Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues
Brett, I believe the answer to most of your fears is to purchase a new screwdriver and yes, make up that BOM list and place an order. Replace what needs replacing and be done with it. While you are replacing, check the grounding points on the panels and you may have some improvement in grounding afterwards. If you are camming out screws with your current screwdriver, then it is likely they are not adequately tightened either. 73, Don W3FPR Brett Howard wrote: Ok I know I need to buy new screwdrivers. I'm in the process of buying a set of Whia drivers. I feel that the driver I've been using fits fairly well but the Whia set I have at work seem to fit a little better. Anyway I'm starting to have issues with my bottom front panel after getting into this radio as many times as I have... After the DVR, the audio low pass filter, several additions of filters, the sub RX, and every mod on the website (except for the resistor change for the P3) I'll be doing it when the P3 arrives... __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues
While some in this forum marvel at the way things go together in this radio, I was not pleased with the standoff situation. Using screws to attach standoffs in later to be inaccessible locations, and adjusting standoff lengths with stacks of washers is acceptable in a homebrew or prototype radio, but I think that in a production piece they should be of the correct length and permanently staked into place. Flame away. Wes N7WS --- On Wed, 12/30/09, Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com wrote: From: Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Cc: pa...@elecraft.net Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 3:29 AM Ok I know I need to buy new screwdrivers. I'm in the process of buying a set of Whia drivers. I feel that the driver I've been using fits fairly well but the Whia set I have at work seem to fit a little better. Anyway I'm starting to have issues with my bottom front panel after getting into this radio as many times as I have... After the DVR, the audio low pass filter, several additions of filters, the sub RX, and every mod on the website (except for the resistor change for the P3) I'll be doing it when the P3 arrives... Anyway the center most screw position was the one giving me the most fits before. This wasn't near as big of an issue when I didn't have the sub receiver. But now that I have that piece in place being able to put a screwdriver on the top side has become much more work intensive. I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws from the board side so that Its very easy to remove the screws from the bottom and I figured if I ever had to replace the RF board that replacing a few standoffs at the same time would be easy... Anyway I've cammed out of some of the flat head screws ever so slightly here and there and Elecraft graciously provided me with a few replacements to get rid of the ones that were starting to look bad. But this other issue is starting to get really quite ugly. I've gotten to the point where I no longer want to even try opening it because of how far I have too take it apart because of these issues. I got an FM filter for Xmas and because the left front screw and the center most screw wouldn't come out of the bottom I ended up having to pull the front panel and the sub RX in order to install a filter. (granted the Sub RX had to come out partially to get the filter in place but had to come out all the way for the other work). Anyway I think I'd like to replace some of these parts with new ones as the excessive use and attempts with lock-tite have been less than successful. I'm wondering if I should try to make up a BOM of what I need from the Elecraft manual (using elecraft part numbers of course) and then place an order or if I should just head to my parts catalog house and try there. Finally my last question quite concerns me I've noted that from several applications on and off that the board has gotten scratched here and there around the screw holes. Being that these are commonly ground points I'm quite worried that I'm not getting the grounding that I should... Just after installing the FM filter I noted that when I plug my mic into the front panel that I get about a .5S unit drop in noise level when the mic is plugged in. Granted I think this is the first time I've even listened to the radio w/ the mic unplugged (even though I rarely ever use it)... But this makes me wonder what may be up here FWIW I have put shorting wires around the L's in the back for the Improving the immunity of the Rear-Panel RS232 and Audio Connectors to RF modification. I greatly appreciate any advice. Sorry for asking these questions in this format with so much unfounded fear but I ask as I don't really have the time to do a lot of trial an error and documentation/testing like I'd like in order to make the right decision. I kinda figure that those with many of these around would be able to much more quickly answer to questions such as what happens if some of those ground connections are less than optimal... If all else fails and the compromised grounds causes issue I think with some exacto and copper tape work I can make those areas very robust to lock washers. Greatly appreciated gentlemen. ~Brett (KC7OTG) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list:
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues
On Dec 30, 2009, at 2:29 AM, Brett Howard wrote: I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws from the board side snip I have also considered using either a drop of blue loctite or a tiny bit of Phil's grease as a thread locker / vibration protection for the screws in my K1 and was wondering if anyone had any first hand experience to report. Byron KI6NUL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues
Byron, I would hesitate to put locktite of any kind on the enclosure screws - they would be a bear to remove. Since these are steel screws run into aluminum, the two dissimilar metals can create drag and can actually lock together, so you have an effective 'threadlocker' already. One trick I learned long ago is to put a tiny drop of oil on the screwthreads when inserting a steel screw into aluminum to assure that the screw will be fully seated. Often the threads can drag and give the appearance of being tight, but in fact are still loose. I see no problem with using locktite on the screws that mount the board to either standoffs or the 2-D connectors, but if lockwashers are used and the screw is adequately tightened, they seldom come loose. Some builders seem to use wimpy wrists, maybe they are afraid of breaking something, but the screws holding the board to standoffs or 2D connectors should be made more than just snug, give them that little extra. 73, Don W3FPR Byron Servies wrote: On Dec 30, 2009, at 2:29 AM, Brett Howard wrote: I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws from the board side snip I have also considered using either a drop of blue loctite or a tiny bit of Phil's grease as a thread locker / vibration protection for the screws in my K1 and was wondering if anyone had any first hand experience to report. Byron KI6NUL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.722 / Virus Database: 270.14.123/2594 - Release Date: 12/30/09 02:27:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues
Brett, You might consider ordering the Stainless fastener kit K3SSKT instead of spending the time to inventory the ones you'll need. You get a complete collection of all the exterior screws and nuts with plenty of extras for later. Oh yeah, get some new, quality screw drivers.. Rick K6LE On 12/30/2009, at 2:29 , Brett Howard wrote: Ok I know I need to buy new screwdrivers. I'm in the process of buying a set of Whia drivers. I feel that the driver I've been using fits fairly well but the Whia set I have at work seem to fit a little better. Anyway I'm starting to have issues with my bottom front panel after getting into this radio as many times as I have... After the DVR, the audio low pass filter, several additions of filters, the sub RX, and every mod on the website (except for the resistor change for the P3) I'll be doing it when the P3 arrives... Anyway the center most screw position was the one giving me the most fits before. This wasn't near as big of an issue when I didn't have the sub receiver. But now that I have that piece in place being able to put a screwdriver on the top side has become much more work intensive. I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws from the board side so that Its very easy to remove the screws from the bottom and I figured if I ever had to replace the RF board that replacing a few standoffs at the same time would be easy... Anyway I've cammed out of some of the flat head screws ever so slightly here and there and Elecraft graciously provided me with a few replacements to get rid of the ones that were starting to look bad. But this other issue is starting to get really quite ugly. I've gotten to the point where I no longer want to even try opening it because of how far I have too take it apart because of these issues. I got an FM filter for Xmas and because the left front screw and the center most screw wouldn't come out of the bottom I ended up having to pull the front panel and the sub RX in order to install a filter. (granted the Sub RX had to come out partially to get the filter in place but had to come out all the way for the other work). Anyway I think I'd like to replace some of these parts with new ones as the excessive use and attempts with lock-tite have been less than successful. I'm wondering if I should try to make up a BOM of what I need from the Elecraft manual (using elecraft part numbers of course) and then place an order or if I should just head to my parts catalog house and try there. Finally my last question quite concerns me I've noted that from several applications on and off that the board has gotten scratched here and there around the screw holes. Being that these are commonly ground points I'm quite worried that I'm not getting the grounding that I should... Just after installing the FM filter I noted that when I plug my mic into the front panel that I get about a .5S unit drop in noise level when the mic is plugged in. Granted I think this is the first time I've even listened to the radio w/ the mic unplugged (even though I rarely ever use it)... But this makes me wonder what may be up here FWIW I have put shorting wires around the L's in the back for the Improving the immunity of the Rear-Panel RS232 and Audio Connectors to RF modification. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues
Here in the Pacific the SS kit is a must, my screw heads tarnished in a couple months on stock screws. I use a tiny dollop of penetrox or similar on the threads to make sure they come loose next time. Here in the salt everything corrodes. And the proper size driver tip is most important. 73 Merv KH7C Brett, You might consider ordering the Stainless fastener kit K3SSKT instead of spending the time to inventory the ones you'll need. You get a complete collection of all the exterior screws and nuts with plenty of extras for later. Oh yeah, get some new, quality screw drivers.. Rick K6LE On 12/30/2009, at 2:29 , Brett Howard wrote: Ok I know I need to buy new screwdrivers. I'm in the process of buying a set of Whia drivers. I feel that the driver I've been using fits fairly well but the Whia set I have at work seem to fit a little better. Anyway I'm starting to have issues with my bottom front panel after getting into this radio as many times as I have... After the DVR, the audio low pass filter, several additions of filters, the sub RX, and every mod on the website (except for the resistor change for the P3) I'll be doing it when the P3 arrives... Anyway the center most screw position was the one giving me the most fits before. This wasn't near as big of an issue when I didn't have the sub receiver. But now that I have that piece in place being able to put a screwdriver on the top side has become much more work intensive. I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws from the board side so that Its very easy to remove the screws from the bottom and I figured if I ever had to replace the RF board that replacing a few standoffs at the same time would be easy... Anyway I've cammed out of some of the flat head screws ever so slightly here and there and Elecraft graciously provided me with a few replacements to get rid of the ones that were starting to look bad. But this other issue is starting to get really quite ugly. I've gotten to the point where I no longer want to even try opening it because of how far I have too take it apart because of these issues. I got an FM filter for Xmas and because the left front screw and the center most screw wouldn't come out of the bottom I ended up having to pull the front panel and the sub RX in order to install a filter. (granted the Sub RX had to come out partially to get the filter in place but had to come out all the way for the other work). Anyway I think I'd like to replace some of these parts with new ones as the excessive use and attempts with lock-tite have been less than successful. I'm wondering if I should try to make up a BOM of what I need from the Elecraft manual (using elecraft part numbers of course) and then place an order or if I should just head to my parts catalog house and try there. Finally my last question quite concerns me I've noted that from several applications on and off that the board has gotten scratched here and there around the screw holes. Being that these are commonly ground points I'm quite worried that I'm not getting the grounding that I should... Just after installing the FM filter I noted that when I plug my mic into the front panel that I get about a .5S unit drop in noise level when the mic is plugged in. Granted I think this is the first time I've even listened to the radio w/ the mic unplugged (even though I rarely ever use it)... But this makes me wonder what may be up here FWIW I have put shorting wires around the L's in the back for the Improving the immunity of the Rear-Panel RS232 and Audio Connectors to RF modification. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues
Oh yeah, get some new, quality screw drivers.. Excellent advice and probably one of the best investments made when assembling or performing work on the K3. At first, I purchased new #0 and #1 Phillips-head drivers from Klein Tools. The K3 assembly manual warns against the use of power screwdrivers although I'm now using a convertible Makita model DF010DSE with an auto-stop clutch. At the most sensitive clutch settings, it's wholly appropriate for working on the K3. If anyone is thinking about using a power screwdriver despite Elecraft's advisory notice, ensure that it has a clutch (preferably auto-stop), and try to find a model that also has a variable-speed motor to control the start of the screw. I manually start the screw with the Makita, feeling for any resistance, then apply low RPM power with the clutch engaged. Paul, W9AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues
Well so I've ordered a set of Wiha Driver-Loc drivers. I got the ESD-Safe handle and a set of bits for pretty much everything I use. Ok with that taken care of I ordered replacement split washers, inside tooth washers, black and nickel screws and new standoffs. I also ordered the stainless steel screw kit. I take this K3 to the Oregon coast (pretty much literally to the beach) for FD every year.. So the stainless screws didn't seem like that bad of an idea (and it gets me new screws for the bottom of the unit)... I'll use a bit of heat to remove the screws with loc-tite on them and I'll rebuild the thing w/o the loc-tite. I think I'm also going to make some copper tape discs to put around the screw holes where the boards traces have been scratched. I'll probably solder the discs to the board around their outside to ensure good grounding. Figured while I was in there I ordered the Rev. D DSP board and I'll get that all updated. With all that and the P3 FD should be fun this year... ;) Thanks all ~Brett __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
