I've had the shoulder issue with enlarging patterns from period garments. I believe that in the 18th century (particularly for the upper classes) they were trained from childhood that proper posture involved holding the shoulders back and down giving the body a wider front and narrower back. In modern America (I don't know about Denmark) a more 'slouchy' posture is the norm with the shoulders rounded towards the front which is exactly opposite from the 18th century posture. Aside from re-training ones body to the period posture, I don't know what can be done except adjusting the patterns somewhat to accomodate modern posture.....but I don't think it should be done too much because the broad-chested/narrow-backed look is part of what makes the fashions work and look right.
Karen Seamstrix On Fri, 3 Feb 2006 20:27:21 +0100 "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > > Hi, > I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the > pattern of > the english coat in Costume Close Up. > It really is difficult to adapt an old pattern to a modern size. > The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very > badly on > me. I have to redy the cut. > This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the > same > problems? > The gustavian suit i made last year, didnt have to be ajusted very > much in > comparison, but it is very painfull to wear it long times, because > it pushes > my shoulders so much backwards. > I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits. > Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle > if any > att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no > wrinkles in > the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them. > This is very odd........... > > Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate > at this > point, but no............... > > > > > > > > Leif og Bjarne Drews > www.my-drewscostumes.dk > > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ > > > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
