I love this period--been doing a lot of research on it, and saving a lot of images. They're on a different computer and I'm too lazy to walk all the way upstairs, though, so I'll make do down here...
WWI in the Netherlands is a bit general: there are a lot of changes in fashion during those years. Also, I'm not sure how much the Netherlands setting affects the question--would they be behind the times, fashion-wise, or are they close enough to France that they'd be getting new trends before the US? One of my favorite books (although useless for the project I've been researching) is a Dover reprint of a 1914 what-are-the-newest-trends type magazine; the intro explains that American fashion correspondents are reporting on the latest Paris trends. The reason the book is useless for my research is that a lot of these trends just plain didn't make it over to the US, or didn't show up until a year or three after 1914, but it might actually be useful for the Netherlands. The book is: http://www.amazon.com/Home-Pattern-Company-Fashions-Catalog/dp/0486286886/ Anyway, I really just have a few general comments. The first and foremost is this: HATS. They are essential to the costume. Looking through the fashion plates, the only people I see not wearing hats are the ones who are also modeling lingerie or housecoats. Unless the characters are planning to spend all day inside, they need a matching hat. Also, the hairstyle is so very definitive of the era--I hope someone involved is good at doing those nice poufy up-dos, or that you have some great wigs. Here's a book that I want, but not badly enough to spend that much on it: http://www.amazon.com/Hairstyles-Fashion-Hairdressers-History-1910-1920/dp/1859732224/ Third, undergarments: they're less of a struggle in this era. The frumpy, poufy, blousy look lets you go bra-less with impunity (and get a more accurate look; bras existed but weren't worn much, and the high firm bust of today's bras just doesn't work) and although girdle-like corsets are still worn, the main impact they have on the outer look is to keep your clothing from getting wrinkled and rumpled around the waist if you spend time sitting throughout the day. In other words, you don't need something tight around the waist, just something firm. Hips and rear ends are worn rather straight and flat even in the flared-skirt portion of this era; a girdle can help a bit with that, but it's more a matter of how the skirts are cut. The slightly raised waistline also helps mask the swell of the hips. Fourth, this is an era where you start seeing everyday clothes that are actually comfortable become fashionable. If you're a bit chilly, throw on a sweater or cardigan. Riding? Try pants instead of a skirt. Working in the garden? Put on a pair of overalls. Sleeves are loose and relatively roomy; necklines are low or loose enough to be comfortable (if shocking to the older generation). Other than perhaps the shoes, no part of the outfit should be tight enough to be constricting in any way. The fitness culture that we have today had already begun and spread to females before this era; people understood that exercise was necessary for both sexes, and by this era, women were starting to wear clothing that was actually comfortable for physical activity. (Speaking of which, the whole 'hobble skirt' thing was a fashion flash-in-the-pan that fizzled specifically because it was so hard to live with, and most women were no longer interested in putting up with that. The look stayed popular and reappeared off and on throughout the era, but after a very short time--during which only a few women wore the style for more than just weddings or other highly formal events--skirts were most often only made to _look_ that tight around the calves and ankles. The use of clever pattern-making and tailoring tricks, and a few well-placed pleats and slits made walking easy, even if the skirts still _looked_ like they might hobble you. By 1914, the flash-in-the-pan part was over, and very few skirts had a built-in speed limit.) You should be able to find several patterns that will work at Past Patterns; my favorites and the ones I think look most typical by year are: 1914-- http://www.pastpatterns.com/6053.html (This dress could be pulled off throughout the era.) http://www.pastpatterns.com/8480.html (The sheer frilliness of this one makes it a bit more specific to the earlier part of the era, but still wearable throughout, especially by a teenager.) http://www.pastpatterns.com/6909.html (Note the frilly stuff at the upper thighs; you see that everywhere in 1914) http://www.pastpatterns.com/8390.html (This is a great example of how drape and optical illusions are used to give the _look_ of a skirt that would hobble you, without actually hobbling you.) 1915-- http://www.pastpatterns.com/9395.html (Another typical look is the blouse you see here, with the neckline/collar dropping straight down into an open front over a vest-like panel. Pair a nice white pneumonia blouse...) http://www.pastpatterns.com/9922.html (...with a dark, ankle-length wool peplum skirt and wrap a wide sash around your waist, and it'll scream WWI.) http://www.pastpatterns.com/5830.html (There're a couple of big trends this year. One is a very straight, shapeless look, seen both in 1 piece gowns and 2-piece, skirt & blouse or suit outfits...) http://www.pastpatterns.com/8322.html (...and the other is the beginnings of the flared-skirt look.) 1916-- http://www.pastpatterns.com/6204.html (the flared skirt wins out this time, helped out by cord-stiffened petticoats; in 1915 it's seen in women's suits, day dresses, ballgowns, everything.) http://www.pastpatterns.com/4877.html (Nice white or cream blouses worn with skirts are still a fashion standard.) 1917-- http://www.pastpatterns.com/9384.html (The flared skirt is still popular, as are fancy overskirt/peplum effects) http://www.pastpatterns.com/8159.html (The waist moves up a bit ...and so do hemlines; about mid-way between the floor and your knee is acceptable.) http://www.pastpatterns.com/9115.html (Many if not most dresses are made to resemble a blouse-and-skirt outfit.) 1918-- Darn it, I'm not finding much at PP for 1918. There are still some useful "circa" examples though: http://www.pastpatterns.com/9127.html (Flared skirts are losing popularity, although they still pop up into the 20s.) http://www.pastpatterns.com/9225.html (With frou-frou at the hips/thighs or without, skirts have a silhouette more like a pair of slightly poufy parentheses: ( ) than a flare or a straight line; waistline is still a bit high.) http://www.pastpatterns.com/9751.html (Things are a bit less frilly and lacy, and more draped and tailored) http://www.pastpatterns.com/8767.html (the ( ) look carries over here; don't forget the "sensible clothes" aspect!) Wow, I spent more time on this than I meant to, and now no longer have the patience to doublecheck all the links and make sure they are in fact what I meant. Here's hoping I got lucky... -E House _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
