EV Digest 6693

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Series R for Deka Intimidator
        by Rob&Amy Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) RE: My battery charger made up of 9 small battery chargers
        by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: Electric Motor on Ebay
        by Rob&Amy Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: My battery charger made up of 9 small battery chargers
        by Matthew Milliron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Re: electric go-cart pictures + ez-go motor
        by "Dale Curren" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) We're screwed.
        by "Richard Acuti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) RE: My battery charger made up of 9 small battery chargers
        by "David Hrivnak" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) RE: DC-DC converter
        by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) RE: Going Over The Limit
        by "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) RE: We're screwed.
        by "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: LED headlight bulbs?Very OT
        by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: We're screwed.
        by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Bypass Contactor
        by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Electric Boats
        by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: Series R for Deka Intimidator
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: We're screwed.
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: DC-DC converter
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Re: Electric Boats
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Re: We're screwed.
        by "Sean Korb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Re: LED headlight bulbs?Very OT
        by "joe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: Going Over The Limit
        by "Timothy Balcer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Re: Electric Boats
        by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Re: We're screwed.
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 24) Re: My battery charger made up of 9 small battery chargers
        by "Kip C. Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 25) Re: electric go-cart pictures + ez-go motor
        by "Martin Klingensmith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 26) Re: Electric Boats
        by tt2tjw <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Has anyone seen a series R value for the Deka Intimidator 9A34 and 9A31?

Thanks,
Rob

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You can check on whether a battery charger could give you trouble in two
ways:
- check the 110V AC plug or
- measure continuity between any of the AC plug contacts and both 12V
outputs.
Hint: in the second case, I'd only expect continuity if the charger has a
3-prong plug and this (ground) is connected to the negative 12V output.
Most likely though you have a double-isolated charger with a 2-prong plug
and there will be no continuity between AC and DC side.

In case there is continuity, you have the issue that if plugged into a
grounded outlet, the negative of each battery will be grounded, so as
soon as you hook up the second battery, sparks will fly.
The only possibility if you have continuity is to isolate all chargers'
housing and ground prong (pull it out of the connector) so you will get
isolated chargers. but first measure that the other AC prongs have no
continuity!

In the likely case that all chargers have only two prongs, you should
be able to plug them all in a power strip and hook each DC output up
to its "own" battery.
If you want to make sure this is safe, you can plug all chargers into
the same power strip and measure DC voltage between one charger's
neg output and the other charger's positive output.
Though I'd hope that you have a fuse between each charger and battery,
there should only be a broken fuse if there is a short circuit....

Make sure that you regularly check that all chargers finish their job
before driving the car, otherwise you may find an unbalanced pack
and damage one or more batteries...

Hth

Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]    Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water     IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225    VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675    eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Steve Powers
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 5:57 PM
To: ev
Subject: My battery charger made up of 9 small battery chargers

I have now all but given up on my old battery charger
- BC-20.  The thing is a beast - barely better than a variac.  Maybe worse.
It seems that minor imbalance (differences in my battereis) are a big issue
for it. 
And, it is killing my battey pack.  One battery already got toasted, so I
pulled that battery and the charger out.  Maybe this is pretty much a big
issue for any battery charging system that doesn't have balancers.  Either
way, I can't keep killing my batteries, so it has to go.

So, I am going back to the individual chargers on each battery.  I now have
fourteen 6/12 V, 2/4/6 A, Smart "Speed Chargers"  I only paid $10 each for
them so I hope some of them work.  I need 9 to fully charge the pack.  They
are all store returns, but most of them look to never have been used.  So
far so good.

Now, I know (at least I think) I cannot just hook one on each battery, plug
them all in and expect it to work.  Instead, I expect I would see lots of
sparks and 9 chargers going in the trash can.

I expect this, so I bought isolation transformers.  9 for the main pack and
1 for the aux battery.  Total 10 chargers, 10 transformers.  Trouble is they
are heavy.
 I don't mind carrying around the 10 chargers.  They aren't that much more
weight than the BC-20.  But, all those transformers add up to a lot of
weight.

So, do I really need them?  Is there a better way? 
Can I use some diodes in line with the chargers to keep them from blowing up
on me?  Or, am I stick with the transformers.

If I'm stuck with the transformers, I'll probably have to keep them off
board and have 10 extensions cords coming off the car (1 per charger).
Nothing like 10 cords to plug in your car.  

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Steve



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Hmmmm.... I had noticed that too. Anyone have any thoughts on it? Was kind of surprised its HP rating was so low given the weight and voltage rating.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260109446250

Sent the seller an email asking for dimensions and model number.

Rob

On Apr 23, 2007, at 9:38 PM, John G. Lussmyer wrote:

For those who may be interested, I stumbled over this on Ebay tonight:

GE 5 hp DC electric motor 190-200 volts dc class P

Item number: 260109446250

--
John G. Lussmyer      mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http:// www.CasaDelGato.com


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 17:56:35 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:


>
>Now, I know (at least I think) I cannot just hook one
>on each battery, plug them all in and expect it to
>work.  Instead, I expect I would see lots of sparks
>and 9 chargers going in the trash can.
>
>I expect this, so I bought isolation transformers.  9
>for the main pack and 1 for the aux battery.  Total 10
>chargers, 10 transformers.  Trouble is they are heavy.
> I don't mind carrying around the 10 chargers.  They
>aren't that much more weight than the BC-20.  But, all
>those transformers add up to a lot of weight.
>
>So, do I really need them?  Is there a better way? 

  I e-mailed Schumacher before I bought, and asked about this.   I was
told that they are isolated.  I have 10 of the 1200A 12/8/2's.  No
problems.

R. Matt Milliron
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
1981 Jet Electrica
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/702
My daughter named it, "Pikachu". It's yellow and black,
electric and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
** Reply to message from "Martin Klingensmith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
on Mon, 23 Apr 2007 10:48:57 -0400

> <https://nnytech.net/~martin/pics/gocart/>

Are these adapters/endplates/shafts for the ez-go motors available?   I have
two nearly brand new ezgo motors that I would love to put in a project.

Dale Curren

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I'm a car guy. I like all kinds, even unpopular ones and just because someone owns a car I hate, I don't demean it, or them.

Yesterday, I went to a local car club's weekly meet/hangout yesterday in my EV Beetle, not to preach the gosspel of EV, but just to look around and see if anyone had anything new or cool. The hostility I received was beyond belief. One guy told me my car was a "rolling memorial to Adolf Hitler". I explained what drivetrain was under the skin and why I chose it and everyone else pretty much agreed that it was a useless idea because you can't jump in and drive for an unlimited number of miles.

I went down there to look around and perhaps tap into the group's knowlege on how I could improve my car figuring that just because a guy has a 550 cu. in. engine doesn't mean he's closed minded and won't have any ideas. I guess I was wrong. If this is the prevelant attitude, we're in deep trouble.

If anyone needs me, I'll be looking for jobs and a place to live in Italy.

Rich A.
Maryland

_________________________________________________________________
Mortgage refinance is Hot. *Terms. Get a 5.375%* fix rate. Check savings https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search=mortgage_text_links_88_h2bbb&disc=y&vers=925&s=4056&p=5117
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would test.  To my surprise I was able to attached 6 12 V Soneil
chargers to my 72V pack.  The Soneil chargers are isolated so it seems
to be working at least it did on the garage floor.

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Steve Powers
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 8:57 PM
To: ev
Subject: My battery charger made up of 9 small battery chargers

I have now all but given up on my old battery charger
- BC-20.  The thing is a beast - barely better than a
variac.  Maybe worse.  It seems that minor imbalance
(differences in my battereis) are a big issue for it. 
And, it is killing my battey pack.  One battery
already got toasted, so I pulled that battery and the
charger out.  Maybe this is pretty much a big issue
for any battery charging system that doesn't have
balancers.  Either way, I can't keep killing my
batteries, so it has to go.

So, I am going back to the individual chargers on each
battery.  I now have fourteen 6/12 V, 2/4/6 A, Smart
"Speed Chargers"  I only paid $10 each for them so I
hope some of them work.  I need 9 to fully charge the
pack.  They are all store returns, but most of them
look to never have been used.  So far so good.

Now, I know (at least I think) I cannot just hook one
on each battery, plug them all in and expect it to
work.  Instead, I expect I would see lots of sparks
and 9 chargers going in the trash can.

I expect this, so I bought isolation transformers.  9
for the main pack and 1 for the aux battery.  Total 10
chargers, 10 transformers.  Trouble is they are heavy.
 I don't mind carrying around the 10 chargers.  They
aren't that much more weight than the BC-20.  But, all
those transformers add up to a lot of weight.

So, do I really need them?  Is there a better way? 
Can I use some diodes in line with the chargers to
keep them from blowing up on me?  Or, am I stick with
the transformers.

If I'm stuck with the transformers, I'll probably have
to keep them off board and have 10 extensions cords
coming off the car (1 per charger).  Nothing like 10
cords to plug in your car.  

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Steve



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Iota makes a 230Vac input, 13.8Vdc output at 55A
converter.  230*1.414 = 325Vdc, it should be fine up
to 360Vdc input.
http://www.iotaengineering.com/dls22055.htm
Rod
--- Rodney A <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> 
> What if you have a 300 V pack though? I am not aware
> of a DC-DC convertor
> that can deal with that input voltage?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Adrian DeLeon
> Sent: Tuesday, 24 April 2007 4:29 AM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: DC-DC converter
> 
> On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 02:51:50 -0700, Mark Dutko
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > When you say "barely keeps up" do you mean 45 amps
> is not enough? Why
> > not get the DLS 75? I will be using two DLS 220 55
> amp each.
> 
> It barely keeps the 12V battery charged. The lack of
> current is due to the  
> low input voltage, not the 45A output limit. With
> 100V
> input, the DLS-45  
> won't deliver 45A. It's very obvious at night when I
> put my foot down on  
> the pedal - lights dim, fans slow down, etc. As soon
> as my foot comes up,  
> the lights get brighter. Eventually the Zilla will
> toss a "SLI low voltage  
> warning" at me...
> 
> The IOTA is rated down to 108VAC (151VDC), so it's
> running in "brownout"  
> mode with my 114V pack. The Zivan NG1-DC is rated to
> 108VDC, but it does  
> the same thing. I can watch my 12V system go from
> 14V
> to 12V as my pack  
> voltags drops from 120V to 100V while accelerating.
> If
> I don't drive  
> during the day (or if it rains for a week) I have to
> manually charge the  
> 12V battery every other day.
> 
> The Zivan performs much better than the IOTA, but I
> still need to find a  
> better unit. What I've found so far:
> 
> Vicor MegaMod - 3 VI-200 units in parallel, mounted
> in
> a 2.58in x 7.3in x  
> 0.62in case. 110VDC input option covers 66V-160V at
> 450W. $437 and I would  
> need to mount a heatsink/fan. The applications
> engineer wasn't thrilled  
> with leaving the 12V battery in place. Said it would
> only trickly charge  
> with the 13.8V output. But if everything works right
> the 12V battery will  
> only get used when sitting in the parking lot
> listening to the radio (or  
> if the DC/DC fails or overloads).
> 
> Absopulse RWY280. It's a rebadged unit from another
> company - made for  
> railway use. Rugged, fully enclosed, 57V-168V input,
> 280W output, 200,000  
> hour MTBF @ 45C (1,000,000 typical!) Don't know the
> price.
> 
> Polyamp PU300. 13.8V output @ 300W, but $1,500!
> 
> ???
> 
> MeanWell's SD350 would work well, but a voltage or
> current overload turns  
> the output OFF and power must be cycled to get it
> working again :( It  
> would be a steal at just over $200.
> 
> Adrian
> 
> > IOTA DLS-45 (Rated 108-132VAC input) barely keeps
> up
> WITHOUT lights or  
> > heater fan running.
> > Zivan NG1-DC (Rated 108-168V battery pack input,
> 600W output) is OK as  
> > long as I don't run the heater fan or drive
> farther
> than 15 miles with  
> > the lights on.
> >  
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com 
> 
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Its not just the frame that needs strengthening to add additional
weight.  The sway bar does not improve weight handling.  It just keeps
the tires on the ground during cornering.  The problem is in the axles
and the spindles.  I would not recommend going over the limit on those.
What kind of car are you talking about?  Front wheel drive?  Rear wheel
drive?  If it is rear wheel drive, you can get a different rear axle
with a greater weight handling capability.  One out of a truck perhaps
that could be shortened to fit under your chassis.  Moser Engineering
does great work with rear axles.  They can shorten the axles and the
housing to match any configuration.  Then all you would have to do is
cut your mounting brackets off your axle and put them onto the new
shortened axle.

If it is front wheel drive, I don't know of an easy solution.  The only
thing I can think of is to use components from a cadillac or another
large front wheel drive car and weld the mounts and frame components
under your car - like I said, not an easy solution.

Frame strengthening would involve boxing the frame throughout its
length.  This is relatively easy if you are good at welding and will add
considerable strength.  This will take a lot of time however.  If the
car is a unibody car, subframe connectors will help a little. 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Timothy Balcer
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 0:02
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Going Over The Limit

I was wondering what experience folks have had with strengthening things
other than springs to handle additional weight in smaller cars, such as
anti sway bars and such to prevent wrack, or outright frame
strengthening through creative welding. Is there any rule of thumb for
that, in terms of the GVW, or is it strictly a case by case analysis?

--T

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Don't worry about those guys.  When gas prices go over $4 and they can't
drive their cars you can cruise on by and say "Sorry bout your luck, I
guess you should have looked beyond cubic inches...."  They are just
venting their frustration that their hobby is becoming quite expensive.

Do you have pictures of your beetle?  How many miles do you get per
charge?  I would love to see it! 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Richard Acuti
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 7:12
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: We're screwed.

I'm a car guy. I like all kinds, even unpopular ones and just because
someone owns a car I hate, I don't demean it, or them.

Yesterday, I went to a local car club's weekly meet/hangout yesterday in
my EV Beetle, not to preach the gosspel of EV, but just to look around
and see if anyone had anything new or cool. The hostility I received was
beyond belief. One guy told me my car was a "rolling memorial to Adolf
Hitler". I explained what drivetrain was under the skin and why I chose
it and everyone else pretty much agreed that it was a useless idea
because you can't jump in and drive for an unlimited number of miles.

I went down there to look around and perhaps tap into the group's
knowlege on how I could improve my car figuring that just because a guy
has a 550 cu. 
in. engine doesn't mean he's closed minded and won't have any ideas. I
guess I was wrong. If this is the prevelant attitude, we're in deep
trouble.

If anyone needs me, I'll be looking for jobs and a place to live in
Italy.

Rich A.
Maryland

_________________________________________________________________
Mortgage refinance is Hot. *Terms. Get a 5.375%* fix rate. Check savings
https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&se
arch=mortgage_text_links_88_h2bbb&disc=y&vers=925&s=4056&p=5117

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "joe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:06 PM
Subject: Re: LED headlight bulbs?Very OT


>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Martin Winlow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 6:44 AM
> Subject: RE: LED headlight bulbs?
>
>
> > Michael,
> >
> > You might consider HID (High Intensity Discharge) headlamp bulb
> > replacement
> > kits (AKA 'Xenon').  They cut the power used by the headlights in half
and
> > produce a much better (brighter and more suited to human eyes) lighting
> > effect.
>
> Who says that??!!! I HATE them, because they half-blind me! Maybe they are
> just mis-aligned, but I wish they would be BANNED!

>   Right on, Joe!! I don't understand WHY they aren't. Usually on a
obnoxious SUV, rides 3 feet off your bumper 20 MORE over the speed limit.
Godamn lights are SO high that they blast your mirror to the point you twist
it away!

   Maybe a Landing light setup YOU could turn on? Locomotive headlights? to
BLAST the guy back a bit? Except YOU are making a road hazard WORSE! These
guyz are enough of a hazard when they CAN see! The'll be diddling with their
radio, talking on the cell fone, reading a book/paper! I have scene this!

    So to put these lights on YOUR vehicle you only make it worse out there.
Hell! You don't go that fast you need them, in an EV!

   My two lumins worth

   Bob>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- A lot of folks are closed minded and that is a fact. They have always lived in an environment with plenty of until recently pretty cheap gas with a station on every corner. So you need to turn things around and ask them what they will do when gas is over $5 a gallon and harder to find? It WILL be someday not to far in the future. That might shut down at least some of their "unlimited driving mentality". The first question everyone asks is always "how far will it go?" The fact is most people unless they are some of the California commuters I read about don't go that far in a day and the right ev can do the job. There wasn't gasoline everywhere until Henry Ford popularized the Model T either.

Folks around here have been more receptive and ask me all the time about the project. I was invited to Earth Day in STL, but told them it would be next year when the car is done. They told me they would have a place to plug me in.

Don't get discouraged. They didn't believe Noah until it was already raining!

Mark Ward
St. Charles, MO
95 Saab 900 SE "Saabrina"
www.saabrina.blogspot.com

----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Acuti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 6:12 AM
Subject: We're screwed.


I'm a car guy. I like all kinds, even unpopular ones and just because someone owns a car I hate, I don't demean it, or them.

Yesterday, I went to a local car club's weekly meet/hangout yesterday in my EV Beetle, not to preach the gosspel of EV, but just to look around and see if anyone had anything new or cool. The hostility I received was beyond belief. One guy told me my car was a "rolling memorial to Adolf Hitler". I explained what drivetrain was under the skin and why I chose it and everyone else pretty much agreed that it was a useless idea because you can't jump in and drive for an unlimited number of miles.

I went down there to look around and perhaps tap into the group's knowlege on how I could improve my car figuring that just because a guy has a 550 cu. in. engine doesn't mean he's closed minded and won't have any ideas. I guess I was wrong. If this is the prevelant attitude, we're in deep trouble.

If anyone needs me, I'll be looking for jobs and a place to live in Italy.

Rich A.
Maryland

_________________________________________________________________
Mortgage refinance is Hot. *Terms. Get a 5.375%* fix rate. Check savings https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search=mortgage_text_links_88_h2bbb&disc=y&vers=925&s=4056&p=5117



--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I've always had a bypass contactor (and an engage contactor that closes upon pressing the accelerator peddle) and havn't blown a controller for that reason. The single back EMF spike when releasing the bypass contactor isn't sufficient to blow the back emf diode anyway AND the PWM is still at 100% duty cycle at that time so the fets are still on (if done correctly). You can put a 22 ohm resistor in series with the diode on the 12V coil to make the bypass contactor drop out quickly so the controller is still at 100% at that time.. On my homebuilt controllers I havn't bothered though as i have 1200A worth of fets & diodes.

Have a renewable energy day,
Mark

Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2007 14:50:42 -0400
From: "Darin - at - metrompg.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Issues involved in a controller bypass?  (ForkenSwift)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Michael, thanks for posting that.

I think it goes without saying that a mechanical safety disconnect
should be part of any bypass system (if it's not already part of a
non-bypassed system).

Darin

_________________________________________________________________
Mortgage refinance is Hot. *Terms. Get a 5.375%* fix rate. Check savings https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search=mortgage_text_links_88_h2bbb&disc=y&vers=925&s=4056&p=5117
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- i was curious since I'm a water skier what lind of hulls are the most efficient (go the fastest) when converting to electric, say 48V, 8ea 6V Trojan's. Most of the set-ups in Ocalla Florida and Silver Springs were pontoon boats at 48V for the park service and tourists. I would probably have to give up water skiing though but at 5mpg that may be worth doing. I saw some with Ray Electric Outboards (Advance DC & Curtis control) and one solar tampoon boat with twin large 1hp trolling motors on the back "The Chabunagunamog". They all apppeared to do fairly slow, I'm thinking about 6-12 knots for about 6 hours run time. What is the best electric boat recepe'?

Have a renewable energy day,
Mark

_________________________________________________________________
Need a break? Find your escape route with Live Search Maps. http://maps.live.com/?icid=hmtag3
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 24 Apr 2007 at 0:25, Rob&Amy Smith wrote:

> Has anyone seen a series R value for the Deka Intimidator 9A34 and 9A31?

I must have missed something.  Sorry, what's a series R value?

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode?  See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.  
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 24 Apr 2007 at 6:32, Mark Ward wrote:

> The first question everyone asks is always
> "how far will it go?"  ... the right ev can do the job.  

The way I approach this to ask people how many miles they put on their cars 
last year.  Most EVs can easily do 12,000 miles per year (32 miles a day).

Richard, remember Lee Hart's quotation from Ghandi : "First they ignore you, 
then they laugh at you, then they fight you, then you win."  Your experience 
places you at stage 3.  Hang in there, victory's not far off!


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode?  See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.  
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rodney A wrote:
What if you have a 300 V pack though? I am not aware of
a DC-DC convertor that can deal with that input voltage?

300vdc is actually pretty easy. Almost all switching power supplies can run on 240vac. They rectify the incoming AC to produce 320vdc, and the internal DC/DC runs on that. This is close enough to 300vdc to work fine.

--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
We used to have a few regulars on the EVDL who were into racing electric 
boats.  I remember some pretty hair-raising stories!  This was probably at 
least 10 years ago.  You might try the old Crest archives to see if any of 
their messages are still hanging round.

http://crest.org/discussion/ev/


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode?  See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.  
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 4/24/07, Richard Acuti <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I went down there to look around and perhaps tap into the group's knowlege
on how I could improve my car figuring that just because a guy has a 550
cu.
in. engine doesn't mean he's closed minded and won't have any ideas. I
guess
I was wrong. If this is the prevelant attitude, we're in deep trouble.


It's not the prevalent attitude for all car nuts.  It sounds like you ran
into some domestic car snobs.  Try your local autocross group.  They're more
eclectic in their tastes and VWs are not unwelcome.  For many, the animosity
between the muscle car and the VW goes back to the mid '60s.

Next time someone compares your car to Hitler's vision, remind them that
Henry Ford was presented the Iron Cross before the war broke out.  That will
make you the instant friend of all the Chevy heads :)

--
Sean Korb [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.spkorb.org
'65, '68 Mustangs, '68 Cougar, '78 R100/7, '71 Pantera #1382
"The more you drive, the less intelligent you get" --Miller
"Computers are useless.  They can only give you answers." -P. Picasso

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That would make sense, as some seem more bothersome than others.

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message ----- From: "Danny Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: LED headlight bulbs?Very OT


"xenon" does not mean HID.
Xenon is a halogen element on the periodic table, it is often used in halogen bulbs and thus the term may be used for ordinary halogen bulbs and headlights.

HID is a xenon-filled capsule that forms an arc between two electrodes, much like a xenon strobe or camera flash but continuous. HID is extremely efficient, more so than halogen bulbs, LEDs, and even flourescent tubes.

HID headlights are extremely bright but generally legal since the law specified the electrical power the headlights consume, not the output. HIDs cannot be started and stopped at will like a halogen bulb, it must go through a starting cycle that takes a minute or so, even if it's still warm from being run only moments ago. This prevents it from being switched on and off like a normal high beam.

Some aftermarket modifications that put a HID capsule in place of a replaceable conventional bulb have been accused of having a bad spread that exposes oncoming drivers to too much stray light. They might be right.

Danny

w" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 6:44 AM
Subject: RE: LED headlight bulbs?


Michael,

You might consider HID (High Intensity Discharge) headlamp bulb replacement kits (AKA 'Xenon'). They cut the power used by the headlights in half and
produce a much better (brighter and more suited to human eyes) lighting
effect.


Who says that??!!! I HATE them, because they half-blind me! Maybe they are just mis-aligned, but I wish they would be BANNED!

 Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]







--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 4/24/07, Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Its not just the frame that needs strengthening to add additional
weight.  The sway bar does not improve weight handling.  It just keeps
the tires on the ground during cornering.  The problem is in the axles
and the spindles.  I would not recommend going over the limit on those.
What kind of car are you talking about?  Front wheel drive?  Rear wheel
drive?  If it is rear wheel drive, you can get a different rear axle
with a greater weight handling capability.  One out of a truck perhaps
that could be shortened to fit under your chassis.  Moser Engineering
does great work with rear axles.  They can shorten the axles and the
housing to match any configuration.  Then all you would have to do is
cut your mounting brackets off your axle and put them onto the new
shortened axle.
Excellent! Yes, I'm going for rear wheel drive. I've narrowed down my
donor to a few possibilities, all with rear wheel drive. The one I'm
favoring is a bit heavy, but is inexpensive now and built very well
throughout, the Merc 190E. The 190 series was tremendously over
engineered as they were trying to break into a market segment. Merc
never did make much money on them. It's a bit heavy, but is a small
car. My wife has a 190D, but the 190E (gas version) goes for a lot
less cash. Same body though, and it has helped me to plan. To get
extra range, I would eliminate all or part of the back seat, as having
passenger space is not important for a commuter.


If it is front wheel drive, I don't know of an easy solution.  The only
thing I can think of is to use components from a cadillac or another
large front wheel drive car and weld the mounts and frame components
under your car - like I said, not an easy solution.

Sure, definitely welding and fanciness involved. I mean, you could put
in in-wheel motors in the rear, do the axle strengthening in the rear,
that sort of thing. But those motors are likely expensive.


Frame strengthening would involve boxing the frame throughout its
length.  This is relatively easy if you are good at welding and will add
considerable strength.  This will take a lot of time however.  If the
car is a unibody car, subframe connectors will help a little.

Danke

--T

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I think they may still be here, wasn't Rudman one of them?

On Tue, 24 Apr 2007 09:08:59 -0400, "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> We used to have a few regulars on the EVDL who were into racing electric
> boats.  I remember some pretty hair-raising stories!  This was probably at
> least 10 years ago.  You might try the old Crest archives to see if any of
> their messages are still hanging round.
> 
> http://crest.org/discussion/ev/
> 
> 
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Administrator
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
> or switch to digest mode?  See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
> To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
> the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
I-5, Blossvale NY

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 6:12 AM
Subject: We're screwed.

I'm a car guy. I like all kinds, even unpopular ones and just because someone owns a car I hate, I don't demean it, or them.

Yesterday, I went to a local car club's weekly meet/hangout yesterday in my EV Beetle, not to preach the gosspel of EV, but just to look around and see if anyone had anything new or cool. The hostility I received was beyond belief. One guy told me my car was a "rolling memorial to Adolf Hitler". I explained what drivetrain was under the skin and why I chose it and everyone else pretty much agreed that it was a useless idea because you can't jump in and drive for an unlimited number of miles.

I went down there to look around and perhaps tap into the group's knowlege on how I could improve my car figuring that just because a guy has a 550 cu. in. engine doesn't mean he's closed minded and won't have any ideas. I guess I was wrong. If this is the prevelant attitude, we're in deep trouble.

If anyone needs me, I'll be looking for jobs and a place to live in Italy.

Rich A.
Maryland



Hey Rich,

Hang in there!
It's called momentum. Even popular opinion has momentum and it takes a lot of energy to change it's course. One thing I have learned about dealing with the public, is to never be defensive. That is, don't try the defend you EV. For example, when people comment on the range, I agree that it is much shorter than a gas car. Now that they don't have a disagreement to argue with, I can then explain that the range really isn't a problem for me since I can top it off everywhere I go. I don't have to go somewhere extra for my go juice. And since it is a commuter car I never need to go past its range on any given trip. Additionally, I try to keep the subject on performance. That is where EVs easily shine and something they are interested in. But, never, never ever say, "my EV can beat your gasser!" Either demonstrate it or talk about what it can do. Just don't compare it to their car! Try to keep it on their side. That leaves them free to be impressed. I only mention this because it is a valuable lesson I have learned by experience. I don't mean to imply that you were being argumentative. There are always going to be some that have a chip on their shoulder and would "argue with a fence post", like the guy with the Hitler comment. So, just on the the next and keep that EV grin. It will eventually catch on!

Ken
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Soneil actually touts their ability to series or parallel their chargers.

IMO, that is the most simple solution to the battery balancing issue. Not the cheapest, but clearly easier than having to custom build a BMS for bulk charging.

- Kip

----- Original Message ----- From: "David Hrivnak" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 3:56 AM
Subject: RE: My battery charger made up of 9 small battery chargers


I would test.  To my surprise I was able to attached 6 12 V Soneil
chargers to my 72V pack.  The Soneil chargers are isolated so it seems
to be working at least it did on the garage floor.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Dale,
The adapter parts are going to be prohibitively expensive unless you
know a machinist who owes you a favor or three. I guess I shouldn't
say that, it would take about two hours to make the parts, so say $150
+ materials if you know an inexpensive machine shop. I used a very
thin bearing for the motor, but it is a larger diameter than what is
probably required - 45mm. Time will tell if it's too small. I can
provide you with a drawing of the adapter that I made.
--
Martin

On 4/24/07, Dale Curren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
** Reply to message from "Martin Klingensmith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
on Mon, 23 Apr 2007 10:48:57 -0400

> <https://nnytech.net/~martin/pics/gocart/>

Are these adapters/endplates/shafts for the ez-go motors available?   I have
two nearly brand new ezgo motors that I would love to put in a project.

Dale Curren




--
Martin Klingensmith

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark,

to achieve 6 knots with a displacement hull you will need an overall length of about 35 ft.

a well designed semi displacement (semi planing hull) of about 25ft and about 600Kg overall weight could reach about 15 knots with about 25hp. Increasing the weight will increase the required horsepower.

A good estimate of speed for conventional planing hulls is Crouch's formula
speed(knots) = C * sqrt ( displacement (lbs) / Hp at the prop)

Hp at the prop is about 85% of the rated Hp, you may get higher with a well designed electric motor)
C is between 150 and 175 depending on hull form.


A more exotic planing hull will go faster but you must keep the weight very low. If you want to get clever and you are on a calm piece of water you could think about foils.

All these estimates ignore the drag of the waterskiier, I have no idea how large this is but I imagine its pretty big to get him out of the water, I guess its OK if your batteries can deliver the amps for a short period.


Mark Hanson wrote:
i was curious since I'm a water skier what lind of hulls are the most efficient (go the fastest) when converting to electric, say 48V, 8ea 6V Trojan's. Most of the set-ups in Ocalla Florida and Silver Springs were pontoon boats at 48V for the park service and tourists. I would probably have to give up water skiing though but at 5mpg that may be worth doing. I saw some with Ray Electric Outboards (Advance DC & Curtis control) and one solar tampoon boat with twin large 1hp trolling motors on the back "The Chabunagunamog". They all apppeared to do fairly slow, I'm thinking about 6-12 knots for about 6 hours run time. What is the best electric boat recepe'?

Have a renewable energy day,
Mark

_________________________________________________________________
Need a break? Find your escape route with Live Search Maps. http://maps.live.com/?icid=hmtag3



--- End Message ---

Reply via email to