EV Digest 6688
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: DC-DC convertor
by Mark Dutko <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: [EV] RE: Issues involved in a controller bypass? (ForkenSwift)
by "Darin - at - metrompg.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Issues involved in a controller bypass? (ForkenSwift)
by "Darin - at - metrompg.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) A123Systems, probably out of Biz in a few years
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re-branded Hawkers
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: [EV] RE: Issues involved in a controller bypass? (ForkenSwift)
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Suspension and weight distribution
by "John O'Connor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: [EV] Re: [EV] RE: Issues involved in a controller bypass?
(ForkenSwift)
by Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: A123Systems, probably out of Biz in a few years
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Issues involved in a controller bypass? (ForkenSwift)
by "Darin - at - metrompg.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: [EV] Re: [EV] RE: Issues involved in a controller bypass?
(ForkenSwift)
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: [EV] RE: Issues involved in a controller bypass? (ForkenSwift)
by "Jack Riggi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Using Gmail and Yahoo Mail with the EVDL
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: A123 propably out of buisness in a few years
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Zilla troubleshooting
by "John O'Connor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Weird messages fromDecember
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) China may leap frog others ?
by "peekay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) DC-DC convertor
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: Issues involved in a controller bypass? (ForkenSwift)
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Excellent GM Volt video, and other stuff.
by "Peter Gabrielsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Excellent GM Volt video
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: "largish" brushless motors available
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: EV APU (genset) emissions & FE
by Rob&Amy Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
When you say "barely keeps up" do you mean 45 amps is not enough? Why
not get the DLS 75? I will be using two DLS 220 55 amp each.
On Apr 21, 2007, at 3:33 PM, Adrian DeLeon wrote:
Beware if your pack voltage falls between 96-120V. It's a voltage
black hole that few DC/DCs cover (too high for 96V units, too low
for 120V or 144V units). I'm still searching for a suitable DC/DC
for a 114V nominal pack...
IOTA DLS-45 (Rated 108-132VAC input) barely keeps up WITHOUT lights
or heater fan running.
Zivan NG1-DC (Rated 108-168V battery pack input, 600W output) is OK
as long as I don't run the heater fan or drive farther than 15
miles with the lights on.
When choosing a "non-EV" designed or AC/DC converter, keep the
following in mind:
1) Some AC/DC units don't work on DC. Some have input diodes that
may overheat when used with a DC input.
2) DC input = 1.4 * AC input. A unit with 90-265VAC input should
operate well from 126-371VDC.
3) Make sure the unit doesn't turn OFF if its output current limit
is exceeded. Constant current, foldback limiting, straight line
limiting, and hiccup are all OK. At least the converter will try to
turn back on once the overload is gone.
4) Over voltage protection - shouldn't be much of a concern
(anyone, anyone?)
The IOTA would be great with a pack that doesn't sag below 150V,
but it works OK at 120V. As input voltage drops, available output
current also goes down. IOTAs can be found on eBay for <$100.
For a car I'd use at least a 300W DC/DC. 130W (10A) for headlights
on hi and 200W+ (15A) for a heater fan on high. Running the fan at
a lower setting leaves plenty of juice for the radio, blower fan,
vacuum pump, etc.
-Adrian
.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sat, Apr 21, 2007 at 01:35:54PM -0700, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've done this on several vehicles.
Give me a call 206 255 8459
If it's not too much trouble, yes, please post to the list. I've been
in touch with a 3rd list member (via email) with a lower power
controller who is also interested in learning the ins and outs of doing
this.
thanks,
Darin
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
(Posting this on behalf of another list member who's having trouble
getting his messages past the EVDL software:)
----
Michael writes:
I to had wondered about bypassing the controller once up to cruising
speed. From what I can tell, we should be able to use a contactor to
jumper across B- and M-, thus providing a solid ground directly to the
motor. The B+ from the battery pack already goes directly to the motor.
I'm using an Alltrax 7245 controller running a 72vdc pack. I've em
ailed Alltrax this morning concerning what you and I would like to do.
I wanted to get an answer from the horses mouth, just to make sure it
won't blow up the controller. Worst case scenario, I could see turning
off the power to the controll er, so that it's not even turned on during
the bypass operation. This could be done with another relay that has
normally closed contacts, and when the bypass contactor is energized,
that relay could also be energized, which would turn off the controller.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Everyone's talking like A123 holds the patents. They would like to but
they are in dispute.
Maybe the concept of patents needs to be reviewed. 17 to 20 years may
have been appropriate 100 years ago may not be appropriate anymore.
Maybe If the government was serious about the environment/ending foreign
dependece, they would distribute licences and not allow any single
encompassing patents.
Or maybe just restrict them to 1 year, maybe 2. Make sitting on a patent
illeagal.
BTW, Maybe the government can share ownership on patents they helped
funded, Like those out of college research centers. It is that way for
software written in relation to course work for Computer Science students.?
The bigger problem may be that we are part of a world economy and unless
the patents have equal weight in all countries, it seems like all it can
do is prevent competition and encourage other countries to fill in the
gap. I think this has hurt the US economy.
<soapbox>
For those who know me, You'll hear me talk about misplaced blame on
things made in china.
I worked for 23 years in plastics and manufacturing. I saw the plastic
manufacturers/distributors destroy the industry by price gouging. This
drove all small jobs and prototyping out of the country except for those
shops that were large enough to absorb the problem. When all the small
jobs and prototype runs leave a business, the company lasts 1 more life
cycle of what jobs they could afford to keep, then they are out of business.
GE Plastics, shame on you, price fixing at the distributer.
2 bags of noryl plastic, about 100 lbs. >$14/lb
6 bags, same plastic, same distributer, same truck, $8/lb
we are not talking about differences in shipping, that is separate.
pallet about 400 lbs $6/lb
gaylord, about 1100Lbs a single 4'x4'x4' box which saves on
packaging, $4/lb.
This pricing structure is NOT implemented around the world, the other
countries told them they couldn't do it. and this is per lb! So ....
Add that to the American companies that push for lowest price regardless
of quality or environmental waste of "people can just by a new one" And
fuel the Chinese companies (wallmart uses over 20,000 Chinese suppliers)
It is not the Chinese's fault, It is ours. Just like we need to ask for
electric cars at the dealer, we need to ask for better value goods.
The reason this is kindof On Topic is that it effects the ability to
start any EV buisness. :-(
</soapbox>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That's what they look like anyways:
http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/xs_power.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, all,
I'll try to do this at this time verbally and will try to send a scanned
drawing of my revision on Monday as follow-up.
To start with, you'll need to add a separate 48 volt pack. And since these
packs have different draws on them, they will need to be charged
individually. Install a jumper between the negative terminal of the
original pack and the positive terminal of the new pack. Open the positive
line from the controller pack near the batteries and install a mechanical
emergency disconnect. If this is for a motorcycle, install a lanyard that
connects to the rider's belt. Then open the battery negative line between
the main contactor and the battery minus on the controller. Open the line
between motor minus on the controller and the motor. Use two SPDT
contactors. Wire one contactor with the normally-closed contacts between
main contactor and battery minus. Wire normally-closed of second contactor
between motor minus on the controller and the motor. Now wire the
normally-open contacts of both contactors in series with the negative
terminal of the newly added pack and the motor terminal.
I used some surplus contactors which had 48 volt coils, so I wired the two
coils parallel to the new pack with the normally-open pushbutton switch in
the positive lead and a fuse in the negative lead. A big diode should be
placed between the battery positive on the controller and motor negative on
the controller. I don't remember the polarity of this diode, but it should
serve as an additional free-wheeling diode to protect the controller from a
voltage spike when you come off of bypass.
I was told, when I first did this, that I should keep the controller full
on until after coming out of bypass. I was also told that I probably
wouldn't need the big diode with the early Alltrax controllers. Apparently
the diodes were strong enough to handle the voltage spike. I don't know
about the newer Alltrax. Also, I believe the Curtis controllers should
have the additional diode.
Remember, when you're in bypass mode, you have no throttle control and the
motor is seeing everything that the total pack has available.
I don't have a way of posting a link to my drawing, and the discussion list
does not allow attachments, so I will send a .pdf file of the drawing that
illustrates this discussion to anyone who requests it.
- F.T.
> [Original Message]
> From: Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Date: 4/21/2007 2:51:32 PM
> Subject: Re: [EV] RE: Issues involved in a controller bypass?
(ForkenSwift)
>
> On Sat, Apr 21, 2007 at 01:35:54PM -0700, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > HI-
> > I've done this on several vehicles.
> > Give me a call 206 255 8459
>
> why dont you post it to the list?I am doing almost the same conversion as
> Darin and would like to know.
>
> thanks.
>
>
> --
> Eduardo K. |
> http://www.carfun.cl | Freedom's just another word
> http://ev.nn.cl | for nothing left to lose.
> |
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks Dave, Ryan and others.
On Apr 21, 2007, at 6:58 PM, David (Battery Boy) Hawkins wrote:
John, Michael and All,
I hope you didn't put all 24 batteries in the bed, and if you did,
it's
just temporary!
No I wanted them all in the bed. Easier to make a single box and then
with them all in one place
I figured there would be fewer problems keeping temperatures the same
in all batteries.
I only have six floodies under the hood of the truck, and
it's still not enough weight to keep the front tires from breaking
loose
under hard decelerating.
Well then I may have to re-evaluate my plan for the long term.
Also, I would recommend putting the remaining
batteries under the bed for better handling, which you might
already be
planning.
I don't know if I would say planning, dreaming is probably more
accurate.
I may end up going to a professional for new springs/coils to make
sure my set up is safe.
That is if I can figure out why the main contactor is not closing.
John
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>
> I don't have a way of posting a link to my drawing, and the discussion list
> does not allow attachments, so I will send a .pdf file of the drawing that
> illustrates this discussion to anyone who requests it.
>
please send it to me and I will upload it to my site and post the link
for all to get.
--
Eduardo K. |
http://www.carfun.cl | Freedom's just another word
http://ev.nn.cl | for nothing left to lose.
|
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 21 Apr 2007 at 18:08, Jeff Shanab wrote:
> Maybe the concept of patents needs to be reviewed.
Let's be careful please, this thread is wandering off topic and is
developing the potential to cause flame wars unrelated to EVs.
It may be time to let the thread die.
If you have a response to Jeff's comments, please send it to him in private
email. The address is :
js77hanab at earth33link dot net
Remove the 7s and 3s, and convert the at and dot, before mailing.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi James -
Thanks for the feedback.
When you turn the
contactor off, whatever motor amps are flowing will be re-routed through
the freewheeling diodes of the controller, so the motor amps must be
less than those diodes can handle or they will blow.
OK. When turning the bypass contactor off, how long would motor current
continue to flow?
Would it be practical to build a 2-stage release - sort of like going to
neutral for a moment to let the inductive currents sort themselves out -
before re-connecting the controller to the juice?
Darin
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 21 Apr 2007 at 23:20, Eduardo Kaftanski wrote:
> please send it to me and I will upload it to my site and post the link
> for all to get.
Thanks for the offer, and of course it's up to the sender to accept it or
no.
However, I suggest that EVDL users either upload to a file sharing service
such as yousendit.com, or email files to evdl.org for permanent posting in
the EVDL library.
If you want to use the latter option, you'll find my private email address
at the bottom of the EVDL help page :
http://www.evdl.org/help/
It's the one that starts with "evist."
The EVDL library is here :
http://www.evdl.org/lib/
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am really new on this ele. thing but what are you talking about? what are
you trying to do? I don't even know what a controller or a bypass is?
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 10:55 PM
Subject: Re: [EV] RE: Issues involved in a controller bypass? (ForkenSwift)
Hi, all,
I'll try to do this at this time verbally and will try to send a scanned
drawing of my revision on Monday as follow-up.
To start with, you'll need to add a separate 48 volt pack. And since
these
packs have different draws on them, they will need to be charged
individually. Install a jumper between the negative terminal of the
original pack and the positive terminal of the new pack. Open the
positive
line from the controller pack near the batteries and install a mechanical
emergency disconnect. If this is for a motorcycle, install a lanyard that
connects to the rider's belt. Then open the battery negative line between
the main contactor and the battery minus on the controller. Open the line
between motor minus on the controller and the motor. Use two SPDT
contactors. Wire one contactor with the normally-closed contacts between
main contactor and battery minus. Wire normally-closed of second
contactor
between motor minus on the controller and the motor. Now wire the
normally-open contacts of both contactors in series with the negative
terminal of the newly added pack and the motor terminal.
I used some surplus contactors which had 48 volt coils, so I wired the two
coils parallel to the new pack with the normally-open pushbutton switch in
the positive lead and a fuse in the negative lead. A big diode should be
placed between the battery positive on the controller and motor negative
on
the controller. I don't remember the polarity of this diode, but it
should
serve as an additional free-wheeling diode to protect the controller from
a
voltage spike when you come off of bypass.
I was told, when I first did this, that I should keep the controller full
on until after coming out of bypass. I was also told that I probably
wouldn't need the big diode with the early Alltrax controllers.
Apparently
the diodes were strong enough to handle the voltage spike. I don't know
about the newer Alltrax. Also, I believe the Curtis controllers should
have the additional diode.
Remember, when you're in bypass mode, you have no throttle control and the
motor is seeing everything that the total pack has available.
I don't have a way of posting a link to my drawing, and the discussion
list
does not allow attachments, so I will send a .pdf file of the drawing that
illustrates this discussion to anyone who requests it.
- F.T.
[Original Message]
From: Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Date: 4/21/2007 2:51:32 PM
Subject: Re: [EV] RE: Issues involved in a controller bypass?
(ForkenSwift)
On Sat, Apr 21, 2007 at 01:35:54PM -0700, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> HI-
> I've done this on several vehicles.
> Give me a call 206 255 8459
why dont you post it to the list?I am doing almost the same conversion as
Darin and would like to know.
thanks.
--
Eduardo K. |
http://www.carfun.cl | Freedom's just another word
http://ev.nn.cl | for nothing left to lose.
|
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've done some investigating and determined that the rash of EVDL messages
with incorrect formats was not caused by the listserver, but rather by a
combination of (a) several new members using Yahoo and Gmail, and (b) some
long term members' having had their email settings somehow magically change.
I did some tinkering with Yahoo, and corresponded with a few EVDL members
who have Gmail (thanks to Ryan Stotts and Stand Culp). I even opened a
Gmail account myself (a bit of a compromise for me, as I have some privacy
concerns with Gmail).
With all that, I think we've collectively figured out how to set up Yahoo
and Gmail to send guaranteed plain text to the EVDL.
GMAIL :
Gmail defaults to multipart/alternative html when you sign up. Here is how
to change it to plain text.
>From the mailbox screen, click settings (top right corner)
On the general (default) tab, scroll down to Outgoing message encoding
Click Use default text encoding for outgoing messages
Scroll further down and click the Save Changes button
Click Compose Mail (top left corner)
Click Plain text (it's more or less in the middle of the page, on the right,
just below Subject and Attach a file). If the words "Plain text" aren't
visible on the right, but you see "Rich formatting" on the left, you're
already set for plain text, so all is OK.
Now you can compose a message in plain text and send it. The next time you
click Compose Mail, plain text will be the default.
= = = = =
YAHOO MAIL :
Yahoo defaults to multipart/alternative html mail when you sign up. Here is
how to set it to send only plain text.
Click Options (right side, near the top)
Click General preferences
In the third section down, click Compose messages as plain text
Scroll down and click the Save button (bottom left)
FWIW, it appears to me in limited tests that if you use a browser other than
IE, Yahoo Mail >never< sends html. However, I don't know about what happens
when you use Yahoo webmail with cell phone browsers, PDAs, and similar
gadgets.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yep Bob, all we need is our own battery guy or gal.
We have our controller man, Otmar and his Zilla. We have our Charger
man, Rich and his PFCs. And our Motor Man, Jim Husted. On the AC
side, Victor and of course AC Propulsion.
All we need is an advanced battery man/gal in our camp that will
throw some interest our way. Someone who won't be bought out by the
corporate shysters or even the feds who want to hog the technology
for themselves. I realize it's more complicated then that for a
variety of different reasons. But the advanced battery guru seems to
be missing link in our gang of grassroots EV innovators.
No offense to Narwaz(sp?) from US Battery who is on the list and
gives us great information on charging our US Battery batteries,
which have been the mainstay of my EV for 14 years now.
Chip
On Apr 21, 2007, at 8:04 PM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: April 21, 2007 3:50:20 PM EDT
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: "A123 propably out of buisness in a few years"
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert mat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: "A123 propably out of buisness in a few years"
Here's my two cents: Like Ralph Nader alluded to in
the movie, "Who Killed The Electric Car", the
corporations will never let us have a good battery.
The big corporations had been circling the lithium
startups like vultures right from the start. We HAVE
TO work with lead acid.
Hi All;
Bob's right on, here! Be interesting how Tesla will handle
this? THEY
have the bux? Maybe? to pull this off?They could make their OWN
batteries,
IF the patent thing doesn't strangle them, too. Then, IF they pull
it off
,General Murders will follow Baldwin Locomotive Works and The J.G.
Brill
Co.into history! they, Brill, built trolley cars for years!
My two tokens worth
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have all my basic wiring completed but the truck won't go.
My hairball is giving me the 1312 error code (waiting for start).
This is after I have held the key in the start position for about 15
seconds. Going to the palm terminal program it shows that I also had
a 1231 code (propulsion pack open, no contactor drop, and controller
is not responding)
I have checked the following
- The keyed 12 volts to the hairball line has 12 v when key is on.
- The wire going into the start input of the hairball is getting 12
volts when the key is in the start position.
- I read traction pack voltage measuring from the battery side of the
contactor and battery - on the Zilla
- The hairball case is connected to the chassie ground input and the
chassie ground
- The original cat 5 cable from Otmar is connected between hairball
and zilla
However, the output from the hairball to the contactor coil is not
getting 12 volts (which explains why the contactor doesn't drop)
Any thoughts on where my problem might be or what else I should check?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Not to worry, you haven't slipped through a time warp. In the process of
doing some testing tonight, I accidentally reposted a couple of old messages
(from back in December) to the EVDL. Please ignore these messages.
Sorry for any concern or confusion this may have caused.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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--- Begin Message ---
FYI: I found that the low end of the DC input drops off at about 95V with
no ill effects.
That was my experience when I tested it with a 120V pack of tired 6 volt
flooded batteries and no auxilliary battery. When the load was removed and
the pack jumped back up to even 100V it worked fine again.
HTH
Jim
'93 Dodge TEVan
'88 Fiero ESE
>http://www.iotaengineering.com/12vdc.htm
>They offer a 55A at 13.6V DC/DC that operates off of
>120Vac or 120*1.414 = 170Vdc nominal.
>I haven't tested the DC voltage input range, but the
>output voltage is adjustable from 11.8 to 16.2Vdc
>I paid $135 from Mastertech,
>http://www.mastertech-inc.com/
>I also bought a 230Vac input 55A at 13.6Vdc DC/DC
>so 230*1.414 = 325Vdc nominal for higher voltage
>conversions. The 230Vac input cost about $280 or more
>than double the price of the 120Vac model.
>Rod
--- Rodney A wrote:
>> Hi All
>>
>> Does anyone know of a cheap but powerful DC-DC
>> convertor? Most of the ones I
>> have been looking at have been quite expensive. I
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--- Begin Message ---
Darin,
The current needs to flow somewhere or it builds a fat high
voltage arc to whatever nearest point it can find.
Usually that will be the opening contactor, so it will
arc and spark heftily and die an early death, or it could
be that the contacts of the controller relay are the thing
which the arc decides to bridge, which will spell trouble
for the diodes in an even worse way than simply having
them to deal with the instantaneous larger current.
Normally they won't blow from a second long higher
than spec'ed current, as long as current drops off and
they are able to cool off.
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
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-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Darin - at - metrompg.com
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 6:48 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Issues involved in a controller bypass? (ForkenSwift)
Hi James -
Thanks for the feedback.
> When you turn the
> contactor off, whatever motor amps are flowing will be re-routed
> through the freewheeling diodes of the controller, so the motor amps
> must be less than those diodes can handle or they will blow.
OK. When turning the bypass contactor off, how long would motor current
continue to flow?
Would it be practical to build a 2-stage release - sort of like going to
neutral for a moment to let the inductive currents sort themselves out -
before re-connecting the controller to the juice?
Darin
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If Otmar ever makes a controller more powerful than the zilla 2k, I
demand that he calls it the RAPTURE :)), to quote Husted "LMAO"
Jetta is ALMOST ready to run, FINALLY! Got the batteries in the trunk
area, last nite. Boy! I need those on order coil springs ordered from Coil
Spring Specialities!! Looks like a Low Rider! No WONDER! With 600 plus lbs
back there!Gunna mount up the line switch, a Scram, fuze in the trunk, to
conform to NEDRA's reg, and, believe it or not, CT's too!A simple bell crank
to pop the fuse out when yanked from outside. Rapture controller is mounted
up now and I think I can stuff my PFC in too? The underhood area is getting
pretty crowded!I guess I COULD put stuff in the trunk, too. But I like ALL
the works in the underhood area!Ran my power cable ALREADY from my custom
mounted male plug under the gas cap filler, where my " Boycott OPEC, Use
Electric Fuel"Sticker is now. I'll have a BIG Anderson plug under the hood
for FAST charging, from a dunp pack or the famous "Little Blue Box"
across-the-line half wave rectom-fire setup. When I plug THAT in, my
comoputer won't go on line, due to the fearsome power factor thing!PFC's are
GREAT!
--
www.electric-lemon.com
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Lee Hart wrote:
Toyota is selling the Prius as fast as they can make them. They are
ramping up production as fast as they can, and there are are still
waiting lists.
That is very true, and and thus inspired Toyota to announce that from
2008 on
*every* model they will make will have its hybrid counterpart.
My understanding is in 2008 it's only going to be started to
be designed that way, so actual vehicles will be available later
(first in Japan of course). Since base vehicles already being
designed and made conventional way anyway only propulsion system will
get hybrid option, this transition won't take long.
I got this info from Toyota official in Japan last October when
toured their Prius assembly line.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
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Peter Gabrielsson wrote:
I wonder what Siemens and MES use. This Brusa rotor looks like Aluminum.
http://www.metricmind.com/index1.htm See photo 3 under Brusa motor
details.
BRUSA motors use aluminum rotors, but they are not pure induction
machines and this is not as critical choice.
I have never taken apart MES motor but I'm sure they use
aluminum. I can inspect closer photos of MES motor assembly line
I took while being there (twice now).
Victor
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>Hmm, wouldn't it be easy, simpler, more efficient, and possibly
cheaper to just drive a Prius AS a Prius?
Easier, yup. Simpler, definitely. More efficient, nope. Cheaper,
maybe. The idea here is you only break out the pusher/gen trailer on
the rare occasion that you need to make a trip that exceeds your
electric range. When you are using the trailer it will almost
certainly be less efficient than driving the Prius would have been.
Assuming this is a very small percentage of the time on the whole the
EV will be far more efficient than the Prius would have been. This
is not an ideal solution, but most of us do not have the budget/
skills to design and build our own pluggable parallel/series hybrid,
so this is sort of the redneck version :-)
>The prius unit is an ingenious design but requires everything to be
there.
Agreed. Thats the key here, you would want to just use it all,
pretty much as is. I would envision something akin to this
gentleman's condensing a whole VW rabbit into a small trailer.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/304
>As Lee said, a lot of rework.
Also agreed. However, if the drivetrain is kept intact we're mostly
just talking about software mods and related controller hacks to be
able to put the drive in the right mode and keep it there.
Fortunately the plug in hybrid guys have already done most of the
work for you on this front. The Insight guys probably have exactly
what you'd need via the MIMA kit:
http://www.99mpg.com/
The Insight would probably give you a good pusher, but only ~10kW
charging back to the EV bats while cruising. I'm not aware of a
direct analog to the MIMA kit for the Prius, but there is a lot of
info out there. The payoff to figuring out how to do this on a Prius
would be 30-80kW of recharge while cruising. 30kW should just be a
matter of convincing the Prius that the battery needs to be charged.
80kW would be trickier, as now you need to be able to backdrive the
drive motor, and put it in a generating mode. Seems from the first
link below that this would be a software and HV controller mod only,
as it looks like the drive motor is hard connected to the final drive.
http://www.cleangreencar.co.nz/page/prius-technical-info
http://www.eaa-phev.org/wiki/Prius_PHEV
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Prius_Technical_Stuff/
I don't know that I would crazy enough to try building one of these,
but if you really want a range extender that is as clean a possible
it would be pretty hard to beat.
Rob
On Apr 21, 2007, at 2:57 AM, Peter VanDerWal wrote:
Rob&Amy Smith wrote:
why not build a genset out of a wrecked Prius :-)
So, your best bet with a Prius is to use it as a pusher trailer.
It can
also charge your EV's batteries (if you happen to have a 250-273v
pack).
However, even this will be a challenge, due to the number of
computers
and associated parts that will have to be "tricked".
Hmm, wouldn't it be easy, simpler, more efficient, and possibly
cheaper to
just drive a Prius AS a Prius?
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If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
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wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your
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legalistic signature is void.
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