EV Digest 6749
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
by "Eidson, Mark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Can anyone recommend a machinist in Los Angeles?
by Mark Dutko <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Replacing One Battery
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Can anyone recommend a machinist in Los Angeles?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
5) Re: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
6) Re: Questions regarding an EV
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: PFC-20
by Paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Replacing One Battery
by "Deanne Mott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
10) Re: Why I got the batteries that I did
by "Kip C. Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
by "Eidson, Mark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: EV Drag Racing Ideas
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Brake Rear Pressure Porportioning Valve, Million Lb Jettas
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Questions regarding an EV
by "Timothy Balcer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Why I got the batteries that I did
by "Chris Brune" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: PFC-20
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Can anyone recommend a machinist in Los Angeles?
by Tony Hwang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Why I got the batteries that I did
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) article: Driving Michelin's Zero-Pollution Car
by Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Brake Rear Pressure Porportioning Valve
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Electric Mini Cooper Videos
by "Timothy Balcer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) article: Mitsubishi backs electric cars
by Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Can anyone recommend a machinist in Los Angeles?
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Custer Specialty Car
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Electric Mini Cooper Videos
by Tehben Dean <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Can anyone recommend a machinist in Los Angeles?
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Electric Mini Cooper Videos
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: PFC-20
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Electric Mini Cooper Videos
by "Kaido Kert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) EV's on Local Talk Radio
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Batteries or Charger funny?
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: Electric Mini Cooper Videos
by Ian Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
What size belt is being used in this application?
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mark Dutko
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 3:17 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
With the Zilla at max you can easily snap the belt, my friend has gone
through three and several fuses.
Mark
On May 8, 2007, at 2:58 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Actually, it has a kevlar belt, and the zilla is turned up just a bit
> :)
>
> Ken
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Sent: Tue, 8 May 2007 2:28 PM
> Subject: Re: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
>
> Put a kevlar belt on and turn the zilla up, then you will see fast.
> My friends Jelly Bean Sparrow was faster than my Cooper S at redline.
>
> On May 8, 2007, at 11:59 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>>
>> Tweety now has over 1500 miles on its odometer. That is averaging >
> about 500 miles per month that is not going on the Ford Explorer. >
> And... Tweety is far more fun than the Explorer!
>> A common scenario seems to keep happening. Someone notices Tweety >
> at a traffic light and bursts out laughing. The light turns green >
> and their laughter changes to wide eyed, drop jawed amazement as >
> they watch Tweety's brake lights come on at the next light before >
> they hardly get started. Yesterday, a guy pulls next to me at the >
> light, still with astonishment all over his face, and says, "Damn,
> > how fast will that thing go?!" I said,"Hey that was only first >
> gear".
>> Then, at an intersection to the IH35 service road, the same thing >
> happened. A car with a guy and some kids burst out laughing. Only >
> this time, there were a few cars in front of me. The light changes
> > and the car with all the laughing took off down the service road
> > towards the ramp. Finally I got around the "slow" traffic and >
> blasted past the laughing car going up hill towards the ramp. As I
> > passed, they all did a double take and then the same classic wide
> > eyes and open mouths.
>> Another followed me into a parking lot and asked, "How can it run >
> like that if it's electric?" I told him that it runs like that >
> BECAUSE it is electric.
>> I have been into hot rods all my life, but, I don't remember ever >
> having this much fun! And it's not even my car! This is just when >
> Heidi lets me drive it!
>> EV grin... Now that's an understatement!
>>
>> Ken
>>
>>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> > __
>> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's >
> free from AOL at AOL.com.
>> =0
>>
>>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> __
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's
> free from AOL at AOL.com.
> =0
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For AC 55?
On May 8, 2007, at 3:36 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
I need to get a custom adapter plate and hub adapter, can anyone
recommend a good machinist in LA? Thanks!
- Tony
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Joseph,
First look at the date on the new battery to see how much different it is
from the existing battery the post broke off. I had this happen one time,
but I luck out and got a battery from the the dealer with the same battery
date on it.
Before installing the battery, it should be charge to the same voltage as
the pack batteries so they voltage will match. If these are a open type of
battery, check the specific gravity and match that with the other batteries.
I use one of those solid state smart chargers that I got from Wal Mart that
is design to charge 6 or 12 volt standard, deep cycle, AFM and jell
batteries. It has a voltage and state of charge indicators.
I use this type of charger to balance my batteries about every 6 months.
One time, I twisted off a post at the base, so I use a wood speed bit to
clean the top surface for a smooth flat surface. Drill a hole about 5/8 inch
down with a 1/4 inch bit, and than tap it with a taper tap, a plug tap, and
than a bottom tap for a 5/16 inch bolt thread.
At a auto parts store, you can get one of those battery post that has a 5/16
or may even have a 3/8 bolt stud that is use to adapter those side battery
terminals to a post type. I use one with a hex base, so you can screw it
tight so it make goods contact.
It work so good, that I left it in place to the battery end of life.
I always carry a complete kit in my EV, to replace or by pass any battery,
circuits and complete set of fuses, terminals, wire, battery type soldering
iron, meters, etc.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Lado" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 3:20 PM
Subject: Replacing One Battery
> A few weeks ago I was pushing hard on my accelerator peddle and car just
> cut out. I opened the trunk hood and found that I had melted a lead off of
> one of my batteries. I took the clip off of an inverter I had and held the
> wire to what was left of the lead to make it home. Since then I cleaned
> the connection and skrewed the cable to the led coming out of the battery.
>
> I purchased a new battery to replace this one, which seems to be fine
> outside the fact that it doesn't have a post anymore and there is a bolt
> holding down the battery cable.
>
> I was wondering how to put the battery in. If the battery is drained and
> the pack is full won't this hurt the battery if I go drive it around and
> if the pack is drained and the battery is fully charged if I stick it on
> the charger won't it get hurt if I charge the entire pack? What should I
> do?
>
> Joseph Lado
>
> PS. EVA/DC is having its Power of DC autocross and drag race June 2nd
> and 3rd. If you would like to sponsor or get advertised go to the
> powerofdc.com website. Anyone know of a school that wants to show off
> their EVs. Let them know they are welcome to PoDC. JL
>
--- End Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
We have already broken two belts, however, not due to excessive torque.
Heidi broke the first one and I broke the second one. They broke due to
debris.
No, the car is never driven off road. This took place on "clean" paved roads.
Myers sent us an upgraded belt guard that fully encloses the belt. That
appears to be a fix.
The belt is a Gates Polly Chain 8mm Pitch, 200 teeth, 36mm wide, 62.99 in
long. It is the same as used on big Harley Davidson motorcycles except for the
length.
Our Zilla is not turned up all the way. All this fun is taking place with
less than 375 Amps. The stock setting is 300 Amps. I have bumped it up to
375.
Just enough for a quick easy burnout. It just doesn't take much to really
move this little thing.
Ken
In a message dated 5/8/2007 5:50:30 PM Central Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
What size belt is being used in this application?
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mark Dutko
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 3:17 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
With the Zilla at max you can easily snap the belt, my friend has gone
through three and several fuses.
Mark
On May 8, 2007, at 2:58 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Actually, it has a kevlar belt, and the zilla is turned up just a bit
> :)
>
> Ken
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Sent: Tue, 8 May 2007 2:28 PM
> Subject: Re: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
>
> Put a kevlar belt on and turn the zilla up, then you will see fast.
> My friends Jelly Bean Sparrow was faster than my Cooper S at redline.
>
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Mark, and welcome to the list.
> My requirements are pretty easy to understand. Since
> my area is highly
> spaced out I would like a car that goes about 110km
> per charge.
Ouch; that's about 65-67 mi. My Civic goes 40 on a
warm day. I'm gathering you have the wallet for
lithium or nickel-metal hydride batteries and an AC
controller (regen. braking)?
I'm
> not so much interested in performance or horsepower
> but I want to keep
> up with people on the freeway (so 110km/h top speed
> is acceptable). I
> want to carry at maximum two people. Most of the
> time it will be
> myself in the car.
>
> At this stage I'm still looking at what car to do a
> conversion on.
> Depending on the car I guess will determine what
> controller, motor,
> etc. I will look at.
>
> By just a quick look here I have seen that it would
> either have to be
> a small hatch or a pickup truck (ute here I think)
> in order to
> proceed.
>
> My understanding is for that range I will need to go
> with flooded, say
> 20 Trojan T-105's (220AH) for 120V at least and
> still may not make the
> range.
>
> I was looking at going DC, although I'm not sure if
> AC will be better for this.
Again, wallet. AC means higher voltage batteries, if
you want decent performance... plus a pricier
controller.
>
> My main point of concern is the adapter plate. My
> background is mainly
> in electronics, and I am not familar with adapter
> plate manufacturing
> which I'm pretty sure I will need no matter what the
> car.
ElectroAutomotive. See www.electroauto.com
>
> Since this will be my conversion I'm not confident
> in allocating too
> much money on it yet. Say 10,000 AUD.
>
> Any tips? Is it doable? Would an electric car suit
> my needs at all?
Catch website (below); best to you!
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On May 8, 2007, at 10:49 AM, Rich Rudman wrote:
Yup.. I just fixed one from RENO.. metal screw driver shorts the
Fan drive
to case... if case is grounded... Bad thing happen.
They ate there fans and Fet drive... Power stage staid alive.
Yea it's pretty much a Rich Fix thing....
I use a Spectrol plastic pot tuning screw driver. It don't short a
thing!
Uh Rich!
That is the first I've heard about this. I've been adjusting mine
with a small screwdriver (real one, made of metal.)
Please tell, what is it that I don't want to connect to what?
Detailed points please. I've had no issues using my small screwdriver
- my PFC-20 is safe and sound. The charger is connected to a grounded
120 vac plug but the buggy is not grounded (the charger is not yet
inside the car.)
Thanx,
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I did the same thing recently - only my pack had drained by the time I
got the new battery, which was actually charged up when I got it. I
jumpered over the "blank" spot where the battery had been, adjusted my
charger to the lower voltage, and charged the pack mostly back up.
Then I added the new battery, and charged some more - it was in the
"finish" charge stage at this point. As advised here on the list, I
drove a short distance and charged again, and then a longer trip or
two (charging each time) til I got to about half my commute distance.
It's been good for a couple of weeks now.
Others in our local club TEAA have repaired battery posts too and had
good luck, but I'm not sure how that is done. I'm a nervous newbie, I
pull some longish hills and do alot of freeway driving - so I didn't
want anything remotely marginal.
Also after all melting the battery post, I thoroughly cleaned all the
battery posts and cable terminal ends, cleaned the battery tops, and
made sure I had good connections all around to hopefully prevent this
from happening again...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
ken> Actually, it has a kevlar belt,
What does this do exactly, prevent EV hernias or something?
--
Skip Montanaro - [EMAIL PROTECTED] - http://www.webfast.com/~skip/
"The hippies and the hipsters did some great stuff in the sixties,
but the geeks pulled their weight too." -- Billy Bragg
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm working with an 85 MR2 which should weigh in at about 2000 lbs stripped
of ICE parts. My goal is to build it to be able to hit 55-60 mph to merge
into bridge traffic for a 1/2 mile or so over the nearby river for side
trips, but the rest of driving will be strictly 40 mph or less. And that 5
mile work commute is a round-trip figure. Obviously plugging in at work
would provide a minor bump in range, but I doubt I will bother.
I'm currently thinking an 8" motor will be sufficient with a 120V pack of
AGMs. There is one small 5-6% grade overpass with about a 25' elevation
change on my commute that I will need to cross at 35mph or so, but the rest
is dead flat.
Essentially this car is going to be my 'I don't feel like getting wet riding
the bike, and I don't want to ride the bus' vehicle. (But I'll have to keep
dealing with those options until it's done!) ;)
--
Kip
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: Why I got the batteries that I did
Kip> I've yet to get my EV on the road, but I'm leaning heavily toward
Kip> the same idea of keeping cost and weight down for a range that
Kip> leaves me perhaps 5-10 more miles than I need to 80% DOD over my 5
Kip> mile commute. Based on the typical 800lbs/gal of gas estimate, I
Kip> should have that and more with just 500lbs of lead acid, and have
Kip> plenty of performance for the flat land upon which it will be
Kip> driven. As such, the suspension of my car can be kept stock with
a
Kip> curb weight barely 100-200lbs over stock.
Hmmm... What's your planned EV platform (donor car, motor, battery
config,
etc)?
Thx,
--
Skip Montanaro - [EMAIL PROTECTED] - http://www.webfast.com/~skip/
"The hippies and the hipsters did some great stuff in the sixties,
but the geeks pulled their weight too." -- Billy Bragg
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Now I am concerned that my 8mm 30mm wide 950mm long primary belt is too
small......what are the sprocket sizes you are using? I have 38 groves
on the motor and 64 on the jack shaft for a primary ~1.7:1 primary ratio
for the belt and 16 teeth on the jack shaft to 45 on the wheel for
~2.8:1 secondary ratio for the chain and an overall ratio of ~4.75:1.
My motorcycle weights about 750# with the rider. I have an L91-4003
6.7" ADC motor and Zilla 1k. I thought I did the belt size calculations
correctly, but based on this I'm not sure.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 5:29 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
We have already broken two belts, however, not due to excessive torque.
Heidi broke the first one and I broke the second one. They broke due to
debris.
No, the car is never driven off road. This took place on "clean" paved
roads.
Myers sent us an upgraded belt guard that fully encloses the belt.
That appears to be a fix.
The belt is a Gates Polly Chain 8mm Pitch, 200 teeth, 36mm wide, 62.99
in long. It is the same as used on big Harley Davidson motorcycles
except for the length.
Our Zilla is not turned up all the way. All this fun is taking place
with less than 375 Amps. The stock setting is 300 Amps. I have bumped
it up to 375.
Just enough for a quick easy burnout. It just doesn't take much to
really move this little thing.
Ken
In a message dated 5/8/2007 5:50:30 PM Central Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
What size belt is being used in this application?
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mark Dutko
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 3:17 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
With the Zilla at max you can easily snap the belt, my friend has gone
through three and several fuses.
Mark
On May 8, 2007, at 2:58 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Actually, it has a kevlar belt, and the zilla is turned up just a bit
> :)
>
> Ken
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Sent: Tue, 8 May 2007 2:28 PM
> Subject: Re: More Tweety (NmG) fun...
>
> Put a kevlar belt on and turn the zilla up, then you will see fast.
> My friends Jelly Bean Sparrow was faster than my Cooper S at redline.
>
************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yup and it depends greatly on your vehicle(and how well you staged)
With my rear wheel drive misubishi pickup with all those soft rubber
bushings and long leaf springs I could nail the throttle and dump the
clutch in the second yellow and still not red-light(crossing the light
before the green)
When driving the Race-prepped Honda civic with cantaliever Goodyears
that won the grand nationals(not with me driving!) I had to wait well
into the 3rd yellow and still redlighted 3 out of 4.
I have seen people like Larry Park(700Hp B-Prepared Vette) get into the
throttle to soon, realize they were gonna redlight and get out of it a
little.
When I started autocrossing I considered 1 second a short time, after a
few seasons a tenth of a second was a long time. weird, time is relative.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
"If you have 60-70% of your batteries on the rear wheels then remove the
rear..."
This statement scared me. I have driven cars that are 40% front 60% rear and
even with great suspension, they can be a surprise if they are under powered
and begin to slide.(Bertoni X19 in the rain)
I would change that to...
"If you have 60-70% of your batteries .. MOVE SOME BATTERIES!"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You don't need to go exotic chemistry to go 70 miles, but you would
need a pretty hefty amount of lead.
Try some configurations here just to get a feel for what is necessary:
http://www.geocities.com/hempev/EVCalculator.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi John,
I did quite a bit of searching for both Orbitals and Optimas. What the
battery dealers were telling me is that there has been quite a price
increase in both of these batteries.
I managed to get what I think was a deal at $158 for Optimas about 2 months
ago. Standard price was I believe $168.
I believe the price of Orbitals was a bit lower, about $155.
I agree with the rest of your comments though. I'd be shocked if normal
marine/deep cycle batteries would last.
When we racing again?
Regards,
Chris Brune
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> >I see it like this Optimas are $170 / ea and they are
> >only 50 Ah. Sure they can put out 800 - 1000 CCA, but
> >my controller is only 550 A. My new batteries have
> >650 CCA. So acceleration performance is no different.
> >
> >
>
> With just a little searching, you can find Optimas for considerably less
> than that, closer to $125-$130 each.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How about one of those spring loaded pot handles that they use to put on
TV's you have to push in and turn or pull out and turn.
Do they make such a thing any more?
or maybe if it is a common danger, provide a little fiberglass
"adjusting tool" with the unit.
I have use a metal screwdriver, never thought otherwise :-o
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, I've been putting off getting it until I got the rest of my parts, and
they are coming soon! The fins would need to be shaved near the axles too.
- Tony
----- Original Message ----
From: Mark Dutko <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Tuesday, May 8, 2007 3:50:56 PM
Subject: Re: Can anyone recommend a machinist in Los Angeles?
For AC 55?
On May 8, 2007, at 3:36 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
>
>
> I need to get a custom adapter plate and hub adapter, can anyone
> recommend a good machinist in LA? Thanks!
>
> - Tony
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 8 May 2007 at 4:13, Steve Powers wrote:
> My new batteries have
> 650 CCA. So acceleration performance is no different.
Deep cycle batteries are usually rated for reserve capacity, not cranking
amperes. If you have flooded marine batteries with a CCA rating, most
likely they're "combination" batteries, not true deep cycle batteries. This
means that they're just slightly more robust starting batteries.
If so, you'll be lucky to get a year's use out of them. Six to 9 months is
more likely. I hope I'm wrong, but I'm concerned that you've wasted your
money.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
An article about a car Michelin is developing in Switzerland, it is
example technology for manufacturers:
http://www.businessweek.com/innovate/content/may2007/id20070508_055560.htm?campaign_id=rss_autos
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I had a rather nasty bout with one of those on my PU.
They had a spring attached to the body supossedly to adjust the brake
bias based on the assumption that if the body is lower, there must be a
lot of weight in back (being a truck and all)
The brakes sucked on that truck until I lowered it and it got worse.
Once I realized that the unpredictable behavior was caused by that thing
I removed the spring, bolted it down and (after a little testing) was
accused of having an unfair advantage in my class becasue trucks have
oversized brakes. (of course they laghed till i got close and complained
when I beat them)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There's a chinese company selling prismatic LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron
Phosphate) batteries for something like 0.54 per Wh, so you could put
together a 50kWh pack for $25k or so. They are technically 'energy'
batteries so they have longer life but you cant really pull heavily
from them for off the line current, but that might not matter since
for 50kWh you would have to have something like 300 batteries (they
are 50Ah, 3.7v) You could hybriize with High Power AGMs in a small
form factor, like these
(http://www.ebatteriestogo.com/SpecSheets/UB12260.pdf) for instant on
current. Also, remember that with lithium batteries you need a battery
management system of some sort to control charge and discharge, so
thats an additional expense and labor.
You can check the archives for 'LiFePO4' and you'll find the links and
conversation about them.
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Mitsubishi makes battery deals and solidifies their schedule to
production of EVs:
http://crave.cnet.com/8301-1_105-9717035-1.html?tag=rsspr.6182152
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
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emachineshop.com?
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Check this out. http://www.powerstream.com/12V-backup.htm
On May 8, 2007, at 7:15 PM, Timothy Balcer wrote:
There's a chinese company selling prismatic LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron
Phosphate) batteries for something like 0.54 per Wh, so you could put
together a 50kWh pack for $25k or so. They are technically 'energy'
batteries so they have longer life but you cant really pull heavily
from them for off the line current, but that might not matter since
for 50kWh you would have to have something like 300 batteries (they
are 50Ah, 3.7v) You could hybriize with High Power AGMs in a small
form factor, like these
(http://www.ebatteriestogo.com/SpecSheets/UB12260.pdf) for instant on
current. Also, remember that with lithium batteries you need a battery
management system of some sort to control charge and discharge, so
thats an additional expense and labor.
You can check the archives for 'LiFePO4' and you'll find the links and
conversation about them.
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Cooks Machine Works might be able to help, they shortened my V8 Vega
axles in the 70's, and are still in business in the same lousy spot next
to I-5 freeway. I think they made the 9" ford adapter for the
taylor-dunn electric carts, see if they can help.
http://www.cooksmachineworks.com/index.htm
Jack Murray
Tony Hwang wrote:
Yes, I've been putting off getting it until I got the rest of my parts, and
they are coming soon! The fins would need to be shaved near the axles too.
- Tony
----- Original Message ----
From: Mark Dutko <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Tuesday, May 8, 2007 3:50:56 PM
Subject: Re: Can anyone recommend a machinist in Los Angeles?
For AC 55?
On May 8, 2007, at 3:36 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
I need to get a custom adapter plate and hub adapter, can anyone
recommend a good machinist in LA? Thanks!
- Tony
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It looks to me that Lithum is unobtanium too.
Who sells an EV-ready pack? Sure you can buy cells, you can buy NiMH
cells too. That doesn't make an EV pack.
I think the only thing close is
http://www.hybrids-plus.com/ht/products.html
their PHEV conversion is mostly a A123 pack, $32,000 for 30-mile pack?
Makes the HT Electric Mini Cooper seem like a bargain?
Jack
joe wrote:
I'd love to do it in NiMH, but aren't they "unobtanium"?
Joseph H. Strubhar
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Murray"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: Electric Mini Cooper Videos
they said its ONLY $25,000 over the cost of the Mini, i.e. double the
price of the car. (Interesting HT says 1500 cycles on the batteries.
A123 says "several thousand" cycles for the M1 cells, but show only
1000 cycles at 10C discharge, is HT using M1 cells?)
So sure its possible if you want to spend $25k on lithium batteries,
1/4th the weight of lead. In fact, can you buy such a pack even if you
wanted to spend that? Who sells them?
Again, if you consider NiMH, you get 1/2 the weight of lead, and twice
the price, vs 1/4 the weight and 4 times the price with Lithium.
Jack
joe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Thanks, Mark - I was coming to somewhat
the same conclusion. I don't mind a
challenge, but to get 30+ miles out of a light pack in this car seems
to me
to be a little too much to expect with lead-acid batteries. If he is
willing
to pay for LI-ions, maybe it is doable?
Joseph H. Strubhar
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Dutko"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: Electric Mini Cooper Videos
Converting a modern cooper would be a challenge, the electronic systems
on the car are all computer controlled and tied to each other and very
complex, the curb weight is high relative to the space for batteries.
Simple tinkering with this car can result in blowing a main body
ecu. FYI
Remember it's a modern BMW not a honda or toyota.
On May 8, 2007, at 6:54 AM, joe wrote:
Are these pure electric or hybrid? I'm asking because I've been
asked to
convert a Mini Cooper to pure electric. I'm trying to ascertain
whether
it is practical for the range desired.
Joseph H. Strubhar
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan Stotts"
To: "EVDL"
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 8:45 PM
Subject: Electric Mini Cooper Videos
There is a part about 3/4 through the video where she gets on the
throttle that's pretty neat:
http://www.hybridtechnologies.com/multimedia.php?typeID=V&vidID=51
The motor sounds good, plus an under hood shot:
http://www.hybridtechnologies.com/multimedia.php?typeID=V&vidID=50
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: PFC-20
> Bob.. not gonna be any down time here... I will turn it in minutes... not
> months...
> My promise...
>
> I will set it for 150 volts...
> And send you a pot screwdriver...
> Now THAT'S Customer service! Thanks Rich, will be sending it by grounded
UPS tomorrow.
Seeya
Bob
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On 5/9/07, Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
It looks to me that Lithum is unobtanium too.
Who sells an EV-ready pack? Sure you can buy cells, you can buy NiMH
cells too. That doesn't make an EV pack.
There are lots of people selling relatively big lithium packs for
electric bicycles and RC stuff, with BMS. None on EV scale, AFAIK
It shows that there is room on conversion market for lithium BMS
suppliers, and it would mean scaling up from existing bicycle-sized
stuff.
-kert
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I got a spot on a local AM station here in Anchrage, 1080 KUDO, Friday May 11th
appromiately 2:20 pm Alaska time. That would
3:20pm West Coast, and 6:20pm East Coast. The host is Camille Conte who has
been doing Progressive talk radio in Alaska for 20
years. Her show is called "Cutting Edge" and airs daily from 2-4pm AKST. I
could tease you and invite you to tune in :-O or you
could just log on and listen live at http://www.kudo1080.com/ .
Once on their website home page click any of the tabs at the top other than the
Home page. There will be an area in the top right
called "On Air Now" inviting you to "listen live". I cannot guarantee that the
schedule will be exactly at 2:20 AKST like she
told me, and if it changes I'll notify you here.
To be honest I am not so familiar with their website so I'm hoping you all will
find a way to comment back to the station.
Looking at their site the last few days though it looks like they provide a
forum, although with current content that I perused
through I may not hang out there much. I will probably answer a few questions
there, then invite those interested to our side.
Maybe others of you could do the same.
Any comments on what to say and what not to say? I've done this before for
news papers and TV, and at least 2000 individuals over
the last year. But hey talk radio is a bit different. Maybe its easier though
since you have immediate recourse if they misquote
you. Assuming its a friendly interview.
I did finally hunt down the piece of info I was looking for for just such an
interview.
The U.S. National average CO2 per Kwh from large power plants is:
Coal produced 2 lbs /Kwh
Diesel produced 1.4 lbs/Kwh
Natural Gas produced 1.0 lbs/Kwh
They way I figure it, if my 15mpg car made 19 lbs of CO2 for each gallon of
gasoline then the ICE I had made 0.8 lbs CO2 per mile.
My EV that gets ~333 Wh/Mi would only make 0.33 lbs CO2 per mile (electricity
produced from Natural Gas here in Anchorage)
To me that looks like a 2-1/2 times cleaner Carbon footprint.
Mike,
Anchorage, AK.
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Been running twenty Crown CR-225's in the truck now for 5 months.
Over the winter the batteries have been kept around 75*F to 80*F by keeping the
lid propped open appropriatley to regulate the
temp. Recently outside temps started to rise for the summer and I came out and
they were 104*F and the charger did not shut off.
It was still running full open at just under my regulation voltage of 145V. OK
so a little thermal runaway. I pulled the
insulation out of the lid, let the truck sit outside without the lid for the
weekend. Battery temps back down to 75*F. A few more
days running without the insulation in the lid and temps are normal; I still
prop the lid open at work to cool. Because its
warmer out and the likelyhood of the batteries running over 80*F I've dropped
the Reg voltage to 143V. But the last few days as
I've watch the end of charge the voltage gets up to 143V, the blue Reg light
(1500 "Mega"candella ;-) flashes on the PFC-20 and
an hour later voltage drops to 141V, Reg light goes off, charger continues full
tilt until I shut it off. Battery temps barely
80*F. Its time for a water check and Equalize anyway so I refill all the cells
(all of them need a little). It hits 143V and drops
to 141V a couple more times, then it hits Reg and times out normally a couple
times. The last 3 days though it will not reach
143V at all. I'd like to run an equalize charge but I cannot get them over
143V. I'm only running 110VAC so I can only charge at
~10.5 amps. The last 3 days I've just shut it off manually when the KillaWatt
meter says I've returned 120% of what I calculate I
use during the day. The calculation is verified by a couple data pulls from
the Zilla. At 380 Wh/mi its slightly higher I figure
because I have the summer treads on that run 35psi, while my winter treads were
44psi (I notice steering is a little harder with
the summer tires too, but thats expected). I don't seem to be using more power
than I expect. I don't seem to be losing any
range. It doesn't seem to be losing any steam after 15 miles of driving. All
the driving seems normal. Battery temps seem
normal. All batteries when at the top of charge are average 7.11V with one
highest at 7.2V and two lowest at 7.02V (all other run
7.08V to 7.15V).
What am I doing wrong?
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
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Valence Saphions are Lithium batteries including BMS designed for EV
use. Great idea, but overpriced: http://www.valence.com
The 54c/Wh cells mentioned was probably referring to ThunderSky
(http://www.thunder-sky.com), but there's a real shortage of easy-to-
use BMSs available for EV-sized lithiums. Definitely a big hole in
the market there for some entrepreneurial soul to fill. Hmm... *gears
turning*..
PS: You can't really even buy NiMH cells big enough for EV use. They
do exist, but cost more than lithium and are usually only available
to OEMs.
On 09/05/2007, at 3:58 PM, Kaido Kert wrote:
On 5/9/07, Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
It looks to me that Lithum is unobtanium too.
Who sells an EV-ready pack? Sure you can buy cells, you can buy NiMH
cells too. That doesn't make an EV pack.
There are lots of people selling relatively big lithium packs for
electric bicycles and RC stuff, with BMS. None on EV scale, AFAIK
It shows that there is room on conversion market for lithium BMS
suppliers, and it would mean scaling up from existing bicycle-sized
stuff.
-kert
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