMs, and
a motor that could handle this amount of power could
potentially get me a conversion with 0-60 < 15 seconds, 90+
mph top speed, and 40+ miles range for under $2k, if I
scrounge right. Or I could do something similar with 72-96V
of Trojan floodeds for a few hundred dollars less and
greatly reduced performance but with radically improved
safety, an acceptable route. May be able to throw a cheap
used 300W DC-DC converter in the mix if that deal goes
through.
Anything to get that goddamned deathtrap registered, on the
road, and 100% drivable on battery power this summer!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Ryan,
It is best to always use a back up wrench on any bolts or even pipe fittings
when installing. In a standard battery bolt that is used for a battery
clamp, the head is normally a square head that self jams on one end of the
battery clamp. The other end of the battery clamp has clearance for turning
a standard hex nut.
In some cases, you can get a very thin open end ignition type of wrench on
the square head and used a small wall box wrench on the hex nut end.
The standard sizes wrenches may not fit, because of clearance. When I was
using the square head bolts which I could not get a open end wrench on the
head, I would put downward pressure on the battery clamp, by pushing down on
the cable end with one hand while I would tight the hex nut with a very
narrow wall socket using a 1/4 inch socket drive wrench.
I have at one time replace the hex nut with a extended stainless hex nut
made for battery clamps I purchase from a NAPA store.
Later, I replace all my battery clamps with plated brass clamps that came
with a stainless steel hex head bolt and a extended nut, which sticks out
further from the surface of the battery clamp. Now I have clearance for
standard 1/4 inch socket drives at both ends of the bolts.
I always carry a on board tool kit, with a box wrench and socket drive that
fits the battery clamps bolts. The handles on both of these wrenches are
cover with heat shrink, so as to prevent shorting across any battery
terminals.
I also carry in the tool kit, several battery links, that can replace or
bridge a bad battery, three fuses of every type your EV uses, multimeter,
battery spray cleaner, paper towels, relays, contactor coils, different size
of wires for making jumpers for temporary work around and a selection of
tools.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Bohm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 11:11 PM
Subject: Re: buildup on battery terminal - why?
> Hi Lee and everyone,
> > or tightening the bolts with just one wrench,
> >
> >
> Will you expound on this? I had to think for a second how to even use
> two wrenches when tightening the bolts. I've only ever used one without
> thinking this could cause damage. Will you please explain the correct
> way to tighten the bolts on terminals to avoid damage? It might save
> several of us from causing damage.
>
> I still have lots to learn...
>
> Ryan
>
> --
> - EV Source -
> Summer Special - Free shipping on all orders over $500!
> Includes Zillas, WarP and Impulse Motors, and PFC Chargers
> E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
>
>
--- End Message ---
