Re: [biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-05 Thread Grahams

At 05:42 PM 7/4/2002 +, you wrote:
 Thinking back, I recall that for quite awhile we were trying
something we'd read about to help keep the goats warm in Winter. The
idea was to just keep putting down fresh bedding, not removing the old
or the manure. This would compost and the heat would be a great help
for the animals, then in Spring you haul it all out. Sounded great to
us, we always felt sorry for the animals in Winter, most of our
chickens lost their combs and wattles to freezing, the barn cats
usually had shortened ears, etc.
 You'd think that would be the perfect setup, really for good
composting -- plenty of manure, plenty of urine to for both moisture
and more nitrogen, and the hay for bedding. We were quite
disappointed, however, as there was never any noticable composting
going on until late Spring. Otherwise it seemed pretty much frozen
solid. Never saw any steam rising from it, never felt warm at all, and
I spent plenty of time on my knees on it, milking the goats twice a day.


That sounds like Joel Salatin's deep bedding idea in his pastured poultry 
and beef books. We saw his farm, he puts corn in the bedding layers to be 
aerated by rooting pigs in the spring.  ( I imagine goats would just try to 
eat the corn as you put it down.) It ends up being four feet tall by 
spring  The chicken hoop house he had was very warm and dry- they sprayed 
it down to dampen the dust. But it also had a plastic greenhouse- 
like  exterior.
Caroline

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Re: [biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA

2002-07-05 Thread MH

 Kim wrote:
  As I saw the practice in Alberta, Canada, it took a couple of years to
  build up sufficient layers to keep the coop warm.  they also do it in
  Sweden, and start with a 4 ft deep layer of bedding.

 Grahams wrote:
 That sounds like Joel Salatin's deep bedding idea in his pastured poultry
 and beef books. We saw his farm, he puts corn in the bedding layers to be
 aerated by rooting pigs in the spring.  ( I imagine goats would just try to
 eat the corn as you put it down.) It ends up being four feet tall by
 spring  The chicken hoop house he had was very warm and dry- they sprayed
 it down to dampen the dust. But it also had a plastic greenhouse-
 like  exterior.

 MH wrote:
 Is the bedding - hay or straw bales so as to gain footing ? 

``

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Re: [biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA

2002-07-05 Thread MH

MH wrote:
 
  Kim wrote:
   As I saw the practice in Alberta, Canada, it took a couple of years to
   build up sufficient layers to keep the coop warm.  they also do it in
   Sweden, and start with a 4 ft deep layer of bedding.
 
  Grahams wrote:
  That sounds like Joel Salatin's deep bedding idea in his pastured poultry
  and beef books. We saw his farm, he puts corn in the bedding layers to be
  aerated by rooting pigs in the spring.  ( I imagine goats would just try to
  eat the corn as you put it down.) It ends up being four feet tall by
  spring  The chicken hoop house he had was very warm and dry- they sprayed
  it down to dampen the dust. But it also had a plastic greenhouse-
  like  exterior.
 
  MH wrote:
  Is the bedding - hay or straw bales so as to gain footing ?

 MH wrote:
 Hay of straw's R value, IF i remember correctly, is about
 R1 when wet,  R2 when dry,  per inch/2.5 cm. 

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Re: [biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA

2002-07-05 Thread Kim Garth Travis

As I understand the process, the bales are broken open and the straw 
scattered, then tamped, then another layer added, then the process 
repeated until it is 4' deep.  The idea is to keep the ammonia from 
harming the animals as it turns the bottom layers to compost.  You keep 
adding to the top, for a few years anyway, until the whole thing becomes 
too thick, then you remove the composted soil at the bottom and start 
again.  I have a friend that grew up with the system and he said the 
barn always smelled sweet and clean.
Kim

MH wrote:

   Kim wrote:
As I saw the practice in Alberta, Canada, it took a couple of years to
build up sufficient layers to keep the coop warm.  they also do it in
Sweden, and start with a 4 ft deep layer of bedding.
 
 Grahams wrote:
   That sounds like Joel Salatin's deep bedding idea in his pastured poultry
   and beef books. We saw his farm, he puts corn in the bedding layers to be
   aerated by rooting pigs in the spring.  ( I imagine goats would just 
 try to
   eat the corn as you put it down.) It ends up being four feet tall by
   spring  The chicken hoop house he had was very warm and dry- they sprayed
   it down to dampen the dust. But it also had a plastic greenhouse-
   like  exterior.
 
 MH wrote:
 Is the bedding - hay or straw bales so as to gain footing ?
 
 ``
 
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[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-04 Thread Keith Addison

Hi again Harmon

--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Hi Harmon
 
 I should mention too that the guy at MREA, whose been composting
  humanure for decades, said turning is a bad idea, it loses heat, and,
  for humanure you want as much heat as possible. He also said let it go
  a year, make the piles big (pallet size), and just build another pile
  when the first if full, rather than trying to hurry it along.
  Obviously that doesn't work for apartment dwellers. 8-)
 
  Turning doesn't lose heat, you only turn it once it's cooled anyway.
  It may or may not be necessary - read Will Brinton's study that I
  posted previously: Sustainability of Modern Composting:
  Intensification Versus Costs  Quality:
  http://www.woodsend.org/sustain.pdf

A lot of people turn it quite often -- thus the rotating barrel
compost makers you see.

I don't have any time for those.

He was saying that you'll lose the optimum
heat if you do that.

In the rotating barrels perhaps, though nothing that happens in those 
is ideal anyway, but otherwise not necessarily. Still, I don't 
recommend excessive turning. Once is enough, when it cools, and that 
depends on your system, it may not be necessary at all.

   As for time length, he was talking about the whole sequence. Start
the pile with some straw or leaves or hay on a pallet to allow air
under it, add your daily bucket of crap, cover that with straw, it
will take at least six months to fill the heap (pallets for sides,
right?), depending upon the size of your family, maybe even a year.
This is just a pile for dealing with humanure, not your main garden
compost pile, as a lot of people aren't going to want to put it on the
veggie crops.

Perfectly safe, if you do it right. Entire populations have used the 
sanitizing effects of topsoil for this, and grown their crops on it, 
through many generations, without ill-effects, and still do. 
Hot-composting makes sure of that, and improves the effectiveness of 
the product.

So I think your guy's being too squeaky-clean. No need for a separate 
system for humanure, process it along with everything else, kitchen 
scraps, yard wastes, garden wastes, everything. You can still build 
it up bit by bit as it comes, when it gets a bit of bulk it will fire 
up and keep going as you add new stuff. Finally, when it's full, 
leave it till the heat dies down, then turn it (best to turn with 
this kind of pile), add a bit of water if necessary, it'll heat up 
again, when it cools down leave it to cure for a few weeks and then 
you can safely use it anywhere.

  The Gromor guys seemed to be doing frequent turning and watering to
  keep the heat down, but that's not at all necessary, IMO, and
  Brinton's, and it may be counter-productive. Which is not to say it
  won't work anyway.
 
  I don't think humanure needs any more heat than any other kind of
  composting.
  http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/howardAT/ATapp3.html
  An Agricultural Testament - Albert Howard - Appendix C
  The Manufacture of Humus from the Wastes of the Town and the Village
 
  Van Vuren's pioneering work in South Africa confirms this, along with
  Wylie's in England, and Gotaas's work all over the place (not online
  yet). My own work in England also confirmed it. It's just
  thermophilic composting like any other. C:N ratio, moisture content,
  aeration apply the same as with any other materials. It'll go well
  above 65 deg C and stay there awhile, finished in a few weeks, cure
  it a few more, and that's it. That's not hurrying it along, that's
  just how it works. No need to leave it for a year, it won't
  accomplish anything, and unless you store it well it will lose
  quality in that time. If the actual composting process is taking that
  long, then it's not properly thermophilic, and not ideal for
  humanure. Poore's and Moule's experiments with topsoil sanitation
  were very interesting, and indeed many millions (billions?) of people
  have done it that way for a long, long time, but I'd want proper hot
  composting first - not just for sanitation, also the results are
  better. Hot composting is quick.

Yes, if you have a lot, but for individuals or small families it's
just not going to work that way, the pile won't be big enough. I know,
I've tried it in WI, it froze solid in the winter.

I was talking about a small composting box I had on the balcony when 
we were in Tokyo. I had a 14x14x12 wooden box, only 1.36 cubic 
feet, composting kitchen wastes, which stayed above 60 deg C (140F) 
for about 10 days or more, freeze or shine - weather made no 
difference. Heavy snows during some of that time. The box wasn't 
insulated, just plain pallet planks with a lid. I did say that was 
pushing it, we usually recommend not smaller than 8 cub ft, which 
will certainly work, and is fine for a small household.

I've been working with composting systems for householders and 
kitchen wastes and so on for more than 20 years 

[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-04 Thread harmonseaver

--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Perfectly safe, if you do it right. Entire populations have used the 
 sanitizing effects of topsoil for this, and grown their crops on it, 
 through many generations, without ill-effects, and still do. 
 Hot-composting makes sure of that, and improves the effectiveness of 
 the product.

   I think the problem here is it just gets too cold in Winter -- when
you put the bucket of kitchen waste out on the heap, it freezes solid
before it has a chance to start working. Even here in central WI it
does that, in northern MN where we did a lot more composting, it was
frozen solid from about Nov. 1 -- mid-May, just like the ground. I
suppose if you had a large batch of materials mixed up properly with
the correct ratios, it might have a chance, but you can't do that with
the daily wastes. And really, my compost piles here are more worm-bins
than real compost, I don't think they ever heat up much. Not enough
nitrogen for one thing, here in town. And when we had animals up in
MN, we always just put manure straight on the garden. 
   I wish the humanure book had been out then, we really had a problem
in the Winter. Our outhouse would always freeze, as we got a lot of
heavy rain in Fall, and it was heavy clay soil, so the outhouse hole
would fill to ground level with water, then freeze solid. So you'd
have a very small space left which filled rapidly. Several Winters we
ended up having to just use a chamber pot and empty it into a 55gal
drum, and although we added leaves and wood ashes in there to try to
get it working, it just froze solid too. When it doesn't get above
zero F. for weeks at a time, things don't get a chance to start
breaking down and creating any heat. Up there you'd find piles of snow
in the woods well into June, and the lakes never opened up before
mid-May, and the Forestry wouldn't allow road work until June. 
Somewhere I've seen plans for a solar heated outhouse, and solar
heated compost bin, which would probably be the ticket. I tried, as I
said, making compost in a plastic barrel in the greenhouse this last
Winter, but it just didn't get enough air, I think, too much water,
even tho I added dry leaves, and not enough nitrogen. I'll try
something different next year.









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Re: [biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-04 Thread Ken

nomadicism...

- Original Message -
From: harmonseaver [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 8:12 AM
Subject: [biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA  sulfur


 --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Perfectly safe, if you do it right. Entire populations have used the
  sanitizing effects of topsoil for this, and grown their crops on it,
  through many generations, without ill-effects, and still do.
  Hot-composting makes sure of that, and improves the effectiveness of
  the product.

I think the problem here is it just gets too cold in Winter -- when
 you put the bucket of kitchen waste out on the heap, it freezes solid
 before it has a chance to start working. Even here in central WI it
 does that, in northern MN where we did a lot more composting, it was
 frozen solid from about Nov. 1 -- mid-May, just like the ground. I
 suppose if you had a large batch of materials mixed up properly with
 the correct ratios, it might have a chance, but you can't do that with
 the daily wastes. And really, my compost piles here are more worm-bins
 than real compost, I don't think they ever heat up much. Not enough
 nitrogen for one thing, here in town. And when we had animals up in
 MN, we always just put manure straight on the garden.
I wish the humanure book had been out then, we really had a problem
 in the Winter. Our outhouse would always freeze, as we got a lot of
 heavy rain in Fall, and it was heavy clay soil, so the outhouse hole
 would fill to ground level with water, then freeze solid. So you'd
 have a very small space left which filled rapidly. Several Winters we
 ended up having to just use a chamber pot and empty it into a 55gal
 drum, and although we added leaves and wood ashes in there to try to
 get it working, it just froze solid too. When it doesn't get above
 zero F. for weeks at a time, things don't get a chance to start
 breaking down and creating any heat. Up there you'd find piles of snow
 in the woods well into June, and the lakes never opened up before
 mid-May, and the Forestry wouldn't allow road work until June.
 Somewhere I've seen plans for a solar heated outhouse, and solar
 heated compost bin, which would probably be the ticket. I tried, as I
 said, making compost in a plastic barrel in the greenhouse this last
 Winter, but it just didn't get enough air, I think, too much water,
 even tho I added dry leaves, and not enough nitrogen. I'll try
 something different next year.










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[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-04 Thread harmonseaver

Thinking back, I recall that for quite awhile we were trying
something we'd read about to help keep the goats warm in Winter. The
idea was to just keep putting down fresh bedding, not removing the old
or the manure. This would compost and the heat would be a great help
for the animals, then in Spring you haul it all out. Sounded great to
us, we always felt sorry for the animals in Winter, most of our
chickens lost their combs and wattles to freezing, the barn cats
usually had shortened ears, etc. 
You'd think that would be the perfect setup, really for good
composting -- plenty of manure, plenty of urine to for both moisture
and more nitrogen, and the hay for bedding. We were quite
disappointed, however, as there was never any noticable composting
going on until late Spring. Otherwise it seemed pretty much frozen
solid. Never saw any steam rising from it, never felt warm at all, and
I spent plenty of time on my knees on it, milking the goats twice a day. 


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[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-04 Thread Keith Addison

Harmon wrote:

Thinking back, I recall that for quite awhile we were trying
something we'd read about to help keep the goats warm in Winter. The
idea was to just keep putting down fresh bedding, not removing the old
or the manure. This would compost and the heat would be a great help
for the animals, then in Spring you haul it all out. Sounded great to
us, we always felt sorry for the animals in Winter, most of our
chickens lost their combs and wattles to freezing, the barn cats
usually had shortened ears, etc.
You'd think that would be the perfect setup, really for good
composting -- plenty of manure, plenty of urine to for both moisture
and more nitrogen, and the hay for bedding. We were quite
disappointed, however, as there was never any noticable composting
going on until late Spring. Otherwise it seemed pretty much frozen
solid. Never saw any steam rising from it, never felt warm at all, and
I spent plenty of time on my knees on it, milking the goats twice a day.

Trampled flat, no aeration, possibly too much moisture in the urine 
anyway... might manage to get a start in the spring, yes, in spite of 
all that. Or whatever, but hot composting most certainly can and does 
happen in freezing weather. It's more exacting, but it works. I've 
got photographs of people composting in the winter snow in Canada, 
and in Sweden. I've done it myself. Not magic, not a trick, it's a 
simple formula, if you follow it, it works.

In cities, dry brown stuff (carbon) might be a problem, though always 
a solvable one, but I've never been short of nitrogen, not even in an 
inner city flat with no balcony, let alone a garden. In extremis you 
can use what English organic gardeners call HCA - household compost 
activator, aka urine. No smell with hot compost. Not even with 
leafmould: The decaying leaf medium breaks it down almost instantly 
so that there is never any odor, and germ survival in material such 
as this has been shown to be practically nil.
http://journeytoforever.org/garden_con-mexico.html
Organic food production in the slums of Mexico City

By the way, wood might be better than a plastic barrel. Wood 
breathes, while with plastic water condenses on the inside walls so 
the edge of the stuff gets too wet and dies, which can kill the whole 
process, especially if the air supply isn't adequate (from 
underneath, as you said).
http://journeytoforever.org/compost_make.html
Making compost

Regards

Keith


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[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-03 Thread harmonseaver

--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], MH [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Hi Keith,
  
  Hi Hoagy
  
  Thanks for this, nice... Could be quicker, could be hotter too, only
  120-130F. Still, that's okay, they're doing good. Makes you think,
  though, eh? - all that free heat going to waste. Wonder why they
  don't use it?
 
  I don't know. Whadaya suggest.  The Mother Earth News used it to
  warm water in the cooler times of the year if memory serves me.
 

That's not really a good idea though, if you want good compost.
Or, rather, you need to decide which is more important, getting some
heat from it or getting and thorough and relatively quick compost.
Taking heat from the pile can lower temps enough that some of the most
important bacteria can't function. In northern climes especially,
you're more in need of adding heat to the pile some of the year. Or
composting inside, which I tried for the first time last year but it
went anerobic. 


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[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA

2002-07-03 Thread harmonseaver

--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 For those interested, this beautiful book is available online at:
 http://www.weblife.org/humanure/default.html
 
 __ramjee.
 
 Hello Ramjee
 
 Very interesting too how Joseph Jenkins sells hard-copies of his book 
 AND makes a free version available online at the same website. Would 
 that more publishers realized the two are complementary, and that 
 giving it away for nothing doesn't eat into hard-copy sales as 
 alleged. Quite the opposite.
 
 More humanure resources here, by the way:
 http://journeytoforever.org/compost_humanure.html
 
 regards
 
 Keith
 

 There was a quite interesting workshop on composting toilets at
the MREA energy fair. They were selling the Humanure book, essentially
took the 5 gallon bucket and compost with straw approach, building a
specific compost pile for the humanure out with a pallet frame and
base, plus hardware cloth. 


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[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-03 Thread harmonseaver

   I should mention too that the guy at MREA, whose been composting
humanure for decades, said turning is a bad idea, it loses heat, and,
for humanure you want as much heat as possible. He also said let it go
a year, make the piles big (pallet size), and just build another pile
when the first if full, rather than trying to hurry it along. 
Obviously that doesn't work for apartment dwellers. 8-)


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[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-03 Thread Keith Addison

Hi Harmon

   I should mention too that the guy at MREA, whose been composting
humanure for decades, said turning is a bad idea, it loses heat, and,
for humanure you want as much heat as possible. He also said let it go
a year, make the piles big (pallet size), and just build another pile
when the first if full, rather than trying to hurry it along.
Obviously that doesn't work for apartment dwellers. 8-)

Turning doesn't lose heat, you only turn it once it's cooled anyway. 
It may or may not be necessary - read Will Brinton's study that I 
posted previously: Sustainability of Modern Composting: 
Intensification Versus Costs  Quality:
http://www.woodsend.org/sustain.pdf

The Gromor guys seemed to be doing frequent turning and watering to 
keep the heat down, but that's not at all necessary, IMO, and 
Brinton's, and it may be counter-productive. Which is not to say it 
won't work anyway.

I don't think humanure needs any more heat than any other kind of 
composting. 
http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/howardAT/ATapp3.html
An Agricultural Testament - Albert Howard - Appendix C
The Manufacture of Humus from the Wastes of the Town and the Village

Van Vuren's pioneering work in South Africa confirms this, along with 
Wylie's in England, and Gotaas's work all over the place (not online 
yet). My own work in England also confirmed it. It's just 
thermophilic composting like any other. C:N ratio, moisture content, 
aeration apply the same as with any other materials. It'll go well 
above 65 deg C and stay there awhile, finished in a few weeks, cure 
it a few more, and that's it. That's not hurrying it along, that's 
just how it works. No need to leave it for a year, it won't 
accomplish anything, and unless you store it well it will lose 
quality in that time. If the actual composting process is taking that 
long, then it's not properly thermophilic, and not ideal for 
humanure. Poore's and Moule's experiments with topsoil sanitation 
were very interesting, and indeed many millions (billions?) of people 
have done it that way for a long, long time, but I'd want proper hot 
composting first - not just for sanitation, also the results are 
better. Hot composting is quick.

Regards

Keith


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[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-03 Thread Keith Addison

Harmon wrote:

--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], MH [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   Hi Keith,
  
   Hi Hoagy
  
   Thanks for this, nice... Could be quicker, could be hotter too, only
   120-130F. Still, that's okay, they're doing good. Makes you think,
   though, eh? - all that free heat going to waste. Wonder why they
   don't use it?
 
   I don't know. Whadaya suggest.  The Mother Earth News used it to
   warm water in the cooler times of the year if memory serves me.
 

That's not really a good idea though, if you want good compost.
Or, rather, you need to decide which is more important, getting some
heat from it or getting and thorough and relatively quick compost.
Taking heat from the pile can lower temps enough that some of the most
important bacteria can't function. In northern climes especially,
you're more in need of adding heat to the pile some of the year. Or
composting inside, which I tried for the first time last year but it
went anerobic.

I don't think you should ever need to add heat to a compost pile if 
it's properly assembled. Minus 15 deg C hasn't slowed my compost 
down. The process is too fierce for a simple copper coil to make any 
noticeable difference.

Anaerobic = too much moisture/not enough air. Go easy on the water, 
or don't use any - if it runs out of water you can always break it 
up, sprinkle more water on it, mix thoroughly and rebuild, but if 
there's too much water it'll turn into an intractable sludge that's 
hard to rescue. Adding lots of dry stuff might revive it, if you 
manage to keep the C:N ratio right (dry stuff usually lacks N). Or it 
might not.

It might seem too dry when you build it at first, but much of the 
moisture's inside the plant cells and only gets released once the 
process starts and the cells break down.

All that's if you're building it in one go. If you're doing it bit by 
bit as the wastes become available, you have to balance it bit by bit 
too. Kitchen wastes, plant wastes generally, are much too moist, you 
have to add dry stuff at the same time.

Using worms can be a lot easier for wastes that come in dribs and 
drabs. No free heat though.

Keith


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[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-03 Thread harmonseaver

--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi Harmon
 
I should mention too that the guy at MREA, whose been composting
 humanure for decades, said turning is a bad idea, it loses heat, and,
 for humanure you want as much heat as possible. He also said let it go
 a year, make the piles big (pallet size), and just build another pile
 when the first if full, rather than trying to hurry it along.
 Obviously that doesn't work for apartment dwellers. 8-)
 
 Turning doesn't lose heat, you only turn it once it's cooled anyway. 
 It may or may not be necessary - read Will Brinton's study that I 
 posted previously: Sustainability of Modern Composting: 
 Intensification Versus Costs  Quality:
 http://www.woodsend.org/sustain.pdf

A lot of people turn it quite often -- thus the rotating barrel
compost makers you see. He was saying that you'll lose the optimum
heat if you do that. 
   As for time length, he was talking about the whole sequence. Start
the pile with some straw or leaves or hay on a pallet to allow air
under it, add your daily bucket of crap, cover that with straw, it
will take at least six months to fill the heap (pallets for sides,
right?), depending upon the size of your family, maybe even a year.
This is just a pile for dealing with humanure, not your main garden
compost pile, as a lot of people aren't going to want to put it on the
veggie crops. 


 
 The Gromor guys seemed to be doing frequent turning and watering to 
 keep the heat down, but that's not at all necessary, IMO, and 
 Brinton's, and it may be counter-productive. Which is not to say it 
 won't work anyway.
 
 I don't think humanure needs any more heat than any other kind of 
 composting. 
 http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/howardAT/ATapp3.html
 An Agricultural Testament - Albert Howard - Appendix C
 The Manufacture of Humus from the Wastes of the Town and the Village
 
 Van Vuren's pioneering work in South Africa confirms this, along with 
 Wylie's in England, and Gotaas's work all over the place (not online 
 yet). My own work in England also confirmed it. It's just 
 thermophilic composting like any other. C:N ratio, moisture content, 
 aeration apply the same as with any other materials. It'll go well 
 above 65 deg C and stay there awhile, finished in a few weeks, cure 
 it a few more, and that's it. That's not hurrying it along, that's 
 just how it works. No need to leave it for a year, it won't 
 accomplish anything, and unless you store it well it will lose 
 quality in that time. If the actual composting process is taking that 
 long, then it's not properly thermophilic, and not ideal for 
 humanure. Poore's and Moule's experiments with topsoil sanitation 
 were very interesting, and indeed many millions (billions?) of people 
 have done it that way for a long, long time, but I'd want proper hot 
 composting first - not just for sanitation, also the results are 
 better. Hot composting is quick.

Yes, if you have a lot, but for individuals or small families it's
just not going to work that way, the pile won't be big enough. I know,
I've tried it in WI, it froze solid in the winter. 
I think his point was pretty good advice -- you aren't going to
get enough compost to really matter from your own feces, and it isn't
really worth the risk of continuing parasite, viral, or bacterial
infection to use the little bit you get on veggies, especially root
crops. It's primarily a good way to stop wasting all the water you
flush everytime you go. And it's great for the flowers. 
On a large scale, that's different, although with municipal sludge
you've got serious problems with heavy metals, so I sure wouldn't put
that on my land. Best use for that is gasification. 





 Regards
 
 Keith


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