[Elecraft] remove me from the list.

2016-02-11 Thread W0WFH Bill via Elecraft
Eric:Please remove me from the list.Thank you.Bill Hudson, W0WFHLinn, Mo.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Microphones

2016-02-11 Thread Dick Dickinson
I use a Yaesu MD-100A8x 'desk mike,' but in a boom.  Dynamic, no bias.

 

 

73,

Dick - KA5KKT

 

 

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[Elecraft] Microham Microkeyer II, RFI in mike with my K3

2016-02-11 Thread Bernhard.Horst
Good morning gents...



I have RFI in the mike since using the Microkeyer II from Mikroham.



Mainly on 20m and the lower bands when transmitting with about 700watts and 
above.

My antenna is about 5meters above the shack on the roof of my house (2 el 
Ultrabeam), but the effect also can be observed on the lower bands where the 
vertical is about 12 meters away from the shack. ==> Direct RFI?



I am using the front mike jack on my K3 and Microkeyer

- I have put a capacitor across USB and connector ground in the Microkeyer as 
recommended by Microham.

- All devices are grounded on common ground and same wall plug.

- I have extra grounded my PCs ground with USB ground as the resistance was not 
good enough..its now 2 Ohms USB between USB and connector ground. Also 
recommendation by Microham.

- Bought an extra shielded USB cable and put ferrite cords on.

- Mic line is shielded and ferrite cords in every cable and line

- Common mode chokes at the antenna feedpoint and also at the end of the coax 
going into the shack.

- Pin 8 of the mike jack is not connected. See 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-quot-RF-Feedback-quot-and-microHAM-MK2R-or-microKEYER-II-td1080853.html

Microham is stating on their website that it has to do with the wiring of the 
K3 mike lines in the frontpanel..

I am really lost and helpful for any ideas. Is there an alternative to Microham?

Thinking about going back to my old USB interface, but integration of Radio, 
Software and Ultrabeam is really nice

We had a similar issue on our clubstation and could cure it with ferrites...on 
a YAESU rig.

Any hint is appreciated..and thanks for quick feedback as usual.

Already dropped a line to Elecraft support if they have some hints...



I am glad the effect does not show on CW :-)



Many thanks in advance.



Best 73s

Bernie

DL5RDP
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[Elecraft] K3S Microphones

2016-02-11 Thread grif80128
As a new owner of a K3S, I'm wondering what the mix of microphones being used 
is. What mikes provide the best audio? 

Jiim, KC0TRK 

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Re: [Elecraft] how much to stretch copper wire

2016-02-11 Thread Jim Brown

On Thu,2/11/2016 4:48 PM, Bill wrote:
If there is any stretch, I have not seen it 


You don't see it unless there's significant tension on it. My 80/40 fan 
dipoles are up 140 ft and are fed with RG11. The tensioning weight is 
about 95#. I must trim it every 2-3 years.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Microphones

2016-02-11 Thread Clay Autery
I can't say for SURE how my mic is going to work with a K3s, but it
works awesome with a fully updated K3.

Mine is a custom true condenser mic, suspended from a shock-mount on a
Heil PL2T boom, using a Canare XLR to feed the audio signal to a Mackie
ONYX Black Jack, 2-channel preamp, used for -48vdc phantom power and
impedance boost.
There is a pop filter fitted in front of the mic.  The boom can be swung
clear when not in use.  The mic/pre is powered by the USB connection to
my shack/studio computer.  (The outgoing audio can be recorded realtime
whether for recording voice-over OR outgoing traffic via the transceiver.

The Mackie is connects to the transceiver via the rear mic in jack and a
TRS cable.

The Mic:
1) Beginning with the body and frame of a donor MXL-990 condenser mic.
2) Custom large diameter capsule chosen specifically for the build.
3) Custom PCB, stuffed and soldered using 4% silver solder, and
electrically tested, thence all high impedance connections triple washed
and coated with special conformal coating to prevent corrosion.
4) Custom capsule pedestal designed to electrically and physically
isolate capsule from the rest of the mic.
5) Replaced head-basket with one designed to break up audio standing waves.
6) PCB has pattern switch allowing omni for recording  or cardoid for
radio work.
7) Body and frame are filled with vibration damping material.
8) Frequency response was adjusted via component changes to provide a
low-cut to reduce power waste and reduce band-width on SSB.  Frequency
response was adjusted further on the high end to smooth and roll off the
highs.
9) Mic body, and shock mount custom powder coated to match the black in
the boom and almost a match for the Elecraft chassis.

Audio/electrical testing reveals a near perfect neutral sound, and an
almost pure voltage signal and low current to reduce load on the K3s
audio input circuitry.
Sound is absolutely amazing...  better than some $2K+ condenser mics
I've used.

All for less than the cost of some of Heil's dynamic mics.

I built this double duty to perform both jobs with minimal space
consumption.  I have very little space to work with for my "shack".

A lot of detail work, but the results are nothing short of phenomenal. 
I was told a condenser could not be used for a HAM mic.  That was a
mistaken assumption.

If you are interested in getting into a mic project like this, email me
offline and I'll turn you on to the company that provided me the PCB kit
and the capsule, and assisted me in tailoring it for dual use.

Y'all have a good night!

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 2/11/2016 11:20 PM, grif80...@comcast.net wrote:
> As a new owner of a K3S, I'm wondering what the mix of microphones being used 
> is. What mikes provide the best audio? 
>
> Jiim, KC0TRK 
>
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[Elecraft] RTTY Hang time

2016-02-11 Thread Bill via Elecraft
I'm sure this has been brought up before but I've been told that there's a
hang time issue when I'm done transmitting RTTY.  Some folks use a keyer and
type IM.  There's got to be a way to go to the config Macro to include this
so I don't have to do it manually.  Can someone walk me through the process
of doing this once and for all?

Thanks,

Bill

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Microphones

2016-02-11 Thread Bill Frantz
Most microphones can be made to sound good using the graphic 
equalizer in the firmware. Many people like the Yamaha CM500 
headset. The general advise is to try what you have.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 2/12/16 at 9:20 PM, grif80...@comcast.net wrote:

As a new owner of a K3S, I'm wondering what the mix of 
microphones being used is. What mikes provide the best audio?


-
Bill Frantz| Re: Hardware Management Modes: | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | If there's a mode, there's a   | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | failure mode. - Jerry Leichter | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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[Elecraft] DIY Hard-drawn copper wire

2016-02-11 Thread Dauer, Edward
In a recent post Jim, K9YC, suggested making hard-drawn copper wire for 
antennas by attaching a few hundred feet of bare copper wire to a tree or 
telephone pole at one end and to a bumper hitch at the other, then driving away 
very slowly until it snaps.  That sounded like a very attractive idea - much in 
the ham tradition.  I wondered, though, whether it could be done using a car 
without a bumper hitch.  The minimum breaking strength of number 8 hard-drawn 
copper wire (though it might be closer to number 10 after being stretched) is 
between 644 and 826 pounds, according to a chart I found on the Internet.  
Rather than test it empirically with my 16-year-old SUV (no bumper hitch), I 
wondered what 700 or 800 pounds of shear force would do to an automobile frame, 
assuming attachment to a suitable bolt somewhere.  Or would the tree fall over 
first?

Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] DIY Hard-drawn copper wire

2016-02-11 Thread Dave Cole
But the real question is:  

If the tree falls over, and no one hears it, did it really fall over,
and did the wire snap?

Sorry, I could not resist...
-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave

For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

For MixW support see:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info

For SSTV help see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info



On Thu, 2016-02-11 at 14:34 +, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> In a recent post Jim, K9YC, suggested making hard-drawn copper wire
> for antennas by attaching a few hundred feet of bare copper wire to a
> tree or telephone pole at one end and to a bumper hitch at the other,
> then driving away very slowly until it snaps.  That sounded like a
> very attractive idea - much in the ham tradition.  I wondered,
> though, whether it could be done using a car without a bumper
> hitch.  The minimum breaking strength of number 8 hard-drawn copper
> wire (though it might be closer to number 10 after being stretched)
> is between 644 and 826 pounds, according to a chart I found on the
> Internet.  Rather than test it empirically with my 16-year-old SUV
> (no bumper hitch), I wondered what 700 or 800 pounds of shear force
> would do to an automobile frame, assuming attachment to a suitable
> bolt somewhere.  Or would the tree fall over first?
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] DIY Hard-drawn copper wire

2016-02-11 Thread Henry Pollock - K4TMC
Also...just in case...make sure the wire is longer than the height of the
tree...

73,
Henry - K4TMC


On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 9:57 AM, Dave Cole  wrote:

> But the real question is:
>
> If the tree falls over, and no one hears it, did it really fall over,
> and did the wire snap?
>
> Sorry, I could not resist...
> --
> 73's, and thanks,
> Dave
>
> For software/hardware reviews see:
> http://www.nk7z.net
>
> For MixW support see:
> https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
>
> For SSTV help see:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info
>
>
>
> On Thu, 2016-02-11 at 14:34 +, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> > In a recent post Jim, K9YC, suggested making hard-drawn copper wire
> > for antennas by attaching a few hundred feet of bare copper wire to a
> > tree or telephone pole at one end and to a bumper hitch at the other,
> > then driving away very slowly until it snaps.  That sounded like a
> > very attractive idea - much in the ham tradition.  I wondered,
> > though, whether it could be done using a car without a bumper
> > hitch.  The minimum breaking strength of number 8 hard-drawn copper
> > wire (though it might be closer to number 10 after being stretched)
> > is between 644 and 826 pounds, according to a chart I found on the
> > Internet.  Rather than test it empirically with my 16-year-old SUV
> > (no bumper hitch), I wondered what 700 or 800 pounds of shear force
> > would do to an automobile frame, assuming attachment to a suitable
> > bolt somewhere.  Or would the tree fall over first?
> >
> > Ted, KN1CBR
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

2016-02-11 Thread Bill Frantz
Just a thought: Are all the screws on the K3 case tight? there 
are a lot of them, and good contact between the case pieces is 
needed for shielding.


Also, I remember being told to remove some insulator tape during 
assembly. Was this properly done?


Grasping at straws - 73 Bill AE6JV

-
Bill Frantz| When it comes to the world | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | around us, is there any choice | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | but to explore? - Lisa Randall | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

2016-02-11 Thread Jon Zaimes
Yes, that is the case. Hearing it on both of my K3 transceivers with only
the 12v power cable connected, nothing else (listening on speaker).

Thanks to all for the tips. Still absorbing the advice before proceeding.

73/Jon AA1K
Felton, Delaware
www.aa1k.us

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Alan
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 12:04 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

On 02/10/2016 03:57 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> Yes, this hit me between the eyes as well. The K3 has Pin One Problems 
> at many (most?) connectors, so RF current flowing on shields of cables 
> plugged into those connectors will couple into the K3. I've been 
> preaching to Wayne about Pin One Problems since 2004, when we met in 
> Dayton.
>
> If the problem is around 90 MHz, I'd use multiple one-turn and two 
> turn chokes with #43 material on every cable except the SO239 output, 
> which IS actually bonded to the chassis. Also choke the power cable.

But it sounds like he was still getting the problem with no cables connected
to the K3:

On 02/10/2016 06:58 AM, Jon Zaimes wrote:
...
 > Even when ALL cables are removed (only the power lead connected).
 > Grounding or ungrounding made no change. I tried the radios on a  >
battery but still had the RFI. Tried some ferrites on the power  > lead but
no change.

I suppose it could be a "pin 1" problem on the power leads.  It's kind of
hard to avoid that with an Anderson PowerPole connector.  Probably
additional low-pass filtering on the DC input would help.

Alan N1AL

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Re: [Elecraft] DIY Hard-drawn copper wire

2016-02-11 Thread Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO
I have actually done this -- but I didn't drive until it broke. I just 
gave it a little stretch. And it wasn't no. 8 wire!

Worked a treat, as our UK cousins say.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 11 Feb 2016 16:34, Dauer, Edward wrote:

In a recent post Jim, K9YC, suggested making hard-drawn copper wire
for antennas by attaching a few hundred feet of bare copper wire to a
tree or telephone pole at one end and to a bumper hitch at the other,
then driving away very slowly until it snaps.  That sounded like a
very attractive idea - much in the ham tradition.  I wondered,
though, whether it could be done using a car without a bumper hitch.
The minimum breaking strength of number 8 hard-drawn copper wire
(though it might be closer to number 10 after being stretched) is
between 644 and 826 pounds, according to a chart I found on the
Internet.  Rather than test it empirically with my 16-year-old SUV
(no bumper hitch), I wondered what 700 or 800 pounds of shear force
would do to an automobile frame, assuming attachment to a suitable
bolt somewhere.  Or would the tree fall over first?

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

2016-02-11 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
One other item, if available, try another brand/model radio using the 
same power supply, location, antenna and such.   If it is present on 
that radio, most likely it is radiated.  If it is not present, then most 
likely it is generated in the K3.  {To which that is an entirely 
different can of worms.}


73
Bob, K4TAX



On 2/11/2016 12:55 PM, Jon Zaimes wrote:

Yes, that is the case. Hearing it on both of my K3 transceivers with only
the 12v power cable connected, nothing else (listening on speaker).

Thanks to all for the tips. Still absorbing the advice before proceeding.

73/Jon AA1K
Felton, Delaware
www.aa1k.us

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Alan
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 12:04 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

On 02/10/2016 03:57 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

Yes, this hit me between the eyes as well. The K3 has Pin One Problems
at many (most?) connectors, so RF current flowing on shields of cables
plugged into those connectors will couple into the K3. I've been
preaching to Wayne about Pin One Problems since 2004, when we met in
Dayton.

If the problem is around 90 MHz, I'd use multiple one-turn and two
turn chokes with #43 material on every cable except the SO239 output,
which IS actually bonded to the chassis. Also choke the power cable.

But it sounds like he was still getting the problem with no cables connected
to the K3:

On 02/10/2016 06:58 AM, Jon Zaimes wrote:
...
  > Even when ALL cables are removed (only the power lead connected).
  > Grounding or ungrounding made no change. I tried the radios on a  >
battery but still had the RFI. Tried some ferrites on the power  > lead but
no change.

I suppose it could be a "pin 1" problem on the power leads.  It's kind of
hard to avoid that with an Anderson PowerPole connector.  Probably
additional low-pass filtering on the DC input would help.

Alan N1AL

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Broadcast interference on 160M

2016-02-11 Thread Bill Frantz
To follow up on an old message. I took the antenna down and 
inspected it. The connection between the feed line and the 
copper-clad steel antenna wires used galvanized hardware. This 
hardware was quite corroded. A private email had suggested this 
possibility. The corrosion was probably acting as a diode and 
generating harmonics from the AM signal. I replaced the hardware 
with brass. We'll see how long it lasts.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 12/1/15 at 2:51 PM, fra...@pwpconsult.com (Bill Frantz) wrote:

I switched to 160 meters with the band switch and the P3 showed 
the band filled with what looked like AM signals. I tuned one 
of them at 1.810 MHz and listened. The station identified as 
KGO, about 20 miles away with three beautiful towers at the 
edge of San Francisco bay. (Serious antenna envy here.)


---
Bill Frantz| Security is like Government  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | services. The market doesn't | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | want to pay for them.| Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

2016-02-11 Thread Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO
I doubt that it is being picked up directly on the boards of the K3. I 
would try ferrite on the power leads as well as a line filter on the AC 
line to the power supply. Have you tried listening with battery power?


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 11 Feb 2016 20:55, Jon Zaimes wrote:

Yes, that is the case. Hearing it on both of my K3 transceivers with only
the 12v power cable connected, nothing else (listening on speaker).

Thanks to all for the tips. Still absorbing the advice before proceeding.

73/Jon AA1K
Felton, Delaware
www.aa1k.us

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Alan
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 12:04 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

On 02/10/2016 03:57 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

Yes, this hit me between the eyes as well. The K3 has Pin One Problems
at many (most?) connectors, so RF current flowing on shields of cables
plugged into those connectors will couple into the K3. I've been
preaching to Wayne about Pin One Problems since 2004, when we met in
Dayton.

If the problem is around 90 MHz, I'd use multiple one-turn and two
turn chokes with #43 material on every cable except the SO239 output,
which IS actually bonded to the chassis. Also choke the power cable.


But it sounds like he was still getting the problem with no cables connected
to the K3:

On 02/10/2016 06:58 AM, Jon Zaimes wrote:
...
  > Even when ALL cables are removed (only the power lead connected).
  > Grounding or ungrounding made no change. I tried the radios on a  >
battery but still had the RFI. Tried some ferrites on the power  > lead but
no change.

I suppose it could be a "pin 1" problem on the power leads.  It's kind of
hard to avoid that with an Anderson PowerPole connector.  Probably
additional low-pass filtering on the DC input would help.

Alan N1AL

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Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

2016-02-11 Thread James Bennett
And if a second receiver is not available, perhaps hook the K3 up to a battery 
and transport it to another location, as far away as possible from your QTH.

Jim Bennett / W6JHB
Folsom, CA

> On Feb 11, 2016, at 11:44 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> One other item, if available, try another brand/model radio using the same 
> power supply, location, antenna and such.   If it is present on that radio, 
> most likely it is radiated.  If it is not present, then most likely it is 
> generated in the K3.  {To which that is an entirely different can of worms.}
> 
> 73
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> 
>> On 2/11/2016 12:55 PM, Jon Zaimes wrote:
>> Yes, that is the case. Hearing it on both of my K3 transceivers with only
>> the 12v power cable connected, nothing else (listening on speaker).
>> 
>> Thanks to all for the tips. Still absorbing the advice before proceeding.
>> 
>> 73/Jon AA1K
>> Felton, Delaware
>> www.aa1k.us
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Alan
>> Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 12:04 PM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station
>> 
>>> On 02/10/2016 03:57 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
>>> Yes, this hit me between the eyes as well. The K3 has Pin One Problems
>>> at many (most?) connectors, so RF current flowing on shields of cables
>>> plugged into those connectors will couple into the K3. I've been
>>> preaching to Wayne about Pin One Problems since 2004, when we met in
>>> Dayton.
>>> 
>>> If the problem is around 90 MHz, I'd use multiple one-turn and two
>>> turn chokes with #43 material on every cable except the SO239 output,
>>> which IS actually bonded to the chassis. Also choke the power cable.
>> But it sounds like he was still getting the problem with no cables connected
>> to the K3:
>> 
>> On 02/10/2016 06:58 AM, Jon Zaimes wrote:
>> ...
>>  > Even when ALL cables are removed (only the power lead connected).
>>  > Grounding or ungrounding made no change. I tried the radios on a  >
>> battery but still had the RFI. Tried some ferrites on the power  > lead but
>> no change.
>> 
>> I suppose it could be a "pin 1" problem on the power leads.  It's kind of
>> hard to avoid that with an Anderson PowerPole connector.  Probably
>> additional low-pass filtering on the DC input would help.
>> 
>> Alan N1AL
>> 
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> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

2016-02-11 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
Very interesting.   I would not expect the integral shielding of the K3 
radio to be that poor.  Most of the box is metal and most connectors are 
mounted on the metal box.   For an AM BC station, I would not think 
anything related to the carrier frequency, harmonics or parasitic , to 
have anything near 14 MHz existing.  So, it seems there are issues 
internal to the radio which contribute to the spurious reception.


The worst thing causing spurious is near field dis-similar metals, in 
effect diodes, excited by the RF.  I've found in more than one case, the 
metal fence around the BC tower and guy anchor points to be a 
contributor.  Better defined as poor site maintenance.  In another case, 
poor lighting conduit bond to the BC tower and also metal gutters and 
downspouts around any build in the near field causing the same effect.  
These will radiate like crazy at the resonant point.  For example, a 8 
ft downspout attached to a 33 ft metal gutter makes a nice 20M inverted 
L.  That 1100 watt station wouldn't just happen to be on 890 kHz or 
close by would it?


If one is experiencing activation of the front end protector, then a 
coax stub at the offending frequency should be of great assistance. The 
only issue is the length of coax required to make the stub. {about 125 
ft or so depending on BC frequency and velocity factor of the coax}  As 
to insertion of filters, unless attention is paid to negate the common 
mode current, i.e current induced on the feed line from the BC station, 
then the current simply flows around the outside of the expensive 
filters and they are not effective.


The problem is solvable, identifying it is the challenge.  That will 
take some detective work.




73
Bob, K4TAX



On 2/11/2016 11:33 AM, Chris Hallinan wrote:

I have a similar problem.  I have a 1KW AM station about 1/2 mile away
(1100W by day, 110W by night).  With nothing connected to the radio, and
even with a 50-ohm terminator on RX Ant in, I can clearly hear the signal
at several places, most prominently at 14.220 MHz. Nothing I've tried,
including expensive filters, shielded cables, etc. has helped.  I get some
relief using a RX Loop antenna basically nulled (broadside) to the tower,
but that antenna is not always the best one for band and/or conditions. :(
  Some frequencies are simply unusable, and it overloads a front end
protector I purchased to try to kill the COR relay clicking when I
transmit, making it unusable.

Chris
K1AY

On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 5:53 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:


I easily could have misread the original emailed problem, but he included
the note that this RFI occurred with all antennas [and I guess other
cables] disconnected which is very strange indeed.  If that is so, then I
doubt stubs/filters on the antenna circuits would cure the problem.

His list of frequencies might suggest some sort of intermod between
constant signals, one being the FM carrier, and possibly their harmonics.
Very strange problem at any rate.  FWIW, and Phil can correct me, but US
FM/TV stations are usually authorized in EIRP, I think ... we referred to
KSBY-TV, where I worked while in college, as "Full-power television for the
Central coast, one hundred thousand watts on Channel 6 in San Luis Obispo"
on ID's.  That was EIRP, 10 KW to a 10 dB turnstile.  If that's still true,
it would seem a 2 KW EIRP FM station 2 miles away shouldn't be a big deal.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org


On 2/10/2016 2:04 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:


I agree. Even better.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
McGraw K4TAX
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 9:18 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

An electrical 1/4 wavelength of coax as an open stub at the FM frequency,
connected using a T at the receiver input, will notch the FM TX signal.
It
won't attenuate other frequencies across the ham bands including 6M.  Plus
one can transmit with the stub arrangement in place.

73
Bob, K4TAX


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[Elecraft] K3/100 For Sale

2016-02-11 Thread Tommy Berggren
FOR SALE:  K3/100 Serial Number 8236, Factory assembled/installed,  from
non-smoking home with no pets.

100 watt transceiver,  internal automatic antenna tuner with 2nd antenna
jack,  RX antenna  IF Out and Xverter  interface, high performance
subreceiver,  high stability reference oscillator, general coverage RX
module.  Main and subreceiver filters:  2.7 kHz 5-pole;  1.8 kHz 8-pole
roofing filter;  200 Hz 5 pole; 500 Hz 5-pole;  40 Hz matching of 5-pole
filter pairs.  DC power cord, universal serial bus adapter and Owner’s
Manual.

Paid $4,484.70 plus shipping in April 2014.Would like $3,750 with
ground shipment and insurance to lower 48 included.  Cash, cashier’s check,
USPS MO.   Paypal OK but buyer add 3% to cover fee.

Thanks for reading.  73 to all de Tommy  WE7K
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Re: [Elecraft] DIY Hard-drawn copper wire

2016-02-11 Thread Bill Frantz
Trees are quite strong. When we do demonstrations by breaking 
equipment during cave rescue classes, we use trees as anchors 
and a truck with an electric winch attached to one tree. Some of 
these things break at several thousand pounds force. (We measure 
the force with a load cell.)


The basics for tree anchors:

(1) Make sure the tree is alive and healthy.
(2) Wrap the tree with a tarp or heavy cloth to protect its bark 
from damage.
(3) Then wrap it with 2" nylon webbing at least 3 times. Use a 
water knot to join the webbing. Leave the knot facing the load 
and pull the rest of the loops out to a carabiner or quick link 
rated for the expected load. This arrangement gives you a chance 
of being able to untie the know when you are finished. (2" 
tubular webbing is rated at 4000#. If you pull two loops, that 
is 4 strands and 16000#. Derate by 50% for knots, bends around 
carabiners etc and get 8000#.)
(4) If you are breaking things, such as #8 copper wire, cover 
them with blankets to minimize the danger of having them snap 
through the air.
(5) Keep everyone far enough away so flying wire won't hit them, 
or keep them in a closed vehicle.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 2/11/16 at 6:34 AM, eda...@law.du.edu (Dauer, Edward) wrote:

I wondered what 700 or 800 pounds of shear force would do to an 
automobile frame, assuming attachment to a suitable bolt 
somewhere.  Or would the tree fall over first?

---
Bill Frantz| Security is like Government  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | services. The market doesn't | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | want to pay for them.| Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] 14. OT: Good NAQCC YouTube video (Paul and Sue Huff)

2016-02-11 Thread Hans J Rasmusen OZ7BQ
Hi,Nice video but your choice of colour for Greenland (OX-Land) is puzzling me.
73OZ7BQ, Hans Jørgen
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: roofing filter configuration settings

2016-02-11 Thread Ed Muns
"Configuration bandwidth" is the DSP bandwidth at which the given crystal
filter engages in the K3/K3S.  This crystal filter remains engaged as the
DSP bandwidth is narrowed, to the point where another crystal filter's
"configuration bandwidth" is reached.

In choosing the configuration bandwidth, one consideration is the cascade
effect of the crystal and DSP filter bandwidths.  In general, the cascade
bandwidth will be less than either of these two filter bandwidths.  The
extent to which this is true depends on how close the two filter bandwidths
are to one another.

This reduced cascade bandwidth is the underlying reason for the KFL3A-250
crystal filter from INRAD being called "250 Hz" but actually measuring about
370 Hz at -6 dB and about 310 Hz at -3 dB.  (See
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/K3_filter_plots.htm.)  This filter was originally
designed for the Yaesu first IF and intended to be used in conjunction with
another "250 Hz" filter in the second IF.  Each filter is actually wider
than its marketing name because when the two are cascaded, the resulting
bandwidth is about 250 Hz.

The cascade effect of the K3 crystal and DSP IF filters is less than the
Yaesu and Kenwood cases where both filters were crystal filters, each with a
somewhat "round" shape.  The K3 DSP filter is more "square" in the
transition between passband and stopband.

Since the K3 DSP bandwidth is continuously variable, it becomes more
important to consider this cascade effect because it may or may not be
significant depending on how close the crystal and DSP filter bandwidths are
to one another.  It is also more important with the K3 to be aware of the
actual crystal filter bandwidths.

For RTTY operation, the minimum cascaded bandwidth should be about 400 Hz.
This is because modern software decoders, e.g., MMTTY and 2Tone, use
algorithms that make use of the sidebands of each tone in order to minimize
error rate.  Using narrower IF filters, including the DTF, in the radio
attenuates these useful sidebands.

For the same reason, the K3 (and, Icom) dual-tone filter removes sideband
information that could be used by the decoder to improve copy.  Anecdotally,
in pileup and QRM situations such as DXpeditions and contests, I've found a
cascaded IF bandwidth of 400-500 Hz to be superior to the narrower
bandwidths, including the DTF, that I used several years ago.

Accordingly, I've chosen the INRAD 500 Hz 8-pole filter for CW and RTTY,
setting my DSP bandwidth to 400-500 Hz as desired.  I think this gives
marginally better, and more versatile, filtering than the KFL3A-250.

For very heavy QRM CW situations, e.g., 160 meter contests, the 5-pole 200
Hz crystal filter is useful.

Ed W0YK

___

Dick K9OM wrote:

A question regarding roofing filter "configuration bandwidth"  settings on
the K3:
 
The factory default roofing filter "configuration bandwidth" setting  is to
set the 250hz filter at a setting of "250".  Therefore, the  250hz roofing
filter will engage at the same time as the 250hz DSP filter. 
However, since the 250hz roofing filter has an actual BW6 of 370hz,  aren't
there times when it would be more beneficial to have  the "configuration
bandwidth" of the 250hz roofing filter set to 350 or  400?  
I'm thinking this may be especially true when operating RTTY since the
average RTTY bandwidth is aprx. 370hz.  Perhaps there are times when  this
would be beneficial when operating other modes as well?
 
Likewise, the 400hz roofer has a BW6 of 450hz, so perhaps for certain modes
a "configuration bandwidth" setting of 450 rather than 400 could be
beneficial as well?
 
If anyone is wondering where I'm getting the term "configuration bandwidth" 
 from, it's a configuration heading on the K3 Utility programs filter
configuration page.

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[Elecraft] K1 test signal generator oscillator

2016-02-11 Thread zabarnick .
I recently built the small test oscillator circuit shown in the K1 manual.
Using a 5 MHz crystal, my circuit built on a breadboard oscillates on the
third overtone at 15 MHz, rather than the fundamental. Any suggestions as
to why and how to modify the circuit to oscillate on the crystal's
fundamental frequency?

Steve N9SZ
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[Elecraft] OT - FCC Spectrum Auction/Commercial Television

2016-02-11 Thread David Ahrendts
Very good summary here of the huge technical shift that US commercial 
television will undergo in the next few years with the FCC spectrum auction 
that will force most UHF licensees to move in or close to VHF spectrum space 
allowing telecom to create new services in the old UHF space:   
http://www.tvnewscheck.com/article/92011/transmitters-may-be-repacks-silver-lining/page/1
 


David A., KK6DA, Los Angeles



David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com   




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Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

2016-02-11 Thread Jim Brown

On Thu,2/11/2016 10:55 AM, Jon Zaimes wrote:

Yes, that is the case. Hearing it on both of my K3 transceivers with only
the 12v power cable connected, nothing else (listening on speaker).


I'm assuming this means nothing at all plugged into the back of the rig 
-- no control, no audio, nothing to the BNCs, nothing to the Aux power 
jack.


By all means choke the 12V DC cable. Since the RFI is VHF, this IS an 
application for a "string of beads" choke. #43 clamp-ons would be the 
weapon of choice, either single turn or two turns. #31 would also work. 
What you want is a clamp-on with two turns through it, a short length of 
the power cable, then another clamp-on with two turns, a short length of 
cable, then another clamp-on with two turns, and so on. Select the size 
of the clamp-on to fit the number of turns. Turns should be widely 
spaced. Do NOT run two turns through a string of clamp-ons -- that will 
take the resonance too low in frequency to work at 90 MHz.


You can see data for the choking Z of individual Fair-Rite parts with 
one, two, and three turns on the data sheets for those parts. Click on 
the part number in the table of parts to get that data sheet, then 
scroll all the way down for the impedance plots. You may need to click 
on that to get the three turn plots.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] how much to stretch copper wire

2016-02-11 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Or, you could simply use copperweld and forget
about stretching.
RF Connection sells a fairly flexible stranded and
insulated (black poly-ethelyne) wire that, if I
remember correctly is 13 gauge.

I built a four band dipole * a few years ago using
those aluminum swaged wire clamps.  It's still up
and to my knowledge, has not stretched or
de-tuned.

73, Charlie k3ICH

* Two wires from each center balun connector.  The
upper wires have 75 M traps for 75/160M and the
lower wires have 40 M traps for 40/60 M bands.



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Hoge
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 5:58 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] how much to stretch copper
wire

I drew the wire for my first antenna about 40
years ago. That was for a quad utilizing solid
copper. Since then,I have made numerous dipoles,
all using stranded THHN or THWN 12g wire. My
method has always been to anchor one end to a tree
or a bumper hitch and hold the free end with a
pair of Vise grip pliers. The advantage of the
armstrong method is you can feel the draw and
sense when it nears its limit. The force require
to continue drawing the wire escalates and then
failure occurs. In practice, I lay out a tape
measure on the ground beneath the wire to be
drawn. Once I have my rough length of wire, I will
draw it about 10% more in length. (Example:
1/4wave for 7.010 mHz is 33.3' so I will draw to
about 36.7'.)This has been enough to prevent
additional stretching once the antenna is up in
the air. The thermoplastic insulation degrades
well before the wire fails and my oldest antenna
up at the moment is my 40m dipole, it's about 12
years old.
73,Jim W5QM


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Re: [Elecraft] how much to stretch copper wire

2016-02-11 Thread Bill
Short runs - that being under 65 feet - I make with stranded #12 using a 
PE UV-safe insulation. I used to use all kinds of the flavor of the week 
of proper antenna wire. I have never had a 75 meter dipole using any 
kind of #12 wire break from a weather induced load (ice/snow). I do not 
use anything less than #12 on antennas.


If there is any stretch, I have not seen it - but, I also have an 
antenna tuner. So, I might have never noticed.


My current primary NVIS for 75 has been in the air for nearly 20 years. 
This summer it will be replaced with all new everything.


Bill W2BLC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - KIO3B setup

2016-02-11 Thread N2TK, Tony
Hi Don,
When I moved the USB cable to the front of the PC I get the following in
Device Manager.
two USB ports added - "Generic USB Hub" and "USB Composit Device"
A new category - "Other devices" with a question mark. Under that it shows
"FT232R USB UART" with a question mark.

Do not see anything added referencing a COM port under "Ports (COM & LPT)" 

Running Win 7 Pro on a HP Z220 workstation.
I also have a USB to 8-port RS232 hub.

N2TK, Tony

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 5:32 PM
To: N2TK, Tony ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - KIO3B setup

Tony,

The USB "adapter" in the K3 must be defined as a USB COM port by your
computer.  It should be no different than adding a USB to serial adapter
(because that is what is inside the KIO3B).  I suspect that "USB Composite
Device" is what you might be looking for - is there a COM Port number
associated with it?

That kind of stuff is computer dependent.  If you did not obtain anything
reasonable, unplug the USB cable from the computer and try another USB port.
Wait until the computer indicates that the device is ready to use.  I know
that works on Windows 7 and Windows 10 (should work in Win8).
If you are using XP, that may get a bit 'dicey' and you may have to
explicitly load the FTDI driver.

Once you know the COM port that the computer has assigned, just tell
LP-Bridge to use that COM port.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/11/2016 4:39 PM, N2TK, Tony wrote:
> I tried installing the USB cable from the K3 to the PC. The only thing 
> that happens is that in Device Manager >Universal Serial Bus 
> Controllers it show two USB ports added - Generic USB Hub and USB 
> Composite Device. What do I do next?
> How do I get this tied into LP-Bridge as before as there is nothing 
> showing on LP-Bridge how to handle USB connections?
>
>


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[Elecraft] data modes (USB/LSB or DATA) using KIO3B sound card interface

2016-02-11 Thread John Shadle
I looked in the K3S manual, and the instructions on setting up data modes
(p. 33) fail to mention the use of the KIO3B internal sound card. Are there
instructions (erratum?) available on how to set up data modes (using DATA
or USB/LSB) with this new feature?

Probably a simple answer to this question -- I'm just having trouble
finding it.

Thanks!
-john NE4U
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[Elecraft] how much to stretch copper wire

2016-02-11 Thread Jim Hoge
I drew the wire for my first antenna about 40 years ago. That was for a quad 
utilizing solid copper. Since then,I have made numerous dipoles, all using 
stranded THHN or THWN 12g wire. My method has always been to anchor one end to 
a tree or a bumper hitch and hold the free end with a pair of Vise grip pliers. 
The advantage of the armstrong method is you can feel the draw and sense when 
it nears its limit. The force require to continue drawing the wire escalates 
and then failure occurs. In practice, I lay out a tape measure on the ground 
beneath the wire to be drawn. Once I have my rough length of wire, I will draw 
it about 10% more in length. (Example: 1/4wave for 7.010 mHz is 33.3' so I will 
draw to about 36.7'.)This has been enough to prevent additional stretching once 
the antenna is up in the air. The thermoplastic insulation degrades well before 
the wire fails and my oldest antenna up at the moment is my 40m dipole, it's 
about 12 years old.
73,Jim W5QM

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[Elecraft] OT FS -K3 #5027 with many options SOLD PENDING FUNDS

2016-02-11 Thread Jim Sheldon

Hit send too quick on the last.

The K3 has been sold pending funds.  Thanks to all who called or 
emailed.


Jim - W0EB





Memo to NSA, DHS, FBI, CIA, DIA, DEA, ATF, KGB, MI5, and any other 
alphabet soup agencies that might be listening/reading/tracking my email 
content,  I share this computer with an old lady, an ex-con, a priest, a 
used car salesman, a military veteran, a pacifist, a vegetarian, a 
hunter, a circus midget, a local politician, a doberman and a demented 
cat...so any data you collect from me will be meaningless, random and 
therefore useless...good luck.



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[Elecraft] OT FS -K3 #5027 with many options

2016-02-11 Thread Jim Sheldon
My wife bought me a new K3S for my upcoming birthday so my original K3 
is up for sale.


Factory built Elecraft K3/100, serial# 5027 with the following options 
(some installed by me):

KAT3 internal antenna tuner/2nd antenna input.
2.7KHz 5 pole and 400Hz 8 pole filters installed in Main Receiver
KBPF3 (modified by KBPF3A by me) installed in Main Receiver only.
KRX3 Sub Receiver with 2.7KHz 5 pole and 400Hz 8 pole filters installed.
KTCX03 1ppm TCXO.
K3EXREF  Ext. Frequency Reference Input (installed by me).
2 K3SYNA new synthesizers (installed by me).
KXV3B (new transverter interface with RX BNC jacks and on-board 2nd 
preamp for 12-10-6 meters -
installed by me and replacing the original KXV3A that was ordered with 
the radio).

MH2 hand microphone.
Power cable with Anderson Power Poles, #10 wire and ring terminals
3 foot DE9 RS232 cable for programming/computer control.
Latest firmware has been installed and tested.
Fred Cady book, "The Elecraft K3, Design, Configuration and Operation" 
2nd Edition, plus all pertinent
Elecraft manuals that came with the radio. (If I miss one, they can 
easily be downloaded from Elecraft.)


Non smoking, relatively dust free environment -  some minor scratches 
from use and showing for Elecraft at hamfests.


This does NOT have the extra current modification done to the auxiliary 
12 volt output to handle the P3SVGA.



Asking $2000.00 which includes shipping and full insurance to anywhere 
in the lower 48 US states only.
If you have a Non-US address please don't even ask as international 
postage is prohibitive and I'd prefer

not to deal with the customs hassles.

Please contact me off list if interested.  First "I'll take it" gets 
right of first refusal determined by

date/time received.

Payment by Certified Check or USPS Money Order only.  No PayPal unless 
you are willing to pay their charges.


Jim Sheldon - W0EB
Park City, KS 62179

Tel:  316-744-3022 9-5 Central time only please

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - KIO3B setup

2016-02-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tony,

The USB "adapter" in the K3 must be defined as a USB COM port by your 
computer.  It should be no different than adding a USB to serial adapter 
(because that is what is inside the KIO3B).  I suspect that "USB 
Composite Device" is what you might be looking for - is there a COM Port 
number associated with it?


That kind of stuff is computer dependent.  If you did not obtain 
anything reasonable, unplug the USB cable from the computer and try 
another USB port.  Wait until the computer indicates that the device is 
ready to use.  I know that works on Windows 7 and Windows 10 (should 
work in Win8).
If you are using XP, that may get a bit 'dicey' and you may have to 
explicitly load the FTDI driver.


Once you know the COM port that the computer has assigned, just tell 
LP-Bridge to use that COM port.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/11/2016 4:39 PM, N2TK, Tony wrote:

I tried installing the USB cable from the K3 to the PC. The only thing that
happens is that in Device Manager >Universal Serial Bus Controllers it show
two USB ports added - Generic USB Hub and USB Composite Device. What do I do
next?
How do I get this tied into LP-Bridge as before as there is nothing showing
on LP-Bridge how to handle USB connections?




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Re: [Elecraft] DIY Hard-drawn copper wire

2016-02-11 Thread Rick WA6NHC
Even the smallest trees have substantial strength, species dependent of 
course (some have no tap root and only surface structure).  Bind LOW on 
the tree to make the pull closest to the anchor of the tree (the roots).


Vehicle frames are much stronger than a piece of typical (for antennas) 
copper wire, no worries.  Even the smallest car can handle the strain of 
a SMALL trailer (or passengers of large girth), BUT one should move 
slowly to not shock load the wire or vehicle AND (in addition to the 
excellent advice given) the safe zone is any place further away than the 
total length of the wire plus at least 20% (factor in stretching) since 
it may whip upon snapping.  While it's slightly possible that it could 
snap in multiple places and become airborne, distance is your friend.  
When in doubt, use another tree as a shield PLUS distance and safety 
equipment (hard hat, goggles etc.).


Rick nhc

On 2/11/2016 12:13 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
Trees are quite strong. When we do demonstrations by breaking 
equipment during cave rescue classes, we use trees as anchors and a 
truck with an electric winch attached to one tree. Some of these 
things break at several thousand pounds force. (We measure the force 
with a load cell.)


The basics for tree anchors:

(1) Make sure the tree is alive and healthy.
(2) Wrap the tree with a tarp or heavy cloth to protect its bark from 
damage.
(3) Then wrap it with 2" nylon webbing at least 3 times. Use a water 
knot to join the webbing. Leave the knot facing the load and pull the 
rest of the loops out to a carabiner or quick link rated for the 
expected load. This arrangement gives you a chance of being able to 
untie the know when you are finished. (2" tubular webbing is rated at 
4000#. If you pull two loops, that is 4 strands and 16000#. Derate by 
50% for knots, bends around carabiners etc and get 8000#.)
(4) If you are breaking things, such as #8 copper wire, cover them 
with blankets to minimize the danger of having them snap through the air.
(5) Keep everyone far enough away so flying wire won't hit them, or 
keep them in a closed vehicle.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 2/11/16 at 6:34 AM, eda...@law.du.edu (Dauer, Edward) wrote:

I wondered what 700 or 800 pounds of shear force would do to an 
automobile frame, assuming attachment to a suitable bolt somewhere.  
Or would the tree fall over first?

---
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(408)356-8506  | services. The market doesn't | 16345 Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | want to pay for them.| Los Gatos, CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] DIY Hard-drawn copper wire

2016-02-11 Thread Jim Brown

On Thu,2/11/2016 12:42 PM, Rick WA6NHC wrote:
BUT one should move slowly to not shock load the wire or vehicle AND 
(in addition to the excellent advice given) the safe zone is any place 
further away than the total length of the wire plus at least 20% 


When we've done this, my partner has driven the vehicle and I've been 
the observer, carefully out of range. I've never been more than about 
100 ft from the wire, and we typically start with about 200 ft. In the 
half dozen or so times I've done that, the wire has simply broken 
gracefully either near the tree trunk or near the vehicle. What nearly 
always happens is that the wire breaks at a point of maximum stretch 
along the length. That doesn't mean that it CAN'T snap around, but so 
far it has not.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - KIO3B setup

2016-02-11 Thread N2TK, Tony
I tried installing the USB cable from the K3 to the PC. The only thing that
happens is that in Device Manager >Universal Serial Bus Controllers it show
two USB ports added - Generic USB Hub and USB Composite Device. What do I do
next?
How do I get this tied into LP-Bridge as before as there is nothing showing
on LP-Bridge how to handle USB connections? 

Tnx for any input.

N2TK, Tony

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of N2TK,
Tony
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2016 4:25 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - KIO3B setup

I installed the KIO3B kit. I have it set up as the original KIO3 - K3- RS232
to P3 to PC/SteppIR. Accessory plug with FSK interface and audio in and out
cables to audio board. I use LP-Bridge. Everything is working fine as it was
before the upgrade.

Now I want to take advantage of the features of the KIO3B kit.

 

I have the CBLP3Y cable for the K3 to the P3. 

I will replace the RS232 with the USB to the PC.

I will remove the audio in and out cables. 

 

Is there anything special I need to do now that I will be using a USB port
instead of the RS232? 

What about with LP-Bridge? Anything I need to do with it? 

Where is the best place to hook up the SteppiR now that I don't have an
RS232 connecting to the PC?

 

Tnx for any feedback.

73,

N2TK, Tony

 

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[Elecraft] OT: FS K3 #5027. SOLD PENDING FUNDS

2016-02-11 Thread Jim Sheldon


Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] DIY Hard-drawn copper wire

2016-02-11 Thread Rick WA6NHC
I try to not give Murphy any chance, ever, at all.  Sometimes that 
actually works out.  ;-)  The tension that is suddenly released, has to 
dissipate SOMEwhere, the trick is to not be in the way when that 
happens.  Copper, because it is soft, uses less energy to stretch, but 
...  hanging cloths on the wire is good because it's a visual indicator 
that the wire is still intact (the cloths are not on the ground) as well 
as acting as a shock absorber should the wire fail.


Rick nhc

On 2/11/2016 12:56 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Thu,2/11/2016 12:42 PM, Rick WA6NHC wrote:
BUT one should move slowly to not shock load the wire or vehicle AND 
(in addition to the excellent advice given) the safe zone is any 
place further away than the total length of the wire plus at least 20% 


When we've done this, my partner has driven the vehicle and I've been 
the observer, carefully out of range. I've never been more than about 
100 ft from the wire, and we typically start with about 200 ft. In the 
half dozen or so times I've done that, the wire has simply broken 
gracefully either near the tree trunk or near the vehicle. What nearly 
always happens is that the wire breaks at a point of maximum stretch 
along the length. That doesn't mean that it CAN'T snap around, but so 
far it has not.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] DIY Hard-drawn copper wire

2016-02-11 Thread kev...@coho.net
From what I can find on the 'net, in my dad's metallurgy manuals, and a 
scan of my CRC the ductility of pure copper is 0.62.  A piece of copper 
wire which is thoroughly annealed will allow stretching of 62% before it 
fails at the ductile-brittle transition.  This transition point is 
temperature dependent so a warmer day is better.  Once you have 
stretched the copper you can stretch it again as long as you anneal it 
first.  I did not look up the annealing temperature of copper.


Thus, for safety's sake, stretch the line to a 50% increase or less to 
avoid having it part on you.  Copper alloys allow for less ductility so 
decrease the amount of stretching to avoid an accidental parting.

GL,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS
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Re: [Elecraft] data modes (USB/LSB or DATA) using KIO3B sound card interface

2016-02-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

That K3 internal soundcard should appear to the computer just like any 
other USB soundcard.  That can be computer dependent, so no specific 
advice can be given.


Select that soundcard in your data mode application and you should be 
"good to go" other than adjusting the soundcard levels.


Use DATA A rather than SSB because the K3 automatically turns off 
compression and sets the TX EQ flat.
Adjust the soundcard output audio level to drive the K3 ALC meter to 4 
bars solid with the 5th bar flashing, and you are ready to transmit.
Adjust the soundcard input level to suit a reasonable display on your 
application's waterfall.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/11/2016 4:34 PM, John Shadle wrote:

I looked in the K3S manual, and the instructions on setting up data modes
(p. 33) fail to mention the use of the KIO3B internal sound card. Are there
instructions (erratum?) available on how to set up data modes (using DATA
or USB/LSB) with this new feature?

Probably a simple answer to this question -- I'm just having trouble
finding it.

Thanks!
-john NE4U
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 142, Issue 11

2016-02-11 Thread John Carter
On Sunday, February 7, 2016,  wrote:

> Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> http://kzsu.stanford.edu/live/
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net 
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> elecraft-ow...@mailman.qth.net 
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..."
>


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 142, Issue 19

2016-02-11 Thread John Carter
On Thursday, February 11, 2016,  wrote:

> Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net 
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> elecraft-ow...@mailman.qth.net 
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..."
>


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 test signal generator oscillator

2016-02-11 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
Perhaps the 5 MHz rock is a third overtone cut.   My experience, I've 
never been successful in getting a third overtone cut to oscillate on 
the fundamental frequency.


73
Bob, K4TAX


On 2/11/2016 9:38 AM, zabarnick . wrote:

I recently built the small test oscillator circuit shown in the K1 manual.
Using a 5 MHz crystal, my circuit built on a breadboard oscillates on the
third overtone at 15 MHz, rather than the fundamental. Any suggestions as
to why and how to modify the circuit to oscillate on the crystal's
fundamental frequency?

Steve N9SZ
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Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

2016-02-11 Thread Alan

On 02/10/2016 03:57 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

Yes, this hit me between the eyes as well. The K3 has Pin One Problems
at many (most?) connectors, so RF current flowing on shields of cables
plugged into those connectors will couple into the K3. I've been
preaching to Wayne about Pin One Problems since 2004, when we met in
Dayton.

If the problem is around 90 MHz, I'd use multiple one-turn and two turn
chokes with #43 material on every cable except the SO239 output, which
IS actually bonded to the chassis. Also choke the power cable.


But it sounds like he was still getting the problem with no cables 
connected to the K3:


On 02/10/2016 06:58 AM, Jon Zaimes wrote:
...
> Even when ALL cables are removed (only the power lead connected).
> Grounding or ungrounding made no change. I tried the radios on a
> battery but still had the RFI. Tried some ferrites on the power
> lead but no change.

I suppose it could be a "pin 1" problem on the power leads.  It's kind 
of hard to avoid that with an Anderson PowerPole connector.  Probably 
additional low-pass filtering on the DC input would help.


Alan N1AL

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Re: [Elecraft] remove me from the list.

2016-02-11 Thread Clay Autery
The proper way to unsubscribe is as follows:

1) Go to:  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft

2) Find the section titles "Elecraft Subscribers" on that page.

3) In that section find the text field and Action button emblazoned with
"Unsubscribe or Edit Options"

4) Type the email YOU used to subscribe to this list into the text box.

5) Click the "Unsubscribe or Edit Options" button.

6) The page that pops up has a button labeled "Unsubscribe"  Click it if
you choose.

HOWEVER, if you are simply receiving too many emails, consider logging
in on this page and setting your email options to "Daily Digest" or
something.
Too much good information coming through here for me to leave now.  Even
IF it gets aggravating sometimes.  :-)

But, let us not bother Eric with trivial housekeeping tasks that rightly
are our own responsibility.

Eric's time is much better spent producing awesome products...

You all have a great day!

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV

(318) 518-1389

On 2/11/2016 3:32 AM, W0WFH Bill via Elecraft wrote:
> Eric:Please remove me from the list.Thank you.Bill Hudson, W0WFHLinn, Mo.
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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-11 Thread Kevin Stover

Totally agree.
I built a dipole one time and fed it with the 450 Ohm window line 
everybody likes to use.
I twisted the ends of the window line and crimped a couple of terminals 
on the ends. If it was going to be a permanent antenna I would have 
soldered it.


Two years later when I took it down I disconnected the window line from 
the 1:1 current balun and the terminals came off in my hand. Apparently 
when I twisted the strands before crimping the connectors I removed some 
of the copper. The steel wire underneath had rusted to dust a good six 
inches back. No more window line here, doesn't matter who sells it, and 
no more copper weld.


On 2/10/2016 5:59 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Copperweld is "nasty" stuff IMHO.  If you can support it so it will 
not flex, you can tension it greater than plain copper.  But it 
'remembers' the coils it had on the wire spool and will spring back to 
those coils if allowed to remain free and untensioned.  If you pull it 
while it has a kink in it, the game is over, that kink will become a 
spot for failure.






--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

2016-02-11 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
I can't imagine 2 KW ERP FM directly causing that issue.   In reading 
the original post, he was getting splatter on 12M which would indicate 
the antenna was connected.   Nothing mentioned about the Preamp being on 
or off.  Normally for 12M it is on, maybe PRE II is on as well.   There 
are precautions stated n the manual in this regard.   As a result of any 
reactive input termination, it could be oscillating.   If so, all bets 
are off.  Birdies abound!


Then disconnecting "all cables" and I don't take this to mean antenna 
disconnected as well, but powering from a battery still show evidence of 
the problem.  I could see with the antenna connected, corrosion on the 
antenna element(s) or feed line connectors acting as a diode  or even a 
metal gutter, downspout and etc.  and being excited by the FM carrier 
plus subcarrier/pilot making it appearance as multiple birdies modulated 
by the FM audio.  However, with "everything" disconnected except for 
power cable and the problem remain,  very strange.  The K3S is built 
better and shielded better than this.


73
Bob, K4TAX



On 2/11/2016 11:03 AM, Alan wrote:

On 02/10/2016 03:57 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

Yes, this hit me between the eyes as well. The K3 has Pin One Problems
at many (most?) connectors, so RF current flowing on shields of cables
plugged into those connectors will couple into the K3. I've been
preaching to Wayne about Pin One Problems since 2004, when we met in
Dayton.

If the problem is around 90 MHz, I'd use multiple one-turn and two turn
chokes with #43 material on every cable except the SO239 output, which
IS actually bonded to the chassis. Also choke the power cable.


But it sounds like he was still getting the problem with no cables 
connected to the K3:


On 02/10/2016 06:58 AM, Jon Zaimes wrote:
...
> Even when ALL cables are removed (only the power lead connected).
> Grounding or ungrounding made no change. I tried the radios on a
> battery but still had the RFI. Tried some ferrites on the power
> lead but no change.

I suppose it could be a "pin 1" problem on the power leads.  It's kind 
of hard to avoid that with an Anderson PowerPole connector. Probably 
additional low-pass filtering on the DC input would help.


Alan N1AL

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Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station

2016-02-11 Thread Chris Hallinan
I have a similar problem.  I have a 1KW AM station about 1/2 mile away
(1100W by day, 110W by night).  With nothing connected to the radio, and
even with a 50-ohm terminator on RX Ant in, I can clearly hear the signal
at several places, most prominently at 14.220 MHz. Nothing I've tried,
including expensive filters, shielded cables, etc. has helped.  I get some
relief using a RX Loop antenna basically nulled (broadside) to the tower,
but that antenna is not always the best one for band and/or conditions. :(
 Some frequencies are simply unusable, and it overloads a front end
protector I purchased to try to kill the COR relay clicking when I
transmit, making it unusable.

Chris
K1AY

On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 5:53 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:

> I easily could have misread the original emailed problem, but he included
> the note that this RFI occurred with all antennas [and I guess other
> cables] disconnected which is very strange indeed.  If that is so, then I
> doubt stubs/filters on the antenna circuits would cure the problem.
>
> His list of frequencies might suggest some sort of intermod between
> constant signals, one being the FM carrier, and possibly their harmonics.
> Very strange problem at any rate.  FWIW, and Phil can correct me, but US
> FM/TV stations are usually authorized in EIRP, I think ... we referred to
> KSBY-TV, where I worked while in college, as "Full-power television for the
> Central coast, one hundred thousand watts on Channel 6 in San Luis Obispo"
> on ID's.  That was EIRP, 10 KW to a 10 dB turnstile.  If that's still true,
> it would seem a 2 KW EIRP FM station 2 miles away shouldn't be a big deal.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
> - www.cqp.org
>
>
> On 2/10/2016 2:04 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
>> I agree. Even better.
>>
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
>> McGraw K4TAX
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 9:18 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 12 meter K3 RFI from nearby FM station
>>
>> An electrical 1/4 wavelength of coax as an open stub at the FM frequency,
>> connected using a T at the receiver input, will notch the FM TX signal.
>> It
>> won't attenuate other frequencies across the ham bands including 6M.  Plus
>> one can transmit with the stub arrangement in place.
>>
>> 73
>> Bob, K4TAX
>>
>
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