Re: [Elecraft] K3s noise figure spec

[Jim Brown]

On 6/30/2020 4:31 PM, Dave Sublette wrote:

Does anybody KNOW what the noise figure is for the 50MHz preamp on the
K3s?  It isn't listed in the specifications.


I don't know, but I'm using an ARR GasFET preamp at the RXIN/OUT patch 
point, and the ARR 0.5 NF seems to be slightly better than the 
K3S-series Transverter Interface. Although I own an ARR mast-mount 
version, I'm afraid to put it at the tower because the 6M antenna is 
only about 10 ft below the SteppIR that I drive legal limit. :)  The 
loss in my 325 ft of 7/8-in hard line plus coax for rotator loop and 
jumper at the shack is is a bit less than 1 dB on 6M.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Nr4c]

Watts is Volts X Amps. 
Fewer Volts means more Amps. More Amps means more work for power supply, 
leading to fewer Volts.  Fewer Volts means ...( you get the picture). 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jun 30, 2020, at 8:37 PM, Mike Kopacki  wrote:
> 
> I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I 
> crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings 
> during receive and transmit. 
> 
> Is it possible that the power supply is failing?
> 
> Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put 
> out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM 
> 
>> On Jun 30, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> Mike,
>> 
>> The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector - commonly 
>> called APP.
>> 
>> For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and 
>> connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for #12 
>> wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the connectors.  
>> The drop will be more substantial with the increased current during transmit 
>> at 100 watts.
>> 
>> Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of the 
>> ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to the 
>> banana plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for up to 
>> 30 to 50 amps.  Is there any way you can connect ring terminals onto those 
>> power supply terminals?  Like removing the outer nuts from the terminals - 
>> if so then switch to the ring terminals.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
 On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>>> 
>>> Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly.
>>> 
>>> I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black connectors 
>>> that plug into the K2.  I assume that is the “contact blade”?  I see 
>>> nothing else on the inside.
>>> 
>>> But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full well 
>>> that some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana plugs to 
>>> make the power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly instructions. 
>>> When I received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a solderless type 
>>> that I had never seen before.  I talked to three people at MFJ, none could 
>>> explain how the wire attached to the plug.  The third guy hung up on me.
>>> 
>>> So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the 
>>> configuration of the plug still eludes me.
>>> 
>>> The P/S output is 13.6V.  I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2.  If the normal drop 
>>> is .3V, it should read 13.3V at t
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Re: [Elecraft] Voltage Drop

[Wilson Lamb]

Truth be told, I don't think so.
I use almost entirely low end consumer stuff, mostly because I blow up at least 
a meter a year two, when I put the 10A scale across a storage battery,
The 750VDC scale across 2KV, or 400V to the low Ohms scale.  When it's a free 
harbor Freight meter, I don't lose any sleep!
WL


- Harlan Sherriff  wrote:
> You have trouble with Fluke DMM’s? 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> > On Jun 30, 2020, at 9:06 PM, Wilson Lamb  wrote:
> > 
> > Are we going to talk about RF getting into DMMs?
> > The DMMs I've used can't be used on tractors or under the hood of cars not 
> > even on the battery, because of ignition noise.
> > There's a lot to be said for old school needle meters!
> > WL
> > __
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> > 
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Voltage Drop

[Harlan Sherriff via Elecraft]

You have trouble with Fluke DMM’s? 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 9:06 PM, Wilson Lamb  wrote:
> 
> Are we going to talk about RF getting into DMMs?
> The DMMs I've used can't be used on tractors or under the hood of cars not 
> even on the battery, because of ignition noise.
> There's a lot to be said for old school needle meters!
> WL
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s noise figure spec

[Edward R Cole]

Dave,

I don't know the NF, but my K3 with PR6 (which the K3s supposedly has 
internal) has a MDS of -145 dBm at 500-Hz bandwidth.  That is fine 
for 50-MHz on eme (most demanding mode).  I have a ARR P50VDG preamp 
at the base of my 6m-eme tower which provides 0.5 dBNF with 24 dB 
gain.  I run it with PR6 turned off for very slight improvement.


The K3s 50-MHz NF is probably fine with internal preamp ON.  For 
comparison my 2m-eme system MDS is -157 dBm (preamp is 0.1 
dBNF).  But on 144-MHz low NF has more benefit since sky noise is 
lower (250K vs 2000K on 6m).  In truth with the rise in environmental 
noise, low NF on 2m is getting less effective.


6m-eme folk say this:  "If your coax line loss to the antenna is < 1 
dB, locating a preamp at the antenna is unnecessary".


K3s should do fine without external preamp (in general).

BTW my KX3 with internal preamp at 30-dB gain level has equal 
sensitivity to my K3+PR6.


73, Ed - KL7UW

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2020 19:31:01 -0400
From: Dave Sublette 
To: Elecraft Discussion List 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3s noise figure spec

Does anybody KNOW what the noise figure is for the 50MHz preamp on the
K3s?  It isn't listed in the specifications.

I need to know in order to make system noise figure calculations.  My
feedline is going to be long (low loss, but long) and I'm trying to
determine if I will need a preamp mounted at the antenna.

Thanks,

Dave, K4TO


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[donovanf]

Hi Mike, 


Your email states: " The P/S output is 13.6V." 


Did you measure 13.6 volts at the output of your power supply 
under load when your transmitter is outputting 100 watts? 


73 
Frank 
W3LPL 

- Original Message -

From: "Mike Kopacki"  
To: donw...@embarqmail.com 
Cc: "elecraft@mailman qth. net"  
Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2020 12:34:48 AM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review 

I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I 
crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings 
during receive and transmit. 

Is it possible that the power supply is failing? 

Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put 
out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters? 

Thanks, 
Mike NJ2OM 

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote: 
> 
> Mike, 
> 
> The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector - commonly 
> called APP. 
> 
> For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and 
> connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for #12 
> wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the connectors. The 
> drop will be more substantial with the increased current during transmit at 
> 100 watts. 
> 
> Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of the 
> ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to the 
> banana plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for up to 30 
> to 50 amps. Is there any way you can connect ring terminals onto those power 
> supply terminals? Like removing the outer nuts from the terminals - if so 
> then switch to the ring terminals. 
> 
> 73, 
> Don W3FPR 
> 
>> On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote: 
>> 
>> Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly. 
>> 
>> I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black connectors 
>> that plug into the K2. I assume that is the “contact blade”? I see nothing 
>> else on the inside. 
>> 
>> But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full well 
>> that some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana plugs to make 
>> the power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly instructions. When I 
>> received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a solderless type that I had 
>> never seen before. I talked to three people at MFJ, none could explain how 
>> the wire attached to the plug. The third guy hung up on me. 
>> 
>> So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the 
>> configuration of the plug still eludes me. 
>> 
>> The P/S output is 13.6V. I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2. If the normal drop is 
>> .3V, it should read 13.3V at the K2. Is the difference of .2V “substantial”? 
>> 
>> Mike NJ2OM 
>> 
>> Sent from Mail  for Windows 
>> 10 
>> 
>> *From: *Don Wilhelm  
>> *Sent: *Tuesday, June 30, 2020 6:01 PM 
>> *To: *Mike Kopacki  
>> *Cc: *elecraft@mailman qth. net  
>> *Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review 
>> 
>> Mike, 
>> 
>> You should have only 0.3 volts drop IN the K2 itself, so given your 
>> 
>> display of 13.1 volts on the K2, that says you have a substantial 
>> 
>> voltage drop in the power cable. 
>> 
>> Is it wired directly to the power supply? Are all the connections 
>> 
>> tight? Is the APP assembly at the K2 correct? Look at the end of the 
>> 
>> connector - do you see only the contact blade? or can you see the end of 
>> 
>> the spring finger under the contact blade visible? If the spring finger 
>> 
>> is visible, the contact blades have not been pushed in far enough - 
>> 
>> apply pressure to the back to seat the connector. 
>> 
>> Make the same visual check on the APP connector mounted in the KPA100. 
>> 
>> If it needs correction, you will have to get inside the KPA100 to 
>> 
>> correct it. 
>> 
>> 73, 
>> 
>> Don W3FPR 
>> 
>> On 6/30/2020 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote: 
>> 
>> > Don... 
>> 
>> > 
>> 
>> > The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 
>> > 13.63V at the terminals. 
>> 
>> > 
>> 
>> > The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode. 
>> 
>> > 
>> 
>> > During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the 
>> > band. 
>> 
>> > 
>> 
>> > All the power connections appear to be tight. 
>> 
>> > 
>> 
>> > Thanks, 
>> 
>> > Mike NJ2OM 
>> 
>> > 
>> 
>> > 
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

I would expect that 12.6 volts or greater on transmit would give you 
better power on the higher bands.
You do have either a power supply problem or a Power supply to K2/100 
cabling problem.


Try the base K2 only tests that I posted about.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 8:34 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:

I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I 
crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings 
during receive and transmit.

Is it possible that the power supply is failing?

Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put 
out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM


On Jun 30, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Mike,

The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector - commonly 
called APP.

For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and 
connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for #12 
wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the connectors.  The 
drop will be more substantial with the increased current during transmit at 100 
watts.

Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of the 
ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to the banana 
plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for up to 30 to 50 
amps.  Is there any way you can connect ring terminals onto those power supply 
terminals?  Like removing the outer nuts from the terminals - if so then switch 
to the ring terminals.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:

Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly.

I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black connectors 
that plug into the K2.  I assume that is the “contact blade”?  I see nothing 
else on the inside.

But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full well that 
some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana plugs to make the 
power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly instructions. When I 
received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a solderless type that I had 
never seen before.  I talked to three people at MFJ, none could explain how the 
wire attached to the plug.  The third guy hung up on me.

So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the 
configuration of the plug still eludes me.

The P/S output is 13.6V.  I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2.  If the normal drop is 
.3V, it should read 13.3V at the K2.  Is the difference of .2V “substantial”?

Mike NJ2OM

Sent from Mail  for Windows 10

*From: *Don Wilhelm 
*Sent: *Tuesday, June 30, 2020 6:01 PM
*To: *Mike Kopacki 
*Cc: *elecraft@mailman qth. net 
*Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

Mike,

You should have only 0.3 volts drop IN the K2 itself, so given your

display of 13.1 volts on the K2, that says you have a substantial

voltage drop in the power cable.

Is it wired directly to the power supply? Are all the connections

tight?  Is the APP assembly at the K2 correct?  Look at the end of the

connector - do you see only the contact blade? or can you see the end of

the spring finger under the contact blade visible?  If the spring finger

is visible, the contact blades have not been pushed in far enough -

apply pressure to the back to seat the connector.

Make the same visual check on the APP connector mounted in the KPA100.

If it needs correction, you will have to get inside the KPA100 to

correct it.

73,

Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:


Don...
The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 13.63V 
at the terminals.
The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode.
During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the band.
All the power connections appear to be tight.
Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM


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[Elecraft] Voltage Drop

[Wilson Lamb]

Are we going to talk about RF getting into DMMs?
The DMMs I've used can't be used on tractors or under the hood of cars not even 
on the battery, because of ignition noise.
There's a lot to be said for old school needle meters!
WL
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Re: [Elecraft] Weird sounds coming from my K1...need a qualified exorcist

[Don Wilhelm]

Your link resulted in a page not found.
So I don't know what sound it made.
It may be associated with the sidetone, but I am not certain.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 6/30/2020 8:36 PM, Stephen Roberts wrote:

http://w1sfr.com/weird-k1-audio/ 


Here's what happened:

I turned on the radio to get on the air tonight.
It made this sound when I turned it on and after it booted up the sound went 
away.
I plugged in the cable to my paddle and it made the sound.
It makes the sound when I key the radio.
It makes the sound if I activate "tune" on the radio.


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

The K2 RF gain is higher on 80, 40, and 30 meters.  It takes a bit more 
drive and current on the higher bands.


Have you verified the power output of the base K2 with the KPA100 
removed?  That is an important parameter to investigate.


After verifying that the base K2 is capable of putting out 10 watts or 
more with the KPA100 removed, put the KPA100 back in-line and with power 
only to the base K2 (no connection to the high power voltage), what is 
the power output of the K2 with KPA100 - this is a test of the low pass 
filters in the KPA100.  The power output should be about the same.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 8:34 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:

I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I 
crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings 
during receive and transmit.

Is it possible that the power supply is failing?

Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put 
out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Marty via Elecraft]

Maybe because as the voltage drops below 12V the PA starts to be “less pure” on 
the higher bands and starts sending junk to the band pass filters.  The BPF do 
their job and filter out the junk and what’s left in the passband to go to the 
wattmeter is less than rated. 

I’m sure Don could explain it better in electronical terms!  ;-)

73 Marty / W4MY

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 20:34, Mike Kopacki  wrote:
> 
> I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I 
> crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings 
> during receive and transmit. 
> 
> Is it possible that the power supply is failing?
> 
> Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put 
> out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM 
> 
>> On Jun 30, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> Mike,
>> 
>> The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector - commonly 
>> called APP.
>> 
>> For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and 
>> connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for #12 
>> wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the connectors.  
>> The drop will be more substantial with the increased current during transmit 
>> at 100 watts.
>> 
>> Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of the 
>> ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to the 
>> banana plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for up to 
>> 30 to 50 amps.  Is there any way you can connect ring terminals onto those 
>> power supply terminals?  Like removing the outer nuts from the terminals - 
>> if so then switch to the ring terminals.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>>> On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>>> 
>>> Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly.
>>> 
>>> I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black connectors 
>>> that plug into the K2.  I assume that is the “contact blade”?  I see 
>>> nothing else on the inside.
>>> 
>>> But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full well 
>>> that some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana plugs to 
>>> make the power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly instructions. 
>>> When I received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a solderless type 
>>> that I had never seen before.  I talked to three people at MFJ, none could 
>>> explain how the wire attached to the plug.  The third guy hung up on me.
>>> 
>>> So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the 
>>> configuration of the plug still eludes me.
>>> 
>>> The P/S output is 13.6V.  I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2.  If the normal drop 
>>> is .3V, it should read 13.3V at the K2.  Is the difference of .2V 
>>> “substantial”?
>>> 
>>> Mike NJ2OM
>>> 
>>> Sent from Mail  for Windows 
>>> 10
>>> 
>>> *From: *Don Wilhelm 
>>> *Sent: *Tuesday, June 30, 2020 6:01 PM
>>> *To: *Mike Kopacki 
>>> *Cc: *elecraft@mailman qth. net 
>>> *Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review
>>> 
>>> Mike,
>>> 
>>> You should have only 0.3 volts drop IN the K2 itself, so given your
>>> 
>>> display of 13.1 volts on the K2, that says you have a substantial
>>> 
>>> voltage drop in the power cable.
>>> 
>>> Is it wired directly to the power supply? Are all the connections
>>> 
>>> tight?  Is the APP assembly at the K2 correct?  Look at the end of the
>>> 
>>> connector - do you see only the contact blade? or can you see the end of
>>> 
>>> the spring finger under the contact blade visible?  If the spring finger
>>> 
>>> is visible, the contact blades have not been pushed in far enough -
>>> 
>>> apply pressure to the back to seat the connector.
>>> 
>>> Make the same visual check on the APP connector mounted in the KPA100.
>>> 
>>> If it needs correction, you will have to get inside the KPA100 to
>>> 
>>> correct it.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> 
>>> Don W3FPR
>>> 
 On 6/30/2020 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
 
 Don...
>>> 
 
>>> 
 The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 
 13.63V at the terminals.
>>> 
 
>>> 
 The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode.
>>> 
 
>>> 
 During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the 
 band.
>>> 
 
>>> 
 All the power connections appear to be tight.
>>> 
 
>>> 
 Thanks,
>>> 
 Mike NJ2OM
>>> 
 
>>> 
 
>>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s noise figure spec

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

I don't know the answer to your question, but if you use a preamp at the 
antenna, you will not need to use the preamp in the K3S.

The preamp at the the antenna will set the noise figure for the system.
The preamp at the K3S end of the feedline will have to consider the 
feedline loss.


At 50 MHz the difference (mast preamp vs. receiver preamp) may be of 
little concern, but at higher frequencies it can be significant.


Many VHF operators run with mast mounted preamps with a separate receive 
feedline to the receiver - often with RG-58 feedline because the 
feedline loss is not important for mast mounted preamps.  50 MHz is in 
the middle ground for that consideration.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 7:31 PM, Dave Sublette wrote:

Does anybody KNOW what the noise figure is for the 50MHz preamp on the
K3s?  It isn't listed in the specifications.

I need to know in order to make system noise figure calculations.  My
feedline is going to be long (low loss, but long) and I'm trying to
determine if I will need a preamp mounted at the antenna.


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[Elecraft] Weird sounds coming from my K1...need a qualified exorcist

[Stephen Roberts]

http://w1sfr.com/weird-k1-audio/ 


Here's what happened:

I turned on the radio to get on the air tonight.
It made this sound when I turned it on and after it booted up the sound went 
away.
I plugged in the cable to my paddle and it made the sound.
It makes the sound when I key the radio.
It makes the sound if I activate "tune" on the radio.

Steve
W1SFR


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Mike Kopacki]

I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I 
crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings 
during receive and transmit. 

Is it possible that the power supply is failing?

Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put 
out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM 

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector - commonly 
> called APP.
> 
> For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and 
> connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for #12 
> wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the connectors.  The 
> drop will be more substantial with the increased current during transmit at 
> 100 watts.
> 
> Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of the 
> ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to the 
> banana plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for up to 30 
> to 50 amps.  Is there any way you can connect ring terminals onto those power 
> supply terminals?  Like removing the outer nuts from the terminals - if so 
> then switch to the ring terminals.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>> 
>> Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly.
>> 
>> I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black connectors 
>> that plug into the K2.  I assume that is the “contact blade”?  I see nothing 
>> else on the inside.
>> 
>> But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full well 
>> that some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana plugs to make 
>> the power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly instructions. When I 
>> received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a solderless type that I had 
>> never seen before.  I talked to three people at MFJ, none could explain how 
>> the wire attached to the plug.  The third guy hung up on me.
>> 
>> So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the 
>> configuration of the plug still eludes me.
>> 
>> The P/S output is 13.6V.  I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2.  If the normal drop is 
>> .3V, it should read 13.3V at the K2.  Is the difference of .2V “substantial”?
>> 
>> Mike NJ2OM
>> 
>> Sent from Mail  for Windows 
>> 10
>> 
>> *From: *Don Wilhelm 
>> *Sent: *Tuesday, June 30, 2020 6:01 PM
>> *To: *Mike Kopacki 
>> *Cc: *elecraft@mailman qth. net 
>> *Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review
>> 
>> Mike,
>> 
>> You should have only 0.3 volts drop IN the K2 itself, so given your
>> 
>> display of 13.1 volts on the K2, that says you have a substantial
>> 
>> voltage drop in the power cable.
>> 
>> Is it wired directly to the power supply? Are all the connections
>> 
>> tight?  Is the APP assembly at the K2 correct?  Look at the end of the
>> 
>> connector - do you see only the contact blade? or can you see the end of
>> 
>> the spring finger under the contact blade visible?  If the spring finger
>> 
>> is visible, the contact blades have not been pushed in far enough -
>> 
>> apply pressure to the back to seat the connector.
>> 
>> Make the same visual check on the APP connector mounted in the KPA100.
>> 
>> If it needs correction, you will have to get inside the KPA100 to
>> 
>> correct it.
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>> On 6/30/2020 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>> 
>> > Don...
>> 
>> >
>> 
>> > The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 
>> > 13.63V at the terminals.
>> 
>> >
>> 
>> > The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode.
>> 
>> >
>> 
>> > During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the 
>> > band.
>> 
>> >
>> 
>> > All the power connections appear to be tight.
>> 
>> >
>> 
>> > Thanks,
>> 
>> > Mike NJ2OM
>> 
>> >
>> 
>> >
>> 
> 
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[Elecraft] K3s noise figure spec

[Dave Sublette]

Does anybody KNOW what the noise figure is for the 50MHz preamp on the
K3s?  It isn't listed in the specifications.

I need to know in order to make system noise figure calculations.  My
feedline is going to be long (low loss, but long) and I'm trying to
determine if I will need a preamp mounted at the antenna.

Thanks,

Dave, K4TO
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector - 
commonly called APP.


For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and 
connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for 
#12 wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the 
connectors.  The drop will be more substantial with the increased 
current during transmit at 100 watts.


Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of 
the ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to 
the banana plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for 
up to 30 to 50 amps.  Is there any way you can connect ring terminals 
onto those power supply terminals?  Like removing the outer nuts from 
the terminals - if so then switch to the ring terminals.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:


Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly.

I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black 
connectors that plug into the K2.  I assume that is the “contact 
blade”?  I see nothing else on the inside.


But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full 
well that some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana 
plugs to make the power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly 
instructions. When I received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a 
solderless type that I had never seen before.  I talked to three 
people at MFJ, none could explain how the wire attached to the plug.  
The third guy hung up on me.


So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the 
configuration of the plug still eludes me.


The P/S output is 13.6V.  I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2.  If the normal 
drop is .3V, it should read 13.3V at the K2.  Is the difference of .2V 
“substantial”?


Mike NJ2OM

Sent from Mail  for 
Windows 10


*From: *Don Wilhelm 
*Sent: *Tuesday, June 30, 2020 6:01 PM
*To: *Mike Kopacki 
*Cc: *elecraft@mailman qth. net 
*Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

Mike,

You should have only 0.3 volts drop IN the K2 itself, so given your

display of 13.1 volts on the K2, that says you have a substantial

voltage drop in the power cable.

Is it wired directly to the power supply? Are all the connections

tight?  Is the APP assembly at the K2 correct?  Look at the end of the

connector - do you see only the contact blade? or can you see the end of

the spring finger under the contact blade visible?  If the spring finger

is visible, the contact blades have not been pushed in far enough -

apply pressure to the back to seat the connector.

Make the same visual check on the APP connector mounted in the KPA100.

If it needs correction, you will have to get inside the KPA100 to

correct it.

73,

Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:

> Don...

>

> The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It 
measures 13.63V at the terminals.


>

> The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode.

>

> During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on 
the band.


>

> All the power connections appear to be tight.

>

> Thanks,

> Mike NJ2OM

>

>



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Mike Kopacki]

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Mike Kopacki]

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

You should have only 0.3 volts drop IN the K2 itself, so given your 
display of 13.1 volts on the K2, that says you have a substantial 
voltage drop in the power cable.
Is it wired directly to the power supply?  Are all the connections 
tight?  Is the APP assembly at the K2 correct?  Look at the end of the 
connector - do you see only the contact blade? or can you see the end of 
the spring finger under the contact blade visible?  If the spring finger 
is visible, the contact blades have not been pushed in far enough - 
apply pressure to the back to seat the connector.


Make the same visual check on the APP connector mounted in the KPA100.  
If it needs correction, you will have to get inside the KPA100 to 
correct it.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:

Don...

The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 13.63V 
at the terminals.

The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode.

During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the band.

All the power connections appear to be tight.

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM




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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Books

[Bill Johnson]

I solved my issues with understanding Elecraft radios, I prefer all thee 
methods of learning to fully know the ins and outs.  What assists me most after 
reading all pertinent parts to my use, is to search a downloaded PDF manual to 
find what I have forgotten and need to refresh my memory.   To me I don't  find 
more books helpful, just the manual and use and quick searches.  Oh, and I save 
the current settings frequently in case I really screw up.  Before I restore, I 
use the issue as a learning tool.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 9:10 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 Books

Skip,

Fred addressed 3 different learning methods in his books.  First was those who 
learn by reading (I am one of those), 2nd is those who learn from examples 
(expanded reading) and thirdly those who learn from hands-on exercises.  Fred 
addressed all 3 in his books.
He did comment that there was nothing in his books that was not in the Elecraft 
manual, but his approach to presenting the material was different.  That is why 
his books exceed 200 pages while the Elecraft manuals are usually in the 
vicinity of 100 pages.

On 6/29/2020 7:37 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
> I found that the value in Fred's book was due to approach.  The K3 
> manual is good ... very good ... and like most all user manuals, takes 
> a "control approach" -- "The SHIFT and WIDTH controls adjust the 
> center frequency and the width of the DSP filtering."  Fred's book 
> explains what the DSP filtering is, the effects the controls have on 
> it, and how it affects operation of the radio.
> 
> I'm not suggesting the "control approach" is wrong or bad, user 
> manuals need to explain what each control does.  It's just a different 
> approach to the subject.  I find both very useful.
> 
>  From what little I know about the K4, I can't imagine that either a 
> K3 manual or Fred's K3 book would be of much value for a new K4 owner.
> 
> 73,
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
> On 6/29/2020 4:20 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> Tongue planted firmly in cheek --
>> What? Study the manual?  We are hams and can just push buttons and 
>> turn knobs and see what happens!
>>
>> Seriously, I think some hams really do it that way.
>>
>> How much more pleasure would they get out of their gear if they took 
>> the time to study the manual.  That is NOT a casual perusal paging 
>> through the manual.
>> That is sitting down in front of the radio with the manual open and 
>> identifying things as well as trying things out with a dummy load 
>> when it involves transmitting.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> On 6/29/2020 7:06 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
>>>
>>> Maybe study the manual? Worked fine for me with most ham gear I've 
>>> owned, including the K3 and companion products.
>>>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Grant Youngman]

The connections may be tight, but how many are there?  Are you running straight 
from the power supply to the radio without any intervening junction points, Rig 
Runners, etc.?

Grant NQ5T

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki  wrote:
> 
> Don...
> 
> The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 
> 13.63V at the terminals. 
> 
> The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode. 
> 
> During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the band. 
> 
> All the power connections appear to be tight. 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Mike Kopacki]

Don...

The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 13.63V 
at the terminals. 

The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode. 

During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the band. 

All the power connections appear to be tight. 

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM 

> On Jun 29, 2020, at 12:45 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> It is not reasonable to expect a normal wattmeter to have greater than a 10% 
> accuracy.
> Consider that the spec for a Bird wattmeter is only 5% right after 
> calibration.
> Digital wattmeters can be much more accurate, such as the LP-100 from 
> Telepostinc, but they are calibrated to NIST traceable standards.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 6/29/2020 8:50 AM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>> Okay. I will go back to your first reply and run through the items you 
>> suggested.
>> 
>> Does the fact that on 40 and 80 meters, when I set the requested power to 
>> 100w, I actually see a little more - like 103w - but the power drops off on 
>> other bands - is that a clue to anything?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Mike NJ2OM
>> 
 On Jun 28, 2020, at 10:50 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Mike,
>>> 
>>> No, the KPA100 wattmeter will display the actual power being produced if it 
>>> is well calibrated.
>>> That is not necessarily the same as the requested power, although with a 
>>> properly working KPA100 and a calibrated KPA100 wattmeter, the reading 
>>> should be the same.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>> 
 On 6/28/2020 9:41 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
 I can run through some of the items you suggest. But I don’t have an 
 external wattmeter that can measure 100 watts. I do have a QRP wattmeter.
 
 I will start tomorrow to try and work through the question.
 
 But to be completely accurate...you are saying that the KPA100 wattmeter 
 (which is what I see when pressing TUNE and DISPLAY together), should read 
 the same as the REQUESTED power (which is what the power knob sets)?
 
 Thanks,
 Mike NJ2OM
 
>> On Jun 28, 2020, at 8:58 PM, Eric Norris  
>> wrote:
> 
> Congratulations, Mike!  Please let us ALL know how it goes, as we of the 
> K2 clan learn something with every post.
> 
> 73 Eric WD6DBM
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020, 2:12 PM Mike Kopacki > > wrote:
>Well, that gives me something to do!  I’ll let you know how it goes.
> 
>Thanks,
>Mike NJ2OM
> 
>> On Jun 28, 2020, at 4:41 PM, Don Wilhelm
>mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> Congratulations on finishing the K2/100.
>>
>> On the power output variation, that is not normal.
>> First check the voltage delivered to the K2 while in transmit.
>> You should do that by tapping DISPLAY and scrolling to the
>voltage display.  Your power source should provide at least 13.8
>volts, but higher (up to 15 volts) is better.  If the voltage
>shown by the K2 display during transmit is less than 12.6, make
>certain all power cable connections are tight.
>>
>> If the power supply voltage is not the problem, then remove the
>KPA100 from the base K2 and realign the bandpass filters.
>Connect a dummy load to the base K2 BNC ANT jack.  After that,
>check the maximum power from the base K2 - you should have at
>least 10 watts on each band.  Record the power for each band.
>>
>> Using a dummy load takes away any question about your
>antennas.  Always check into a dummy load - with an in-line
>wattmeter if necessary.
>>
>> The other possibility is that you have a problem in the Low
>Pass Filter in the KPA100.  To check for that, re-install the
>KPA100, but power the base K2 from the coaxial power jack (no
>power to the KPA100 - connect the dummy load to the SO2339 jack
>on the KPA100.
>> Again check the maximum power on each band from the base K2.
>It should be no more than 5% less than you found with the base K2
>only.
>> If there is a substantial difference in power, then check the
>KPA100 Low Pass Filter - particularly checking the number of
>turns on the toroids.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>>
>>> On 6/28/2020 4:04 PM, NJMike wrote:
>>> I did notice a variation on the power output on different bands:
>>> 80m - 100w
>>> 40m - 100w
>>> 20m - 80w
>>> 15m - 50w
>>> 10m - 30w
>>> SWR was never above 1.3-1.
>>> Does that sound normal?
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>Post: 

Re: [Elecraft] kx2 SSB always in TX

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

I am wondering if the shaft (sleeve) on the mic plug is just a bit too 
long - try backing the plug out a tiny bit at a time (thickness of heavy 
paper) to see if that takes care of it.


That is all I can think of.  I suggest you contact supp...@elecraft.com 
for additional suggestions.


The most positive test would be for you to try that same mic in a 
different KX3 or KX3.  If it works OK, then you will know that you have 
a problem with your mic jack in the KX2 - even though it behaved with 
the stereo plug.
I would not suggest taking the mic apart, I suspect from your ohmmeter 
measurement that the mic is OK and the problem is with the plug.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 4:48 PM, Michael Walker wrote:

Hi

No, nothing else plugged into the radio.

As for a 2nd Mic, not at this time and I am not at home near my 
workbench which has lots of bits to try things.  If I have time 
tonight, I will open up the Mic and do some more tracing.


I think we have gone as far as we can go at this point given the tools 
I have.  I'll do more lab work on it when I get back home next week.


I got the internal mic to work as it should, so I can make do with 
that for the time being.


thanks for your help.

73, Mike va3mw


On Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 4:45 PM Don Wilhelm > wrote:


Mike,

Solution unknown - either you have a bad mic plug on that MH3, or
there
is a problem with your KX2 mic jack.
Do you know anyone else who has a KX2 or KX3 that could try your
microphone?

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 3:02 PM, Michael Walker wrote:
> Ops, missed that.  I used shield ground, not logic ground.
>
> However, when I tested Ring 1 to Ring 2, it is open and then shorts
> when you push the PTT button.  This seems to be working as designed.
>
> I did confirm that mic is plugged in all the way and did a close
> visual look at it to make sure.
>
>



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Re: [Elecraft] kx2 SSB always in TX

[Michael Walker]

Hi

No, nothing else plugged into the radio.

As for a 2nd Mic, not at this time and I am not at home near my workbench
which has lots of bits to try things.  If I have time tonight, I will open
up the Mic and do some more tracing.

I think we have gone as far as we can go at this point given the tools I
have.  I'll do more lab work on it when I get back home next week.

I got the internal mic to work as it should, so I can make do with that for
the time being.

thanks for your help.

73, Mike va3mw


On Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 4:45 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Mike,
>
> Solution unknown - either you have a bad mic plug on that MH3, or there
> is a problem with your KX2 mic jack.
> Do you know anyone else who has a KX2 or KX3 that could try your
> microphone?
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/30/2020 3:02 PM, Michael Walker wrote:
> > Ops, missed that.  I used shield ground, not logic ground.
> >
> > However, when I tested Ring 1 to Ring 2, it is open and then shorts
> > when you push the PTT button.  This seems to be working as designed.
> >
> > I did confirm that mic is plugged in all the way and did a close
> > visual look at it to make sure.
> >
> >
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] kx2 SSB always in TX

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

Solution unknown - either you have a bad mic plug on that MH3, or there 
is a problem with your KX2 mic jack.

Do you know anyone else who has a KX2 or KX3 that could try your microphone?

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 3:02 PM, Michael Walker wrote:

Ops, missed that.  I used shield ground, not logic ground.

However, when I tested Ring 1 to Ring 2, it is open and then shorts 
when you push the PTT button.  This seems to be working as designed.


I did confirm that mic is plugged in all the way and did a close 
visual look at it to make sure.





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Re: [Elecraft] kx2 SSB always in TX

[Nr4c]

What mic are you using?

Is anything else plugged into the radio?



Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jun 30, 2020, at 1:03 PM, Michael Walker  wrote:
> 
> Hi All
> 
> I have had a kx2 since they first came out and I have chased this problem
> since day 1.  But, since I never use it on SSB, I have never worried about
> it.  s/n 337
> 
> Everything I plug in the MH3 Mic, the radio goes into TX.  I have the
> latest firmware on it.
> 
> If Menu:MIC BTN is set to OFF, it does not TX with the PTT button on the MIC
> If Menu:MIC BTN is set to PTT, the radios into TX as soon as you plug the
> MIC in
> If Menu:MIC BTN is set to Ptt UP.dn, the radio goes into TX as soon as you
> plug the MIC in
> 
> VOX is off
> 
> Next test was to try the internal MIC.
> 
> My testing is in LSB on 40M.
> 
> Touching XMIT puts the radio into TX, but the only way out of TX is to hit
> the ATU button.  Hitting XMIT again does nothing.  Unfortunately, that
> doesn't work either.
> 
> I was headed out on a Canoe trip tomorrow and was hoping to use SSB as a
> mode while I was in the Great White North.
> 
> Any thoughts of the next steps to solve this in a few hours?
> 
> Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] kx2 SSB always in TX

[Michael Walker]

Ops, missed that.  I used shield ground, not logic ground.

However, when I tested Ring 1 to Ring 2, it is open and then shorts when
you push the PTT button.  This seems to be working as designed.

I did confirm that mic is plugged in all the way and did a close visual
look at it to make sure.

Mike va3mw


On Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 2:56 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Mike,
>
> Did you read the continuity between the 1st and 2nd rings of the MH3 plug?
> The MH3 PTT connects those two rings (and not the shell).
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/30/2020 1:27 PM, Michael Walker wrote:
> > Thanks Don
> >
> > Plugging a Stereo  (3 conductor) does not cause the radio to go into
> > TX with Menu:MIC BTN set to Ptt.
> >
> > Looking like a bad MH3.
> >
> > I did ohm out the MIC between ground and the PTT line and it did show
> > open.  I would be expecting a short.
> >
> > Mike va3mw
> >
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] kx2 SSB always in TX

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

Did you read the continuity between the 1st and 2nd rings of the MH3 plug?
The MH3 PTT connects those two rings (and not the shell).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 1:27 PM, Michael Walker wrote:

Thanks Don

Plugging a Stereo  (3 conductor) does not cause the radio to go into 
TX with Menu:MIC BTN set to Ptt.


Looking like a bad MH3.

I did ohm out the MIC between ground and the PTT line and it did show 
open.  I would be expecting a short.


Mike va3mw



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Re: [Elecraft] kx2 SSB always in TX

[Michael Walker]

Thanks Don

Plugging a Stereo  (3 conductor) does not cause the radio to go into TX
with Menu:MIC BTN set to Ptt.

Looking like a bad MH3.

I did ohm out the MIC between ground and the PTT line and it did show
open.  I would be expecting a short.

Mike va3mw

On Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 1:18 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Mike,
>
> Do you have a normal stereo plug available? - or a stereo audio cable
> with nothing on the far end?  If so, plug that in and see if the same
> thing happens - make certain it is in all the way.  If not, the MH3 has
> a problem.
> If it still goes into transmit, the KX2 has a problem.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/30/2020 12:59 PM, Michael Walker wrote:
> > Hi All
> >
> > I have had a kx2 since they first came out and I have chased this problem
> > since day 1.  But, since I never use it on SSB, I have never worried
> about
> > it.  s/n 337
> >
> > Everything I plug in the MH3 Mic, the radio goes into TX.  I have the
> > latest firmware on it.
> >
> > If Menu:MIC BTN is set to OFF, it does not TX with the PTT button on the
> MIC
> > If Menu:MIC BTN is set to PTT, the radios into TX as soon as you plug the
> > MIC in
> > If Menu:MIC BTN is set to Ptt UP.dn, the radio goes into TX as soon as
> you
> > plug the MIC in
> >
> > VOX is off
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] kx2 SSB always in TX

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

Do you have a normal stereo plug available? - or a stereo audio cable 
with nothing on the far end?  If so, plug that in and see if the same 
thing happens - make certain it is in all the way.  If not, the MH3 has 
a problem.

If it still goes into transmit, the KX2 has a problem.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 12:59 PM, Michael Walker wrote:

Hi All

I have had a kx2 since they first came out and I have chased this problem
since day 1.  But, since I never use it on SSB, I have never worried about
it.  s/n 337

Everything I plug in the MH3 Mic, the radio goes into TX.  I have the
latest firmware on it.

If Menu:MIC BTN is set to OFF, it does not TX with the PTT button on the MIC
If Menu:MIC BTN is set to PTT, the radios into TX as soon as you plug the
MIC in
If Menu:MIC BTN is set to Ptt UP.dn, the radio goes into TX as soon as you
plug the MIC in

VOX is off


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Re: [Elecraft] kx2 SSB always in TX

[Michael Walker]

Update on this.

If you are in the Menu, the XMIT does not work.  If out of the Menu, it
works as expected as does Vox.

However, the External Mic problem still exists.

I did Ohm out the MH3 PTT line and it isn't shorted at all, so the Mic is
not the issue.

Mike va3mw


On Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 12:59 PM Michael Walker 
wrote:

> Hi All
>
> I have had a kx2 since they first came out and I have chased this problem
> since day 1.  But, since I never use it on SSB, I have never worried about
> it.  s/n 337
>
> Everything I plug in the MH3 Mic, the radio goes into TX.  I have the
> latest firmware on it.
>
> If Menu:MIC BTN is set to OFF, it does not TX with the PTT button on the
> MIC
> If Menu:MIC BTN is set to PTT, the radios into TX as soon as you plug the
> MIC in
> If Menu:MIC BTN is set to Ptt UP.dn, the radio goes into TX as soon as you
> plug the MIC in
>
> VOX is off
>
> Next test was to try the internal MIC.
>
> My testing is in LSB on 40M.
>
> Touching XMIT puts the radio into TX, but the only way out of TX is to hit
> the ATU button.  Hitting XMIT again does nothing.  Unfortunately, that
> doesn't work either.
>
> I was headed out on a Canoe trip tomorrow and was hoping to use SSB as a
> mode while I was in the Great White North.
>
> Any thoughts of the next steps to solve this in a few hours?
>
> Mike va3mw
>
>
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[Elecraft] kx2 SSB always in TX

[Michael Walker]

Hi All

I have had a kx2 since they first came out and I have chased this problem
since day 1.  But, since I never use it on SSB, I have never worried about
it.  s/n 337

Everything I plug in the MH3 Mic, the radio goes into TX.  I have the
latest firmware on it.

If Menu:MIC BTN is set to OFF, it does not TX with the PTT button on the MIC
If Menu:MIC BTN is set to PTT, the radios into TX as soon as you plug the
MIC in
If Menu:MIC BTN is set to Ptt UP.dn, the radio goes into TX as soon as you
plug the MIC in

VOX is off

Next test was to try the internal MIC.

My testing is in LSB on 40M.

Touching XMIT puts the radio into TX, but the only way out of TX is to hit
the ATU button.  Hitting XMIT again does nothing.  Unfortunately, that
doesn't work either.

I was headed out on a Canoe trip tomorrow and was hoping to use SSB as a
mode while I was in the Great White North.

Any thoughts of the next steps to solve this in a few hours?

Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 at Field Day

[Ted Edwards W3TB]

I did, too.  Love my K3!  1039 QSOs and all on CW.
Letting my microphone get dusty...

On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 8:02 PM Tom Doligalski via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> I ran my K3 hard this year as 1D in Field Day. What a champ: never even
> got warm!
>
> Maybe a K4 next year?
>
> Tom W4KX
>
> Sent from my iPad
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-- 
73 de Ted Edwards, W3TB and GØPWW

and thinking about operating CW:
"Do today what others won't,
so you can do tomorrow what others can't."
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Drift During Field Day

[Ian Kahn]

Richard,

Drift was seen on the KX2 digital display, and indicated by concomitant
very mild audio distortion from being slightly off frequency.

I am perfectly willing to accept that I may have just been getting a small
bit of RFI, but was just curious if anyone else has seen this behavior
before.

Thanks and 73,

Ian, NV4C

On Tue, Jun 30, 2020, 6:14 AM Richard Corfield 
wrote:

> Are you talking about the output frequency as measured on another device?
> Or the numeric readout on the radio's own display?
>
> I've seen shifts in some situations on 2m, which I think was RF getting
> into it. If you turn off Mic Up/Down button control maybe it will help
> there.
>
> I've had issues where I knocked the dial before. Oops.
>
>  - Richard
>
>
> On Mon, 29 Jun 2020 at 23:37, Ian Kahn, NV4C  wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>> I have KX2 s/n 2862. I noticed while operating Field Day that, about
>> every 15 minutes, it would drift down 1 Hz. Has anyone else ever seen
>> this in their KX2? I will admit it is possible this was just the effect
>> of RF getting back into the rig, but at 10W, I'm not really sure where
>> enough would come from to cause an issue.
>>
>> Thanks and 73,
>>
>> Ian, NV4C
>>
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>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Drift During Field Day

[Richard Corfield]

Are you talking about the output frequency as measured on another device?
Or the numeric readout on the radio's own display?

I've seen shifts in some situations on 2m, which I think was RF getting
into it. If you turn off Mic Up/Down button control maybe it will help
there.

I've had issues where I knocked the dial before. Oops.

 - Richard


On Mon, 29 Jun 2020 at 23:37, Ian Kahn, NV4C  wrote:

> All,
>
> I have KX2 s/n 2862. I noticed while operating Field Day that, about
> every 15 minutes, it would drift down 1 Hz. Has anyone else ever seen
> this in their KX2? I will admit it is possible this was just the effect
> of RF getting back into the rig, but at 10W, I'm not really sure where
> enough would come from to cause an issue.
>
> Thanks and 73,
>
> Ian, NV4C
>
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