[Elecraft] FS: KPA100/KAT100 in EC2 (price reduced)

2014-09-25 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Hi all ... it's been a few years since I've made any noise here (and a 
little while since I've been on the air). Life has taken some 
interesting turns and my radio focus has shifted. I bought a K3 a while 
ago and love it. I'm not ready to let go of my K2 (that will probably 
*never* happen), but the KPA100/KAT100 combination in EC2 case would be 
happier in someone else's shack.


It's in excellent shape, works great, comes with the cables and manuals 
and boxes and everything. I'm asking $400 plus shipping. Photos 
available on request.


VY 73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] FS: KPA100/KAT100 in EC2

2014-08-15 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Hi all ... it's been a few years since I've made any noise here (and a little 
while since I've been on the air). Life has taken some interesting turns and my 
radio focus has shifted. I bought a K3 a while ago and love it. I'm not ready 
to let go of my K2 (that will probably *never* happen), but the KPA100/KAT100 
combination in EC2 case would be happier in someone else's shack.


It's in excellent shape, works great, comes with the cables and manuals and 
boxes and everything. I'm asking $550 plus shipping. Photos available on request.


VY 73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] FS: K1 with all the trimmings

2010-04-14 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
For sale: Elecraft K1-2 s/n 00735, with the following accessories:

- KFL1-4 four-band module (40/30/20/15 meters)
- KAT1 ATU
- K1BKLTKIT backlight kit
- KNB1 noise blanker
- KTS1 wide-range tilt stand
- FDIMP finger dimple

The original two-band module is set for 80/17 meters. The radio is built with
the narrow (80kHz) VFO range; it has been upgraded from rev D to rev E.
Includes a power cable and all documentation, including the original printed
manual (slightly stained cover).

I'm the second owner. The radio has never been in a smoking environment. I'd
rate it an 8 or 9 - works perfectly, easily puts out 5W on all bands, has a few
cosmetic flaws. I bought for my vacation QTH and find I don't use it much, so
it's time to pass it along to someone who will. You can see some photos at 
http://www.dimebank.com/misc/K1/

I've listed this on a couple of other sites; $500 from someone on this list 
will take it first :-)

73 de chris K6DBG

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[Elecraft] FS: K1 with all the trimmings

2010-02-21 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
For sale: Elecraft K1-2 s/n 00735, with the following accessories:

- KFL1-4 four-band module (40/30/20/15 meters)
- KAT1 ATU
- K1BKLTKIT backlight kit
- KNB1 noise blanker
- KTS1 wide-range tilt stand
- FDIMP finger dimple

The original two-band module is set for 80/17 meters. The radio is built with 
the narrow (80kHz) VFO range; it has been upgraded from rev D to rev E. 
Includes a power cable and all documentation, including the original printed 
manual (slightly stained cover).

I'm the second owner. The radio has never been in a smoking environment. I'd 
rate it an 8 or 9 - works perfectly, easily puts out 5W on all bands, has a few 
cosmetic flaws. I bought for my vacation QTH and find I don't use it much, so 
it's time to pass it along to someone who will.

I've listed this for $600 (shipped to a US address) on a couple of other sites; 
$550 from someone on this list will take it first :-)

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Re? has the k2 a future?

2009-10-14 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
My vote would be to bring some of the K3's DSP algorithms - especially the 
noise reduction - to the 
K2's DSP board!

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] auto-disconnect antenna relays? (KAT100 related)

2009-10-10 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I've just replaced the 1N5711 SWR diodes in my KAT100 for the Nth time. It's 
annoying, but I guess 
it's not annoying enough to cause me to disconnect my antennas every time I 
turn off the radio!

Here in northern California, we don't have many thunderstorms, but apparently 
we get enough wind 
static to damage these diodes once every year or so. I really wish there was an 
idiot-proof way to 
disconnect the antennas without any intervention on my part!

A small box that was powered from my 12v distribution panel and has two 
suitable relays in it would 
be welcome. I guess I could make it myself, but I wonder if anyone else has 
already done so, in a 
way that integrates cleanly to the KAT100 outputs? I wouldn't want them in the 
KAT2, since I operate 
from battery at times. But when I'm running the KAT100, I am using more power 
than I have battery ...

(Does the K3 have such relays in the output circuitry?)

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] oops - KAT100 LEDs dark

2009-07-23 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I have my KPA100 and KAT100 mounted separately in an EC2 that sits to
the left of my K2, and the SWR LEDs are mostly hidden when I'm operating.
This morning I got a HI REFL warning and hit the TUNE button. Much
clacking and things were better. But it caused me to look at the
KAT100 SWR scale and notice that only the 2 and LOW LEDs are lit -
or HIGH if I switch to non-QRP.

All the tuner clatter doesn't really change much - at least, not in
the ATU MENU display, which claims 9.9-1. When I hit TUNE, though
it always says 1.0-1.

I'm guessing that I somehow cooked one or both of the protection diodes?
I suppose that's the place to start, anyway. Good thing that I run
resonant antennas here!

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Pole Turtotial and Tool Suggestion

2009-04-23 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
For folks who are having problems with APP coming apart, check out

http://www.powerwerx.com/product.asp?ProdID=1781CtgID=1679

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 carry cases

2009-03-28 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Like some other folks, I transport my KX1 in a small Pelican 1060 case
which provides room for paddles, earplugs and antenna fixings. It's
perhaps a little bulkier than I'd like, but not much.

A while back, I had the idea of making up a protective cap that would
fit over the control surface and present a smooth face, to slip into
most any carrying conveyance. I designed one in a CAD program, thinking
that I'd get a prototype or two made on a 3D printer. This turns out
to be prohibitively expensive - about $125 each, for a design that
I don't know is correct! So I have set that project aside for now... but
if someone has the ability to run such a thing more cheaply, I'd
be happy to share the design.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] K2 resetting itself

2009-03-23 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I was happily monitoring 14.058 this afternoon when my K2 turned itself off.
I cycled the power button and it came on enough to say ELECrAFT and to
hear a little audio, and then shut down. Then cycling the switch didn't
do anything. Or would do a little.

I figured it was causing F1 to reset. Put it on the bench and sure enough,
it's drawing about 5.6A ... the manual is not terribly helpful about
diagnosing.

I opened it up and started removing boards. Can't really find anything.
It would have been too easy if something in the battery charging circuitry
had shorted ... With the switch ON, +12V shows 105 ohms to ground.
That can't be good.

I'm not really sure how to diagnose this. The PA transistors seem
like a place to start: the emitters are grounded, when the switch
is OFF, the collectors have about 100 ohms to ground (can that be
right?) , the base about 134 ohms.

Suggestions would be quite welcome.

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] 45A APP Crimper

2009-02-17 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Sounds like it's time for me to repost this link to my favorite
article about amateur wiring, solder and crimping :-)

http://www.dimebank.com/misc/soldered_connections.html

I (almost) never use the ubiquitous insulated terminals that are intended
to be crimped once, crushing and uglifying the plastic sleeve in the
process. I pull the stupid sleeve, use a heavy duty crimper (I have
appropriate dies for my West Mountain crimper), and put on a layer
or two of heat shrink to stabilize the joint. If I expect the 
connection to be out in the weather, I lightly solder the open end to
avoid moisture entering the crimp. Even if it's airtight, it can't hurt.

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 filter center frequency shift with band?

2009-01-05 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Julian, Don:

You hit it right on the head - I'd forgotten about the sideband
reversal issue. Hitting CW RV puts the audio signal right where 
I expect it when using 15m.

I was shifting the MARK frequency by about 900 Hz (using the 
values built into MMTTY, from 1175 to 2000) which was a little
bit too far.

If I do a lot of RTTY (unlikely), I may revisit how the filters 
are set up and try to get them symmetric; I don't recall being
very careful in the setup with I first tried to get RTTY going.

Thanks!

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] K2 filter center frequency shift with band?

2009-01-04 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I'm playing in the RTTY Roundup this weekend, using a simple AFSK setup
with my K2. For some reason, when operating on 15m I need to shift
the Mark frequency to get the signals to fall inside the filter.

This doesn't match up with how I understand the K2's filters to work;
I expect the center frequency of the filter to be the same regardless
of the band.

What am I misunderstanding?

73 de chris K6DBG


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[Elecraft] Re: Questions from a Liberal Arts Major

2008-11-16 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Time for me to point to my favorite treatise on crimping vs soldering:

http://www.dimebank.com/misc/soldered_connections.html

(These days, I crimp, solder the lug end but don't let the solder
flow all the way to the wire end, and use heat shrink to prevent
flexing. If there is any chance it will get moist, I put hot melt
glue under the heat shrink!)

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: K1/K2 question

2008-11-16 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 You might have your friend check out the HF SuperPacker Pro. I think 
 Virgil K5OOR is going to be doing a run of these in January.

I think Virgil's doing a great job bringing these projects and kits out,
but ... I enjoyed building a HFPacker amp, but didn't keep it long.
I found that it was *very* sensitive to taking too much input,
also to a mismatched antenna. I blew the MOSFETs in the first week
of (what I thought was) gentle use. I replaced them, made sure it
all worked, and sold it. I bought a KPA100 instead, and never 
looked back. If you've got a K2, you just can't beat the integration.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] K2 carrying case?

2008-11-11 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I'm aware of Rose Kopp's lovely soft cases for the K2. I'm looking for something 
a bit more durable. I have an unused messenger-style bag and am hoping to find 
a rubbermaid/tupperware style of box that is just a bit larger than the K2; I'm 
happy to make a foam liner to protect it inside the box, and then slip it all 
into the messenger bag, along with a key, cables, etc.


I haven't yet found the perfect box, or one that's even close; the K2 is 
apparently not shaped like most things that people want to store!


Others must have been down this path before - did you find something? Do you 
remember what style/make/model?


Thanks!

vy 73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: K2 QRP DXCC

2008-09-22 Thread Chris Kantarjiev

Dave,

Congrats on your effort. I'm at 73 countries all QRP/CW with my K2; progress has 
pretty much stalled for the past several months and I have to admit that it's 
affected my overall operating.


I can hear strong Asian stations in the (early) morning, but they can't hear me 
- that's certainly in part because of QRM at their end, and also because the 
grayline is pretty much straight up and down this time of year.


I'm going to put up a dipole that's aimed at EU - I have almost no contacts 
there so far.


There's a new, cycle 24, sunspot today, so perhaps things will pick up for the 
winter season...


73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] K2 xvtr hole dimensions?

2008-09-03 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
My K2 (s/n 3641) has the old style case, with the tranverter holes
in the top cover. I'm planning to install both the K8ZOA IF buffer and 
N0SS T-R key switch. Each of them tells me to drill a hole for the
output jack in the same place :-)

Could someone please tell me the dimensions for the new transverter
holes? It seems like I am best of mimicing that layout ... or make
another suggestion if there's something that will work better.

Thanks!

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Reminder: Countdown is on for ARS' Flight of the Bumblebees on Sunday

2008-07-25 Thread Chris Kantarjiev

Sunday, almost 200 “bee” QRP field operators will be out on the trail during the
Adventure Radio Society’s annual four-hour Flight of the Bumblebees.

Held yearly on the last Sunday of July, 2008’s is July 27. For complete details,
visit the ARS Web site at:

http://www.arsqrp.pbwiki.com

Click on Flight of the Bumblebees on the right hand side of the home page.

This is a four hour event, running from 10:00 PDT / 11:00 MDT / 12:00 CDT / 1:00
EDT to 2:00 PDT / 3:00 MDT / 4:00 CDT / 5:00 EDT. Thus, the hours of operation
accommodate all four time zones. No matter where you live, there is time for the
Bumblebees to travel to their sites, set up their stations, operate the contest,
and travel back to their cars.

Both home-based and portable operations are encouraged. Participants who want to
operate in the Bumblebee category apply to Adventure Radio Society for Bumblebee
status. ARS assigns each Bumblebee a Bee number. Bumblebees agree to walk, bike,
boat or some other self-powered means to get to their sites. The distance
traveled to the site is at the Bumblebee's discretion.

Bumblebees add /BB to their calls.

There is no limit on the number of Bumblebees. You may apply for, and receive, a
Bee number at any time, up to two days before the contest.

We look forward to seeing you in the 2008 Flight of the Bumblebees.

Russ Carpenter, AA7QU,
Chris Kantarjiev, K6DBG,
Richard Fisher, KI6SN
The Adventure Radio Society

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[Elecraft] Re: OT code practice w/MP3 and iPod?

2008-07-14 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I do this all the time, but I don't use iTunes to manage my iPod :-) The 
trick is almost certainly to convert the mp3 to AAC.


I also suggest that you find a copy of Chuck Adams K7QO code practice 
course - you can get the CD for the cost of a mailer from the FISTS 
office, or find the .iso online at various places (including my website) 
and burn your own CD. I used this material (on my iPod) to learn to head 
copy, listening while walking to/from the commuter train. It starts slow 
and builds up to 20WPM.


The ARRL stuff is also good, and it is interesting to use it to get used 
to fast speeds - I often load up the files from a single day and play 
them fastest to slowest. After listening to the 40, 35, 30 and 25 wpm 
files, 20wpm sounds slow!


73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: Optivisor?

2008-06-27 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
One accessory that most people don't seem to know about is the swing-down
loupe. I have this and love it - it's the perfect thing for very
close inspection of solder joints and PC board traces.

The only downside is that it makes changing out the binocular lenses
a bit more fiddly - but I rarely change from my #4.

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft at Dayton

2008-05-19 Thread Chris Kantarjiev K6DBG


 You can always drive a linear amp with a QRP signal, but under FCC
 rules, producing more than 480 watts out with 15W in is prohibited for
 a type-accepted amplifier (15 db gain).

Of course! Too much blood in my caffeine stream. But if there were, say, a
convenient attenuator pad that could be bypassed by a motivated amateur...

 err, why not just build up another KPA-100 and leave it with the
 KPA800?

No reason, really, aside from cost (which might pale in comparison to the
KPA800!)

Mostly, I guess, I hope that any such amp will be as well integrated with
the K2 as the K3.

73 de chris K6DBG
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3---New-firmware-tp17307418p17317662.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft at Dayton

2008-05-18 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 Finally, I lobbied Eric about looking at the KPA1500 and KPA800 amp 
 project once again and while being politely non-committal about their 
 future, I suspect that those of you harboring any interest in them, 
 should let Eric know your thoughts as he is listening right now! 

Hear! Hear! I've been slowly assembling some QRO gear to go with my
K2, and I would love to have something that is completely integrated with
the AUXBUS and works as well as the KPA100/KAT100 combination.

I'd be especially keen on a KPA800 that I could drive with just
the barefoot K2; my KPA100 is in an external cabinet. The QRO gear lives
at our vacation QTH; my main rig there is a K1 (not hooked to
the amp) and I take the K2 with me on contest weekends. I like 
being able to pack up *just* the K2.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: Portable CW paddles for K2?

2008-04-27 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
The Palm Mini paddle is a very well thought out and nicely engineered
package; one of the best features is how the mechanism is completely
protected by the case when not in use. The ability to mount it
in various ways and positions is a nice plus.

It's very adjustable and amenable to a light or heavy touch. 

The overall feel is a little soft - the arms are made of something
like PC board material and the paddles themselves have a soft surface,
so there is some give in the motion after the contacts close.

For me, the benefits of the packaging outweigh the less-than-perfect
touch - especially for backpacking. 

73 de chris K6DBG

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[Elecraft] Re: kx1 on airlines

2008-04-22 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I travel with my KX1 in a small Pelican case on a regular basis.
The radio has lithium batteries installed.  The case includes the
paddle, the banana plug adapter, antenna wire and headphones. I
have a copy of my license stuffed in the back, between the colored
liner and the clear outer case.

I would *not* check mine, for fear that it wander off. 

I usually travel with a rat's nest of stuff in my backpack, and 
am rarely bothered. I *have* learned to use small zipper lock 
bags to keep the stuff separate for my own sanity!

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: K1 comments?

2008-04-02 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I picked a K1 as the radio for my vacation QTH - in part because I 
already have a K2 and KX1 and wanted to see what the other member of the 
family is like. I had been carrying the KX1 back and forth, and got 
tired of doing that, so I bought a used K1 to leave there. (That also 
sent me down a path of craziness regarding paddles, but that's another 
story.)


I really like the little guy. At first, I found that I missed some of 
the features of the K2, but after operating casually in a couple of 
contests and working some DX, I find that it's got pretty much 
everything that's needed. Now I'm (slowly) working on the antenna 
situation there.


I have the ATU and a 40/30/20/15 board installed. I also have a board
with 80/17, but I don't use it as often as I thought I would. The ATU 
doesn't really like loading my W3EDP on 80, and only sort of works on 
40; I'll probably tack on a little extra capacitance (and eventually 
replace the W3EDP with some fan dipoles).


I have the backlight - very useful. I'm probably going to install the CW 
tuning indicator at some point. I would love a simple DSP denoiser, 
since I've gotten used to that on the K2 ...


73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: Crimped connectors

2008-04-02 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Soldered connections avoid corrosion, but can cause an overly stiff 
joint that will break from movement or vibration. Aircraft have lots of 
vibration, so they count on crimping ... and, typically, tin- or 
silver-plated wire.


Soldered connections should be supported with heatshrink to avoid early 
fatigue failure. All wiring connections, crimped or soldered, should be 
dressed to avoid strain!


Here's a post I saved from long ago:

http://www.dimebank.com/misc/soldered_connections.html

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: Selecting An Iabic Key

2008-03-28 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
There are so many to choose from ... it's hard to make a single 
recommendation, especially since you've never used one.


Since you don't have bad habits to unlearn (from, say, using a bug), I 
would recommend that, if you can, start out with a light touch and close 
spacing, which will serve you well as you build speed.


I've been trying out one of N3ZN's keys lately and am very impressed by 
the build quality and the performance for price. Certainly not cheap,
at around $200. The ZN-qrp model is small enough to tuck under the front 
of a K2 :-)


http://n3znkeys.com/ - he offers a 30-day return guarantee.

Bencher, Schurr, Kent, Begali are other names to explore. If you can, 
find a friend who has one or more to try out...


73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: voltage

2008-03-06 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Chuck NI0C wrote:

 K6DBG wrote: 
 I adjusted mine so the display voltmeter matches the measured
 voltage past the diode.
 
 That's an interesting idea; however if you ever go back to assembly 
 steps using the internal DVM, you would have to compensate for the
 offset you put in (assuming it is a pure offset and no gain factor is
 involved), or use an external DVM for those steps.  
 
 I prefer having my internal DVM reading the true voltage. 

I think you misunderstand - the adjustment is specifically to have
the display show the true voltage.

The K2 uses a voltage divider (R9, R10) into an op amp (U3B) to
determine the displayed voltage; the resistors used are only 1%,
so there is some inaccuracy in the resulting V SENSE. Changing
R10 to a trimpot allows me to set the bridge accurately.

73,
chris
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: voltage

2008-03-06 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 The stock K2 will indicate the actual voltage inside the K2,

Mine didn't. It was off by about 0.3v, which is why I made the fix...

I did *not* try to make it read the supply voltage applied at
the back of the radio.

73,
chris
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[Elecraft] Re: K3 Remote Control...

2008-03-05 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I really can't imagine why anyone would want to put a 20MHz clock
inside a sensitive HF radio...

If you want ethernet control, I suggest that you google ethernet serial
port. You'll find a handful of boxes for under $100 that have a
serial port on one end and an ethernet port on the other.

I'll be that if you buy one for yourself and one to send to Simon,
he'll have HRD talking to it and a K3 in short order :-)

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: voltage

2008-03-05 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I found this annoying, too, so I did something about it - the idea
is not original to me. I learned about it from J-F VA2VYZ.

I changed R10 to be a trimpot: a Bourns 3296W-254 25-turn trimmer. See 
a photo at 

http://www.dimebank.com/cak/k6dbg/photos/voltmeter_pot.jpg

I adjusted mine so the display voltmeter matches the measured
voltage past the diode.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Ducie ...

2008-02-27 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
All this talk of easy RTTY QSOs got me going: I rigged my K2 with
a couple of patch cords to the sound card and figured out MMTTY: I
just made my first ever RTTY QSO to VP6DX with 5W on 30M ...

I've got them QRP/CW on 80-10 and RTTY on 30. I'll keep trying for 160 but my
best antenna for that is a 40m dipole, so I rarely hear them much less
try to transmit :-)

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: ARRL CW DX

2008-02-18 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
112 Qs to 55 countries, using my K2 at 5W to a vertical and dipole. 
EU was a complete washout - I heard lots of stations but couldn't
work any, either day. But I got all the other official continents,
plus Antarctica! VP6DX on 20/17/15/10 (but they're easy from the
left coast), several new entity contacts (including PZ5WW, DC4 and
DP0GVN) and many new band-entity contacts. 

In the last two hours, the JAs showed up on 20 and I was breaking
pileups with 5W to the dipole. That was good fun. Made up for
the frustrating hours getting nowhere on 80m during the middle of the
night.

I'm always learning new ways to run my K2 better. This weekend's 
lesson was the ATT key. I had been using PRE on 20 and 15, and 
happened to click through ATT/PRE on 40. The band was noisy, so
PRE was a big mistake, but ATT seemed to quiet the noise and make
the signals pop - even though they were very quiet signals. Not
at all what I expected, but something I'll play with in the future.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: Microphone compatibility

2008-02-14 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 I did say _some_ newly licensed...
 
 Congrats on the three Elecraft rigs and 20wpm CW; your enthusiasm is to 
 be commended.  I look forward to working you.

Thanks, David, and sorry, all, for letting that rash message slip into
our oasis of civility. It was a frustrating day all around yesterday (but
that's still no excuse, just an explanation).

I look forward to working you, too! G-land has been very tough from here
so far... 

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: Microphone compatibility

2008-02-13 Thread Chris Kantarjiev


In a recent message, David G4DMP/G3KEP wrote

What we must remember, Stewart, is that the radio amateurs of today are 
a different breed from those when we took out our licences. The 
qualifications are different and some newly licensed amateurs are little 
more than CB or 'appliance' operators.


David,

Please be careful just where you swing that tar brush. I may be an 
Extra lite with less than four years on my license, and only had to 
pass a 5 WPM test, but I have built 3 Elecraft rigs, use wire antennas 
that I erected, and work 20 WPM. I've earned my share of wallpaper and 
worked good DX at QRP levels, all at the bottom of the (this) sunspot cycle.


And I'm not alone on this list.

VY 73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: Receive antennas

2008-02-02 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Here's another site for low-band receive antennas:

http://www.qsl.net/kc2tx/

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: K3/100 Kit #307 Lift Off

2008-01-29 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 Try McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) PN 91185A221 4-40 1/4 inch long 
 with a plastic knurled head 5/16 diameter and 11/64 inch high.   They 
 only come in boxes of 100, so you would have some to share.

The online catalog indicates that the package size is 25 ... and 
if you call, they are often willing to break a package! Or just find
two friends to split with...
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[Elecraft] Re: K3/100 Kit #307 Lift Off

2008-01-29 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 
 I'd be willing to pay a 10 to 15 dollar adder for knurled knobs that allow
 one to take the top of quickly and easily to show off the guts...  I'd want
 them to be relatively low profile though.

McMaster-Carr has what you want. Figure out (from the inventory) what
size and length(s) you need, and then visit www.mcmaster.com - search
for knurled screw

You *probably* want a thumb screw with shoulder, but maybe not. You
might want to put a flat washer under the head to protect the finish.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: K3: CW decoder

2008-01-19 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
My K1 is a few hours' drive away, so I can't test it, but my K2
already does Farnsworth recording. That is, when I record a message
buffer, it tracks the spacing between characters as part of
the memorization process. I just tried this with big gaps and it
works a treat.

Brett - try it on your K1 and see what happens. I bet you can come
up with something that works for you. I recorded big gaps with
the keyer set at 18 and turned it up to 30wpm and still get 
(relatively) big gaps.

73 de chris K6DBG
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RE: [Elecraft] Video of my build of K3 S/N 207 = ERROR page not found

2008-01-14 Thread Chris Kantarjiev


I'm at work, so can't reply to the list. If you try just the web server
- http://www.fist.co.uk , you get This account has exceeded it's
bandwidth quota and has been temporarily disabled.  :-)


It's easy to upload .wmv files to YouTube...

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] K1 questions

2008-01-12 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I recently purchased a K1 for use at our vacation QTH, and gave it
its first workout today during NAQP. It's not a contest rig,
but it did just fine :-)

I've got a couple of questions:

- I have two band modules: 40/30/20/15 and 80/17. Do I need to do
any recalibration when I swap? How involved is this?

- I have a KAT1, and it worked fine until I tried to use my W3EDP
on 40m. It's not really a W3EDP because I feed it remotely with
coax and a BL2 balun. I have the 'output' menu item set to 5W. If I 
use the 4:1 setting on the BL2, the KAt1 would get down to about
1.7:1, but the max output was 3.8W (according to the display). 
If I use the 1:1 setting, it would only get down to 3.6:1 or so,
but was happy to send 5W out. Huh?

73 de chris K6DBG


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[Elecraft] Re: dipole antenna efficiency

2008-01-04 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
The *problem* with ladder line fed antennas is that it's very
difficult to remove common mode noise from them. If that's
not an issue for you ... fine. But if it is...

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: Which Heil Prosets should we carry?

2007-12-29 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 Shouting into the mic might also mean the side tone could be adjusted 
 differently.  The higher the attenuation of your own voice back into your 
 ear becomes, the more the brain tells you to raise your voice so you can 
 hear yourself.  The telephone people worked this out 100 years ago.

Indeed. Unfortunately, some rigs don't provide sidetone (like the K2/KSB2!)

 Interesting thot. I wonder if the lack of side tone is partially responsible
 for many cell phone users to raise their voices. I don't recall hearing most
 folks talk so loudly into desk phones.

You're not the first to wonder this ... it's certainly a contributing
factor. I don't know if anyone has done an actual study...

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: OT: Source for fiberglass bulkhead cabinet

2007-12-13 Thread Chris Kantarjiev

Can someone tell me where to get a 12X12 X5 fiberglass bulkhead cabinet for
mounting to the outside wall for bringing in coax, cables etc and possibly
has a copper or aluminum plate for mounting lightening protection devices
just before entering the shack wall?   Apparently I'm not using the correct
search parameters.


You want to look for NEMA Enclosures. There are various types/ratings 
that indicate just how tough/weatherproof they are. You probably want 
NEMA 3 or NEMA 4.


Finding them is one thing; finding them mail order is another. 
McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com) has a moderate selection of 
standard sizes; I wanted a smaller one for an antenna lead in and had a 
very difficult time finding a vendor that would sell to me.



Is there such a beast made specifically for Ham radio type applications?


Not that I know of.

73 de chris K6DBG

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[Elecraft] [K3] USB host development kit

2007-12-05 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I just ran across this, and it made me think of the folks who want to 
save configs on a memory stick:


http://www.compsys1.com/html/usb_host_kit.html

It's crude, but it *appears* to have the pieces that will take RS232 
control lines and allow you to read/write on a thumb drive. Might be an 
easy way to get very specific USB connectivity in a K3...


73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: K2 CW Interface

2007-12-04 Thread Chris Kantarjiev

I soldered up the cable to connect the K2 to the computer for logging
and control.  What do I need to do from here to get the computer/rig to
send CW during a contest?  I am currently using N3FJP's programs, and I
plan on moving to N1MM.  I get the impression I need a separate cable
between the LPT port and the paddle input?


That's right. Details can be found various places, notably

http://pages.cthome.net/n1mm/html/English/Interfacing.htm

I went through this exercise last summer; if you look at

http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg38016.html

you'll find the beginning of the thread I started then (not terribly 
interesting in itself, but has a few links of use).


I don't care to switch INP when using various input devices, so I always 
wire tip and ring together on things like this (and straight keys and 
bugs). I made up a little box that has several jacks in parallel, going 
to the required diodes and a paddle input - so I can (and do) have the 
paddles, SK and computer keying all hooked up at the same time.


(See http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg38462.html)

(I know that some folks have reported problems with the K2's sensing of 
tip/ring for non-paddle keying, but I've never experienced it.)


73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: [K2] KBT2 Battery charger/power supply recommendation

2007-11-18 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I highly recommend that you follow Don W3FPR's advice at

http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com/index.htm

and wire an additional jack. This is a great way to go - now when
I operate portable holiday style, I drag a small smart charger
with me to keep the battery topped up.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?

2007-11-18 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Even though I built and installed a KSB2 a year or so ago, this week
is the first time I've actually used it. I have to admit, phone
operation is sort of fun, though I'm not likely to spend much time
outside contests doing it - altogether too much like a telephone.

One question: there doesn't seem to be any sidetone in the headset
when I transmit. I made some recordings of my audio output (to
play back for W7GH, who was also testing out his KSB2), and we
both noticed that there is some ... murmuring when I'm transmitting,
but nothing intelligible.

I thought the lack of sidetone would be an issue, but it doesn't
seem to be. Still, I'm curious - what's the murmuring? Should there
be audible sidetone?

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: comparison of K1 and KX1

2007-11-16 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Chris,

I started my HF career with a KX1. It was perfect - right price point,
good volume for my temporary shack. But as I got more proficient,
I found it lacking - the tuner is good but not great, the audio is
pretty quiet, the filter is effective but simplistic.

It's also not really great for a mostly-permanent desktop operation,
which is what I was trying to build - you might want a small
tilt stand to be able to see it, for example.

I upgraded to a K2, which I find much much nicer for day-to-day work.
But that's not what you asked.

I recently bought a K1 for our vacation QTH. I've only had it on the
air a little bit. I think it's a better desktop radio than the KX1,
but the display is even more limited :-) 

So ... it all depends. I will continue to take my KX1 into the field
when size is an issue; I think it's a much better package than
the K1 for that purpose. But at a desk, I'd rather use the K1.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: Small power supply for a K1

2007-11-12 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I found an old laptop 'brick' supply that puts out 12V - the new ones
are mostly higher than that (16 or 20v). It's very quiet and had
the correct connector already. In addition, it will take 100-240V
input...

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] N1MM and SSB and audio

2007-11-08 Thread Chris Kantarjiev

I'm going to try to operate SSB for the first time (ever!) for SS SSB.
I'm trying to puzzle out the connections between computer, headset and
K2 to make my life as easy as possible while using N1MM logging.

(I've got this SSB card, I might as well learn to use it.)

It appears that the N1MM logger will do automagic playback of canned 
audio from my computer. That obviously requires suitable cabling. I'm

making up an adapter for my headset to the 8-pin mic input -
can I y in a cable to the audio output of my laptop? Will
that be at too high a level if I just connect it to mic-in?

VY 73 de chris K6DBG

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[Elecraft] Re: [OT] Software for Learning Morse Code

2007-10-19 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I'm sure that you will receive many answers :-)

Chuck K7QO's code course is an excellent way to progress. So is
Ray G4FON's Koch Trainer, which is a software program rather
than a progressive collection of MP3s.

I used (and use) both: http://www.dimebank.com/cak/k6dbg/k6dbg_cw.html

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: K2 IF amplifier output fault

2007-10-08 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Alan,

When I was diagnosing low audio output in s/n 3641, one of the several
things I found was a leaky cap at C10. There was a small AC component
on the /AGC OFF signal that was making it through to U1 pin 2, and
that upset the entire downstream chain.

It's a stretch, but the fact that you can't get full AGC voltage
in test 8 sounds kind of familiar...

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Griffin EarJams

2007-10-08 Thread Chris Kantarjiev

My XYL came home with these last weekend:

http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/earjams/

She has small ears, and couldn't get her ipod's earbuds to stay in.
These worked out really well for her. That used up only one pair - the
other pair happen to fit the earbuds I use with my K2 (I don't have a
set of headphones that I like for radio work...)

Wow, what a difference! They're not kidding about increasing the volume
and isolation. I typically kept the AF pot between 9 and 12 o'clock; now
I rarely get it as high as 9 o'clock (in fact, the earbuds may be *too*
sensitive).

An interesting artifact of this is that at the very bottom of the AF
pot's range, there seems to be an area where I can hear very weak
signals but the atmospheric noise hasn't quite come in...

The only downside is that she needs to stand in front of me to get my
attention when I'm playing radio :-)

These might be really good for my KX1, which is always too quiet...

73 de chris K6DBG

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Re: [Elecraft] Griffin EarJams

2007-10-08 Thread Chris Kantarjiev

Bill W5WVO wrote:

Chris Kantarjiev wrote:


An interesting artifact of this is that at the very bottom of the AF
pot's range, there seems to be an area where I can hear very weak
signals but the atmospheric noise hasn't quite come in...


This is fascinating. It could be an artifact of the radio's design, 
or... Could we possibly be seeing a process here in which the dynamic 
range of the human ear/wetware is being increased by lowering the 
amplitude range of the input? Maybe mammalian ears evolved to work 
better (i.e., more discrimminatingly) at lower volume levels... This 
might make sense in evolutionary terms, when you come to think about it.


Or my ears could be broken :-)

Now that you mention it, though, it mimics my experience at louder 
volumes, where turning the AF gain *down* makes the signal stand out 
more and copy easier.


I was just really surprised to hear the volume of the noise seem to come 
up separately from the signal. And pleased to find that I could hear the 
signal with the EarJams on, and that it was completely missing with them 
off ... but I don't have a closed headphone to compare with.


All this will probably be moot in, oh, a couple of years when the 
sunspots come back :-)


73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] KPA100/KAT100 trouble

2007-09-22 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I may be having my first run-in with lightning damage.

A thunderstorm rolled through the SF Bay Area last night. I didn't
disconnect my antennas until I *saw* the first lightning flash. 

Oops, I think.

I turned on the radio later in the evening, and was getting very
high SWR indications on the KAT100, and HiCur on the K2. Hitting
TUNE caused a lot of clicking and clacking, and eventual tune to
about 1.5:1, but SWR was still high on transmit - and the indicated
power on the bargraph was lower than dialed in. This is on both
antennas - a vertical and OCF dipole - both more or less resonant.

I turned off the rig and called it a night.

This morning I pulled out my LP200 dummy load/power meter. The ATU
tunes it to 1.1:1. Power out does not change appreciably
in response to the POWER knob - if set for any value less than 10W, 
the power is about 4W; if set for values about 10W (PA on), power 
out is always about 30W. In neither case is the LED indication on
the K2 correct.

I also notice that the SWR LEDs no longer display anything when the
power is set below 10W, but indicate as expected when POWER is
above 10W.

If I put the ATU into CAL mode, which I understand removes all the
LC network, the SWR LEDs indicate 5:1 (all on), and the power out
is higher, but still doesn't respond to the POWER knob: 10W on
LOW mode, about 90W in HIGH mode.

Connected to the K2/KAT2 (with the serial cable disconnected) the K2
operates as expected (once I remember to turn the ATU back to AUTO :-)

I'm not even sure where to begin looking, but it certainly seems
that the SWR bridge might be malfunctioning.

Help?

Thanks!

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] solution to sliding paddles

2007-09-20 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 
 Anyone in the UK know where this stuff can be bought over here?

Amazon.com sells it:

http://www.amazon.com/Griptex-Wonderliner-240-Inch-Standard-White/dp/B000H7VGTK/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/002-3444193-2826424?ie=UTF8s=home-gardenqid=1190309731sr=8-1

(sorry 'bout the long URL) ... chances are that should give you enough
detail to get it there, perhaps from the UK amazon.

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Accessory Connector

2007-08-29 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 The JA folks who gave us DIN connectors

This made me chuckle. DIN stands for Deutsche Industrie Norm ... it
was the DL folks who created them :-) The original 3- and 5-pin
connectors have been used on audio gear since the 50s, and have
*always* been a nuisance to solder :-)

The D series of connectors started as an alternative to the
large round amphenol series. I first saw them on gear that was
built in the 60s for the avionics/aerospace industry - in particular,
on the guidance computer for the Minuteman I series of missiles.

Yes, you need some special tooling to do them right. At least, today,
you can get solder cup versions instead of having to crimp every pin.
If you've built a K2, you have the tools and skills to make these 
connectors work.

I don't have a problem with this choice. If you don't have the tooling
to make up a pigtail to your connector family of choice, I'm sure
you can find someone on this list who will.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] K2 keyer autodetect mode

2007-08-16 Thread Chris Kantarjiev

I've always thought this was pretty neat - I could pull out the
paddles and plug in the (suitably wired) straight key and not have
to mess with the menu settings. It occurred to me that I could
even have both plugged in at the same time and go back and forth
(though my desk space doesn't really provide for this).

When I started exploring computer keying, it was clear that I needed
something to allow me to have both the computer cable and paddles
plugged in at the same time. Gee, while I was at it, wouldn't it
be nice to be able to leave computer, bug, straight key *and*
paddles plugged in at once?

Sure. That would be easy; the K2 manual basically gives the required
hits. But making it small was the problem (see above comments
about desk space).

After several trial orders of parts, I discovered that you can make
it pretty darn small. Four Switchcraft 35RAPC2BH3 horizontal mini
stereo jacks can be crammed into a Serpac C-4 enclosure. Just.  The
terminal spacings aren't quite right for .100 perfboard, so I wired
it up ugly style, using magnet wire for the bus connections. Two
diodes, a few 1/4 holes, a 6 stereo extension cord pigtail and a
grommet and ... just what I wanted!

Thought I'd pass this along, mostly to get the part numbers
into the archives. 

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2

2007-08-15 Thread Chris Kantarjiev

 Tools I found useful:
   - Magnifying ring light

I far prefer an Optivisor. It makes it easy to look at the item
in question with or without magnification, depending on distance -
I can position the workpiece and the instruction manual such that
I can shift my view from one to the other without big head 
movements.

In addition, the swing down extra magnifier is perfect for inspecting
the quality of my soldering after every round - I do this in stages,
rather than trying to inspect the entire board at the end.

73 de chris K6DBG
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RE: [Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone/[EMAIL PROTECTED]

2007-08-15 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 
 Does anyone know what the signal I am hearing on 14.030 MHz actually is?

100Bt ethernet hardware puts out birdies around this frequency (I have
several such birdies in the house, from 14.028 up to 14.031).

It carries quite far; when we last had the entire house's power off (at
the meter), I still heard them - presumably from one or more of my neighbors.

73 de chris K6DBG
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RE: [Elecraft] USB Adapter for K2?

2007-08-07 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
There are many USB adapters out there, some good, some bad. I've tried
a bunch. Now I buy the one that Larry N7SUJ sells at

http://www.pfranc.com/usb/usb.shtml

They work with every bit of gear I've tried them on.

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Keying current?

2007-08-03 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Thanks for all the responses. I got this working pretty quickly yesterday.
It took two iterations ... first time, I made the cable a bit too
short in my effort to keep my desk neat - and had some of the connections
off-by-one on the DB25 :-) The computer would key the radio but never
unkey.

I figured that out and added a foot of cable and N1MM logger is happy...

73 de chris K6DBG

P.S. http://pages.cthome.net/n1mm/html/English/Interfacing.htm has schematics,
among other places. And Tom N0SS's board looks very nice, but I
wanted it today. I also wanted to put the isolation diodes in a
(planned) box that will take computer, paddle and straight key...
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[Elecraft] K2 Keying current?

2007-08-02 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I'd like to build a parallel port keying cable for my K2. Lots of schematics
on the web, all calling for a 2N. I find that I don't have any of
those in my junk box right now (horrors!) but have lots of 2N4124;
the big difference is that the 4124 is limited to 200mA collector current.

It seems like this should be enough, since the keyer contact goes 
straight to the MCU ... right?

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] K6DGW - Flight of the Bumblebees

2007-07-30 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Total QSO's: 14
Bumblebee QSO's: 8
Score: you mean we're keeping score?
RIG: KX1 #1048
ANT: 31' wire w/ 17' counterpoise
PWR: solar panel feeding 7Ah gel cell
QTH: Fresno Dome, Madera County, CA grid DM07fk, 7,000 ft AMSL
WX: Clear, sunny, light breeze, about 80F
OPR TIME: 3h 
CONDX: worse than last year

Last year was my first time as a Bee. I wanted to operate from a high
QTH near our vacation cabin south of Yosemite, but we had company with
us. So I walked all of 30 yards down the yard to where I could reach
our big cedar tree and threw a wire up. 

I didn't do very well. We're in a valley (they don't call the area
Cedar Valley for nothing), so we have about -1000' HAAT in pretty
much every direction except south. Post-contest reports indicated that
my signal was getting out as far as AZ, but the responses weren't
making it in... 

I was determined to find a better place this year :-)

When my patient XYL heard about my plans to operate from Fresno
Dome (about 7000' in southern Yosemite), she allowed as how it
would be nice to make it a picnic. So we packed for a somewhat
higher comfort level than I would have myself (i.e., we took camp
chairs and a cooler of adult beverages and sandwiches!) and headed
out at our usual Sunday pace. It's a 45 minute drive up rutted
Forest Service roads, followed by an easy 15 minute hike. We arrived
at the trailhead just before 11am (1800z), an hour after the contest
started. It was about 20 degF cooler than at our cabin, which was
a welcome change.

A few tosses got my 31' wire high enough into a Jeffrey pine. I set
up in the sun so the solar panel had something to work with, dug
out my earphones and hooked up the KX1's paddle. Quickly heard and
worked 3 or 4 other /BB stations on 20 ... and then all I heard was
those four stations! Well, I heard them working other people, but
I couldn't hear who they were working.

I did hear one KL7, but so faintly that I never got the complete call,
and he certainly didn't hear me. I heard Randy K7TQ well, but he didn't
hear me, either.

The second hour was almost a complete goose-egg. I tried setting up the
PAC-12. It gave me a couple dB better receive, but wasn't radiating at
all - the ground there is sandy and dry where it isn't rock, and
that's pretty much the performance I expected. I really have to make up some
tuned radials for that thing.

I moved my chair to reorient the wire by 90 degrees and got a few
more dB signal (which meant that I was getting about S3 signals now!)
and finally worked NG7C.

Time to switch to 40m. Got a run of 5 contacts, wow, this is getting
exciting! But that was about all...

Total of 14 Qs, 8 BBs, 5 states. Better than last year's 12 Qs in worse
conditions, so I guess that's progress. It was a beautiful QTH with
nice views of the Central Valley, but blocked to the north and somewhat
to the east ... I'll try somewhere else next year.

And it's time to go back to experimenting with other wire antennas,
like a W3EDP or OCF dipole. I think they're a little more fussy to
set up (I have to get better at throwing, too) but should give
better results!

73 de chris K6DBG
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RE: [Elecraft] K2/K3 size

2007-07-28 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 I wasn't going to contribute to the noise, but with people questioning the
 relative importance of size I wanted to add one voice in favor of small.
 
 I know I'm the only one to whom size matters.

This last was probably a typo, no? :-)

I'll echo your sentiments. My shack is the small back corner of
my desk that remains after my work and the house expenses and
general paperwork cover the rest, in a home office shared with
my very patient XYL. The K2 and Schurr Profi fit perfectly;
the power supply is down on the floor in a not very inconvenient
spot. I just rearranged things to make room for an EC2 with KPA/KAT100,
and I have to tell you, it was a challenge...

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K2/K3 size

2007-07-28 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 
 What can I say? We pored over many ancient texts on archaeology, 
 architecture, alchemistry, and the Dynamics of Mojo. We consulted 
 Ouija. We drank strong northern California herbal teas and stout 
 Microbrew. Under the circumstances, the evidence was irrefutable: only 
 an enclosure exactly 4H, 10 1/2W, and 10D would optimize the index 
 of cognitive gestalt for a multipurpose amateur transceiver.

I want *that* on a tshirt! :-)

73,
chris
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RE: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug

2007-07-26 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I got the bug bug about a year ago, and found a 1923 Vibroplex in decent
shape. Yeah, the dot rate is way too fast to learn with. After exploring
many options for slowing it, I went to a local hobby shop and got a bit
of brass tubing that has an ID that is a slip fit over the rod. About 6
did it for me - slows the dots right down and still allows me to do
some adjusting.

73 de chris K6DBG

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[Elecraft] Re: RX~TX Pops above 11w with KPA installed.

2007-07-24 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Don,

Thanks for the pointer. I started hearing pops a while back, even
before my recent KPA installation, and hadn't started to track them
down. I never seem to change only one thing at a time ... but they
definitely started around the time I installed the DSP!

73,
chris
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Re: [Elecraft] Simple K2 Question

2007-07-18 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I just dropped a line to PowerWerx to ask if they'd add a K2-suitable
cord to their line of pre-made cables.

http://www.powerwerx.com/category.asp?CtgID=1389

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] Proper K2 power cord?

2007-07-16 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 Being concentrated heating points the terminals are usually where fires get  
 started when they are dissipating too much heat. 40 watts is about what the  
 average soldering iron provides (doing soldering jobs in ham rigs), so you 
 could  conceivably desolder a poorly done terminal if it has as little as 0.1 
 Oh
 m  
 resistance.
  

This is, in fact, a known problem on some HP laptops; the power connectors
desolder themselves at the PC board. I've fixed several.


73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: K2 is still a good choice

2007-07-13 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I agree, and am putting my toy budget into adding KPA100/KAT100
to my K2! But while listening to the Night of Nights last evening,
I was really wishing for a general coverage receiver; I could only
hear the stations that were in the 6400kHz range. I don't have
one, and don't really have a place to put one.

*That* might push me over the K3 edge, eventually. I'm in no great rush.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: radios on networks

2007-07-12 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
The first problem I can think of regarding Ethernet use in this
case is all the birdies! I've got strong birdies at home around 14.030
from various 100Bt devices in my and my neighbor's house...

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] battery backup, etc. for QRO K2?

2007-07-12 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Thanks to all who responded - I now officially have too many options!

I didn't know about the RV converter solution; I like that idea
and will keep my eye out for a reasonably priced unit for a real
setup for my shack.

I'm leaning toward getting a normal 30A supply in the short term, since
I don't have a supply that will put out that much current, and I'm
sure it will be useful in the long term.

I *might* try cobbling something together with a smart charger,
battery and PowerPole panel; I made up such a setup for one of my
APRS installations, where the PP panel has two inputs, each fused:
one for the battery, one for the charger. It would be interesting
to see how well such a little charger can keep up with my 
(typically low duty cycle) usage pattern...

(And Don, I can see that I'll be drilling a hole in my K2's case soon!)

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] battery backup, etc. for QRO K2?

2007-07-11 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I've been running a QRP K2 for about 18 months now. It has the
KBT2, and I've been powering the home station with a 10A linear
PS that's adjusted to 14.2V, to keep the internal gelcell happy.

Now I'm going to add a KPA100/KAT100 in an EC2 (K2 twins!) and
have to upgrade my power setup. My current thinking is to use
the Alinco DM-330 switching PS for space reasons (my shack
shares space with my office :-) 

Since this will require an upgrade in my PowerPole distribution
setup, and because the linear supply will go back out the bench
(leaving some space on the floor), I'm thinking about battery
backup, too. I know that the RigRunner folks make a couple
of battery backup devices 

http://www.powerwerx.com/category.asp?CtgID=3580

and I have to admit that I'm tempted to buy instead of build. 

But I'd like to understand the tradeoffs here. I want to keep
the system voltage high enough to keep the KBT2's battery happy.
I suppose that I could run the system from a large battery and just
trickle/float the battery from a smaller supply ... but that
seems a lot more complicated (and harder to keep the voltage
up for the KBT2). 

What have other people set up along these lines? What website
should I be visiting? Is the super powergate really worth 
double the price? :-)

73 de chris K6DBG

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Re: [Elecraft] Signing /QRP

2007-06-13 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 Yes.  And, this is the FISTS 10th anniversary this year.  To celebrate 
 FISTS is offering the 20/20 award.

Too bad there don't seem to be many (active) FISTS west of the Rockies.
In these times of poor condx, I feel lucky to have finally amassed
100 points while running QRP (all I've got)... the 20/20 award
appears out of reach.

Oh well, I'm still having fun!

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] Pelican case size for KX-1?

2007-06-12 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I used the 1060, with no foam on the bottom. The KX1 is a pretty
robust little box already; the Pelican foam insert holds it
very securely, and there's little chance of the encoder knob 
hitting the top cover.

My setup is much like N2HTT's:

http://www.n2htt.net/KX1/

Except that I use 26g teflon-coated wire, which bundles up a lot
smaller.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[OT] Re: [Elecraft] English

2007-06-08 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Buckeye is an Ohio term ... though I've no idea how much
farther it may have spread.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: Colored Cases

2007-06-06 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
In the early days of the Macintosh, when the form factor was still
unusual in itself, it was faily common for folks to redecorate
them even further. I know that there were a few small businesses
launced to do custom paint jobs, but none of them seem to have
survived long enough to still be visible to Google...

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] Re: Suggestions for KDSP2 Firmware Revisions

2007-06-06 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I'm a new, and quite inexperienced KDSP2 user - mostly I got it
for the denoiser, and have learned the two-button sequence that
cycles it.

I would heartily second the suggestion that there be a fifth position
in the AFIL cycle, that being bypass.

And while we're at it, I think that it would make a lot of sense
for the clock to be a top level state in the DISPLAY cycle, too!

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Message Board?

2007-06-04 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 
 For the list to change format, Elecraft would just have to do it.

And they have repeatedly said that they won't ... most recently 
about a month ago.

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] which do you prefer?

2007-06-02 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I asked a similar question a few months back - I was mostly interested
in help digging out weak signals. Responses pointed overwhelmingly
at the KDSP2, so I built one. I haven't played with the filter
settings much at all, but I *love* the denoiser. It's exactly what
I was looking for, most of the time. 

That is, sometimes the signal is so weak that software really
can't distinguish it from noise :-)

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] Sony MDR series headphones for KX1

2007-05-31 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I had a set of the first gen Bose noise cancelling headphones and flew
many many miles with them. They were a godsend ... but the bulk 
made them a nuisance.

About two years ago, I went to sealed in-ear buds. These aren't
active noise cancelling, but instead make an excellent seal
in the ear canal and put the driver beyond the seal. Mine are
Etymotics 6i, which were specifically aimed at the iPod and other
MP3 players that don't have a lot of drive. They coil up into a
padded envelope that's 2 x 2 - way better than any cans.

They isolate well enough that I won't exercise outside with them :-)

I don't use these in my shack at home, but have been very
happy with them in the field (I often operate near a 
small waterfall). 

Shure and Bose also make this kind of earbud; reviews and prices
are all up and down the range. I've only used these and am happy
with the price/performance tradeoff. 

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] harsh output note?

2007-05-29 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I just had occasion to listen to my K2 with another receiver (my KX1) for
the first time in a long time. The received note is much ... harsher
than I'd expect. There seems to be a harmonic an octave or so down from
the main carrier, so there's a fairly complex tone coming across
rather than pure sine.

I don't often listen to my output, probably poor practice on my part.
The last time I did, it sounded better than this. With the radios reversed,
that is sending on the KX1 and listening on the K2, the KX1 sounds much 
better/purer.

The main thing I've done recently is add the key shaping mod...
which led to some power out problems that I haven't dug into yet
(the power bounces more than I'd expect, and it's hard to get exactly
5w out on the RF meter).

Should I be concerned about this? How do I go about diagnosing?

Thanks!

73 de chris K6DBG
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RE: [Elecraft] OT: Routing coax near CAT5

2007-05-27 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
If you've got 100Mbps Ethernet in your house, you're probably already
hearing noise around 14.031, unless your antenna is far, far away
from your networking equipment. It's not just the cables, but also
the routers and interface cards that seem to spew this stuff!

For a nice discussion of common mode currents and what to do about
them, I like the paper by Chuck W1HIS at 

http://www.yccc.org/Articles/W1HIS/CommonModeChokesW1HIS2006Apr06.pdf

Fair-rite makes a snap-on ferrite, p/n 0443164151, which snaps 
comfortably over three turns of RG-8X. I use two of them to
make a choke at the point where my coax enters the house through
a window, as well as a coil-wound balun/choke at the base of
my vertical. This seems to handle the common mode problems well
(but my vertical still picks up all kinds of RF from the neighborhood!)

DXEngineering has similar snap-on ferrites in various sizes, too.

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Linear Amplifiers

2007-05-26 Thread Chris Kantarjiev

 I have searched the reflector for information regarding the status
 of the Elecraft linear amplifiers without any responsive hits.

I seem to recall that, as part of the K3 announcement, Wayne said that
they had been pushed back in an effort to get the K3 into production.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] G/K6DBG/P

2007-05-07 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Not to derail the K3 discussions, but :-)

I'm in Manchester for the week, and brought my KX1 along. If someone
reading this list is nearby, I'd love to get together for a pint or
get suggestions for some place I can throw a wire into a tree without
getting arrested...

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] BNC's instead of SO-239's

2007-04-21 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
*That* is where I saw them! Thanks for tickling my memory. I'm building
an HFPacker amp, which has a BNC in and SO-239 out. I hate SO-239s
(probably because I started making my own cables for VHF/UHF, and
my Elmer railed against them), and was going to switch
this to an N. But all my portable antennas use BNCs, which meant
I would have an adapter on this, permanently. 

I'm sure that the reason for using a different connector type is 
to (help) avoid confusion between input and output. I'm just not 
sure I care.

As far as crimping ... I saved this post

http://www.dimebank.com/misc/soldered_connections.html

a long time back. For power and low-voltage signal connections, 
I usually use a crimping tool and then solder, mostly because I
don't have a ratcheting tool. I have the West Mountain tool for
PowerPoles, but I usually solder there, too, to resist corrosion
at the exposed end (or so I tell myself).

I am more inclined to solder RF connections, mostly because that's
how I learned and that's what I've got in stock. There are some
connections (female BNC to RG-174 comes to mind) that seem to only
exist in crimp, so I have a couple of crimping tools, too...

Belt  suspenders, I guess.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] power control post K2KEYMDKT

2007-04-05 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
My KDSP2 arrived late last week, and as I read the instructions
I realized that I really wanted to upgrade my firmware (to get
to the quick-access keys for turning the denoiser off/on). And
since I was doing that, I should also install the keying 
bandwidth mod kit to be a good citizen of the airwaves. I
ordered on Saturday, it arrived Tuesday, I did installations today.

Changing the firmware was easy; I had written everything down but
ended up not needing to re-enter anything (I went from 2.03d to 2.04P).
That was a pleasant surprise.

Then I installed the mod kit. Easy enough. I momentarily thought of
jumping straight to the DSP install, but realized I should test first...

Hmm. Well, that's odd. I hooked up my NorCal dummy load so I could
do some accurate measuring. First off, the KAT2 will only get it
to 1.2:1 !  I know it's not perfectly 50 ohm, so perhaps that's
why.

I set the ATU to CALP, the RF Out control to 5.0, and press TUNE.
I get, pretty reliably, 6 bars on the display. If I turn 
the POWER down slightly, the bar graph drops to 4 bars.
I can't get 5 bars.

I dropped Don a line at this point, wondering if perhaps I had
disturbed the settings on the KAT2 while disassembling. He didn't
think so, and was suspicious of my dummy load. He suggested looking
at it with an antenna analyzer.

That was an eye-opener. The NorCal SMT dummy load might be a good
construction project, but it's not a very good load! I couldn't
find a band where it was pure resistive. That's really too bad,
since the detector is so handy. 

I have two other loads; one is a nice flat R=50 X=0 across 20/30/40,
and the other is a simple detector built into a PL-259 with some
resistors. It's R=49, X=0, and can stand 5W for a little while.

I used them to reset the null and reset the wattmeter on the KAT2. 

But still ... I can't get the power out to be 5W. I set POWER to 5.0
and get 6.0 or 6.1. If I use CAL POUT and tweaklize POWER, the display
jumps from 3.5 to 6.0 with pretty much nothing in between.

This just doesn't seem right. I checked all my connections (I think)
and don't see anything wrong. Suggestions would be most welcome ... I
want to get my full QRP gallon without cheating :-)

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] upgrading firmware

2007-04-04 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Installing KDSP2 has encouraged me to finally upgrade my firmware and IOC.
That means that I have to write down everything that might get destroyed...
but I don't see a good list of just what that might be!

Suggestion to Elecraft: please add a fill-in-the-blanks table to 
the firmware instructions, to encourage owners to track down all the 
values.

Question for everyone - is there such a table already out there? I wrote
down all the top level menu settings and went through CAL FIL for
four modes - CW, LSB, USB, CW REV - four filters each with two settings.

Anything else?

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] carry cases

2007-04-02 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I was in The Container Store yesterday, and was surprised to see
a nice variety of blow-molded double-wall plastic cases. They seem 
pretty nice, there's cut-to-fit foam available, and at a decent price.
The largest would certainly hold a K2 and some goodies...

No locks, not water tight, so not really up to Pelican standards, but
if you can deal with something a little less sturdy, these might
do the job.

http://www.containerstore.com/browse/Product.jhtml?CATID=231PRODID=61536

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?

2007-03-30 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Thanks for all the comments. I ordered a KDSP2 (and received notice that
it has shipped) and expect to have it in my K2 in time for my birthday
next weekend :-)

The discussion also seems to have pushed me over the edge on finally
investigating small loop antennas. The prospect of putting any
sort of rotating antenna outside is still difficult with my shack
arrangement (well, controlling an outside antenna from the inside,
that is), but I can see myself doing some experiments out at the
feed through...

I'll report back.

73 de chris K6DBG

P.S. Thanks for the reminder of using a wide Xfil and the filter
between my ears. It definitely helps.
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[Elecraft] DSP and CW?

2007-03-29 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Does this combination make sense? I operate 100% CW. These days, I seem
to be chasing a lot of very weak signals with questionable readability.
My vertical isn't the quietest of antennas (they never are) and my
neighborhood has a fair amount of QRM on 40m during real people hours.

For example, this morning I was trying to get KH2/JR4GPA. Copying his
sign was very tough, but I finally got it and confirmed it. I called
a couple of times but realized that I wouldn't recognize my call even
if he returned it! Just on the egde of ESP.

So ... would AF or DSP help me in this situation? The noise blanker
doesn't seem to do much good for the noise sources my neighbors provide.

Thanks!

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?

2007-03-29 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
  So ... would AF or DSP help me in this situation? The noise blanker
  doesn't seem to do much good for the noise sources my neighbors provide.
 
 You will get some different answers on this!

That's why I asked :-)

My narrowest crystal filter is 0.20 and is plenty narrow for
isolating signals from noise. As you say, the pitch sometimes gets a
little confused, and the signal reduced, so I don't find it useful
for really weak signals. I'm not really interested in reducing 
the bandwidth further.

In this particular case, the noise level was low enough that I had 
no activity on my S meter ... from the station or the noise :-) 
What I'm trying to discern is if the DSP will help cut some of
the broad spectrum QRN/QRM that I hear around here.

(I'm also happy to hear from KAF2 fans, especially since it's cheaper!)

I admit that I forgot to try a wider filter (I was using 0.40) to
see if I could hear Guam more clearly. I know that trick and sometimes
it works for me.

Later, when people woke up, I was getting S3 QRM and there was no
hope of hearing really weak signals. That's an entirely different thing!

73,
chris
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Re: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?

2007-03-29 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 As it has been mentioned, perhaps the best solution to your noise 
 situation is to use a separate receiving antenna such as a rotating loop 
 (assuming something like a beverage is not feasible).

Yes, but. I have a vertical because I am antenna limited on my sub-1/8 acre
suburban Palo Alto lot :-)  No room for a beverage, and I think I'd
be lynched if I tried to put up a rotatable loop!

Everything's a compromise...

73,
chris
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 paddle fix?

2007-03-21 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I don't have this problem with my KX1, but if I ever develop it, 
I suspect that the first thing I'll try is a nylon or fiber washer
under the thumbscrew. This is a reasonable attempt at a non-marking
lockwasher... and the next thing is to try an extra thin flat
washer (made from shim stock) plus a conventional lockwasher.
The flat washer will protect the aluminum.

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzer

2007-03-14 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
The 259 is a fine unit. When I tuned up my Hustler, I borrowed one from
a local ham, rather than buying one. I also borrowed one of the little
Autek VA1 units, and I used them both. They got about the same results. I like
the 259's knobs and such better than the Autek, but the Autek gave
slightly more information (sign on the impedance). It also fits in 
your pocket and doesn't eat batteries as quickly as the MFJ does.

A few months later, I ended up buying an MFJ 269, to do some 
of my own experiments. I've been perfectly happy with it; it has
some problems, but I think every analyzer under $1K has problems.

I suggest that you try to borrow one before buying!

73 de chris K6DBG

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzer Redux

2007-03-14 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
 
 The Tenna Dipper looks too good to pass up.  

It's a nice little unit - I have one, too. The thing to realize is that
it is designed to match a 50 ohm resistive load, *and nothing else*.

Your Hustler is not that - no vertical is. 

(BTW, I'm curious about the 17m addition you got - I have a 6BTV and
wouldn't mind if it had 17m!)

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] AGC Circuit Affecting IF Signal?

2007-03-06 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Darrell,

This is a shot in the dark, but when I was tracking down a problem
with low audio on my K2, I found that C10 in the AGC circuit was leaky,
allowing some signal to appear at U1 pin 2, and causing all kinds
of oddities when AGC was turned on. 

73 de chris K6DBG
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