EV Digest 6718
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Brake drag
by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: HARD TIME ON CURTIS WARRANTY CLAIM? (WAS Re: Newest Curtis
controllers OK to buy now for 120V EV? Or, go with Zilla controller?)
by robert mat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: HARD TIME ON CURTIS WARRANTY CLAIM? (WAS Re: Newest Curtis
controllers OK to buy now for 120V EV? Or, go with Zilla controller?)
by robert mat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: corvette conversion
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Truncated EVDL messages in the Archive
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: corvette conversion
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
7) Re: corvette conversion
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Re: Nationwide Insurance Co... Help!
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
9) Re: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
11) RE: ADC 6.7 redline - now rev limiter
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Suspension and weight distribution
by "John O'Connor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Controller experiences
by "Richard Acuti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Jay Leno's Baker EV
by nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Dead start acceleration issues
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs)
by "Rick Todd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Controller experiences
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks, everyone, for the info. I'll try a rebuild kit for now; I'm not
exactly happy with the free rotation of the rotor without calipers, and
after attaching the drive arm everything got incredible difficult. I'm
considering a rebuild of the brakes, possibly replacing the entire
spindle (since the bearings are sealed in, and there's no maintenance
procedures in any of the manuals), possibly new, bigger brakes, and even
modifications to add springs to the two rails that the calipers slide on.
I appreciate all the help!
Jude Anthony
Lee Hart wrote:
Mike wrote:
I hear about "zero" drag disk brakes, but don't really know what this
means (I do understand the intent). Is it some sort of positively
controlled retraction of the pads for the rotors?...
Are the multi-piston (caliper) designs from after market manufacturers
like Baer, Wilwood etc. a better choice?
We've done some research on this for our Sunrise EV. Some Wilwood
aftermarket disk brakes do indeed have a) actual return springs to
pull the pad away from the rotor, b) a fixed caliper, with separate
pistons for the pad on both sides, and c) larger pistons, and even
multiple pistons on each side, so you can get excellent braking force
without a vacuum booster.
These are all very attractive features for an EV! We will use stock
T'Bird brakes that come with our donor car for the first prototype;
but then try the Wilwood brakes to see if these benefits are real.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Roger, just a slight correction: The 132V voltage
at the time of the controller failure was an ACTUAL
multimeter reading, and the pack is a 120V nominal
pack.
No fireworks, though, as the aptly-named Sparky EV's
Fourth-of-July-like Curtis controller burn out. He was
also using a third-gear "automatic" transmission.
Apparently, the ammeter cannot be trusted on
EV's -- have you read his post? A clamp ammeter saw
900A, if my memory of the Sparky EV post is correct,
whereas the dashboard ammeter shows low amps.
I'm planning to use a clamp ammeter to see how
inaccurate the dashboard ammeter is, at low speeds.
Cheers.
--- Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Lee Hart wrote:
>
> > The Curtis 1221C-7401 (rated 72-120v) controller
> has 160v
> > rated electrolytics. The Curtis 1231C-8601 (rated
> 96-144v)
> > has 200v electrolytics. A decent charger should
> never reach
> > these voltages; however, crude ones can go this
> high.
>
> 160V is 2.67V/cell on a 120V pack. For Trojan
> floodeds this is the
> normal charge voltage at -20C, and is a level than
> can be reached during
> the constant current finish/equalise portion of a
> charge cycle even at
> normal temperatures (though 2.5-2.6V/cell is
> probably more typical).
>
> Bob appears to have been pushing the limits of his
> 1221B by using a 132V
> nominal pack, and the 160V rating of the caps would
> have been reached at
> a completely normal 2.43V/cell level... except that
> the caps were
> already almost 12years old and so probably even 160V
> may have been
> pushing it for them.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Roger.
>
>
Photo link: Using the world's first licensed
Revived Battery electric pickup truck
for everyday errandshttp://my-ev-diary.blogspot.com/
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--- Begin Message ---
The info below from Lee Hart is excellent, especially
for those of us in the Wet Coast.
How can silicon caulk be used to seal the Curtis
controller then?
BTW, I'm thinking of also using small CPU fans around
the controller -- that trick has saved my Ego-II motor
from continual bolt pop offs.
But, first, the "rain" from condensation on the hood
has to be addressed. When the morning sun hits the
hood, it rains inside!
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The Curtis case only *looks* like it is sealed. In
> no time at all, they develop cracks between the case
> and potting compound in the ends. Another common
> reason I see for controller failures is from water
> inside the case.
Photo link: Using the world's first licensed
Revived Battery electric pickup truck
for everyday errandshttp://my-ev-diary.blogspot.com/
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--- Begin Message ---
On 30 Apr 2007 at 15:04, Timothy Balcer wrote:
> Folks may correct me on this but Gels are not that great for EV use.
High quality gel batteries such as East Penn are very well matched and long
lived where the current is kept reasonably low (3C or so). A high voltage,
low current AC system mates well with most gel batteries.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
On 30 Apr 2007 at 10:33, robert mat wrote:
> I just looked in the archive
> http://www.mail-archive.com/ev@listproc.sjsu.edu/
> and noticed that many of the messages there are
> truncated, with this message:
>
> * ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED---
> *
> * This post contains a forbidden message format ...
You can tell the price of gasoline is up even if you don't have an ICE,
because the EVDL is getting lots of new subscribers. Many of them aren't
posting in plain text, and the above message is the result (for now).
As soon as I see them posting in html or multipart/alternative, I email them
with a request to change to plain text. However, they usually send several
html messages to the list before I can get to them.
Hang on, Mailman is coming to your nearby SJSU server Real Soon Now (tm),
and it seems to handle html mail much more rationally.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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* This post contains a forbidden message format *
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi Shawn, with a 4.22 rear end ratio I would think you are about right for
gearing. The problem with your motor going to sleep is that it is probably a
high voltage motor. You should try a large 48 volt fork lift motor. At 96
volts it would wake up. If you could find a 24 volt one that would be even
better. Just a thought if you want to get serious about the 96 volt record.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
Is this the Jack that has the 96 volt SC record. If so then congrats.
It will be tough to win back. There aren't alot of gearing options for
a 1957 Metropolitan floating around and the thing is just geared too
darn low. I have only hit 50-52 at 96 volts flat out. It's really
quick off the line then falls on it's face about 40 mph.
Shawn
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
Good luck on your racing Shawn!
Jack.
----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 8:31 AM
Subject: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
BAD NEWS
> It's looks as though our new "Juiced Up" dragster will not be ready
for > the PODC this year. At least not in the form I would be satisfied
> bringing it to an official NEDRA event. Four nine inch motors, four
2K > Zillas, and 3000+ battery cells with full regulation presents some
> challenges. The Zillas our here on the shelf, the motors should be
here > by the end of May, and I am not ready to share final details of
the > battery pack at the time being, but rest assured "Juiced Up" will
be > completed, tested, tuned and at a NEDRA asap. I had considered
bringing > it with me to PODC in an incomplete state but don't see the
purpose in > that.
> GOOD NEWS So what to do with four new 2K Zillas while they wait for
> their new
> home. I installed one in AGNS last week. She ran a 14.7 @ 85 on >
Saturday at 84 volts. Darin and Piranha have moved up to 96 volts so it
> will be a class shootout in Maryland on June 3! A guy from Texas took
> the 96 volt record held by the Electropolitan last fall so I found a
> temporary home for Zilla#2. Not sure what 2000 amps will do to that >
tiny little rear axle in but I have a spare one just in case. We will >
have her at PODC as well. OJ is going to have to carry the water one >
more time for us in the dragster category and will be there withe not >
only a 2K, but, (are you listening Rudman?) an nice green box that >
doesn't shock the %&*# out of you while charging. We're still looking >
for that elusive 240 volt 10.55 number......
> Shawn Lawless
________________________________________________________________________
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>
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Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
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Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.5.4/768 - Release Date: 4/19/2007
5:32 AM
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Rod watt's up? Believe it or not the Electropolitan's motor is a
giant Prestolite 48 volt fork truck prototype motor I got from their
lab many years ago. I think it was for some high torque, low speed
direct drive system. Running around town at 120 volts and a top speed
of 65 mph it is perfect. Gobs of torque and it never even gets warm.
I'll bet it would come alive if I ran a 240 volt system but I really
don't want to go 100+ in that thing. Any chance you can fly over to DC
for the PODC?
Shawn
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Tue, 1 May 2007 1:40 AM
Subject: Re: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
Hi Shawn, with a 4.22 rear end ratio I would think you are about right
for gearing. The problem with your motor going to sleep is that it is
probably a high voltage motor. You should try a large 48 volt fork lift
motor. At 96 volts it would wake up. If you could find a 24 volt one
that would be even better. Just a thought if you want to get serious
about the 96 volt record.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
Is this the Jack that has the 96 volt SC record. If so then congrats.
It will be tough to win back. There aren't alot of gearing options for
a 1957 Metropolitan floating around and the thing is just geared too
darn low. I have only hit 50-52 at 96 volts flat out. It's really
quick off the line then falls on it's face about 40 mph.
Shawn
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
Good luck on your racing Shawn!
Jack.
----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 8:31 AM
Subject: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
BAD NEWS
> It's looks as though our new "Juiced Up" dragster will not be ready
for > the PODC this year. At least not in the form I would be satisfied
bringing it to an official NEDRA event. Four nine inch motors, four
2K > Zillas, and 3000+ battery cells with full regulation presents some
challenges. The Zillas our here on the shelf, the motors should be
here > by the end of May, and I am not ready to share final details of
the > battery pack at the time being, but rest assured "Juiced Up" will
be > completed, tested, tuned and at a NEDRA asap. I had considered
bringing > it with me to PODC in an incomplete state but don't see the
purpose in > that.
> GOOD NEWS So what to do with four new 2K Zillas while they wait for
> their new
home. I installed one in AGNS last week. She ran a 14.7 @ 85 on >
Saturday at 84 volts. Darin and Piranha have moved up to 96 volts so it
will be a class shootout in Maryland on June 3! A guy from Texas took
the 96 volt record held by the Electropolitan last fall so I found a
temporary home for Zilla#2. Not sure what 2000 amps will do to that >
tiny little rear axle in but I have a spare one just in case. We will >
have her at PODC as well. OJ is going to have to carry the water one >
more time for us in the dragster category and will be there withe not >
only a 2K, but, (are you listening Rudman?) an nice green box that >
doesn't shock the %&*# out of you while charging. We're still looking >
for that elusive 240 volt 10.55 number......
> Shawn Lawless
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's
free > from AOL at AOL.com.
>
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
=0
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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.5.4/768 - Release Date:
4/19/2007 5:32 AM
________________________________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roger- thanks for you comments. It's good to get feedback before installing
this.
My rev limiter (for the first stage) shorts the potbox with a relay. My
thinking was that this is the same thing that happens when you let off on
the "go" pedal ( pot goes to zero ohms) . But - I think your suggestion is
better: I'll have the relay drop resistor across it (maybe 2K ohms) to
simulate a reduced pedal depression.
I'll also change the RPM limits ( resetting trimpots) to avoid the second
stage tripping so soon after the first. I should probably lower the first
stage trip point to 5000 RPM or so. I've got a low voltage system (108 V)
so I won't be driving the motor to high RPM normally anyway.
Even though the second stage limiter cutting in would likely mean there was
a controller failure, I would rather not disable the system. I don't want
to lose power in traffic unnecessarily. I'll drop the second stage reset
point to about 3000 RPM to reduce cycling. I don't want to drop it too
low, since having the contactor pull back in at a very low RPM would mean
higher currents when the contactor closed ( more likely to weld the
contactor) if there were a controller failure
And, in case of a controller "full-on" failure, a press on the brake ( the
most normal first reaction to a runaway) would keep the positive contactor
open to prevent cycling. And, there's always the ignition key ( drops both
pos and neg contactors) and, if all else fails, the clutch.
I haven't tested the limiter in the car (my car is not on the road yet )
although I have tested the limiter on the bench.
Phil
From: "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: RE: ADC 6.7 redline - now rev limiter
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 16:17:22 -0700
Phil Marino wrote:
> I'm using a setup similar to what Randy ( Canev) mentioned
> here some time ago.
CanEV uses/sells an ISSPRO 2-stage limiter.
> It's a two-step limiter. The first step (at 5500 RPM)
> disconnects the throttle pot. This has a deadband of
> about 500 Hz, so the throttle comes back when the motor
> RPM drops to 5000 RPM.
Danger: your controller may not be particularly happy about the throttle
pot going open or short (depending on what you mean by "disconnect"). I
believe that a safer approach is to connect a fixed resistor in parallel
with the potbox when the first setpoint is exceeded. Choose the fixed
resistor value such that it will reduce the throttle command to a modest
value.
> The second step is at 5800 RPM. Here, the KSI terminal and
> main ( positive side) contactor drop out. This one has a
> bigger dead band, and won't reset the KSI and contactor
> until the RPM drops to about 4800 HZ. This should prevent
> contactor "buzzing". This is pretty much in case of
> controller failure ( or, stuck potbox, jammed throttle
> cable, etc)
Have you tested the rev limiter yet? I wonder if these setpoints might
be too close together since it will take some time for the rev limiter
to sense that 5500RPM has been exceeded and to respond, and if the RPM
rises sufficiently rapidly it might trip the second point before the
first setpoint has time to control it.
I think it might be preferable to have the second step latch off and
allow the motor to come back on until the driver resets the system (e.g.
ign off/on).
I figure that if the system is working properly, the second step would
only ever be exercised in the event that the first step failed to reduce
the RPM, which would suggest that the controller wasn't responding to
the potbox signal. I'm pretty sure one wouldn't want the vehicle to
surge between 4800 and 5800RPM at full power (possibly in excess of
whatever current limit the controller had) in the event of a full-power
controller failure, and it might take relatively few such cycles before
the main contactor is welded closed and the runaway becomes completely
uncontrolled. It might take many seconds for the motor speed to drop
from 5800 to 4800, so just as the driver breathes a sigh of relief, the
power comes back on and the vehicle takes off again ;^>
Cheers,
Roger.
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--- Begin Message ---
I wrote this back on the 20th and got great response about ways to
raise the rear ride height. Dave H. responded with concern about
putting all the batteries in the bed because of what it does to the
front end. I went ahead and connected up all my components and made a
few proof of concept movements around the driveway under battery
power, and now I am back to my weight distribution issue.
Based on the response from mid april, it would seem that I can fix my
rear ride height with additional springs, but I now share Dave H's
issue about the front end. I don't know much about autos but it
doesn't seem that anything but additional weight in the front can fix
that end. Are there adjustments that can be made to the suspension of
truck to shift weight forward?
I temporarily put 4 of my batteries up in the engine compartment and
it "looks" much better. The from ride height is close to where it was
pre conversion, but the rear is still low. Currently the weight of
the 4 batteries is being distributed to the old engine mounts that
are about even with the front wheels. If I put permanently put
batteries up from thel will be forward of the front wheels so 4 may
be the right number.
I wanted to keep all the batteries in the bed because it seemed
easier, but also so they would all be in one location to have 1
insulated battery box for temperature consistency. (I am in Western MA)
Was I being overly concerned about maintaining consistent battery
temperatures? (I'm using Interstate flooded lead)
Am I correct that if I insulate some of my batteries I need to
insulate them all?
Having to rearrange everything would be a bit of a disappointing
setback but I fear I may have to.
On Apr 20, 2007, at 10:07 PM, John O'Connor wrote:
HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM.
I loaded all my batteries in the back of my pick-up conversion
(http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/791 ) and I see that the rear end
is riding very low. Looking back at my project notebook, the rear
end has dropped about 4 inches and the front is about 1 inch
higher. Am I likely to be able to "fix" this situation with a trip
to a suspension shop?
John
Hopefully making an inaugural EV trip this weekend
(at least I was able to make the inaugral EV trip in the driveway!)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm following the thread on Curtis controller failures and possible Zilla
replacement and I have a question;
I've considered purchasing a Zilla 1k but it seems to me that it would be a
waste of money with my configuration. That's not a slam on the Zilla
product, but more of a slam on my own batteries.
Using a Curtis 1221b on my 128v pack of 8 volt batteries, if I accelerate
hard enough, I can cause a voltage sag deep enough to draw the pack down to
below 100 volts or, 1.56 volts per cell which is considered by many people
to be too low and damaging to the batteries. 8 volt batts, having less
capacity, are less tolerant of heavy loading. On top of all this, my motor
is only an ADC 6.7". If I pour major amps through it, I might eat my brushes
much faster.
My point or question is, the Curtis can only draw 400 amps for 2 minutes and
coincidentally that seems to be the safe limit for my batteries as well. Is
there any point to buying a Zilla 1k when I can't use it at even half of
it's capacity? I realize that the Zilla also provides some cool indications
and diagnostic functions but is there some other ability I'm missing that
would make it worth the money to upgrade?
I'm building the E-Beetle Mk II (in the process of removing ICE junk now)
and I'm considering a different configuration from my other Bug:
8" ADC motor
1231 500 amp Curtis OR Zilla 1k
16 or 17, 6 volt batts for 96 or 102 volts
My top speed now is 65-70 mph with a range of 40-50 miles @ 45 mph using the
8v batteries.
If I shifted to 6 volt batteries with a Zilla set for 700 amps max draw,
could I achieve 65 mph and a range of at least 40 miles?
Rich
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--- Begin Message ---
Popular Mechanics have just done an article on Jay Leno and his Baker
EV which is just about 100 years old :)
Go Popular Mechanics! Well done!
http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/jay_leno_garage/
4215940.html?nav=RSS20
Nikki.
_______________________________
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Visit aminorjourney.com to see the transformation from Hebe to EV.
E-minor isn't just a key any more...
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--- Begin Message ---
I'm getting a similar issue, but rather it is a
_severe_ drop in voltage. Ie, it goes down to 90V
from a 144V pack, even when I accelerate slowly.
Would brush issues account for _that?_
I'd been told by the seller of the motor that the
brushes had been properly seated. The car runs in all
circumstances. It does not do the voltage drop in all
circumstances.
The only other thing I can figure is that I still
need to drop the Imax on this new controller. E-meter
says I'm pulling up to 320A out of them, and perhaps
this is causing temporary drop in useable
electrolyte...?
Other ideas?
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> From: Michael Barkley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Hello All: I've performed an EV conversion on a
> 94'
> > Mitsubishi Eclipse, using an Aircraft Generator,
> > and an AXE 7245 controller @ 72vdc, I am having an
> > issue with dead start acceleration at very
> inconvenient
> > times... Any ideas on what could cause this?
>
> Clearly, there is a bad connection somewhere. I
> doubt it's in the
> aircraft generator's field circuit, because a loss
> of field current
> causes HUGE peak current, and would blow fuses or
> circuit breakers (you
> do *have* a fuse or circuit breaker, don't you? :-)
>
> The motor could be losing armature power anywhere in
> the wiring through
> the batteries, to the controller, from controller to
> motor, or in the
> motor itself.
>
> Often, a bad connection will not go completely open,
> but instead will go
> to a high resistance. This makes it get hot! You can
> find bad
> connections from their temperature rise after one of
> these "events". For
> instance, you might feel the connections to the
> batteries, controller,
> contactor, motor, etc.
>
> Failing that, I'd diagnose it by connecting a
> voltmeter to different
> points in the circuit. Leave it in while you are
> driving. When the
> problem occurs, see if you still have voltage to
> that point. If so, then
> the problem is after that point. If the voltage *is*
> going away, then
> the problem is somewhere before that point. For
> example, you can check
> the voltage of the battery pack as a whole, at the
> controller input,
> controller output, and at the motor itself.
>
> Another possibility; if this is an old motor that's
> been lying around,
> you may have a dirty commutator or broken brush
> spring. Inspect the
> commutator, and see if the brushes are moving freely
> in their holders.
>
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
> leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi Shawn,
Do you have a part number for that Prestolite
prototype? I might recognize it.
Thanks,
Jeff
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hey Rod watt's up? Believe it or not the
> Electropolitan's motor is a
> giant Prestolite 48 volt fork truck prototype motor
> I got from their
> lab many years ago. I think it was for some high
> torque, low speed
> direct drive system. Running around town at 120
> volts and a top speed
> of 65 mph it is perfect. Gobs of torque and it
> never even gets warm.
> I'll bet it would come alive if I ran a 240 volt
> system but I really
> don't want to go 100+ in that thing. Any chance you
> can fly over to DC
> for the PODC?
>
> Shawn
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Sent: Tue, 1 May 2007 1:40 AM
> Subject: Re: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
>
> Hi Shawn, with a 4.22 rear end ratio I would think
> you are about right
> for gearing. The problem with your motor going to
> sleep is that it is
> probably a high voltage motor. You should try a
> large 48 volt fork lift
> motor. At 96 volts it would wake up. If you could
> find a 24 volt one
> that would be even better. Just a thought if you
> want to get serious
> about the 96 volt record.
>
> Roderick Wilde
> "Suck Amps EV Racing"
> www.suckamps.com
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From:
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 6:33 PM
> Subject: Re: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
>
> Is this the Jack that has the 96 volt SC record. If
> so then congrats.
> It will be tough to win back. There aren't alot of
> gearing options for
> a 1957 Metropolitan floating around and the thing is
> just geared too
> darn low. I have only hit 50-52 at 96 volts flat
> out. It's really
> quick off the line then falls on it's face about 40
> mph.
>
> Shawn
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 10:36 AM
> Subject: Re: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
>
> Good luck on your racing Shawn!
> Jack.
> ----- Original Message ----- From:
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 8:31 AM
> Subject: No "Juiced Up" at PODC
>
> > BAD NEWS
> > > It's looks as though our new "Juiced Up"
> dragster will not be ready
> for > the PODC this year. At least not in the form I
> would be satisfied
> > bringing it to an official NEDRA event. Four nine
> inch motors, four
> 2K > Zillas, and 3000+ battery cells with full
> regulation presents some
> > challenges. The Zillas our here on the shelf, the
> motors should be
> here > by the end of May, and I am not ready to
> share final details of
> the > battery pack at the time being, but rest
> assured "Juiced Up" will
> be > completed, tested, tuned and at a NEDRA asap. I
> had considered
> bringing > it with me to PODC in an incomplete state
> but don't see the
> purpose in > that.
> > > GOOD NEWS So what to do with four new 2K Zillas
> while they wait for
> > > their new
> > home. I installed one in AGNS last week. She ran a
> 14.7 @ 85 on >
> Saturday at 84 volts. Darin and Piranha have moved
> up to 96 volts so it
> > will be a class shootout in Maryland on June 3! A
> guy from Texas took
> > the 96 volt record held by the Electropolitan last
> fall so I found a
> > temporary home for Zilla#2. Not sure what 2000
> amps will do to that >
> tiny little rear axle in but I have a spare one just
> in case. We will >
> have her at PODC as well. OJ is going to have to
> carry the water one >
> more time for us in the dragster category and will
> be there withe not >
> only a 2K, but, (are you listening Rudman?) an nice
> green box that >
> doesn't shock the %&*# out of you while charging.
> We're still looking >
> for that elusive 240 volt 10.55 number......
> > > Shawn Lawless
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
>
> > AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out
> more about what's
> free > from AOL at AOL.com.
> > >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more
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> =0
>
>
> -- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.5.4/768 -
> Release Date:
> 4/19/2007 5:32 AM
>
>
>
>
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>
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I know that building an EV was top on my list for helping to contribute less
to global warming. However, I know that many people have concerns about
where they get their power from. I living in Illinois found out that I do
not have the choice to buy renewable energy directly from my power company
unless I buy many Megawatts at a time, which I cannot afford. So to make a
long story short I found that Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) do the
same thing as buying the power from renewable. So now technically I will be
charging my EV with Wind power on the electrical Grid from www.3phases.com
. Does anybody else know about REC's and did I get the explanation correct?
Hope to see more people doing this in the future.
Best Regards,
Rick Todd
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Richard,
The Zilla is a boost type of controller. Your battery ampere will be less
than you motor ampere. Lets say your motor is rated at 200 amps continuous
duty and you held that ampere, the battery ampere will be about 50 amps.
This depends on the voltage of your batteries and the overall gear ratio you
have.
I am running a 180 v pack using 30 T-145's in a 7000 lb EV. In 1st gear I
have a 19.5:1 overall ratio and if I accelerated like a normal ICE, the
maximum ampere goes to about 300 amps and my battery amperes is at 75 amps.
After acceleration to about 35 mph the motor ampere comes back to about 150
motor amps and the battery amps is about 40 amps shifting in to 2nd gear
which is now 13.5:1 overall ratio.
Slowing accelerating to 50 mph, my motor ampere may peak to 400 amps and
battery amps at 250 amps which is for about 10 seconds. After accelerating
and shifting to 3rd gear which is a 5.57:1 overall ratio, the motor ampere
is now at 195 amps and battery amperes is 175 amps.
With the Zilla, I limit my battery ampere to 400 amps and motor ampere to
600 amps. I have never got above 250 battery amps and 500 motor amperes
which was for a very short time which is less than 10 seconds.
Otmar of Café Electric was scare that I would burn out a Zilla 1K in my 7000
lb EV. I said, I have the gear ratios, to keep the amperes at a level I
want. I been driving with a CableForm controller for about 12 years in a
8000 lb EV with granney gear ratios that I can accelerated up to 60 mph at
about 600 motor amperes and cruising at 60 mph at 180 motor and battery
amps.
Type in your data in Uve's Electric Vehicle Calculator at
http://www.geocities.com/hempev/EVCalculator.html?200629
This site lists the Zilla controller and the type of vehicle you are
driving.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Acuti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 6:30 AM
Subject: Controller experiences
> I'm following the thread on Curtis controller failures and possible Zilla
> replacement and I have a question;
>
> I've considered purchasing a Zilla 1k but it seems to me that it would be
> a
> waste of money with my configuration. That's not a slam on the Zilla
> product, but more of a slam on my own batteries.
>
> Using a Curtis 1221b on my 128v pack of 8 volt batteries, if I accelerate
> hard enough, I can cause a voltage sag deep enough to draw the pack down
> to
> below 100 volts or, 1.56 volts per cell which is considered by many people
> to be too low and damaging to the batteries. 8 volt batts, having less
> capacity, are less tolerant of heavy loading. On top of all this, my motor
> is only an ADC 6.7". If I pour major amps through it, I might eat my
> brushes
> much faster.
>
> My point or question is, the Curtis can only draw 400 amps for 2 minutes
> and
> coincidentally that seems to be the safe limit for my batteries as well.
> Is
> there any point to buying a Zilla 1k when I can't use it at even half of
> it's capacity? I realize that the Zilla also provides some cool
> indications
> and diagnostic functions but is there some other ability I'm missing that
> would make it worth the money to upgrade?
>
> I'm building the E-Beetle Mk II (in the process of removing ICE junk now)
> and I'm considering a different configuration from my other Bug:
>
> 8" ADC motor
> 1231 500 amp Curtis OR Zilla 1k
> 16 or 17, 6 volt batts for 96 or 102 volts
>
> My top speed now is 65-70 mph with a range of 40-50 miles @ 45 mph using
> the
> 8v batteries.
> If I shifted to 6 volt batteries with a Zilla set for 700 amps max draw,
> could I achieve 65 mph and a range of at least 40 miles?
>
> Rich
>
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