EV Digest 6710
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Jetta Progress
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: corvette conversion
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Brake drag
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: corvette conversion
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Dead start acceleration issues
by Michael Barkley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Dead start acceleration issues
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Brake drag
by "George Swartz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Newest Curtis controllers OK to buy now for 120V EV? Or, go with Zilla
controller?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Military Auction in MA, S-10 EV
by "Randy Burleson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by "Will Beckett \(becketts\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: ADC 6.7 redline and how to measure it.
by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: corvette conversion
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: corvette conversion
by Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
19) Re: Motor, controller & battery recommendations?
by "Marty Hewes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by "Will Beckett \(becketts\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: DOD question - new/old debate
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Brake drag
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: corvette conversion
by Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Brake drag
by Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by "Timothy Balcer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by "Kip C. Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: ADC 6.7 redline and how to measure it.
by "Kip C. Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: Jetta Progress
> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > It LIVES!
>
> Bob
>
> Congrats on another success!
>
> How did you register the car, as a gasser first, or did you register it as
electric? How did they
> handle the emissions? I hope to be doing the same soon.
> Hi Dave an' All;
Just went to DMV and registered it! It HAD a CT title, all I had to do
was get insurance and get my Rabbit plates back, as they, DMV will hold them
for you, like if ya get rid of a car. You can't keep them IF you don't have
insurance on the car.When Emmissions come arounfd I'll hafta go threough
that opera again. Now IF I had only got the guyz number from LAST time. The
87 Sentra? I have a NY title for that. I can't wait to deal with DMV on this
one!I THINK I can get a Temp tag to drive it down to DMV for them to vilify
the Vin.no.The damn enmmission thing could be an issue. It's a scam
EVerywhere, Same cars still run, before and after the test.It's just another
tax!Under a different title.It will be fun to see the DMV guyz faces rolling
up in an electric!One with the NY inspection stickers on the windshield!
> Have fun in Middletown.
> We'll try!
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 28 Apr 2007 at 16:47, Mike Sandman wrote:
> i would be interested in any information dealing with an EV
> being used as a UPS for a house?
Some years ago, Tom Hudson bought an inverter which accepts 156 volts input,
to operate from his Solectria Force's battery. I'm pretty sure the intent
was backup power.
Tom hangs out here now and then, and may have some thoughts. If he's not
listening, you might be able to get his email address from this page :
http://www.portev.org/solectria/ho/index.htm
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Ohio has I&M exemptions for EVs. I got mine by having Solectria write a
letter to the Ohio EPA, which then sent me an exemption. I could also have
met an EPA rep by appointment at a nearby emissions testing station, to have
had the car inspected and qualified as a ZEV.
I would guess that if Ohio, which I'm sorry to say is one of the less
forward-looking and less environmentally concerned states, has such a
program, it ought to be available in most states.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
All you need is a regular rebuild kit for the caliper. It should have a seal
and a dust cover,
maybe shims, not much else. The caliper assembly usually has two halves that
need to slide freely.
Each side presses against one of the pads. If one of the sides doesn't move
feely, one of the pads
may keep pressing against the rotor. Look for uneven wear/thickness of the two
pads. Also look for
a pad wearing more on the leading edge than the trailing edge. When you
reassemble the caliper,
don't forget to use some appropriate lubricant. Sometimes you can get crud
building up in the
piston housing causing the piston to seize up. This might also cause drag
problems.
I just rebuilt all four corners of my car. All new seals and pads. And high
temperature brake
fluid. And stainless braided brake lines. And turned the rotors. I have nothing
else to slow/stop
my car but the brakes. No regen or downshifting. They'd better work right all
the time. Don't
forget to fix the emergency brake too.
I would also make sure the bearings are in good shape. Give the rotor a spin
with the caliper off.
If you don't feel comfortable doing it youself, find a good mechanic. But make
sure to fix your
brakes. If they are hanging up or wearing unevenly, it's a sure sign they need
attention. Don't
mess around, just fix them. Not just for efficiency.
</soapbox>
Dave Cover
--- Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I want to make my car coast like the ones people on the list brag
> about. You know, push it with two fingers on level ground, coast for
> miles, etc.
>
> Unfortunately, I've got some serious brake drag on the front rotors.
> I've got the driver's side front disconnected from everything, and the
> rotor takes quite a bit of effort to move. The passenger side rotor is
> immobile, but it's still connected to the transmission. (It's an '88
> Honda Civic Wagon, if it makes any difference.)
>
> I've heard that a "square o-ring" is the way to solve this problem,
> along with cleaning the caliper piston. If someone can tell me more
> about the square o-ring, I'm willing to overlook the oxymoron and
> implement it. Please? How do I make my brakes dragless?
>
> Jude Anthony
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I did the california referee station. it was cool. The guy who asnwers
the help line had an electric rabbit at one time.
The process is in place to change the motive code to electric and exempt
you from future smog tests. They need to see it and the reciepts to
prove that you are not switching it to electric to get the exemption
then switch it back.
The referee here in Fresno is at the vocational school and the had me
get there early and do a show-n-tell for the students.
A very pleasurable process except for the DMV still hasn't returned my
reciepts. They wanted the originals, but next time they get copies. They
cost me a tax exemption.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Folks, thank you for helping me with things to look at
regarding my acceleration problem, here are some
temperature measurements:
AXE-7245 Controller = Max temp so far 95F
Motor/Generator = Max temp so far 125F
Voltage sagging as low as 63vdc under load, levels out
at 75vdc no load.
I'm hoping these temps are not to bad, as it gets up
to 110F here in southern Oklahoma/northern Texas, and
can just imagine what the motor & controller are going
to be at during that timeframe, it's only been in the
upper 70's so far.
I have learned a lesson though, and it might be my
problem alltogether, seeing the voltage sag now from
the battery pack monitor. WallyWorld Max29 batteries,
aren't the way to go for EV's, at least not mine. 5 to
8 miles just doesn't cut the mustard, per charge.
Luckily they took the batteries back, and sent me on
my merry way to SamsClub to check out the GolfCart
batteries there.
Now I'm wondering, is this the way to go?, 6 month no
question asked warranty, (6volt 210ah Interstate) yet
no prorated after that, is there better? All these
questions, I need some ibuprofen.....
Thanks again folks for putting up with me, on this
first conversion, I'm trying to sift through the
archives before posting, to many stupid questions.
M.Barkley
--- Michael Perry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'm wondering if your brushes aren't making proper
> contact. I had a brushed
> motor with a similar prob. As I recall, they were
> binding (worn out) and not
> always making good contact. Once it'd get fired up,
> it'd run fine. I could
> give it a partial turn by hand and apply power
> again, and it was fine.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Barkley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "EVDL.ORG EVDL.org" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 7:54 PM
> Subject: Dead start acceleration issues
>
>
> > Initially, I can go into reverse, and forward from
> a
> > dead start with lots of power and can overcome
> good
> > inclines. Then all of a sudden, I'll be at a stop
> > sign (Usually when there are about 5 cars behind
> me),
> > and it won't overcome a pebble in the road. It
> just
> > sort of inches out and once it gets a little
> momentum
> > it'll overcome whatever the issue is, and go like
> > normal. After this, it'll do good starts for a
> little
> > while, and then once again, just inch out
> slowwwwwly,
> > and then finally take off. The battery pack, has
> > plenty of charge. As a matter of fact, I took it
> out
> > today, and it did this with a pack voltage of
> 75vdc.
> > When this occurs, at an incline, I have to roll
> > backwards to get out of the incline, and make a
> > running start at the intersection.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Then my UPS is illegal? it's gonna push ac back onto the line ? NO
I think it is because the UPS is one way, the computer plugs into it. If
the ups is gone my computer doesn't run.
I think the car can be your UPS as long as you are not trying to do some
kind of a grid tie system. AC thru, charge, and AC from inverter but no
AC back onto the line.
Now how can we switch such a potentially large load and do it in such a
way as to be able to take the car out of the circuit.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dude I coulda told you that. It's been brought up before because
they're such a "visible" product and I say to stay away. I've used a
Maxx29 in my camper van and have been through several, generally failing
way too soon, one in months. Recommend you not bother listening to the
sales guy and do some research on how a particular batt does in EV duty.
Heavy EV duty would by ludicrously overloading these POS. I keep using
them because Wal-Mart keeps replacing them for free.
Danny
Michael Barkley wrote:
I have learned a lesson though, and it might be my
problem alltogether, seeing the voltage sag now from
the battery pack monitor. WallyWorld Max29 batteries,
aren't the way to go for EV's, at least not mine. 5 to
8 miles just doesn't cut the mustard, per charge.
Luckily they took the batteries back, and sent me on
my merry way to SamsClub to check out the GolfCart
batteries there.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I always thought there actually was a problem for EV's using standard disk
brakes because of the drag. There is no retraction system in standard disk
brakes to get the pads off the rotor, unlike drum brakes, where the brake
shoes come completely off the drum by spring retraction of at least a few
thousandths of an inch. So, are piston retractors available for disk brakes
as a retrofit or rebuild kit?
On Sat, 28 Apr 2007 22:06:34 -0700 (PDT), Dave Cover wrote
> All you need is a regular rebuild kit for the caliper. It should
> have a seal and a dust cover, maybe shims, not much else. The
> caliper assembly usually has two halves that need to slide freely.
> Each side presses against one of the pads. If one of the sides
> doesn't move feely, one of the pads may keep pressing against the
> rotor. Look for uneven wear/thickness of the two pads. Also look for
> a pad wearing more on the leading edge than the trailing edge. When
> you reassemble the caliper, don't forget to use some appropriate
> lubricant. Sometimes you can get crud building up in the piston
> housing causing the piston to seize up. This might also cause drag
problems.
>
> I just rebuilt all four corners of my car. All new seals and pads.
> And high temperature brake fluid. And stainless braided brake lines.
> And turned the rotors. I have nothing else to slow/stop my car but
> the brakes. No regen or downshifting. They'd better work right all
> the time. Don't forget to fix the emergency brake too.
>
> I would also make sure the bearings are in good shape. Give the
> rotor a spin with the caliper off.
>
> If you don't feel comfortable doing it youself, find a good
> mechanic. But make sure to fix your brakes. If they are hanging up
> or wearing unevenly, it's a sure sign they need attention. Don't
> mess around, just fix them. Not just for efficiency.
>
> </soapbox>
>
> Dave Cover
> --- Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > I want to make my car coast like the ones people on the list brag
> > about. You know, push it with two fingers on level ground, coast for
> > miles, etc.
> >
> > Unfortunately, I've got some serious brake drag on the front rotors.
> > I've got the driver's side front disconnected from everything, and the
> > rotor takes quite a bit of effort to move. The passenger side rotor is
> > immobile, but it's still connected to the transmission. (It's an '88
> > Honda Civic Wagon, if it makes any difference.)
> >
> > I've heard that a "square o-ring" is the way to solve this problem,
> > along with cleaning the caliper piston. If someone can tell me more
> > about the square o-ring, I'm willing to overlook the oxymoron and
> > implement it. Please? How do I make my brakes dragless?
> >
> > Jude Anthony
> >
> >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
To power the house, the house would need a "transfer switch". That's
what unhooks the grid's connection and switches to the generator supply.
Without it, the generator will be powering up the line they're trying to
fix and also powering all your neighbor's houses. Worse, when the power
comes back on it its voltage and phase will not match the input exactly
and bad things may happen.
Danny
Jeff Shanab wrote:
Then my UPS is illegal? it's gonna push ac back onto the line ? NO
I think it is because the UPS is one way, the computer plugs into it. If
the ups is gone my computer doesn't run.
I think the car can be your UPS as long as you are not trying to do some
kind of a grid tie system. AC thru, charge, and AC from inverter but no
AC back onto the line.
Now how can we switch such a potentially large load and do it in such a
way as to be able to take the car out of the circuit.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike,
What do you want to power?
have a way to plug a power stip into your EV, then plug a light or
two into this setup as emergency lighting might work perfectly,
since you have a 120V pack, although when freshly charged the
voltage could be 130V, so I suggest to use 130V bulbs.
Make sure that you plug and unplug the lights, not try to switch
them off or you are in for a szszszszszsurprise.
The electric kettle (to make coffee!) may be another candidate,
again there is the need to break the power supply before the
built-in switch tries to open and fails.
To power anything that needs AC power, you will need an inverter.
There are larger (around 10 kW and up) inverters which run from
a series of batteries as high as 120 or 240V.
See for example Priups.com
Some motors are "universal" in the sense that they run on AC
and DC, for example a series motor. If your furnace has such
a motor, then it could be powered from your car, I doubt that
the fridge compressor will run on anything but AC.
I am contemplating to use the large UPS I have (R3000) which
runs from 48V batteries and a switching 48V power supply to
take the DC from my pack, turn it into 48V and let the UPS
create 120V AC.
I do not make this a permanent setup, I will need to run
an extension cord from the fridge to the UPS and plug the
UPS + 48V supply into the car when I need power.
That also avoids any issues with NEC, as it is not a
permanent or even a house circuit, just an emergency power
solution like a genset is.
Since my fridge can take up to 2 hours between switching on
(it is an energy efficient model) and has power factor 1
it should have little problem running from an inverter.
Since my laptop and cellphone have universal chargers,
they can plug straight into the EV pack. I won't have
internet though....
I have battery-free crank and solar radios for the occasion
and ditto with flashlights.
Many things can be done to be prepared - it also depends on
how much you like camping out, whether it bothers you at all.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mike Sandman
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 4:48 PM
To: EV Discussion List
Subject: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
The power in my area "flickers" quite often. at least one a week the UPSs
on my computers/server get used. and we loose power (old lines still on
poles covered by trees) power from storms and such two or three times a
year.
i don't want to run a generator. and it seems to me that my EV, with its 15
x 8v 165Ahr batteries could easily run a few critical circuits in my house.
i am wondering what kind of problems will need to be solved to make it
convenient and safe. i don't want hook-up to take 30 minutes each day.
plus i am not certain if it is even legal.
i am finding a few articles by googling--looks like others are thinking
about this too. i would be interested in any information dealing with an EV
being used as a UPS for a house?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For an S-15 I'd go 26 batteries and a 156v Zilla. Lawrence Rhodes.
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert mat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 8:14 PM
Subject: Newest Curtis controllers OK to buy now for 120V EV? Or, go with
Zilla controller?
> - What is the bullet-proof 120V controller for an S-15
> EV, in your experience?
>
> Thanks in advance for all suggestions.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wish I were closer... for the risk of a lowball bid and pickup, this
might be a runner, a glider, or a solid source of parts! Looks clean and
in good shape, minus the batteries...
Event ID: SB2860
Auction URL:
http://web.govliquidation.com/auction/view?auctionId=1194039
Closing Date: 05/17/2007 05:00PM
1997 CHEVROLET S-10 4 X 2 ELECTRIC P/ U TRUCK, MDL- E10603,
85KW, GM POWER ELECTRONICS SYSTEM 110, 3 PHASE, LIQUID COOLED AC
ELECTRIC MOTOR
NO BATTERIES, BATTERY CASES IN BED OF TRUCK
RUNNING CONDITION UNKNOWN, TIRE SIZE: P205/ 75R15, BUYER LOADS.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Trace Inverter I used had an automatic cut off switch to be sure that
power did not go out to the pole when the power was off. It only went to
the circuits in the house. This is critical of the poor guy trying to fix
the outage might get the shock of his life. Most power companies don't
trust this automatic feature and require an additional cut off switch for
solar installs. They will turn that switch off before they try to fix a
problem on the line.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jeff Shanab
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 10:25 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
Then my UPS is illegal? it's gonna push ac back onto the line ? NO
I think it is because the UPS is one way, the computer plugs into it. If
the ups is gone my computer doesn't run.
I think the car can be your UPS as long as you are not trying to do some
kind of a grid tie system. AC thru, charge, and AC from inverter but no
AC back onto the line.
Now how can we switch such a potentially large load and do it in such a
way as to be able to take the car out of the circuit.
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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3:32 PM
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/779 - Release Date: 4/28/2007
3:32 PM
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I understand that most tachs expect 2 pulses per rev. (Mine does.)
EVParts sells a tach sensor, and a magnet collar set up for the 2-pulse
bit. When I got my tach sensor, it had two extra magnets in it; a bit
of cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) and you could easily modify it for 4 pulses.
As for the safety interlock, I've been trying to find a rev limiter for
some time. The only thing I can find for certain is at the Harley shop
across town, and it's supposed to skip alternating ignition pulses and
other fancy stuff. I'm not convinced that would be safe for EV use.
Someone on the list mentioned having them, but I could never contact him
again. Maybe he'll mention it in this thread.
Jude "Spark Lad" Anthony
damon henry wrote:
One of the mods that we did to "Swiss Cheese", the motor for our
Datsun conversion, was set it up to use the RPM sensor the Otmar sells
to go with his Zillas. I have ordered the RPM sensor, but am starting
with an Alltrax not a Zilla. I would at a minimum be interested in
having a motor tach, and may even build a safety interlock to limit
the max revs on the motor. The safety interlock seems like it will be
straight forward enough. I just need to count the frequency and open
the main contactor or disconnect the KSI signal or both (any opinions
welcome) at some predetermined redline. The tach I would expect to be
easy as well, although I do not know how most tachs work. There is
already an aftermarket tach mounted on the steering column in the
truck, so it would be great to be able to use it if possible. The
only thing I know is that the sensor pulses 4 times per revolution.
Is there an aftermarket tach that is directly compatible? What is
considered a safer RPM limit for an ADC 6.7? I'm under the impression
that the smaller motors can spin faster than the larger motors before
they start to self destruct. Is 6K an acceptible red line figure?
thanks
damon
_________________________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sometimes kit car guys will title in another, friendlier state, and then
transfer their cars to their home state. I don't know the legalities involved,
consult a lawyer first.
Utah was easy, I just said I wanted to title the car as electric, and they said
sure and put an 'E' on the title. The car will be verified it is electric each
year when it gets a safety inspection (I don't have to do smog tests).
----- Original Message ----
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 11:11:33 PM
Subject: Re: corvette conversion
I did the california referee station. it was cool. The guy who asnwers
the help line had an electric rabbit at one time.
The process is in place to change the motive code to electric and exempt
you from future smog tests. They need to see it and the reciepts to
prove that you are not switching it to electric to get the exemption
then switch it back.
The referee here in Fresno is at the vocational school and the had me
get there early and do a show-n-tell for the students.
A very pleasurable process except for the DMV still hasn't returned my
reciepts. They wanted the originals, but next time they get copies. They
cost me a tax exemption.
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would also encourage you to contact a State
representative if necessary to get the political
process rolling to make it easier to changeover.
--- David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Sometimes kit car guys will title in another,
> friendlier state, and then transfer their cars to
> their home state. I don't know the legalities
> involved, consult a lawyer first.
>
> Utah was easy, I just said I wanted to title the car
> as electric, and they said sure and put an 'E' on
> the title. The car will be verified it is electric
> each year when it gets a safety inspection (I don't
> have to do smog tests).
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
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--- Begin Message ---
Danny> To power the house, the house would need a "transfer switch".
Danny> That's what unhooks the grid's connection and switches to the
Danny> generator supply.
Presuming the cutover isn't automatic wouldn't shutting off your main
circuit breaker isolate things properly (assuming your EV taps into the
system somewhere on the house side of the main breaker)?
--
Skip Montanaro - [EMAIL PROTECTED] - http://www.webfast.com/~skip/
"The hippies and the hipsters did some great stuff in the sixties,
but the geeks pulled their weight too." -- Billy Bragg
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I liked your idea of using a torque converter alone. If you could figure
out how to use a lock up converter without a trans, it might emulate a CVT
when accelerating from rest, staying at the RPM where the motor makes gobs
of power. I have no idea what would happen if you tried to run it in
reverse though, you'd have no reverse in the trans. I wonder? Too bad the
2 speed Powerglide was never built with a lock up converter.
I hate to think about what an open converter does to range.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: Motor, controller & battery recommendations?
I forgot about first gear being to low, Having a manual I always start
in second for that reason. The auto normally doesn't give you the choice
but it would shift pretty soon. It sounds like you got it covered.
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Yes but utility companies want a visible switch on the outside of the house
that they can lock to be sure it doesn't get turned on while they are
working on the line.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 4:49 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
Danny> To power the house, the house would need a "transfer switch".
Danny> That's what unhooks the grid's connection and switches to the
Danny> generator supply.
Presuming the cutover isn't automatic wouldn't shutting off your main
circuit breaker isolate things properly (assuming your EV taps into the
system somewhere on the house side of the main breaker)?
--
Skip Montanaro - [EMAIL PROTECTED] - http://www.webfast.com/~skip/
"The hippies and the hipsters did some great stuff in the sixties,
but the geeks pulled their weight too." -- Billy Bragg
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Rush wrote:
But then you're right back to the mental calculations. If I drive up
or down this or that hill, I'll use x more KWhr and if I glide to the
next light I'll save y more KWhr etc...
Yes, that's true. We really can't make it perfect, because we can't
predict the driver's behavior. But the system could learn the *battery's
*behavior, which would help.
Let's dream a little... If the car has a navigation system, and the
driver enters where he's going, the car can (theoretically) figure out
how much energy it will take to drive there. It can tell you before you
leave if you have a good chance of making it. It could advise you that
you won't make it if you take the freeway at 70 mph, but will if you
take the side streets at 40 mph.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- George Swartz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I always thought there actually was a problem for EV's using standard disk
> brakes because of the drag. There is no retraction system in standard disk
> brakes to get the pads off the rotor, unlike drum brakes, where the brake
> shoes come completely off the drum by spring retraction of at least a few
> thousandths of an inch. So, are piston retractors available for disk brakes
> as a retrofit or rebuild kit?
>
The piston seal, or "square o-ring" does the retracting. When you apply the
brakes, the piston
moves outward from the housing to squeeze the pads. The seal contains the fluid
pressure, but also
allows the piston to slide. It gives a little under pressure, deforming a bit
out of square. When
the pressure is released the seal returns back to it's original shape, pulling
the piston back
with it. It moves just a bare fraction of an inch, but enough to release the
brake. The pads are
still (barely) in contact with the disc, but not enough to cause any
resistance, or wear the pads,
or build up heat. And when you reapply the brakes, the pads are right there,
ready to do their
thing.
A disc brake works very well on it's own. I've rebuilt disc brakes from
American, Japanese and
German cars and never seen one that didn't work well if taken care of.
Certainly less maintenance
than drum brakes. To rebuild my brakes, all new seals and pads, all four
corners, was less than
$100. The hardest part was bleeding the brakes afterwards.
You've probably spent thousands of dollars converting your EV, why scrimp on
the one system that
is vital to keeping it in one piece? It's so easy to do.
Dave Cover
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Hi All,
First, thanx to everyone who replied to my questions on titleing
an EV in CO, both directly, and thru the list.
Although I have gotten almost as many different opinions as answers,
I believe that it will be technically easy, but possibly
bureaucratically difficult. Once I get past the first level droids
all should fall into place.
So now, back to the design. The prevailing opinion is that the AC55
is underpowered for my application. People seem evenly split on the
issue of AC vs. DC. Because 95% of my driving will be in the
mountains, I really would like regen capabilities. I see 2 basic
courses:
Siemens AC motor and ? controller.
? DC motor and Zilla controller (DC motor compatible with regen).
converted weight approx. 3800-3900 lbs (24-28 group 24 gels)
Suggested configurations?
---
tia,
Steve
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
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In my mind this process includes using the best
quality disc brake pads available, especially for
non-regen applications.
>
> You've probably spent thousands of dollars
> converting your EV, why scrimp on the one system
> that
> is vital to keeping it in one piece? It's so easy to
> do.
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
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Will Beckett (becketts) wrote:
Yes but utility companies want a visible switch on the outside of the house
that they can lock to be sure it doesn't get turned on while they are
working on the line.
A proper transfer switch *simultaneously* disconnects you from the AC
powerline *and* connects you to your alternate source of power
(generator, inverter, etc.) This is what the electrical codes require.
This is all that's required to be sure that your backup power system can
never power the grid.
Now, the utility companies have their own agenda, and own reasons for
asking for different or additional methods.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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Here's a resource to get you started:
http://www.wholesalesolar.com/disconnects.html
The solar guys sell these grid tie disconnects, and they are not all
that expensive. You just need to get one and have an electrician
install it, then have the utility company come out and inspect it and
ok it. It's not onerous, just takes awhile to get done.
Once that's done, you can install solar or wind or whatever on the DC
side as time goes on and you won't need to bother with the utility
company since you've already had it inspected.
My ideal setup would be triple junction solar panels on my roof
(Ovonics ones, funnily enough) , a vertical wind turbine or two
(totally silent), a backup generator for extended outage & 100+ gallon
tank with biodiesel (no hazardous wate problems) or ethanol (same
same), and a big, nasty array of lead in the basement for excess juice
storage so at night I'm drawing down from battery instead of from the
grid. Setup the system so the batteries can't supply the grid, of
course.
Pricey but veddy cool :)
--T
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Save for a grid-tied solar inverter or whatever, the only safe way to do
this is to use the same interlocking idea used in the car itself. Main
power must be wired through a switch that allows either grid power OR your
alternate/UPS. No chance of both being connected at once or power from the
UPS going out to the grid that way.
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 4:49 AM
Subject: Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
Danny> To power the house, the house would need a "transfer switch".
Danny> That's what unhooks the grid's connection and switches to the
Danny> generator supply.
Presuming the cutover isn't automatic wouldn't shutting off your main
circuit breaker isolate things properly (assuming your EV taps into the
system somewhere on the house side of the main breaker)?
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It would be relatively simple to wire an interlock to cutout power at a set
rpm. It's only a matter of determing at what output from the tachometer to
cutout. This would be easiest to do with a simple bar style LED tach, as
you could wire directly to the LED that lights up at your chosen rpm and use
that to signal your interlock open.
It's probably the least sophisticated way to do it and would be anything but
'soft' limiting, but it should be effective. It would also probably be a
quick way to wear out the contacts if one held rpms to that limit however.
- Kip
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jude Anthony" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: ADC 6.7 redline and how to measure it.
I understand that most tachs expect 2 pulses per rev. (Mine does.)
EVParts sells a tach sensor, and a magnet collar set up for the 2-pulse
bit. When I got my tach sensor, it had two extra magnets in it; a bit of
cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) and you could easily modify it for 4 pulses.
As for the safety interlock, I've been trying to find a rev limiter for
some time. The only thing I can find for certain is at the Harley shop
across town, and it's supposed to skip alternating ignition pulses and
other fancy stuff. I'm not convinced that would be safe for EV use.
Someone on the list mentioned having them, but I could never contact him
again. Maybe he'll mention it in this thread.
Jude "Spark Lad" Anthony
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I would think you could use your car. I've actually used my car to
run Christmas lights.
Reason I say this is, if you check out the solar energy systems
available, many of them use flooded batteries as part of the backup
power supply. In your case your backup power supply is mobile.
You would need an inverter. Many solar inverters, like Xantrex are 24
volt DC input/120 VAC output. 3 of those 8 volters would work for 24
VDC. You can also stack the inverters and parallel the batteries to
get 120/240 VAC output.
Xantrex inverters are on the pricey side but something similar would
work. I'm just mentioning Xantrex because I'm more familiar with
those and they are specifically designed to be tied into your home.
By paralleling your batteries you can increase the capacity for the
system. The 8-volters are a bit weak on the capacity side so
paralleling several 24 volt strings will help bring the KW capacity
up. And you have plenty of batteries to do that. You could
conceivably run 5 parallel strings which could give you a 19.8 KW
hour power supply (you'll have to check my math, since I'm terrible
on that subject) which realistically is about 15 KW of usable power.
Home Power Magazine is a good resource for doing this kind of stuff.
Chip Gribben
On Apr 29, 2007, at 12:40 AM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: Mike Sandman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: April 28, 2007 7:47:32 PM EDT
To: EV Discussion List <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
The power in my area "flickers" quite often. at least one a week
the UPSs on my computers/server get used. and we loose power (old
lines still on poles covered by trees) power from storms and such
two or three times a year.
i don't want to run a generator. and it seems to me that my EV,
with its 15 x 8v 165Ahr batteries could easily run a few critical
circuits in my house.
i am wondering what kind of problems will need to be solved to make
it convenient and safe. i don't want hook-up to take 30 minutes
each day. plus i am not certain if it is even legal.
i am finding a few articles by googling--looks like others are
thinking about this too. i would be interested in any information
dealing with an EV being used as a UPS for a house?
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