RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 - 80m poor quality SSB

2005-01-14 Thread Stewart Baker
On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 20:20:05 +0100, Sverre Holm wrote:
 -Original Message-

 There is an Errata from Elecraft which does not appeared to have made it
 onto their Web site yet. It is:-
 ---
 K2/100 MANUAL (Appendix G) ERRATA
 Rev. C-3, December 14, 2004
 ---
 The errata is there now, see
 http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740035E%20KPA100%20errata%20rev%20C-3.pdf

 73
 Sverre
 LA3ZA
 http://www.qsl.net/la3za/

Thanks for the information Sverre.

Unfortunately:-
a) The Errata is under the manual section, with no reference to it from the 
builders notes or elsewhere as far as I can see.
b) The description in the Errata only mentions the changes to the KPA100 SWR 
foldback,  nothing about curing the RFC3 resonance on 80m.

I think that this is where your excellent index of modification takes over.

73
Stewart G3RXQ



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: Amplifier for K1

2005-01-14 Thread Martin . Evans




Thanks Bob, yes the resistors are metal film or something like that but
definitely not wire wound. I spent a fair time on the air last night on
40/80 with the K1 and 100W from the TS520. It works like a charm. The K1
switches the TS520 T/R relays via a little 2 transistor switching circuit
(looking at the K1 6R line) which grounds the TS520 PTT line. I built the
circuit onto a small piece of vero board which plugs into the 3 pin socket
on the filter board (like the official K2 mod) . A screened cable then
connects the open collector to the PTT pin on the TS520 Mic socket.

I've set the T-R delay to about 500ms so the relays don't switch too much.
Do I need to worry about this? If I set it so that it switches say between
each word will that wear out the relays too quickly, not sure how robust
they are. When operating the K1 barefoot I use a T-R delay of 50ms.

Thanks
Martin
M0KWV





[EMAIL PROTECTED] on 13/01/2005 16:58:55

To:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
cc:

Subject:Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: Amplifier for K1



Hi Martin,

Got that fine.

You have got the best of what is possible using the TS520 with the way you
have done the mod.

Just a point make sure you do not use 2 x100 ohm  wire wound resistors for
the dummy load. They must be carbon otherwise odd  effects can occur due to
inductance. You may be well aware of this effect, but I  am pointing it out
in any case as 2.5W is one of the standard dissapation values  for wire
wound resistors!

Regards,
Bob, G3VVT




Why not take a look at our Web site?
http://www.simoncarves.com

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[Elecraft] Elecraft K1 Filter Bandwidth

2005-01-14 Thread Martin . Evans




I've had my K1 for 18 months and I still keep finding features I didn't
know about! I just found out last night that I can change the filter
bandwidth on line so to speak whilst I am listening to the received
signal. Don't know why I didn't think of trying this before. Maybe this is
obvious to most people but not to beginners like me! Sometimes with FIL3
set at 200Hz on a weak signal the sig disappears altogether and the filter
just needs widening a bit. Fantastic little radio. Mine gets a real
hammering and is faultless. Don't forget the K1!

Martin
M0KWV
K1 #1534


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Help me identify this capacitor?

2005-01-14 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Top of head thoughts,

Compulytic = Computer Grade Electrolytic ?

32D   - sounds like a type reference ?

4500 - 150 DC  = 4500 uF  150V DC  ?  Strange though as 4700 uF is the usual
value and 100V or 200V are the usual nearby voltage ratings.

7230L - maybe the part number ?

0180-1839 - maybe the HP stock number ?

My guess is that Sprague supplied these as specials to a HP spec. This
sort of thing happened a lot when I was with RCA.

73 and good luck,

Geoff. GM4ESD


- Original Message -
From: Richard T. Perry [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2005 9:12 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Help me identify this capacitor?


 Since this list is a font of everything electronic, can y'all help me with
 this?

 I've got a HP DC power supply (6443B) that's worked great for a long time.
I
 DON'T have a service manual for it (of course). Recently, when I turn this
 thing on, the voltage comes up, then drops off slowly (this is under no
load
 conditions) over 20-30 seconds, then blows the C/B.

 I think I've troubleshot the problem down to the supply side capacitors.
 They're massive can-types. About 3 in diameter by 6 tall. On the side is
 the following information:

 Sprague
 Compulytic
 32D
 4500-150 DC
 7230 L
 0180-1839


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[Elecraft] KPA100 Rev A

2005-01-14 Thread J F
Hi Folks,
I have an unbuilt KPA100 Rev A. I know about the
Sheilding modification, the updated firmware and the
SWR range modification. Are there any other
modifications/upgrades required?
Thanks,
Julius
n2wn
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[Elecraft] receive problem

2005-01-14 Thread David
I set my k2 up two days ago after a long time idle and hooked up an 80
dipole
I was tuning around on 80 meters and it sounded dead but when I switched the
antenna to my Kenwood ts450 the band came to life. so it appears that my k2
with remote kpa100 and tuner seems to be deaf the last thing I had done to
the unit was the shield mod on the kpa 100 did not have a chance to check it
out after words so any ideas as to where to begin?
see ya

73's
N1IB
David Schornak

K2 03027

arf
don't forget me
Mis Ginger

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Re: [Elecraft] receive problem

2005-01-14 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm

David,

You have 3 pieces of Elecraft gear connected together - check to see which 
one of them creates the problem.
First, just move the antenna to the base K2 to see if you can hear there - 
if so, next move it direct to the KPA100 antenna connector - if you can 
still hear the signals, the problem is with the KAT100.  Once you determine 
which Elecraft box contains the problem, we can help more.


OTOH, if you have the K160RX option installed, be certain Rant is set off on 
80 meters.  The receive antenna setting is remembered on a per band basis. 
As a quick check, just connect an antenna to the receiveng antenna jack.


73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 


I set my k2 up two days ago after a long time idle and hooked up an 80
dipole
I was tuning around on 80 meters and it sounded dead but when I switched 
the
antenna to my Kenwood ts450 the band came to life. so it appears that my 
k2

with remote kpa100 and tuner seems to be deaf the last thing I had done to
the unit was the shield mod on the kpa 100 did not have a chance to check 
it

out after words so any ideas as to where to begin?
see ya




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[Elecraft] WTB: KPA-100

2005-01-14 Thread john . brewer
Anyone have one for sale, built , or unbuilt?

Thanks!
John K5MO

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: Amplifier for K1

2005-01-14 Thread Ken
Martin, could you tell me a bit more about how you interfaced the K1 to the
TS520?

I have an old Atlas 210 I would like to use as a power amp with my K1 as you
are using the TS520.  I start writing a  how to question and realize I
really don't have all the knowledge to even ask the questions.  I guess the
best thing I can say is - can anyone help me with this project of using the
Atlas 210 as an Amp?  What are the steps involved?   I know there is more to
it than just injecting the K1 signal into the Atlas just past the driver
stage.  I am not trying to save the Atlas for anything else.

73 de Ken
K9FV
K1 #1951


- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 3:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: Amplifier for K1

Thanks Bob, yes the resistors are metal film or something like that but
definitely not wire wound. I spent a fair time on the air last night on
40/80 with the K1 and 100W from the TS520. It works like a charm. The K1
switches the TS520 T/R relays via a little 2 transistor switching circuit
(looking at the K1 6R line) which grounds the TS520 PTT line. I built the
circuit onto a small piece of vero board which plugs into the 3 pin socket
on the filter board (like the official K2 mod) . A screened cable then
connects the open collector to the PTT pin on the TS520 Mic socket.

I've set the T-R delay to about 500ms so the relays don't switch too much.
Do I need to worry about this? If I set it so that it switches say between
each word will that wear out the relays too quickly, not sure how robust
they are. When operating the K1 barefoot I use a T-R delay of 50ms.

Thanks
Martin
M0KWV





[EMAIL PROTECTED] on 13/01/2005 16:58:55

To:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
cc:

Subject:Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: Amplifier for K1



Hi Martin,

Got that fine.

You have got the best of what is possible using the TS520 with the way you
have done the mod.

Just a point make sure you do not use 2 x100 ohm  wire wound resistors for
the dummy load. They must be carbon otherwise odd  effects can occur due to
inductance. You may be well aware of this effect, but I  am pointing it out
in any case as 2.5W is one of the standard dissapation values  for wire
wound resistors!

Regards,
Bob, G3VVT




Why not take a look at our Web site?
http://www.simoncarves.com

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the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed.
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employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee,
you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this communication is strictly prohibited.
If you have received this communication in error, please notify
me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately.
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[Elecraft] Will trade XV144 or XV222 for KAT100

2005-01-14 Thread Alan
Hi:

I will trade a built transverter either the XV144 or XV222 for a new KAT100
kit.  The transverters are built and work according to spec.

73
Alan
W1HYV

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[Elecraft] K2 IF Amp Alignment and AGC Threshold

2005-01-14 Thread gehringc
I have a couple of questions about readings I have collected during my present 
build process.

First:  The procedure outlined for setting the AGC Threshold on page 47 
recommends setting the voltage from U2 pin 5 to 3.8 volts by adjusting R-1.  In 
the troubleshooting section Appendix E Page 6, the procedure recommends setting 
the voltage to 3.9 volts.  As I understand it this is a initial adjustment that 
I will fine tune later and that I am just adjusting for a peak voltage.  
However the maximum I can adjust my U2 Pin 5 voltage is 3.78.  Comments?

Second:  The IF Amplifier Alignment, outlines a procedure to tune the VFO to 
7.000 MHz then with the L34 slug turned down 1 1/2 turns from the top of the 
can, adjust the L34 for signal peak.  I hear a tone at 6,998 MHz and the 
audible tone is pretty solid for a full one and half turns in either direction 
on the L34.  I hooked up a DMM to the headphone output and the voltage appears 
to peak at the top of the L34 can.  Comments?

Third:  I remember seeing a posting that discussed a rather elaborate procedure 
to Calibrate the K2 S-meter using the Elecraft XG1.  Or was I dreaming?  Can 
someone point me in the right direction to speed up my search.

73, KI4DGH
Chuck G.

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re:[Elecraft] Questions on battery, pots, chargers, and paddles

2005-01-14 Thread B. Scott Andersen

Colleagues,

I got some great advice from the list from my four questions
posted a couple of days ago...

I had asked what to do about the dead potentiometer and the
response was: MAIL ELECRAFT! I did. They responded immediately
that they would send me a replacement pot immediately at no
charge. These folks are GREAT!

For the rest, here goes. Thank you again everybody for the
great ideas, advice, and guidance. It is very much
appreciated. (If I missed anybody, please accept my apology!)

Don W3FPR: Thank you very much for the helpful advice
this time (and last time). I've indeed visited your
web site. Very nice. I need to think about this a bit
more. (I also need to follow up on the last thing you
helped me with: the 12uH inductor.)

=-=-=

Lonnie NY2LJ: You had observed that the battery is
pretty snug in there with the bracket. I must agree.
I just got it installed last night. Thanks for the
encouragement. I will be shipping it with the battery
mounted inside. (I'll also turn it OFF as you suggest!)
Other folks commented how well the Pelican case works
so I've got few worries about it now.

=-=-=

WA5ZNU Leigh: Your idea of a DPDT switch is a great one!
I'll likely follow up with you upon my return from KH6.
Ken (N4SO) had another interesting idea (below).

=-=-=

Ken N4SO: Thanks for the notes on the charger. I've not
decided what to do for this problem long-term. I think,
at least for now, I'll wait and solve the problem after
returning from KH6. This does look interesting, though:

The PCR12-500A is a self contained charger designed to auto-
matically maintain a 12 volt Sealed Lead Acid battery having
a maximum bulk charge of 500 mA or greater. The Power Sonic
PS-1229A is an example of the type of battery this charger
is designed to work with.
Ref:   Bob Lewis, AA4PB, An Automatic Sealed Lead-Acid Battery
Charger, QST May 2001, p. 43-47.

The advantage of the PCR12-500A over most other automatic chargers
is that it can reliably work under varying load conditions and
can therefore be left connected to the battery at all times.

=-=-=

Michael  VE3WMB: Thanks for the advice on the paddles and for the note 
on
the Pelican case. It is going to be fun filling it! I still might get 
the

paddles but use them at home. I'll check the budget this evening. :-)

-- Scott (NE1RD)... K2 #4649

B. Scott Andersen| Magic is real, unless declared integer.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   | -- The collected sayings of Wiz Zumwalt
Acton, Massachusetts | Ham: NE1RD, QRP ARCI#11588, FP#-910

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[Elecraft] EQP pre-announcement

2005-01-14 Thread wayne burdick

Hi All,

A few people have asked about this year's EQP (Elecraft QSO Party). 
We've tentatively settled on a contest period of 1500 Z March 12 to 
1500 Z March 13. Final details will be posted here and on our web site 
soon.


Of course it's impossible to find a weekend that isn't chock-full of 
contests, so there's an inevitable overlap between EQP and other 
activities. We tried to do as little damage as possible, but it's not 
too late to complain loudly and try to convince us to change our minds  
;)


73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: re:[Elecraft] Questions on battery, pots, chargers, and paddles

2005-01-14 Thread Stuart Rohre
Scott, never ship electronics with a battery installed unless you disconnect
one lead from the battery so that there is not way it can energize in
shipment.  DO NOT RELY
ON ANY!! SWITCH!  We have shipped equipment all over the world and seen it
accidentally turn itself on through vibration or switches that short, or
take a blow and get broken.  You can never predict what a unit may endure in
shipping.

It only takes a moment to remove the covers of the K2 and reconnect a
battery lead.
Safety first!
-Stuart
K5KVH


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Re: [Elecraft] Questions on battery, pots, chargers, and paddles

2005-01-14 Thread B. Scott Andersen

Stuart:

You are absolutely right. I've already had one interesting
battery incident (not with the K2 or the K2 battery) and
that was more than enough for one lifetime!

Thanks for the note. I'll get that battery disconnected
and the terminals insulated before the trip.

-- Scott (NE1RD)

On Jan 14, 2005, at 2:57 PM, Stuart Rohre wrote:

Scott, never ship electronics with a battery installed unless you 
disconnect

one lead from the battery so that there is not way it can energize in
shipment.  DO NOT RELY
ON ANY!! SWITCH!  We have shipped equipment all over the world and 
seen it
accidentally turn itself on through vibration or switches that short, 
or
take a blow and get broken.  You can never predict what a unit may 
endure in

shipping.

It only takes a moment to remove the covers of the K2 and reconnect a
battery lead.
Safety first!
-Stuart
K5KVH


B. Scott Andersen| Magic is real, unless declared integer.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   | -- The collected sayings of Wiz Zumwalt
Acton, Massachusetts | Ham: NE1RD, QRP ARCI#11588, FP#-910

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[Elecraft] SMD CW Tuning Indicator

2005-01-14 Thread n2fq

Hello everyone.
Just to add my thanks along with many and say thanks again to Tom for a 
nicely

done kit.
This was my first venture into SMD and the hand holding provided by the 
instructions
made it painless. Small kits in this realm is the way for me. I couldn't 
envision

all the small parts for a K2 laying around here.

As has been suggested around here I started by putting all the parts 
into a pie plate.

Use a wooden clothes pin as a based to hold the pc board. Then I cut up
a wire coat hanger and use the hook end together with a tooth pick to
keep the small thingys in place.

Used a program called TuneWin to help me with the adjustment and double 
sticky taped

the board as described.
Here are some picture of my adventure.
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/n2fq/spotIndicator.html

I should have gotten another one for my 703 :-(

Thanks to the reflector and those who are in the know.

take care.

--

73
Fernando N2FQ/NNNØJYM 
San Jose, CA

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/n2fq

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[Elecraft] 24 Hours left to purchase a 2005 QRP Contest Calendar

2005-01-14 Thread Ron Polityka

Hello,

Just a quick note. There is only 24 hours before I close out the 2005 QRP 
Contest Calendar. 15 Jan. 2005 @ 23:59 UTC is the last time to purchase a 
2005 QRP Contest Calendar. If you would like to pay by check, please let me 
know via an e-mail.


   Check out:
   www.n3epa.org

Click on:

   6th Annual QRP Contest Calendar for 2005

Thanks to all that did purchase a calendar.

72
Ron de N3EPA
EPA QRP Club El Presidente'
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.n3epa.org 



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RE: [Elecraft] K2 IF Amp Alignment and AGC Threshold

2005-01-14 Thread Masleid, Michael A.
Hello Chuck,

I also never saw much change on the DMM, but the L34 peak was close to the
top.  Later, I used the Spectrogram program.  The peak still didn't change
much, but the background noise spectrum does change.  Much of the high
frequency noise goes away as the slug is turned down, so I know that
the setting should not be too near the top.  I haven't figured out a
good way to center the band pass around the signal though, because the
audio from the low side of the IF filter bandwidth gets lost in the
low frequency audio cut off frequency.

Second:  The IF Amplifier Alignment, outlines a procedure to tune
the VFO to 7.000 MHz then with the L34 slug turned down 1 1/2 turns
from the top of the can, adjust the L34 for signal peak.  I hear a
tone at 6,998 MHz and the audible tone is pretty solid for a full one
and half turns in either direction on the L34.  I hooked up a DMM to
the headphone output and the voltage appears to peak at the top of
the L34 can.  Comments?

73 de AB9GV
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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar Jan 14 - Feb 28, 2005

2005-01-14 Thread Ken Newman


~~
N2CQ QRP CALENDAR
JANUARY 14 to Feb 28,  2005 
~~
40 METER FOXHUNT - Every Friday 0200z to 0359z 
(Thurs 9 PM to 11 PM EST)

Info: http://www.cqc.org/fox/index.htm

Truffle Hunt  - 30 min before Fox Hunt
Info: http://fpqrp.com/winter_hunt.html
~~
070 Club PSKFEST Contest  ... QRP Category
Jan 15, z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.podxs.com/html/pskfest.html
~~
Michigan QRP Club Contest (CW) ... QRP Contest!
Jan 15, 1200z to Jan 16, 2359z 
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/miqrpclub/contest.html

~~
LZ OPEN CONTEST (CW 80M/40M) ...QRP Category
Jan 15, 1200z to 2000z
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/lz1fw/lzopen/index.html
~~
North American QSO Party (SSB) (100w max. QRP Entries Noted)
Jan 15, 1800z to Jan 16, 0600z
Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/naqprules.php
~~
Run For The Bacon (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Jan 17, 0100z to 0300z
Rules: http://fpqrp.com
~~
NAQCC 80-METER SPRINT (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Jan 21, 0130z to 0330z
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/kb3lfc/sprint_0105.html
~~
ARRL January VHF Sweepstakes ... Low Power Category
Jan 22, 1900z to Jan 24, 0400z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2005
~~
CQ WW 160-Meter DX Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Jan 29, z to Jan 30, 2359z
Rules: http://www.cq-amateur-radio.com/awards.html
~~
UBA DX Contest (Belgian) (SSB) ... QRP Category
Jan 29, 1300z to Jan 30, 1300z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/ubac.htm
~~
New Hampshire QSO Party (Ph/CW/Dig) ... QRP Category
Feb 5, z to Feb 6, 2400z
Rules: http://www.wz1f.net/2005_NH_QSO_Pary_Rules.doc
~~
10-10 Int. Winter Phone QSO Party ... QRP Category
Feb 5, 0001z to Feb 6, 2359z
Rules: http://www.ten-ten.org/rules.html
~~
Minnesota QSO Party (PH/CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 5, 1400z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.w0aa.org/
~~
FBYO Winter QRP Field Day (CW/SSB) ... QRP Contest!
Feb 5, 1600z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.azqrp.org/azqrp/FYBO2005.htm
~~
AGCW Straight Key QSO Party (CW 80M) ... QRP Category
Feb 5, 1600z to  1900z
Rules: http://www.agcw.de/english/contest/htp_e.htm
~~
Delaware QSO Party (All)
Feb 5, 1700z to Feb 6, 0500z
Feb 6, 1300z to Feb 7, 0100z
Rules: http://www.fsarc.org/qso.htm
~~
North American Sprint (Phone) ... QRP Category
Feb 6, z to 0400z
Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php 
~~

QRP ARCI Fireside Sprint (SSB) ...QRP Contest!
Feb 6, 2000z to 2400z
Rules: http://2hams.net/ARCI/index.htm
~~
Adventure Radio Society - Spartan Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest!
Feb 8, 0200z to 0400z (First Monday 9 PM EST)
Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/
~~
CQ WW RTTY WPX Contest ... Low Power Category
Feb 12, z to Feb 13, 2400z
Rules: http://www.cq-amateur-radio.com/awards.html
~~
Dutch PACC Contest (SSB/CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 12, 1200z to Feb 13, 1200z
Rules: http://www.veron.nl/pacc/rules2005.html
~~
Louisiana QSO Party (Ph/CW) 
Feb 12, 1500z to Feb 13, 0300z 
Rules: http://www.tchams.org/users/contest/laqp/laqprules.html

~~
FISTS Winter Sprint (CW of course) ...QRP Category
Feb 12, 1700z to 2100z
Rules: http://www.fists.org/sprints.html
~~
British Columbia QSO Challenge (CW/Ph/Dig) ... QRP Category
Feb 12, 1800z to Feb 13, 1800z
Rules: http://www.deltaamateurradio.com/bcqsochallenge.html
~~
North American Sprint (CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 13, z to 0400z
Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php
~~
ARRL 

RE: [Elecraft] K2 IF Amp Alignment and AGC Threshold

2005-01-14 Thread Rich Lentz
Rather than using a DMM, while you have the rig hooked up to the PC (Speaker
jack NOT Phone jack) and using Spectrogram, follow the steps for the IF
Amplifier alignment - BUT look for the least amount of noise and a peak in
the signal.  If you don't have Spectrogram, use any PSK program with a
waterfall display and minimize the background clutter (like snow on a TV)
and maximize the brightness of the tone.  Works great and much easier.  Made
a tremendous difference on my rig.  I think if people that complained of
Low output volume there problems would go away.

Rich,
KE0X

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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 - 80m poor quality SSB

2005-01-14 Thread Stan Rife
You must have looked at a different errata sheet than I have. Item 3
talks about RFC3 and the resistor across it. The sheet is dated 12/14/2004


Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
 
Thanks for the information Sverre.

Unfortunately:-
a) The Errata is under the manual section, with no reference to it from the 
builders notes or elsewhere as far as I can see.
b) The description in the Errata only mentions the changes to the KPA100 SWR

foldback,  nothing about curing the RFC3 resonance on 80m.

I think that this is where your excellent index of modification takes over.

73
Stewart G3RXQ



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RE: [Elecraft] SMD CW Tuning Indicator

2005-01-14 Thread Dave @ Interaccess.com
FB Job Fernando! Good Pics too!

I am waiting on my kit, so your work was very helpful.

Tnx et 73 de Dave K9FZJ

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[Elecraft] Logging clock?

2005-01-14 Thread Kevin Rock



A few of you mentioned the desire for larger digits on your logging 
clock.  Here is just the thing for you ;)


http://www.lares.dti.ne.jp/~yugo/storage/monocrafts_ver3/03/index.html

Kevin.   KD5ONS
 



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 IF Amp Alignment and AGC Threshold

2005-01-14 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm

Chuck,

The AGC Threshold setting of 3.8 volts is the normal recommended starting 
value.  If you are measuring 3.78 volts, thatt is likely OK, but just as a 
quick sanity check, do check the output of the 8 volt regulator U4 on the 
control board.  If it is less than 8 volts, that may be the reason you 
cannot get the AGC Threshold up to the 3.8 volt level - check the soldering 
on the 8A line (refer to the schematic to see the points connected).


In any case, you can modify the AGC Threshold after you have the K2 up and 
running to achieve maximum receiver sensitivity - simply switch between AGC 
on and AGC off on a quiet band - the AGC Threshold should be set so there is 
no reduction in receiver gain with AGC on.  I usually find that the final 
AGC Threshold voltage is somewhere between 3.6 and 3.8 volts.


You have received several other responses about the IF alignment question - 
I can add nothing more.


In answer to your 3rd question about the S-Meter calibration - Yes, one can 
use the Elecraft XG1 (or any other 50 uV signal) to set the S-Meter at S-9. 
The easy way to do that is just what is mentioned in the manual - change S 
HI so the S-meter reads the way you want it to, but if you also insist on 
full S-meter deflection with a VERY strong signal, things get a bit more 
complex.  The settings of S-Lo, S-Hi, and the AGC Threshold all interact and 
can be set to provide whatever S-meter action is pleasing to you - so if you 
are adventure minded, I encourage you to experiment with it until you have 
the settings you desire - If you are not so adventuresome and just 'want it 
to work', do what the manual tells you to do - that will result in a 
perfectly adequate S-meter response.


73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 

I have a couple of questions about readings I have collected during my 
present build process.


First:  The procedure outlined for setting the AGC Threshold on page 47 
recommends setting the voltage from U2 pin 5 to 3.8 volts by adjusting 
R-1.  In the troubleshooting section Appendix E Page 6, the procedure 
recommends setting the voltage to 3.9 volts.  As I understand it this is a 
initial adjustment that I will fine tune later and that I am just 
adjusting for a peak voltage.  However the maximum I can adjust my U2 Pin 
5 voltage is 3.78.  Comments?


Second:  The IF Amplifier Alignment, outlines a procedure to tune the VFO 
to 7.000 MHz then with the L34 slug turned down 1 1/2 turns from the top 
of the can, adjust the L34 for signal peak.  I hear a tone at 6,998 MHz 
and the audible tone is pretty solid for a full one and half turns in 
either direction on the L34.  I hooked up a DMM to the headphone output 
and the voltage appears to peak at the top of the L34 can.  Comments?


Third:  I remember seeing a posting that discussed a rather elaborate 
procedure to Calibrate the K2 S-meter using the Elecraft XG1.  Or was I 
dreaming?  Can someone point me in the right direction to speed up my 
search.


73, KI4DGH
Chuck G.



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[Elecraft] Operating in cold weather

2005-01-14 Thread Joe Ford
Hello Elecrafters, I have a little problem and would appreciate some
advice.

My ham shack is in a room which is separated from the main house.
Consequently, it does not receive heat from the main house and during
this cold weather is only heated when I am in the room and even then I
don't get it very warm. I normally only have an hour or so in the
evenings for operating. I dress warm, and, fortunately I'm in Alabama
where winters are relatively mild.

Well I have almost completed construction of the KPA100 and planned to
power it with an Alinco  switching supply. I was using this supply with
my K2 on a cold morning recently and almost as soon as I powered up it
notified me my battery was low (not on battery). I looked at the
Alinco's meter and the voltage was showing just over 10V when it should
have been 13.8. 

First question: Am I correct in attributing this drop in voltage to the
cold? I think it was about 45 degrees in the room at that time. I also
have an Astron RS-20 which did not show a similar voltage drop, leading
me to this conclusion. I can use the Astron to power the KPA100 but will
need another supply for the K2. Second question: Can someone suggest a
smaller supply to use with the K2 which will not suffer in the cold
(most of the small ones seem to be switchers)? Or, final question, Is it
really necessary to use separate supplies for the K2 and KPA or
could/would the Astron power both. 

Thanks in advance for any assistance. 

Joe
K4NVJ
K2#4155
K1#764

LONG LIVE ELECRAFT'




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Re: [Elecraft] Operating in cold weather

2005-01-14 Thread Bob Nielsen
On Fri, Jan 14, 2005 at 08:57:08PM -0600, Joe Ford wrote:
 Hello Elecrafters, I have a little problem and would appreciate some
 advice.
 
 My ham shack is in a room which is separated from the main house.
 Consequently, it does not receive heat from the main house and during
 this cold weather is only heated when I am in the room and even then I
 don't get it very warm. I normally only have an hour or so in the
 evenings for operating. I dress warm, and, fortunately I'm in Alabama
 where winters are relatively mild.
 
 Well I have almost completed construction of the KPA100 and planned to
 power it with an Alinco  switching supply. I was using this supply with
 my K2 on a cold morning recently and almost as soon as I powered up it
 notified me my battery was low (not on battery). I looked at the
 Alinco's meter and the voltage was showing just over 10V when it should
 have been 13.8. 
 
 First question: Am I correct in attributing this drop in voltage to the
 cold? I think it was about 45 degrees in the room at that time. I also
 have an Astron RS-20 which did not show a similar voltage drop, leading
 me to this conclusion. I can use the Astron to power the KPA100 but will
 need another supply for the K2. Second question: Can someone suggest a
 smaller supply to use with the K2 which will not suffer in the cold
 (most of the small ones seem to be switchers)? Or, final question, Is it
 really necessary to use separate supplies for the K2 and KPA or
 could/would the Astron power both. 
 
 Thanks in advance for any assistance. 

My shack is in my unheated garage, which often gets to 50F this time of
year. I use an Alinco supply for my K2, TS-570 (not at the same time)
and packet station and have never had any problems with the voltage
being temperature sensitive.  I keep the voltage control on the detent.

Bob, N7XY
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Re: [Elecraft] Operating in cold weather

2005-01-14 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm

Joe,

Use the Astron since you said it does not sag voltage with the cold - it 
will supply both the base K2 and the KPA100.  Connect it only to the APP 
connector on the KPA100 and all will be well (you do not need seaprate 
supplies for the K2 and the KPA100 unless you have the KPA100 mounted in an 
external enclosure without the DC connection to the K2 RF board).


73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 
From: Joe Ford [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 9:57 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Operating in cold weather



Hello Elecrafters, I have a little problem and would appreciate some
advice.

My ham shack is in a room which is separated from the main house.
Consequently, it does not receive heat from the main house and during
this cold weather is only heated when I am in the room and even then I
don't get it very warm. I normally only have an hour or so in the
evenings for operating. I dress warm, and, fortunately I'm in Alabama
where winters are relatively mild.

Well I have almost completed construction of the KPA100 and planned to
power it with an Alinco  switching supply. I was using this supply with
my K2 on a cold morning recently and almost as soon as I powered up it
notified me my battery was low (not on battery). I looked at the
Alinco's meter and the voltage was showing just over 10V when it should
have been 13.8.

First question: Am I correct in attributing this drop in voltage to the
cold? I think it was about 45 degrees in the room at that time. I also
have an Astron RS-20 which did not show a similar voltage drop, leading
me to this conclusion. I can use the Astron to power the KPA100 but will
need another supply for the K2. Second question: Can someone suggest a
smaller supply to use with the K2 which will not suffer in the cold
(most of the small ones seem to be switchers)? Or, final question, Is it
really necessary to use separate supplies for the K2 and KPA or
could/would the Astron power both.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Joe
K4NVJ
K2#4155
K1#764

LONG LIVE ELECRAFT'




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Re: [Elecraft] receive problem

2005-01-14 Thread David
the problem is not in the k2 it checked out okay
the kat 100 seems to be acting really strange with the leds lighting some
sometimes as it tunes and sometimes it does not and it was cycling through
and never really tuning so I think the problem is in the kat100 which is in
the same box as the kpa 100 so I will start the diagnosis of that on
Saturday.

- Original Message - 
From: Gary Surrency [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'W3FPR - Don Wilhelm' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'David'
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 1:17 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] receive problem


Also check all of your cables for faults.

--
73, Gary AB7MY
=
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Elecraft Technical Support




-Original Message-
From: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 6:56 AM
To: David; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] receive problem


David,

You have 3 pieces of Elecraft gear connected together - check to see which
one of them creates the problem.
First, just move the antenna to the base K2 to see if you can hear there -
if so, next move it direct to the KPA100 antenna connector - if you can
still hear the signals, the problem is with the KAT100.  Once you determine
which Elecraft box contains the problem, we can help more.

OTOH, if you have the K160RX option installed, be certain Rant is set off on

80 meters.  The receive antenna setting is remembered on a per band basis.
As a quick check, just connect an antenna to the receiveng antenna jack.

73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 

I set my k2 up two days ago after a long time idle and hooked up an 80
dipole  I was tuning around on 80 meters and it sounded dead but when I
switched  the
 antenna to my Kenwood ts450 the band came to life. so it appears that my
 k2
 with remote kpa100 and tuner seems to be deaf the last thing I had done to
 the unit was the shield mod on the kpa 100 did not have a chance to check
 it
 out after words so any ideas as to where to begin?
 see ya





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Re: [Elecraft] Logging clock?

2005-01-14 Thread John

Wow, wouldn't that drive you nuts?

--
John   K7SVV
- Original Message - 
From: Kevin Rock [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 6:44 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Logging clock?





A few of you mentioned the desire for larger digits on your logging 
clock.  Here is just the thing for you ;)


http://www.lares.dti.ne.jp/~yugo/storage/monocrafts_ver3/03/index.html

Kevin.   KD5ONS
 



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--

Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.6.11 - Release Date: 1/12/2005





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Re:[Elecraft]V9#14-OT: Help me identify this capacitor?

2005-01-14 Thread Phil Barnes-Roberts AD6PQ
At 04:01 AM 1/14/05 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] juggled the 
keys to produce...

 Since this list is a font of everything electronic, can y'all help me with
 this?

 I've got a HP DC power supply (6443B) that's worked great for a long time.
 I DON'T have a service manual for it (of course). Recently, when I turn
 this thing on, the voltage comes up, then drops off slowly (this is under
 no load conditions) over 20-30 seconds, then blows the C/B.

 I think I've troubleshot the problem down to the supply side capacitors.
 They're massive can-types. About 3 in diameter by 6 tall. On the side is
 the following information:

 Sprague
 Compulytic
 32D
 4500-150 DC
 7230 L
 0180-1839

 I know Sprague has merged several times, but I've been trying to get some
 information about this part from my normal suppliers (Mouser, Digikey)
 with no luck...

 Rather than buying the manual for $35, can someone out there help me
 decode this part number? I figure if I can find the original capacitance
 and voltage/load ratings, I can just find a more modern replacement.

 Thanks in advance for the help, guys.

 Richard Perry

There's also an operating/service manual available on ebaY for $14.95 
Buy-it-Now, if you care to have things like detailed calibration 
procedure, etc.  You may also wish to join/post to a couple YahooGroups, 
nomanual and Manual Exchange


I'm always a bit nervous about a piece of gear that comes without the 
manual - especially, say, a built Heathkit.   I'm at the mercy of someone 
else's building skills then.


But for a capacitor substitution like this, you can probably find what you 
need at a distributor, Digi-Key, Mouser, Newark, Allied, etc.  Some of them 
may be able to let you search for a sub, within the physical envelope of 
the original.  Before you mount the thing permanently, try just 
disconnecting and bridging in the sub.  There could be other things 
failed.  Be careful; you are in lethal country there!



73, Phil Barnes-Roberts WA6DZS  DM04we | Mailto:wa6dzs at arrl dot net
The only Dumb Question is the one you Didn't Ask because you thought
it would Sound Dumb.  --AQF1 Jones
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