If you wanted to get fancy, you could rig up an automatic system to test a set of points soldered to the throwbar and let it run for a thousand cycles or until it breaks. I would think number of operations is the best metric.
I was going to mention about the size of rail and whether the points themselves are hinged or continuous but Jim bet me to it. I believe hinging the points themselves using the shortened rail joiner method provides enough slop to relieve the stresses. Also if you wire your turnouts so the point rail is always the same polarity as its adjacent stock rail helps, because you can place the point closer to the stock rail without problems, so the throw is less along with less angle difference. In my case, I hinged the points on my Code 83 turnouts and soldered the points to the throwbar. I did this mainly because all but one of my Code 83 turnouts are dual S/Sn3 gauge, so I have three rails to bend and I was worried about the turnout motor throwing the turnout, which turned out not to be a problem. I do have some dual S/Sn3 turnouts in Code 70 rail with solid point rails and soldered throwbars and have not had any problems to date with them, but they do take more force to move than the Code 83 ones with the hinged points. On stub switches, I do allow for the rails to move one the throwbar a little. So far I haven’t had any failures other than initial soldering problems. I haven’t laid any Code 100 rail in years, and that was in my pre-handlaid track days. Dave Heine Easton, PA From: S-Scale@yahoogroups.com [mailto:S-Scale@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim & Cheryl Martin Sent: Sunday, October 06, 2013 9:13 PM To: S-Scale@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} Hinged or solid points to throwbar Jamie, Michael...I think the hinged vs soldered throwbar probably depends on whether the point rails are hinged or solid, along with the rail size. My turnouts are made with code 83 rail with solid point rails and soldered throwbars. Code 83 rail doesn't put up a lot of resistance and the few solder failures I've had at the throwbar have been because of bad soldering, not stresses on the connection. Those who build with heavier rail (code 125 and up) might be wise to hinge either or both ends of the points because of the exponentially higher forces it takes to bend the rail. That's my take on things for what it's worth. BTW Michael, your track work techniques look first rate. Jim (sticking with flex track) Martin On October 6, 2013 at 10:49 AM Jamie Bothwell <vze4c...@verizon.net> wrote: Michael, I have elected to go with soldering the rails to the throw bar, but I don't have years of "in use" experience. Therefore I would also like to hear from anyone who has had such in place for some time. Jamie Bothwell Curious in Bethlehem, PA On Oct 5, 2013, at 6:26 PM, meldri...@lincolnglen.org wrote: Time for a final (?) decision. Should I solder the point rails to the throwbar, or solder a tab to the rails and put a screw through the tab into the throwbar? I'm most curious to hear from people that solder the rails to the throwbar. Fill in the blanks: In ____ years of operating them I've had _____ solder joints come apart. -Michael Eldridge
