[Elecraft] Test

2006-01-03 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

Test - please ignore. Sorry abt QRM.
Geoff, GM4ESD


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[Elecraft] Elecraft: K1 current draw

2006-01-03 Thread Martin . Evans

snip

I have noted that the current drain is a little higher than the spec says
so
would like to know what other K1’s are drawing in real life

Mine on Rx is Ok at about 70mA with the backlight option fitted and set to
high brightness

On TX it’s a little high ( I think)



40m 5W  @ 14v Supply   Current =1.18Amps

40m 2W @ 14v SupplyCurrent = 760mA

snip

Paul, the current draw at 5W is a little high but nothing to worry about.
The current on my K1 varies around the one amp mark depending on the exact
supply voltage and the SWR it is seeing. If you are using the KAT1 and it
matches your wire perfectly ie 1:1 SWR then the current should be 900mA at
14V. I use an external ATU and because I don't always take the trouble to
match my wire perfectly the current creeps up above one amp for 5 Watts
out. For most CW speeds I don't think the output transistor is bothered
about a little more collector current, just don't leave the key down for
long periods. If you just feel the side of the K1 case where the output
transistor is bolted to (the case is the heat sink) you can feel if it is
getting warm, most of the time I can barely sense any change in temp.

One other thing to note is that if using an external tuner and the K1 sees
a high SWR when you are tuning, I think it reduces it's output to protect
itself and often I need to switch it off and on again after tuning to reset
the K1brain otherwise it gets confused. It's not a problem.

The K1 is my first and only rig and I love it. Hope you enjoy yours too.
I'm often on 80m around 3558 in the evenings and I'll look out for you.
Don't worry about the cw speed, I'll slow down to whatever you are
comfortable with.

73's

Martin
M0KWV
K1 #1534
Why not take a look at our Web site?
http://www.simoncarves.com

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[Elecraft] Re: KPA100 K3 relay

2006-01-03 Thread Trevor Smithers
First of all, thanks to all those that offered advice - much appreciated.

Well, after much deliberation (reading this mail archive  Eham reviews etc) I 
decided 
to put away the solder wick and purchase a Hakko 808. I tried it out on some 
discarded pcb's ( where I had previously used solder wick) and all I can say is 
that its 
probably the best tool purchase I've made. Full of confidence I tackled the K3 
relay 
and a few seconds later it came away from the board as clean as you like - 
wonderful!!

Its expensive to buy in the UK, and if you're a careful builder it might not 
see a lot of 
immediate use, but for those occasions when mistakes do occur or you need to 
rework 
the K2 to install mods etc it looks like being invaluable.

73 to all
Trevor  G0KTN
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RE: [Elecraft] Low power draw, low power out?

2006-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Nick,

Read that paragraph with the undertanding that the most important shared
circuits are the PLL Reference oscillator, the VCO, and the BFO stages - and
they are also measured with the RF Probe even for receiver testing - the VCO
and BFO should also be tested for correct frequency using CAL FCTR.  Yes,
the Bandpass filters, T/R switch, and Low Pass Filters are also shared, but
they will be tested with a signal 'the other way 'round' during the steps
indicated under Transmit Signal Tracing.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

  do the Transmitter Signal Tracing steps detailed in the Troubleshooting
  Appendix of the K2 manual.

 That seems to involve testing RX first, because of the shared circuitry,
 which unfortunately seems to require 0.14V from a signal generator, and
 my only signal generator is the Elecraft XG1, producing 50uV.   :-(

 Is it possible/sensible to test the shared circuits the other way
 'round, whilst transmitting into DL1?



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[Elecraft] Sidetone disappeared

2006-01-03 Thread K8bvj
Anyone have any ideas why the sidetone disappeared while I was going through 
the menu to change something.
Wanted to make a contact last night and no sidetone hi. I went back to the 
menu and tried adjusting the sound setting but nothing now???

Tnx  Jack
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Re: [Elecraft] Sidetone disappeared

2006-01-03 Thread David A. Belsley

Jack:
  I don't have the manual sitting with me, so I can't give exact  
instructions, but there is a sidetone source item in the menu that  
you obviously toggled.  Check your menu for a sidetone setting,  
select it.  There are two sources for the sidetone that you can  
select.  Select the 'other' one.


best wishes,

dave belsley, w1euy




On Jan 3, 2006, at 9:06 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Anyone have any ideas why the sidetone disappeared while I was  
going through

the menu to change something.
Wanted to make a contact last night and no sidetone hi. I went back  
to the

menu and tried adjusting the sound setting but nothing now???

Tnx  Jack
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[Elecraft] One more on the stupid thread

2006-01-03 Thread Albers
Some years ago I was a volunteer fireman in a small Upstate NY town. On one of 
our pumpers, a '58 Mack, one of the two (redundancy, y'know) battery strings 
(two huge 6V batteries in series) was self-discharging if the rig sat idle in 
the barn for more than two or three days. Determined to find out why, I went up 
to the firehouse one night with my multimeter. I disconnected the negative 
terminal and hooked up the meter. One of our younger guys was looking over my 
shoulder and asked whether there was any reason why I had disconnected the 
negitive terminal instead of the positive. Wow! Here was my chance to show off 
how smart I was. I explained that when working on a vehicle battery, one should 
always first disconnect the negative terminal, because that way, in case the 
wrench made contact with the vehicle's frame, there would not be a big short 
circuit current!
I then proceeded to demonstrate this for him by bridging my wrench from the 
negative battery terminal to some nearby metal. It was at that moment that I 
discovered that Mack trucks of that vintage had positive ground!! Ever see a 
box end wrench instantly get converted to an open end??

73
Ray K2HYD
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RE: [Elecraft] Sidetone disappeared

2006-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jack,

Enter the menu for St L - edit the parameter, and tap DISPLAY to toggle the
sidetone source - when you hear the sidetone, exit the menu - done.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 Anyone have any ideas why the sidetone disappeared while I was
 going through
 the menu to change something.
 Wanted to make a contact last night and no sidetone hi. I went
 back to the
 menu and tried adjusting the sound setting but nothing now???

 Tnx  Jack

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[Elecraft] HP Pavilion and PSK -- no workie workie

2006-01-03 Thread Sam Joseph
Hello,

I am new to the list - I just ordered my K2 yesterday.  I should have it by
the end of the week.  I have built Heathkits in the long ago past, but this
will be my first Elecraft kit.  I am still using my HW8 and Heath Electronic
Keyer.  I plan on retiring them.  More on my K2 later - after I get the kit.

Jerry,
I would set up for com port 6.  I know that 1, 2, 3, and 4 are in use.  I
have a Pavilion ZV6000 and also use a serial to USB adapter not for PSK but
that shouldn't matter.


Help?? I ran PSK all the time with my old puter, then the laptop came along
while I was in the hospital and my wife took my old puter away. Why, as a
way to make me keep my feet propped up when on the radio, it works for me,
new puter. hi hi

Ok here are the facts:

Puter: HP Pavilion  -- no serial ports all usb ports. using eithe XP or NP I
don't know what ever it came with, I'm no puter guru, shows huh?

Software is Digipan 2.0

Interface: Old soapdish Rascal with serial port, its has worked for years. I
have a serial port to usb port converter cable deal to get to usb ports on
puter.

Rig: my trusty wonderful Elecraft K2, which I've worked digital modes with
for years.

Facts: I can recieve PSK, however can only seem to control waterfall with
volume control on K2. Its very touchy.

I can't hear the PSK signals guess it has something to do with HP Pavilon, I
sure miss not hearing it. Want to tackle one thing at a time.

Can not transmit, when i try to configure the serial port, I set if for com
port 2 just like I use to do. RTS and RTR are checked just like before but I
get a message, Error opening Com Port 2, try again.

Any ideas to help me out, like I have said before I'm very puter stupid.

Thanks, now I wonder what I should have added??

Jerry - Nr5A - South DAkota

Sam (AF3W)
Western PA


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[Elecraft] First full week of K1 operation

2006-01-03 Thread Tom Althoff
Nabbed 19 countries (counting N0SS for USA) in 7 non-contest days with my 
Christmas present K1 #2146 at 5 watts.

40M EA6 KV4 VE TI HC 6Y5 
20M HB9 GM CO PY HC YU
15M V51 EA5 EA8 F G OM

Haven't had this much fun with QRP since my Argonaut 505 #109 during a sunspot 
maximum using a Lafayette CB vertical on 10M.

K1-4 = $359
KAT-1 = $99
Hearing V51AS answer my call through a EU pileuppriceless!

Elecraft K1... 10lbs of fun in a 1.5lb box! 

Tom K2TA
K2-TA-100 #1117
K1-4 #2146
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[Elecraft] stupid question

2006-01-03 Thread J F
Jim, John, Simon and all...

There aren't any stupid questions, but lots of stupid
actions. (Doh! What was I thinkin'!)

Jim, along your lines, I learned very early in my ham
career, Never, EVER, try to disconnect an antenna
during a storm's approach. Was knocked clear across my
shack by a nearby discharge. Talk about knocking the
sense into you!

Second, measure, measure and measure again. Make sure
all the parts fit in the sequence you think they will
fit. I can vouch for the shear joy of trying to get a
part on a 5 element antenna that you had to pull out
of the rotor and attempt to balance in mid-air while
you slide on a part you thought would fit after it was
mounted. ;o) (It's even more fun if you're hanging out
in the middle of the ozone layer.)

Happy New Year to one and all! Hope to catch you all
OTA this year.

73,
Julius
n2wn
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[Elecraft] OT: Remote Operating Question

2006-01-03 Thread Jeff Davis
I would like to be able to control a rig and run various digital modes 
remotely from my wireless network. I imagine a rig setup in the shack 
that I can access from my wireless laptop in the other part of the 
house. I'd like to be capable of running psk31 and other keyboard modes 
in this manner.


I'm pretty certain that I have read about others doing this, but I have 
had no luck finding any online resources to explain how it is done.


Any pointers to online or printed resources would be appreciated.

73,
--
Jeff, KE9V
K2 #524
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Remote Operating Question

2006-01-03 Thread Larry Phipps
Jeff, take a look at my website, www.telepostinc.com. Go to the links 
about remote control and software control. Also, if you take QST, look 
in the October 2005 issue for my article on remote control. If you're 
not a member, I can email you a copy.


73,
Larry N8LP



Jeff Davis wrote:

I would like to be able to control a rig and run various digital modes 
remotely from my wireless network. I imagine a rig setup in the shack 
that I can access from my wireless laptop in the other part of the 
house. I'd like to be capable of running psk31 and other keyboard 
modes in this manner.


I'm pretty certain that I have read about others doing this, but I 
have had no luck finding any online resources to explain how it is done.


Any pointers to online or printed resources would be appreciated.

73,


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RE: [Elecraft] OT: Remote Operating Question

2006-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jeff,

If you can set things up to control everything from the local shack computer
first, then you can use a remote computer control program to control the
shack computer.  I like UltraVNC (http://ultravnc.sourceforge.net/) for
controlling a remote computer and viewing its desktop - I have not
investigated nor solved the problem of getting audio to and from the shack
to the laptop location, but some folks have suggested a VoIP based
connection would do the task.

For only PSK31 operation it is a lot easier because the audio link problem
does not have to be solved.  Ham Radio Deluxe is be a good choice for rig
control because it has PSK31 built in and UltraVNC will allow you to operate
the shack computer from the laptop.  The N4PY software also can be used for
rig control, but you will have to use something else for PSK31.

Bottom line - anything you can operate anything from the shack computer
screen and keyboard can be available to you on any remote computer through
UltraVNC (and it is freeware) - try it, you may like it.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I would like to be able to control a rig and run various digital modes
 remotely from my wireless network. I imagine a rig setup in the shack
 that I can access from my wireless laptop in the other part of the
 house. I'd like to be capable of running psk31 and other keyboard modes
 in this manner.

 I'm pretty certain that I have read about others doing this, but I have
 had no luck finding any online resources to explain how it is done.

 Any pointers to online or printed resources would be appreciated.

 73,
 --
 Jeff, KE9V
 K2 #524


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[Elecraft] More Dumb Stuff

2006-01-03 Thread Douglas Westover
Back in 1952 I was a high school freshman and a brand
new Novice. On my way home from school I would drop
in on my Elmer, W2FIJ, who ran a Radio/TV repair shop.
Ralph would impart his vast knowledge of electronics and
let me poke around in his parts bins. One day I came across
a beautiful volt meter so of course I had to measure a
battery.

I learned a lot of things that afternoon, a serious lesson
in Ohms law, what a meter shunt does, and a number of
words I hadn't heard before! It WAS a very nice microamp
meter movement.

Well, I worked that off on weekends stuffing tubes in the
tube checker, sweeping the shop's floor and learning
much more in the process.
 
Doug
W6JD
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Re: [Elecraft] One more on the stupid thread

2006-01-03 Thread Mark Baugh
I, too could tell my stupid stories that have
occured over my 41 year ham career, but I won't bore
you; you're operating time is too valuable:-)  But I
will say that I adopted a philosophy a number of years
ago that has covered me many times.  It is that I
always reserve the right to be wrong, i.e. stupid. 
See, I'm covered no matter what I do.  Happy New Year
to all!

73,
Mark Baugh
W5EZY
Grenada MS




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Re: [Elecraft] One more on the stupid thread

2006-01-03 Thread n2ey
 
 Classic Homers of mine:
 
- Climb tree, install halyard rope for antenna. Forget to tie rope ends 
together. Climb down tree,
breeze shakes tree, short end of rope goes up and over branch.   
 
Climb tree *again*
 
 
- Two lovely NOS 837 tubes, ready to sell. Neat-and-clean but 
not-perfectly-level workbench. Concrete basement floor. 
 
One lovely NOS 837 tube, ready to sell.
 
 
- I'll back up those files tomorrow...
 
 
 
73 de Jim, N2EY
 
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 - Rsspy sound on CW

2006-01-03 Thread Masleid, Michael A.
Hi Jerry,

Sometimes RFC15 broken, causing problems at some frequencies for the PLL.

Michael, AB9GV

I got a report of it sounding very raspy, so I monitored it with another 
rig and sure enough the CW sound horrible and raspy is a good word for it..
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[Elecraft] KPA100 Component Installation Gaff? Acceptable Correction?

2006-01-03 Thread VCLAY
Not fully reading the directions before installing the component, I 
immediately clipped off (at the respective holes where the two 
component leads were inserted) the leads after installing current 
sensing resistor R7 into the closest of the 3 holes on the two solder 
pads.  Would it be sufficient to solder short pieces of the clipped off 
R7 leads to the two pads, from the innermost holes on the pads (where 
the R7 leads have been soldered and flush-cut), or do I need to remove 
R7 and properly install a new, replacement resister?  Since, even 
thought there's plenty of electrical continuity, there's a physical 
discontinuity between the resister leads and the small clipped pieces 
of lead I've installed, I'm wondering if this is going to cause an 
electrical performance (or cooling) problem down the road, that can 
only be avoided by taking out the improperly installed component and 
installing a replacement component correctly.

Thanks,
Paul, N6LQ

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Re: [Elecraft] One more on the stupid thread

2006-01-03 Thread Mike Morrow
Jim wrote:

- Two lovely NOS 837 tubes, ready to sell. Neat-and-clean but 
not-perfectly-level
 workbench. Concrete basement floor. 
 
One lovely NOS 837 tube, ready to sell.

Well, at least it wasn't a 211, 25, 2A3, or some other vintage tube made rare 
only due to vacuum tube audiofool demand.

Fourty years ago, I zapped big-time my dad's Simpson 260 volt-ohm meter, having 
clipped the meter leads on to the the 2.5 vac output of a 110-to-2.5 volt 
transformer and then applying 120 vac...but unfortunately I had reversed the 
primary and secondary windings.  If the initial voltage application didn't kill 
the meter, the inductive surge that occured when I pulled the AC power would 
have.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Remote Operating Question

2006-01-03 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
In the APRPack Yahoo group we are working on a set of TCP protocols for 
remote and local operation of digimode software.  One goal is remote 
operation as you suggest.  Another is to allow client software to run 
locally and interact with the modem software.   A third goal is to allow 
UI designers to make good programs for hams to use, and to let DSP 
designers make good modems, and then to let us lucky hams mix and 
match.


I built a prototype and have screenshots at http://wa5znu.org/rpsk but 
we are now looking into the issues the prototype raised.  I also demo'd 
a cell phone client once and there are screenshots there.


Leigh / WA5ZNU
On Tue, 3 Jan 2006 9:11 am, Larry Phipps wrote:
Jeff, take a look at my website, www.telepostinc.com. Go to the links 
about remote control and software control. Also, if you take QST, look 
in the October 2005 issue for my article on remote control. If you're 
not a member, I can email you a copy.


73,
Larry N8LP


Jeff Davis wrote:

I would like to be able to control a rig and run various digital modes 
remotely from my wireless network. I imagine a rig setup in the shack 
that I can access from my wireless laptop in the other part of the 
house. I'd like to be capable of running psk31 and other keyboard 
modes in this manner.


I'm pretty certain that I have read about others doing this, but I 
have had no luck finding any online resources to explain how it is 
done.


Any pointers to online or printed resources would be appreciated.

73,


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[Elecraft] the fine line between stupid and curious

2006-01-03 Thread wayne burdick

This thread is vaguely disturbing, but I'll add my 2 cents.

At about age 9, I came into possession of a 5 square, midrange TV 
speaker. It had heavy-duty leads, stripped, tinned, and ready to go. I 
wondered what 60 Hz sounded like, and there was no shortage of AC 
outlets in my room.


Fortunately for my young ears, the speaker coil vaporized within a few 
seconds.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] Mistakes (WAS: One more on the stupid thread)

2006-01-03 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
One key point about making mistakes is this: All of us have survived them,
at least so far. Not everyone does. 

Ham radio has lost a lot of great ops to falls from towers, slips out of
trees or off roofs and, mostly in the past, electrocution. 

Electrocution is not the huge danger it was when we were routinely poking
around circuits that would be energized with hundreds or thousands of volts.
Still, lower voltages can produce nasty shocks under the right conditions
and it's easy to get painful burns from RF or hot components when working
around modern gear. In power supplies the mains voltage is absolutely
deadly. 

The difference between a painful injury and a fatal one is sometimes very,
very small. Especially when a small injury makes one jump or fall.

Mistakes are a part of life. They are sometimes funny, often frustrating and
always a warning. 

Ron AC7AC

 

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[Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT

2006-01-03 Thread Darwin, Keith
I've been racking my brain to see if I've done anything stupid.
 
Well, there is that time I heated the sand of an ant hill with a
magnifying glass.  After 5 minutes nothing happened so I touched it see
if it was hot.  Believe me it WAS!
 
I tried to make a watch demagnetizer by winding about 5 feet of wire
around a cardboard core and plugging the ends into the wall outlet.
Thank God for circuit breakers.
 
Worst of all was the time I came in from playing outside and found my 25
watt soldering iron on my bed.  The iron was on and the bedspread was
burned / melted under the iron.  I had apparently left it plugged in
when I went outside hours earlier.
 
And of course there was that little surprise winter swim in a manure pit
but that is getting very OT!
 
- Keith KD1E -
 
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RE: [Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT

2006-01-03 Thread Craig Rairdin
How about landing long on a short runway? 6000 lbs of metal and fuel
screaming down the last half of the runway at 100+ MPH on top of a few
square inches of burning rubber, then melting rims; off the end and into the
dirt. Airport closed briefly. Took off two days later with a lighter wallet
and more respect for the laws of physics.

Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941

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[Elecraft] Yet another one for the stupid thread

2006-01-03 Thread David F. Reed


I have a few dating back to the early and mid 1950s that launched my 
start in Ham Radio...


(1) I inserted a flat bladed screw driver into a wall outlet; I was 
stunned to learn that I could fly, but was scared enough to avoid a 
repeat of that.  What the heck was I thinking anyway?


admittedly, I was pre-school, but still...

(2) Having constructed my first 40 meter receiver, I was stringing up an 
end fed inverted L for it in my grandparent's pecan tree; I shimmied out 
on a branch a bit to far, and fell down into a fig tree that was filled 
with wasps - I received over 20 stings and subsequently became quite 
allergic to insect stings.


The good news?  I did not bring the antenna down with me, and it served 
me well for a few years, suitably initiating my Ham and SWL life.


(3) a few decades later, I bridged an open ground on a pipeline (I was 
working on some actuators for the valves) and found that the aurora can 
induce quite a healthy charge - wrench glowing red, closed end opened, 
burnt hand in spite of leather gloves and so on.


I have of course continued in my stupidity as I age...

(4) More recent events that I might confess?  Last year I was working on 
my tower, unclipped the safety lanyard to change levels; I slipped, and 
my fall was arrested by my left foot catching in the zig-zag of the next 
rung down; I was hanging inverted, my cell phone slipped out of my 
pocket, and I had no way to call for help.  Note to self: use 2 safety 
lanyards or one and a fall arrestor.


The good news?  I am still here, and I learned to call and get real help 
when climbing towers, it is no longer in my area of competence (if it 
ever was).


Cheers!

73 de Dave, W5SV
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RE: [Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT

2006-01-03 Thread James Kern
I learned that nail polish remover was actually paint thinner on the cabinet
of one of my boatanchors when I was much younger. I thought it would make a
good cleaner. It sure did.. Cleaned the cabinet right down to bare metal!
DOH! To this day I still have a reminder of that on the back corner of my
HQ-180.


James Kern
Network Administrator
Kurt S. Adler, Inc.
1107 Broadway
New York, NY 10010
212-924-0900 x222 (work)
212-807-0575 (fax)
908-451-6801 (cell)
800-209-7438 (pager)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Darwin, Keith
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 3:04 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT


I've been racking my brain to see if I've done anything stupid.
 
Well, there is that time I heated the sand of an ant hill with a magnifying
glass.  After 5 minutes nothing happened so I touched it see if it was hot.
Believe me it WAS!
 
I tried to make a watch demagnetizer by winding about 5 feet of wire around
a cardboard core and plugging the ends into the wall outlet. Thank God for
circuit breakers.
 
Worst of all was the time I came in from playing outside and found my 25
watt soldering iron on my bed.  The iron was on and the bedspread was burned
/ melted under the iron.  I had apparently left it plugged in when I went
outside hours earlier.
 
And of course there was that little surprise winter swim in a manure pit but
that is getting very OT!
 
- Keith KD1E -
 
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Component Installation Gaff? AcceptableCorrection?

2006-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Paul,

Well, to keep you going, I would suggest the soldered-on leads should be
adequate to carry the current, and will be OK for a while.  But some
consideration should be given to providing a good heat conductor through the
leads too.  I believe the continuous leads would  allow better heat
dissipation from the resistor.

If it were me, I would order a replacement, but you can use that one for now
with no harm - the current drawn is not very high until you start testing
the KPA100 at full output.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 Not fully reading the directions before installing the component, I
 immediately clipped off (at the respective holes where the two
 component leads were inserted) the leads after installing current
 sensing resistor R7 into the closest of the 3 holes on the two solder
 pads.  Would it be sufficient to solder short pieces of the clipped off
 R7 leads to the two pads, from the innermost holes on the pads (where
 the R7 leads have been soldered and flush-cut), or do I need to remove
 R7 and properly install a new, replacement resister?  Since, even
 thought there's plenty of electrical continuity, there's a physical
 discontinuity between the resister leads and the small clipped pieces
 of lead I've installed, I'm wondering if this is going to cause an
 electrical performance (or cooling) problem down the road, that can
 only be avoided by taking out the improperly installed component and
 installing a replacement component correctly.

 Thanks,
 Paul, N6LQ



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Re: [Elecraft] Weller WTCPT Solder Station

2006-01-03 Thread Timothy A. Raymer

At 15:51 01/02/2006, Paul Kelly wrote:

I need to replace the on-off switch for this soldering
iron station. Would anyone have the parts number
and/or best place to order from.


Gregory Beat, W9GB, seems to be even more obsessive about his love 
for the Weller soldering stations.  (I only have three.;-))


G. Beat [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Here is a couple of recent posts about Weller stuff from the forum:

---
The Weller station is still under Weller warranty -- IF less than 1 
year old.  I would definitely contact Weller / Cooper Tools for 
warranty repair.

http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/electronic_applications/index.htm

Here is the Adobe Acrobat warranty informaiton, note that out of 
warranty work can be expensive.

http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/electronic_applications/PDFs/WellerRepairPricingPolicy.pdf

Likely the problem is within the Weller base unit's electronics or 
possibly the temperature probe inside the iron.  Save yourself some 
$$ and hold off on an iron purchase that you may not need (this is 
NOT a TCP series - where an iron change is 95% possibility of the 
problem).  Call them Monday.


Greg
w9gb

Weller Contact information:

Repair Department
P.O. Box 728
Apex, NC 27539
1000 Lufkin Road
Apex, NC 27502
Phone: (800) 476-3030 Ext. 2
Fax: (919) 387-2640
www.cooperhandtools.com

--
--
BTW, the fellow I talked to at Weller tech support, Bubba Powers, is
outstanding.  I left him a voice mail this morning, and he called me back a
few hours later.  He was also very helpful.  800-476-3030 is his number if
you have any Weller iron problems.
--

Hope this helps!

Tim Raymer
73 de KA0OUV
K2 #1383


Timothy A. Raymer
Missouri Department of Health
and Senior Services

traymer[at]mail.state.mo.usRaymeT[at]dhss.mo.gov
KA0OUV[at]arrl.net

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[Elecraft] Yet another on the stupid thread

2006-01-03 Thread Chuck Mabbott
OK, my daughter was going to replace the switch cover in her room.  Next 
thing we heard the pop of a fuse blowing and she jumped...  Ask her what 
happened and she said a spark jumped and the lights went out.  I told her 
you can't do that with power on and Don't be silly dad, I turned the switch 
off.


I got her a bulletin from the hardware store about electrical safety that 
afternoon.


73
Chuck
AA8VS

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RE: [Elecraft] Mistakes (WAS: One more on the stupid thread)

2006-01-03 Thread tom.w3qs
Love this thread, makes me feel more 'normal'.  However, from an earlier
post... 

-Original Message-

... In power supplies the mains voltage is absolutely deadly.

The father in me yearns to leave this alone, but the physics teacher in me
requires me to set this record straight.

Except in pretty extreme circumstances, mains voltages (in the US where the
mains run around 117 VAC) are not generally considered fatal.

As we all (should) know, it ain't the voltage that does ya in, its the
current.  While it only takes about 24 volts to push a fatal current, it all
boils down to Ohm's Law.

A typically healthy person has a normal body resistance of about 100,000
ohms (a pretty low estimate), and across a 117 volt line, that's only about
0.0012 amps, a bit more than one milliamp, which is not a fatal current.  It
should take 50 times that much (for a second or longer if through the heart
or brain) to do a person in, although you can certainly feel 1 milliamp!
Even considering that 117 is RMS, and the actual voltage can be as high as
170, you should still be safe.

Now, all bets are off if you're standing in a pool of water or are drenched
from rain, or do everything else wrong.  

Best advice I ever got was from an old navy chief (when I was a young
radioman), to wit:  One hand for the Navy, one hand for yourself.  IOW,
when working on anything that could possibly have live current, keep one
hand behind your back.  Completing a circuit with both hands puts your
pumper in the circuit which is powered by electricity.

Tom

 


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[Elecraft] More Stupidity

2006-01-03 Thread Gregg mulder
Seeing all of these Stupid posts reminded me of one of mine. Another story of 
experimenting with our good friend  AC wall outlets. 1965, I was in the 6th 
grade. In science class we learned abt the making of Mr. Edison's electric 
light. upon returning home I decieded to make my own !  I borrowed an old mason 
jar from my mom and removed an old lamp cord from a dead lamp got a hammer es 
some nails and started to build !  You were supposed to put the nails into a 
rubber stopper, wrap some nichrome wire between the nails, put the stopper in 
the top of the jar, attach the power leads to the nails, and make light !  Well 
as luck would have it I didn't have a rubber stopper, so i just used the metal 
top of the mason jar. I pounded the nails halfway into the lid shorting them 
and carefully wrapped some wire around the nails. I lit a peice of paper on 
fire and put it in the jar es secured the the lid to burn off the oxygen in the 
jar. then attached the 2 ends of the lamp cord t
 o the
 nails protruding from the top of the jar. I set the LAMP on the bed and went 
to plug it in to the nearest wall outlet fully expecting to see light. when I 
plugeged it in I saw light alright. Arcs en sparks from everywhere ! I blew all 
the fuses in the house, but not before watching my lightbulb blow up, es the 
lamp cord melt onto my bed spread catching it on fire !  I must have jumped 10 
feet in the air !  I beat the fire out just in time to hear my mom yelling  
what's going on in there ?  I was still shaking when my mom entered the smoke 
filled room. And although i was lucky to have not been electricuted, that 
episode did end my Edison experiments. I was also pleasantly supprised that I 
didn't get a wippin when my dad got home from work. Guess they figured i'd 
learned my lesson. And then there was radio
  Hope u enjoyed one of my stupid moments.  73  Gregg  WB8LZG
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Re: [Elecraft] the fine line between stupid and curious

2006-01-03 Thread Simon Brown (HB9DRV)

There's logic in this idea.

When also 9 I decided to turn my father's shortwave receiver into a 
transmitter by wiring a microphone in series with the mains cable. Thank 
goodness it was an ex-army bakelite microphone - when I pressed the button 
all the lights went out!


Simon Brown
---
http://blog.hb9drv.ch/

- Original Message - 
From: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED]


At about age 9, I came into possession of a 5 square, midrange TV 
speaker. It had heavy-duty leads, stripped, tinned, and ready to go. I 
wondered what 60 Hz sounded like, and there was no shortage of AC outlets 
in my room. 


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Re: [Elecraft] Yet another on the stupid thread

2006-01-03 Thread W2AGN

Chuck Mabbott wrote:
OK, my daughter was going to replace the switch cover in her room.  Next 
thing we heard the pop of a fuse blowing and she jumped...  Ask her 
what happened and she said a spark jumped and the lights went out.  I 
told her you can't do that with power on and Don't be silly dad, I 
turned the switch off.


I got her a bulletin from the hardware store about electrical safety 
that afternoon.


73
Chuck
AA8VS



Didn't realize there were so many blondes around until this thread started


--
   _ _ _ _ _
  / \   / \   / \   / \   / \   John L. Sielke
 ( W ) ( 2 ) ( A ) ( G ) ( N )  http://w2agn.net
  \_/   \_/   \_/   \_/   \_/
CRUSTY OLD CURMUDGEON - AND PROUD OF IT!


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Re: [Elecraft] the fine line between stupid and curious

2006-01-03 Thread Simon Brown (HB9DRV)
I should point out that at age 9 I managed a sort of series - parallel 
arrangement. The fact that I am still breathing shows that I couldn't even 
blow myself up properly.


Simon Brown
---
http://blog.hb9drv.ch/

- Original Message - 
From: Simon Brown (HB9DRV) [EMAIL PROTECTED]




There's logic in this idea.

When also 9 I decided to turn my father's shortwave receiver into a 
transmitter by wiring a microphone in series with the mains cable. Thank 
goodness it was an ex-army bakelite microphone - when I pressed the button 
all the lights went out!




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[Elecraft] Accuracy of K1's built-in power / swr meter?

2006-01-03 Thread Stephanie Maks

Hi everyone,

I am wondering how accurate is the built-in metering of the K1?

For all of my testing and alignment etc. I've been running the K1  
through an MFJ cross-needle HF meter, and I've noticed that there is  
a very consistant difference in the display on the MFJ meter and what  
the K1 reports.  The MFJ meter is always reporting between 1 watt and  
1.5 watts lower power than the K1 indicates.  For example, with the  
K1 set to 2 watts out, in Tune mode, the display on the K1 wanders  
around between 1.9 and 2.2 while the MFJ meter seems quite stable at  
1 watt.  At higher powers, such as when finding a peak during  
alignment, the K1 indicates as high as 7+ watts, while the MFJ only  
goes as high as about 5 watts.


Normally, I tend to trust the analog meter over the digital stuff,  
but in this case the MFJ meter was dropped last month and might have  
sustained some damage.  Plus, it's not really intended as a QRP meter  
so it might not be that accurate at low powers.


I also have the KAT-1 and I understand that its meter is 'more  
accurate' than what's in the base K1, but not really sure how much more.


Thanks!

73 de Stephanie
va3uxb

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Remote Operating Question

2006-01-03 Thread Jeff Davis
Thanks for the many responses to my inquiry. I plan to look at the sites 
mentioned this evening.


Vy 73,

Jeff Davis wrote:
I would like to be able to control a rig and run various digital modes 
remotely from my wireless network. I imagine a rig setup in the shack 
that I can access from my wireless laptop in the other part of the 
house. I'd like to be capable of running psk31 and other keyboard modes 
in this manner.


I'm pretty certain that I have read about others doing this, but I have 
had no luck finding any online resources to explain how it is done.


Any pointers to online or printed resources would be appreciated.

73,



--
Jeff, KE9V
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RE: [Elecraft] the fine line between stupid and curious

2006-01-03 Thread EricJ
If you had experimented with earphones, all of us here would all be using
Japanese transceivers today. 

Eric
KE6US
www.ke6us.com 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of wayne burdick
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 11:31 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] the fine line between stupid and curious

This thread is vaguely disturbing, but I'll add my 2 cents.

At about age 9, I came into possession of a 5 square, midrange TV speaker.
It had heavy-duty leads, stripped, tinned, and ready to go. I wondered what
60 Hz sounded like, and there was no shortage of AC outlets in my room.

Fortunately for my young ears, the speaker coil vaporized within a few
seconds.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Yet another on the stupid thread

2006-01-03 Thread Rob Locher
When I was about seven, I read books at night when I was supposed to be  
sleeping, by the light of a night-light.  The problem was that the  
night-light wasn't very bright.  So what did I do?  I attached the  
night-light to an extension power cord, and held one end of the extension  
cord with my teeth.


One night, some of my saliva got into the plug...  I don't think I tripped  
any circuit breakers, but the shock sure rang my bells.


How did we ever survive childhood?

- Rob KE7EAG
K2 #5004 (almost finished)



On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 13:26:17 -0800, Chuck Mabbott [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
wrote:


OK, my daughter was going to replace the switch cover in her room.  Next  
thing we heard the pop of a fuse blowing and she jumped...  Ask her  
what happened and she said a spark jumped and the lights went out.  I  
told her you can't do that with power on and Don't be silly dad, I  
turned the switch off.


I got her a bulletin from the hardware store about electrical safety  
that afternoon.


73
Chuck
AA8VS


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Re: [Elecraft] the fine line between stupid and curious

2006-01-03 Thread Stephanie Maks
When I was in my early teens I was working on some project or  
another, that used the mains power.  I remember I was always  
unhooking and rehooking it as I worked on it so I ended up just using  
a mains cord with an inline switch, that ended in a pair of aligator  
clips.


At one point I had it all hooked up and wanted to show my parents my  
project, so I pushed the button and something I'd installed  
incorrectly on the project vaporized with the surge of AC power.   
Unknown to me, this surge also fused the switch contacts closed.   
Dissapointed I 'turned off' the switch and grabbed the aligator clips  
(one with each  hand) to remove them from the circuit.  That was my  
first introduction to 120VAC in one arm and out the other.


It didn't knock me out but I sure jumped, and it left both hands and  
forearms numb for about 15 minutes.


Oh and needless to say, the folks were very underwhelmed with my  
electronics skills.  Happily they never did anything to try and put  
me off electronics, just encouraged me to be a little more careful.


My first exposure to elecricity though came when I was much younger,  
perhaps only about 5.  I had a little record player and one time  
while plugging it in, I was holding the little 2-prong plug wrong.   
Basicaly my thumb was touching one prong and a finger touching the  
other prong.  The player must have had a transformer or something  
that was hooked into the circuit because although I got some current,  
it was not the least bit uncomfortable.  It felt like my whole hand  
was being massaged from the inside.  Once I 'discovered' this, I did  
it again a number of times, as it was a bit of a kick.  I know I  
showed the 'trick' to my sister but I'm pretty sure I never shared  
that with the parents - I didn't want them to take away the record  
player.


73 de
Stephanie
va3uxb

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Re: [Elecraft] Accuracy of K1's built-in power / swr meter?

2006-01-03 Thread Stephanie Maks

Thanks Jim!

Sorry I should have clarified, when I was testing / comparing the  
KAT1 to the MFJ I had the KAT1 set to CLP which bypasses/disables the  
tuning.  I know if the KAT1 is set to TUN then it's not going to  
present 50 ohms on the antenna jack.


73 de Stephanie
va3uxb

On 03-Jan-2006, at 17.48.57, k4zm wrote:


Stephanie:

If you have the KAT1 in the K1 and have the MFJ meter connected to  
the output of the K1 you are looking at an inaccurate reading on  
the MFJ because it is located between the antenna  and the input of  
the tuner.  The only place to read it accurately would be to place  
your MFJ meter between the KAT1 and the K1.  This is almost  
impossible to do. Since you are between the antenna and the KAT1  
your MFJ is not looking at 50 load and the reactances of the  
antenna that are tuned out by the tuner are destroying the  
accurately of the MFJ Meter.


73
Jim Younce K4ZM




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Re: [Elecraft] the fine line between stupid and curious

2006-01-03 Thread Nick Waterman
 That was my  first introduction
 to 120VAC in one arm and out the other.

Pah, you're all a bunch o' wimps! 240V in EU   ;-)

-- 
Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, k2 #5209.
#include stddisclaimer[EMAIL PROTECTED]
The gene pool could use a little chlorine.
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Re: [Elecraft] the fine line between stupid and curious

2006-01-03 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
When I was 5 I brought a hot wire electrician's test screwdriver with 
a neon bulb and resistor inside to my kindergarten vlass for Show and 
Tell.  I told the teacher, You just stick this screwdriver in the 
outlet and ... For some reason they wouldn't let me show the class.

Leigh / WA5ZNU
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[Elecraft] KX1 sensitivity problem

2006-01-03 Thread Pier Luigi
Hallo Elecrafters,

last afternoon I went through KX1 receiver alignment but the results
were disappointing.

Not having a signal generator, I connected the KX1 to my W3DZZ.
By turning the capacitance trimmers, I could peak band noise, but
could barely hear the strongest signal on the bands, although I could
hear several good signals on both 20 and 40m when switching to my K1,
which should have about the same sensitivity.
Checked L1 and L2 with a DVM: both were  1ohm; tried to inject a
signal into the path from the antenna jack to CA/L6/R1/CB/L7 by
touching with a wire and couldn't find any interruption.
Voltages on the pins of U4,U5,U6, Q2/Q3 agree with the manual.
I measured the voltage on the base of Q7 and found -0.4V, which is
funny as R28 is floating (R26 not in place yet) and I can't understand
why it should have a negative voltage.

Anybody out there who had the same problem or could give me a hint?
Any suggestion is welcome.

Tnx es 73
de Pier, IK1RDN

K2 s/n 4104
K1 s/n 1975
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Re: [Elecraft] the fine line between stupid and curious

2006-01-03 Thread Larry Makoski W2LJ

Nick Waterman wrote:


That was my  first introduction
to 120VAC in one arm and out the other.
   



Pah, you're all a bunch o' wimps! 240V in EU   ;-)

 


Power usage being equal, this would mean less current.

73 de Larry W2LJ

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Re: [Elecraft] the fine line between stupid and curious

2006-01-03 Thread Larry Makoski W2LJ
Two events in my life caused me to have a healthy respect for 
electricity.  The first occurred when I was 5 or 6 years old.  I was 
home  from school with the flu; and I remember that it must have been a 
particularly bad spell as Mom had a vaporizer going in my room.  One 
morning as I was getting better, she told me to unplug it for the 
daytime.  I pulled on the plug (not the wire!) and pulled and pulled and 
pulled; but it wouldn't budge.  Being somewhat mechanically minded, I 
decided I needed a lever to pry it out.  My sister's letter opener 
seemed like just the ticket.  Boy, the house went dark real fast, the 
letter opener vaporized and I nearly messed myself!  Dad was NOT happy 
with having to come home from work to change out the fuse in the fuse box!


The second incident came at where I work now.  Since incident number 1 
above, I had always had a healthy respect for electricity.  I repair 
professional photographic studio equipment for a living and am always in 
contact with stroboscopic packs which can deliver a flash up to 3200 
Joules.  Needless to day, I'm always very careful.  Then came the one 
day that I started to repair a flash head that a photographer tried to 
fix himself - couldn't; but didn't tell me that he tried!  I hooked up 
the head to a pack, held it in my hand and fired it.  Normally, the 
housing is grounded.  He had mistakenly wired hot to the housing.  I 
think I threw that flash head across the room with enough force to throw 
it through the wall!  My arm was numb for about 15 minutes; and after 
that, I always gave things a visual going over before trying them out. 

I still have a healthy respect for electricity and an even healthier 
respect for the fact that someone else's mistakes might cause me grave 
danger!


73 de Larry W2LJ

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RE: [Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT - NIR-12 troubleshooting

2006-01-03 Thread James C. Hall, MD


Well, I must humbly submit my most recent gaff. It's nothing like landing
long on a short runway (yikes!), but it relates to my inquiry on
troubleshooting my JPS NIR-12. 

For several days now, Don W3FPR has been trying to help me figure out why
power was not being applied to this unit. It was thought to be a bad diode
running in series in the 12 volt line. Why was I getting 13 volts on the
anode and virtually no volts on the cathode side. It was as if there was no
ground on the cathode side of the circuit. I tried shorting the diode which
made an impressive smoke job of an electrolytic capacitor shunting to
ground.

Well then I retraced my steps. I discovered that when I pulled the unit out
of the shelf, the Radio Shack modular power plug (which goes to a 'wall
wart') came off the 2-prong saddle on the wire. I merely plugged it back in
the saddle. The AHAH moment came when I checked the polarity of the plug - I
had accidentally reversed the polarity of this plug (VERY easy to do with
these modular plugs). The diode was simply doing what it was designed to do
- protect the unit against dumb things like this.

In the immortal word of Homer Simpson - D'oh !!!

Don, thanks for being SOo patient with me !!!

73, Jamie
WB4YDL
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Re: [Elecraft] One more on the stupid thread

2006-01-03 Thread Paul Gates, KD3JF
I will just chime in and give 2 experiences. We had moved to a farm house and I 
was trying to get a rope over a certain branch. I used a small hammer tied to 
the end of the rope and was throwing it up in the air to get over the branch. 
The hammer was coming towards me as I tried to move on icy ground, and I put my 
hands over my head. They protected my head but hit hard one of my finger nails. 
I got a needle and sterilized it and worked in around to get a hole in my nail 
to relieve the pressure. I was not 9 years old but 33 years old!
 
I had a homebrew amp with 2-813 tubes. The cabinet was perforated aluminum. It 
looked like one of the 813s was glowing red so I had taken the top off and was 
talking on 20 meters I discovered the tube that was glowing red and decided 
just to set the top back on the amp. Instead one corner of the aluminum top 
dipped into the amp and touched the cap on one of the 813s. That was an 
exilerating experience. The perforated top went flying off to the left and my 
104D mike went flying off to the right. I was thankful to be alive. I did not 
have a good feeling for about an hour. 2200volts at 500millamps! Incidently I 
still have the D104 mike and the last time I used it on a Ten Tec 544 Triton IV 
it worked very good. 36 years old.
 
Well, here is one more. I was in northern Mich. in the winter and need to get 
on the roof of the house to make some adjustments on a antenna. The roof was 
full of snow and ice underneath so I climbed up a ladder and threw some salt on 
the pathway to the peak of the roof. I then got off the ladder and put my golf 
shoes on and climed up the roof. Very crazy thing to do.
 
 
Paul Gates, KD3JF 
Elecraft Kits:
K1 #0231
KX1 #1186
XG1: Signal Generator 


- Original Message 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 1:49:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] One more on the stupid thread


Classic Homers of mine:

- Climb tree, install halyard rope for antenna. Forget to tie rope ends 
together. Climb down tree,
breeze shakes tree, short end of rope goes up and over branch.   

Climb tree *again*


- Two lovely NOS 837 tubes, ready to sell. Neat-and-clean but 
not-perfectly-level workbench. Concrete basement floor. 

One lovely NOS 837 tube, ready to sell.


- I'll back up those files tomorrow...



73 de Jim, N2EY

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Re: [Elecraft] Mistakes (WAS: One more on the stupid thread)

2006-01-03 Thread K6TFZ
As we all (should) know, it ain't the voltage that does ya in, its the  
current.
 
I understand that the imposition of 60 Hz can cause the heart to  fibrillate
(flutter uncontrollably) and that's what does you in.
 
Geoff, K6TFZ
 
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Fw: [Elecraft] OT: Remote Operating Question

2006-01-03 Thread Gregg R. Lengling


Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Un-Retired
K2/100 SN 3075
http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org

- Original Message - 
From: Gregg R. Lengling [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Leigh L Klotz, Jr. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Remote Operating Question


I found one of the easiest ways is just use HRD (Ham Radio DeluxeFREE ) 
and if you want to run audio just use Skype with autoanswer.  It works 
great, I take my laptop to work on my long days and use the WiFi at work to 
play on the bands.  And the IT guy at work thought he was a nerd, at least 
until he walked into my office one day and saw me on the laptop.


Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Un-Retired
K2/100 SN 3075
http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org

- Original Message - 
From: Leigh L Klotz, Jr. [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Larry Phipps [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Jeff Davis [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Remote Operating Question


In the APRPack Yahoo group we are working on a set of TCP protocols for 
remote and local operation of digimode software.  One goal is remote 
operation as you suggest.  Another is to allow client software to run 
locally and interact with the modem software.   A third goal is to allow 
UI designers to make good programs for hams to use, and to let DSP 
designers make good modems, and then to let us lucky hams mix and match.


I built a prototype and have screenshots at http://wa5znu.org/rpsk but we 
are now looking into the issues the prototype raised.  I also demo'd a 
cell phone client once and there are screenshots there.


Leigh / WA5ZNU
On Tue, 3 Jan 2006 9:11 am, Larry Phipps wrote:
Jeff, take a look at my website, www.telepostinc.com. Go to the links 
about remote control and software control. Also, if you take QST, look 
in the October 2005 issue for my article on remote control. If you're 
not a member, I can email you a copy.


73,
Larry N8LP


Jeff Davis wrote:

I would like to be able to control a rig and run various digital modes 
remotely from my wireless network. I imagine a rig setup in the shack 
that I can access from my wireless laptop in the other part of the 
house. I'd like to be capable of running psk31 and other keyboard modes 
in this manner.


I'm pretty certain that I have read about others doing this, but I have 
had no luck finding any online resources to explain how it is done.


Any pointers to online or printed resources would be appreciated.

73,


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[Elecraft] One of my stupid mistakes

2006-01-03 Thread HSHERRIFF
Ok, I had just graduated electronics trade school. You know, 20 
months of intense training in everything from component identification 
to superhet receiver theory, to radar fundamentals. It was in 1970 
just before I entered the military.

I was visiting my parents home in Florida on a humid summer day. My 
parent's new TV was making some strange arcing sounds coming from 
around the picture tube high voltage lead. Yep, the humidity was 
making it easy for the voltage to jump to the chassis. Well, my Dad 
was reclining in his favorite recliner, watching me take the back off 
the TV. I borrowed a screwdriver (an oil impregnated wooden handled 
kind) from him. My technical expertise said, just move the HV lead 
away from the chassis where it is arcing. So, that is what I started 
to do, with the set on, so I could monitor my efforts. Naturally, the 
screwdriver conducted the 15+ thousand volts to ME. The next thing I 
remember was him laughing at me after I picked myself up from the 
other side of the room... saying, yep, you are going to make one 
heck of a technician.

73 Harlan KI4IDA

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Re: [Elecraft] One more on the stupid thread

2006-01-03 Thread Bill Coleman


On Jan 3, 2006, at 9:45 AM, Albers wrote:

It was at that moment that I discovered that Mack trucks of that  
vintage had positive ground!! Ever see a box end wrench instantly  
get converted to an open end??


This reminds me of a slightly apocryphal story. At a telephone  
office, a fellow was servicing some equipment. Old telephone offices  
had a 48 volt backup battery supply to run the phone system. It used  
huge NiCad batteries and was distributed by large copper buss bars  
below the floor.


Anyway, this fellow had part of the floor pulled up, and he dropped a  
wrench. It just happened to fall across the buss bars, shorting out  
the 48 volt supply.


As it was described to me, the wrench melted instantly, and just kept  
on falling between the buss bars


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] the fine line between stupid and curious

2006-01-03 Thread Joe-aa4nn

I wrapped my fingers around the Elecraft BL1 balun to see if it
was getting warm while transmitting...  duh...  100+ RF Watts.
de Joe, aa4nn


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[Elecraft] Time for a new Volume pot?

2006-01-03 Thread Bill Allen
The volume knob has gotten very, very touchy lately.  Very scratchy when
adjusting and suddenly blaring at top volume.  Is it time for a new volume
pot on my K2?

73,
Bill Allen - wa5pb
K2# 1068

 

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RE: [Elecraft] Time for a new Volume pot?

2006-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bill,

It certainly does sound like your present volume control is worn out.
Replacement is likely easier than trying to 'monkey' with those
'restoration' fixes IMHO - I have never had much luck with the sprays, drops
and other stuff that is supposed to repair controls.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 The volume knob has gotten very, very touchy lately.  Very scratchy when
 adjusting and suddenly blaring at top volume.  Is it time for a new volume
 pot on my K2?

 73,
 Bill Allen - wa5pb
 K2# 1068


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Re: [Elecraft] Time for a new Volume pot?

2006-01-03 Thread Brent Sutphin WB4X
Don could you give some guidance concerning the replacement.  I have to do 
the same thing on my K2.



- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 10:05 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Time for a new Volume pot?



Bill,

It certainly does sound like your present volume control is worn out.
Replacement is likely easier than trying to 'monkey' with those
'restoration' fixes IMHO - I have never had much luck with the sprays, 
drops

and other stuff that is supposed to repair controls.

73,
Don W3FPR


-Original Message-

The volume knob has gotten very, very touchy lately.  Very scratchy when
adjusting and suddenly blaring at top volume.  Is it time for a new 
volume

pot on my K2?

73,
Bill Allen - wa5pb
K2# 1068



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Re: [Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT

2006-01-03 Thread Joe Malloy

Darwin, Keith wrote:


Worst of all was the time I came in from playing outside and found my 25
watt soldering iron on my bed.  The iron was on and the bedspread was
burned / melted under the iron.  I had apparently left it plugged in
when I went outside hours earlier.



Soldering irons! That reminds me of another goof-up: I was working as a 
radio technician for the city of Binghamton, NY, and was, of course, 
quite used (ha!) to soldering.  One day, while repairing some old boat 
anchor of a VHF public works radio I suddenly smelled and odd smell, it 
almost (!) smelled like human fleshwell, it *was* flesh -- mine: I 
had put my left hand down on top of the plugged-in iron (some Weller 
unit) and apparently missed any nerve endings that might have reacted to 
the heat.  I bear the scar of a Weller tip and barrel to this day -- and 
I've never done that again.


Ah, the good ole days!

73,

Joe, W2RBA




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RE: [Elecraft] Time for a new Volume pot?

2006-01-03 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
From the serial number you might consider making the audio gain pot mod
while you're in there if it hasn't been done yet. It makes a huge difference
in how the audio pot operates, making adjustment less touch even with a new
pot. 

On the Elecraft web site, go to Builder's Resources / Application Notes / K2
AF Pot Application Note for details. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Allen
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 6:51 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Time for a new Volume pot?


The volume knob has gotten very, very touchy lately.  Very scratchy when
adjusting and suddenly blaring at top volume.  Is it time for a new volume
pot on my K2?

73,
Bill Allen - wa5pb
K2# 1068

 

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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.11/219 - Release Date: 1/2/2006
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT

2006-01-03 Thread Jim Campbell
In my younger years I developed the bad habit of scratching an itch with 
whatever tool I had in my hand at the time.


Yep, you guessed it.  One day I absent-mindedly scratched my head with a 
hot soldering iron.  I had a patch of gray hair on the side of my head 
for years until all my hair turned gray.


Anyone remember drawing an arc off the plate cap of a transmitter tube 
with a wooden lead pencil?


72,

Jim
W4BQP

Joe Malloy wrote:

I bear the scar of a Weller tip and barrel to this day -- and I've 
never done that again.



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RE: [Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT

2006-01-03 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Jim W4BQP wrote:
Anyone remember drawing an arc off the plate cap of a transmitter tube 
with a wooden lead pencil?

-

Many times! Only 1,000 vdc or so on there and enough RF to create a burn
that hurt like @[EMAIL PROTECTED] for a month if it found bare skin! 

What was it Forrest Gump taught us? Ah, yes, Stupid is as stupid does... 

It's mostly ignorance, though, not stupidity, and some of it pays off. Like
the engineer who was developing magnetron power oscillators for radar
systems in the 1940's and discovered that the chocolate bar in his nice
white shirt pocket had melted and made a mess. Curious, he investigated why.
The first Microwave Oven was the result - sold as the Radar Range. At
least he got his revenge for the ruined shirt. I haven't gotten that sort of
revenge yet. Still looking (where's my lead pencil?)

Ron AC7AC


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RE: [Elecraft] Time for a new Volume pot?

2006-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Brent,

Since you asked, the pot replacement is actually rather easy - just take it
one step at a time - first remove the front panel from the K2 (don't forget
the screws from the control panel to the front panel on the inside); then
remove all the knobs and the one screw next ot the VCO encoder to separate
the front panel board from the metal panel.
After that, remove the pot itself in whatever way you remove such
soldering - if you do not have a powered desoldering tool, I suggest that
the easiest way is to destroy the existing pot (no sense in preserving it,
you were going to throw it away anyhow).  With a set of heavy diagonal
cutters, first cut off the 3 pins and then crush the pot body a bit so you
can cut the two mounting ears off - after that, you can easily heat the
stubs left in the board pull them out - clean up with solder wick and put
the new pot on the board - re-assemble after doing the AF Gain pot wiring
mod (if applicable).

And as Ron pointed out - if your K2 serial number is less than 3000
(probably is if you are replacing the pot), make the changes for the AF Gain
pot wiring mod - it will make a difference in the future for longevity of
your new AF gain pot and makes the AF Gain control less 'touchy' and less
noisy.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Don could you give some guidance concerning the replacement.  I
 have to do
 the same thing on my K2.

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[Elecraft] 20th century K2s (was RE: Time for a new Volume pot?)

2006-01-03 Thread Jeff Stai

hi Ron - ol' #525 has been getting pretty scratchy lately, and it has 
the AF Pot Mod. I guess they just get old and scratchy like the rest 
of us...;-)

I found my misplaced XG1 the other day and went around measuring rigs. 
#1250 was singing along at MDS=-136dBm, but #525 wasn't close (haven't 
used it since Field Day, I'm afraid). After a bit of poking around, I 
found a marginal solder joint had finally gone bad in the T-R switch 
(RFC2). Some new solder and good as #1250!

cheers! - jeff wk6i


At 07:54 PM 1/3/2006, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
From the serial number you might consider making the audio gain pot mod
while you're in there if it hasn't been done yet. It makes a huge difference
in how the audio pot operates, making adjustment less touch even with a new
pot. 

On the Elecraft web site, go to Builder's Resources / Application Notes / K2
AF Pot Application Note for details. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Allen
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 6:51 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Time for a new Volume pot?


The volume knob has gotten very, very touchy lately.  Very scratchy when
adjusting and suddenly blaring at top volume.  Is it time for a new volume
pot on my K2?

73,
Bill Allen - wa5pb
K2# 1068

--
Jeff Stai   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Twisted Oak Winery  http://www.twistedoak.com/


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RE: [Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT

2006-01-03 Thread EricJ
At K2USA we had a BC-610 in the main studio (1964). It stood a little over
desk high and was truly the Mother of all Boatanchors. To tune it, you had
to lift a small hatch in the top surface and rotate a link coupling. But, of
course, you had to switch off the B+ first. If you forgot to do that, there
was an interlock on the small hatch to cut the B+.

We had two military operators (not hams) who handled the MARS traffic for us
so we could ham. Somebody had discovered that the interlock was not working
earlier in the day. I taped down the hatch, taped a note over that so the
ops would have to remove the note to open the hatch, told the two ops to be
absolutely sure they shut off the B+ before tuning the TX and left for home.

An hour later, I get a call that one of the ops had been electrocuted and
taken to sick call. Well he hadn't been electrocuted exactly. He opened the
hatch, rested his elbow on the top, reached in with a screwdriver to tweak
the link and hit the high voltage with the TX keyed. It blew a 1/4 inch hole
out his elbow where it contacted the top surface.

They patched him up, gave him a tetanus shot and gave him the night off. I
asked the doc why he got a tetanus shot and he said RF burns seem to cook
below the surface somewhat and the tetanus shot helps internal damage heal
faster for some reason.

I was stupid to allow them to use the TX, and I was stupid not to realize
how stupid the op was.

We get really careless with all the solid-state gear. Often even dropping a
screw in an operating circuit, or carelessly dragging a test lead through a
hot ciruit fails to do anything. Many of these circuits just bounce right
back once the short is removed (not always). The second day I had my Drake
2-NT, I moved a wire out of the way with my finger and got a little 350v DC
wake-up for my carelessness. It's something that is done routinely in my
Elecraft gear. Maybe this interesting series will remind us that there are
dangers inherent in this hobby.

Eric
KE6US
www.ke6us.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 8:40 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT

Jim W4BQP wrote:
Anyone remember drawing an arc off the plate cap of a transmitter tube with
a wooden lead pencil?

-

Many times! Only 1,000 vdc or so on there and enough RF to create a burn
that hurt like @[EMAIL PROTECTED] for a month if it found bare skin! 
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[Elecraft] RE: 20th century K2s (was RE: Time for a new Volume pot?)

2006-01-03 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Jeff WK6I wrote:

hi Ron - ol' #525 has been getting pretty scratchy lately, and it has 
the AF Pot Mod. I guess they just get old and scratchy like the rest 
of us...;-)

I found my misplaced XG1 the other day and went around measuring rigs. 
#1250 was singing along at MDS=-136dBm, but #525 wasn't close (haven't 
used it since Field Day, I'm afraid). After a bit of poking around, I 
found a marginal solder joint had finally gone bad in the T-R switch 
(RFC2). Some new solder and good as #1250!

---

Hi Jeff: 

Yes, the audio pots do get old. That's why I didn't suggest the mod as a
fix. Bill's K2 pretty obviously has a worn-out pot, but it's a good
investment to do the mod while its apart to install a new pot.

It can be downright scary how long an unsoldered joint or a poorly soldered
joint will work just fine! They are time bombs waiting sometimes years
before showing up as an intermittent for other weird behavior.  

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT

2006-01-03 Thread Joe Malloy

EricJ wrote:


At K2USA we had a BC-610 in the main studio (1964). It stood a little over
desk high and was truly the Mother of all Boatanchors. To tune it, you had
to lift a small hatch in the top surface and rotate a link coupling. But, of
course, you had to switch off the B+ first. If you forgot to do that, there
was an interlock on the small hatch to cut the B+.

We had two military operators (not hams) who handled the MARS traffic for us
so we could ham. Somebody had discovered that the interlock was not working
earlier in the day. I taped down the hatch, taped a note over that so the
ops would have to remove the note to open the hatch, told the two ops to be
absolutely sure they shut off the B+ before tuning the TX and left for home.



Ah, yes, the B+ supply!  Another stupid event I recall was when I was 
working on my Galaxy V MkII transceiver -- the transmitter section -- 
and didn't realize the B+ (ca 600 volts) was *always* switched on when 
the thing was even only receiving.  I brushed against the loading 
capacitor (variable, natch) and, well, let's just say the scars on my 
palm are still visible.


I really like the 12 volt solid state stuff.  Oh, and by the way -- it 
was right after the aforementioned experience that I developed an 
interest in QRP (1975)!


73,

Joe, W2RBA



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RE: [Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT

2006-01-03 Thread Bill NY9H
in high school I worked for the local tv shop...  helping in the 
store and doing alot of roof antenna work, inside the hot attics 
also,.,,,  so I had a lot of end of spool runs of 300 ohm 
twinline...  So I used it for my s-38 antenna,,,and my telephone 
line my intercom in the neighborhood and even sometimes feeding 
110vac around the bedroom.


I also used to strip the twinlead with my teeth that ended one 
night when i stripped the wrong wire  the one plugged in the wall.


That probably is why later in life my company represented a company called
Mountain Computer who made HDD drives  backups for apples and IBM 
pcs, before wither sold hard drives. I musta been crazy !!!
ERIC WAS THE CHIEF ENGINEER.  we reacquainted  at Dayton as he  
Wayne introduced the K2.


bill   sn  269  32xx

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[Elecraft] 6W from KX1?

2006-01-03 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I bet this is trying to tell me something, but I don't know what.
Tonight, my KX1 (with KXAT1 ATU) tunes up my doublet on 40m
and tells me that it's putting out 6W, with a 1.0 match.

That just doesn't seem right. The 20m result is about 4W, as expected.
I'm running from a 13.8v supply.

Huh?

(Bands were horrible anyway - strong noise right on 7038 and SSB on 7040...)

73 de chris K6DBG
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