Hi Andy and all,
>From what you can see on the video, Rub n Buff or similar rub on metallic
>waxes are great for restorations. I have used it to touch up or redo the
>stripes on Edison horns. It subtlely restores the original look. A friend and
>I recently used it on the gold tonearm of his Victrola 18, which had some
>obvious wear on the elbow near the reproducer. After we finished, you couldn't
>tell it was done. Note: Rub n Buff or other metallic waxes look good, but are
>not permanent without using a fixative. I use Krylon Matte finish art fixative
>to topcoat it after I'm through. It is transparent and does not show up after
>it is applied, but makes the metallic finish permanent. You should experiment
>first, before using it on an important piece. Another use for the fixative is
>this: if you have a black horn, which is scratched, etc. it detracts from the
>look and I hate to repaint, because you cannot reproduce the japanned finish.
>I touch up the scratches with a Sharpie marker, then blend the t
ouchups in with WD40 - I know, everyone hates WD40, but WD40 sprayed on the
black paint restores the original look and blends in the touchups from the
Sharpie. I then wipe off the WD40 with a soft cloth and spray the horn with
fixative. If you have a horn that is in need of repainting, you might try this
procedure, as it has worked well for me. I have restored a Victor R horn, a
Cygnet horn that was really scratched bad and an Edison black flowered horn
that now looks pristine. Just an idea... take it for what it's worth.
Curt
> From: a...@popyrus.com
> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 09:35:15 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
>
> I've been following this thread with interest. Nice description
> here. Brass hardware that you mentioned (2-56 thread might be
> appropriate for this), and solder are all relatively soft materials
> and would give that nice balance between getting as close as you can
> to a factory look, and yet be sturdy enough to know it will safely
> support the weight.
>
> What's the "rub n buff" that you mentioned?
>
> Andy Baron
>
> On Nov 10, 2010, at 11:59 PM, Mike Stitt wrote:
>
> > Is it really so bad the rivets must come out? Even if the metal is
> > split
> > I'll bet you could close it up. This sounds like one of those jobs
> > you wish
> > you left alone. Rivet drilling can go wrong in a heartbeat. If you
> > can drill
> > the outside head with a matching bit ( a little smaller that the
> > rivet head)
> > but do not drill thru'. Be very careful.
> >
> > Just thin the rivet. Next with a smaller bit drill thru' the center
> > but not
> > through the rivet. Take a punch and gently tap it out. The rivet
> > head should
> > break apart at the shank when you tap it. If not thin the head out
> > more so.
> > Small brass rivets will be your best bet. I'd use nuts and bolts
> > over pop
> > rivets.You might give thought if you use brass rivets to drill the
> > shank
> > with a small bit. That way when you set them the rivet should give
> > with less
> > force.
> >
> > If you use nuts and bolts use brass. File the nuts down very thin
> > and even
> > file them round. Cut the screws just long enough so when you bolt it
> > together the screw should not extend past the thin nut. Using brass
> > you can
> > fill the slotted head in with solder. Either use rub n buff or just
> > black
> > model paint. It is un-doable if need be and will look better than
> > you think.
> > Mike Stitt
> >
> > Good luck.
> > Mike Stitt
> >
> > On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:10 PM, Ron L'Herault <lhera...@bu.edu>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> It was probably a riveting tool with a long reach. You could pop
> >> rivet
> >> them
> >> but that would not look quite right from the inside. Anyone else
> >> know more
> >> about riveting?
> >>
> >> Ron L
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org
> >> ]
> >> On
> >> Behalf Of Vinyl Visions
> >> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 10:58 PM
> >> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> >> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
> >>
> >>
> >> I've been afraid to remove the rivets, since I don't know what
> >> method they
> >> used originally to put the rivets in without distorting the horn...
> >> any
> >> ideas?
> >>
> >>> From: lhera...@bu.edu
> >>> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> >>> Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 10:00:17 -0500
> >>> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
> >>>
> >>> Have you tried drilling out the rivets and taking the part to a
> >>> musical
> >>> Instrument repair shop? They may be able to straighten it out.
> >>> Then you
> >>> can rivet it back on.
> >>>
> >>> Ron L
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org
> >>> ]
> >> On
> >>> Behalf Of Vinyl Visions
> >>> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:30 AM
> >>> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> >>> Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell
> >>> replacements
> >>> for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so,
> >>> how do
> >>> you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to
> >>> replace
> >> the
> >>> ball.
> >>>
> >>> Curt
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> Phono-L mailing list
> >>> http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> Phono-L mailing list
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> >>
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> >
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