Hi everyone,
I am interested in purchasing a KAT3 internal ATU for my K3 and I was
wondering if anyone had one available as a result of an upgrade that they
are interested in selling.
Of course, I will pay the postage costs and if payment via Paypal is ok I
will cover any Paypal fee's too.
Many
Gary,
I also had a look around for control software - but could find nothing
I really liked (There re some great programs out there) - but either too
complex or not focused on what I want. So….
Write your own ! I know it sounds daunting - but the K3 has an
excellent programming
I have an HP desktop from Staples that started out with Windows 7 Home
Office and an HP laptop ... also from Staples ... with Windows 7. Both
have Norton anti-virus protection that updates nightly, DX4WIN logging
programs, and N1MM+ contest loggers. They are both set up with the
utilities to do
Am getting ready to order K3S with the remote rig duo from Elecraft.
Any one out there that is rotating their antennas remotely?
If so, very interested in what you are using to do the job.
Thanks! Don W0EAR
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
Yes, that works fine, and it's how mine are mounted. I use velcro tabs
to keep the P3 from sliding back -- I use the tilt-bale on the bottom of
the K3 to place it at a good viewing and operating angle.
73, Jim K9YC
On Fri,4/1/2016 5:46 PM, Mike Dodd wrote:
it allowed to place the P3 on top of
What are the rules or what is the proper polite protocol for selling on the
Elecraft list. I see Elecraft equipment all the time listed for sale and
sometimes I see other stuff not made by Elecraft. Not sure whether my item is
right for the list (a Tek scope).
Thanks,
73, phil, K7PEH
Or, you could go over to that "auction" place and buy a real power supply,
like Kepco or Lambda or ... (one marked ..."Made in U.S.A."...).
If you want the "Cadillac of the Industry, find a Krohn-Hite.
73, Dick, W1KSZ
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft
The other day, I was testing my new KX-1 with one of these power supplies:
http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-HY3005D-Variable-Linear-Supply/dp/B000E14F56
It caused some awful garbage to come out of the KX-1, which was caused
by the power supply oscillating and generating a bunch of 120 Hz
ripple.
I'm eagerly awaiting delivery of a K3s/100 kit on Tuesday. I didn't
order the P3 panadapter, but plan to in a few months.
Is it allowed to place the P3 on top of the K3? I see ventilation slots
in the top panel, but I think the P3 has feet that elevate it. Is there
enough clearance for
Elecraft K3/100; Late #7504, which includes all factory upgrades, in Mint
condition.
This is an excellent K3, out of the box.
K3SYN3AUPG newest Synthesizer option installed. This significantly improves
receiver performance.
KXV3A Receive ANT IF out and XVRTR Interface board, installed.
Actually Willis, there is no additional tuner. Just the motor in the antenna
and a single base matching coil. I have put in a 15 turn airdux coil and use
taps to set the best for 80 and up. Works for me.
Pictures on on file at several elecraft/antenna/mobile/HI-Q/ etc blogs.
Anything in
Don,
I have my sub receiver connected to the AUX input, and it still works just fine
with diversity receive. The way you do is connect your receive only antenna to
the RX in BNC on the back of the K3, then run a short piece of coax with male
BNC connectors on each in between the RX OUT and
The filter is sold.
Jim
N1NK
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
I'm starting to explore other options with
different software and my K3s. My main
interest is in being able to send CW, RTTY
and it would be a nice plus to send from
the voice memories when calling in a
pileup and not have to keep hitting the
function button every time I put out my
call.
Some models of UHF under-dash Motorola mobiles have a short (+/- 6") TMP
M/M jumper cable connecting two boards. A female circuit board connector
can be salvaged from the the radio for use as a end connector on the short
cable, making a M/F extension for the input to the 2nd receiver. I have
the
Interested, I'll mail direct.
On Fri, Apr 1, 2016 at 11:34 AM, Jim Spears wrote:
> I am doing a bit of reconfiguration on one of my K3 units. I do not need
> the 6 KHz AM/ESSB filter and would like to find a new home for it.
>
>
>
> Current Elecraft list price is $149.95. I am
Thanks for very quick responses to my question - I'm overwhelmed! I'll remove
the top cover and start right away!
I have two antennas, and no special receive antenna, and the two antennas
are connected to ANT1 and ANT2 all the time. If I reroute the KRX3 AUX input
to the KAT3, I will be able to
Sverre,
That task can be accomplished by removing only the top cover.
The angled TMP connector on the subRX is a little difficult to reach
without tilting the back of the subRX up a bit, but it can be done.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/1/2016 1:56 PM, Sverre Holm (LA3ZA) wrote:
When I built my K3
And without in any way disparaging the K3, I’d add the same for the K2.
Just got mine reliably on the air (with Don Wilhelm’s help), and within
the first hour added ET7L and SO1WS to the log on 40, among less exotic
others, using just an inverted Vee and under conditions of weak signals
and
I put both cables in at build time. Unused one is routed into the shielded area
and secured to the shield.
Easy to re-configure. Take off top and change cables. A pair of surgical clamps
may be useful.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Apr 1, 2016, at 1:56 PM, Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)
Sverre,
just curious, why would you like to route the 2nd RX through the KAT3?
What is it that you trying to accomplish?
Arie PA3A
Op 1-4-2016 om 19:56 schreef Sverre Holm (LA3ZA):
When I built my K3 some years ago I routed the second receiver's AUX antenna
input to the rear panel BNC
When I built my K3 some years ago I routed the second receiver's AUX antenna
input to the rear panel BNC connector. But now I have changed my mind and
want to route it through the KAT3 instead, in order to try diversity
reception.
How complex is this to accomplish? I know I need to plug in
We're hitting the OT posting limit on this one. Let's wind it down in the next
2-3 posts.
73,
Eric
Moderator from time to time..
/elecraft.com/
On 4/1/2016 10:23 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
My only attempt at HF in a mobile was on my old 78 Scout Traveler (diesel).
Before heading to AK I had a
Hi folks - We closed this OT thread yesterday due to the excessively high number
of postings.
73,
Eric
Moodulator
/elecraft.com/
On 4/1/2016 9:17 AM, Jerry T. Dowell wrote:
My Conditional Class code exam in 1954, administered by an Extra Class ham,
was mixed code groups (5-letter as I
I am doing a bit of reconfiguration on one of my K3 units. I do not need
the 6 KHz AM/ESSB filter and would like to find a new home for it.
Current Elecraft list price is $149.95. I am asking $95 shipped USPS
Priority mail stateside. I will ship outside USA for additional actual
cost.
My only attempt at HF in a mobile was on my old 78 Scout Traveler
(diesel). Before heading to AK I had a welder install a big front
bumper with space for a winch and brush guard for front grill and
head lights. Alas, I never bought the winch so had a tool box
installed in its place. OK I
Or as they say in real estate, "Location, location, location"
On 4/1/2016 7:43 AM, Peter Chamalian wrote:
Well the K3 is just amazing me once again. Without the benefit of anything
special for antennas I have managed to hear and work VK0EK 160-10. As the
saying goes, you can't work 'em if you
I have found Ham sticks work fine on 20 and up but I won't talk about what
happen to a 75 meter ham stick we were tinkering with and forgot to turn off
the mobile amp!
On Fri, 4/1/16, Jim Brown wrote:
Subject: Re:
Hi Don,
No problem, in fact going through those calcs would probably do me some
good. Part of why I'm building K2 #2 is to learn something along the way.
Especially when I have a problem or question I stop building and start
reading, and am having a great time lol. All kinds of things I didn't pay
My Conditional Class code exam in 1954, administered by an Extra Class ham,
was mixed code groups (5-letter as I recall) sent from an old Signal Corps
manual at 15 wpm or so with a bug. I imagine that a few others who lived in
the boondocks had similar experiences. The rules, of course, called for
LS,
You can do a resistance check from the schematic if you are willing to
do all the series/parallel resisance calculations.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/1/2016 11:39 AM, lstavenhagen wrote:
Hi Don,
Ok, thanks for the info. Would a resistance check according to the schematic
be reliable at this
I used HamSticks.
73, Jim
On Fri,4/1/2016 4:57 AM, tnny...@yahoo.com wrote:
>> When I still ran HF mobile, I found that a rig with an
auto-tuner was a big help in extending the useful bandwidth of an
antenna.<<
Jim, what type of antenna did you employed the auto-tuner?
Was it a screwdriver
I use the HiQ 4-80 with a 2' mast extender mounted on the back bumper of a
F150. At the base of the antenna I have a hb box of six relays to switch in the
appropriate capacitors to match the feed point impeadance and I use the
Ameritron SDC-102 memory controller that does a good job of going to
Hi Don,
Ok, thanks for the info. Would a resistance check according to the schematic
be reliable at this point (just finished the varactor diode installation
steps)? I dont know if I want to try to power anything up in the half built
state lol.
I'm pretty confident in the daughter board since I
LS,
The most common problem with the thermistor board is a solder bridge on
that board.
One quick check is the voltage at U6 pin 5 which should be 1/2 of the 8
volt supply.
Another check is to see if the voltage at U6 pin 1 is twice the voltage
at pin 3. Those voltages will change as the VFO
Hi All,
I think all the FCC code exams were plain text, not code groups--at least to
my memory going back to the 50's. The reason may be obvious, in that the
examiner had to check them "on the spot", and code groups would have been
too difficult to check. I took the Extra Class exam in
Yep, I was going to sell my K3 to help pay for my K3S, but after putting the
new synthesizer upgrade in it, it seems to refuse to go up for sale hi hi.
Now I need to come up with a Ponzi scheme of some kind so I can keep both
rigs.
The only thing better than a K3 + new synth that you can buy
PS: I've looked at the schematic but I've gone as far as putting the varactor
diodes in, so I'm unsure if there's enough circuitry installed to mess up
just going by the schematic for it...
Help Me, Obiwan!
Tnx es 73,
LS
W5QD
--
View this message in context:
Well the K3 is just amazing me once again. Without the benefit of anything
special for antennas I have managed to hear and work VK0EK 160-10. As the
saying goes, you can't work 'em if you can't hear them. The toughest was
160 (a hold your breath and focus) but there it was in the log! Ditto
Hi all,
Is there a procedure where I could check the K2 thermistor board for proper
operation once soldered in? I just passed that step in my second K2 build,
and I'm uncertain about one of the pins - it rocked out of place while I was
soldering it to the RF board, but of course it's now soldered
All,
The coax length doesn't matter because of the following reasons. Assuming the
tuner is at the rig, there is a run of any coax to the antenna feed point, and
you have a fairly high Q low band antenna that can't QSY much.
With short HF mobile antennas that are high Q the reactance at the
>> When I still ran HF mobile, I found that a rig with an
auto-tuner was a big help in extending the useful bandwidth of an
antenna.<
42 matches
Mail list logo