Greg,
There is a product that gunsmiths use to blacken aluminum parts. I have never
used that particular thing, but I am a big fan of SuperBlue cold gun bluing. I
use it on parts that are rusty and need restoration. First take the rusty parts
- brake parts, screws, etc. and clean them with a steel brush wheel (I have a
grinder with one side as a grinding wheel, the other as a steel brush wheel)
then buff them with a buffer. You can make the steel parts almost appear to
have been re-nickled by doing this. However, if you don't want the parts to
stand out, dip a soft cloth in the SuperBlue, rub it on - leave it for a minute
or two and then spray with WD40 or other gun preservation sprays. It is
important to spray the parts after bluing to stop the oxidation from
continuing. You then have a part that appears to be in excellent condition, but
aged.
> From: drgr...@msn.com
> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 20:49:34 -0500
> Subject: [Phono-L] Rub n' Buff Metallic Finishes
>
>
> Has anyone ever used the black (ebony) Rub n' Buff on Columbia reproduction
> aluminum parts? I have used black stove polish after soaking the parts with
> Drano (sodium hydroxide). The Rub n' Buff sounds a lot less labor intensive.
>
>
> > From: vinyl.visi...@live.com
> > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> > Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 18:50:09 -0500
> > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
> >
> >
> > Hi Andy and all,
> > >From what you can see on the video, Rub n Buff or similar rub on metallic
> > >waxes are great for restorations. I have used it to touch up or redo the
> > >stripes on Edison horns. It subtlely restores the original look. A friend
> > >and I recently used it on the gold tonearm of his Victrola 18, which had
> > >some obvious wear on the elbow near the reproducer. After we finished, you
> > >couldn't tell it was done. Note: Rub n Buff or other metallic waxes look
> > >good, but are not permanent without using a fixative. I use Krylon Matte
> > >finish art fixative to topcoat it after I'm through. It is transparent and
> > >does not show up after it is applied, but makes the metallic finish
> > >permanent. You should experiment first, before using it on an important
> > >piece. Another use for the fixative is this: if you have a black horn,
> > >which is scratched, etc. it detracts from the look and I hate to repaint,
> > >because you cannot reproduce the japanned finish. I touch up the scratches
> > >with a Sharpie marker, then blend t
he
> t
> > ouchups in with WD40 - I know, everyone hates WD40, but WD40 sprayed on the
> > black paint restores the original look and blends in the touchups from the
> > Sharpie. I then wipe off the WD40 with a soft cloth and spray the horn with
> > fixative. If you have a horn that is in need of repainting, you might try
> > this procedure, as it has worked well for me. I have restored a Victor R
> > horn, a Cygnet horn that was really scratched bad and an Edison black
> > flowered horn that now looks pristine. Just an idea... take it for what
> > it's worth.
> > Curt
> >
> >
> > > From: a...@popyrus.com
> > > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> > > Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 09:35:15 -0700
> > > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
> > >
> > > I've been following this thread with interest. Nice description
> > > here. Brass hardware that you mentioned (2-56 thread might be
> > > appropriate for this), and solder are all relatively soft materials
> > > and would give that nice balance between getting as close as you can
> > > to a factory look, and yet be sturdy enough to know it will safely
> > > support the weight.
> > >
> > > What's the "rub n buff" that you mentioned?
> > >
> > > Andy Baron
> > >
> > > On Nov 10, 2010, at 11:59 PM, Mike Stitt wrote:
> > >
> > > > Is it really so bad the rivets must come out? Even if the metal is
> > > > split
> > > > I'll bet you could close it up. This sounds like one of those jobs
> > > > you wish
> > > > you left alone. Rivet drilling can go wrong in a heartbeat. If you
> > > > can drill
> > > > the outside head with a matching bit ( a little smaller that the
> > > > rivet head)
> > > > but do not drill thru'. Be very careful.
> > > >
> > > > Just thin the rivet. Next with a smaller bit drill thru' the center
> > > > but not
> > > > through the rivet. Take a punch and gently tap it out. The rivet
> > > > head should
> > > > break apart at the shank when you tap it. If not thin the head out
> > > > more so.
> > > > Small brass rivets will be your best bet. I'd use nuts and bolts
> > > > over pop
> > > > rivets.You might give thought if you use brass rivets to drill the
> > > > shank
> > > > with a small bit. That way when you set them the rivet should give
> > > > with less
> > > > force.
> > > >
> > > > If you use nuts and bolts use brass. File the nuts down very thin
> > > > and even
> > > > file them round. Cut the screws just long enough so when you bolt it
> > > > together the screw should not extend past the thin nut. Using brass
> > > > you can
> > > > fill the slotted head in with solder. Either use rub n buff or just
> > > > black
> > > > model paint. It is un-doable if need be and will look better than
> > > > you think.
> > > > Mike Stitt
> > > >
> > > > Good luck.
> > > > Mike Stitt
> > > >
> > > > On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:10 PM, Ron L'Herault <lhera...@bu.edu>
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> It was probably a riveting tool with a long reach. You could pop
> > > >> rivet
> > > >> them
> > > >> but that would not look quite right from the inside. Anyone else
> > > >> know more
> > > >> about riveting?
> > > >>
> > > >> Ron L
> > > >>
> > > >> -----Original Message-----
> > > >> From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org
> > > >> [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org
> > > >> ]
> > > >> On
> > > >> Behalf Of Vinyl Visions
> > > >> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 10:58 PM
> > > >> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> > > >> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> I've been afraid to remove the rivets, since I don't know what
> > > >> method they
> > > >> used originally to put the rivets in without distorting the horn...
> > > >> any
> > > >> ideas?
> > > >>
> > > >>> From: lhera...@bu.edu
> > > >>> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> > > >>> Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 10:00:17 -0500
> > > >>> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Have you tried drilling out the rivets and taking the part to a
> > > >>> musical
> > > >>> Instrument repair shop? They may be able to straighten it out.
> > > >>> Then you
> > > >>> can rivet it back on.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Ron L
> > > >>>
> > > >>> -----Original Message-----
> > > >>> From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org
> > > >>> [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org
> > > >>> ]
> > > >> On
> > > >>> Behalf Of Vinyl Visions
> > > >>> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 8:30 AM
> > > >>> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> > > >>> Subject: [Phono-L] Cygnet Horn "Ball Holder"
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>> I don't know what you call it exactly, but does anyone sell
> > > >>> replacements
> > > >>> for the brass ball holder that is riveted to a cygnet horn? If so,
> > > >>> how do
> > > >>> you go about replacing it? Mine was torn up by someone trying to
> > > >>> replace
> > > >> the
> > > >>> ball.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Curt
> > > >>>
> > > >>> _______________________________________________
> > > >>> Phono-L mailing list
> > > >>> http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
> > > >>>
> > > >>> _______________________________________________
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> > > >>
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