Let me add a few words (?) to what Peter has mentioned. With a few
exceptions our modules have small tabs soldered to the web of the
rail--they resemble little ears. One of our older members made up a
notched form to make these fairly quickly. We then drill a hole for #80
screw or a rivet (depending on builder) in those ears. We use circuit
board material without the copper attached as the drawbar itself. That
rivet or screw allows a bit of flexibility when thrown. We've probably
had a failure or two over the years.
I use the same proceedure on my layout and Jack Troxell, the originator
of that system have been in operation for 25+ & 30 +years respecively
without failures. Jack has all his turnouts with hinges and mine are a
mixture of solid rail and hinges depending on turnout # and rail size.
I go from #70 to #126 for rail sizes.
Bob Werre
PhotoTraxx
On 10/7/13 8:00 AM, Peter Vanvliet wrote:
Our club, the Houston S gaugers, uses handlaid code 100, also solid
rail with soldered throwbars. I've been with the club for over 5 years
now and we do 3 to 5 shows a year, and the modules are stored in a
non-A/Ced storage unit. Not a single one has broken since I'vebeen
with the club. The modules were built in the late 1980s.
I will use this same method again for a future layout.
- Peter.
On 10/05/2013 5:26 pm, meldri...@lincolnglen.org wrote:
Time for a final (?) decision. Should I solder the point rails to the
throwbar, or solder a tab to the rails and put a screw through the
tab into the throwbar? I'm most curious to hear from people that
solder the rails to the throwbar. Fill in the blanks: In ____ years
of operating them I've had _____ solder joints come apart.
-Michael Eldridge
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Peter Vanvliet (pe...@fourthray.com)
Houston, Texas
My Model Railroad Site <http://pmrr.org/> (RSS feed
<http://pmrr.org/rss.xml>)
Fourth Ray Software <http://fourthray.com/>
Houston S Gaugers <http://houstonsgaugers.org/>
N.A.S.G. <http://nasg.org/>
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