EV Digest 6711
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Broke college student needing some experience
by geoff <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: ADC 6.7 redline and how to measure it.
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Brake drag
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Broke college student needing some experience
by "Ed K." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: DOD question - new/old debate
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Broke college student needing some experience
by "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Can my car be a UPS for my house?
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: ADC 6.7 redline - now rev limiter
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Upstate NY EV Groups?
by "mclTunes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Brake drag
by "Mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Brake drag
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Newest Curtis controllers OK to buy now for 120V EV? Or, go with Zilla
controller?
by "Dr. Andy Mars" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Electric Aircraft
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
15) RE: corvette conversion
by "Mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Upstate NY EV Groups?
by "Martin Klingensmith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: car (and current) surges while driving
by "Deanne Mott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: DOD question - new/old debate
by "Alan Gideon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) light tango kind of model .. chinese
by "peekay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Newest Curtis controllers OK to buy now for 120V EV? Or, go with Zilla
controller?
by "Timothy Balcer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Electric Aircraft
by Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Upgrade to NiMH & Last Call Lee Hart Battery balancer mail thread
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
23) Re: Upstate NY EV Groups?
by Dave Stensland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So if most tachs expect two pulses per revolution then I can either build a
circuit to skip half of the pulses (I would probably use a uP for this and
the saftey interlock) or I could just leave the pulses alone and the tach
will read twice the actual value. Both of those choices sound accetable to
me. Thanks for the help.
As far as the safety interlock, it should be very easy to do with one of my
Basic Stamps I have. Just use the built in frequency count function and
issue a signal to open a normally closed relay or contact or both once it
goes above a certain frequency. It also should be very straight forward to
count only every other pulse and send a new set of pulses to the tach.
damon
From: Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: ADC 6.7 redline and how to measure it.
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2007 22:34:51 -0400
I understand that most tachs expect 2 pulses per rev. (Mine does.)
EVParts sells a tach sensor, and a magnet collar set up for the 2-pulse
bit. When I got my tach sensor, it had two extra magnets in it; a bit of
cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) and you could easily modify it for 4 pulses.
As for the safety interlock, I've been trying to find a rev limiter for
some time. The only thing I can find for certain is at the Harley shop
across town, and it's supposed to skip alternating ignition pulses and
other fancy stuff. I'm not convinced that would be safe for EV use.
Someone on the list mentioned having them, but I could never contact him
again. Maybe he'll mention it in this thread.
Jude "Spark Lad" Anthony
damon henry wrote:
One of the mods that we did to "Swiss Cheese", the motor for our Datsun
conversion, was set it up to use the RPM sensor the Otmar sells to go with
his Zillas. I have ordered the RPM sensor, but am starting with an
Alltrax not a Zilla. I would at a minimum be interested in having a motor
tach, and may even build a safety interlock to limit the max revs on the
motor. The safety interlock seems like it will be straight forward
enough. I just need to count the frequency and open the main contactor or
disconnect the KSI signal or both (any opinions welcome) at some
predetermined redline. The tach I would expect to be easy as well,
although I do not know how most tachs work. There is already an
aftermarket tach mounted on the steering column in the truck, so it would
be great to be able to use it if possible. The only thing I know is that
the sensor pulses 4 times per revolution. Is there an aftermarket tach
that is directly compatible? What is considered a safer RPM limit for an
ADC 6.7? I'm under the impression that the smaller motors can spin faster
than the larger motors before they start to self destruct. Is 6K an
acceptible red line figure?
thanks
damon
_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE Web site, company branded e-mail and more from Microsoft Office
Live! http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/mcrssaub0050001411mrt/direct/01/
_________________________________________________________________
Dont quit your job Take Classes Online and Earn your Degree in 1 year.
Start Today!
http://www.classesusa.com/clickcount.cfm?id=866146&goto=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.classesusa.com%2Ffeaturedschools%2Fonlinedegreesmp%2Fform-dyn1.html%3Fsplovr%3D866144
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
George Swartz wrote:
I always thought there actually was a problem for EV's using standard disk
brakes because of the drag. There is no retraction system in standard disk
brakes to get the pads off the rotor, unlike drum brakes, where the brake
shoes come completely off the drum by spring retraction of at least a few
thousandths of an inch. So, are piston retractors available for disk brakes
as a retrofit or rebuild kit?
There is a retraction "system", but it barely works. Disk brakes
typically have only one piston, moving the pad on one side of the rotor.
They depend on the caliper to slide freely on pins to apply force to the
pad on the other side of the rotor. When you release the brakes, they
depend on the rubber seals to roll-back a little, to pull the pad away
from the rotor on one side, and the floating pins to let the caliper
slide back to release the other side due to run-out (the slight wobble
and out-of-roundness) of the rotor.
It doesn't take many miles before the rubber seals take a "set" and
don't pull back, and the sliding pins for the caliper get dirty and
rusty and so don't slide.
So, 99% of cars with more than 10k miles on them will have dragging brakes.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sign up for the North Texas Electric Vehicle Association mailing list, and
attend our meetings.
See: http://nteaa.evgroups.com/
Ed Koffeman
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of geoff
> Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 10:30 AM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Broke college student needing some experience
>
> I'm currently a high school senior in Arlington, TX and I'm going to be
> attending the University of Texas at Austin in the fall of this year
> majoring in mechanical engineering. I've been doing lots of reading and
> research on electric vehicles over the past two years, but I don't have
> any
> where near enough money or free time to attempt to build one myself. I'm
> looking for someone who is working on their own conversion who I could
> watch, assist, and gain some experience from. I'll be in the Arlington
> area
> for most of the summer until late August and then I'll be in Austin
> throughout the school year. If there is anyone in either of these two
> areas
> who is doing a conversion and could use a little extra muscle, please let
> me
> know.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Geoff Scheid
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I do understand and while they used to exist in trace brand inverters,
there were a few problems where they failed to switch and so an
automatic switch was made illegal for GRID-TIE systems. But NOT illegal
for backup systems. There are 100's or 1000's of backup generators in
automatic use in this city alone. An automatic switch is ok and can
switch in under a cycle. As long as the system is not designed to put
power back on the grid, you are ok.
Each of our buildings at work has a 1/2 semi truck sized CAT generator
permanently mounted out back. Some buisnesses even switch to generators
off of natural gas to save money.
Personally I was thinking of splitting up the circuits in the house to
create a critical circuit that is on a backup battery resideing in the
garage or a bunker in back, this huge cheap lead acid pack is also the
dump pack for quick fillups!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee!, combining with navigation system, Pure Genius!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sun, April 29, 2007 11:05 am, Ed K. wrote:
> Sign up for the North Texas Electric Vehicle Association mailing list, and
> attend our meetings.
>
> See: http://nteaa.evgroups.com/
>
> Ed Koffeman
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
>> Behalf Of geoff
>> Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 10:30 AM
>> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>> Subject: Broke college student needing some experience
>>
>> I'm currently a high school senior in Arlington, TX and I'm going to be
>> attending the University of Texas at Austin in the fall of this year
>> [snip]
>> Thanks,
>> Geoff Scheid
>
>
And when you've moved to Austin, there's an active group here as well:
http://austinev.org
Get on our mailing list to find out when things are happening. These days
on most weekends there's someone doing something on an EV, maintaining or
converting. For example, my garage is open almost every Saturday from
2-5pm as I continue building my electric truck. Announcements about this
and other "open garage" meetings are posted on the mailing list and
entries are then posted in our event calendar.
--
Christopher Robison
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://ohmbre.org <-- 1999 Isuzu Hombre + Z2K + Warp13!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One last detail in case people are looking at abusing a sunnyboy
grid-tie inverter.
The inverter is driven off the incoming line. It cannot make power
without the line present. It can't be used for an autonomous system
without some external driver.
Bugs me that when the power goes out on a sunny day my solar just sits
there. Since I can do anything I like on the dc side, a dc powered
charger to my dump pack (must have MPPT in it) or an inverter to a
seperate "emergany circuit" may be an option.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm using a setup similar to what Randy ( Canev) mentioned here some time
ago.
It's a two-step limiter. The first step (at 5500 RPM) disconnects the
throttle pot. This has a deadband of about 500 Hz, so the throttle comes
back when the motor RPM drops to 5000 RPM. This would do the job if the
driver just kept it in a low gear too long while accelerating.
The second step is at 5800 RPM. Here, the KSI terminal and main ( positive
side) contactor drop out. This one has a bigger dead band, and won't reset
the KSI and contactor until the RPM drops to about 4800 HZ. This should
prevent contactor "buzzing". This is pretty much in case of controller
failure ( or, stuck potbox, jammed throttle cable, etc)
An added benefit with a rev limiter that drops out a contactor is it will
act as a failsafe in case of "full-on" controller failure. You could punch
in the clutch without causing the motor to self-destruct if the controller
did this. ( Then, in my case, either hitting the brakes would disable the
positive contactor, or turning off the ignition ( key) switch would drop out
both main contactors.
It's still possible, though, to over-rev the motor by, for instance,
driving down a steep hill with the tranny in a low gear. Or, by shifing
into first at 60 MPH. In both cases, the motor could over-rev without any
electrical power.
Hopefully, in those situations, the driver would notice the tach hitting the
redline. I've though about adding a buzzer that comes on above a certain RPM
to warn the driver, , but haven't done that yet.
Phil
From: "Kip C. Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: ADC 6.7 redline and how to measure it.
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 07:50:34 -0700
It would be relatively simple to wire an interlock to cutout power at a set
rpm. It's only a matter of determing at what output from the tachometer to
cutout. This would be easiest to do with a simple bar style LED tach, as
you could wire directly to the LED that lights up at your chosen rpm and
use that to signal your interlock open.
It's probably the least sophisticated way to do it and would be anything
but 'soft' limiting, but it should be effective. It would also probably be
a quick way to wear out the contacts if one held rpms to that limit
however.
- Kip
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jude Anthony" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: ADC 6.7 redline and how to measure it.
_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE Web site, company branded e-mail and more from Microsoft Office
Live! http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/mcrssaub0050001411mrt/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Are there any active EV groups near Binghamton or Ithaca NY? For that
matter is there a directory somewhere of EV groups?
Thanks...
-- Mark Lepkowski
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I too have experienced a disk brake (OEM types that were built for a price
probably the single piston type that Lee refers to) dragging although I
usually noticed it at 50,000 miles or up.
I hear about "zero" drag disk brakes, but don't really know what this means
(I do understand the intent). Is it some sort of positively controlled
retraction of the pads for the rotors or is it the same old OEM type
technology and marketing hype?
So the end question becomes what type of disk brake system should one choose
when looking for a zero drag, long lasting solution?
Are the multi-piston (caliper) designs from after market manufacturers like
Baer, Wilwood etc. a better choice?
Mike Bachand
DEVC/EAA Colorado
1994 Kawasaki Ninja EV
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lee Hart
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 9:40 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Brake drag
George Swartz wrote:
> I always thought there actually was a problem for EV's using standard disk
> brakes because of the drag. There is no retraction system in standard
disk
> brakes to get the pads off the rotor, unlike drum brakes, where the brake
> shoes come completely off the drum by spring retraction of at least a few
> thousandths of an inch. So, are piston retractors available for disk
brakes
> as a retrofit or rebuild kit?
There is a retraction "system", but it barely works. Disk brakes
typically have only one piston, moving the pad on one side of the rotor.
They depend on the caliper to slide freely on pins to apply force to the
pad on the other side of the rotor. When you release the brakes, they
depend on the rubber seals to roll-back a little, to pull the pad away
from the rotor on one side, and the floating pins to let the caliper
slide back to release the other side due to run-out (the slight wobble
and out-of-roundness) of the rotor.
It doesn't take many miles before the rubber seals take a "set" and
don't pull back, and the sliding pins for the caliper get dirty and
rusty and so don't slide.
So, 99% of cars with more than 10k miles on them will have dragging brakes.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike wrote:
I hear about "zero" drag disk brakes, but don't really know what this
means (I do understand the intent). Is it some sort of positively
controlled retraction of the pads for the rotors?...
Are the multi-piston (caliper) designs from after market manufacturers
like Baer, Wilwood etc. a better choice?
We've done some research on this for our Sunrise EV. Some Wilwood
aftermarket disk brakes do indeed have a) actual return springs to pull
the pad away from the rotor, b) a fixed caliper, with separate pistons
for the pad on both sides, and c) larger pistons, and even multiple
pistons on each side, so you can get excellent braking force without a
vacuum booster.
These are all very attractive features for an EV! We will use stock
T'Bird brakes that come with our donor car for the first prototype; but
then try the Wilwood brakes to see if these benefits are real.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
but, back to Robert's question - what is the wait on the Zilla - and are
there any other options other than the long wait for the Zilla or the ready
to go aflame Curtis?!??!?!?
thanks, in advance, for any and all e-plies -
until next INTERNEcTion -
take care (and spread it around) -
peace,
andy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: Newest Curtis controllers OK to buy now for 120V EV? Or, go
with Zilla controller?
For an S-15 I'd go 26 batteries and a 156v Zilla. Lawrence Rhodes.
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert mat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 8:14 PM
Subject: Newest Curtis controllers OK to buy now for 120V EV? Or, go with
Zilla controller?
- What is the bullet-proof 120V controller for an S-15
EV, in your experience?
Thanks in advance for all suggestions.
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/778 - Release Date: 4/27/2007
1:39 PM
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steve,
I have an E title in the State of Colorado for my 1994 Kawasaki EV. The
Motor Vehicle folks we easy enough to work with although it did take 3 trips
to get all of the pieces in place. Advice: provide minimal information
outside of what is needed to get the E motive designation.
- Mike B
DEVC / EAA Colorado
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Dymaxion
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 2:45 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: corvette conversion
Sometimes kit car guys will title in another, friendlier state, and then
transfer their cars to their home state. I don't know the legalities
involved, consult a lawyer first.
Utah was easy, I just said I wanted to title the car as electric, and they
said sure and put an 'E' on the title. The car will be verified it is
electric each year when it gets a safety inspection (I don't have to do smog
tests).
----- Original Message ----
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 11:11:33 PM
Subject: Re: corvette conversion
I did the california referee station. it was cool. The guy who asnwers
the help line had an electric rabbit at one time.
The process is in place to change the motive code to electric and exempt
you from future smog tests. They need to see it and the reciepts to
prove that you are not switching it to electric to get the exemption
then switch it back.
The referee here in Fresno is at the vocational school and the had me
get there early and do a show-n-tell for the students.
A very pleasurable process except for the DMV still hasn't returned my
reciepts. They wanted the originals, but next time they get copies. They
cost me a tax exemption.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 4/29/07, mclTunes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Are there any active EV groups near Binghamton or Ithaca NY? For that
matter is there a directory somewhere of EV groups?
Thanks...
-- Mark Lepkowski
If you find any let me know!
I'm in Alfred, NY which is south of Rochester and west of Ithaca.
--
Martin Klingensmith
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This did the trick, thanks! After a 5 week hiatus, the grin is back....
On 4/28/07, rod dilkes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
You might like to try this:
With the car OFF put your foot on the accelerator pedal and push it all the
way down. Do this 10 times. You could also do it by manually actuating the
pot box arm all the way to full throttle.
Then try the car again.
Sometimes the contacts on the pot get dirty and wiping the arm all the way
seems to clean them. EVers tend to be light on the gas so never usually use
the whole extent of the throttle.
Do this three times every 10 rides or so. It works for me...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
As part of the efforts to analyze the energy needs of a PHEV I plan to
build, I am using a handheld GPS to track my daily commute in my ICE-powered
Miata.
Some observations I've made to far, in hopes that they will assist others:
1. My GPS is very accurate for latitude and longitude, but shows lots of
noise in the altitude record. So, I've been working to discover the right
averaging algorithm.
2. To correctly calculate the total energy demand along a path from start
to end, you cannot simply subtract the lower elevation from the higher.
Each uphill climb must be taken into account. My evening drive home is a
150 ft climb according to the delta in map elevations, but a 550 ft total
climb when taking into account all of the ups and downs.
3. Driving style, traffic, and the number of traffic lights will impact the
battery drain due to acceleration. I am also pulling this data from the GPS
and will then have to develop some statistics on it, to build my version of
the Federal mileage test.
Other thoughts on this?
-----Original Message-----
[snip]
Let's dream a little... If the car has a navigation system, and the
driver enters where he's going, the car can (theoretically) figure out
how much energy it will take to drive there. It can tell you before you
leave if you have a good chance of making it. It could advise you that
you won't make it if you take the freeway at 70 mph, but will if you
take the side streets at 40 mph.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 4/29/07, Dr. Andy Mars <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
but, back to Robert's question - what is the wait on the Zilla - and are
there any other options other than the long wait for the Zilla or the ready
to go aflame Curtis?!??!?!?
thanks, in advance, for any and all e-plies -
until next INTERNEcTion -
take care (and spread it around) -
peace,
andy
According to the cafe electric site, the current waiting time is about 6 months.
Somebody should toss that guy a million bucks or something :)
--T
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Focus on the batteries and put aside any drive system design efforts at first.
A very small two-seat airplane needs about 65 HP. This is 746x65 ~ 50 kW.
You would like to fly for about an hour, so this is about a 50 kW-hr pack.
The very highest energy $tate-of-the-art Li-Ion cell$ (that will turn
into flamethrowers given the opportunity,) approach 200 W-hr/kg. Your
50 kW-hr pack will weigh at least 250 kg = 550 lbs.
Now you understand why there are not any electric airplanes.
You could possibly do this with a LongEZ by giving up the
passenger seat.
Bill Dube'
At 11:01 AM 4/29/2007, you wrote:
I have thoroughly enjoyed reading all the great things you guys are
building. You guys really seem to know what you are doing. I am
building an electric aircraft and am hoping someone might help me
figure a few things out. I have three motor options I think will
work for my prototype. The Briggs+Stratton Etek brushless, the Perm
PMG-132 w/bushes, and the Lemco Lem-200 w/brushes.
Because the Etek is brushless is it quieter? Is it more energy
efficient? Does anyone know the efficiency % of the new brushless Etek?
Which motor will drain the batteries the quickest. One that runs on
72volts and 110Amps or one using 48volts and 165amps?
The motor will only need to run at full power for the first
2mins. After that it will mostly run at percentages around 65% to
80% and occasionally at 0 to descend and full power to climb.
Are there any battery packs available commercially that weigh less
then 50 lbs that could power such a set up for at least
30min? LiPo? A123? Could someone show me how to calculate how much
battery power I will need? Can I run these batteries all the way
down or do I need to recharge before they are completely
drained. Thanks for the help and great message board. -Mike
________________________________________________________________________
Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and
industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Mark,
The short answer is no. It's practically an EV black hole around here.
The long answer is there should be, but the hills and weather are often
presumed to be too difficult for EV usage. Given that, I'm just not sure
if there are enough ACTIVE people concentrated within a reasonable 50
mile radius to sustain a viable group. Maybe there are and I don't know it.
I'm just outside Ithaca. This neck of the woods is very progressive with
regard to other topics yet I only know of 3 or 4 electric vehicles up
here. One of them is mine. I know little of the Binghamton area other
than a high school down there has a couple of electrics. There could be
more. I'm still fairly new to the area.
In my travels I've found the EVDL to be just as effective in locating EV
people as the Electric Auto Association (EAA). Sometimes there are
non-EAA-affiliated websites or clubs that can help you out. If you can
find any sort of organization you'll always find others who surprise
you. Here's the link to the EAA... http://www.eaaev.org
I have a directory of clubs and organizations on my site on this page...
http://www.megawattmotorworks.com/defaultlinksb.asp?tree=536
As I write this I'm in the garage sitting in front of my electric car
getting it ready for summer. You and anyone else in the area are always
welcomed to contact me offlist... maybe even stop by?
Best regards,
-Dave Stensland
Slaterville Springs, NY
http://www.megawattmotorworks.com
mclTunes wrote:
Are there any active EV groups near Binghamton or Ithaca NY? For that
matter is there a directory somewhere of EV groups?
Thanks...
-- Mark Lepkowski
--- End Message ---
