EV Digest 6748
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: PFC-20
by MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: motor wiring
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: FW: motor wiring
by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: PFC-20
by "Peter Gabrielsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: PFC-20
by "Randy Burleson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) k&W BC-20 chargers for sale
by "Peter Gabrielsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Electric Mini Cooper Videos
by "joe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Replacing One Battery
by Joseph Lado <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Brake Rear Pressure Porportioning Valve, TOPIC CHANGE Zilla
Tach
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
11) Questions regarding an EV
by "Mark Karatovic" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Brake Rear Pressure Porportioning Valve, TOPIC CHANGE Zilla Tach
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Two motor clarifications [like the killacycle]
by Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
by Mark Dutko <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: PFC-20
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: EV Drag Racing Ideas
by Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Brake Rear Pressure Porportioning Valve, TOPIC CHANGE Zilla Tach
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Can anyone recommend a machinist in Los Angeles?
by Tony Hwang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Questions regarding an EV
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Rich,
what about just bringing it out towards the face plate a little more. Not
quite enought to turn it with a fingernail, but enough you can see the slot
looking down at it from a 45 degree angle?
How about having a toggle switch and two set points, "Normal" and "Equalize".
Then you could leave the pots buried way down in there and hard to get at.
Really the only time I need to routinely change the voltage is during the
monthly equalize.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tuesday, May 8, 2007 10:05 am
Subject: Re: PFC-20
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Bob.. not gonna be any down time here... I will turn it in
> minutes... not
> months...
> My promise...
>
> I will set it for 150 volts...
> And send you a pot screwdriver...
>
> Rich Rudman
> Manzanita Micro
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 5:59 AM
> Subject: Re: PFC-20
>
>
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> > Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 5:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: PFC-20
> >
> >
> > > Maybe something more along the lines of this?
> > >
> > >
> http://www.specialized.net/ecommerce/shop/layout.asp?product%5Fid=318X805
> > > Thanks Ryan for the link!
> >
> > But why do I hafta? Dumb design, to begin with! The
> "Floating" pot,
> too.
> > This issue I had before. Rich are ya listing? Put a simple shaft
> extender> and KNOB on the panel, to keep us fumble finger guyz OUT
> of the Green
> > Box!!My biggest beef with a superb charger. All I want to do is
> set the
> high
> > est voltage that I want the charger to go to, then shut off.
> Haven't tried
> > to decipher the timing feature, yet.EVen if it doesn't shut
> down, just
> float
> > the voltage about 150 volts for a 120 volt car.I havent had a
> chance to
> take
> > it apart to TRY to fix it. Don't like to mess with it almost as
> much as
> the
> > damn down time shipping it Out West again.
> >
> > End of Rant
> >
> > Bob
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tim,
I put in a few comments....
--- Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> Your first and second sentences go well together.
>
> I am quite familiar with the GE drive motor. It IS a
> compound wound motor, the series field is wired
> internally, and reversing the shunt field DOES
> reverse the direction of rotation.
Yea, you reverse the polarity on the field, not the
motor.
> Reversing the
> field also weakens the series field.
I'd say the series field weakens the shunt field.
Which is not desirable. So pulling a heavy load in
reverse will draw a lot of current.
> The reason it
> does this is because the shunt field is much larger
> than the series field. I'm thinking the other motor
> may be the same thing but with a large series field
> and a smaller shunt field.
>
> I realize that in these motors the use of the term
> "shunt field" is probably not accurate.
No, I think that is what it is.
> Should I
> call it the compensation windings?
No, the compensating winding is different. It is
larger diameter wire in series with the armature but
is through the center of the pole instead of wrapped
around it like a field coil.
> If the comp is
> larger than the series, is it still a comp?
Sounds like you confuse compound with compensating.
The two are separate issues. Compound means both
series and shunt windings in the same motor,
regardless of the strength of each, or the polarity of
each. Like your drive motor is cumulative compound in
forward and differential compound in reverse. Some
compound motors have more shunt, some have more
series. Compensating windings are similar to
interpoles, but serve a somewhat different function.
Compensating windings are used to counteract armature
distortion and help maintain speed regulation in shunt
motors.
Acutally the drive motor may be a *Shunt Compensated
Winding* instead of a compound motor. Meaning that
there are no series turns around the poles. I have
never taken one down that far. Maybe it is a
compensated compound motor. Strange. See what they
had to go through before PWM. Maybe these guys
looking to build contactor controllers should get into
Elec Traks and see how messy it really is.
I love those old things.
Jeff
>
> I'm assuming my usage of "larger" or "smaller" in
> term of the fields are meant to indicate "amp turns"
> ratings.
>
> Thanks Jeff,
>
> Stay Charged!
> (still learning) Hump
>
>
>
> > Subject: RE: motor wiring
> >
> >
> > Tim,
> >
> > Reversing polarity on a compound motor does not
> cause
> > field weakening and it rotates the same way.
> These GE
> > motors were a strange bunch, in my mind. Two pole
> > with compensating windings down the ploe face.
> Needed
> > for commutation over wide field range, I guess.
> >
> > Shunt fields would be in the 20 to 50 ohm range,
> > guessing, so 1 or 2 amps. Series field way less
> than
> > an ohm.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>Like your drive motor is cumulative compound in
> forward and differential compound in reverse. Some
> compound motors have more shunt, some have more
> series.
That's the way I understand the ET drive motor to function. You said it much
more clearly than I.
>
> Acutally the drive motor may be a *Shunt Compensated
> Winding* instead of a compound motor. Meaning that
> there are no series turns around the poles.
The drive motor will turn with no field connection. This makes me think it is
compound wound and not shunt compensated. It is weak as hell and the RPM's will
continue to rise to some (seemingly)enormous rate. I've never seen one self
destruct though, like everyone here warns of.. Connecting the field greatly
increases torque available, stabilizes the speed, and determines direction of
rotation. The way I determine if I have the field wired correctly is..... hook
up series only, note direction of rotation, hook up field, direction should be
the same for forward(cumulative) and reversed for reverse(differential). Sound
about right?
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
I-5, Blossvale NY
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wow, 1500 Mega candela, and 525 Newtonmetre from a LED. That's
seriously impressive. ;)
On 5/8/07, Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hey I am proud of that 1500 Mcd 525 Nm GREEN LED !!
They cost a bunch !!!
I can't see the slots on the PHEV mod chargers without using a thumb to
block off the LED while dialing in all 4 pots.
There is NO doubt that you can see the AC ON status if the charger is
powered up..
Right????
That's why it so bright...direct sunlight readable....
Or is it I like light sabers... and this is a trial install.
Er....Get the plastic Pot screw driver....
Better yet I got a bunch from Rod at EVParts years ago... somebody has them
in volume.. I need to by a case and ship at least one with every charger...
You don't see me at a Race without one of my Spectrol pot drivers!!! They
also make good hand toys while I am off in Lala land...
madman..
I LIKE BRIGHT LEDs...
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Brandt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: PFC-20
> Bob Wrote: "Rich put a [EMAIL PROTECTED] Knob on that!!!! "
>
> I'll second that. I had to grind down a 'micro' screwdriver to just get
it into the hole and hoped the sharp edges wouldn't destroy anything, and it
still rubs the edges of the hole, so it's hard to tell if it is in the slot
or not. and you can't look into the hole unless you block off the blinding
LED's next to it with one hand. You could light a whole room with those for
sure!
>
> Bob, if the pot floats, something has come loose (when did it develop this
much float?). Mine is pretty rigidly mounted, impossible to slip the blade
around it. It's doesn't sound too bad, but it probably does need to be sent
back for repair.
>
>
>
>
>
> David Brandt
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Sent: Sunday, May 6, 2007 11:09:20 AM
> Subject: PFC-20
>
>
> Hi EVerybody;
>
> Have been running the Jetta , now for a couple of weaks, now. And have
started weeding out the minor(like Part Time lighting) Crappy badd-eries,
ect but I THINK I may have busted the charger. Ya know, you PFC drivers,
that little hols adjustment pot, on the left of the little plastic cover
plate?You get a tiny screwdriver and TRY to find the mini-pot?Christ! Rich
put a GODAMN Knob on that!!!! So you don't have to fish around TRYING to
find it! I got a small "Zorch' trying to find it! Fan speeded up a bit and
NOTHING , volts wise comes out! The pot seems to be adrift enough, it
"ducks" away when you try to screwdriver it, as it is. Sigh! Guess I gotta
pull the unit and open it up to see if the pot is detached from the circuit
bored?
>
> Anybody ELSE done this? Before I have to ship it back as DOA?
>
> Back to a Bad Boy, again.
>
> Bob
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
________
> Don't pick lemons.
> See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
> http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
>
--
www.electric-lemon.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> You don't see me at a Race without one of my Spectrol pot drivers!!!
Er... um... public list, man! Too much information, unless you have a
prescription for glaucoma. :p
Randii
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a couple of k&W BC-20 chargers for sale, they're in good
working condition. Make me an offer off list if interested.
-Peter
--
www.electric-lemon.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd love to do it in NiMH, but aren't they "unobtanium"?
Joseph H. Strubhar
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Murray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: Electric Mini Cooper Videos
they said its ONLY $25,000 over the cost of the Mini, i.e. double the
price of the car. (Interesting HT says 1500 cycles on the batteries. A123
says "several thousand" cycles for the M1 cells, but show only 1000 cycles
at 10C discharge, is HT using M1 cells?)
So sure its possible if you want to spend $25k on lithium batteries,
1/4th the weight of lead. In fact, can you buy such a pack even if you
wanted to spend that? Who sells them?
Again, if you consider NiMH, you get 1/2 the weight of lead, and twice the
price, vs 1/4 the weight and 4 times the price with Lithium.
Jack
joe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Thanks, Mark - I was coming to somewhat the
same conclusion. I don't mind a
challenge, but to get 30+ miles out of a light pack in this car seems to
me
to be a little too much to expect with lead-acid batteries. If he is
willing
to pay for LI-ions, maybe it is doable?
Joseph H. Strubhar
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Dutko"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: Electric Mini Cooper Videos
Converting a modern cooper would be a challenge, the electronic systems
on the car are all computer controlled and tied to each other and very
complex, the curb weight is high relative to the space for batteries.
Simple tinkering with this car can result in blowing a main body ecu.
FYI
Remember it's a modern BMW not a honda or toyota.
On May 8, 2007, at 6:54 AM, joe wrote:
Are these pure electric or hybrid? I'm asking because I've been asked
to
convert a Mini Cooper to pure electric. I'm trying to ascertain whether
it is practical for the range desired.
Joseph H. Strubhar
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan Stotts"
To: "EVDL"
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 8:45 PM
Subject: Electric Mini Cooper Videos
There is a part about 3/4 through the video where she gets on the
throttle that's pretty neat:
http://www.hybridtechnologies.com/multimedia.php?typeID=V&vidID=51
The motor sounds good, plus an under hood shot:
http://www.hybridtechnologies.com/multimedia.php?typeID=V&vidID=50
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
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* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The tachometer chips that are commonly used often have a square wave
circuit built-in.
Roland Wiench wrote:
Hello Dave,
First, you must have the speed sensor connected to Pin# 19, 20 and 22.
Next, you then in the Options Menu, you turn a) on and k) off for reading
rpm on tach.
With or without a speed sensor, you can turn a) off and k) on for reading
amps on tach. Try this see if you are getting a circuit to the tach.
I remember that Otmar told me that a tachometer works best if its is switch
to a 4 cycle engine type. My tachometer is a Stewart Warner, so there is a
selector switch in the back for a 8,6 or 4 cyclinder.
You may need a tach adapter which converts the pulse signal into a 12-volt
square wave your tach may use. MSD or Auto Meter makes these adapters.
Yes, I ran the wire directly from Pin# 11 directly to the sender input on
the tach.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Rear Pressure Porportioning Valve, TOPIC CHANGE Zilla
Tach
--- Mark Hanson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I've done this on my Electro-Metro
for 120k miles, my E-Jeep for 50k miles and now my E-Porsche. I think
otmar
has done as well on his.
I'm looking for anyone with Porsche experience. I'd like to hook my Z1k to
my Porsche 944 tach. I
tried hooking the Zilla tach output to the tach connection under the hood.
No luck. Has anyone
been successful doing this? Can I run a wire from the Zilla right to the
tach?
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Actually, it has a kevlar belt, and the zilla is turned up just a bit :)
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Tue, 8 May 2007 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
Put a kevlar belt on and turn the zilla up, then you will see fast. My
friends Jelly Bean Sparrow was faster than my Cooper S at redline.
On May 8, 2007, at 11:59 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Tweety now has over 1500 miles on its odometer. That is averaging >
about 500 miles per month that is not going on the Ford Explorer. >
And… Tweety is far more fun than the Explorer!
A common scenario seems to keep happening. Someone notices Tweety >
at a traffic light and bursts out laughing. The light turns green > and
their laughter changes to wide eyed, drop jawed amazement as > they
watch Tweety’s brake lights come on at the next light before > they
hardly get started. Yesterday, a guy pulls next to me at the > light,
still with astonishment all over his face, and says, “Damn, > how fast
will that thing go?!” I said,”Hey that was only first > gear”.
Then, at an intersection to the IH35 service road, the same thing >
happened. A car with a guy and some kids burst out laughing. Only >
this time, there were a few cars in front of me. The light changes >
and the car with all the laughing took off down the service road >
towards the ramp. Finally I got around the “slow” traffic and > blasted
past the laughing car going up hill towards the ramp. As I > passed,
they all did a double take and then the same classic wide > eyes and
open mouths.
Another followed me into a parking lot and asked, “How can it run >
like that if it’s electric?” I told him that it runs like that >
BECAUSE it is electric.
I have been into hot rods all my life, but, I don’t remember ever >
having this much fun! And it's not even my car! This is just when >
Heidi lets me drive it!
EV grin… Now that’s an understatement!
Ken
______________________________________________________________________>
__
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's >
free from AOL at AOL.com.
=0
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
=0
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello all,
Lets start by saying I'm a newbie looking at doing a conversion. At
this stage I'm am evaluating whether it is feasible for me to do so.
My requirements are pretty easy to understand. Since my area is highly
spaced out I would like a car that goes about 110km per charge. I'm
not so much interested in performance or horsepower but I want to keep
up with people on the freeway (so 110km/h top speed is acceptable). I
want to carry at maximum two people. Most of the time it will be
myself in the car.
At this stage I'm still looking at what car to do a conversion on.
Depending on the car I guess will determine what controller, motor,
etc. I will look at.
By just a quick look here I have seen that it would either have to be
a small hatch or a pickup truck (ute here I think) in order to
proceed.
My understanding is for that range I will need to go with flooded, say
20 Trojan T-105's (220AH) for 120V at least and still may not make the
range.
I was looking at going DC, although I'm not sure if AC will be better for this.
My main point of concern is the adapter plate. My background is mainly
in electronics, and I am not familar with adapter plate manufacturing
which I'm pretty sure I will need no matter what the car.
Since this will be my conversion I'm not confident in allocating too
much money on it yet. Say 10,000 AUD.
Any tips? Is it doable? Would an electric car suit my needs at all?
Thanks,
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks everyone for the input. I found one problem with my test, but it sounds
like everything
else is right. I have the rpm sensor on my motor and correctly wired to the
hairball. And my car
was a 4 cylinder in a previous life. But I think I tried to connect to the
wrong wire, thus the
tach wasn't getting the signal.
Another problem I have is that my Palm lost it's mind and when I reloaded the
apps, ptelnet wasn't
happy. I have to reload it and get it working right so I can recheck the zilla
settings. If that
doesn't work I'll try my laptop.
I hope to have the vacuum system and battery box ventilation done this weekend.
A few finishing
touches and off to motor vehicle to get registered. Soon, very soon. PODC in a
couple of weeks.
Dave Cover
--- Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The tachometer chips that are commonly used often have a square wave
> circuit built-in.
>
> Roland Wiench wrote:
> > Hello Dave,
> >
> > First, you must have the speed sensor connected to Pin# 19, 20 and 22.
> >
> > Next, you then in the Options Menu, you turn a) on and k) off for reading
> > rpm on tach.
> >
> > With or without a speed sensor, you can turn a) off and k) on for reading
> > amps on tach. Try this see if you are getting a circuit to the tach.
> >
> > I remember that Otmar told me that a tachometer works best if its is switch
> > to a 4 cycle engine type. My tachometer is a Stewart Warner, so there is a
> > selector switch in the back for a 8,6 or 4 cyclinder.
> >
> > You may need a tach adapter which converts the pulse signal into a 12-volt
> > square wave your tach may use. MSD or Auto Meter makes these adapters.
> >
> > Yes, I ran the wire directly from Pin# 11 directly to the sender input on
> > the tach.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> > Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 5:25 PM
> > Subject: Re: Brake Rear Pressure Porportioning Valve, TOPIC CHANGE Zilla
> > Tach
> >
> >
> >
> >> --- Mark Hanson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>> I've done this on my Electro-Metro
> >>> for 120k miles, my E-Jeep for 50k miles and now my E-Porsche. I think
> >>> otmar
> >>> has done as well on his.
> >>>
> >> I'm looking for anyone with Porsche experience. I'd like to hook my Z1k to
> >> my Porsche 944 tach. I
> >> tried hooking the Zilla tach output to the tach connection under the hood.
> >> No luck. Has anyone
> >> been successful doing this? Can I run a wire from the Zilla right to the
> >> tach?
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >>
> >> Dave Cover
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you read the captions of the photos, it says how I did it.
I started with twin-row sprockets designed for
#60 industrial chain. I then machined the inside
of each to the sprockets to reduce the thickness
to fit 630 motorcycle chain. Works great.
At 10:35 AM 5/8/2007, you wrote:
yes, that was my original plan, the killacycle
has been a great inspiration, however with the
frame i'm using [see my blog:
http://geocities.com/hendersonmotorcycles/blog.html]
it is easier to stack the motors vertically
rather than horizontally. this configuration
brought up the idea of skipping the link chain
between the two motors and just using the main
drive chain to wrap around all of the
sprockets. this will reduce weight complexity
and hopefully increase efficiency. if it does
not work, i can add a link chain latter. which
brings up another question. seeing as how your
outer sprocket is barely on the motor shaft i
assume you connected the two motor sprockets
together? any suggestions on how to do that?
thanks for your advise on the "rubber
bushings connecting the sprocket to the wheel
hub" i completely forgot about that issue. the
the first bike i made electric had that built
into the donor chassis and it has worked really well.
note: my goal is not to make a drag bike, but
an efficient bike for highway travel.
Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Run the chain like we do on the KillaCycle:
http://www.killacycle.com/photos/motor-details/DriveChain4.JPG
Look at the pictures before and after this one,
and read the captions to fully understand the whole set-up.
Since you are running two motors in a motorcycle,
you might as well copy what has been working great for us for years.
By the way, on a street machine, you
NEED to have rubber bushings connecting the
sprocket to the wheel hub. Either that, or some
other torsion spike absorber. Otherwise, you will
be throwing chains continuously and/or breaking
parts. The shock loads from hitting potholes is
like hitting the parts with a hammer.
There are no potholes or RR tracks on
the drag strip, and we are running a wrinkle-wall
slick with 6 psi, so we don't have to deal with these issues.
Bill Dube'
At 03:49 PM 5/7/2007, you wrote:
>thank you and yes, sorry the motors are coupled,
>but that brings up an other question: would one
>master chain be enough to keep the motors
>working together and both provide equal power to
>the wheel [by the way this is a motorcycle]. I
>have the two smaller motor sprockets on top of
>each other so that the master chain makes an
>oval or rectangle shape looping all the sprockets see below
>
> ... are spacers
> xxx is the chain
> S are the sprockets, two small in front [14
> teeth] and one big in the rear [50 teeth]
>
>
>
>
..xxxxxxxxxxx
>
.xS
SSSx
..
>
.x
.SbigSx
.
>
.xS
.. SSSx
.
>
..xxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>
>
>Roger Stockton wrote: dale henderson wrote:
>
> > parallel: if a controller is outputting 200 amps at 48
> > volts then two motors in parallel will each get 100 amps at
> > 48 volts, correct?
>
>In parallel each motor will see the same voltage (48V), however, the
>current does not have to divide equally between them.
>
>If the motors are mechanically coupled together, then the current will
>probably be divided reasonably equally between them. If the motors were
>each tied to one of the drive wheels, then the current could be
>radically different: for instance, if one wheel is spinning the motor
>coupled to it will draw only a small part of the 200A while the motor
>tied to the non-spinning wheel will draw most of the 200A and provide
>torque to propel the car. Sort of a limited slip diff effect.
>
> > Serial: if a controller is outputting 200 amps at 48 volts
> > then two motors in series will each get 200 amps at 24 volts?
>
>In series the motors will each see the full 200A, but the voltage does
>not necessarily divide equally across them.
>
>As above, if the motors are mechanically coupled together so that they
>spin the same speed (and if the two motors are the same model, etc.),
>then the voltage will likely divide reasonably equally. If the motors
>are each ties to one of the drive wheels, and one wheel is spinning,
>then it will have more/most of the voltage across it while the other
>more slowly turning motor (wheel) will have only a small part of the
>voltage across it.
>
>I've wired my son's PowerWheels jeep like this; a 24V 75A controller
>provides speed control while the original "hi/lo" switch connects the
>motors in either series or parallel (the PowerWheels jeep uses a pair of
>permanent magnet motors, with each motor directly driving one of the
>rear wheels).
>
>Cheers,
>
>Roger.
>
>
>
>
>Albuquerque, NM
>http://geocities.com/hendersonmotorcycles/blog.html
>http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1000
>http://geocities.com/solarcookingman
>
>---------------------------------
>Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
> Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Albuquerque, NM
http://geocities.com/hendersonmotorcycles/blog.html
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1000
http://geocities.com/solarcookingman
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
With the Zilla at max you can easily snap the belt, my friend has
gone through three and several fuses.
Mark
On May 8, 2007, at 2:58 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Actually, it has a kevlar belt, and the zilla is turned up just a
bit :)
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Tue, 8 May 2007 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
Put a kevlar belt on and turn the zilla up, then you will see fast.
My friends Jelly Bean Sparrow was faster than my Cooper S at redline.
On May 8, 2007, at 11:59 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Tweety now has over 1500 miles on its odometer. That is averaging >
about 500 miles per month that is not going on the Ford Explorer. >
And… Tweety is far more fun than the Explorer!
A common scenario seems to keep happening. Someone notices Tweety >
at a traffic light and bursts out laughing. The light turns green >
and their laughter changes to wide eyed, drop jawed amazement as >
they watch Tweety’s brake lights come on at the next light before >
they hardly get started. Yesterday, a guy pulls next to me at the >
light, still with astonishment all over his face, and says, “Damn,
> how fast will that thing go?!” I said,”Hey that was only first >
gear”.
Then, at an intersection to the IH35 service road, the same thing >
happened. A car with a guy and some kids burst out laughing. Only >
this time, there were a few cars in front of me. The light changes
> and the car with all the laughing took off down the service road
> towards the ramp. Finally I got around the “slow” traffic and >
blasted past the laughing car going up hill towards the ramp. As I
> passed, they all did a double take and then the same classic wide
> eyes and open mouths.
Another followed me into a parking lot and asked, “How can it run >
like that if it’s electric?” I told him that it runs like that >
BECAUSE it is electric.
I have been into hot rods all my life, but, I don’t remember ever >
having this much fun! And it's not even my car! This is just when >
Heidi lets me drive it!
EV grin… Now that’s an understatement!
Ken
______________________________________________________________________
> __
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's >
free from AOL at AOL.com.
=0
______________________________________________________________________
__
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's
free from AOL at AOL.com.
=0
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yup.. I just fixed one from RENO.. metal screw driver shorts the Fan drive
> to case... if case is grounded... Bad thing happen.
>
Thanks for the heads up. I need to get a plastic screwdriver before I let any
smoke out. If you
can get them cheap, how about offering one with each charger. (Not trying to
cut into profits,
just an idea to improve the product.)
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Todd,
If you like drag racing, you should pick a class and voltage
division that fits your budget, build an EV, and come out and set a
record for yourself. It is a lot of fun.
You do the burn-out for two reasons. You want to heat the
tire. You also want to remove a thin layer of rubber to reveal a
fresh layer. This is much like rubbing a pencil eraser on your pants
to get fresh rubber.
The burn-out also looks really cool.
Indeed, there is some rubber and black carbon in the smoke,
but a large fraction of the smoke you see is just steam. They wet
down the burn-out trough on the track to make a shallow puddle.
You are not allowed to sense the track timing signals or
receive remote signals. Folks do have electronics to assist in the
launch, however. A "delay box" is quite common in bracket racing, for
example. A "stutter box" is also quite common on ICE bikes that bracket race.
The delay box inserts a selectable delay between the time
you trigger the launch button and when the bike actually launches.
You pick one of the yellow lights to look at, and then push (or
release) the button when you see that light go on. You set the delay
to launch the bike at the proper time AFTER you trigger the button to
put the bike over the starting line at the perfect time. You set the
box during practice runs.
A stutter box cuts out the ignition to hold the engine below
the RPM that will engage the centrifugal clutch. You mash the button
and give the bike full throttle. While the stutter box is engaged,
the engine cuts out briefly as it tries to exceed the RPM set-point
in the stutter box. You release the button on your chosen yellow
light, the delay box counts down, the stutter box switches to a "red
line" RPM limit, then off you go.
Bill Dube'
At 08:52 AM 5/8/2007, you wrote:
Okay, I've been thinking up ways to improve an EV Drag Racer's Performance:
1) Instead of doing a 'burnout' on the tires just before the race
(which is done I believe to heat up the tires for a stickier
contact surface), heat the tires electrically.
Method: buy or make strips of heat resistant fabric with
electric wiring embedded in it (like an electric blanket, but for
higher temperatures). Wrap the tires in the fabric and heat in a
controlled manner to the perfect temperature using an offboard
electric source. Just before race, remove wrapping for toasty warm tires.
Benefits: 1) no air pollution from 'burnout', 2) controlled
temperature for ideal stickyness, 3) no loss of car's battery
capacity from 'burnout'.
2) Install camera in car to identify when the light turns green.
Method: buy a digital video-camera and mount it in the
car. Orient the camera to zoom in on the lights. Setup a program
that identifies when the picture in the camera has a high green
content to automatically start the car.
Benefits: 1) fast reaction time, 2) no jumping the gun.
3) Low Rolling Resistance front tires.
Benefits: Less drag on non-powered tires improves performance.
That's it! Am I crazy, or do any of these ideas have merit?
Thanks,
Todd Martin
1997 Solectria Force, FVEAA
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Dave,
I found that with the Palm unit that Otmar sent be, I had to turn off the 12
volt power and back on for the hair ball to recycle. I use one of those
big red 12 volt master cut off switches in the motor bay to reset the
Hairball which is also for killing all 12 volt in the EV.
First I plug in the Palm and then turn on the 12 volt power to the hairball.
You do not need the ignition switch or main contactor to set up the program,
but than the ignition and start can be on to test out the data to these
circuits.
According to Otmar the program is still present even if you loss battery
power in the Palm unit. I plug it in one time after a month, replace the
batteries, and the program came up.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Rear Pressure Porportioning Valve, TOPIC CHANGE Zilla
Tach
> Thanks everyone for the input. I found one problem with my test, but it
> sounds like everything
> else is right. I have the rpm sensor on my motor and correctly wired to
> the hairball. And my car
> was a 4 cylinder in a previous life. But I think I tried to connect to the
> wrong wire, thus the
> tach wasn't getting the signal.
>
> Another problem I have is that my Palm lost it's mind and when I reloaded
> the apps, ptelnet wasn't
> happy. I have to reload it and get it working right so I can recheck the
> zilla settings. If that
> doesn't work I'll try my laptop.
>
> I hope to have the vacuum system and battery box ventilation done this
> weekend. A few finishing
> touches and off to motor vehicle to get registered. Soon, very soon. PODC
> in a couple of weeks.
>
> Dave Cover
>
> --- Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > The tachometer chips that are commonly used often have a square wave
> > circuit built-in.
> >
> > Roland Wiench wrote:
> > > Hello Dave,
> > >
> > > First, you must have the speed sensor connected to Pin# 19, 20 and 22.
> > >
> > > Next, you then in the Options Menu, you turn a) on and k) off for
> > > reading
> > > rpm on tach.
> > >
> > > With or without a speed sensor, you can turn a) off and k) on for
> > > reading
> > > amps on tach. Try this see if you are getting a circuit to the tach.
> > >
> > > I remember that Otmar told me that a tachometer works best if its is
> > > switch
> > > to a 4 cycle engine type. My tachometer is a Stewart Warner, so there
> > > is a
> > > selector switch in the back for a 8,6 or 4 cyclinder.
> > >
> > > You may need a tach adapter which converts the pulse signal into a
> > > 12-volt
> > > square wave your tach may use. MSD or Auto Meter makes these
> > > adapters.
> > >
> > > Yes, I ran the wire directly from Pin# 11 directly to the sender input
> > > on
> > > the tach.
> > >
> > > Roland
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> > > Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 5:25 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Brake Rear Pressure Porportioning Valve, TOPIC CHANGE
> > > Zilla
> > > Tach
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >> --- Mark Hanson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> I've done this on my Electro-Metro
> > >>> for 120k miles, my E-Jeep for 50k miles and now my E-Porsche. I
> > >>> think
> > >>> otmar
> > >>> has done as well on his.
> > >>>
> > >> I'm looking for anyone with Porsche experience. I'd like to hook my
> > >> Z1k to
> > >> my Porsche 944 tach. I
> > >> tried hooking the Zilla tach output to the tach connection under the
> > >> hood.
> > >> No luck. Has anyone
> > >> been successful doing this? Can I run a wire from the Zilla right to
> > >> the
> > >> tach?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks
> > >>
> > >> Dave Cover
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I need to get a custom adapter plate and hub adapter, can anyone recommend a
good machinist in LA? Thanks!
- Tony
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
G'day mate. Where abouts are you in the land down under? Just curious.
I'm going to be near Townsville in June.
Anyway, I'd recommend going with a Ute. They are usually easier to
convert and can generally handle the extra weight without requiring
suspension modifications.
Most of the DC controllers that can handle 120V can also handle 144V, so
you might consider adding a few extra batteries, this will help with the
range.
If you don't try to go the entire 110km at 110km/h, then you should be
able to make your range, at least at first. As the batteries age they
will loose range and performance. I'm guessing that you don't require
110km on a daily basis? If you do, and you can't charge 1/2 way, then the
batteries will wear out fairly quickly. You get the most miles out of a
pack if you keep the discharges to 50% or less.
Here in the states you can buy adapter plates for most vehicles, but that
can be a bit expensive, especially with shipping to Australia.
Steve Clunn at GrassrootsEV sells a CD-rom that details how to build your
own adapter plate with simple tools. I gather it's kind of crude, but it
gets the job done (which is the important part).
http://www.grassrootsev.com/viddescrip.htm
If the above homemade adapter plate idea works for you, and you're handy
at building things and scrounging, then you should be able to stay under
your spending limit.
Cheers, Pete.
> Hello all,
>
> Lets start by saying I'm a newbie looking at doing a conversion. At
> this stage I'm am evaluating whether it is feasible for me to do so.
>
> My requirements are pretty easy to understand. Since my area is highly
> spaced out I would like a car that goes about 110km per charge. I'm
> not so much interested in performance or horsepower but I want to keep
> up with people on the freeway (so 110km/h top speed is acceptable). I
> want to carry at maximum two people. Most of the time it will be
> myself in the car.
>
> At this stage I'm still looking at what car to do a conversion on.
> Depending on the car I guess will determine what controller, motor,
> etc. I will look at.
>
> By just a quick look here I have seen that it would either have to be
> a small hatch or a pickup truck (ute here I think) in order to
> proceed.
>
> My understanding is for that range I will need to go with flooded, say
> 20 Trojan T-105's (220AH) for 120V at least and still may not make the
> range.
>
> I was looking at going DC, although I'm not sure if AC will be better for
> this.
>
> My main point of concern is the adapter plate. My background is mainly
> in electronics, and I am not familar with adapter plate manufacturing
> which I'm pretty sure I will need no matter what the car.
>
> Since this will be my conversion I'm not confident in allocating too
> much money on it yet. Say 10,000 AUD.
>
> Any tips? Is it doable? Would an electric car suit my needs at all?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
