EV Digest 6709
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: DOD question - new/old debate
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: corvette conversion
by Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: LED headlight bulbs?Very OT
by GWMobile <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: LED headlight bulbs?Very OT
by John Fisher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: corvette conversion
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: LED headlight bulbs?Very OT
by murdoch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: DOD question - new/old debate
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: corvette conversion
by Paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: corvette conversion
by Steve Peterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: corvette conversion
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: corvette conversion
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) TOPIC ALERT: LED headlight bulbs?
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: LED headlight bulbs?Very OT
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by Mike Sandman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: corvette conversion
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
16) Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Motor, controller & battery recommendations?
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: EV conversion business model (was: YouTube video)
by "Timothy Balcer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Brake drag
by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21)
by "David Comarow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by "George Swartz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Newest Curtis controllers OK to buy now for 120V EV? Or, go with Zilla
controller?
by robert mat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by "Will Beckett \(becketts\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: LED headlight bulbs?Very OT
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Dead start acceleration issues
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Brake drag
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
...
http://www.metricmind.com/images/eff.jpg
Nice looking display! How does one know what the outside bargraph is
displaying?
It always defaults to a relative SOC, so is 0%-100% of the
battery capacity *you* declare as available to use.
Many don't want to go below 50% DOD. So if your battery
capacity is, say, 60Ah, the last tick on the bar become 30Ah.
Once you've spent 30Ah, SOC will show 0%. You should stop according
to what you've decided but you can keep going if you have to.
Any other parameter is assignable to the analog bar, say, instant
power or battery current. It works sort of like audio equalizer
display with peak detector retention.
speed
----- +---------------+
70 mph | \ |
50 mph |-------\ |
30 mph | \ |
10 mph | / |
+---------------+
range 0 10 20 30 40 50 miles
This is crude, too; but better illustrates the idea. I'm trying to tell
the driver that if he drives at 70 mph, he can go 25 more miles. At 50
mph (which is the current speed) he can go 30 miles. If he slows down to
30 mph, he can go 40 miles. And going really slow (10 mph) actually
makes the range worse because of the load from the accessory systems
(power steering, heater, etc.).
As I said above, the scales would not be literally labelled. The bottom
line might just be "E 1/4/ 1/2 3/4 F" like a gas gauge.
I've tried this with small (1-1/4") color LCD version as well as with
B/W 240x64 pixel LCD. People whom I talked to
didn't like its brightness, small size and temp dependency. LEDs are
much more robust. But the gadget is designed such that main controller
doesn't know/care what type of display is attached - it can be an LCD
later and everything will be working. One step at the time.
Many cars made these days have large LCD touch screens, but another
one of that size (as well as hacking into existing one) is problematic.
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I have to pass a yearly smog inspection here in the metro Denver area,
so its impossible to fly under the radar.
> Subject: Re: corvette conversion
> Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2007 16:04:41 +0000
>
> The easiest way to deal with bureacracy is to avoid it. Why bother
> getting
> it retitled to electric? If you want to do it to make a statement,
> that's
> your perogitive. Personally I just plan on paying my renewal fee
> every year
> after my conversion is done. Since I am starting with a 1970 donor
> there
> are no emission inspections required and no compelling reason for me
> to fill
> out a bunch of paperwork.
>
> damon
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If all that wasn't enough, lights that produce light of the wrong color
(more bluish light instead of yelow or redish) actually cause your eye
to close their irises letting less light in. Thus with the wrong color
light you will be able to see LESS even if the light has more lumens.
This why those horrible new bright bluish lights on cars make your eyes
hurt and when a car passes you you actually have a harder time seeing
things. (Those lights should never have been approved by the Department
of Transporation but the car companies lobbied hard.)
This fact is why pilots flying at night at astronomers use red or yellow
lights so as not to ruin their vision. It is also why dashboards
typically are red or yellow lit at night.
Stare at a new car headlight then look down the road a see how little
distance you can see.
It takes your eyes fully 10 to 20 minutes to reopen after shutting
down.
On Sat, 28 Apr 2007 9:11 am, Lee Hart wrote:
murdoch wrote:
In my home, I have CFCs and they save energy over incandescents
Yes. To light up a room, you need lumens. "Lumens" measure the total
amount of light coming from a device. For this purpose, you want the
most lumens per watt.
and I have bought and tested one $40 LED bulb and verified their
extreme energy savings (though their color and brightness leave a
lot to be desired, at first glance).
At present LEDs are *less* efficient than fluorescents -- they put out
fewer lumens per watt, so they are worse at illuminating things. They
do use fewer watts; but do it by producing less light.
I don't understand though where conventional Halogen fits into this.
My impression from looking at the wattage and lumens at the store is
that even though Halogen bulbs seem very bright, they seem also to use
a lot of energy and so, purely from an energy-savings standpoint, I am
not saving any power, per lumen.
"Brightness" is not a measure of the amount of light -- it is a measure
of how well you can see it from a distance. A star is bright; but you
sure can't read by starlight! Brightness is measured in candela; the
brightness of one candle. To make the number sound bigger, they usually
use milli-candela, or mcd for short (1 candela = 1000 mcd).
Halogen lamps (quartz iodide, etc.) have high brightness; LEDs and
arc-lamps (HID headlights, etc.) have *extremely* high brightness
numbers. But that tells you *nothing* about the amount of light they
produce!
Assuming that for a given task I was willing to size the bulb for the
appropriate amount of brightness, are halogen or HID competitive in
energy efficiency with CFC and LEDs?
First decide what you want to do; illuminate an area, or make something
that others can see at a distance. Then pick the light source that
gives you the desired results.
To light up an area, fluorescents are the most efficient (least energy
for a given number of lumens.
To be seen at a distance, LEDs are the most efficient (least energy for
a given number of candela).
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
www.GlobalBoiling.com for daily images about hurricanes, globalwarming
and the melting poles.
www.ElectricQuakes.com daily solar and earthquake images.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Actually there has been quite a lot of progress lately in white LEDs. A
new chemistry is out there. I am trying an MR16 12V LED in my dimmable
track lights. Its color temp is too high (!) this means the halogen
lights look yellow ( see Ed. Land and color theory for an explanation of
subjective whiteness). Its usable light, what you guys are calling
Lumens, is about half to a third of the 40W halogens' at 3W. (before you
drag out the millicandelas to argue, just try one. It doesn't waste any
light on back-scatter and so is perfect for spots and floods) Its so
efficient you can put your finger on the lens and its hard to tell its
on by temperature alone. Prices are dropping fast. Of course it doesn't
dim. Service life is effectively equal to the life of the house itself,
or so they claim.
so I suggest you try one for yourself and see how it works in your
fixtures. CFs make an unattractive light quality ( I have many - typ FL
problems with flicker and spectrum ) and don't actually last as long as
advertised for me.
*EV content:* You'd need a huge reflector and lens to make an LED
headlight, and it would cost as much as an HID anyway. Try the bicycle
and off-road motorcycle catalogs for small, efficient and easily mounted
HID lights. Expect a high cost.
LED links: shop around! costs vary wildly!
http://www.superbrightleds.com/
http://www.amazon.com/s/103-9057299-1847827?ie=UTF8&search-alias=garden&field-brandtextbin=Cyron%20Light-bulb
http://www.ledlight.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=5
http://www.ccrane.com/lights/led-light-bulbs/index.aspx
http://www.ledbulbs.com/
http://www.theledlight.com/120-VAC-LEDbulbs.html
https://www.shop.donsgreenstore.com/splashPage.hg
JF
David Roden wrote:
On 27 Apr 2007 at 6:07, murdoch wrote:
I have bought and tested one $40 LED bulb and verified their extreme
energy savings (though their color and brightness leave a lot to be
desired, at first glance).
Exactly. Household LED lighting saves energy - by being dim.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steve wrote:
I have to pass a yearly smog inspection here in the metro Denver area,
so its impossible to fly under the radar.
What are you worried about? Your EV will pass the smog test just fine.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
All of these responses seemed quite useful.
The elephant in the room, with respect to CFLs, would seem to be
Mercury. So, I have already piled up a couple, for example, which are
no longer working and which wait in a box, along with some NiCad
batteries, for me to figure out what to do about disposing of them.
I think if the Mercury weren't there, and given the confirming views
we see to get that CFLs do very well with respect to Lumens Per Watt,
then CFLs would seem to be presently a good way to go to save energy
in the home and office. Also significant, I think, is their superior
lifetime to Incandescents. This may not help save Watt-Hours
directly, but would seem to save tangible and intangible resources, in
avoiding replacement hassle.
I have never tried, or looked into, HIDs, Halogen, Xenon, etc. So,
I'm still having a bit of a hard time figuring out if any of them
could be of assistance in helping me save energy in my home. In
purchasing a lamp the other day at home depot for example, I didn't
want to get away from the standard socket and toward a MR-16 (or
whatever it was) socket that seemed at the time Halogen-specific
because the Halogen bulbs always seem to have such a high Wattage
rating that I didn't think I could make it work. From what you say,
perhaps this socket is not Halogen-specific.
My understanding of LEDs is that a lot of work has gone on with
respect to color (bringing white LEDs to market) so I'm a bit
surprised that LEDs can't be found which would do a better job in
headlights and not cause the eyesight problems mentioned by one
poster. Surely carmakers could source an LED headlamp that is further
away from the blue-ish part of the spectrum? LEDs are also said to
last a long time, but the first one I got burned out within the first
half-second of my turning it on... and then I had it replaced.... a
healthy reminder that the technology is a bit earlier-stage than the
CFC tech for the home.
It is interesting to learn that LEDs, even if I grouped a whole bunch
of them together, are not quite as good as I thought on a
Lumens-per-watt basis. This was not intuitive, because at 3 watts for
a bulb, even if it is dim, I imagine that grouping four of them
together might come in "OK" versus a 13 Watt CFC. The answer I guess
was that my estimate didn't quite capture the dimness-calculation with
sufficient exactness.
It was very interesting to read David's points about the differences
between Candellas and Lumens, and how car headlight needs differ from
home illumination needs. Makes more sense now.
On Sat, 28 Apr 2007 10:39:39 -0700, John Fisher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>Actually there has been quite a lot of progress lately in white LEDs. A
>new chemistry is out there. I am trying an MR16 12V LED in my dimmable
>track lights. Its color temp is too high (!) this means the halogen
>lights look yellow ( see Ed. Land and color theory for an explanation of
>subjective whiteness). Its usable light, what you guys are calling
>Lumens, is about half to a third of the 40W halogens' at 3W. (before you
>drag out the millicandelas to argue, just try one. It doesn't waste any
>light on back-scatter and so is perfect for spots and floods) Its so
>efficient you can put your finger on the lens and its hard to tell its
>on by temperature alone. Prices are dropping fast. Of course it doesn't
>dim. Service life is effectively equal to the life of the house itself,
>or so they claim.
>
>so I suggest you try one for yourself and see how it works in your
>fixtures. CFs make an unattractive light quality ( I have many - typ FL
>problems with flicker and spectrum ) and don't actually last as long as
>advertised for me.
>
>*EV content:* You'd need a huge reflector and lens to make an LED
>headlight, and it would cost as much as an HID anyway. Try the bicycle
>and off-road motorcycle catalogs for small, efficient and easily mounted
>HID lights. Expect a high cost.
>
>LED links: shop around! costs vary wildly!
>
>http://www.superbrightleds.com/
>http://www.amazon.com/s/103-9057299-1847827?ie=UTF8&search-alias=garden&field-brandtextbin=Cyron%20Light-bulb
>http://www.ledlight.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=5
>http://www.ccrane.com/lights/led-light-bulbs/index.aspx
>http://www.ledbulbs.com/
>http://www.theledlight.com/120-VAC-LEDbulbs.html
>https://www.shop.donsgreenstore.com/splashPage.hg
>
>JF
>
>
>
>David Roden wrote:
>> On 27 Apr 2007 at 6:07, murdoch wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I have bought and tested one $40 LED bulb and verified their extreme
>>> energy savings (though their color and brightness leave a lot to be
>>> desired, at first glance).
>>>
>>
>> Exactly. Household LED lighting saves energy - by being dim.
>>
>>
>>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee wrote -
> As I said above, the scales would not be literally labelled. The bottom
> line might just be "E 1/4/ 1/2 3/4 F" like a gas gauge.
But then you're right back to the mental calculations, if I drive up or down
this or that hill, I'll use x more KWhr and if I glide to the next light I'll
save y more KWhr etc...
Why couldn't the bottom line be a *learned* number. Computed from the average
of the last 5, or 10 or 20 trips by averaging the amount of KWhrs used over the
number of miles driven. At least you would *know* the amount of miles left,
based upon your own driving skills. There could even be an input as to how many
of the last trips you want to average.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.TEVA2.com
www.ironandwood.org
www.Airphibian.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Apr 28, 2007, at 11:41 AM, Ryan Stotts wrote:
Steve wrote:
I have to pass a yearly smog inspection here in the metro Denver
area,
so its impossible to fly under the radar.
What are you worried about? Your EV will pass the smog test just
fine.
I don't know how they do it in CO, but an EV will not pass a smog
check in WA! In addition to having low enough CO and HC numbers you
have to have a minimum CO2 level (to keep people from doing exhaust
bypassing or diluting to pass.)
WA requirements where simple. The vehicle was inspected by the State
Patrol to make sure it didn't have an ICE or fuel tank. They didn't
look at anything else. They signed off on the form that I then took
to the county court house. A few weeks later I got my new title (fuel
type E.) I started by contacting the WSP and would recommend you
start by contacting your local "regional motor vehicle center."
Paul "neon" G.
WAR IS PEACE
FREEDOM IS SLAVERY
IGNORANCE IS STRENGTH
George Orwell, "1984"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Actually, it probably won't. Here in California, the smog guy will look
at and say "it's been modified, I'm not allowed to test it". No test, no
certificate. Mega dumb, but true.
--Steve (a different one)
On Sat, 2007-04-28 at 13:41 -0500, Ryan Stotts wrote:
> Steve wrote:
>
>
> > I have to pass a yearly smog inspection here in the metro Denver area,
> > so its impossible to fly under the radar.
>
> What are you worried about? Your EV will pass the smog test just fine.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nope...
Most emissions tests are for values that are BETWEEN high and low values. If
your 'vehicle' is out of range then you do not pass the test.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.TEVA2.com
www.ironandwood.org
www.Airphibian.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: corvette conversion
> Steve wrote:
>
>
>> I have to pass a yearly smog inspection here in the metro Denver area,
>> so its impossible to fly under the radar.
>
> What are you worried about? Your EV will pass the smog test just fine.
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 28 Apr 2007 at 7:46, Steve wrote:
> Has anyone on the list done a conversion in Colorado?
If you haven't hooked up with the Denver Electric Vehicle Society, you
should do so pronto. Mike Bachand, are you listening?
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Sorry, folks, but this thread has no clear relevance for EVs at this point.
Please don't continue it. Thanks.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
murdoch wrote:
The elephant in the room, with respect to CFLs, would seem to be
Mercury.
Yes, but it's a very small elephant. :-) The amount of mercury in a
compact fluorescent is very small. If you break one, for example, the
amount is so small that you can't even see it (the mercury is a liquid
at room temperature, and just wets the surface of the electrodes).
Disposing of one is no problem.
The problem is, of course, that we manufacture them by the millions. If
people just throw them out in the trash when they go bad, it's a
milligram times a million or 1 kilogram of mercury being dumped into the
environment. So, they're trying to train people to properly recycle them.
along with some NiCad batteries... what to do about disposing of them.
Same thing for nicads. The nickel is valuable, and the cadmium is toxic,
so it makes sense to recycle them. But people have been throwing them
out with the garbage for years, because there is no public awareness
campaign to tell them what to do with them instead. One doesn't matter,
but millions of them do!
I take my nicads to Radio Shack, who (say) they have a recycling
program. I'm hesitant, though, because a Radio Shack employee once told
me they in fact dump them in the trash after the customer has left, and
they only take them to get customers to come in the store and buy
something. If I had more than a few AA cells, I'd find someplace better.
My understanding of LEDs is that a lot of work has gone on with
respect to color (bringing white LEDs to market)
Understand that white LEDs work just like white fluorescent lights --
the actual light source is monochromatic (one color), and a phosphor is
used to convert this to a broader spectrum of colors. This conversion is
never 100% efficient.
A pure red or green or blue LED is actually more efficient. But the
light is far less pleasing, even when you try hard to use 3 LEDs and the
the right mix of each.
surprised that LEDs can't be found which would do a better job in
headlights and not cause the eyesight problems mentioned by one
poster.
The fundamental problem is that LEDs are high brightness emitters, not
area illuminators. Fluorescents are the champs at area illumination.
Now, perhaps you could combine the two. A headlight that consists of
LEDs to make your car visible at a distance, and CFLs to provide the
illumination so you can see the road.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The power in my area "flickers" quite often. at least one a week the
UPSs on my computers/server get used. and we loose power (old lines
still on poles covered by trees) power from storms and such two or three
times a year.
i don't want to run a generator. and it seems to me that my EV, with
its 15 x 8v 165Ahr batteries could easily run a few critical circuits in
my house.
i am wondering what kind of problems will need to be solved to make it
convenient and safe. i don't want hook-up to take 30 minutes each day.
plus i am not certain if it is even legal.
i am finding a few articles by googling--looks like others are thinking
about this too. i would be interested in any information dealing with an
EV being used as a UPS for a house?
--- End Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
Hello Mike,
According to NEC Article 625-25. The electric vehicle shall not be
permitted to serve as a standby power supply.
A electrical contractor and the electrical inspector will not approved it if
they approved this article.
But there could be a exception if you do not use the DC power directly to AC
loads that can use DC current and do not connect to any building electrical.
If you write up a engineering design, where the DC batteries are inverted to
AC with a inverter with additional equipment that has a low voltage control,
a phase loss control, a 60 cycle detection module and etc. as use in a
transfer switch for stand by power.
You must also have a transfer switch for switching off the commercial power
and connecting to any stand by power. You can have a separate circuit
breaker panel from you main panel, which is just use for the energy
circuits.
You must then have this circuit design sign off by a electrical engineer. It
is then submit to the state inspection office for approval. If its
approved, then you must submit it to the local electrical inspector for his
approval.
Some guys get around all this, by building all this equipment into there EV,
and do not connect to the building electrical. Just plug in the load
directly into the on board equipment directly to the load not connected to
the building electrical.
Just make sure you do not run any 20 amp No 12 power cords over 50 feet or
go to No 10 cable if over 50 feet. Use a on board true 60 cycle inverter in
the 5kw range with 20 amp circuit breakers and plug in receptacles. You
will have to use a DC-DC converter in about the 50 amp range coming off a
battery pack greater than 100 volts, which then will feed a standard 12V to
120V Inverter in the 5kw range.
You can get a DC-AC converter up to 7Kw range which runs off 100 volts of
batteries, but this is normally a large off board unit.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Sandman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 5:47 PM
Subject: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
> The power in my area "flickers" quite often. at least one a week the
> UPSs on my computers/server get used. and we loose power (old lines
> still on poles covered by trees) power from storms and such two or three
> times a year.
>
> i don't want to run a generator. and it seems to me that my EV, with
> its 15 x 8v 165Ahr batteries could easily run a few critical circuits in
> my house.
>
> i am wondering what kind of problems will need to be solved to make it
> convenient and safe. i don't want hook-up to take 30 minutes each day.
> plus i am not certain if it is even legal.
>
> i am finding a few articles by googling--looks like others are thinking
> about this too. i would be interested in any information dealing with an
> EV being used as a UPS for a house?
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Sandman wrote:
i am finding a few articles by googling--looks like others are thinking
about this too. i would be interested in any information dealing with an
EV being used as a UPS for a house?
You need an inverter that can run off your battery supply, that's the
big problem. I was thinking about this the other day as I replaced
battery packs in my office's Symmetra UPS units (APC). I think they run
on 120 volt packs, so you might be able to rig one straight into a 120
volt EV's T105 battery pack.
With up to 6K VA of power at 240 volts, that's not too bad.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I forgot about first gear being to low, Having a manual I always start
in second for that reason. The auto normally doesn't give you the choice
but it would shift pretty soon. It sounds like you got it covered.
--- End Message ---
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I have to agree with you David. It's not that you can't make money at
it, its that you can't make that -much- at it unless the car is also
pimped to look brand new and cool.
So, if you teamed up with a Hot Rod shop, mebee you could come up with
something that might stick better?
Just an idea. :) Of course, then you have the problem of adding even more cost!
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I want to make my car coast like the ones people on the list brag
about. You know, push it with two fingers on level ground, coast for
miles, etc.
Unfortunately, I've got some serious brake drag on the front rotors.
I've got the driver's side front disconnected from everything, and the
rotor takes quite a bit of effort to move. The passenger side rotor is
immobile, but it's still connected to the transmission. (It's an '88
Honda Civic Wagon, if it makes any difference.)
I've heard that a "square o-ring" is the way to solve this problem,
along with cleaning the caliper piston. If someone can tell me more
about the square o-ring, I'm willing to overlook the oxymoron and
implement it. Please? How do I make my brakes dragless?
Jude Anthony
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unsubscribe
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You may need a transfer switch, so that line power is isolated when you are
running your inverter. You would not want to put power back into a downed
utility line because this would be unexpected and dangerous to repair crews,
etc.
There are systems where solar cells help power the house and also feed
excess power back to the utility lines via an inverter. Utilities are by
law required to buy your excess power. The utility participates in the
installation of reversable watthour meters and the rest of it. Most all
installations technically require electrical permit and inspection.
On Sat, 28 Apr 2007 20:54:49 -0400, Christopher Zach wrote
> Mike Sandman wrote:
> > i am finding a few articles by googling--looks like others are thinking
> > about this too. i would be interested in any information dealing with an
> > EV being used as a UPS for a house?
> >
>
> You need an inverter that can run off your battery supply, that's
> the big problem. I was thinking about this the other day as I
> replaced battery packs in my office's Symmetra UPS units (APC). I
> think they run on 120 volt packs, so you might be able to rig one
> straight into a 120 volt EV's T105 battery pack.
>
> With up to 6K VA of power at 240 volts, that's not too bad.
>
> Chris
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There were posts on several forums about "lots" of
Curtis controller failures on electric vehicles, which
leads me to the following questions, in respect to a
120V EV:
- What is the waiting time for a Godzilla (Otmar)
controller?
- Are the newest Curtis 120V (72V-120V) 400A
controllers better built now, so they don't blow up at
low speeds? How about the 120V-144V model, 550A model,
is that a "solid" controller? Are the newer models the
ones that make the low-speed whine-whistle-buzz
sounds?
- Our "non-whistling" (12+ year old model)120V 400A
Curtis failed at low speed, while moving from a stop,
reversing. Should it be equipped with a precharge
circuit, to prevent this from happening? (This
controller failure doesn't appear to be in the power
section; it may be in the controls section.) Is a
failure likely to happen again, after we repair it?
- What is the bullet-proof 120V controller for an S-15
EV, in your experience?
Thanks in advance for all suggestions.
Photo link: Using the world's first licensed
Revived Battery electric pickup truck
for everyday errandshttp://my-ev-diary.blogspot.com/
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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My last solar system had a battery backup using a Trace inverter and that
was 48vdc inverting to 120vac. I had it set up and 4 of the house circuits.
It worked really well.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Christopher Zach
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 5:55 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
Mike Sandman wrote:
> i am finding a few articles by googling--looks like others are thinking
> about this too. i would be interested in any information dealing with an
> EV being used as a UPS for a house?
>
You need an inverter that can run off your battery supply, that's the
big problem. I was thinking about this the other day as I replaced
battery packs in my office's Symmetra UPS units (APC). I think they run
on 120 volt packs, so you might be able to rig one straight into a 120
volt EV's T105 battery pack.
With up to 6K VA of power at 240 volts, that's not too bad.
Chris
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The MR16 is not the LED emitter but a finished product. That may have a
Luxeon 5W in it, or I believe Cree and Lamina make similar types.
Lamina beat the Luxeon out with a neato ultra-thin penny sized emitter,
even that's obsolete now, Lamina now makes a package similar to the
Luxeon Star emitter.
The latest and greatest on the market is the Luxeon Rebel. They're
pretty awesome for power/cost ratio as well as efficiency, size, and
practicality of the package.
The "new" Rebel emitters, some of the colors produce as much as 50% more
light for the same electrical power than the early Rebel release. The
newest ones are due to come out May 20th. They're fairly cheap at
Future Electronics.
LEDs do dim over time if driven at high temperature. High junction
temperature is very difficult to avoid at high power, even with the best
of cooling on the outside. In some cases the device's advertised power
rating must be reduced by perhaps 50% if you want to actually get say
100,000 hrs out of it. Additionally higher junction temps makes the LED
substantially less efficient so doubling the electrical power may only
raise the output by 60%. As you can tell, this comes down to a tradeoff
between cost and number of emitters (making it large and harder to
focus) and the actual light output.
The Rebel is a new technology which tolerates higher junction temps than
other LEDs without degradation. This is a great design feature.
IMHO an EV should be "pimped out" with the red & yellows replaced by
well designed LEDs. That's especially cool if this is like a 90's or
earlier car where they obviously unusual. LED headlights, if an
effective design could in fact be made, would at least be a great
conversation starter even though they have no practical effect on range.
Danny
John Fisher wrote:
Actually there has been quite a lot of progress lately in white LEDs.
A new chemistry is out there. I am trying an MR16 12V LED in my
dimmable track lights. Its color temp is too high (!) this means the
halogen lights look yellow ( see Ed. Land and color theory for an
explanation of subjective whiteness). Its usable light, what you guys
are calling Lumens, is about half to a third of the 40W halogens' at
3W. (before you drag out the millicandelas to argue, just try one. It
doesn't waste any light on back-scatter and so is perfect for spots
and floods) Its so efficient you can put your finger on the lens and
its hard to tell its on by temperature alone. Prices are dropping
fast. Of course it doesn't dim. Service life is effectively equal to
the life of the house itself, or so they claim.
so I suggest you try one for yourself and see how it works in your
fixtures. CFs make an unattractive light quality ( I have many - typ
FL problems with flicker and spectrum ) and don't actually last as
long as advertised for me.
*EV content:* You'd need a huge reflector and lens to make an LED
headlight, and it would cost as much as an HID anyway. Try the bicycle
and off-road motorcycle catalogs for small, efficient and easily
mounted HID lights. Expect a high cost.
LED links: shop around! costs vary wildly!
http://www.superbrightleds.com/
http://www.amazon.com/s/103-9057299-1847827?ie=UTF8&search-alias=garden&field-brandtextbin=Cyron%20Light-bulb
http://www.ledlight.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=5
http://www.ccrane.com/lights/led-light-bulbs/index.aspx
http://www.ledbulbs.com/
http://www.theledlight.com/120-VAC-LEDbulbs.html
https://www.shop.donsgreenstore.com/splashPage.hg
JF
David Roden wrote:
On 27 Apr 2007 at 6:07, murdoch wrote:
I have bought and tested one $40 LED bulb and verified their extreme
energy savings (though their color and brightness leave a lot to be
desired, at first glance).
Exactly. Household LED lighting saves energy - by being dim.
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I'm wondering if your brushes aren't making proper contact. I had a brushed
motor with a similar prob. As I recall, they were binding (worn out) and not
always making good contact. Once it'd get fired up, it'd run fine. I could
give it a partial turn by hand and apply power again, and it was fine.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Barkley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVDL.ORG EVDL.org" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 7:54 PM
Subject: Dead start acceleration issues
> Initially, I can go into reverse, and forward from a
> dead start with lots of power and can overcome good
> inclines. Then all of a sudden, I'll be at a stop
> sign (Usually when there are about 5 cars behind me),
> and it won't overcome a pebble in the road. It just
> sort of inches out and once it gets a little momentum
> it'll overcome whatever the issue is, and go like
> normal. After this, it'll do good starts for a little
> while, and then once again, just inch out slowwwwwly,
> and then finally take off. The battery pack, has
> plenty of charge. As a matter of fact, I took it out
> today, and it did this with a pack voltage of 75vdc.
> When this occurs, at an incline, I have to roll
> backwards to get out of the incline, and make a
> running start at the intersection.
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Before going to all the trouble of fixing your calipers, perhaps you could
try pulling them first. Some rigs (such as the Chevette) rolled moderately
hard even when the brakes weren't dragging.
I reduced the drag on my rigs by rebuilding the calipers. The kits are
fairly inexpensive. When done properly, you should be able to push the
pistons back with your thumbs. (As hard locked as you say yours are, it may
take some C clamps to move them back until rebuilt.) With aluminum pistons,
I polish them lightly with crocus cloth. It seems to help.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jude Anthony" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVDL" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 7:47 PM
Subject: Brake drag
> I want to make my car coast like the ones people on the list brag
> about. You know, push it with two fingers on level ground, coast for
> miles, etc.
>
> Unfortunately, I've got some serious brake drag on the front rotors.
> I've got the driver's side front disconnected from everything, and the
> rotor takes quite a bit of effort to move. The passenger side rotor is
> immobile, but it's still connected to the transmission. (It's an '88
> Honda Civic Wagon, if it makes any difference.)
>
> I've heard that a "square o-ring" is the way to solve this problem,
> along with cleaning the caliper piston. If someone can tell me more
> about the square o-ring, I'm willing to overlook the oxymoron and
> implement it. Please? How do I make my brakes dragless?
>
> Jude Anthony
>
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