Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Yaesu FT-2800 Solutions
Same here.. [EMAIL PROTECTED] will do it :) TIA On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 8:59 PM, Mike (WM4B) Besemer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dave, I'm looking for info on the COS signal and external circuitry. Please email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] mwbesemer%40cox.net Mike WM4B --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com, wb7cjq [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Anybody wanting to use the 2800 as the receive side of a repeater and/or remote base or Echolink system, I have (as of today) the answers!!! I can get you discriminator level gated audio as well as a COS type signal. Both will require external circuitry, but I've found those hidden little guys!!! Email or just post here. 73, Dave. -- -- Every electronic device is manufactured with smoke stored deep inside... only a true genius can find a way to set it free.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware
Al, Yes, I had thought of the threaded bolts. I have some I am going to use, but in a strieght format with half clamp plates. My application is going high on a 5.25 leg tower and need some hardware to secure a top and bottom antenna mount. I found some material at this site for SitePro1: http://www.sitepro1.com/?OVRAW=Bolt%20UOVKEY=bolt%20uOVMTC=standardOVADID=4835093522OVKWID=42106146522 There prices are good and have lots of heavy hot dipped Galvanized. It seems, like in aircraft, if one goes to a radio comm equipment site the prices near double or sometimes much more. Thanks for the info on the threaded bolts. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Al Wolfe [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/07/13 Sun AM 01:59:28 EDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware Ron, I've often used All-Thread for U bolts and V bolts, you know, the continuously threaded rod often found at the local hardware store. The all-thread is easily wrapped around a piece of pipe or angle by putting one end into a vise and inserting the other end part way into a short section of 3/4 pipe or conduit and bent into shape around a mandrel. One might need to apply some heat to the rod if the bending angle is really sharp, but I've never had to with the ones I've delt with. The all-thread comes in many sizes and lengths and is easily cut to size with a hacksaw. (Do this only after it is bent to shape and some nuts screwed on before cutting!) The V shaped grooves of the all-thread bite into the tower leg and don't slip. Last year I disassembled an AM broadcast skirt antenna that I installed in 1975 using hardware held together with the all-thead U bolts I made back then. This was on a tower with four inch diameter legs. The tower was rusting from the inside of the legs and needed to be replaced but the 1/2 all-thread was still in perfect shape more than thirty years later. It goes without saying that these bolts need to be kept painted as they are bare steel. I used Rustoleum for this. After the first coat they got repainted every time we had the tower painted. Good luck, Al, K9SI Does anyone know of a source or V-clamps or the like for 5.25 legs??? This has to be hardware that will last 20 years and not hose clamps which I have. 73, ron, n9ee/r Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Measuring Desense
Randy, I think this is what we said, just little difference in the time. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: wb8art [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/07/12 Sat PM 07:51:59 EDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Measuring Desense I don't beleive that to be correct. The FCC has mandated 3 years for the continued carriage of analog. Some exceptions on small systems and low bandwidth but most will still carry analog. Randy --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Nate Duehr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Jul 12, 2008, at 9:31 AM, Ron Wright wrote: Understand the FCC has mandated typical coaxial cable keep analog to I think 2012 although they can offer digital on the cable as Bright House does here. Their set-top boxes have to provide analog service to the TV itself, but what they send down their distribution pipe is up to them. -- Nate Duehr [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware
Ditto on the all-thread U Bolts. We had a couple of station master antennas mounted on the side of a smaller tower and the mounting hardware would not work with a new tower due to the large diameter legs. The all-thread U bolts we made fit around the tower leg and back into the existing mounts and worked just fine. 73 - Jim W5ZIT --- On Sun, 7/13/08, Al Wolfe [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Al Wolfe [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, July 13, 2008, 12:59 AM Ron, I've often used All-Thread for U bolts and V bolts, you know, the continuously threaded rod often found at the local hardware store. The all-thread is easily wrapped around a piece of pipe or angle by putting one end into a vise and inserting the other end part way into a short section of 3/4 pipe or conduit and bent into shape around a mandrel. One might need to apply some heat to the rod if the bending angle is really sharp, but I've never had to with the ones I've delt with. The all-thread comes in many sizes and lengths and is easily cut to size with a hacksaw. (Do this only after it is bent to shape and some nuts screwed on before cutting!) The V shaped grooves of the all-thread bite into the tower leg and don't slip. Last year I disassembled an AM broadcast skirt antenna that I installed in 1975 using hardware held together with the all-thead U bolts I made back then. This was on a tower with four inch diameter legs. The tower was rusting from the inside of the legs and needed to be replaced but the 1/2 all-thread was still in perfect shape more than thirty years later. It goes without saying that these bolts need to be kept painted as they are bare steel. I used Rustoleum for this. After the first coat they got repainted every time we had the tower painted. Good luck, Al, K9SI Does anyone know of a source or V-clamps or the like for 5.25 legs??? This has to be hardware that will last 20 years and not hose clamps which I have. 73, ron, n9ee/r __._,_
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Measuring Desense [Signal Samplers]
For those who have a Unidapt kit, there is a product similar to the FXR coupler available from RF Industries. The RF Industries variable signal sampler is rated from 20-3000 MHz, 500 Watts power, 20-80 dB coupling. This device comes with type 'N' connectors which can be changed using the RF Industries Unidapt connectors. The part number is RFA-4059-A. It can also be ordered without the type N connectors. One supplier is: http://www.rfparts.com/unidapt.html
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Measuring Desense
Don't forget that the HX and HY series signal samplers are directional, which means that the forward and reverse responses can be asymmetrical- depending upon the position of the loop. In many cases, the capacitive coupling method of the HZ series is superior for applications calling for an iso-tee device. Choose wisely. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff DePolo Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 8:15 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Measuring Desense The one I use looks exactly like the one shown, but mine has a small disk at the end of the adjustable BNC probe. 73 - Jim W5ZIT The picture in the PDF is for a different model that uses a grounded loop (HX or HY series), not the capacitively-coupled (electrostatic) HZ series like the ones Ridge sells and the ones you and I have. On the capacitive ones, you can't short to the thru-line no matter how far you run the coupled section in because the center conductor on the coupled leg is recessed in from the end of the teflon. --- Jeff WN3A
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware
Al and Ron, I would prefer to use stainless steel threaded rod. washers, and nuts for this application. Such materials are readily available from McMaster-Carr and other industrial suppliers. For example, a six-foot length of 5/8-11 all-thread made of 316 stainless steel costs about $82, and shorter lengths are available. McMaster-Carr also sells both round-end and square-end stainless-steel U-bolts. You won't find this stuff at your local hardware store. More info here: www.mcmaster.com 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Al Wolfe Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 10:59 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware Ron, I've often used All-Thread for U bolts and V bolts, you know, the continuously threaded rod often found at the local hardware store. The all-thread is easily wrapped around a piece of pipe or angle by putting one end into a vise and inserting the other end part way into a short section of 3/4 pipe or conduit and bent into shape around a mandrel. One might need to apply some heat to the rod if the bending angle is really sharp, but I've never had to with the ones I've delt with. The all-thread comes in many sizes and lengths and is easily cut to size with a hacksaw. (Do this only after it is bent to shape and some nuts screwed on before cutting!) The V shaped grooves of the all-thread bite into the tower leg and don't slip. Last year I disassembled an AM broadcast skirt antenna that I installed in 1975 using hardware held together with the all-thead U bolts I made back then. This was on a tower with four inch diameter legs. The tower was rusting from the inside of the legs and needed to be replaced but the 1/2 all-thread was still in perfect shape more than thirty years later. It goes without saying that these bolts need to be kept painted as they are bare steel. I used Rustoleum for this. After the first coat they got repainted every time we had the tower painted. Good luck, Al, K9SI Does anyone know of a source or V-clamps or the like for 5.25 legs??? This has to be hardware that will last 20 years and not hose clamps which I have. 73, ron, n9ee/r
Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware
Eric, Thanks for the tip on the supplier. I would prefer the galvanized and fixed hardware for this, but might consider the all-threaded stock. Probably half dozen/six of the other. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/07/13 Sun PM 12:56:00 EDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware Al and Ron, I would prefer to use stainless steel threaded rod. washers, and nuts for this application. Such materials are readily available from McMaster-Carr and other industrial suppliers. For example, a six-foot length of 5/8-11 all-thread made of 316 stainless steel costs about $82, and shorter lengths are available. McMaster-Carr also sells both round-end and square-end stainless-steel U-bolts. You won't find this stuff at your local hardware store. More info here: www.mcmaster.com 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Al Wolfe Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 10:59 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware Ron, I've often used All-Thread for U bolts and V bolts, you know, the continuously threaded rod often found at the local hardware store. The all-thread is easily wrapped around a piece of pipe or angle by putting one end into a vise and inserting the other end part way into a short section of 3/4 pipe or conduit and bent into shape around a mandrel. One might need to apply some heat to the rod if the bending angle is really sharp, but I've never had to with the ones I've delt with. The all-thread comes in many sizes and lengths and is easily cut to size with a hacksaw. (Do this only after it is bent to shape and some nuts screwed on before cutting!) The V shaped grooves of the all-thread bite into the tower leg and don't slip. Last year I disassembled an AM broadcast skirt antenna that I installed in 1975 using hardware held together with the all-thead U bolts I made back then. This was on a tower with four inch diameter legs. The tower was rusting from the inside of the legs and needed to be replaced but the 1/2 all-thread was still in perfect shape more than thirty years later. It goes without saying that these bolts need to be kept painted as they are bare steel. I used Rustoleum for this. After the first coat they got repainted every time we had the tower painted. Good luck, Al, K9SI Does anyone know of a source or V-clamps or the like for 5.25 legs??? This has to be hardware that will last 20 years and not hose clamps which I have. 73, ron, n9ee/r Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware
Ron, Sure, I would go with galvanized all-thread and other hardware, but only if they were hot-dip galvanized which is the standard for hardware used by electrical utilities. Hot-dip galvanized threaded rod is actually threaded undersize and then galvanized- the zinc coating increases the diameter by a small amount. Ordinary galvanized all-thread rod is the more common version found in some hardware stores and home centers, and has the threading done after galvanizing. Such rods are extremely prone to corrosion cracks in the valleys of the thread, since they are bare metal at that location. Major communications supply houses like Tessco, Talley, and Hutton carry mounting hardware for tower applications. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 11:15 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware Eric, Thanks for the tip on the supplier. I would prefer the galvanized and fixed hardware for this, but might consider the all-threaded stock. Probably half dozen/six of the other. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wb6fly%40verizon.net Date: 2008/07/13 Sun PM 12:56:00 EDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware Al and Ron, I would prefer to use stainless steel threaded rod. washers, and nuts for this application. Such materials are readily available from McMaster-Carr and other industrial suppliers. For example, a six-foot length of 5/8-11 all-thread made of 316 stainless steel costs about $82, and shorter lengths are available. McMaster-Carr also sells both round-end and square-end stainless-steel U-bolts. You won't find this stuff at your local hardware store. More info here: www.mcmaster.com 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Al Wolfe Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 10:59 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware Ron, I've often used All-Thread for U bolts and V bolts, you know, the continuously threaded rod often found at the local hardware store. The all-thread is easily wrapped around a piece of pipe or angle by putting one end into a vise and inserting the other end part way into a short section of 3/4 pipe or conduit and bent into shape around a mandrel. One might need to apply some heat to the rod if the bending angle is really sharp, but I've never had to with the ones I've delt with. The all-thread comes in many sizes and lengths and is easily cut to size with a hacksaw. (Do this only after it is bent to shape and some nuts screwed on before cutting!) The V shaped grooves of the all-thread bite into the tower leg and don't slip. Last year I disassembled an AM broadcast skirt antenna that I installed in 1975 using hardware held together with the all-thead U bolts I made back then. This was on a tower with four inch diameter legs. The tower was rusting from the inside of the legs and needed to be replaced but the 1/2 all-thread was still in perfect shape more than thirty years later. It goes without saying that these bolts need to be kept painted as they are bare steel. I used Rustoleum for this. After the first coat they got repainted every time we had the tower painted. Good luck, Al, K9SI Does anyone know of a source or V-clamps or the like for 5.25 legs??? This has to be hardware that will last 20 years and not hose clamps which I have. 73, ron, n9ee/r Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware
Ron: I have had great luck using U-Bolt-It,Inc. Http://www.uboltit.com/index.html out of Houston, Texas. They have a extensive inventory of large size hot dipped galvanized U-Bolts, I have also had them make me Slant U-Bolts and Hook Bolts to mount antennas, on angle iron cross braces. You did not mention how high up the tower you were going to mount your station master antenna, but no matter its height. You do not want to go up there very often, and using bent all-thread is a train wreck waiting to happen, due to the stress set up in the root of the thread on the stretch side when you bend the all-thread. All-thread has many good uses, but none of them are on a tower. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, I am about to put up a Telewave Super Station Master up over 1000 ft above ground on a large tower. The legs at that level are 5.25 and am in need of hardware for securing the top and bottom mounts to the legs. I have all except the leg mounting hardware. I've looked at Tessco and know they can be expensive, but will pay for it for this install if I have to. Does anyone know of a source or V-clamps or the like for 5.25 legs??? This has to be hardware that will last 20 years and not hose clamps which I have. 73, ron, n9ee/r Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
Re: RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware
Eric, I went to McMaster-Carr and found U-bolts I needed. I tried Tessco and a few others, but they did not have large enough for my needs. McMaster-Carr had some nice ones and just what I needed. I did notice a big price difference in the Stainless-Steel and Hot-Dip Galvanized; 3:1 at the same sites for same item. I am sure for a good reason. I was also in need of a plate for mounting a top mount pipe to the tower. Found nice big one at SitePro1. Even though the pipe is only 1-5/8 the tower leg of 5.25 makes all the hardware expensive. Thanks for the info and site for the U-bolts. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/07/13 Sun PM 02:29:12 EDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware Ron, Sure, I would go with galvanized all-thread and other hardware, but only if they were hot-dip galvanized which is the standard for hardware used by electrical utilities. Hot-dip galvanized threaded rod is actually threaded undersize and then galvanized- the zinc coating increases the diameter by a small amount. Ordinary galvanized all-thread rod is the more common version found in some hardware stores and home centers, and has the threading done after galvanizing. Such rods are extremely prone to corrosion cracks in the valleys of the thread, since they are bare metal at that location. Major communications supply houses like Tessco, Talley, and Hutton carry mounting hardware for tower applications. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 11:15 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware Eric, Thanks for the tip on the supplier. I would prefer the galvanized and fixed hardware for this, but might consider the all-threaded stock. Probably half dozen/six of the other. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wb6fly%40verizon.net Date: 2008/07/13 Sun PM 12:56:00 EDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware Al and Ron, I would prefer to use stainless steel threaded rod. washers, and nuts for this application. Such materials are readily available from McMaster-Carr and other industrial suppliers. For example, a six-foot length of 5/8-11 all-thread made of 316 stainless steel costs about $82, and shorter lengths are available. McMaster-Carr also sells both round-end and square-end stainless-steel U-bolts. You won't find this stuff at your local hardware store. More info here: www.mcmaster.com 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Al Wolfe Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 10:59 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware Ron, I've often used All-Thread for U bolts and V bolts, you know, the continuously threaded rod often found at the local hardware store. The all-thread is easily wrapped around a piece of pipe or angle by putting one end into a vise and inserting the other end part way into a short section of 3/4 pipe or conduit and bent into shape around a mandrel. One might need to apply some heat to the rod if the bending angle is really sharp, but I've never had to with the ones I've delt with. The all-thread comes in many sizes and lengths and is easily cut to size with a hacksaw. (Do this only after it is bent to shape and some nuts screwed on before cutting!) The V shaped grooves of the all-thread bite into the tower leg and don't slip. Last year I disassembled an AM broadcast skirt antenna that I installed in 1975 using hardware held together with the all-thead U bolts I made back then. This was on a tower with four inch diameter legs. The tower was rusting from the inside of the legs and needed to be replaced but the 1/2 all-thread was still in perfect shape more than thirty years later. It goes without saying that these bolts need to be kept painted as they are bare steel. I used Rustoleum for this. After the first coat they got repainted every time we had the tower painted. Good luck, Al, K9SI Does anyone know of a source or V-clamps or the like for 5.25 legs??? This has to be hardware that will last 20 years and not hose clamps which I have. 73, ron, n9ee/r Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone,
[Repeater-Builder] VXR-7000
Help - someone tell me I'm not going bonkers. OK to put this post in context I fumble around PMR radio for events I run, have all the licenses from OFCOM and in my time programmed radios (HF and VHF) for humanitarian aid programs around the world. I've purchased a VXR-7000 repeater (used, but in as new condition by appearence). Programmed it up and it works. However its only pumping out 10/12 watts and seeing as my license allows up to 25 I'm keen to maximise coverage. Following the instructions about installtion of a duplexer I get the to bit where you hold the accessory button for 2 secs and push the PTT (Po shows) but the up / down buttons don't do nothing in adjusting the power out. Has anyone any ideas. Look forard to your replies.
[Repeater-Builder] VXR-7000
Help - someone tell me I'm not going bonkers. OK to put this post in context I fumble around PMR radio for events I run, have all the licenses from OFCOM and in my time programmed radios (HF and VHF) for humanitarian aid programs around the world. I've purchased a VXR-7000 repeater (used, but in as new condition by appearence). Programmed it up and it works. However its only pumping out 10/12 watts and seeing as my license allows up to 25 I'm keen to maximise coverage. Following the instructions about installtion of a duplexer I get the to bit where you hold the accessory button for 2 secs and push the PTT (Po shows) but the up / down buttons don't do nothing in adjusting the power out. Has anyone any ideas. Look forard to your replies.
[Repeater-Builder] Need a Switching Curcuit for AC/Battery Power
Hi, I have a need for switching AC and Battery power at our repeater site. Current setup is mains 230v AC and 12v Battery charging via solar cells. Due to the increasing chargers for mains (and still going up) we want to utilise battery power more and use the mains for back-up and when the batteries drop below 11v. The mains is connected to a power supply at 13.8v, this is in parallel with the batteries. I had built a small switching curcuit with 2x relays. One relay has the AC inline so the mains power supply can be turned off by the controller remotely or by the scheduler. The second relay was triggered by the AC line so that if the mains went off it would tell the controller which would then switch the repeater to low power mode, timers etc. The problem with the way I had set it up was that when the mains was switched off, even with a solid 12+v on the battery the relay would click continusally because the controller for some reason would see a low voltage and switch the mains relay back on. When the volts was back up to the 13.8v the mains relay would switch off again, back to battery power. I may be pulling straws here in what is actualy happening. I have tried to remendy the problem, and had it working for awhile, but it then started doing it again. I woud like some suggestions on what way to go? Should mention I am using a RLC-3 controlling the repeater and ower requirements. Thanks Kevin. Get Skype and call me for free. sparc_nz Description: Binary data
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need a Switching Curcuit for AC/Battery Power
What about on the controller only side, place some high capacity caps inline to help with the millisecond voltage change to curb the quick swithcing? --- On Sun, 7/13/08, Gmail - Kevin, Natalia, Stacey Rochelle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Gmail - Kevin, Natalia, Stacey Rochelle [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Need a Switching Curcuit for AC/Battery Power To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, July 13, 2008, 5:18 PM Hi, I have a need for switching AC and Battery power at our repeater site. Current setup is mains 230v AC and 12v Battery charging via solar cells. Due to the increasing chargers for mains (and still going up) we want to utilise battery power more and use the mains for back-up and when the batteries drop below 11v. The mains is connected to a power supply at 13.8v, this is in parallel with the batteries. I had built a small switching curcuit with 2x relays. One relay has the AC inline so the mains power supply can be turned off by the controller remotely or by the scheduler. The second relay was triggered by the AC line so that if the mains went off it would tell the controller which would then switch the repeater to low power mode, timers etc. The problem with the way I had set it up was that when the mains was switched off, even with a solid 12+v on the battery the relay would click continusally because the controller for some reason would see a low voltage and switch the mains relay back on. When the volts was back up to the 13.8v the mains relay would switch off again, back to battery power. I may be pulling straws here in what is actualy happening. I have tried to remendy the problem, and had it working for awhile, but it then started doing it again. I woud like some suggestions on what way to go? Should mention I am using a RLC-3 controlling the repeater and ower requirements. Thanks Kevin. Get Skype and call me for free.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need a Switching Circuit for AC/Battery Power
Kevin, I will assume that your solar panels, charge controller, and battery bank are sufficiently robust to handle the entire repeater load, including the accessories. The solar charge controller is a critical part of any solar panel installation, and it is important to ensure that it has complete control over battery charging. In other words, there should not be another source of charging current that flows into the battery. lest the charge controller lose track of the state of charge. Perhaps you can describe how you are regulating the charging of the batteries at this time. I suggest using Schottky diodes to isolate both the solar system and the mains power supply from the repeater load. The mains power supply output voltage may need to be adjusted slightly to compensate for the small (about 0.4 VDC) forward voltage drop of the diode. The problem with using relays to control power is that they consume power when energized, and that can be a significant load on a heavy-duty relay. You might look into using a solid-state relay based on a thyristor, which will probably have a TTL control input. From your description of the symptoms, it sounds like the battery voltage is varying enough between solar and mains sources, that it causes the controller to chase it in slow motion- a sort of relaxation oscillator effect. It may also be true that the battery voltage is dropping below the trip point when the repeater is transmitting, possibly because the battery is not sufficiently charged. Some power supplies are unable to start up with a load connected, and that characteristic may complicate your switchover scheme. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gmail - Kevin, Natalia, Stacey Rochelle Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 2:19 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Need a Switching Circuit for AC/Battery Power Hi, I have a need for switching AC and Battery power at our repeater site. Current setup is mains 230v AC and 12v Battery charging via solar cells. Due to the increasing charges for mains (and still going up) we want to utilise battery power more and use the mains for back-up and when the batteries drop below 11v. The mains is connected to a power supply at 13.8v, this is in parallel with the batteries. I had built a small switching circuit with 2x relays. One relay has the AC inline so the mains power supply can be turned off by the controller remotely or by the scheduler. The second relay was triggered by the AC line so that if the mains went off it would tell the controller which would then switch the repeater to low power mode, timers etc. The problem with the way I had set it up was that when the mains was switched off, even with a solid 12+v on the battery the relay would click continusally because the controller for some reason would see a low voltage and switch the mains relay back on. When the volts was back up to the 13.8v the mains relay would switch off again, back to battery power. I may be pulling straws here in what is actually happening. I have tried to remedy the problem, and had it working for awhile, but it then started doing it again. I would like some suggestions on what way to go? Should mention I am using a RLC-3 controlling the repeater and power requirements. Thanks Kevin
RE: [Repeater-Builder] VXR-7000
The software CE29 has a help feature press F1 to access it. The TX alignment must be done in base mode. In other words make sure the base/repeater light is off on the front panel when doing this and use a wattmeter and proper dummy load. good luck. Alan Rabin WA2AR Enlight Comm. Inc. - Original Message - From: james_thurlow2003 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: 7/13/2008 5:03:18 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] VXR-7000 Help - someone tell me I'm not going bonkers. OK to put this post in context I fumble around PMR radio for events I run, have all the licenses from OFCOM and in my time programmed radios (HF and VHF) for humanitarian aid programs around the world. I've purchased a VXR-7000 repeater (used, but in as new condition by appearence). Programmed it up and it works. However its only pumping out 10/12 watts and seeing as my license allows up to 25 I'm keen to maximise coverage. Following the instructions about installtion of a duplexer I get the to bit where you hold the accessory button for 2 secs and push the PTT (Po shows) but the up / down buttons don't do nothing in adjusting the power out. Has anyone any ideas. Look forard to your replies. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.10/1549 - Release Date: 7/12/2008 4:31 PM
RE: [Repeater-Builder] VXR-7000
James, Make sure the repeater is programmed to the proper TX/RX/ pl/DPL etc. frequencies before attempting alignment as noted in previous post. Good Luck, Alan Rabin WA2AR Enlight Communications Inc. www.enlightcomm.com - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: 7/13/2008 5:49:53 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] VXR-7000 The software CE29 has a help feature press F1 to access it. The TX alignment must be done in base mode. In other words make sure the base/repeater light is off on the front panel when doing this and use a wattmeter and proper dummy load. good luck. Alan Rabin WA2AR Enlight Comm. Inc. - Original Message - From: james_thurlow2003 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: 7/13/2008 5:03:18 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] VXR-7000 Help - someone tell me I'm not going bonkers. OK to put this post in context I fumble around PMR radio for events I run, have all the licenses from OFCOM and in my time programmed radios (HF and VHF) for humanitarian aid programs around the world. I've purchased a VXR-7000 repeater (used, but in as new condition by appearence). Programmed it up and it works. However its only pumping out 10/12 watts and seeing as my license allows up to 25 I'm keen to maximise coverage. Following the instructions about installtion of a duplexer I get the to bit where you hold the accessory button for 2 secs and push the PTT (Po shows) but the up / down buttons don't do nothing in adjusting the power out. Has anyone any ideas. Look forard to your replies. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.10/1549 - Release Date: 7/12/2008 4:31 PM No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.10/1549 - Release Date: 7/12/2008 4:31 PM
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need a Switching Curcuit for AC/Battery Power
Hi Kevin, I have a need for switching AC and Battery power at our repeater site. Current setup is mains 230v AC and 12v Battery charging via solar cells. Due to the increasing chargers for mains (and still going up) we want to utilise battery power more and use the mains for back-up and when the batteries drop below 11v. The mains is connected to a power supply at 13.8v, this is in parallel with the batteries. It would be prudent at this point to say you really need to have enough battery capacity in place to run the equipment for x-minutes of time. You might want to consider the position where your system is primarily a battery operated package or a mains operated system with battery backup. I had built a small switching curcuit with 2x relays. One relay has the AC inline so the mains power supply can be turned off by the controller remotely or by the scheduler. In the real world... most often a recipe for trouble. The second relay was triggered by the AC line so that if the mains went off it would tell the controller which would then switch the repeater to low power mode, timers etc. You don't have to use a relay but what ever works and is easy. The problem with the way I had set it up was that when the mains was switched off, even with a solid 12+v on the battery the relay would click continually because the controller for some reason would see a low voltage and switch the mains relay back on. When the volts was back up to the 13.8v the mains relay would switch off again, back to battery power. I may be pulling straws here in what is actually happening. The relay control circuit needs sample input conditioning, RF immunity and hysteresis for proper operation. I have tried to remedy the problem, and had it working for awhile, but it then started doing it again. I would like some suggestions on what way to go? If the system battery capacity is enough... you would need to replace the relay control circuit with one containing the above mentioned considerations. Then replace or retrofit the power supplies from regulated sources to actual battery charging circuits of the proper type. As a general rule regular regulated power supplied don't make the best battery chargers. Should mention I am using a RLC-3 controlling the repeater and ower requirements. Thanks Kevin. I make commercial circuits for this type of situation. If no one comes up with an easy answer you like... Email me direct and I'll give you some additional information (free) if you want to roll (make) your own. cheers, skipp skipp025 at yahoo.com www.radiowrench.com
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Yaesu FT-2800 Solutions
Me too! I would like the info as well. [EMAIL PROTECTED] WA Brown - Original Message - From: Dave Cochran To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 11:56 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Yaesu FT-2800 Solutions Same here.. [EMAIL PROTECTED] will do it :) TIA On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 8:59 PM, Mike (WM4B) Besemer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dave, I'm looking for info on the COS signal and external circuitry. Please email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] Mike WM4B --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, wb7cjq [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Anybody wanting to use the 2800 as the receive side of a repeater and/or remote base or Echolink system, I have (as of today) the answers!!! I can get you discriminator level gated audio as well as a COS type signal. Both will require external circuitry, but I've found those hidden little guys!!! Email or just post here. 73, Dave. -- -- Every electronic device is manufactured with smoke stored deep inside... only a true genius can find a way to set it free.
[Repeater-Builder] ISO Slow Computer for R100 repeater programming
Where does one fine a CHEAP but reliable old computer for this purpose. I understand that if the clock speed is too fast it can turn the machine into an expensive doorstop. I am not seeking the RSS software, just a slow computer with DOS on it to run the software with, I am located in Southeastern Indiana does anyone know where one can be found? A laptop would be the best and I assume one could be mailed, or a desktop in the Cincinnati or southern Indiana area could be picked up. We do not have a lot of money as we have been rebuilding our repeater system and the membership of the club isnt too enthusiastic about contributing till the repeater is fixed ( Catch 22 ) Thanks in advance for you assistance.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] ISO Slow Computer for R100 repeater programming
You can get them on eBay for under $50.00 if you're patient. We use PII's running around 250 MHz, although I've successfully use a PIII @ 600 MHz (my specific laptop for RSS). John Reid wrote: Where does one fine a CHEAP but reliable old computer for this purpose. I understand that if the clock speed is too fast it can turn the machine into an expensive doorstop. I am not seeking the RSS software, just a slow computer with DOS on it to run the software with, I am located in Southeastern Indiana does anyone know where one can be found? A laptop would be the best and I assume one could be mailed, or a desktop in the Cincinnati or southern Indiana area could be picked up. We do not have a lot of money as we have been rebuilding our repeater system and the membership of the club isnt too enthusiastic about contributing till the repeater is fixed ( Catch 22 ) Thanks in advance for you assistance.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] ISO Slow Computer for R100 repeater programming
John, It is hard to give away old computers these days, even some that are 3-4 years old. I have about 5 nice CRT type monitors I've offered for coming to get them and no one even responds. I bought a 486 IBM lap top at a Hamfest for $10 that actually worked and had external floppy with it, but some at the same Hamfest went for $100 and a friend of mine bought one of these that did not work. I bought mine just the same purpose you need. For your RSS programming I would recommend a 486. It should be slow enough for this. I also use a desktop 486 for programming Mot HTs. With the club I would get the repeater working and charge them double and maybe something for your time. It is with so many wanting others to do the work, they get the benfits and still complain, but still will not lift a finger. If they will not pay take the repeater and sell on e-bay, hi. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: John Reid [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/07/13 Sun PM 07:29:39 EDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] ISO Slow Computer for R100 repeater programming Where does one fine a CHEAP but reliable old computer for this purpose. I understand that if the clock speed is too fast it can turn the machine into an expensive doorstop. I am not seeking the RSS software, just a slow computer with DOS on it to run the software with, I am located in Southeastern Indiana does anyone know where one can be found? A laptop would be the best and I assume one could be mailed, or a desktop in the Cincinnati or southern Indiana area could be picked up. We do not have a lot of money as we have been rebuilding our repeater system and the membership of the club isnt too enthusiastic about contributing till the repeater is fixed ( Catch 22 ) Thanks in advance for you assistance. Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
[Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources
We have two repeaters, plus an IRLP computer, on one emergency-fed circuit at a hospital. There are normally no problems with this. During a recent storm, the AC panel circuit breaker tripped, taking everything down in the middle of our Skywarn net. There are two receptacles near our equipment. One is normal power, the other is the red Critical Power receptacle. What problems would anyone see if we would feed everything from the normal power circuit, and if it would ever trip off, switch to the red receptacle. That way, if lightning trips the normal circuit, we would instantly feed our equipment from the red receptacle. This sounds so simple, and I'm inclined to build such a setup, but am I missing something obvious that could cause problems? Any better ideas? Laryn K8TVZ
[Repeater-Builder] Re: ISO Slow Computer for R100 repeater programming
The R100 programming software requires a 8088 or 286 no faster than 10 mHz. Not too many of those left still working... John, you could send the EEProms to me or Andy. We can program them for you. John Reid [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Where does one fine a CHEAP but reliable old computer for this purpose. I understand that if the clock speed is too fast it can turn the machine into an expensive doorstop. I am not seeking the RSS software, just a slow computer with DOS on it to run the software with, I am located in Southeastern Indiana does anyone know where one can be found? A laptop would be the best and I assume one could be mailed, or a desktop in the Cincinnati or southern Indiana area could be picked up. We do not have a lot of money as we have been rebuilding our repeater system and the membership of the club isnt too enthusiastic about contributing till the repeater is fixed ( Catch 22 ) Thanks in advance for you assistance.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources
I work in a hospital, so I have some insight into this. First off, at least in Missouri, the receptacles, wiring, and circuit breakers are rated for 20 amps each. SO, normally, this would not be a problem. In fact, you could probably run the radio systems entirely on the red receptacles all the time. I wouldn't try to put in any kind of relay, or transfer switch, as that's handled down near the generators. HOWEVER, I would definitely run this past the hospital's electricians to ensure that the circuits involved do not have something else sharing the circuit. Sometimes, alas, several receptacles may be fed by only one circuit. This may have been the case with your white receptacles as well. So you need to make sure that there's nothing else on that circuit that will overload things. I'll mention this, look and see if there was a laser printer on the white circuit. They have high instatenous loads as they heat up the fuser drum, and it might've been the combination of your power supplies and the printer coming on that tripped the breaker. And keep the printer on the white receps, as there's almost no reason to have a laser printer on emergency power (unless an administrator orders it). Ray Brown, CBET, BMET II(KB0STN) Laryn Lohman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: We have two repeaters, plus an IRLP computer, on one emergency-fed circuit at a hospital. There are normally no problems with this. During a recent storm, the AC panel circuit breaker tripped, taking everything down in the middle of our Skywarn net. There are two receptacles near our equipment. One is normal power, the other is the red Critical Power receptacle. What problems would anyone see if we would feed everything from the normal power circuit, and if it would ever trip off, switch to the red receptacle. That way, if lightning trips the normal circuit, we would instantly feed our equipment from the red receptacle. This sounds so simple, and I'm inclined to build such a setup, but am I missing something obvious that could cause problems? Any better ideas? Laryn K8TVZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources
On Sun, 13 Jul 2008, Ray Brown wrote: Laryn Lohman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: We have two repeaters, plus an IRLP computer, on one emergency-fed circuit at a hospital. There are normally no problems with this. During a recent storm, the AC panel circuit breaker tripped, taking everything down in the middle of our Skywarn net. There are two receptacles near our equipment. One is normal power, the other is the red Critical Power receptacle. What problems would anyone see if we would feed everything from the normal power circuit, and if it would ever trip off, switch to the red receptacle. That way, if lightning trips the normal circuit, we would instantly feed our equipment from the red receptacle. Plug the repeaters into the red outlet, and plug everything else into the white outlet. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR [EMAIL PROTECTED] But remember, with no superpowers comes no responsibility. --rly
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources
Laryn, The simple, and most practical solution, is to use a 3PDT AC relay to switch between normal and emergency sources. Feed the coil of the relay from your normal source, and wire the hot, neutral, and ground from the normal source to the NO contacts, and the hot, neutral, and ground wires from the emergency source to the NC contacts. The common (swinger) leads go to your repeater. This way, the relay normally stays energized, and the now-closed NO contacts feed your repeater. When the normal buss fails, the relay relaxes and closes the NC contact to connect your repeater to the emergency buss. Voila! It is important to switch all three power leads, not just the hot lead, because neutrals from separate sources cannot be made common- especially when a separately-derived power source is involved- and the equipment grounds must guide any fault current back to the source via the most direct route, which is alongside the respective hot conductor. You might discuss this issue with the hospital electrician, since the critical buss may already be supplied from the normal buss during normal operation. If that's true, the proposed relay scheme is redundant. But, before you do anything, find out what caused that tripped circuit breaker- there may be a dangerous condition that must be fixed. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Laryn Lohman Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 5:18 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources We have two repeaters, plus an IRLP computer, on one emergency-fed circuit at a hospital. There are normally no problems with this. During a recent storm, the AC panel circuit breaker tripped, taking everything down in the middle of our Skywarn net. There are two receptacles near our equipment. One is normal power, the other is the red Critical Power receptacle. What problems would anyone see if we would feed everything from the normal power circuit, and if it would ever trip off, switch to the red receptacle. That way, if lightning trips the normal circuit, we would instantly feed our equipment from the red receptacle. This sounds so simple, and I'm inclined to build such a setup, but am I missing something obvious that could cause problems? Any better ideas? Laryn K8TVZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources
Laryn, Your thinking is good. A simple relay, 3 pole/double throw would do what you want and power the relay coil with your normal AC power. When it goes the relay drops out and connects the repeater to the RED emergency outlet. As someone else suggested switch all 3 wires of hot, neutral and safety ground just to make sure you are not connecting something that you should not. Some suggest runing the repeater on the RED emergency outlet and all else on the normal outlet. You need to check to see if this RED outlet is powered all the time and not just when the gen/emergency power is running. Since it goes to the generator it might not be. Easy to check by plugging a lamp under normal power conditions. The only problems I see is the sudden switching back and forth that might occur quickly serval times in a short period. Like turning on/off the repeater power supply rapidly, but don't think this would be an issue. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Laryn Lohman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/07/13 Sun PM 08:17:51 EDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources We have two repeaters, plus an IRLP computer, on one emergency-fed circuit at a hospital. There are normally no problems with this. During a recent storm, the AC panel circuit breaker tripped, taking everything down in the middle of our Skywarn net. There are two receptacles near our equipment. One is normal power, the other is the red Critical Power receptacle. What problems would anyone see if we would feed everything from the normal power circuit, and if it would ever trip off, switch to the red receptacle. That way, if lightning trips the normal circuit, we would instantly feed our equipment from the red receptacle. This sounds so simple, and I'm inclined to build such a setup, but am I missing something obvious that could cause problems? Any better ideas? Laryn K8TVZ Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources
Sorry, Ron, I disagree with the relay idea. If it's critical that the radio power supply be up all the time, then run it in the emergency circuits, which ARE active all the time. Our main ambulance radio and our maintenance repeater are on emergency power, as I specificied and coordinated the istallation of both of them myself. The only switching occurs when the power goes down, all receptacles (both white and red are now dead) then the generators fire up within 15 seconds, stabilize, and transfer the feed of the red receptacles from the outside utility to the generators. Power switches back automatically after utility power has been restored and stays up for at least 5 continuous minutes with no dropouts. Then the generators run on cool-down for at least 10 minutes. My CBET rating means I'm certified as a Biomedical Equipment Technician on 6 levels of the proper care and feeding of medical instrumentation, including power supplies. :-) And, Laryn, I re-read your initial statement. You had 2 repeaters AND a computer on the same circuit, and it tripped? Again, what all was on that circuit? If the printer was also on that same circuit, you need to get it off the red and on the white. But even 100 watt repeaters with linear supplies should only draw 4 amps each on full load, plus 4 for the PC and display. Something else is on the circuit. Shame you can't take pictures. Check with the hospital electrician and see what's up. Good luck! Ray Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Laryn, Your thinking is good. A simple relay, 3 pole/double throw would do what you want and power the relay coil with your normal AC power. When it goes the relay drops out and connects the repeater to the RED emergency outlet. As someone else suggested switch all 3 wires of hot, neutral and safety ground just to make sure you are not connecting something that you should not. Some suggest runing the repeater on the RED emergency outlet and all else on the normal outlet. You need to check to see if this RED outlet is powered all the time and not just when the gen/emergency power is running. Since it goes to the generator it might not be. Easy to check by plugging a lamp under normal power conditions. The only problems I see is the sudden switching back and forth that might occur quickly serval times in a short period. Like turning on/off the repeater power supply rapidly, but don't think this would be an issue. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Laryn Lohman Date: 2008/07/13 Sun PM 08:17:51 EDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources We have two repeaters, plus an IRLP computer, on one emergency-fed circuit at a hospital. There are normally no problems with this. During a recent storm, the AC panel circuit breaker tripped, taking everything down in the middle of our Skywarn net. There are two receptacles near our equipment. One is normal power, the other is the red Critical Power receptacle. What problems would anyone see if we would feed everything from the normal power circuit, and if it would ever trip off, switch to the red receptacle. That way, if lightning trips the normal circuit, we would instantly feed our equipment from the red receptacle. This sounds so simple, and I'm inclined to build such a setup, but am I missing something obvious that could cause problems? Any better ideas? Laryn K8TVZ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] ISO Slow Computer for R100 repeater programming
I use a Dell Latitude XPi, P133 laptopfor all my Bendix-King programming... I see several on E-Bay right now for less than $50. George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413 - Original Message - From: John Reid [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 6:29 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] ISO Slow Computer for R100 repeater programming Where does one fine a CHEAP but reliable old computer for this purpose. I understand that if the clock speed is too fast it can turn the machine into an expensive doorstop. I am not seeking the RSS software, just a slow computer with DOS on it to run the software with, I am located in Southeastern Indiana does anyone know where one can be found? A laptop would be the best and I assume one could be mailed, or a desktop in the Cincinnati or southern Indiana area could be picked up. We do not have a lot of money as we have been rebuilding our repeater system and the membership of the club isnt too enthusiastic about contributing till the repeater is fixed ( Catch 22 ) Thanks in advance for you assistance.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources
At 07:07 PM 07/13/08, you wrote: Laryn, Your thinking is good. A simple relay, 3 pole/double throw would do what you want and power the relay coil with your normal AC power. When it goes the relay drops out and connects the repeater to the RED emergency outlet. As someone else suggested switch all 3 wires of hot, neutral and safety ground just to make sure you are not connecting something that you should not. Some suggest runing the repeater on the RED emergency outlet and all else on the normal outlet. You need to check to see if this RED outlet is powered all the time and not just when the gen/emergency power is running. Since it goes to the generator it might not be. Easy to check by plugging a lamp under normal power conditions. The only problems I see is the sudden switching back and forth that might occur quickly serval times in a short period. Like turning on/off the repeater power supply rapidly, but don't think this would be an issue. 73, ron, n9ee/r I long long time ago no, wrong story. More years than I want to think about I was at a local 2-way shop trying to beg a cabinet... the owner pointed at a old Moto 6 foot one in the corner and said clean it out, leave me the radio, take the rest. So here I was, stripping down a radio cabinet that had come out of a hospital elevator room. It turned out to be a Motrac series 90w high band paging station. The power wiring was exactly as this comment thread was describing, with two power plugs (one labeled Normal and one labeled Generator), and a 4PDT contactor relay that made the entire cabinet jump an inch when it pulled in with a BANG (the contacts were 440vAC 50a rated on a 120vAC coil). The overall design had a clock-motor-driven timer that used a cam and a roller microswitch that implemented a 15 minute delay between generator power and normal power. In other words, a switchover from normal to generator was instantaneous, but normal power had to be on for 15 minutes before the radio system was switched back to it. The box the contactor and timer were in had a rotary switch labeled normal, generator and automatic, with a note saying For bench test use generator cord and set this switch to generator. But this is old technology. Modern electrical practice is that the red outlets are hot all the time, and the white outlets die during a power failure. So the relay is totally un-necessary. Just plug the system into a red outlet, and design it so that a short (one minute or so) outage does not cause any discontent (maybe have an AGM battery in the bottom of the rack). One last comment - the hospital electrician may be keeping a list of what is on the generator outlets. Or maybe the administrative people are. Or maybe there are some other rules. Maybe the local inspectors has their nose in the hospitals electrical business. If I were in your shoes I'd get permission in writing from someone in the hospital before I plugged into that red outlet. I can envision a future situation where someone does a red-outlet-audit and finds your box, and it turns out that the recently-retired electrician gave you verbal permission a year ago, and the new guy has no idea who you are. Then the waste matter hits the rotary airfoil. I'm mentioning this because a friend works at a local convalescent hospital... they recently did a red-outlet-audit (the first in several years) and discovered that they are at 93% of generator capacity... they thought (guessed?) they were at 45-50%. Right now they are seeing what can be shed... i.e. moved from red to white, as a generator upgrade would be a political and financial nightmare (they would have to replace the underground diesel fuel tank with one that is much larger, and that would require major permits / costs / demolition / costs / installation / costs / certification / costs - and that is just for the tank. Then you have to fill it at over $5 a gallon. Then you have the same merry-go-round on upgrading the generator and it's controls and the load transfer switch. Mike WA6ILQ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources
Not sure why everyone is having such a hard time understanding the problem here, while unusual, for the red to go dead, it does happen. As was originally stated he thought lightning may have kicked it. So red is dead and white is light (on). So even though a relay (3 pole) sounds like the ticket I doubt you would get the contraption past the biomed electricians. Everything has to be at lwats UL approved and they won't like the thought of anything connected across the main buss and the gen buss. What about a battery bank on a charger on the red or white bank and the regular power supply on the other with diods for switching and isolation. That way you would isolate the main busses by more than a relay and the chance if backfeeding would be almost 0 Just my thoughts. Rob. Ks4ec Sent by Good Messaging (www.good.com) -Original Message- From: Ray Brown [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 10:30 PM Eastern Standard Time To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject:Re: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources Sorry, Ron, I disagree with the relay idea. If it's critical that the radio power supply be up all the time, then run it in the emergency circuits, which ARE active all the time. Our main ambulance radio and our maintenance repeater are on emergency power, as I specificied and coordinated the istallation of both of them myself. The only switching occurs when the power goes down, all receptacles (both white and red are now dead) then the generators fire up within 15 seconds, stabilize, and transfer the feed of the red receptacles from the outside utility to the generators. Power switches back automatically after utility power has been restored and stays up for at least 5 continuous minutes with no dropouts. Then the generators run on cool-down for at least 10 minutes. My CBET rating means I'm certified as a Biomedical Equipment Technician on 6 levels of the proper care and feeding of medical instrumentation, including power supplies. :-) And, Laryn, I re-read your initial statement. You had 2 repeaters AND a computer on the same circuit, and it tripped? Again, what all was on that circuit? If the printer was also on that same circuit, you need to get it off the red and on the white. But even 100 watt repeaters with linear supplies should only draw 4 amps each on full load, plus 4 for the PC and display. Something else is on the circuit. Shame you can't take pictures. Check with the hospital electrician and see what's up. Good luck! Ray Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Laryn, Your thinking is good. A simple relay, 3 pole/double throw would do what you want and power the relay coil with your normal AC power. When it goes the relay drops out and connects the repeater to the RED emergency outlet. As someone else suggested switch all 3 wires of hot, neutral and safety ground just to make sure you are not connecting something that you should not. Some suggest runing the repeater on the RED emergency outlet and all else on the normal outlet. You need to check to see if this RED outlet is powered all the time and not just when the gen/emergency power is running. Since it goes to the generator it might not be. Easy to check by plugging a lamp under normal power conditions. The only problems I see is the sudden switching back and forth that might occur quickly serval times in a short period. Like turning on/off the repeater power supply rapidly, but don't think this would be an issue. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Laryn Lohman Date: 2008/07/13 Sun PM 08:17:51 EDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources We have two repeaters, plus an IRLP computer, on one emergency-fed circuit at a hospital. There are normally no problems with this. During a recent storm, the AC panel circuit breaker tripped, taking everything down in the middle of our Skywarn net. There are two receptacles near our equipment. One is normal power, the other is the red Critical Power receptacle. What problems would anyone see if we would feed everything from the normal power circuit, and if it would ever trip off, switch to the red receptacle. That way, if lightning trips the normal circuit, we would instantly feed our equipment from the red receptacle. This sounds so simple, and I'm inclined to build such a setup, but am I missing something obvious that could cause problems? Any better ideas? Laryn K8TVZ Since 1974, the award-winning Alpert JFCS has helped families of all faiths throughout most of Palm Beach County, FL, via counseling, seniors services, residences for the disabled, mentoring children, support groups and a lot more. SOLUTIONS FOR LIVING www.JFCSonline.com Please take note of our new website and E-Mail Addresses. Please update your contacts ASAP.
[Repeater-Builder] do you believe this
hi all, This kinda repeater related, but do you believe this: http://www.koreus.com/video/telephone-portable-mais-popcorn.html Popping pop corn with a cel phone video. 73, ron, n9ee/r Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources
RAy, If you read my reply I stated make sure the RED outlets are powered at all times by testing with a simple lamp if you want to use all the time. Different states have different codes for Hospitals so would just have to check. I would think the hospital electrical dept would have to notified to make sure the repeater equipment could be connected to the RED outlet. Many times only certain equipment is allowed to prevent overload and other problems. The relay would work if having to switch between outlets. If the RED outlet is powered at all times then probably best to use if allowed. As for UL as someone else mentioned I assure you there are parts of that Ham repeater that do not have UL. Probably low voltage or current, but there are parts in there, but after things like power supplies that are UL. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Ray Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/07/13 Sun PM 10:28:21 EDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources Sorry, Ron, I disagree with the relay idea. If it's critical that the radio power supply be up all the time, then run it in the emergency circuits, which ARE active all the time. Our main ambulance radio and our maintenance repeater are on emergency power, as I specificied and coordinated the istallation of both of them myself./div div /div div The only switching occurs when the power goes down, all receptacles (both white and red are now dead) then the generators fire up within 15 seconds, stabilize, and transfer the feed of the red receptacles from the outside utility to the generators. Power switches back automatically after utility power has been restored and stays up for at least 5 continuous minutes with no dropouts. Then the generators run on cool-down for at least 10 minutes.BR/div div My CBET rating means I'm certified as a Biomedical Equipment Technician on 6 levels of the proper care and feeding of medical instrumentation, including power supplies. :-) And, Laryn, I re-read your initial statement. You had 2 repeaters AND a computer on the same circuit, and it tripped? Again, what all was on that circuit? If the printer was also on that same circuit, you need to get it off the red and on the white. But even 100 watt repeaters with linear supplies should only draw 4 amps each on full load, plus 4 for the PC and display. Something else is on the circuit. Shame you can't take pictures. Check with the hospital electrician and see what's up. Good luck! Ray Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Laryn, Your thinking is good. A simple relay, 3 pole/double throw would do what you want and power the relay coil with your normal AC power. When it goes the relay drops out and connects the repeater to the RED emergency outlet. As someone else suggested switch all 3 wires of hot, neutral and safety ground just to make sure you are not connecting something that you should not. Some suggest runing the repeater on the RED emergency outlet and all else on the normal outlet. You need to check to see if this RED outlet is powered all the time and not just when the gen/emergency power is running. Since it goes to the generator it might not be. Easy to check by plugging a lamp under normal power conditions. The only problems I see is the sudden switching back and forth that might occur quickly serval times in a short period. Like turning on/off the repeater power supply rapidly, but don't think this would be an issue. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Laryn Lohman Date: 2008/07/13 Sun PM 08:17:51 EDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources We have two repeaters, plus an IRLP computer, on one emergency-fed circuit at a hospital. There are normally no problems with this. During a recent storm, the AC panel circuit breaker tripped, taking everything down in the middle of our Skywarn net. There are two receptacles near our equipment. One is normal power, the other is the red Critical Power receptacle. What problems would anyone see if we would feed everything from the normal power circuit, and if it would ever trip off, switch to the red receptacle. That way, if lightning trips the normal circuit, we would instantly feed our equipment from the red receptacle. This sounds so simple, and I'm inclined to build such a setup, but am I missing something obvious that could cause problems? Any better ideas? Laryn K8TVZ Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources
Thanks for the great posts so far. Perhaps I didn't make it clear in my original post--our equipment is and always has been plugged into the red receptacle. It was installed by hospital electricians a number of years ago for us, and we are the sole load on the circuit. It was the recent storm, and presumed lightning strike, that tripped the AC breaker in the emergency breaker panel in the penthouse where our stuff is. The point of all this is that the breaker tripped, leaving our equipment with no power duh hehehe. So I was proposing a method of implementing a backup breaker in case one breaker trips. My proposal is that our normal, daily supply would be the white receptacle. If it goes dead, whether from utility failure or breaker trip, we have the red receptacle, which will then be ready to feed our stuff. The reason we would not want to be on the red receptacle normally is that in case of a lightning strike we are potentially left with a dead red from the strike, and dead white if the utility is down. Obviously, another strike, after we've switched to the red, kills AC totally to our stuff. The presumption is that a breaker probably won't trip, even after a strike, if there's not a load of some sort on it to complete a path for the tripping current. Make sense? Eric, I think you're on my line of thinking. Good point on keeping the greens isolated. Laryn K8TVZ
[Repeater-Builder] MSF5000 CLB
HI All I have a MSF 5000 CLB with a Arcom 210 controller on it. It work good but the incode dose not work. I have a tone of 114.8. When I put on the Tone (PL) it is ok. But when I put the Tone SQL on it will key up the repeater but no audio will come out. I am getting the PL tone from U829 pin 14. I had Andy burn me a EPROM and I have been tolking to him about it. It is not the EPROM. Any help would be great. Bob kd7ikz
RE: [Repeater-Builder] do you believe this
Probably a magnetron under the table. Correction is http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1399627/cell_phone_popcorn_hoax_revealed/ tom [Original Message] From: Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: 7/13/2008 11:10:06 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] do you believe this hi all, This kinda repeater related, but do you believe this: http://www.koreus.com/video/telephone-portable-mais-popcorn.html Popping pop corn with a cel phone video. 73, ron, n9ee/r Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.10/1549 - Release Date: 7/12/2008 4:31 PM
Re: [Repeater-Builder] do you believe this
It's BS. It's part of a viral marketing campaign from a headset company. Ron Wright wrote: hi all, This kinda repeater related, but do you believe this: http://www.koreus.com/video/telephone-portable-mais-popcorn.html Popping pop corn with a cel phone video. 73, ron, n9ee/r Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. -- John Smokey Behr Gleichweit FF1/EMT, CCNA, MCSE IPN-CAL023 N6FOG UP Fresno Sub MP183.5 ECV1852 List Owner x6, Moderator x4 CA-OES 51-507 http://smokeybehr.blogspot.com http://www.myspace.com/smokeybehr
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources
Why not use a UPS? Plug the repeater and equipment into the UPS and then plug the UPS into the receptacle of choice. Might be cheaper and easier to do this then to design, test, get permission from the hospital to install, install it and maintain it. I am sure that the hospital is going to want to make sure what you install is approved for such use. Some ups's provide a serial port for communication to a serial device, maybe you can access it remotely via packet to check status, logs and battery condition. Eric. Laryn Lohman wrote: We have two repeaters, plus an IRLP computer, on one emergency-fed circuit at a hospital. There are normally no problems with this. During a recent storm, the AC panel circuit breaker tripped, taking everything down in the middle of our Skywarn net. There are two receptacles near our equipment. One is normal power, the other is the red Critical Power receptacle. What problems would anyone see if we would feed everything from the normal power circuit, and if it would ever trip off, switch to the red receptacle. That way, if lightning trips the normal circuit, we would instantly feed our equipment from the red receptacle. This sounds so simple, and I'm inclined to build such a setup, but am I missing something obvious that could cause problems? Any better ideas? Laryn K8TVZ
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources
It would have to be a very large, very high capacity UPS, in order to handle the current the transmitters draw. This would be very expensive. Maybe you could install a battery bank with a good quality four stage charger to power the repeaters. When the power drops, since the repeaters are already running on batteries, the switchover would be seamless. Your IRLP computer could be powered with a 1500 watt or better UPS. This should allow sufficient runtime, plus the higher capacity should get you out of the cheapo consumer grade UPS category. As Eric suggests, you could plug the serial cable into the computer, and with the right software, the node could monitor the battery voltage when it is running on the UPS, then shut the computer down gracefully if the voltage drops too low. Richard http://www.n7tgb.net/ www.n7tgb.net _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Eric M. Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 9:25 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources Why not use a UPS? Plug the repeater and equipment into the UPS and then plug the UPS into the receptacle of choice. Might be cheaper and easier to do this then to design, test, get permission from the hospital to install, install it and maintain it. I am sure that the hospital is going to want to make sure what you install is approved for such use. Some ups's provide a serial port for communication to a serial device, maybe you can access it remotely via packet to check status, logs and battery condition. Eric. Laryn Lohman wrote: We have two repeaters, plus an IRLP computer, on one emergency-fed circuit at a hospital. There are normally no problems with this. During a recent storm, the AC panel circuit breaker tripped, taking everything down in the middle of our Skywarn net. There are two receptacles near our equipment. One is normal power, the other is the red Critical Power receptacle. What problems would anyone see if we would feed everything from the normal power circuit, and if it would ever trip off, switch to the red receptacle. That way, if lightning trips the normal circuit, we would instantly feed our equipment from the red receptacle. This sounds so simple, and I'm inclined to build such a setup, but am I missing something obvious that could cause problems? Any better ideas? Laryn K8TVZ
RE: [Repeater-Builder] do you believe this
Nope. Richard http://www.n7tgb.net/ www.n7tgb.net _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 8:10 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] do you believe this hi all, This kinda repeater related, but do you believe this: http://www.koreus. http://www.koreus.com/video/telephone-portable-mais-popcorn.html com/video/telephone-portable-mais-popcorn.html Popping pop corn with a cel phone video. 73, ron, n9ee/r Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Switching a Repeater Between AC Sources
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Why not use a UPS? Well, there's the old problem of battery life. One of these repeaters is the primary Skywarn repeater for the area. The NWS is very interested in weather reports from this area since we are the first to see what has actually come across Lake Michigan. It needs to be operating for sometimes 4-8 hours, depending on the duration of watches and warnings. Plus, our Mastr II is not what you'd call-- efficient in it's use of power, even at reduced output. Your idea is not without some merit, though, maybe for a 3rd level of AC power, operating on exciter power output. h As far as installing something, I think it would be more like plugging it in. I can't disagree with possibly talking to the maintenance people about it though. I'll also run-it-past one of the other members of our committee, who is an EE, and sells and designs emergency generator systems for commercial and industrial customers. Laryn K8TVZ
[Repeater-Builder] Maxtrac/GM300 Part 2
Ok, I have been radio plagued this past week. I have a 40W UHF Maxtrac that has a bad pa. Look in the photos section, you can where I found a burnt spot and a missing piece across the legs of the transistor. The piece fell out and is charred beyond reconigition. That's problem 1. Second, I have a 40W UHF GM300 that has something wrong in the audio amp and cannot stay on frequency worth a crap. I read something on batlabs about the drifting but nothing about the audio amp. So I pulled both radios out of the truck (put an icom in temp, I feel dirty, first time in 12 years not having any moto eq in the vehicle)to see what I can do. My first thought was to see if I could use the PA off the GM300 on the maxtrac. Got most of the way into that and discovered that they have a different control plug. See the side by side pictures in the photo section of the group. The GM300 has one extra wire (white to be exact). I seem to remember that one of the differences between the series is the fact the GM series actually senses temp, where the maxtrac has a timer to prevent overheating. Is that the white wire? If so, can it be defeated so i can use the pa on the maxtrac? Or should I use the final (the actual transistor) out of the GM to revive the maxtrac? The number match, though the last 3 letters on the transistors are different. Any suggestions or advise would be appreciated. Component level troubleshooting is my weak spot. I would like to get one working radio out of two here if I can. Thanks!!! Tom W9SRV
[Repeater-Builder] Re: ISO Slow Computer for R100 repeater programming
A neighbor just GAVE me two of them, just for carting them off. One is a 386 and the other one is a pentium 75Mc, both ideal for old RSS. Check the yard/garage sales in your area. I'll bet you'll come up with more of them than you know what to do with. If you're in a hurry, try Salvation Army or Goodwill stores. I always see some in those types of stores and I go there for old accessories like (large) DIN plug keyboards, etc. They're not always out front, ask for the guy that works on the computers. He'll probably have some in back that he thought would never sell. Tom -- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Tom Parker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You can get them on eBay for under $50.00 if you're patient. We use PII's running around 250 MHz, although I've successfully use a PIII @ 600 MHz (my specific laptop for RSS). John Reid wrote: Where does one fine a CHEAP but reliable old computer for this purpose. I understand that if the clock speed is too fast it can turn the machine into an expensive doorstop. I am not seeking the RSS software, just a slow computer with DOS on it to run the software with, I am located in Southeastern Indiana does anyone know where one can be found? A laptop would be the best and I assume one could be mailed, or a desktop in the Cincinnati or southern Indiana area could be picked up. We do not have a lot of money as we have been rebuilding our repeater system and the membership of the club isnt too enthusiastic about contributing till the repeater is fixed ( Catch 22 ) Thanks in advance for you assistance.
