EV Digest 6686
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: LED headlight bulbs?
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Suspension and weight distribution
by Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: 'largish' brushless motors available
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Silly Tweety!
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
5) DC-DC convertor
by Rodney A <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Canned Response Letter from GM on the Volt
by "FRED JEANETTE MERTENS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: LED headlight bulbs?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: DC-DC convertor
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: DC-DC convertor
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: EV APU (genset) emissions & FE
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) the first time there is a place where electricity is costlier than
gas/petrol .. was Re: EVLN(EMC pushing for Philippine EVs, 10passenger, 65kph)
by "peekay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: "A123 propably out of buisness in a few years"
by robert mat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) CLUTCH BUTTON SWITCH ON S-10?? Re: new S-10e?
by robert mat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Issues involved in a controller bypass? (ForkenSwift)
by "Darin - at - metrompg.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: "largish" brushless motors available
by "joe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: CLUTCH BUTTON SWITCH ON S-10??
by "Dave Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Issues involved in a controller bypass? (ForkenSwift)
by Michael Barkley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: DC-DC convertor
by Mark Dutko <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: "A123 propably out of buisness in a few years"
by "Kip C. Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: EV APU (genset) emissions & F
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Lithium batteries- now economies of scale
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: DC-DC convertor
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: EV APU (genset) emissions & F
by Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: A123 connections
by "Michael" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: Isolating e-meter, 2 dc/dc needed?
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Suspension and weight distribution
by "Dave Wilker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: CLUTCH BUTTON SWITCH ON S-10?? Re: new S-10e?
by "Dave Wilker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: 71 VW Micro Bus
by "Michael" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: A123 connections
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
There was an announcement about a month ago that the
new Lexus will have LED headlights. But finding the
information on their spec is tough. Lexus had nothing
on their web page I could find. And I am unsure if
they are European models only or if they are legal to
use in US. Also the technology to be as bright might
not save you anything. I would recommend looking into
a DC/DC converter to keep the AUX battery charged like
an Alternator does now.
--- Michael Barkley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Anyone ever heard of LED headlight bulbs being on
> the market yet? Some of my EVing is going to have
> to be at night or early dawn. 30+ minutes of driving
> with the headlights on, would draw down quite a few
> amps of battery power on my aux battery.
>
>
>
>
> Michael Barkley
>
> "You might be a REDNECK, if it ain't ELECTRIC"
>
> www.texomaev.com
>
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> There are already induction motors that use the iron core itself as
> their rotor "windings" to save money. The rotor is just a solid slug of
> iron.
I thought the ones with solid iron rotors were "Reluctance motors" not
"Inductance motors"
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
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Darn HTML!!
I turned it off then it's back on again.
Anyway, what I meant to say is, that is no ordinary golf cart!
That is a Wilde Suck Amp golf cart, not to be confused with a golf golf
cart.
By the way, Wilde Suck Amp golf carts can also be used to demonstrate
that EV's are not ordinary golf carts!
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Fri, 20 Apr 2007 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: Silly Tweety!
Hey Ken, what do you mean by slow like a golf cart? I take offense to
that :-) Check out this You Tube of our shop golf cart running 120
volts on a bone stock 36 volt, 3.5 HP motor with a 900 amp controller.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSRAdt4LhFs
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: Silly Tweety!
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Fri, 20 Apr 2007 4:58 PM
Subject: Re: Silly Tweety!
On 16 Apr 2007 at 17:55, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It just keeps getting better and better ...
Except for your poor batteries. ;-)
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
Yes, everything is a compromise. There is a price for everything.
It’s just a matter of deciding what is important to put your efforts
into. We are certainly aware of the toll “racing” takes on the
batteries, etc. But, our goal is to demonstrate that EV’s are not golf
carts and they do in fact have respectable performance. So, we are
paying for that message – and grinning while doing it! Even so, we are
not completely insane. We set the Zilla to 350 battery amps max. And
it rarely sees all of that.
Ken
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All
Does anyone know of a cheap but powerful DC-DC
convertor? Most of the ones I
have been looking at have been quite expensive. I have
also thought of
running an alternator off a motor or wheel, but might
get tricky at night in
traffic (stationary, lights on)?
Any thoughts on cheap DC-DC convertors or otherwise?
Cheers
__________________________________________________
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--- Begin Message ---
Try to find 35/45 watt units. Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Danny Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: LED headlight bulbs?
> No HTML allowed, your message has been deleted. That's a major annoying
> problem of this list.
>
> I think I can already answer it though. Search the archives. LED
> headlights are not significantly more efficient than well designed
> halogens, in fact, I did the best design equations I could and it seemed
> very difficult to even match the efficiency of halogens under realistic
> conditions. A great deal of light is required. The expense, size, and
> heatsinking requirements were really "out there" to match halogen
> headlight output. Without quantum leaps in emitter technology, this
> concept is a dead end.
>
> Coolness factor, yes. Smart move in terms of efficiency, no. Practical
> for an amateur to assemble? Not to my knowledge, though there's new
> stuff coming out now and then so it's hard to say.
>
> Danny
>
> Michael Barkley wrote:
>
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> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
"Cheap" is relative. We want our DCDCs to supply
enough to the 12V line for whatever we're using. That
will vary among drivers. Rain? Cold? That means
rear defroster and blower + wipers. Nighttime? That's
lights (lots of amps). Sooo, the question is, do you
want more than enough amps?
Another feature that is desirable is jumping up to
13.5-14.2 when we turn the car on.
Most of them are between 395-600, as you've seen.
DCP
Belktronix
Curtis
Sevcon
just to name a few.
--- Rodney A <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi All
>
> Does anyone know of a cheap but powerful DC-DC
> convertor? Most of the ones I
> have been looking at have been quite expensive. I
> have
> also thought of
> running an alternator off a motor or wheel, but
> might
> get tricky at night in
> traffic (stationary, lights on)?
>
> Any thoughts on cheap DC-DC convertors or otherwise?
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
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--- Begin Message ---
Get a look at Ebay
Cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait du volant, quel carburant choisiriez-vous
?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rodney A" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: DC-DC convertor
Hi All
Does anyone know of a cheap but powerful DC-DC
convertor? Most of the ones I
have been looking at have been quite expensive. I have
also thought of
running an alternator off a motor or wheel, but might
get tricky at night in
traffic (stationary, lights on)?
Any thoughts on cheap DC-DC convertors or otherwise?
Cheers
__________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The prius unit is an ingenious design but requires everything to be there.
imagine a planatery gear set with the ICE powering the carrier, one
motor driving the sun gear and the other attatched to the ring which
drives the vehicle (thru the diffey). This setup gives a variable ratio.
http://www.ecrostech.com/prius/original/Understanding/PowerSplitDevice.htm
It is all integrated and bathed in oil. As Lee said, a lot of rework.
http://privatenrg.com/#Nomograph
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> The downside of an EV is that in current models, a four-hour full
> charge on conventional 220 volts home outlet costs about P1,500
> and can travel only 80 kms. This translates into about P18.75 per
> km. compared to less than P5.00 per km. for gasoline-fed cars.
a 4 hr charge costs soooo much ? electricity must be pretty expensive !!
..peekay
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here's my two cents: Like Ralph Nader alluded to in
the movie, "Who Killed The Electric Car", the
corporations will never let us have a good battery.
The big corporations had been circling the lithium
startups like vultures right from the start. We HAVE
TO work with lead acid.
--- Ian Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> This got me worried about A123Systems' future when I
> read it:
>
>
http://www.a123systems.com/html/news/articles/010307_cobasys.html
>
> Since we all know how well Cobasys are using their
> NiMH patents for
> EVs. Corporate takeover and (virtual) patent
> shelving seems more likely.
>
> I sincerely hope my concerns prove to be unfounded..
>
> -Ian
>
> On 21/04/2007, at 10:30 AM, Jeff Shanab wrote:
>
> > I have wondered about them for another reason.
> Being more of a
> > facilitator than an actual manufacturer, they are
> chargeing quite a
> > primium for their "value added" or are being
> forced to buy at too high
> > of a cost. I already have quotes for similar cells
> at about 1/2 the
> > price for around june. We shall see if it is hype
> or if it is real.
> >
> > The point is that there can be a backlash from
> buisnesses buying their
> > cells if they take too long to lower their prices.
> If the wait
> > until or
> > can't lower their prices until after someone else
> comes out with
> > cells
> > at a better value, and purchasers switch, there is
> a good chance those
> > customers will be very hard to win back.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Photo link: Using the world's first licensed
Revived Battery electric pickup truck
for everyday errandshttp://my-ev-diary.blogspot.com/
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--- Begin Message ---
I have a GM Sierra S-15. There is a button switch on
the clutch pedal, which you can see only if you look
up, into the dashboard area. What does (or did) this
button do?
--- Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Does anyone know if these are being produced
> again?
>
> Check this out:
>
> http://www.evbones.com/fleet1.jpg
>
> http://www.evbones.com/
>
>
Photo link: Using the world's first licensed
Revived Battery electric pickup truck
for everyday errandshttp://my-ev-diary.blogspot.com/
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi all -
Thinking ahead a few steps (okay, many steps) for the old ForkenSwift,
I'm wondering how possible / feasible it is to construct a bypass around
the golf cart Curtis.
Some 48v "nitrous" would be nice. Being able to just out-accelerate a
12 year old kid on a bicycle is OK. But I want to raise the stakes and
see if the car could beat a 14 year old. :-D
We've got half a dozen contactors left over from the forklift control
panel, plus the pot box also has a high pedal micro switch which isn't
being used for anything at the moment (it was originally for the
forklift's EV-1 controller bypass circuit).
What issues do we need to be aware of so we don't wreck the Cursit? Is
it as easy as disconnecting pack -ve to the controller and connecting it
directly to the motor "F1" as in our schematic here:
http://forkenswift.com/offsite/schematic-forkenswift-current.gif
Any & all feedback welcome.
thanks.
Darin
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I still doubt that diecast will work in a rotor - I'll have to see it to
believe it, Lee!
Joseph H. Strubhar
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: "largish" brushless motors available
joe wrote:
The point, Lee, was not efficiency - it was that it wouldn't work!
Oh, but it *will* work! Class C and D motors deliberately add rotor
resistance to reduce their starting current and increase starting torque.
They accept the lower efficiency.
There are already induction motors that use the iron core itself as their
rotor "windings" to save money. The rotor is just a solid slug of iron.
They are common for small instrumentation and fan motors where no one
cares about efficiency. My old Teac tape recorder uses two of them as the
reel motors (direct drive, too).
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There are two possibilities that come to mind, assuming this is/was an ICE
vehicle.
1. The switch prevents starting the ICE unless the clutch is depressed.
This is so you can't start the engine in gear and run into something. Kind
of like the neutral safety switch in an automatic.
2. The switch disengages the cruise control when the clutch is depressed.
On an EV, such a switch is sometimes used to drop out the main contactor
when the clutch is depressed to prevent over revving the motor when you
shift gears. With a series wound DC motor, it is easy to over rev it with no
load.
From: robert mat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: CLUTCH BUTTON SWITCH ON S-10?? Re: new S-10e?
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2007 06:39:17 -0700 (PDT)
I have a GM Sierra S-15. There is a button switch on
the clutch pedal, which you can see only if you look
up, into the dashboard area. What does (or did) this
button do?
_________________________________________________________________
MSN is giving away a trip to Vegas to see Elton John. Enter to win today.
http://msnconcertcontest.com?icid-nceltontagline
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--- Begin Message ---
Look at the 12v and 220v models depending on your pack voltage- they
have much broader input ranges when using dc in rather than ac. They
are inexpensive and found on e-bay and solar power supplier sites.
Mark
On Apr 21, 2007, at 5:11 AM, Rodney A wrote:
Hi All
Does anyone know of a cheap but powerful DC-DC
convertor? Most of the ones I
have been looking at have been quite expensive. I have
also thought of
running an alternator off a motor or wheel, but might
get tricky at night in
traffic (stationary, lights on)?
Any thoughts on cheap DC-DC convertors or otherwise?
Cheers
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Everybody should be deeply concerned about the details of the Cobasys/A123
relationship. This could have a huge impact on the price viability of
future EV production - good or bad. I'm betting on bad.
Best case scenario would be that A123 does not sell out to Chevron and we
start to see some real price competition between the Ovonics and lithium
technologies. It may in fact work out that production economies of scale
make the lithium batteries so inexpensive to produce that nickle technology
becomes virtually irrelevant, leaving the door wide open for complete
ubiquity of the A123 design. It still obviously would remain a monopoly,
but the influence of an oil company might be drastically reduced if they can
reap tremendous profits at the outset.
I urge everybody on this list to contact their local congressperson and
senators to stress the importance of assuring that the Sherman Anti-trust
Act does not receive yet another nail in the coffin through another
monopoly. (But keep further political discussion off the list please!)
- Kip
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: "A123 propably out of buisness in a few years"
This got me worried about A123Systems' future when I read it:
http://www.a123systems.com/html/news/articles/010307_cobasys.html
Since we all know how well Cobasys are using their NiMH patents for EVs.
Corporate takeover and (virtual) patent shelving seems more likely.
I sincerely hope my concerns prove to be unfounded..
-Ian
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jack Murray wrote:
I've asked before with no answer, but I wonder if that generator could
be used for an AC traction motor? I may get one and hook it to the
front wheels/ICE motor in the Taurus Wagon, if I can't get it to drive
the wheels it can at least do regen, the back wheels will have a big DC
motor.
Here's one in use in a regen app:
http://reverendgadget.com/triumph2.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well when someone can figure out why a toaster oven costs the same
as a hard drive, please explain it to all of us.
Lee Hart wrote:
List the materials. Weigh them. Add up the cost of the materials.
You'll find that since both are mass produced in very large
quantities, both essentially cost what their raw materials dictate.
R&D is negligible because it's averaged over millions of units. Labor
is negligible because they are made by automation (or at slave wages).
john fisher wrote:
well they certainly DO cost the same, and are made in similar places
at similar quantities, and similar weights, so it sounds like you are
right. But the organizational difficulty of making hard drives and
toasters is totally different.
If your thesis is correct, a toaster manufacturer should be able to
learn to make a hard drive and a hard drive OEM a toaster.
Not at all! The skills and equipment needed are of course totally different!
All I'm saying is that in very large volume production, the cost of
materials is almost the sole determiner of the production cost. That's
because automation reduces labor to a small amount. R&D expenses are
amortized over millions of units (even $100 million of R&D is just $1
per unit), and tooling is likewise spread over so many millions of units
that it adds very little.
So if you think I have a point, its extremely unlikely that a car
company will start behaving like a computer company, or a toaster
company like a hard drive company, simply because their human
culture is different.
It is *possible* for a company to change "jobs", just as it is possible
for a person to give up his old career, go back to school, learn a new
skill, and start all over from scratch. But, it usually only happens
under desperate circumstances, such as when the old job disappears.
I don't think the American auto companies are hurting enough yet to make
such a change voluntarily.
If you were offered jobs at Exide and A123 which would you take?
A123 would be more fun, ...
Exide would be boring, ...
exactly and boring rust-belt companies are not much valued in today's
world. If going to work for Bethlehem Steel or Zenith was a dumb idea
for an engineer 20 years ago, then surely its more likely that bright
kids will go for the sexy companies today, when there is no expectation
of company loyalty or safe pensions.
That may be good in the short term, but bad in the long term. Small new
companies can be fun, exciting, and high-paying; but leave you out in
the cold just as you're starting to raise a family.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.iotaengineering.com/12vdc.htm
They offer a 55A at 13.6V DC/DC that operates off of
120Vac or 120*1.414 = 170Vdc nominal.
I haven't tested the DC voltage input range, but the
output voltage is adjustable from 11.8 to 16.2Vdc
I paid $135 from Mastertech,
http://www.mastertech-inc.com/
I also bought a 230Vac input 55A at 13.6Vdc DC/DC
so 230*1.414 = 325Vdc nominal for higher voltage
conversions. The 230Vac input cost about $280 or more
than double the price of the 120Vac model.
Rod
--- Rodney A <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi All
>
> Does anyone know of a cheap but powerful DC-DC
> convertor? Most of the ones I
> have been looking at have been quite expensive. I
> have
> also thought of
> running an alternator off a motor or wheel, but
> might
> get tricky at night in
> traffic (stationary, lights on)?
>
> Any thoughts on cheap DC-DC convertors or otherwise?
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
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On Thu, April 19, 2007 2:31 pm, Osmo S. wrote:
> These cells are usually connected by soldering or welding, but how
> about just using the good old spring technique, common in many smaller
> battery-powered devices (flashlights etc)? Or why not just press the cell
> ends against each other? That way you could easily remove single bad
> cells from the pack.
> Osmo
The only reasons I can think of are cost, corrosion and extra resistance.
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why don't you tell him to use the laptop power
supplies?
I guess he should do a search of the archive to find
out?
--- Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Mark,
>
> The E-meter is directly connected to the propulsion
> pack to
> measure its voltage and current.
> There is no internal isolation in an E-meter, so if
> you
> would connect the E-meter directly to your aux
> battery,
> then this would connect your pack to chassis ground,
> creating a ground fault and a hazard.
> (It will -bypass- the isolation in the IOTA by
> connecting
> IOTA's input and output together.)
>
> You can choose between using a second DC/DC
> converter
> from your propulsion pack (for example a laptop
> brick
> or a dedicated low power converter with HiPOT
> isolation)
> or a 12V to 12V converter which isolates your
> E-meter
> but allows it to run from the aux battery.
>
> Having your E-meter always on is a great way to
> track
> usage and make sure that recharge balances the
> charge
> removed driving plus inefficiency.
>
> Hth,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private:
> http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD#
> 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Second Life:
>
www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Mark Dutko
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 10:41 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Isolating e-meter, 2 dc/dc needed?
>
> Can someone please clarify the following, I'm still
> not clear on this issue
> from way back...
>
>
> Using a isolated IOTA dc/dc converter with an aux
> battery on the same system
> and an e-meter, is it still necessary to have a
> second small dc/dc converter
> dedicated for the e-meter or is this only the case
> when you have a
> non-isolated dc/dc converter? Do I need a second dc/
> dc converter or am I
> covered by the IOTA? I think this is a yes but not
> sure....
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
>
>
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The shock mount on the frame is not made to carry a large load. You might be
better off adding springs.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Barkley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: Suspension and weight distribution
I'm looking at adding "Air Shocks" to my EV. You can adjust the air
pressure for the desired height needed to regain your vehicle's look.
They are simple to install, and most automotive parts stores carry them,
or can get them.
John O'Connor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM.
I loaded all my batteries in the back of my pick-up conversion
(http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/791 ) and I see that the rear end is
riding very low. Looking back at my project notebook, the rear end
has dropped about 4 inches and the front is about 1 inch higher. Am I
likely to be able to "fix" this situation with a trip to a suspension
shop?
John
Hopefully making an inaugural EV trip this weekend
Michael Barkley
"You might be a REDNECK, if it ain't ELECTRIC"
www.texomaev.com
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Probably kept the starter from activating unless the clutch pedal was
depressed.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert mat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 6:39 AM
Subject: CLUTCH BUTTON SWITCH ON S-10?? Re: new S-10e?
I have a GM Sierra S-15. There is a button switch on
the clutch pedal, which you can see only if you look
up, into the dashboard area. What does (or did) this
button do?
--- Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Does anyone know if these are being produced
again?
Check this out:
http://www.evbones.com/fleet1.jpg
http://www.evbones.com/
Photo link: Using the world's first licensed
Revived Battery electric pickup truck
for everyday errandshttp://my-ev-diary.blogspot.com/
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> VW bugs are great under 50 mph EV's as
> their aero is fairly bad, the Karman Ghia makes a great EV for higher
> speeds.
> Dycus
http://www.maggiolinoweb.it/technique.html
AERODYNAMICS
The Cx of the Beetle, measured in the wind tunnel of the Polytechnic of
Stoccarda on the final prototype, measured just 0,385. This datum
increased to 0,41 in the mass-production, but in any case it remained an
exceptionally low value for the epoch (we were in '38!); you have to think
that the aerodynamic Lancia Aprilia hardly reached the 0,47 (0,44 a
Fiat127 and 0,41 the first model of the Golf). The datum was also
confirmed by the particularly low value of the absorbed power to travel to
100 km/h: only 15 CV. To make a comparison you have to think that a modern
Volkswagen Pole first series absorbs 17,2 CV at the same speed. Anyway,
you have to notice that the aesthetic modifications introduced in the '67
(squared bumpers and vertical headlights) made the Cd of the Beetle
meaningfully worse and in the last models it appeared to be equal to 0,48.
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Yeah I'd expect that the pressure required for lowest resistance might
be mechanically harmful to the cell.
Also, with a string of heavy cells in a line, a bump can potentially
cause some of them to temporarily separate from each other or the
contact at the end of the housing. Also note that the cells need to be
cooled but this method requires them to be contained in a fairly stiff
cylinder that could at best have some holes drilled in it. Technically,
just 3 bars would restrain a cell, but structurally a long string would
have a difficult time maintaining the lateral stiffness that keeps those
3 bars equidistant. Basically the column they form would buckle.
But I lack any data or experience showing this is the case for these
cells in this duty. And it is certainly tempting to have a string you
could just pop the cap off of and empty out the cells for rework, isn't
it? Perhaps the problems aren't as bad as they may seem or may be
overcome with a clever solution.
Danny
Michael wrote:
On Thu, April 19, 2007 2:31 pm, Osmo S. wrote:
These cells are usually connected by soldering or welding, but how
about just using the good old spring technique, common in many smaller
battery-powered devices (flashlights etc)? Or why not just press the cell
ends against each other? That way you could easily remove single bad
cells from the pack.
Osmo
The only reasons I can think of are cost, corrosion and extra resistance.
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