A preview of the letter below was sent to a prominent lace expert / volunteer.
 She has often wondered why no one has written something comprehensive on S
vs. Z Threads and everything you'd ever want to know about Winding Threads on
bobbins.  She thinks no one feels qualified.  
 
That is why OIDFA is on the Subject line.  A copy is being sent to Margaret
Abbey, President.  All the officers would have to be consulted, and it might
have to be discussed at the 2018 Congress.  This allows lots of time for
arguments on Arachne.  Would someone please volunteer to collect related
correspondence for us?  


Questions about 1) S vs. Z twists of threads and 2) everything about winding
bobbins, have been around a long time and people are more confused than ever.
 Today's thread manufacturers and people working with thread need guidance,
because most never had basic instruction of how thread is used.  (Many do not
even know how to thread a needle, or that one side of a needle's eye is
designed for that purpose.)  Lace makers in different countries have
different customs.  Reasons some laces are worked palms down and others palms
up needs clarification, along with an explanation if S or Z twists matter, and
the direction in which the bobbins should be filled with thread.  Here is
what has been observed:
 
1.  There is a very lovely children's book of bobbin lace patterns being
marketed by a not-for-profit that has 2 totally incomprehensible pages devoted
to winding bobbins.  I did not review the book - would have had to tell the
truth.  Last December I sent a donation to be used to film children winding
bobbins for the not-for-profit's You Tube, and since the books are printed in
small batches I recommended these pages be revised.  They are just getting
around to filming.  My first question is usually - Who proofread this
publication from cover-to-cover?  There is a saying - The Devil is in the
details.  There are so few willing and knowledgeable volunteers available,
that the few have been attending to more pressing management issues in lace
facilities and lace guilds.  The personal cost to these few is very high.
 They are under pressure all the time.  People expect information to be
free.  Lace organizations need capable volunteers to help deliver "free".
 
2.  Australian, Barbara Ballantyne, shared her crochet research with us a few
years ago.  She taught us that thread manufacturers today do not have basic
knowledge of how thread is used and why the twist direction is important. 

https://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/msg35959.html
 
3.  Because different laces have different traditional techniques, I
remembered a 159-page $50 hardback book purchased in Europe in 2012: Point
Ground Lace - Blonde, Point de Lille Spitze, Punto Antico, Pecna cipka, Ret-fi
- by Lace a European Network.  It was developed with financial support from
the European Union, and written by lace groups in 5 nations - France, Germany,
Italy, Slovenia, and Spain.  It is in the 5 languages of these countries,
plus English.  This does not address S vs.V twists and bobbin winding.  It
is an example of collaboration.

 
4.  OIDFA (l' Organisation Internationale de la Dentelle au Fuseau et à l'
Aiguille, which translates to International Bobbin and Needle Lace
Organisation) has long sponsored Work Groups.  They have done meaningful
research into laces used on national textiles and costumes, and published
results in books.  They also schedule lectures that explain various aspects
of lace research.  It is not always easy to understand the books, perhaps
because of a lack of proper editing.  However, why not ask OIDFA to sponsor
an international study of the confusing and contradicting subjects described
in this memo and on Arachne today?  The study should not be exclusively for
OIDFA members, but be a vehicle for providing the very best and most accurate
cohesive explanations of these critical aspects of preparing to learn to make
lace, or trying a new lace (today's lace makers like to make traditional laces
from a variety of cultures).  It would take a while to gain consensus, but
every bobbin lace could be included.  An example of how universal it might be
is the International Lace Dictionary by Johan Coene et al.
 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center. 

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