[Elecraft] SP-3 Speakers SOLD

[Steve Ellington]

They're gone.
Thanks to the multitude who replied!
N4LQ
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[Elecraft] FS: SP-3 Elecraft Speakers

[Steve Ellington]

I have a pair of SP-3 speakers for sale.

Your K3 / K3s deserves the best and these speakers were designed by Dr.
Bruce Edgar to provide proper audio reproduction for voice and cw
communication.
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/sp3_1a.jpg
They are in perfect condition except for one tiny scratch on the top toward
the rear on one speaker.

These sell new for $180 each!
I'm asking only $199.95 for the pair! You add shipping.
PayPal Please

Steve N4LQ
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[Elecraft] P3 with SVGA SOLD

[Steve Ellington]

The P3 I listed here is now sold.
73 to all.
Steve N4LQ
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[Elecraft] FS: P3 with SVGA 6mo. old

[Steve Ellington]

Perfect P3 Panadapter for the K3/K3s complete with optional SVGA card.
I have sold my K3S. I used this with a 29" monitor and it was awesome.
This is only 6 months old. New price from Elecraft is $1070.00 for both.
I am asking only $750 + shipping for both the P3 and the SVGA adptr.
All cables and manual included of course.
After using a panadapter you will never be satisfied without one. You have
no idea how many signals you miss by tuning blind!
PayPal accepted. Offers entertained.

Steve n4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] headphone impedance

[Steve Ellington]

I have a pair too. They are indeed loud and are 8 ohm impedance . I like
them for cw however they get uncomfortable after a while. I prefer "around
the ear" types vs. "on the ear".
Steve N4LQ

On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 4:19 PM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO <
k2vco@gmail.com> wrote:

> I recently started using an old set of Kenwood HS-5 phones (8 ohm) after
> my cat chewed through the cord on my nice hi-fi phones. I noticed that the
> audio was much louder, I presume a result of the lower impedance. I'm even
> thinking about adding some resistance in series, because the audio gain is
> never past 9 o'clock, even with CONFIG AFG set to LOW.
>
> The Kenwood phones also seem to have a much narrower frequency response
> than 'good' ones. Personally I like this.
>
> 73,
> Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
> Rehovot, Israel
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
>
>
> On 28 Dec 2015 22:36, W2RU - Bud Hippisley wrote:
>
>> Perhaps this will help:
>>
>> Look up the specs on a good home audio amplifier — say, QSC or Crown.
>> You’ll find something called “damping factor”, and it’s often 50 or
>> more.  Roughly speaking, it’s the ratio of the (loudspeaker) load
>> impedance to the internal (source) impedance of the audio amplifier.
>> So modern semi-pro and stereophile audio amplifiers are “grossly out
>> of specs”, as you put it.
>>
>> I have a legacy, hernia-inducing McIntosh power amplifier,
>> circa-1960s, with output transformers and three taps — for 4-, 8-,
>> and 16-ohm loudspeaker loads.  Nothing I’ve owned since then uses
>> output transformers or matched loads.  Most audio amplifier designs
>> these days are voltage followers.  Most manufacturers don’t attempt
>> to match source impedance to load impedance.  Highly damped output
>> stages are “good” things to have.
>>
>> Yes, it’s true that voltage-follower amplifiers deliver more power to
>> low-impedance loads than to high-impedance loads.  But if I were to
>> follow your line of reasoning to its logical conclusion in the home
>> audio arena, I would conclude that 4-ohm speaker systems are
>> sonically superior to 16-ohm speaker systems simply because they
>> require more output power from the audio amplifier to play my music
>> collection.
>>
>> Does that seem like a reasonable way to choose your stereo system
>> loudspeakers?  Or headphones for your K3?
>>
>> If your 100-ohm (or higher) headphones can’t provide reasonable
>> levels of undistorted sound pressure at your ears when your K3 or K3S
>> audio gain control is at, say, 9 or 10 o’clock, perhaps it’s time to
>> buy a new pair of “cans”.  That’s certainly gotta be cheaper than
>> reverting to a 75A-4 with its audio output transformer and 500-ohm
>> tap.
>>
>> Bud, W2RU
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] headphone impedance

[Steve Ellington]

No problem...Just grossly out of specs.
Whatever happenshappens
73

Steve N4LQ

On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 2:53 PM, W2RU - Bud Hippisley <w...@frontiernet.net>
wrote:

> What am I missing?
>
> I use 600-ohm stereo headphones plugged directly into the front panel jack
> of my K3S.
>
> I run the Audio Gain control at 9 o’clock — roughly a 25% rotation toward
> full volume.
>
> I have more than enough audio for my elderly ears, and when I pull the
> headphone plug out of the jack, my speaker audio is at a comparable level.
>
> What is the non-problem with high-impedance phones that you guys are
> trying to solve?
>
> Bud, W2RU
>
> > On Dec 28, 2015, at 1:59 09PM, Steve Ellington <steven...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > K3  uses the.
> >
> > LM4811  Headphone Amplifier
> >
> > Texas Instruments Specs for output Z
> >
> > RL = 16Ω 105 mW
> > RL = 32Ω 70 mW
> >
> > At 60 ohms the output power drops to 20 mw. Per their graphs.
> >
> > 300 ohms is not even considered.
> >
> > Amplifier gain control is done digitally within the chip. With such a
> high
> > Z load, gain would likely need increasing.
> > The results of doing so are unknown. Consider pop, click, white noise
> etc.
> >
> > Also consider what happens when switching from headphones to speaker when
> > the AF Gain control is turned up high. Blasting?
> >
> > I suggest sticking within the 16 to 32 ohm range.
> >
> > Steve N4LQ
> >
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] headphone impedance

[Steve Ellington]

K3  uses the.

LM4811  Headphone Amplifier

Texas Instruments Specs for output Z

RL = 16Ω 105 mW
RL = 32Ω 70 mW

At 60 ohms the output power drops to 20 mw. Per their graphs.

300 ohms is not even considered.

Amplifier gain control is done digitally within the chip. With such a high
Z load, gain would likely need increasing.
The results of doing so are unknown. Consider pop, click, white noise etc.

Also consider what happens when switching from headphones to speaker when
the AF Gain control is turned up high. Blasting?

I suggest sticking within the 16 to 32 ohm range.

Steve N4LQ



On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 1:16 PM, Jim Brown 
wrote:

> On Mon,12/28/2015 10:08 AM, Barry N1EU wrote:
>
>> I believe this also means that the K3 headphone output circuit will
>> deliver 10X power (with fixed V, P~1/R) into a 30-ohm headphone as a
>> 300-ohm headphone, so at some point the amp might clip as you raise
>> the headphone impedance?
>>
>
> Only if you crank the headphone output too high. My 1V example is simply
> the maximum sine wave output at clip, and that value is typical. When you
> turn down the headphone gain, you reduce that voltage. I don't recall the
> spec for the K3. In your 30 ohm headphone example, you would probably not
> need to crank the gain nearly as high, so the output voltage would stay
> below clip. The exception might be if the operator has significant hearing
> loss, so was driving the headphones very hard.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Waterfall Off with SVGA Waterfall On???

[Steve Ellington]

No

On Sat, Dec 26, 2015 at 10:03 PM, Alan  wrote:

> On 12/26/2015 06:23 PM, Ken Widelitz wrote:
>
>> The bottom of page 30 of the P3 manual shows a photo with the waterfall
>> What I would like to
>> accomplish is have the waterfall on the SVGA monitor, but not on the P3
>> display. Is that possible?
>>
>
> Yes, just use the P3's DISPLAY button to toggle the waterfall on/off on
> the main display.
>
> Alan N1AL
>
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 vs. other panadapter options

[Steve Ellington]

I've had both over the past 8 years with the K3:

Computer bases system advantages:
1. Cheaper. $300 - $500
2. Better resolution potential but depends on which SDR or sound card you
choose.
3. Point and click with mouse
4. Band changing from screen

Computer based disadvantages:
1. Cabling complexity i.e. external sound card + LP-Pan. Sound card can be
eliminated with a Fun Cube Dongle.
2. Total dependency on computer.
3. Requires a serial port which mandates using a virtual serial port
program such as LP-Bridge is you want to use a logging program at the same
time.
4. Computer must be fast enough to keep up with NAP3's requirements. I use
a quad core, I7 and 12gb of ram. You could do with less but I know this
works. This will certainly increase the CPU load on your computer.
5. Unless you have 2 monitors you will be constantly frustrated wanting to
see both your log and pan at once.

P3 System advantages
1. Simple connectivity to K3
2. Instant bandscope by simply turning on the K3.
3. Eliminates the need for any computer or software. You really need to
experience this to appreciate it. NAP3 is no longer supported by the author
and is not bug free.
4. Easy interface to a large screen monitor...Even your 65" TV will work
via the optional SVGA adapter.

Note: Not all monitors have VGA inputs therefore the P3 may need an
adapter. I use a VGA to HDMI adapter.

P3 Disadvantages:
1. Expensive $700 to $1000
2. Point and click but requires cranking a knob on the P3...I usually just
tune the K3s manually instead.

Like I stated aboveI'm relieved to no longer depend on the computer.
There was always something needing attention and software was really a
pain. I've learned to live the the P3's shortcomings. Now all my computer
needs to do is run the logging program. BTW: I use Logger32 and it allows
using your mouse wheel for tuning anyway.

Steve N4LQ







On Thu, Dec 24, 2015 at 11:47 AM, Juliean Galak  wrote:

> I'm planning on getting a K3s and am wondering about panadapters.  There's
> obviously the P3, but there are also the computer-based I new like the
> lp-pan, or using an sdr.  I kind of like having one less box on the desk -
> there'll be a computer there no matter what.  How's the quality of these
> solutions compared to the p3?  Especially the integration?
>
> Thanks,
> Juliean
> KD2JPF
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Turn On Flash

[Steve Ellington]

>From my research:
I believe all of these LED/LCD displays run the LED back-light at full
blast continuously. The LCD blocks the light per the video data however on
the P3, the LED back-light comes on before the LCD has time to block
it...Thus the flash effect.
It probably won't hurt anything but does light up a dark room rather
abruptly.

Steve N4LQ

On Thu, Dec 24, 2015 at 11:17 AM, Ed G  wrote:

> Hello,
>  I have also experienced the turn on flash on my PX3. Now that some
> others have posted about it on the P3, I will note that I find it just a
> tad
> annoying, and I prefer to look away from the screen when I turn on the PX3.
> I do not know if anything is being overstressed (I'm not familiar with the
> specs, whether the display and/or backlight are being run at max voltages,
> etc). I finally found a way to use my iphone camera's burst feature, and
> posted a short series of photos of my PX3 turning on:
> https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/KX3/photos/albums/1409683511
> The photos seem to show a short very bright flash, followed by a decreasing
> intensity, then a transition to the boot loader message, then a further
> transition to the operating display.  I would also note the pictures seem
> to
> support the impression that the turn on intensity is brighter than the
> whites seen in the operating display.  Even if the turn on flash does not
> detract from overall component lifetime, the designers might want to see if
> it could be suppressed to help polish the overall operating experience of
> the analyzers, while giving tired old eyes a break.
> --Ed, N3CW--
>
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> http://www.avast.com
>
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[Elecraft] P3 Turn on Blinding Flash

[Steve Ellington]

Just wondering:
My P3's 12v DC comes from the K3. First I turn on my power supply then the
K3. The P3 comes on automatically as per the setting.
When the P3 comes on, the LCD display is like a flash cube! BRIGHT.
Then it dims down to my normally low brightness setting.

To me it seems like this would be hard on the panel's back light.
Are my concerns unfounded?

Steve N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Turn on Blinding Flash

[Steve Ellington]

Good enough. I'm not going to worry about it.
It's just that most things like TVs etc. don't do that and you'd think such
a surge wouldn't be healthy.
73 to all.
Steve N4LQ

On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 6:21 PM, W5RDW  wrote:

> Mine has done that since day one. I never gave it a thought something was
> not
> right.
>
>
>
> -
> Roger W5RDW
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-Turn-on-Blinding-Flash-tp7611735p7611740.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 cw waterfall

[Steve Ellington]

The P3 can't compete with a computer but it is handy.
n4lq

On Wed, Dec 9, 2015 at 4:10 PM, Barry N1EU  wrote:

> Is the waterfall speed adjustable?
>
> Any brilliant insights on optimal cw waterfall setup gratefully
> appreciated!  I'm an old fan of the cw skimmer waterfall with traces
> so clear you can easily read the cw dits/dahs.
>
> Thanks & 73,
> Barry N1EU
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Re: [Elecraft] Sub reciever

[Steve Ellington]

Config: KRX3A
Change to ANT = ATU

On Sun, Dec 6, 2015 at 4:54 PM, will...@zendamateur.nl <
pe1...@zendamateur.nl> wrote:

>
>
> Hi list
>
>
>
> I am getting crazy, my sub reciever looks like it is not recieving anymore.
>
>
>
> KRX3 is on Atu mode so should get an antenne signal  both antenne 1 and 2
> connected
>
>
>
> I have KXV3 which is on
>
>
>
> KAT3 ATU  auto
>
>
>
> Even connected a antenne on the BNC of the KXV3.
>
>
>
> I think i am forgetting  something, but even with manual i just dont get it
> to recieve.
>
>
>
> Audio on, 2 speakers connected and haedphone connected
>
> Can hear audio from reciever and sub reciever seperate, but no reception in
> sub reciever good reception in main
>
>
>
> I dont have a aux connector, but when i switch sub on it says   USE AUX
>
>
>
> What am i missing...
>
>
>
> Regards William Pe1bsb
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

[Steve Ellington]

I've made 2 attempts to install a speaker in my new K3s but they bend like
butter and distort. I was very careful to use the fiber washers and to not
over tighten the bolts. The frame of the speaker can bent with 2 fingers!
I've never seen such a flimsy speaker.

I had a brand x speaker in the junk box that worked great but I wanted it
to be original especially since the speaker is necessary to hold down the
sub receiver's shield. The junk speaker worked fine while I awaited a
replacement but the new  replacement did the same. Basically it is junk.
I wonder if they washers they sent are too thin?

I never use the internal speaker anyway but feel like it should at least
work.

Has anyone else noticed this? Otherwise I love the K3s!

Steve N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

[Steve Ellington]

If the washers are one micro too thick, air leaks around the speaker
degrading the sound.
If the washers are one micro too thin you can warp the speaker.

The cure is to have a spacer between the speaker and the lid.  No air
should leak. I think of something like a spacer for PC fans or a
carburetor/manifold gasket. Just something stamped out of cardboard would
be fine.

Steve N4LQ


On Sat, Dec 5, 2015 at 7:51 PM, Wayne Burdick <n...@elecraft.com> wrote:

> Thanks, Ron. I'm also going to look into the thickness of the fibre
> washers. They're supposed to be as tall as the cone to prevent bending.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> On Dec 5, 2015, at 1:59 PM, "Ron D'Eau Claire" <r...@cobi.biz> wrote:
>
> > Hi Steve. Ron (Tech writer) AC7AC here.
> >
> > After r/r the speaker in a K3, K3 and K3S many times, I have managed to
> make
> > little dimples in the frame ears around the lock washers and nuts. But
> that
> > does not damage the performance of the speaker.
> >
> > As you probably know, the distortion and buzzing occurs with the voice
> coil
> > attached at the center of the cone rubs against the magnet. That happens
> > when the entire frame is distorted.
> >
> > Such distortion can result from aggressively tightening the mounting
> screws
> > so that the ring were the voice coil is attached is bent, which is why
> the
> > warning in the assembly procedure. But it takes being very aggressive.
> >
> > It can happen as a result of handling too, particularly if the speaker is
> > dropped, even when in its box. The magnet is heavy enough that it can
> bend
> > the frame members supporting the magnet on impact. I did that once right
> on
> > my workbench.
> >
> > It sounds like the factory accidentally may have sent you a defective
> > speaker, since you obviously are aware of the distortion issue. Or it's
> > possible the box containing the speaker was the victim of a shipping
> company
> > "gorilla" dribbling it across the sorting table. Elecraft packages
> shipments
> > very well, but I never underestimate the abilities of shipping companies,
> > Hi!
> >
> > 73, Ron AC7AC
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Wayne
> > Burdick
> > Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 12:11 PM
> > To: Steve Ellington
> > Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker
> >
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > Sorry to hear about this. I've never heard this complaint before (and
> there
> > are tens of thousands of these speakers in use, in both the K3 and K3S).
> The
> > frame should not bend if the correct fibre washers are used and the
> hardware
> > is not over-tightened. I'll check with our manufacturing lead to see if
> the
> > wrong ones were shipped.
> >
> > I'll also check with our tech writer. Perhaps the instructions could be
> > clarified.
> >
> > The internal speaker is certainly of high quality, so I hope you can get
> one
> > installed (I'm sure customer support will send another, given your
> issues).
> > It has excellent sensitivity (95 dB SPL, due in part to the very large
> > shielded magnet) and a wide frequency response range. Given the large top
> > cover mounting surface, the internal speaker is quite loud, with a low
> > natural resonance point.
> >
> > 73,
> > Wayne
> > N6KR
> >
> > On Dec 5, 2015, at 11:59 AM, Steve Ellington <steven...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >> I've made 2 attempts to install a speaker in my new K3s but they bend
> >> like butter and distort. I was very careful to use the fiber washers
> >> and to not over tighten the bolts. The frame of the speaker can bent
> with
> > 2 fingers!
> >> I've never seen such a flimsy speaker.
> >>
> >> I had a brand x speaker in the junk box that worked great but I wanted
> >> it to be original especially since the speaker is necessary to hold
> >> down the sub receiver's shield. The junk speaker worked fine while I
> >> awaited a replacement but the new  replacement did the same. Basically
> it
> > is junk.
> >> I wonder if they washers they sent are too thin?
> >>
> >> I never use the internal speaker anyway but feel like it should at
> >> least work.
> >>
> >> Has anyone else noticed this? Otherwise I love the K3s!
> >>
> >> Steve N4LQ
> >
> >
> >
> > _

Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

[Steve Ellington]

Mike
Trust meI was very gentle, especially the second time around.

The cardboard trim around the speakers is thicker than the fiber washers
therefore the speaker ears do tend to bend.
The washers should be thicker or the speaker ring should be thinner.

AnywayLeaving bolts this loose isn't good construction practice anyway.
Surely a better method of attaching a simple speaker to a piece of metal
can be found.

On Sat, Dec 5, 2015 at 4:35 PM, <a...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I have an older K3 and a spare speaker (part #E850300).  Its hard to
> imagine flange being bent with little 4-40 screws, BUT, in my assembly
> manual p52, last step above Figure 74,it states in BOLD lettering, "Do not
> tighten the screws enough to bend the speaker flanges!"
>
> IF this were not an issue sometime in the past,  one wonders why such a
> warning would be stated in bold letters? Otherwise I find the little
> speaker to be as Wayne describes in his reply.   Steve could you really be
> the first out of so many thousands to actually bend the flanges?
>
> 73,
> Mike
> AC5P
>
>
>
> On Saturday, December 5, 2015 2:11 PM, Wayne Burdick <n...@elecraft.com>
> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> Sorry to hear about this. I've never heard this complaint before (and
> there are tens of thousands of these speakers in use, in both the K3 and
> K3S). The frame should not bend if the correct fibre washers are used and
> the hardware is not over-tightened. I'll check with our manufacturing lead
> to see if the wrong ones were shipped.
>
> I'll also check with our tech writer. Perhaps the instructions could be
> clarified.
>
> The internal speaker is certainly of high quality, so I hope you can get
> one installed (I'm sure customer support will send another, given your
> issues). It has excellent sensitivity (95 dB SPL, due in part to the very
> large shielded magnet) and a wide frequency response range. Given the large
> top cover mounting surface, the internal speaker is quite loud, with a low
> natural resonance point.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
> On Dec 5, 2015, at 11:59 AM, Steve Ellington <steven...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I've made 2 attempts to install a speaker in my new K3s but they bend
> like
> > butter and distort. I was very careful to use the fiber washers and to
> not
> > over tighten the bolts. The frame of the speaker can bent with 2 fingers!
> > I've never seen such a flimsy speaker.
> >
> > I had a brand x speaker in the junk box that worked great but I wanted it
> > to be original especially since the speaker is necessary to hold down the
> > sub receiver's shield. The junk speaker worked fine while I awaited a
> > replacement but the new  replacement did the same. Basically it is junk.
> > I wonder if they washers they sent are too thin?
> >
> > I never use the internal speaker anyway but feel like it should at least
> > work.
> >
> > Has anyone else noticed this? Otherwise I love the K3s!
> >
> > Steve N4LQ
>
>
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

[Steve Ellington]

People have been bolting speakers to face plates, grills, wood boxes and
panels for the past 75 years using wrenches, pliers and huge screwdrivers
and air powered drills and probably nails. Someone finally invented a way
to screw it up.



On Sat, Dec 5, 2015 at 4:59 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire <r...@cobi.biz> wrote:

> Hi Steve. Ron (Tech writer) AC7AC here.
>
> After r/r the speaker in a K3, K3 and K3S many times, I have managed to
> make
> little dimples in the frame ears around the lock washers and nuts. But that
> does not damage the performance of the speaker.
>
> As you probably know, the distortion and buzzing occurs with the voice coil
> attached at the center of the cone rubs against the magnet. That happens
> when the entire frame is distorted.
>
> Such distortion can result from aggressively tightening the mounting screws
> so that the ring were the voice coil is attached is bent, which is why the
> warning in the assembly procedure. But it takes being very aggressive.
>
> It can happen as a result of handling too, particularly if the speaker is
> dropped, even when in its box. The magnet is heavy enough that it can bend
> the frame members supporting the magnet on impact. I did that once right on
> my workbench.
>
> It sounds like the factory accidentally may have sent you a defective
> speaker, since you obviously are aware of the distortion issue. Or it's
> possible the box containing the speaker was the victim of a shipping
> company
> "gorilla" dribbling it across the sorting table. Elecraft packages
> shipments
> very well, but I never underestimate the abilities of shipping companies,
> Hi!
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Wayne
> Burdick
> Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 12:11 PM
> To: Steve Ellington
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> Sorry to hear about this. I've never heard this complaint before (and there
> are tens of thousands of these speakers in use, in both the K3 and K3S).
> The
> frame should not bend if the correct fibre washers are used and the
> hardware
> is not over-tightened. I'll check with our manufacturing lead to see if the
> wrong ones were shipped.
>
> I'll also check with our tech writer. Perhaps the instructions could be
> clarified.
>
> The internal speaker is certainly of high quality, so I hope you can get
> one
> installed (I'm sure customer support will send another, given your issues).
> It has excellent sensitivity (95 dB SPL, due in part to the very large
> shielded magnet) and a wide frequency response range. Given the large top
> cover mounting surface, the internal speaker is quite loud, with a low
> natural resonance point.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
> On Dec 5, 2015, at 11:59 AM, Steve Ellington <steven...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I've made 2 attempts to install a speaker in my new K3s but they bend
> > like butter and distort. I was very careful to use the fiber washers
> > and to not over tighten the bolts. The frame of the speaker can bent with
> 2 fingers!
> > I've never seen such a flimsy speaker.
> >
> > I had a brand x speaker in the junk box that worked great but I wanted
> > it to be original especially since the speaker is necessary to hold
> > down the sub receiver's shield. The junk speaker worked fine while I
> > awaited a replacement but the new  replacement did the same. Basically it
> is junk.
> > I wonder if they washers they sent are too thin?
> >
> > I never use the internal speaker anyway but feel like it should at
> > least work.
> >
> > Has anyone else noticed this? Otherwise I love the K3s!
> >
> > Steve N4LQ
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] SP3 ISSUE

[Steve Ellington]

Some information needed.
Has any external speaker ever worked with your K3?
What's the SPKR+PH got to do with this?
In CFG Spkr...Is it set for 1 or 2 speakers?
Are you plugging the SP3 into the ext spkr jack on the rear of the K3 or
one of the headphone jacks?
Can you plug your SP3 into some other device such as a stereo or radio and
hear anything?

The jacks on the SP3 are pretty cheesy. My "A" jack fell apart on first use
and I had to super glue it together.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mqha19kdX1I

Steve N4LQ


On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 2:18 PM, Robert 'RC' Conley 
wrote:

> My SP3 arrived today. it is very beautiful and compliments my K3/P3.
> However it does not seem to perform properly. If the supplied cable  or
> any  stereo cable is fully plugged into the K3 rear speaker jacks and SP3
> inputs no audio comes out. However if the cable is loosely plugged in I
> have audio. I checked this on the Menu settings of SPKRS and SPKR+PH both.
> Am I missing something?
>
> 73
>  RC KC5WA
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[Elecraft] Stereo Speaker for K3

[Steve Ellington]

Am I missing something? Why would one want to use an amplified speaker on a
K3 since the radio already has an amplifier? Doing so would seem to invite
distortion and RF pickup. The K3's audio output is supposed to have a 4 ohm
load and computer speakers are probably closer to 1000 ohms. It's almost
like having no load at all. I don't think that's good for the K3's output
chip.

I have the West Mtn. speakers here and they sound rather poor compared to
almost any comparable computer speaker.

Steve N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] SP3 Speakers

[Steve Ellington]

Also the rather flowery description of the SP3 has disappeared from the
website. It's not even listed on the products page.

On Sun, Nov 22, 2015 at 1:59 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:

> They are identical. Don’t know why the manual isn't on the web site. I'll
> check Monday.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Phil Hystad
> Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2015 10:25 AM
> To: Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: [Elecraft] SP3 Speakers
>
> Now, I probably had my hands on this info back when the SP3 was announced
> but I lost track and I can’t remember details like I am asking here.
>
> The order page separately lists the SP3 external speaker and the Second
> SP3 external speaker but listed with the same price of $179.95.  The first
> entry on the order page says “(main/sub audio)” and the second SP3 entry
> says “(for stereo FX, separate main/sub audio)”.
>
>
> What is not clear to me is whether these two speakers are IDENTICAL or
> DIFFERENT in some way.  The photos linked with the Order page only show the
> face of one speaker, not the back.  I think I remember seeing a more
> detailed data sheet on the SP3 that might have shown the back connections
> and that might have given hints whether these two speakers are the same are
> not.
>
> Pointing me to the data sheet with answers is good enough.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Stereo Speaker for K3

[Steve Ellington]

Am I missing something? Why would one want to use an amplified speaker on a
K3 since the radio already has an amplifier? Doing so would seem to invite
distortion and RF pickup. The K3's audio output is supposed to have a 4 ohm
load and computer speakers are probably closer to 1000 ohms. It's almost
like having no load at all. I don't think that's good for the K3's output
chip.

I have the West Mtn. speakers here and they sound rather poor compared to
almost any comparable computer speaker.

Steve N4LQ

On Sun, Nov 22, 2015 at 4:08 PM, Kevin Stover 
wrote:

> Sorry about the bad attitude from some. Bet they like to troll around DX
> pileups and send/yell UP!! as well.
> Vote number three for the West Mountain CommSPKR's. I have two pair, one
> on the shack computer and one on the radio. The only thing done to mine is
> lengthening the short, my opinion, cable.
>
> --
> R. Kevin Stover
> AC0H
> ARRL
> FISTS #11993
> SKCC #215
> NAQCC #3441
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Stereo Speaker for K3

[Steve Ellington]

​I'm surprised nobody mentioned the SP3.
I like mine. It's hard to find any mention of it on the Elecraft web site
however.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2EmW46zgDw
Steve N4LQ​

On Sat, Nov 21, 2015 at 6:24 PM,  wrote:

> I’m interested in getting a nice stereo speaker for my K3 so I can
> listen to both of my rx’s at the same time without having to wear cans.
> What can be recommended?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ronnie W5SUM
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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-KPA500] FS KPA500

[Steve Ellington]

Mods? What mods?
Steve N4LQ

On Fri, Nov 13, 2015 at 3:33 PM, Jack Satterfield 
wrote:

> I have a used KPA500 with a brand new LPF module with a 1 year warranty.
> Just back from Elecraft with latest mods, $2000 shipped.
> All responses off line please.
> Jack
> W4GRJ
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Sherwood Receiver Test Data - K3S Added Today

[Steve Ellington]

Looks like the K3S should be above the Flex because the Flex achieved 2DB
higher due to:

Footnote Y --- "This is a testing anomaly of a direct-sampling receiver."

Congratulations K3S
Steve N4LQ

On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 6:48 PM, Bill Breeden 
wrote:

>
> Rob Sherwood added the K3S to his Receiver Test Data page today.
>
> 73,
>
> Bill - NA5DX
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Sherwood Receiver Test Data - K3S Added Today

[Steve Ellington]

Fred
Well for the Flex 6000 series you keep one hand on the so called AGC-T
control. Since there is no hardware AGC you're doomed to constantly
juggling the input level.
I had one here and used the Flex Control knob to perform that function.
Using it this way brings back memories of Pre-AGC days and frequent
adjustment of the RF gain knob.
Steve N4LQ

On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 7:32 PM, Fred Jensen <k6...@foothill.net> wrote:

> Question from a mathematics major [whose parents wanted him to be a EE]:
>
> In a direct-sampling receiver, how do you control the input level to the
> ADC to achieve maximum available dynamic range without clipping at the ADC?
>
> 73,
>
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
> - www.cqp.org
>
> On 11/10/2015 3:58 PM, Steve Ellington wrote:
>
>> Looks like the K3S should be above the Flex because the Flex achieved 2DB
>> higher due to:
>>
>> Footnote Y --- "This is a testing anomaly of a direct-sampling receiver."
>>
>> Congratulations K3S
>> Steve N4LQ
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Sherwood Receiver Test Data - K3S Added Today

[Steve Ellington]

Part of the problem here is that Flex won't release the schematic to the
6000 series so who knows?
I suspect that the AGC-T (Agc  threshold) control actually adjust the input
level to the ADCsomehow.
This control is manual and must be fiddled with per-band as conditions
change. Strong signals will sound distorted and you must manually
compensate often.
N4LQ

On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 8:42 PM, Fred Jensen <k6...@foothill.net> wrote:

> OK.  Remembering that I'm the one who disappointed Mom and Dad when I got
> A's in Math and B's and C's in EE, and finally transferred to the Math Dept
> ...
>
> I didn't want to imply it was a problem, it was just a question.  First
> off, I believe a direct-sampling SDR is one that essentially does nothing
> to the entire RF envelope being received except maybe bandpass limit it to
> the ham band of interest.  No guarantee that's correct, and if it isn't,
> you might as well delete this now.
>
> But if it is what direct-sample means, and since the RF envelope is both +
> and -, in an 8-bit ADC, 127 would be zero, 255 [all 1's] would be the
> maximum along with all 0's for the negative parts.  If the RF envelope is
> allowed to go above the value that digitizes to all 1's, it will still
> digitize to all 1's and it's excursions above all 1's are lost [i.e.
> clipped].  In my experience as a ham, this is rarely if ever a good thing.
>
> OTOH, you want as much dynamic range as possible, so you want the
> strongest input to the ADC be at the all-1's level so the parts of the
> envelope below that level will digitize to something other than zero [127
> in my 8-bit example].  Any signals below that level will digitize to 127
> and you'll never hear them.
>
> If the gain of the RF stage(s), and I'm assuming there is at least one RF
> stage, is such that the maximum of the RF envelope is below the clipping
> point, then it seems to me that signals you might have heard won't be heard
> because they never got digitized.
>
> My question was [and is], do direct sampling receivers employ some sort of
> AGC to keep the max RF envelope at the clipping point?  If the answer is
> "yes", I have a second question in the wings waiting to be asked.
>
> Mom and Dad never recovered from their mathematician's defection from EE,
> despite having been a wireless addict since age 12.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
> - www.cqp.org
>
>
> On 11/10/2015 5:06 PM, Barry LaZar wrote:
>
>> Fred,
>>  When you have a 24 bit A/D and not looking at the entire spectrum,
>> this should not be as big a problem as you imply, if gain distribution
>> is correct.  24 bits should yield a great enough dynamic range to cover
>> greater than ~ 95% of time; that last ~5% covers your friend next door
>> with a KW or that thunderstorm over head. 24 bits also allows for some
>> amplification to overcome the down stream noise figure that may be
>> greater than ambient.
>>  On the other hand, the Flex uses a really high speed A/D, but it is
>> only 16 bits, if memory serves. That architecture is far more sensitive
>> to gain distribution. Those who have suggested that the Flex may have a
>> problem with all the bits going to 1 in a stress environment may be very
>> correct. IMHO: With the state of the A/D art as it is, I believe
>> Elecraft has the better practical architecture. As soon as low noise,
>> high speed A/Ds become available with greater than 16 bits, my opinion
>> may change.
>>
>> 73,
>> Barry
>> K3NDM
>>
>>
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: "Fred Jensen" <k6...@foothill.net>
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Sent: 11/10/2015 7:32:56 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sherwood Receiver Test Data - K3S Added Today
>>
>> Question from a mathematics major [whose parents wanted him to be a EE]:
>>>
>>> In a direct-sampling receiver, how do you control the input level to
>>> the ADC to achieve maximum available dynamic range without clipping at
>>> the ADC?
>>>
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> Fred K6DGW
>>> - Northern California Contest Club
>>> - CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
>>> - www.cqp.org
>>>
>>> On 11/10/2015 3:58 PM, Steve Ellington wrote:
>>>
>>>> Looks like the K3S should be above the Flex because the Flex achieved
>>>> 2DB
>>>> higher due to:
>>>>
>>>> Footnote Y --- "This is a testing anomaly of a direct-sampling
>>>> receiver."
>>>>
>>>> Congratulations K3S
>>>

[Elecraft] Video Demo Noise Blanker K3S P3

[Steve Ellington]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-rsMcQwZHY=youtu.be

Steve N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DSP processor speed

[Steve Ellington]

The IC-7851 consumes *200 Watts in RECEIVE mode!*
The K3.About 12 watts.

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:46 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:

> The K3's DSP code is written in very efficient assembly language. It
> executes quickly, because it doesn't need the lengthy library-routine calls
> typical of the C or C++ code written for GHz-clock DSPs. The code is also
> extremely compact.
>
> The crystal oscillator frequency is not a direct indicator of clock speed.
> An on-chip PLL multiples it to a much higher frequency. And again,
> efficient DSP code written for 48-kHz IF/12-kHz AF sample rates doesn't
> require a lot of time to execute.
>
> This same philosophy applies to the K3's microcontroller. One result is
> that a K3 draws far less current in receive mode than most desktop
> transceivers.
>
> The K3's NR has a lot of flexibility (with 32 settings), and some
> experimentation is required for best results.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video

[Steve Ellington]

Yes, using a sound pressure meter I can see a peak around 570 and one down
around 330 or so . These are only about 3 db variations however.
Setting the speaker on the desktop makes a *HUGE difference* in
loudness...Maybe 10 db or so. The reflection from the surface helps greatly
and this is true of most speakers. Setting it on a shelf totally wrecks
everything.

On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 7:24 PM, <a...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Sounds good and like maybe a peak on CW pitch around 550Hz?Have you
> varied the sidetone pitch at a fixed  level to check response?
>
> Mike  AC5P
>
>
>
> On Friday, November 6, 2015 3:27 PM, Steve Ellington <steven...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
> I just did a little video on the SP3.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2EmW46zgDw
>
> Steve N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video

[Steve Ellington]

​Go to your audio settings...Playback devices.Make your PC's speakers
AND the ​K3S's USB Codec device DEFAULT devicesBoth should work now.

Steve N4LQ

On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 7:34 PM, Ian <ik7...@verizon.net> wrote:

> I have to pull the USB cable from my K3S to my laptop so that the laptop
> speakers are re-enabled.
> 73, Ian N8IK
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil
> Wheeler
> Sent: Friday, November 6, 2015 19:12
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video
>
> You mean you don't watch it on your P3, Tom? :-)
>
> 73, Phil W7OX
>
> On 11/6/15 3:52 PM, Chester Alderman wrote:
> > WHY???
> >
> > My K3 has nothing to do with trying to listen to YouTube audio...that
> > I know of???
> >
> > Tom - W4BQF
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Ian [mailto:ik7...@verizon.net]
> > Sent: Friday, November 6, 2015 5:06 PM
> > To: 'Anthony Scandurra'; 'Chester Alderman'
> > Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector'
> > Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video
> >
> > Unplug the USB cable from your K3  :)
> > 73, Ian N8IK
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> > Anthony Scandurra
> > Sent: Friday, November 6, 2015 16:51
> > To: Chester Alderman <alderm...@windstream.net>
> > Cc: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video
> >
> > Worked fine here...using Chrome 46.
> >
> > Nice demo, Steve!
> >
> > 73, Tony K4QE
> >
> > On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 4:43 PM, Chester Alderman
> > <alderm...@windstream.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> No audio on your video?
> >>
> >> Tom - W4BQF
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> >> Steve Ellington
> >> Sent: Friday, November 6, 2015 4:26 PM
> >> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >> Subject: [Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video
> >>
> >> I just did a little video on the SP3.
> >>
> >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2EmW46zgDw
> >>
> >> Steve N4LQ
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video

[Steve Ellington]

NawThe other guy had a point about windows sounds getting broadcast by
the K3If it works, don't fix!

On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 8:42 PM, Ian <ik7...@verizon.net> wrote:

> Thanks Robin,
> I learn something new every day!  So I made my laptop the "playback
> device" default.  The K3S "device" just says "ready".  Should I also make
> the laptop microphone the "recording device" default?
> 73, Ian N8IK
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Robin Moseley [mailto:g1...@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, November 6, 2015 19:56
> To: Steve Ellington <steven...@gmail.com>; Ian <ik7...@verizon.net>
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video
>
> NO!
> do not make the  K3 USB codec a default device for audio or communications.
>
> That makes windows sounds  use the  K3s USB codec play  beeps etc.
>
> Robin G1MHU
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Steve Ellington
> Sent: Saturday, November 7, 2015 12:39 AM
> To: Ian
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video
>
> ​Go to your audio settings...Playback devices.Make your PC's speakers
> AND the ​K3S's USB Codec device DEFAULT devicesBoth should work now.
>
> Steve N4LQ
>
> On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 7:34 PM, Ian <ik7...@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> > I have to pull the USB cable from my K3S to my laptop so that the
> > laptop speakers are re-enabled.
> > 73, Ian N8IK
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> > Phil Wheeler
> > Sent: Friday, November 6, 2015 19:12
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video
> >
> > You mean you don't watch it on your P3, Tom? :-)
> >
> > 73, Phil W7OX
> >
> > On 11/6/15 3:52 PM, Chester Alderman wrote:
> > > WHY???
> > >
> > > My K3 has nothing to do with trying to listen to YouTube
> > > audio...that I know of???
> > >
> > > Tom - W4BQF
> > >
> > >
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: Ian [mailto:ik7...@verizon.net]
> > > Sent: Friday, November 6, 2015 5:06 PM
> > > To: 'Anthony Scandurra'; 'Chester Alderman'
> > > Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector'
> > > Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video
> > >
> > > Unplug the USB cable from your K3  :) 73, Ian N8IK
> > >
> > >
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> > > Anthony Scandurra
> > > Sent: Friday, November 6, 2015 16:51
> > > To: Chester Alderman <alderm...@windstream.net>
> > > Cc: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> > > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video
> > >
> > > Worked fine here...using Chrome 46.
> > >
> > > Nice demo, Steve!
> > >
> > > 73, Tony K4QE
> > >
> > > On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 4:43 PM, Chester Alderman
> > > <alderm...@windstream.net>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > >> No audio on your video?
> > >>
> > >> Tom - W4BQF
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> -Original Message-
> > >> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> > >> Steve Ellington
> > >> Sent: Friday, November 6, 2015 4:26 PM
> > >> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > >> Subject: [Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video
> > >>
> > >> I just did a little video on the SP3.
> > >>
> > >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2EmW46zgDw
> > >>
> > >> Steve N4LQ
> >
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 QSK CW Audio Dropouts

[Steve Ellington]

K3SQSK on any band, CW...I hear an occasional clunk or pop but only
when using the bug. Seems like it builds up then suddenly discharges or
something or maybe a weird timing issue. Nothing too serious. I don't
notice it with the internal keyer, just the bug and on the lower bands 80,
40 etc.
N4LQ

On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 1:15 PM, Jim - N4ST  wrote:

> If it is the PA Temp issue, the dropouts should only occur on 12, 10 & 6
> meters.
> The other bands will be clean.
> Drove me nuts when I got my new K3S last week.
>
> __
> 73,
> Jim - N4ST
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> ok1rp
> Sent: Friday, November 6, 2015 12:05
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 QSK CW Audio Dropouts
>
> Hi all,
>
> few days ago I realized on K3 (using latest MCU/FPF) weird receive audio
> dropout problem.
> It happends during QSK CW operation and it is hearable in audio in between
> TX periods > time to time but it is repeatable. I did not heard these
> dropouts during receiving only mode...
> Simply when I am listenning on K3 all is ok but when I am starting to call
> CW or I am making QSO then dropouts in audio are readable in between TX
> periods with QSK.
>
> Is there someone with similar effect please?
> Is there chance that it is linked to K3S weird transmit audio dropout
> problem discussed in different threat?
>
> Thank for ideas.
>
> 73 - Petr, OK1RP
>
>
>
> -
> http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
> --
> View this message in context:
>
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-QSK-CW-Audio-Dropouts-tp7610047.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
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[Elecraft] Speaker SP3 Video

[Steve Ellington]

I just did a little video on the SP3.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2EmW46zgDw

Steve N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 QSK CW Audio Dropouts

[Steve Ellington]

Depends on the bug. With my McElroy stream I had to add a 1uf capacitor in
parallel with it. After reducing the dit gap to compensate to the keying,
it sounds great.
On my Vibroplex Presentation, no capacitor is needed and keying is perfect.
I noticed the same thing on my old K3 and a few other rigs. I suspect it's
something to do with contact bounce due to variations in the dit spring and
how different rigs react to the bounce.
I have to remember we are no longer just keying a circuit rather we are
keying a computer from another planet. :*)
Steve N4LQ

On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 4:04 PM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX <rmcg...@blomand.net>
wrote:

> Steve, I believe anything else you are hearing is something else. This
> issue is strictly on 12M, 10M and 6M.  Even noticed on 10M and 6M AM with
> the artifact being a momentary carrier collapse.  It's fast, about 10
> milliseconds and does occur every 15 seconds.
>
> I tried a bug with my K3S and did not find to have reliable keying. I
> cleaned the bug contacts but to no avail.  Went back to the Iambic paddles
> and the internal keyer with 100% satisfaction.
>
> 73
> Bob, K4TAX
>
> On 11/6/2015 2:06 PM, Steve Ellington wrote:
>
>> K3SQSK on any band, CW...I hear an occasional clunk or pop but only
>> when using the bug. Seems like it builds up then suddenly discharges or
>> something or maybe a weird timing issue. Nothing too serious. I don't
>> notice it with the internal keyer, just the bug and on the lower bands 80,
>> 40 etc.
>> N4LQ
>>
>
>
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[Elecraft] P3 - Waterfall Marker?

[Steve Ellington]

Am I doing something wrong or is this just how it works?

I have the P3's waterfall marker turned on. The "marker" slowly crawls down
the screen toward the bottom. Moving the Select knob drags the top of the
marker and the rest slowly follows drawing a snake. Cute but...huh?

Question: What good is this? The reason I would want the marker is to
quickly set it on a signal that has already progressed down the screen. I
can't because basically there's no marker. If I just wait for it, desired
signal is gone.

Why can't the marker in the waterfall just be an extension of the one in
the spectrum so you can use it? Is there some technical reason?

I'm used to using software for this and none of them work like this.

Am I missing a setting somewhere? I've looked hard.


Thanks for listening;

Steve N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 - Waterfall Marker?

[Steve Ellington]

Paul et al
"Freeze" locks up everything including the marker so how does that help?

When searching for signals we might see one on the waterfall that is half
way down the screen. We want to mark, click or do something to get us
exactly on frequency so we can either wait for the signal to return or try
calling QRZ however there doesn't seem to be a way to get on frequency
other than a rough guess.

At first when you mentioned "freeze" I was excited but now I find that
using freeze makes the situation even worse since nothing responds. I'm
just looking at a locked up system!

The marker needs to be independent of the displayed materialLike a
mouse on virtually any other SDR software.
Is that something Elecraft can do or is it impossible with this hardware
configuration?

Thanks
Steve N4LQ

On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 11:49 AM, Paul Saffren N6HZ 
wrote:

> Hi Steve,
>
> That's how it works.  If you don't want the signal to roll off the bottom
> of
> the screen, use Freeze to stop the screen from updating or turn averaging
> on
> to slow the screen updates and provide more history.
>
> Kind regards,
>
> Paul
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-Waterfall-Marker-tp7609925p7609928.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 - Waterfall Marker?

[Steve Ellington]

All that's needed is a dot, pointer...something to act as a guide so we can
line up the waterfall with the spectrum's marker. It doesn't need to be a
translucent line.
The dot could be at the bottom of the waterfall since that's where the
desired signal is headed anyway.
Great minds at Elecraft can do this!
Steve N4LQ

On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 12:45 PM, Paul Saffren <pa...@elecraft.com> wrote:

> Hi Steve,
>
> It's pretty hard to do what you want with the P3 hardware.  The P3's
> hardware is nowhere close to what you can get with a standalone PC, but it
> does alright for a standalone panadapter and offers some features not found
> on traditional SDR systems.   There's really no way to draw a translucent
> line down the waterfall display and still have the P3 run at a reasonable
> speed.
>
> Kind regards,
>
> paul
>
> Paul Saffren - N6HZ
> Project Manager
> Elecraft Inc. 831-763-4211 x122www.elecraft.com
>
> On 11/4/2015 9:32 AM, Steve Ellington wrote:
>
> Paul et al
> "Freeze" locks up everything including the marker so how does that help?
>
> When searching for signals we might see one on the waterfall that is half
> way down the screen. We want to mark, click or do something to get us
> exactly on frequency so we can either wait for the signal to return or try
> calling QRZ however there doesn't seem to be a way to get on frequency
> other than a rough guess.
>
> At first when you mentioned "freeze" I was excited but now I find that
> using freeze makes the situation even worse since nothing responds. I'm
> just looking at a locked up system!
>
> The marker needs to be independent of the displayed materialLike a
> mouse on virtually any other SDR software.
> Is that something Elecraft can do or is it impossible with this hardware
> configuration?
>
> Thanks
> Steve N4LQ
>
> On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 11:49 AM, Paul Saffren N6HZ <pa...@elecraft.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Steve,
>>
>> That's how it works.  If you don't want the signal to roll off the bottom
>> of
>> the screen, use Freeze to stop the screen from updating or turn averaging
>> on
>> to slow the screen updates and provide more history.
>>
>> Kind regards,
>>
>> Paul
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context:
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-Waterfall-Marker-tp7609925p7609928.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> __
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>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 - Waterfall Marker?

[Steve Ellington]

I always used fixed mode. Nope doesn't help.
There needs to be a marker at least at the bottom of the waterfall so you
can mark the signal before it disappears and shift frequency to it.

On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 1:11 PM, Steve Glickstein <w4fmd.st...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Try Fixed/Tracking and see if that helps.
>
> 73, Steve W4FMD
>
>
> On 11/4/2015 12:32 PM, Steve Ellington wrote:
>
>> Paul et al
>> "Freeze" locks up everything including the marker so how does that help?
>>
>> When searching for signals we might see one on the waterfall that is half
>> way down the screen. We want to mark, click or do something to get us
>> exactly on frequency so we can either wait for the signal to return or try
>> calling QRZ however there doesn't seem to be a way to get on frequency
>> other than a rough guess.
>>
>> At first when you mentioned "freeze" I was excited but now I find that
>> using freeze makes the situation even worse since nothing responds. I'm
>> just looking at a locked up system!
>>
>> The marker needs to be independent of the displayed materialLike a
>> mouse on virtually any other SDR software.
>> Is that something Elecraft can do or is it impossible with this hardware
>> configuration?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Steve N4LQ
>>
>> On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 11:49 AM, Paul Saffren N6HZ <pa...@elecraft.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Steve,
>>>
>>> That's how it works.  If you don't want the signal to roll off the bottom
>>> of
>>> the screen, use Freeze to stop the screen from updating or turn averaging
>>> on
>>> to slow the screen updates and provide more history.
>>>
>>> Kind regards,
>>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> View this message in context:
>>>
>>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-Waterfall-Marker-tp7609925p7609928.html
>>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>>> __
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>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>>> Message delivered to steven...@gmail.com
>>>
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>>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 + Tuner + Norcal Doublet

[Steve Ellington]

That's a bad design for 40m because the input resistance is only about 3 
ohms. The designer was concerned about the radiation pattern resembling a 
dipole on higher frequencies with little regard to matching.

Using a 4:1 balun would do the opposite of what you want to accomplish. 5 
ohms is difficult for any tuner to match and can cause a lot of power loss 
in the circuit and with higher power, burn up a torroid coil! That balun 
would drop the impedance to an insane value.

Generally a multiband doublet should be 1/2 wavelength on the lowest band. 
That's about 65 feet for 40m cw. Also that feedline that the author used no 
doubt has a rather low impedance which further complicates things. I'de 
guess it is about 100 ohms. Using 300 tv twin lead would help raise the Z 
for your tuner to about 15 ohms on 40m even with the 44' flat top. Try that 
first.

If all else fails, tie the feeders together and feed it like a long wire 
against a counterpoise.

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Burke Jones burkejo...@gmail.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 2:44 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 + Tuner + Norcal Doublet


I constructed a Norcal Doublet using some speaker wire.  It seems to
 tune up fine on 20 meters using the internal KX1 tuner - but on 40
 meters I could not get the SWR under 4.

 Would a 4:1 balun help with this?

 Any links on how to build a simple balun using an aircore and not a 
 torroid?

 Thanks a bunch!

 Burke Jones
 N0HYD
 Olathe, KS
 http://www.n0hyd.com
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[Elecraft] KX3 Baseband filter?

[Steve Ellington]

Wayne made a comment during the video about the optional roofing filter being 
baseband instead of a crystal filter. Can someone explain what that means? 
Maybe I missed something.

Steve
N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Astron hum/vibration

[Steve Ellington]

From my experienceOnce it starts, there's no cure. I think the windings 
in the transformer eventually start rattling around insideMaybe you 
could talk to Astron?

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Barry w...@comcast.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 11:28 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Astron hum/vibration


I have an Astron RS70M linear supply that I've used for many years to
 power everything 12VDC in the shack, including my K3.  In my former QTH,
 I had it located under the operating desk and never heard a peep from it.

 In my new shack, which is considerably smaller, I hear an annoying hum
 from it which seems to be coming from the top of the case.  It goes away
 if I press down on it.  Any ideas how to get rid of the noise?
 Tnx,
 Barry W2UP

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Re: [Elecraft] Astron hum/vibration

[Steve Ellington]

HWonder if some quick drying epoxy would work?

Steve
N4LQ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Putnam 
  To: n...@carolina.rr.com ; w...@comcast.net ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 3:05 PM
  Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Astron hum/vibration


  I've not repaired a high current xfrmr, like that one, but have the lower 
current ones... 
  With hum that is physical, and a vibration, that maybe caused by the varnish 
breaking its hold 
  and letting the individual windings rattle. 
I may have just been lucky too... all I did was take the transformer shells 
off, exposed windings are now very visible, although only the top winding... 
and a cheap wager would be that it isn't the top one rattling... then very 
slowly pour new vanish onto the windings.
  Let it settle some, and add more.. yep,.. it is messy... very messy.. not 
something you'd want to do on carpet... or cement... or in a sink... trust me 
here... and that is another story.. really. 
Let it settle in,.. add more.. when it seems to not want to do anywhere, 
but on your shoes... maybe now would be a good time to stop. 
Let in air dry... for a long...long ... long.. time. well... ok.. tomorrow 
then. (24 hours it is always tomorrow somewhere)
  Put it all together... and hum.. away... well.. hopefully at least, it is 
away. 
  Have a great day, 

  --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy

   
   I have an Astron RS70M linear supply that I've used for many years to
power everything 12VDC in the shack, including my K3. In my former QTH,
I had it located under the operating desk and never heard a peep from it.
   
In my new shack, which is considerably smaller, I hear an annoying hum
from it which seems to be coming from the top of the case. It goes away
if I press down on it. Any ideas how to get rid of the noise?
Tnx,
Barry W2UP
   


   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Simple NR/NB feature suggestion

[Steve Ellington]

Tim:
Sounds like a good idea to put them in that order and then drop the F and 
number them 1through 32. Sometimes simple is better!

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Tim Tucker ae...@worldwidedx.com
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 4:43 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Simple NR/NB feature suggestion


 I've followed the various discussions on how well the NR/NB works as
 compared to other rigs.  I've used NR functionality in many different 
 rigs,
 as well as just about every after market solution.  In my area, the QRM
 makes NR/NB absolutely a necessity.

 Part of makes the NR  NB seem easier to use in other rigs (like Icoms) 
 is
 that the setting is continually variable from least to most.  The operator
 can tell when he's gotten too aggressive with it to suit his listening 
 style
 and can easily back it down.  As we all know, the K3 allows you to cycle
 through the various levels within an group setting and then you go through
 that cycle again with the next group setting (I think I said that 
 correctly
 ;) )

 Here's my feature suggestion - For me, it seems that I am often trying to
 compare the amount of NR/NB applied between the major groupings.  For
 example, when I operate SSB (which is most of the time), I may already 
 know
 that I want just a little NR based on what I hear, but I want to hear the
 difference between 5-1, 6-1,7-1, and 8-1.  But I can't do that without
 cycling through them all.  Also, because I have to go from 5-1 to 5-2, 
 5-3,
 etc. before I get to 6-1, my ears have lost the reference point, which was
 5-1.  Same thing applies with NB settings.  If we could have a menu button
 while in DSP adjustment that would rearrange the settings so they cycled
 through the groups at the same level setting first, I think it would be 
 very
 powerful and very awesome!  For the NR, you would need to preserve the
 groupings that are intended for CW/digital  voice.  As I understand it,
 settings 1-1 through 4-4 are intended for CW/digital and 5-1 through 8-4 
 are
 intended for phone?  Assuming my previous statement is correct, the new NR
 option, when activated would cycle like this:
 1-1, 2-1, 3-1, 4-1, 1-2, 2-2, 3-2. 4-2, (etc), 5-1, 6-1, 7-1, 8-1, 5-2, 
 6-2,
 7-2, 8-2, (etc.).

 The NB could have the same feature.  It seems like it would be a fairly
 simple firmware feature addition without doing major changes to the actual
 NR/NB algorithms and also bridge the differences between an Icom like
 implementation and the Elecraft implementation.  You should also be able 
 to
 switch it easily back and forth between the two options.  Does anybody 
 else
 like this concept?

 Tim
 AE6LX
 www.worldwidedx.com
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[Elecraft] K3 Interfacing with MFJ-1026 Noise Canceling Unit

[Steve Ellington]

Follow this link to how I hooked up the MFJ-1026 to eliminate plasma tv and 
other noise.
Note there are 2 photos. You can enlarge them by clicking Full Size below the 
photo. 
http://n4lq.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=125573648

Always keep in mindIf your noise pickkup antenna can't pickup the noise 
then you can't phase out the noise! 

Steve
N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Plasma TV Noise any ideas on how to filter it out.

[Steve Ellington]

Same thing here but the neighbor is no help other than allowing me to buy 
them a new TV. Theirs is a Samsung 58 plasma. Forget using any kind of line 
filters. The noise is radiated from the SCREENstraight out.
After months of experimentation, the only cure has been the MFJ-1026 and it 
works magic! Having a K3 with LP-PAN or P3 makes adjustments easy. Otherwise 
it would be a real pain to tweak.
You do need decent noise receiving antenna for the 1026. The K3 has the 
RX-IN/OUT jacks which allows to interface the 1026 with ease and retain your 
QSK without using the MFJ internal relay.
Contact me for any further info. 73

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Al Lorona alor...@sbcglobal.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2011 9:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Plasma TV Noise any ideas on how to filter it out.


My next-door neighbor was probably one of the early adopters of plasma TV
several years ago.

One night at bedtime I switched on the AM radio and was met by severe buzz 
all
over the dial. Not a single station was listenable. I could hear the buzz 
all
the way up to 10 meters. It only took me a few minutes to determine that it 
was
coming from my neighbor's house.

I informed him the next day. Lucky for me, he is the type of guy who can't 
stand
the idea that a brand-new device of his is causing pollution-- he saw it as 
a
defect. And, of course, his own AM radios were affected, too. He had a 
Panasonic
tech out there in a couple of days. I don't know what the tech did, but he
managed to reduce the noise by about 10 dB though he never eliminated it
entirely. I've had to live with it ever since.

Since then I have said that the two things that have the most potential to 
kill
HF ham radio are homeowners' associations and plasma TVs.

Pray that your neighbors don't buy one of these evil devices.

Al W6LX
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Re: [Elecraft] Ligntning protection

[Steve Ellington]

Question:
Does grounding your tower or metal mast increase the likelihood of it being 
hit by lightning?
I have a 50' metal mast holding up the center of a dipole. No antenna 
contacts the mast and the ant. is supported by rope. Should I drive in a 
ground rod just for the mast? If I do, would lightning be attracted to it 
then? It just seems like I'm inviting a hit by grounding it.

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Fred Townsend ftowns...@sbcglobal.net
To: 'Randy Moore' wrmoor...@gmail.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ligntning protection


 Randy:
 I can not speak to your local building codes but the rule of thumb is
 lightning does not like to travel horizontally. That doesn't mean it won't
 happen but usually lightning seeks the shortest path to ground. That
 suggests you should connect to the closest ground (exception: any fuel
 line).
 If possible I would drive my own ground rod below the shack and use the
 garage ground as well.  There is no penalty for extra grounds.

 73
 de AE6QL, Fred

 -Original Message-
 From: Randy Moore [mailto:wrmoor...@gmail.com]
 Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 8:15 AM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ligntning protection

 Sorry if someone has already asked this. My shack is on the second floor 
 of
 my home and is on the opposite corner of the house from where the 
 electrical
 power entry and ground are located. However, the electrical panel is in 
 the
 garage right below my shack. Can I connect my shack ground to the panel
 ground instead of running a ~200' long line to the electrical ground on 
 the
 other end of the house?

 Tnx es 73,
 Randy, KS4L
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Re: [Elecraft] Ligntning protection

[Steve Ellington]

Then I should charge my neighbors for protecting their houses from 
lightning.


Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Fred Townsend ftowns...@sbcglobal.net
To: 'Steve Ellington' n...@carolina.rr.com; 'Randy Moore' 
wrmoor...@gmail.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2011 4:04 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Ligntning protection


 Question:
 Does grounding your tower or metal mast increase the likelihood of it 
 being
 hit by lightning?
 Answer: One would hope would hope so.

 There are several theories of lightning protection. Before I comment on
 those methods let me ask. Would you rather the lightning strike your 
 antenna
 or your mast? If the antenna is struck your coax and everything attached 
 or
 (usually) anything near your coax, is hosed. Even disconnect switches do 
 not
 always protect. Conclusion it is much better to take the strike on the 
 mast
 but if you can prevent the strike you are still better off.

 As a young boy I helped my grandfather install lightning rods on houses.
 There were two kinds of rods. One had a sharp point at the end and the 
 other
 a big ball. The ball rods were considered to be superior because they
 usually took more strikes. Now we know that the pointed variety is 
 superior
 because they bleed off charge preventing strikes.

 Take a close look at the popular video making the rounds showing the guys
 climbing a 1700'? tower. Did you notice all the sharply pointed objects on
 arms surrounding the top? Those are there to bleed off the charge.

 Final conclusion:

 Ground the mast and put a pointed lightning rod at the top.

 de Fred AE6QL.

 -Original Message-
 From: Steve Ellington [mailto:n...@carolina.rr.com]
 Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2011 12:28 PM
 To: Fred Townsend; 'Randy Moore'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ligntning protection

 Question:
 Does grounding your tower or metal mast increase the likelihood of it 
 being
 hit by lightning?
 I have a 50' metal mast holding up the center of a dipole. No antenna
 contacts the mast and the ant. is supported by rope. Should I drive in a
 ground rod just for the mast? If I do, would lightning be attracted to it
 then? It just seems like I'm inviting a hit by grounding it.

 Steve
 N4LQ
 - Original Message -
 From: Fred Townsend ftowns...@sbcglobal.net
 To: 'Randy Moore' wrmoor...@gmail.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 12:19 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ligntning protection


 Randy:
 I can not speak to your local building codes but the rule of thumb is
 lightning does not like to travel horizontally. That doesn't mean it 
 won't
 happen but usually lightning seeks the shortest path to ground. That
 suggests you should connect to the closest ground (exception: any fuel
 line).
 If possible I would drive my own ground rod below the shack and use the
 garage ground as well.  There is no penalty for extra grounds.

 73
 de AE6QL, Fred

 -Original Message-
 From: Randy Moore [mailto:wrmoor...@gmail.com]
 Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 8:15 AM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ligntning protection

 Sorry if someone has already asked this. My shack is on the second floor
 of
 my home and is on the opposite corner of the house from where the
 electrical
 power entry and ground are located. However, the electrical panel is in
 the
 garage right below my shack. Can I connect my shack ground to the panel
 ground instead of running a ~200' long line to the electrical ground on
 the
 other end of the house?

 Tnx es 73,
 Randy, KS4L
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounds... I know, I know... its a Dead issue BUT... (no Pun)

[Steve Ellington]

Looks like a code violation. Turn yourself in!

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Phil Townsend phi...@mac.com
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2011 11:44 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Grounds... I know,I know... its a Dead issue BUT... (no 
Pun)


I really hate to bring it up again... But hear me out:

 My A/C service entrance does not have a ground rod.
 My house was built about 25 years ago.'
 I pulled the service front panel and found the following:
 All the grounds and neutrals are bonded to the metal chassis as they are 
 supposed to be.
 But there is no wire for a connection to a ground ROD!
 It looks like they used a solid metal pipe that houses the big A/C wire 
 inside of this pipe.
 This pipe IS connected to the service entrance by some metal gland nuts.
 The 2 1/2 pipe goes outside of the house and is buried underground. It 
 goes off to a transformer that is about 100 yards away.
 So my question:
 IS this pipe MY Ground rod?


 Don't follow
 My Tweets
 http://twitter.com/PhilTownsend

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Re: [Elecraft] [LP-PAN] K3 FW 4.31 problem

[Steve Ellington]

Well I just checked it again and now it's working ok. I guess the reboot from 
last night fixed it. Sorry if I caused any confusion! 

Steve
N4LQ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Phipps 
  To: lp-...@yahoogroups.com 
  Cc: Steve Ellington ; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net ; Wayne Burdick - N6KR, 
Elecraft 
  Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 1:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [LP-PAN] K3 FW 4.31 problem



  Hi Steve. I tried 4.31 with the current version of LP-Bridge and I couldn't 
reproduce this with just LP-Bridge or with LP-Bridge and PowerSDR/IF v1.19.3.5. 
I did have a little trouble getting 4.31 to load, but after a couple tries it 
loaded OK. It is normal for PowerSDR to mute when XMIT is pressed or key/paddle 
is used, but in my case it releases quickly as it should. What polling rate are 
you using for LP-Bridge and what kind of serial port do you have? I have an 
FTDI USB to serial adapter on my laptop. The OS is W7 32-bit.

  73,
  Larry N8LP



  On 3/25/2011 6:26 PM, Steve Ellington wrote: 

I recently loaded new firmware 4.31 and observed the following when used 
with PowerSDR-IF and LPPAN.
PowerSDR enters MUTE status when K3 buttons RIT, XIT, XMIT, Menu are used. 
Also happens when K3 is keyed with key or paddle. PowerSDR-IF MUTE triggers and 
will not disengage automatically but will release when clicked with mouse.
Has anyone else noticed?
Steve
N4LQ



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[Elecraft] K3 FW 4.31 problem

[Steve Ellington]

I recently loaded new firmware 4.31 and observed the following when used with 
PowerSDR-IF and LPPAN.
PowerSDR enters MUTE status when K3 buttons RIT, XIT, XMIT, Menu are used. Also 
happens when K3 is keyed with key or paddle. PowerSDR-IF MUTE triggers and will 
not disengage automatically but will release when clicked with mouse.
Has anyone else noticed?
Steve
N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FW 4.31 problem

[Steve Ellington]

Well I didn't mention that I'm also running Logger32 along with PWRSDR-IF from 
LP-Bridge I tried closing Logger32 but still, when I just tap the key, MUTE 
kicks on and won't go off until I click it with the mouse. Strange.

Steve
N4LQ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Greg 
  To: Steve Ellington 
  Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net ; lp-...@yahoogroups.com ; Wayne Burdick - N6KR, 
Elecraft 
  Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 FW 4.31 problem


  Steve,


  I just tried this and I get something a little different.  The mute button 
did not come on when I controlled RIT and XIT directly from the radio.  But 
with N1MM open and the command for CLEARRIT executes then the MUTE button on 
PowerSDR does come on.


  73
  Greg



  On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 3:26 PM, Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.com wrote:

I recently loaded new firmware 4.31 and observed the following when used 
with PowerSDR-IF and LPPAN.
PowerSDR enters MUTE status when K3 buttons RIT, XIT, XMIT, Menu are used. 
Also happens when K3 is keyed with key or paddle. PowerSDR-IF MUTE triggers and 
will not disengage automatically but will release when clicked with mouse.
Has anyone else noticed?
Steve
N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

[Steve Ellington]

This is getting out of hand. Vernon can't receive anything and someone 
suggest more radials! Come on guys.He has 8 radials and another 
hundred might make a few DB difference but certainly not enough to overcome 
a dead receiver.
A 10 ft. hank of hookup wire should yield plenty of good signals on 40 
meters especially at night.
Vernon needs something in his shack that he knows (works). The suggestion to 
buy the XG2 was a good one. Hooking up with another ham in the area would 
really help though. If someone lives close to Vernon they could probably be 
a big help.

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Vernon Mauery vmau...@gmail.com
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving


Don,

It looks like you and at least one other person have said that I need
more radials.  I will have to look into that.  Thank you for your
suggestion.

--Vernon N7OH

On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 4:59 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 Vernon,

 If your K3 is receiving static, I would tend to blame your problem on the
 antenna rather than the K3.
 However, there is a way to check the K3. Beg, borrow or purchase an
 Elecraft XG2 signal generator. That will give you a tool to produce a 50 
 uV
 signal (S-9) and also a tool to do MDS measurements on your K3.

 I do suspect your antenna. Verticals do not work well in all locations -
 good performance depends on your soil conditions, and 25 foot radials are
 likely not long enough. For a good ground screen with the 43 foot radial,
 you need at least 32 43 foot radial wires for it to be effective. A
 vertical works great right on the edge of salt water, but inland locations
 vary depending on the soil conditions. I have always been disappointed 
 with
 verticals.

 Actually, I suggest a more simplistic approach - use horizontal dipoles.
 Use the 43 foot vertical as a mast to hold up the center of a dipole. Get
 a 1:1 balun and construct a dipole for 40 and 20 meters. 2 radiator wires
 33 feet long and two 16 foot long these two antennas can run on a single
 feedline.. Run the center up to the top of your 43 foot mast and hang 
 the
 ends of the dipole wires as high as you can using whatever supports are
 available. You want an angle between the wires to be at an angle greater
 than 45 degrees. The two wires for 40 meters (the 33 ft long ones) should
 be in the same vertical plane, and the two wires for 20 meters should be 
 at
 right angles to the 40 meter wires to keep interaction to a minimum.

 You mentioned 10 meters. Propagation conditions may be a problem too. The
 higher HF bands do not have many signals during the hours of darkness, and
 10 meters may not have many signals during the day. 20 meters during the
 daylight hours is usually reliable and 40 meters at night will typically
 have good signals. During periods of greater sunspot activity, the higher
 frequency bands will show more activity, but during the recent sunspot
 minimum, there were times when 20 meters was barely usable, but conditions
 are improving.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:

 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help. I recently (last month) purchased a K3. First HF
 radio I have owned. I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF. I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters. I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver. I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold. I saved my pennies and purchased. I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard. It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun. The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters. I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could. I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something. Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.

 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4. I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static. As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency. I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands. I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard. I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.

 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit. I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving. The ATU seems to be able
 to find 

[Elecraft] K3 not recieving

[Steve Ellington]

 All this has nothing to do with his K3 but what about a Choke Balun? Is it 
 really a balun or is it a unun? We use the same device to feed a ground 
 mounted vertical to reduce RF on the coax and to feed a balanced dipole 
 with coax. It's both a balun and unun depending on how it's used.

 Steve
 N4LQ
 - Original Message - 
 From: Mike n...@nf4l.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 5:44 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving


 I've heard quite a few people use balun, when they meant impedence 
 transformer or unun.

 I heard somewhere (and the tapes have been erased) that the 43' length 
 came about
 because it was the most economical length for a manufacturer to cut stock 
 with the
 least waste to meet shipping limitations.

 73, Mike NF4L

 On 3/8/2011 5:29 PM, David Herring wrote:
 Here's a follow-on question to the reflector...

 Vernon's set-up brings a question to mind.  He says he's using a 4:1 
 balun on his vertical.  At first brush that seems counterintuitive, 
 doesn't it? Isn't a vertical unbalanced?  Certainly the coax is 
 unbalanced.  When you're mating an unbalanced feedline with an unbalanced 
 antenna, wouldn't one be better off using an unun rather than a 4:1 
 balun?

 In further support of my line of questioning, I've read numerous, albeit 
 anecdotal, reports of people being displeased with the performance of 
 their vertical, particularly the untuned ones like Zero-Five for example. 
 But when they add an unun they are then amazed at how the antenna 
 allegedly sprung to life.

 73,
 Dave  AH6TD

 On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:20 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:

 Yes.  I can see the S-meter go from 3-4 down with static down to
 nothing with quieter static.  My best guess is that I am not trying
 the right times at the right places.

 Thanks to everyone for the help.

 --Vernon N7OH

 On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 8:12 AM, Ross Primrose N4RPn...@aiko.com 
 wrote:
 Does the received noise decrease when you disconnect the antenna?

 73, Ross N4RP

 On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
 radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.

 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.

 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be able
 to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
 But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
 right?

 This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
 have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.

 --Vernon N7OH
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 FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the
 minimum transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired
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Re: [Elecraft] Look familiar? Elecraft vs Ten Tec

[Steve Ellington]

And of course you have all the advantages of a rig made in CHINA.

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Chuck Mabbott crmabb...@comcast.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2011 1:52 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Look familiar? Elecraft vs Ten Tec


 Everyone saw this???
 
 
Ten Tec [made in China]  pre-built
 Two Band CW QRP Transceiver - 40/20 Meters
 http://www.tentec.com/index.php?id=193
 Also has a 40/30 meter option..
 
 Original KX1 by Elecraft  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Firmware question / QRQ

[Steve Ellington]

I sure hope RIT with QRQ is in the works and not forgotten. 
Even at slow speed, QSK is much better in QRQ mode. 
No 2nd rx here so split isn't an option. 

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
To: Bruce Meier beme...@bellsouth.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2011 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Firmware question / QRQ


 Hi Bruce,
 
 You can do SPLIT in QRQ mode, and I recommend this as an alternative  
 to RIT, for now.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 On Jan 28, 2011, at 8:24 AM, Bruce Meier wrote:
 
 When the QRQ feature was added to the firmware, certain functions  
 were lost.
 (RIT, Shift, Split, etc.)   At that time, I believe the intent was  
 to add
 them back on future firmware revisions.Since then I don't  
 believe the
 'add back' has been mentioned.  If so, I missed it.

 Just wondering if/when that is going to happen?

 73,
 Bruce - N1LN
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Re: [Elecraft] APF measurements: FW 4.17 better results by 2 dB

[Steve Ellington]

FW pre-beta 4.16 release was actually the first to have APF, not 4.17. 
Here's an interesting comment made shortly APF was finally released to the 
public.
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-APF-td5735159.html#a5736718



 Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Arie Kleingeld PA3A p...@xs4all.nl
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2011 6:44 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] APF measurements: FW 4.17 better results by 2 dB


 Hello all,

 Did some measurements on the different frimware versions. This time not
 a BW-plot but  I measured S+N/N ratio's.


 I have no lab equipment but I have a K3 with dBV measurements, XG2 and
 the stepped attenuator from elecraft.
 I measured the difference of the K3 dBV-reading in signal off (=N) and
 signal on (=S+N)
 AGC off, mode CW, 400Hz BW and 400Hz Roofing.
 RX gain of the K3 has been calibrated with XG2 and the K3 utility.


 This is what I found.

 _FW 4.25 and 4.21 (both give the same measurement values):_
 At MDS level (stepped att on 20dB to reach this level)
 normal 400 Hz BW: S+N/N  = 3dB  (as expected, hi)
 400 Hz BW + dual PB: S+N/N = 10 dB

 Now signal level 6dB under MDS (26dB att instead of 20dB):
 normal 400 Hz BW: S+N/N  =   0.5 dB
 400 Hz BW + dual PB: S+N/N = 4 dB


 _FW 4.17_
 At MDS level (stepped att on 20dB)
 normal 400 Hz BW: S+N/N  = 3dB  (as expected)
 400 Hz BW + dual PB: S+N/N = 12 dB (THIS is 2 dB BETTER)

 Now signal level 6dB under MDS:
 normal 400 Hz BW: S+N/N  =   0.5 dB
 400 Hz BW + dual PB: S+N/N = 6 dB (THIS is 2dB BETTER)


 There are probably people that can measure this far more better than I
 did with better equipment.
 But this is what I can come up with here.

 73,
 Arie PA3A



 Op 27-1-2011 0:52, Barry N1EU schreef:
 Forget it - full stop!

 I just ran a spectral analysis of the current firmware versus the very 
 first
 APF implementation (mcu 4.17 dsp 2.65) from 11/3/10 AND THE PLOTS ARE
 ABSOLUTELY CONGRUOUS!  The APF implementation hasn't changed a bit (or a
 byte).

 Have a look:  http://n1eu.com/k3apf.gif

 magenta and green plots are taken with width = 200hz
 aqua and yellow plots are taken with width = 100hz

 Barry N1EU
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Re: [Elecraft] APF

[Steve Ellington]

Barry
From what I can tell. MCU 4.21/DSP 2.69/ etc. is when APF first appeared.
I had the same experience. In fact, I was actually leaving APF on most of 
the time until the newer version came along. I loved it..Now I seldom 
use it because it does more harm than good.
Maybe one's socks can only be blown off once?
Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Barry N1EU barry.n...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] APF



 Okay, what version of firmware has the original APF that worked better 
 for
 you guys?  I'll try and run a spectral comparison of the two and post the
 results.  I'm skeptical that there's a difference but I'm willing to give 
 it
 a go.

 Barry N1EU


 juergen piezo wrote:

 I like you cant get the same results with the current release of the APF
 that I go with the original.


 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/APF-tp5963894p5964585.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] (Very OT)Plasma TV noise

[Steve Ellington]

Chris
Take a transistor AM radio to Wal-Mart and walk past the TV sets. When you 
get near a plasma you will hear it. The LCDs are fairly quiet. Plasma set 
noise comes right off the screen and is strong enough to be heard for some 
distance. The only cure is to unplug the TV. They even radiate some when 
turned off!
I believe my neighbor has a Plasma set. It wipes out 80 meters mostly. I 
plan to find out soon and if necessary I'll help him replace it. 73
Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Chris Hembree w7...@yahoo.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 7:56 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] (Very OT)Plasma TV noise


I am helping a friend track down some RF noise that is riding on the Cable 
TV line. From CableONE TV and internet service.
 This noise is wiping out his 75/80 meter band.
 I am posting this because some of you have had Plasma TV noise, and I 
 don't know what that sounds like.
 Can someone send be a small audio clip of what this noise sounds like. I 
 think it is from the color frequency of the cable service.

 Sorry for being so OT on this one.
 Chris W7CTH



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 antenna tuner.

[Steve Ellington]

You almost have the ZS6BKW antenna. 45' on each side, 40' of 450 ohm window 
line and a 1:1 balun would make the best match. Don't even think about using 
a 4:1 balun!
http://www.nonstopsystems.com/radio/ZS6BKW-2.pdf
There are still a few bands that might be a problem with the auto tuner in 
the K3. I've found this to be a good general purpose antenna.

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: aa...@me.com
To: van fair g...@bellsouth.net
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2011 5:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 antenna tuner.




 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 19, 2011, at 1:40, van fair g...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 I am trying to decide on an antenna for use at a DX location for 40 
 meters and up for an upcoming trip to V4 land.

 I can put up an inverted V dipole at 40 feet high with a length of up to 
 45 feet on each side of center.  I plan to use a 4 to 1  Balun and 450 
 ohm window line 30 feet long.

 Anyone have any experience on how the K3 antenna tuner would handle this 
 antenna. on 40 through 10 meters.

 Thanks for your help. Van W4GIW  V47GIW a ham for 59 years.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Hears stations twice

[Steve Ellington]

I've heard the same thing but with many other receivers. It usually turns 
out that the transmitting station has a problem though. Low power supply 
voltage is a common cause of transmitted spurs. I know one guy in PA (state) 
who has a TS-450 with a spur down about 200Hz, weak but strong enough to be 
heard 600 miles away. I've told him about it several times but he says he 
has no idea what to do about it and continues to broadcast CW Stereo.

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: OE5CSP-Chris hans-christ...@gmx.at
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2011 5:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Hears stations twice



 Hi,

 During the Christmas holidays I spent a lot of time on 80m and I came 
 across
 the problem mentioned on the reflector some time ago.Sometimes I can hear 
 a
 strong station twice.Yesterday,for example I heard a strong German station
 on 3514 and a few khz down I heard the same signal again, but much 
 weaker.I
 did not use the NB or NR. This happened a few times already.Is this a 
 known
 issue and will it be fixed in the next firmware release?

 73,Chris-OE5CSP
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Hears-stations-twice-tp5865819p5902107.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Hears stations twice

[Steve Ellington]

Correction:
The PA station was running a Kenwood TS-570. His spur was down frequency 
about 400Hz. I have also head spurs from SGC 2020's and TenTec Paragons both 
caused by low PS voltage.

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.com
To: OE5CSP-Chris hans-christ...@gmx.at; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2011 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Hears stations twice


 I've heard the same thing but with many other receivers. It usually turns
 out that the transmitting station has a problem though. Low power supply
 voltage is a common cause of transmitted spurs. I know one guy in PA 
 (state)
 who has a TS-450 with a spur down about 200Hz, weak but strong enough to 
 be
 heard 600 miles away. I've told him about it several times but he says he
 has no idea what to do about it and continues to broadcast CW Stereo.

 Steve
 N4LQ
 - Original Message - 
 From: OE5CSP-Chris hans-christ...@gmx.at
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2011 5:29 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Hears stations twice



 Hi,

 During the Christmas holidays I spent a lot of time on 80m and I came
 across
 the problem mentioned on the reflector some time ago.Sometimes I can hear
 a
 strong station twice.Yesterday,for example I heard a strong German 
 station
 on 3514 and a few khz down I heard the same signal again, but much
 weaker.I
 did not use the NB or NR. This happened a few times already.Is this a
 known
 issue and will it be fixed in the next firmware release?

 73,Chris-OE5CSP
 -- 
 View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Hears-stations-twice-tp5865819p5902107.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: LDE defined

[Steve Ellington]

I've heard myself many times on 80m CW but not the higher bands where one 
would expect to hear your long path signal come back. It's still a mystery.

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Amateur Radio Operator N5GE n...@n5ge.com
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: LDE defined



 I agree, Doug.

 I've been a ham for 35 years now and have experienced the round the world 
 trip
 signals on CW during most good propagation when using QSK.  It's 
 interesting,
 but not that rare, especially when you are using high power and good 
 directional
 antennas.

 73,

 Tom Childers
 Radio Amateur N5GE
 Licensed since 1976
 QCWA Life Member 35102
 ARRL Life Member
 Retired Professional
 C# Software developer
 http://www.n5ge.net

 On Fri, 7 Jan 2011 14:14:24 -0500, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL doug...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

What is being described does not sound like the classic definition of an
LDE.

Google it and you find that many define LDE as a delay of at least 2 
seconds
(not milliseconds).  Millisecond delays sounds, to me, like hearing your 
own
Long Path signal or something else not well definedbut not LDE by the
usual definition

As usual, YMMV

de Doug KR2Q

 [snip]

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Re: [Elecraft] esd

[Steve Ellington]

TRANSVERTER

Trans (transceiver)
Verter (Converter)

If you have a transeiver that doesn't cover a desired band such as 2 meters, 
you can use a transverter to convert it so it does.

Like a K3It will not cover 2 meters so we use a transverter. This little 
box will convert all the 2 meter signals to  a band that the K3 can cover 
for example 10 meters. Also, this box can convert 10 transmit from the K3 to 
2 meters.

So there you have it. A transverter allows you to use an HF rig on VHF.

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: tony rowland biggsbigb...@yahoo.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 10:52 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] esd



wife say's when thinking of esd think CAT|||
my turn. will someone, in a nutshell, explain what a transverter is and why 
i might need one.
s/tony rowland
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[Elecraft] K3 TS590 Eagle Compared

[Steve Ellington]

Here is a photo of all 3 rigs from a post on the Eagle reflector. 

http://n4lq.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=110659922

WxHxD inches

K3 11.1 x 4.4 x 11.8  9.4lbs
TS-590 10.63 x 3.78 x 11.46   16.31lbs
Eagle 8.5 x 2.9 x 10.25 7.25lbs


Steve
N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3BSR

[Steve Ellington]

Dick
From what i can tell, k3bsr was written by WB8YQJ. I looked him up on 
QRZ.com and his email address is listed so you might try emailing him.
Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Edward Dickinson, III softb...@windstream.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3BSR


 Hi Tom,

 Thanks for the thought.  I've searched via Google...now twice.  In
 particular, K3BSR download yields a rather short list and produces 
 nothing
 useful that I can discern.

 Most of what I find there, as I indicated are links to references in
 archived Elecraft email reflector postings...some lead to screenshots.
 Additionally there are references to zerobeat.net which yield, The 
 webpage
 cannot be found.

 Am I overlooking something?  Do you know something I don't..?  If you have
 something useful,  then please...on with it.


 73,
 Dick - KA5KKT

 
 ---

 I try my best to be polite and suggest you simply do a Google search for
 K3BSR. That way you could find numerous references to the latest release.

 Tom - W4BQF


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Re: [Elecraft] Rig Comparison

[Steve Ellington]

Dave:

Sorry to dissapoint you but it's a photo (as I said). I copied the photo 
from the Yahoo Eagle group. You compare them visually. I own a K3 but not 
the other 2 rigs.

I keep hearing about how small the K3 is but in comparison to 2 recent 
competitors, it's the BIG DOG on the block.

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: David Yarnes w7...@cox.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 9:12 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Rig Comparison


 Steve,

 I appreciate your enthusiasm, but this is hardly a rig comparison!!!
 How about something with a little substance to it!


 Dave W7AQK



 ---
 Here is a photo of all 3 rigs from a post on the Eagle reflector.

 http://n4lq.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=110659922

 WxHxD inches

 K3 11.1 x 4.4 x 11.8  9.4lbs
 TS-590 10.63 x 3.78 x 11.46   16.31lbs
 Eagle 8.5 x 2.9 x 10.25 7.25lbs


 Steve
 N4LQ


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Re: [Elecraft] Inverted-L (was OT: Vertical antenna)

[Steve Ellington]

Logically .

You may as well have a big loss in the near-field and get it over with.

That way you'll have less to loose in the far field!


Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Guy Olinger K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net
To: Tony Estep estept...@gmail.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2010 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Inverted-L (was OT: Vertical antenna)


 The only thing I would point out about the article is that it
 basically is a tabulation of model results, an extension of the model
 presentation, what do you get if you run the model over and over kind
 of thing.  The modeling of dirt is in itself an attempt to extend a
 limited paradigm of MF measurements (aka commercial broadcast band),
 focused on measurements at the ground for very practical reasons
 (Norton-Sommerfield) and has its own set of  well-known issues.  It is
 quite common to model radial kinds of issues and then install a design
 and find quite different results.  Dirt, and all its variability,
 remains notoriously resistant to being modeled.  Modeling can, I say
 can, get one in the neighborhood and it's back to cut and measure,
 and a degree of common sense.

 73, Guy.

 On Mon, Dec 20, 2010 at 10:14 PM, Tony Estep estept...@gmail.com wrote:
 For those who wish to pursue the radials question further, here's one of 
 the
 many publications on the subject. This one is replete with numerous 
 tables
 and graphical representations of the incremental value of more and longer
 radials in various types of soil:

 http://www.ncjweb.com/k3lcmaxgainradials.pdf



 Tony KT0NY
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Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Naked

[Steve Ellington]

Mr. Happy likes the K3 No Solder Kit.


Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Rex Lint r...@lint.mv.com
To: 'Phil Townsend' phi...@mac.com; 'Barry' w...@comcast.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Naked


This same thing happened to me - I was about 35 at the time and I threw the
soldering iron across the room and it landed on the rya shag rug, burning an
outline of the iron into the wool rug.

I've still got the scar - see, right here...

and the project was a HW-202...

  -Rex-

 K1HI
Rex Lint
  Merrimack, NH
   WWW.QRZ.COM/db/k1hi



-Original Message-

 Phil Townsend wrote:

 I was 12 years old... I think it was a Heathkit HW ???
 I woke up early ready to sling solder. My bed was next to my
 shack/workbench.
 The parents and sister were all sleeping...
 Then it happened...
 A large blob of solder slipped off the iron onto Mr Happy! (My new best
 friend)
 Shrieking and shouting... the blob stuck.
 The noise from my room awakened Sister and her sleepover friend. (The one
 I had the sweets for.)
 They stormed into my room followed by Mom and Dad.
 Sisters friend was first into the room causing her to squeal as she tried
 to turn around and run out of the door she just came into.
 Thereby running into Sis and parents.
 The solder was still stuck and still hot.
 By parents wanted to call the Doctor...but I had enough humiliation for
 one day so my Mom gave me the ointment and that was that.
 Durring breakfast no one said anything about the early morning event.

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 -- 
 View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-ESD-tp5844885p5847272.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 for AM broadcast?

[Steve Ellington]

You will need the K3BCTX board. There has been a delay in production 
however.

N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: Mel Farrer farrerfo...@yahoo.com
To: R. Kevin Stover rksto...@mchsi.com; Phil Townsend phi...@mac.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2010 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 for AM broadcast?


With so much information and products out there for OUR PART 15 products and 
all
of the stuff offered on eBay for low power AM and FM, WHY would you want to
modify a wonderful and dedicated amateur radio?  Be Real.


Mel






From: R. Kevin Stover rksto...@mchsi.com
To: Phil Townsend phi...@mac.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sun, December 12, 2010 5:24:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 for AM broadcast?

-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1

Not even in the same neighborhood as reasonable.
I'm pretty sure the boys in Aptos wouldn't want one of their products
used as some sort of pirate AM station in deepest darkest Africa.

On 12/12/2010 5:59 PM, Phil Townsend wrote:
 I have a friend in Mali that wants to set up an AM radio some were out in 
 the
boonies.
 No Reliable AC power etc etc third world problems import duty tax endless 
 very
red tape.
 So the question is
 Can the K3 be made to transmit in the 1600 kc freq?
 25 to 50 watts.
 Is this even a reasonable idea?

 Sent from my iPad


- -- 
R. Kevin Stover

ACØH
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Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org/

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Re: [Elecraft] APF

[Steve Ellington]

One thing I've learned about using the APF is to keep the AF gain low. My 
theory is: The ringing caused by the narrow filter is slightly weaker than 
the desired tone. Reducing the audio gain tends to demphasize the unwanted 
effects.
So when you first turn on APF and you think YUK, this is horribleTry 
backing down the AF gain just to the point that you hear the desired tone 
and not the other junk. 73


Steve N4LQ



- Original Message - 
From: Sam Morgan k5oai@gmail.com
To: k5nu k...@ainternet.biz; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] APF


 sorry to fast on the trigger
 in my pea brain I had transposed the
 apf quite uneffective with the NR on
 into 'NR was quite ineffective on cw'

 my bad

 GB  73
 K5OAI
 Sam Morgan

 On 12/7/2010 2:26 PM, Sam Morgan wrote:
 I remember seeing it said that, using the NR was useless when you were 
 using
 narrow cw filters

 6) NR is rarely useful if the bandwidth is narrow. If you set your CW 
 width
 to 400 Hz or less, for example, there is no point in running NR *unless* 
 you
 want to use it as a sort-of smart squelch.
 http://www.elecraft.com/K3/Lyle%20Johnson%20explains%20Noise%20Reduction.htm

 GB  73 K5OAI Sam Morgan

 On 12/7/2010 2:18 PM, k5nu wrote:
 Fellow Elecrafters,

 Many of you have praised the current version of apf. Since I spend 99% 
 or
 more of my time listening for weak signals on 80m, it should be a very
 useful adjunct. How do you utilize the apf - with NR on or off? My
 particular preference for listening keeps the NR on - never off. I use 
 1-3
 or 1-4 on cw and find the apf quite uneffective with the NR on.

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[Elecraft] OT Improving key klix

[Steve Ellington]

Here's an excellent 3 page article from 1956. I wonder if Yaesu incorporated 
some of the ideas?
http://n4lq.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=108553476

Forgive the humor.
Steve
N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Shorting K3 PHONE jack outputs (WAS OT: Stereo to mono adapters)

[Steve Ellington]

How could a 2 circuit plug be mono since there is only 1 circuit?
N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Shorting K3 PHONE jack outputs (WAS OT: Stereo 
to mono adapters)


 On 12/3/2010 2:31 PM, James Sarte (K2QI) wrote:
 Now what am I to believe here???  If I understand what was written in
 the manual, then it's ok to use a mono plug in those jacks as they're
 buffered by a series of resistors.


 The manual is correct -- the HEADPHONE output is isolated with
 resistors. The SPEAKER output is NOT, and putting a two-circuit plug
 (mono plug) into it can cause the output chip to fail destructively.

 Again, the SCHEMATICS are on line. Study them.  We're hams. We passed
 exams showing that we know this stuff.

 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: New Sherwood report

[Steve Ellington]

Wouldn't having bad key clicks be an advantage in a contest?

Steve N4LQ



- Original Message - 
From: Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft e...@elecraft.com
To: David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: New Sherwood report


 They already have - See the keying bandwidth spectral plots in the ARRL 
 reviews. The FT-5000 is considerably wider than the K3.
 
 73, Eric  WA6HHQ
 ---
 
 On 12/1/2010 3:37 PM, David Gilbert wrote:

 A good start would be for someone ... hello ARRL? ...  to document key
 clicks.  A lot of good it does for me to have a rig with excellent 2 KHz
 BDR only to have everything ruined by key clicks from some Yaesu rig
 that neither the manufacturer nor the operator will fix.

 Dave   AB7E
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Re: [Elecraft] Plasma TV Noise any ideas on how to filter it out.

[Steve Ellington]

Glad to hear it helped. I could have used one tonight on 80m!
Plasma TVs are unique. The gas pixels are triggered by high voltage. This 
means there are thousands of conductors, high voltage and high current right 
on the screen. This makes a very nice transmitter that can broadcast for 
blocks.
We should get the word out about these somehow. Plasma TVs have many 
disadvantages over the LCD types including about 50% more power consumption, 
shorter life, screen burn-in problems, weigh more, produce a huge amount of 
heat, higher electric bills etc. Newer LCD/LED models are just as good now 
but they still offer plasma TVs in the stores.
OHI've seen a few post about concerns about XRAY radiation from plasma 
TVs. maybe health concerns would encourage folks to avoid them?

Steve N4LQ

- Original Message - 
From: gold...@charter.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Plasma TV Noise any ideas on how to filter it out.


 Update on my Plasma TV noise.

 I drove thru Cleveland yesterday and purchased a timewave ANC-4 and set
 it uptoday.

 Is it perfect?  No

 Does it work? Yes, it does enough nulling of the noise that I can use
 the K3 with my TV on.  It makes a significant difference in my receive.

 It would be interesting to also try a MFJ 1026 but I went this way
 instead.

 Thanks
 KD8NNU
 Don


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[Elecraft] Walmart Plasma Test

[Steve Ellington]

Today I paid a visit to Walmarts TV department. I brought along my portable AM 
radio. While tuned to a spot on the AM BC band, I walked along the row of 
dozens of flat screen TVs. There must be at least 50 of them! Suddenly the 
noise level jumped to a loud roar. I looked at the 42 set next to me and sure 
enough, it was a plasma. I started checking every set. Every plasma produced 
the loud QRM while every LCD/LED was quiet. 
There are not many plasma sets left but every brand was horrible. 
The noise sounds exactly like your typical power line noise but you can hear 
the pitch change as the video scene changes. When the screen goes totally 
black, like between commercials, the frequency changes greatly. 
I ran the little radio around the screen and really couldn't tell that the QRM 
was stronger at any given position. 
I'm fairly certain now that what I'm hearing on 80m is a plasma tv from my 
neighbor. Now I just have to figure out a way to approach them about replacing 
it. I may end up buying them one!
Steve N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Plasma TV and other non OT junque

[Steve Ellington]

Tom:
The same thing would happen if you went to Spain or Starkville, MS.

I've got the K3 and have some QRM from a plasma. The NB doesn't seem to 
respond well although it sounds very similar to your typical AC power line 
noise.

I wonder if Elecraft might have a plasma nearby and could run some test on 
the K3 NB possibly making some custom changes?

Steve N4LQ

- Original Message - 
From: Tommy Alderman alderm...@windstream.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, November 26, 2010 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Plasma TV and other OT junque


I have been mistaken (again)! I was under the impression this was basically
 an Elecraft technical, or at least semi-technical reflector?
 Last week I was in France and when I returned, I had over 860 emails. Of
 those 860 emails, 580 were on this reflector! Of those 580 emails, exactly
 27 had something to do with technical information about Elecraft products!
 As a relatively new K3/P3 owner I seriously question this reflectors 
 ability
 to provide Elecraft technical assistance when so much totally OT topics 
 are
 discussed ad-infinitum. I respectfully urge each of you to think about 
 what
 you are doing - please!
 73,
 Tom - W4BQF







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Re: [Elecraft] Plasma TV Noise any ideas on how to filter it out.

[Steve Ellington]

Will 14.3 Mhz distroy the plasma's power supply?
N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF vk4bof.elecr...@gmail.com
To: d...@w3fpr.com; gold...@charter.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2010 12:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Plasma TV Noise any ideas on how to filter it out.


 My pet hate!
 My 3 next door neighbours each have at least 2 of the damned plasma TV's.
 There is not alot you can do except to complain to the FCC / ACMA / 
 whatever your liocencing body is called about the interference.
 There's a reason that they (Plasma TV's) have been banned in the EU zone, 
 now you know what is was.
 I do have it on good authority that a transmission at high power on or 
 about 14.3MHz does wonders for the Plasma's power supplies though.
 maybe that me be an option.

 Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
 Innisfail, QLD, Australia
 Elecraft K3# 4257

  - Original Message - 
  From: gold...@charter.net
  To: d...@w3fpr.com
  Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2010 12:17 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Plasma TV Noise any ideas on how to filter it 
 out.


  Its my wifes TV I have to live with it.




  On Wed, Nov 24, 2010 at 8:41 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

   Don,
  
   Plasma TVs are like that - sounds like you need to line up for the
   Black Friday deals on TVs on Friday :-)
  
   73,
   Don W3FPR
  
   On 11/24/2010 8:10 PM, gold...@charter.net wrote:
   When our plasma TV is on it has a very strong interference that no
   combination of the NB, NR, or Filters have any effect on the K3.
  
   I am wondering if an active audio filtering system such as the DHL
   out
   of England may help.
  
   I have searched the web for ideas and I have not found anything for
   ideas on how to elemiante this problem.
  
   One thing I know for sure is that I took a day off and unplugged the
   TV
   and the bands were all workable today.  Ok I could hear but I need
   some
   more kick to be heard.
  
   KD8NNU
   Don
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 post SS observations

[Steve Ellington]

Another idea for hearing your own signal is at websdr.org. Pick a receiver, 
transmit and listen. Usually there is a delay of a couple of seconds.

Steve N4LQ


- Original Message - 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2010 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 post SS observations


 There is absolutely no substitute for hearing your own signal on the air.
 Not even the K3's built-in monitor.

 Commercial broadcast stations (at least when I was messing around in
 broadcast in the 50's and 60's) always had at least one monitor going that
 everyone could hear that was driven by a radio tuned to the actual on-air
 signal. It was not only reassured them about quality but was a 
 station-wide
 announcement if anything went down (at least in the little WKRP-sized
 stations I worked in).

 Smart Hams do the same, at least sporadically, for both 'phone and CW
 signals.

 You don't need a top tier receiver for use as a monitor. SSB capability is
 available cheap in many portable receivers. That also gives you a nifty
 portable for various things, such as chasing RFI or listening to the band
 away from the shack. Some even come with built-in recorders - solid state 
 or
 cassette tape.

 If you have the KDVR3 option you can transmit a recording while you tune 
 in
 your signal on the monitor. If not, it's still easy if you can hear a true
 zero beat like us OTs learned to do long ago. Just transmit into a dummy
 load and send a tone (or whistle or hum) while listening to the monitor.
 Tune the monitor for zero beat between the tone source (you, if whistling 
 or
 humming) and the audio from the monitor. Now you can record some
 transmission and listen critically on playback.

 Just don't forget to use the dummy load :-)

 Ron AC7AC



 -Original Message-

 Noticed two things with this contest. First, how many stations were
 occupying as much as 4 kHz of bandwidth. And, did you notice how man
 were using some form recorded exchanges/calls? And how many sounded
 absolutely terrible? I'm talking outright lousy distorted audio. Some
 I had to ask for a repeat item by item to get him to actually speak
 and not re-play the recording. I think they would be astounded and
 maybe embarrassed if they heard them selves on the air.
 I started using my KDVR3 but after hearing some of the others, I quit,
 not knowing how I really sounded. I know my mic sounds good. Will have
 to check this out soon with some on air recordings from friends.

 OK, who's got the Kool-Aid pitcher? Where are the nuts and pretzels?

 ...bc nr4c


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: USB port

[Steve Ellington]

Oh it's the Smiths again!

His call is N6MQL, Michael Aretsky.
Please identify yourself with your callsign or at least your real name.

N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com
To: li...@subich.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, November 19, 2010 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: USB port



 The audio is coming through the USB audio input. Not through an open mic 
 on the computer,

 That's right Joe, Once again you mis quote me. But then again, you have to 
 in order to make your point.  Maybe your computer doesn't have a USB 
 input, but mine does. Perhaps you don't use a K3USB adapter cable, but I 
 have. Your insults and personal attacts do nothing for you on the 
 reflector.  Why don't you keep that kind of thing off the reflector where 
 it belongs.

 T. Smith
 Short Wave Listener.



 Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 16:15:16 -0500
 From: li...@subich.com
 To: notforc...@hotmail.com
 CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: USB port


  The audio is coming through the USB audio input.

 Now you're changing the story. In the previous e-mail you
 said RS-232 input - now you say USB.

 Since the K3 has *NO* USB input or output, you obviously
 have something connected to the Line Out/Line In. In any
 case, you've proven how incredibly unreliable you are -
 and you still don't bother to sign your e-mail with a
 NAME AND CALLSIGN as required by the list policies.

 73,

 ... Joe, W4TV


 On 11/19/2010 2:27 PM, The Smiths wrote:
 
  No, that's not the case, but thanks for a good guess none the less. The 
  audio is coming through the USB audio input. Not through an open mic on 
  the computer, which doesn't exist. Furthermore I don't even need to 
  have the volume up on the K3 to see the audio on the scope, and there 
  is NO analog connections to the computer. However, I dont see Post 
  audio effects going on. In otherwords, I can only see pre-Notch etc 
  settings... Guess it's just a voodo rig...
 
  T Smith
  SWL
 
 
  Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 01:41:31 -0500
  From: li...@subich.com
  To: notforc...@hotmail.com
  CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: USB port
 
 
 
  I'm sorry, perhaps I'm mistaken, but I've already hooked up my K3
  using a serial to USB converter cable, and then turned on
  Spectrogram and found that the audio IS already there. Do I have a
  voodoo K3, or is someone else mistaken that this feature already
  exists?
 
  No, you probably don't realize that Spectrogram uses the default
  audio input device and that Windows systems commonly default to the
  computer's built-in microphone. You are probably getting nothing more
  than acoustic coupling between the K3 speaker and the computer's
  mic. This assumes that you have not intentionally configured the
  K3 and computer to use a cable between the K3 Line Out jack and the
  computer's Line In jack and made that the default.
 
  There is no audio connection to the K3 RS-232 port ... read the
  schematics!
 
  73,
 
  ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
  On 11/19/2010 12:32 AM, The Smiths wrote:
 
  I'm sorry, perhaps I'm mistaken, but I've already hooked up my K3 
  using a serial to USB converter cable, and then turned on Spectrogram 
  and found that the audio IS already there. Do I have a voodoo K3, or 
  is someone else mistaken that this feature already exists?
 
  T Smith
  SWL
 
  Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2010 20:20:33 -0500
  From: li...@subich.com
  To: k2qi@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: USB port
 
 
  Moving from RS-232 to USB for commands (CAT) is trivial - replace
  the DB9 with one of the FTDI devices that is a USB to RS-232
  converter built into the DB9 socket. However, that does not get
  you audio ...
 
  To do audio, you would need not only the USB converter but a hub
  and USB Audio CODEC (e.g. PCM8902 or similar). Then Elecraft
  would need to build controls for the USB CODEC (ADC/DAC) and do
  all the other software support - further burdening the K3 CPU.
 
  After all that, all you've done is move the USB soundcard, USB
  to serial converter and USB hub into the K3 and added a whole new
  level so support burden - providing operating system specific
  drivers for each version of Windows (along with the cost of
  signing drivers with Microsoft), specific drivers for each version
  of OS-X, and specific drivers for each unique version of LINUX.
  By the way ... depending on the USB Audio chip set (ADC/DAC) and
  USB hub, you might find yourself needing specific drivers for each
  chip (Audio, hub, control) *and* EEPROM to customize, control and
  serialize each of those chip!
 
  After all of that you have not provided any new capability for
  the K3. Other than adding at least $100 per unit in hardware,
  development, and ongoing support costs the only thing this exercise
  will accomplish is to relieve a relatively small number of users
  of the need to purchase a KUSB and allow them to keep 

[Elecraft] K3 voltage reading

[Steve Ellington]

Can someone take a look at their voltage reading on their K3's DISP-V window 
and tell me what they get with key down, full power output into 50 ohms? 
My PS shows 13.7v at it's terminals and the K3's display indicates 13.1v. I'm 
just wondering if there is excessive voltage drop on the power leads. I'm using 
the factory cable. I'm not sure if the K3 is indicating the voltage at rig's 
connector or the voltage on the final amp. transistors. 

Steve N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 voltage reading

[Steve Ellington]

Mine reads 13.1v on any band so it doesn't seem to matter.
Steve N4LQ

  - Original Message - 
  From: James Sarte (K2QI) 
  To: Steve Ellington 
  Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 10:08 AM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 voltage reading


  What band/frequency?  I want to replicate your exact test variables and 
revert with my results.

  James K2QI


  On Wed, Nov 17, 2010 at 10:02 AM, Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.com 
wrote:

Can someone take a look at their voltage reading on their K3's DISP-V 
window and tell me what they get with key down, full power output into 50 ohms?
My PS shows 13.7v at it's terminals and the K3's display indicates 13.1v. 
I'm just wondering if there is excessive voltage drop on the power leads. I'm 
using the factory cable. I'm not sure if the K3 is indicating the voltage at 
rig's connector or the voltage on the final amp. transistors.

Steve N4LQ
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  -- 

  73 de James K2QI
  President UNARC/4U1UN

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 voltage reading

[Steve Ellington]

Wow...That's a lot more drop than I have so I feel pretty good now!
I still wonder where the K3 is actually measuring. If its reading comes 
after a few chokes it would certainly make a difference.
N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: N2TK, Tony tony@verizon.net
To: 'Steve Ellington' n...@carolina.rr.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 10:13 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 voltage reading


 Hi Steve,
 Using the cable that came with my K3 I measure on the K3's meter display
 13.6V key up and 12.4 - 12.6V key down at 100W out on 10-20M. Roughly 1.2A
 in receive and 20A in transmit mode.

 N2TK, Tony

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Steve Ellington
 Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 10:03 AM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 voltage reading

 Can someone take a look at their voltage reading on their K3's DISP-V 
 window
 and tell me what they get with key down, full power output into 50 ohms?
 My PS shows 13.7v at it's terminals and the K3's display indicates 13.1v.
 I'm just wondering if there is excessive voltage drop on the power leads.
 I'm using the factory cable. I'm not sure if the K3 is indicating the
 voltage at rig's connector or the voltage on the final amp. transistors.

 Steve N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3:New APF what happened?

[Steve Ellington]

Bill:

Nice job. I figured all along it was either due to a brain problem or being 
female.

Steve N4LQ


- Original Message - 
From: Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO w5...@cybermesa.net
To: Bill W4ZV btipp...@alum.mit.edu; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3:New APF what happened?


 Very good summary of the technical facts, Bill.

 It's IMPULSE noise, everybody, not white noise or pink noise or any other
 kind of noise. Impulse noise is characterized by a very rapid transient
 rise-time producing a large nearly instantaneous spike in amplitude. It's
 literally the electrical equivalent of striking a bell sharply, as opposed
 to rubbing it.

 The other thing that can make this feature seem magical (in the absence of
 excessive ringing) is having it properly tuned, and by properly I mean
 within a few Hertz. The K3's CWT/SPOT capability is good, but it's often 
 not
 good enough for this degree of accuracy. Mine usually tunes to within +/- 
 10
 Hz, but that's not always close enough for the APF to work at its best. 
 The
 signal needs to be fine-tuned by ear, IMO, against the sidetone PITCH
 frequency. Most people can hear the difference between two tones down to 1
 Hz or less. (BUT, some people CAN'T. It's a brain thing. Your brain can
 either do this or it can't. My XYL couldn't do this if her life depended 
 on
 it, as she is completely tone-deaf.)

 So maybe we can agree that there are a lot of variables at work here that 
 we
 can't control for. I thought at first that the current release was less
 ringy than the earlier release; I was fooled by a difference in band 
 noise.
 Since then, I've seen the APF feature behave quite differently on 
 different
 bands at different times. So, if it makes it easier to copy a given 
 signal,
 use it, and if it doesn't, leave it turned off. It's a tool. All tools are
 not appropriate for all jobs all the time. You have to choose your tools 
 and
 when to use them.

 Bill W5WVO



 -Original Message- 
 From: Bill W4ZV
 Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 15:35
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3:New APF what happened?



 N2TK wrote:

 John,
 Maybe the impact of the APF is a moving target influenced by the band
 conditions at the time?
 Yesterday morning 160M was very quiet. I could not hear the VK6 without
 the
 APF. When I turned on the APF the VK6 popped out of the band noise and 
 was
 easily copyable. There was no hint of ringing even with the bandwidth 
 down
 to 50HZ.

 Last night as usual in the evenings here 160M was noisy. When I turned on
 the APF it still did its magic. But there was almost a trace of 
 ringing.

 I need to play more with it to see if it is a definite pattern comparing
 between quiet and noisy band conditions.


 Ringing is a function of how much impulse noise (i.e. lightning induced,
 electric fencer ticks, key clicks, etc) hits the filter.  No impulse 
 noise
 = no ringing,  lots of impulse noise = continuous ringing.  As you said,
 yesterday morning 160m was stone quiet and the background noise was
 non-impulsive or white noise.  Last night a strong cold front moved across
 the Southeastern states which had lightning associated with the front. 
 The
 lightning strikes created impulse noise which caused the filter to ring 
 more
 than in the morning.  This effect is present in any narrow filter, whether
 analog or digital, and there's really not much that can be done to avoid 
 it.
 Reducing AF Gain is about the only solution to attenuate the continuous
 ringing sound but that also attenuates the signal you're trying to hear.

 73,  Bill
 -- 
 View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/RX-architecture-tp5746603p5748164.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Unable to download 4.22

[Steve Ellington]

Usually I have to open the beta link in another tab or copy and paste the 
URL in a fresh browser window. Then once there, a refresh is often required 
to bring up the new version.
Steve N4LQ

- Original Message - 
From: JAMES ROGERS w4...@bellsouth.net
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 3:39 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Unable to download 4.22


I have been attempting to download 4.22 all day using two different
 browsers, IE and Safari. Is the ftp site down?

 73s Jim, W4ATK

 JIM ROGERS
 w4...@bellsouth.net
 http://web.me.com/jimrogers_w4atk




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

[Steve Ellington]

The magic is only good for one shot Joe.
Same thing happened when I saw the Grand Canyon for the second time.

Steve

- Original Message - 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
To: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 9:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF



 I'm still in a quandry :)

 I am too G.  The measured results are rather clear but I
 miss the magic results I saw with 4.16 ...

 The feeling I get with 4.21 is that the Q has been reduced
 compared to 4.16 but since the quantitative data shows that's
 obviously not the case, I'll just need to continue working
 with it to see if I can regain the magic.  Maybe it is just
 conditions ... noise levels have been a lot lower the last
 couple days but there haven't been as many weak signals either.

 73,

... Joe, W4TV

 On 11/13/2010 11:48 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
 Joe,

 If Lyle is using the same algorithm as before, and your results are as
 indicated below (virtually a tie), I don't understand how you could be
 hearing a lack of ringing in the new revision. I simply cannot hear
 any difference myself, and I'm extremely picky. We have nearly 100
 people testing, and only two or three have perceived a difference, so
 given the statistical evidence, I'd suggest that background noise
 conditions are the variable here, not the firmware. Lyle has also
 completely reviewed the DSP implementation -- no change.

 But since the customers are always right, I'm still in a quandry :)

 tnx
 Wayne

 On Nov 13, 2010, at 6:27 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


 I'll count this as another vote in favor of adding the Variable Q
 setting...

 Not on your life. The lack of ringing on the newer version seems to
 go along with a general decline in effectiveness. If anything I'd
 prefer to see higher Q.

 Just for grins I reloaded 4.16 to make the same measurements using the
 XG-2 as I made on 4.21. Here is the comparison:

 BW 4.21 4.16
 -
 0 dB 1 2 Hz
 -1 dB 8 9 Hz
 -6 dB 31 31 Hz
 -10 dB 52 49 Hz
 -20 dB 165 162 Hz
 -30 dB 345 351 Hz
 Gain 9.0 9.1 dB

 Unlike W4ZV, I found only a 3 Hz offset in 4.16 (the peak response
 was 3 Hz above zero beat - or the indicated spot/shift frequency).
 Even though the test results were generally the same within the
 measurement tolerances, I still feel the 4.16 version was more effective
 in on air listening.

 These measurements were generated with an XG-2 set for 1 uV with the
 K3 attenuator engaged for an effective signal level of -118 dBm.

 73,

 ... Joe, W4TV

 On 11/13/2010 8:07 PM, The Smiths wrote:

 I'll count this as another vote in favor of adding the Variable Q
 setting... At least a choice of 3 perhaps Wide, Med and Narrow. Even
 if one perceives the APF as less ringy and comments on it being a
 good thing, that means that they are happy to know that the Q got
 widened out a little, and things seem to sound better.

 From: w5...@cybermesa.net
 To: li...@subich.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 21:19:46 +
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

 Joe wrote:

 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

 Joe, I agree with your subjective observation. No, the signals don't
 pop
 as much -- but there is less ringing. This is a trade-off, of
 course, and
 the precise balance of peak gain versus ringing is always going to be 
 a
 matter of personal preference.

 I like this less-ringy version better, I think. Haven't had time to
 play
 with it a lot yet, but I will. I'm sure we will see many other
 opinions. So
 far, I think the current version is very smooth and adequately 
 peaky.

 (Opinion subject to revision upon more extensive usage.)

 Bill W5WVO


 -Original Message-
 From: Joe Subich, W4TV
 Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 20:35
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF


 I made a similar set of measurements ... using the XG-2 and
 the AFV/dBV capability ...

 I measure the peak at 1 Hz wide (e.g. -.1dB +/- 1 Hz)
 the 1 dB points are 8 Hz wide
 the 6 dB points are 31 Hz wide
 the 20 dB points are 165 Hz wide
 the 30 dB points are 345 Hz wide
 gain is right at 9 dB.

 The measurements were made on 40 Meters with the XG-2 set to
 1 uV and the K3 attenuator activated yielding a -108 dBm test
 signal.

 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

 73,

 ... Joe, W4TV


 On 11/13/2010 1:24 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:

 For my own curiosity I did some measurements of the 

Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

[Steve Ellington]

Who is The Smiths? 
Sure are touchy little guys aren't they? Smart too!

N4LQ
Steve

  - Original Message - 
  From: The Smiths 
  To: n...@carolina.rr.com ; k2qi@gmail.com ; k6...@sbcglobal.net 
  Cc: Elecraft Reflector ; d...@w3fpr.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 3:07 PM
  Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?


  What kind of thing is that to tell someone??? It may take months to get your 
K3 back??? First off, have you even bothered to ask Elecraft how long their 
back log is??? 
   
  Second, How about you just order a new board under warranty and do an 
advanced replacement returning the bad board when you exchange it out. You've 
obviously proven that you're capable of digging into the K3 on your own and 
getting things done.  Swapping a board is nothing.

  Furthermore, telling someone to short out a choke that was put there for a 
reason is an even worse idea, whether it would work or not isn't the question. 
You're just asking for problems later when something else goes wrong. Doing 
that to TEST something is fine, but to repair it, no thank you.. I'm glad I 
didn't bring my rig to your shop...
   
   
   From: n...@carolina.rr.com
   To: k2qi@gmail.com; k6...@sbcglobal.net
   Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 23:16:07 -0500
   CC: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; d...@w3fpr.com
   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?
   
   Just bypass it with a piece of wire. It probably won't matter.
   It might take months to get your K3 back!
   
   N4LQ
   Steve
   
   - Original Message - 
   From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
   To: Gene Langendorff k6...@sbcglobal.net
   Cc: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; d...@w3fpr.com
   Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 10:56 PM
   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?
   
   
Gene et all,
   
I reheated the contacts on RFC4 to the point that I think I even slightly
warped the casing of the choke on one side. No good. No continuity at 
all
from any of the trace points or direct contact with the chokes leads.
   
Looks like RFC4 is dead and K3 #2730 will have to go back to Aptos for
repair.
   
73 de James K2QI
   
On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 10:02 PM, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:
   
   
   
On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:04 PM, Gene Langendorff 
k6...@sbcglobal.netwrote:
   
I had the same symptom on my year old newly completed K3 kit a few 
months
ago (S/N 3172). With Gary's guidance found the trouble to be one of 
the
surface mount chokes (RFC3 or RFC4) between the paddles jack (J12) and
the
board needed resoldering. Check for continuity with your ohmmeter and
you
will probably find one of them not connected. Carefully resolder each
end
while applying downward pressure, one end at a time, and it should 
work.
   
Gene K6TTM
   
   
   
   
   
   
-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

[Steve Ellington]

James;
Congratulations. You did everything right. Consulted with users, located 
defective part, bypassed the choke with wire as suggested and order 
replacement. That's exactly what I would have done.
A job well done! 73
N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
To: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?


 Hi Ron,

 Yes, replacement of the whole RF board would be very time and labor
 intensive; certainly something that I'd like to avoid at all possible
 costs.  I would rather send the K3 back to Aptos, and use my Icom in the
 interim, then take the K3 apart to that level.

 Just last night, I removed the side panel with handle, the rear panel and
 everything attached to it.  I also removed the KIO3 and transverter board 
 so
 I could see what was on the other side of the RF board under the choke.
 Putting it back together, I had to spend some time looking at the manual -
 not because I couldn't remember how it was assembled, but because I
 couldn't recall the different screw sizes and types and which holes they
 thread in to.  I can only imagine how much longer it would take me if I 
 had
 to swap the whole RF board out!

 Anyway, I've asked Dale to send me two of the RFC4 chokes in case I damage
 one while performing the swap.  If I can't get it right, then I'll send 
 the
 K3 back to Aptos.

 73 de James K2QI


 On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 4:35 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:

 You handled it just like I would, James, and I've repaired communications
 equipment, LF through microwave, professionally as well as built 
 countless
 kits and scratch-built Ham rigs, many of my own design.

 I don't know if the fellow behind The Smiths built his K3 from a kit, 
 but
 you and I both know that replacing the RF board is a big job involving
 completely disassembling the K3 back to a kit except for the front 
 panel
 assembly. I've done it. Time is required, just as with the original
 assembly. Rushing, while assuming one remembers exactly what to do, will
 certainly lead to time-consuming mistakes.

 RF chokes on leads leading outside the rig are for RF suppression - to 
 keep
 RF in or, in this case, certainly to keep RF that might trigger the 
 circuit
 out.

 You'd know instantly if there was a problem.  Your rig would key when you
 operated something else, or stick in transmit if it's own RF trigger the
 key
 line.

 In your situation I'd replace the choke too, but if it were too difficult
 to
 get to, I'd add a similar value choke to points I could reach physically 
 as
 close to the existing choke as possible.

 73,

 Ron AC7AC




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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

[Steve Ellington]

I wonder if the solder joint for the K3's key jack is cracked. I've had that 
happen on other rigs. Shine a bright light on  the solder joint and use a 
magnifying glass to examine.
N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
To: Rick Prather k6limae...@gmail.com
Cc: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?


 Hi Rick,

 It was plugged into the Paddle jack.  I just replied to Don; did a test
 where I removed the plastic plug cover and inserted the plug into the 
 paddle
 jack.  I shorted tip to ground and got dits.  Shorted ring to ground
 produces nothing.

 I even checked the continuity on the plug itself; all contacts are good.
 Looks to me like there might be something wrong with the K3's jack or
 perhaps something more... not sure yet.

 Tnx,
 James K2QI
 On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 8:09 PM, Rick Prather k6limae...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 James,

 Did you plug in to the Paddle plug or the Key plug?

 Rick
 K6LE

 On 11/13/2010, at 3:53 , James Sarte wrote:

  What am I doing wrong? I hooked up an old iambic paddle to the K3 a few
  moments ago.  Left paddle works fine; gives me a string of dots.  Right
  paddle doesn't do anything.  I checked continuity on tip, ring, and
 ground
  and everything tests fine.  Is there something I'm not doing right with
 the
  K3??
 
  --
  73 de James K2QI
  President UNARC/4U1UN




 -- 
 73 de James K2QI
 President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

[Steve Ellington]

Just bypass it with a piece of wire. It probably won't matter.
It might take months to get your K3 back!

N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
To: Gene Langendorff k6...@sbcglobal.net
Cc: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; d...@w3fpr.com
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?


 Gene et all,

 I reheated the contacts on RFC4 to the point that I think I even slightly
 warped the casing of the choke on one side.  No good.  No continuity at 
 all
 from any of the trace points or direct contact with the chokes leads.

 Looks like RFC4 is dead and K3 #2730 will have to go back to Aptos for
 repair.

 73 de James K2QI

 On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 10:02 PM, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:



  On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:04 PM, Gene Langendorff 
 k6...@sbcglobal.netwrote:

 I had the same symptom on my year old newly completed K3 kit a few 
 months
 ago (S/N 3172).  With Gary's guidance found the trouble to be one of 
 the
 surface mount chokes (RFC3 or RFC4) between the paddles jack (J12) and
 the
 board needed resoldering.  Check for continuity with your ohmmeter and
 you
 will probably find one of them not connected.  Carefully resolder each
 end
 while applying downward pressure, one end at a time, and it should 
 work.

 Gene K6TTM






 -- 
 73 de James K2QI
 President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with beta 4.18

[Steve Ellington]

Eric
It really does do thatTurn APF's shift up to 1 khz and see. No biggie 
but shouldn't happen.
N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft e...@elecraft.com
To: dalej dal...@mac.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2010 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problem with beta 4.18


 Make sure you checked 'LOAD ALL' in K3Util when loading f/w into the K3. 
 You must always  include the fpf and other files when upgrading. All are 
 in the beta .zip file.

 73,
 Eric

 www.elecraft.com
 _..._



 On Nov 6, 2010, at 5:01 AM, dalej dal...@mac.com wrote:

 I loaded beta 4.18 again direct to the K3 bypassing P3 and same problem 
 with crackling audio.  I now reverted back to beta 4.17 and all is fine 
 again.

 73
 Dale, k9vuj
 S/N 2268


 On 06, Nov 2010, at 6:13, dalej wrote:

 I just loaded this beta version 4.18 and now I get loud crackling from 
 the speaker when tuning though the APF filter, also, the audio goes 
 away.  I uploaded the firmware though the P3 twice, once power on P3 and 
 the second time power off with the same results.  I will next try 
 loading the firmware directly into the K3.  If I have the same result, I 
 will then revert back to the previous version, beta 4.17, which worked 
 fine including the power out.

 73
 Dale, K9VUJ
 S/N 2268

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[Elecraft] K3 160m Current High

[Steve Ellington]

On 160m, according to my Aston's meter, current drain is about 21 amps when key 
down @100W. That's several amps higher than other bands. If I run 100W CW for 
long, the rig kicks down to low power mode. SWR is 1:1. 
I tried the TX calibration just to see what happensNo change. I had to 
reduce power to keep it from happening.

Also, a question about the K3's DISP of current. When key down, what is it 
displaying? It's showing about 5 Amps and I know that's not right. Can't find 
anything in the manual that tells the meaning.
N4LQ
Steve
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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] APF [1 Attachment]

[Steve Ellington]

That's no doubt the most awesome demo yet!
N4LQ
Steve

  - Original Message - 
  From: lloyd chastant 
  To: elecraft...@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, November 05, 2010 5:00 PM
  Subject: [Elecraft_K3] APF [1 Attachment]



  [Attachment(s) from lloyd chastant included below]
   
  Been using ver 4.17 last few days and sure seems to work AOk..This wav
  is of a fairly weak signal on the 500Khz and sure seems to pull it
  out of the noise..
  de Lloyd W3NF


  __._,_.___
  Attachment(s) from lloyd chastant

  1 of 1 File(s) 

   APF.wav
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[Elecraft] K3 APF Increases electric bill

[Steve Ellington]

While tuning across 80m last night, with APF turned on, I heard a VE6 calling 
CQ. He wasn't very strong and not discernable on the SDR bandscope but his CW 
was as clear as a bell in the headphones. So I gave him a call and got no 
response. He called CQ again so I turned off the APF and his signal became 
totally unreadable in the noise. 
I'm guessing but under these conditions I believe I realized a 10db improvement 
in SNR. For the VE6 to copy me I would need to run  at least 1,000 watts but 
even that would likely not be enough because the K3 alone puts me at a transmit 
disadvantage. 

So I demand a refund for this APF thingOh waitI forgotIt's free. 

Will Elecraft pay my electric bill?

Steve N4LQ
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[Elecraft] K3 APF Ringing Reduction Trick

[Steve Ellington]

If APF seems overly aggressive, try reducing the RX-EQ's 800 and/or 400 Hz 
bands by a few DB. I'm finding the EQ settings reall affect how APF sounds.

Steve N4LQ
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[Elecraft] K3 APF YouTube Video

[Steve Ellington]

Not very good but hopefully gives some idea of what it does. Also, when I said 
2.7 mhz, I meant 2.7 Khz!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORhcZrMegz4

Steve
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF Adjustable Q

[Steve Ellington]

If I had a choice between variable center frequency and adjustable Q, I 
would choose adjustable Q.

My logic is: The center frequency automatically follows the sidetone 
frequency so I have no need to adjust it however the fixed Q has a bit of 
ring and at times I would like to back it off (widen) it just a tad.

Otherwise it's a HUGE improvement, sounds great and I wish to thank those 
who made it possible.

73
N4LQ
Steve

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF Adjustable Q

[Steve Ellington]

If the caller is off frequency I would just use RIT to center him in my 
passband as usual and let APF do it's thing.
Having used outboard APFs for years, the ability to adjust it's selectivity 
is very important. If the band is quiet and the signal is very weak, I would 
adjust the APF nearly to the point of oscillation then back it off a tad. If 
the signal is weak but there is a lot of QRN, I would back off the 
selectivity a bit further but still take advantage of some extra peaking 
capability.

N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2010 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF Adjustable Q



 however the fixed Q has a bit of ring and at times I would like to
  back it off (widen) it just a tad.

 This is the same mistake Yaesu made in the FT-1000D; de-Qing the
 original APF made it useless in later radios.  This is the very
 reason not to add adjustable Q or reduce the Q of the APF currently
 in field test.  If you want a less aggressive filter that is centered
 on the sidetone, use Dual PB ... that's exactly what it is designed
 to do (and it does a very good job when used as designed).

 Adjustable center frequency is very important ... particularly when
 PB CTRL is set for Shift=.05 (to allow LO-CUT-HI to function) as
 the 50 Hz increments too course to tune APF using the VFO.  The user
 also needs the ability to adjust the peak independently in order to
 peak up an off frequency caller and not chase them up the band.

 73,

... Joe, W4TV


 On 10/31/2010 8:58 AM, Steve Ellington wrote:
 If I had a choice between variable center frequency and adjustable Q, I
 would choose adjustable Q.

 My logic is: The center frequency automatically follows the sidetone
 frequency so I have no need to adjust it however the fixed Q has a bit of
 ring and at times I would like to back it off (widen) it just a tad.

 Otherwise it's a HUGE improvement, sounds great and I wish to thank those
 who made it possible.

 73
 N4LQ
 Steve

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF Adjustable Q

[Steve Ellington]

 to tune APF using the VFO.  The user
 also needs the ability to adjust the peak independently in order to
 peak up an off frequency caller and not chase them up the band.

 73,

 ... Joe, W4TV


 On 10/31/2010 8:58 AM, Steve Ellington wrote:
 If I had a choice between variable center frequency and adjustable Q, 
 I
 would choose adjustable Q.

 My logic is: The center frequency automatically follows the sidetone
 frequency so I have no need to adjust it however the fixed Q has a bit 
 of
 ring and at times I would like to back it off (widen) it just a tad.

 Otherwise it's a HUGE improvement, sounds great and I wish to thank 
 those
 who made it possible.

 73
 N4LQ
 Steve

 -- 
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF Adjustable Q

[Steve Ellington]

Joe
What you describe is not 'variable'.
N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
To: Guy Olinger K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2010 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF Adjustable Q



 What I have been trying to point out is that there is a general
 benefit for a milder shape, that one MAY leave on all the time,
 and tweak to tight as needed.

 If you want a milder shape, use Dual PB filter with a 400 - 500 Hz
 background and 100 Hz foreground.  That can certainly be left on
 all the time and the APF switched on when needed ... at least once
 all of the controls have been programmed.

 73,

... Joe, W4TV


 On 10/31/2010 12:03 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
 I'd say for variable Q, the tightest setting should be just what is
 there now.  So no one is losing anything.

 What I have been trying to point out is that there is a general
 benefit for a milder shape, that one MAY leave on all the time, and
 tweak to tight as needed.  MP's EDSP, 450 Hz sidetone, NR=D, Contour=
 11 oclock as an example of a mild contour that is really helpful.

 Being able to tune the APF tight setting around allows me to match the
 tone of the almost ring to the remembered tone of the weak station
 and have it come up when I hit it.

 If the choice is sharp or no APF and no APF tune, I have to RIT the
 station to sidetone.  This has a couple of disadvantages.

 First, if running in a contest, and there are very loud stations up
 and down (aren't there always?), RIT up and down is going to let the
 co-channel guys in under the roofing filter and into pre-APF digital
 space. That can't be useful.  Second, continuing to tune the station
 in becomes hard if the station stops or fades out because there is
 nothing to calibrate the completion of RIT twiddle other than
 hearing the tone from the station move to sidetone, and now it's
 stopped or faded.

 The presence of APF tune, or variable Q does not disadvantage anyone
 who doesn't need them, the same way all the really neat digital stuff
 does not disadvantage the straight CW operators.  The current setting
 and shape of APF is definitely the right max Q setting, and does very
 well for me.

 I just want a mild Q setting to imitate the shape I had with the MP
 all those years.  Those who hear it will get it, just like those that
 hear the sharp APF for the first time and try it, get it.  I think a
 lot of people will leave a mild Q on ALL THE TIME for general
 operating.  It lowers the level of the stuff up and down a little
 without any ringing, but still allows one to hear up and down for off
 frequency callers.  For me it's an EASIER listen for hours on end.

 73, Guy.

 On Sun, Oct 31, 2010 at 10:47 AM, Steve Ellingtonn...@carolina.rr.com 
 wrote:
 If the caller is off frequency I would just use RIT to center him in my
 passband as usual and let APF do it's thing.
 Having used outboard APFs for years, the ability to adjust it's 
 selectivity
 is very important. If the band is quiet and the signal is very weak, I 
 would
 adjust the APF nearly to the point of oscillation then back it off a 
 tad. If
 the signal is weak but there is a lot of QRN, I would back off the
 selectivity a bit further but still take advantage of some extra peaking
 capability.

 N4LQ
 Steve

 - Original Message -
 From: Joe Subich, W4TVli...@subich.com
 To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2010 10:27 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF Adjustable Q



 however the fixed Q has a bit of ring and at times I would like to
 back it off (widen) it just a tad.

 This is the same mistake Yaesu made in the FT-1000D; de-Qing the
 original APF made it useless in later radios.  This is the very
 reason not to add adjustable Q or reduce the Q of the APF currently
 in field test.  If you want a less aggressive filter that is centered
 on the sidetone, use Dual PB ... that's exactly what it is designed
 to do (and it does a very good job when used as designed).

 Adjustable center frequency is very important ... particularly when
 PB CTRL is set for Shift=.05 (to allow LO-CUT-HI to function) as
 the 50 Hz increments too course to tune APF using the VFO.  The user
 also needs the ability to adjust the peak independently in order to
 peak up an off frequency caller and not chase them up the band.

 73,

 ... Joe, W4TV


 On 10/31/2010 8:58 AM, Steve Ellington wrote:
 If I had a choice between variable center frequency and adjustable Q, 
 I
 would choose adjustable Q.

 My logic is: The center frequency automatically follows the sidetone
 frequency so I have no need to adjust it however the fixed Q has a bit 
 of
 ring and at times I would like to back it off (widen) it just a tad.

 Otherwise it's a HUGE improvement, sounds great and I wish to thank 
 those
 who made it possible.

 73
 N4LQ
 Steve

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