I use Wayne's techniques, and usually in that order. Surrender is not an
option.
Then I remember a trick I've known since my first encounter with PCs and
solder wick. Reflow the joint with fresh solder. Wick that away. It
usually leaves a nice clean hole. Sometimes, I reflow the joint more
Elecraft sells the SS-30DV for $120. Powers the KX3 and amp.
I power everything in my station with the SPS-30DM which is a voltage
variable version with meter. Reliable, RFI quiet and fan quiet. Same
case as the SS-30DV. Available from Powerwerx.com, one of my favorite
vendors. A little more
,
I don't have a Nifty Guide, but as an alternative, you may want to
download the K2 Quick Reference from my website www.w3fpr.com.
Look near the bottom of the opening page.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/15/2016 1:52 PM, EricJ wrote:
The K2 Nifty Guide is out of print.
Anyone have one left over from
The K2 Nifty Guide is out of print.
Anyone have one left over from upgrading to K3?
Please contact off the list.
Eric
KE6US
eric_c...@hotmail.com
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help:
I don't know the details in this particular case. I googled KX3 stolen
and got two hits. One was stolen at Dayton...no doubt a target rich
collection of rigs to steal what with half the cars bristling with
antennas. The other was stolen in 2014, locked in the trunk of a car at
night with a
Us old guys had tough tube transmitters with widely tunable output
networks that made the rigs more tolerant to our general abuse of known
electronic theory.
Eric
KE6US
On 26 Mar 2015, at 5:25 am, Bob Gibson via Elecraft
elecraft@mailman.qth.net wrote:
HOW ABOUT A LAMP WITH 100 WATT
Nobody has explained it any better than you have in this short
paragraph, Scott. This is a national resource and the American people
should be the beneficiaries. The ones everyone seems to be forgetting
are the customers--the American people.
Everything's always about corporations anymore,
Could be, but not too many scammers would invite you to come operate the
equipment in his home.
Eric
KE6US
On 12/12/2014 9:23 AM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
Maybe it's just me, but after the first couple of sentences all I can
hear in my head is SCAM! Run!!!
On 12/12/2014 8:38 AM, Jim
You also will want to edit some contact names to something shorter.
There are options to use Morse only on selected contacts which is a lot
more convenient for me.
I don't worry about stares in the checkout. I just say, Sorry, I'm on
call, and move to the head of the line.
Eric
KE2US
On
I'm sold on single-lever paddles. I have a handbuilt one from G3YUH, and
I have a Kent single-lever that is outstanding. Very smooth to operate
and nicely finished. It's my favorite key now. I never could get
interested in iambic keying which is more of an affectation than
anything useful. The
I noticed the same thing that Phil did. Three photos show up. Not one of
them shows the X-Lock in or out of bubble wrap. The hookup photos were
less interesting to me at this point than how he was able to stuff it in
the K1.
Eric
KE6US
On 10/17/2014 8:28 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Phil,
Scroll
Sold pending funds transfer.
Thanks to Elecraft for the bandwidth and thanks to K7MW for the quality
build.
Eric
KE6US
On 9/3/2014 8:17 PM, EricJ wrote:
KX1 with KXAT1 auto antenna tuner, KXB30 and KXPD1 paddle. Covers 40,
30 and 20 meters. Solid 3+ watts on 12 volts. Clean, no scratches
KX1 with KXAT1 auto antenna tuner, KXB30 and KXPD1 paddle. Covers 40, 30
and 20 meters. Solid 3+ watts on 12 volts. Clean, no scratches or dings
non-smoking environment. Originally, well-built by K7MW who frequents
this list. Serial number 539.
Includes original bound manual.
Photos here:
Buddistick with vertical antenna clamp. Clean, undamaged with travel
bag. Retail about $165 plus shipping for basic package plus clamp.
http://www.buddipole.com/buddistick.html
Includes Buddipole in the Field by B. Scott Anderson, NE1RD, $15
retail, 154 pages, paperback book.
Photos here:
Buddistick is sold.
Thanks for the reflector bandwidth.
Eric
KE6US
On 9/3/2014 8:25 PM, EricJ wrote:
Buddistick with vertical antenna clamp. Clean, undamaged with travel
bag. Retail about $165 plus shipping for basic package plus clamp.
http://www.buddipole.com/buddistick.html
Includes
When I used to travel a lot, I used to laugh at the beautiful shiny
black cases people carried with Nikon in gold letters plastered on the
side. They might as well just say Steal me first. I always went for a
crappy looking canvas camera bag and built what I needed inside to
protect the gear.
The program is SimSmith (simple typo) and I agree with John that it is a
very useful one. I have used several other implementations of Smith
Charts and this one is by far my favorite. Fairly frequent updates, and
a yahoo group for support.
Eric
KE6US
On 7/31/2014 1:05 PM, John Oppenheimer
Bad news...for those who don't have one.
The K1-4 was my introduction to both Elecraft and purpose-built QRP
rigs. It's easily in the top 3 favorite radios I have owned in half a
century. I think Gil called it a cute mini K2 in the link below, and
that's a pretty good description. It's big
All electronic keyers should come with a Lake Erie Swing mode. Makes
more sense than having two iambic modes.
Eric
KE6US
On 7/4/2014 10:55 AM, James Beitchman wrote:
Bug users,
A few months ago Jim, W0EB, posted a notice offering a device called a dot
stabilizer to bug users. I have
Here's a couple of recordings of W0BMU and the Lake Erie swing that Buzz
mentions. Listen online or d/l them. The bands used to be full of
interesting and quirky fists and styles like this. Not unlike speech
patterns some were quite beautiful, some were in-your-face obnoxious.
That was before
in a pile-up or make for better copy in the QRM . . .
Anyone know?
Ted, KN1CBR
--
Message: 29
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2014 12:39:43 -0700
From: EricJ eric_c...@hotmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Jim's Dot Stabilizer
Message-ID: blu436
Between self-moderation and Eric's very reasonable tolerance of OT
posts, I don't think further measures are necessary. Breaking it up into
subgroups just means the experts we all rely on most will have less
reason to hang around answering questions. That would be a very negative
consequence.
In case others are wondering, is it model specific or can it be moved to
other bugs?
Eric
KE6US
On 6/3/2014 5:48 PM, Jim's Desktop wrote:
I've been using one on each of my 4 bugs and it makes them sound
really good on the air (within the limitations of my fist) and it
makes the bugs much
Because you dance with your feet. Try QLF and you fill find your CW and
dancing are about the same level. They are for me.
Eric
KE6US
On 5/30/2014 1:59 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
How come I have no problem with CW but I can't dance?
Tony KT0NY
Finally, some sanity in this thread! I had colorFORTH on a TRS-80 Color
Computer (chiclets keyboard). Wrote a RTTY send/receive program during
evenings in the hotel over a 3 day weekend exhibiting at a motorcycle
show in Cincinnati as a way to learn FORTH. When I hear the Linux
fanboys
I didn't use the G4FON software to learn the code (not much was
available 55 years ago...except maybe the Instructograph), but I have
used it for about 10 years to stay sharp. It will read any text file,
either one you invent or one you find somewhere. I convert chapters from
EPUB novels I
The last year of my enlistment was spent as one of three operators
selected to reopen K2USA in 1964. General Duffy Brown, a ham, was
embarrassed to discover that the station was boarded up and couldn't
participate in traffic concerning the AK earthquake. I left my slot as a
crypto instructor
It works fine for portable operation. I usually take my K1 camping a
couple times a month during the warmer seasons, but occasionally take
the K2/10. The front panel of the K2 is very close to the same size as
the KX3. In fact, if you remove the K2 front panel assembly, THAT is
almost exactly
Absolutely, some things carry over from the 20th Century because they
work. There are 21st Century applications that make email lists work
even better. Like many here, I filter with Thunderbird. It would work
better if everyone used a [product tag] in the Subject line, but it
isn't onerous as
I saw Them when I was 12 at a matinee at Camp Stoneman where my dad
was stationed during the Korean War. Scariest movie I had ever seen. I
rented it from Netflix a couple years ago just for fun. When I first
heard the sounds of the ants, the hair on the back of my neck stood on
end. I almost
I completely agree, Mike. A DDS would add nothing to the K1, but would
destroy one of its better features--smooth continuous tuning. Step
tuning is annoying and fatiguing. I never got used to it on the KX1.
Eric
KE6US
On 4/25/2014 1:45 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:
Ah, if only we could get a K1
I ordered one last year and had not problems, but a number of posts like
yours have cropped up in the last several months.
It is a very nicely engineered modification. It basically guts the rotor
controller using the front panel controls in different ways or in at
least one case for an
If you park on your favorite frequency and yak, it may not be something
you value. But if you are a ham that TUNES the bands, the 73CNC knob
transforms the feel of the K2. It seems a bit much for a knob, but to
bring back some of the feel of the classic receivers I've used in the
past, it was
I have one in my early S/N K2 and it is a very clean installation that
fits nicely in a fully loaded version. I use it with an LP-Pan. Both the
LP-PAN and Clifton Lab folks are knowledgeable about the K2 and a
pleasure to deal with.
Eric
KE6US
On 4/12/2014 4:23 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Take a
Ha ha. I've been collecting ideas and notes to make a work-alike retro
K1. It's a fun on-paper exercise, and an excuse to really dig into the
K1 to understand how it works. But I don't think I'd want to devote the
time required to accomplish it.
On the other hand, leave the K2 alone! hi. Like
Obviously a lot of thought has been put into evolving the Elecraft
lineup. I have everything up to but not including the K3. The K1 is my
favorite for some reason. I like how it sounds on CW. I like the
relative simplicity and size. The KX1 is a very different radio and very
specialized for a
On forums and reflectors!
Eric
KE6US
On 3/20/2014 3:56 PM, F5vjc wrote:
I am not knocking the Digimodes I hope but would like to know, are there
any real keyboard to keyboard interesting QSO/s to be found, and if so
where?
73, F5VJC
Not so fast, Phil. It IS a fun project. I've done two: my own and one
for a fellow ham. (That's mine in the photo on the K1 Mods order page)
It isn't exceptionally difficult if you follow the Elecraft directions
explicitly for the retrofit. If you can build a K1, you can retrofit the
I've been wondering why there isn't an alternative to cup anemometers
for this application since the technology isn't that new.
google rc airplane pitot tube and you will come up with a large
practical knowledge base for building them. I build them in about 2006
with a Freescale MPX5100
I also have had no real issues other than minor cockpit errors learning
a few different things. Moving from Win 7 to Win 8 was almost
transparent. You can run virtually any Win 7 program without issue, and
run it from the Win 7 desktop without even dealing with anything Win 8.
A few programs
If you aren't already familiar with it, get some solder wick. Radio
Shack and anywhere they sell solder normally has it. It's just finely
braided copper wire. Lay the end on a solder joint, heat it with the
iron and it wicks up excess solder so you can easily remove components
when you add the
The calibration is a pseudo-standard or convention, i.e 50 uV at the
antenna input equals S9 on the meter. So it doesn't make much sense to
have the preamp on for the measurement. If you did, the only way to
compare two rigs would be to specify whether the preamp is on or off on
each rig. Not
Surprised me too. It ALWAYS produces results.
Eric
KE6US
On 2/12/2014 3:46 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
Bill,
You don't trust the traditional Smoke Test? :-)
73, Phil w7ox
On 2/12/14, 2:45 PM, Bill Turner wrote:
I see a number of people are trying to calculate whether any damage
would be done
I think I get Gary, too, on some points.
I almost gave up ham radio 8-10 years ago. The operating had become
routine and boring. DXing was indistinguishable from post card or stamp
collecting to me.
What changed it was a club member bringing a bunch of QRP rigs he had
built to a meeting.
Find out:
https://www.kickstarter.com/
Eric
KE6US
On 2/6/2014 1:28 PM, Ray Sills wrote:
But, if some adventurous person wanted design one, and put it on the
market. certainly some people would be interested.
*Who's going to put up the capital for such a venture? *
73 de Ray
K2ULR
There are lots of hangouts, but they are kind of limiting. They are
handy when you are rockbound, or when you're collecting paper for QRP
club awards. But why restrict yourself to a few channels when you have a
rig that isn't restricted. That's where QRP signals belong--from one end
of the
Sorry to point out the obvious, but that could be said of any power
level. And add band conditions at any particular point in time. There's
nothing magic about 5 watts out and there's no more magic at 100 watts
out. 100 watts will get out some times when 5 watts won't, but 5 watts
(or far
And that's an important point, Don. A poor antenna hooked to a 5 watt
rig is no different than a poor antenna hooked to a 100 watt rig...in
receive. Power sometimes gives you an advantage on transmit under
marginal conditions, but it does nothing on receive as you mention. Then
you run into
There is a lot of Just use any old soundcard, even a dongle type of
advice about digital modes. I went from nearly 100% CW to nearly 100%
JT65 and JT9 on HF so I've tried a few things. I could decode down to
about -18 or so with the built in sound card. I got an EMU 0204 for use
with an LP-PAN
I also use the Signalink USB with a K2 with a little different layout.
I used Don's audio board, but I used a tiny 10K trimpot in place of the
voltage divider for output. I mounted it on the left side panel with
foam tape. You can easily remove the side panel for access to the amp.
The
And it helps the rest of us who are following a problem to see that the
solution fit.
Eric
KE6US
On 1/11/2014 10:16 AM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
It's never wrong to thank people publicly.
On 1/11/2014 9:06 AM, Larry Wassmann wrote:
Thanks all who have responded I think I understand the
I thought something was wrong with my ears (OK, there is, but not this).
I've tried several external speakers as well. The latest was the West
Mountain ones which I made the mistake of opening and lost all
confidence in what I saw.
The K2 speaker has been better for CW than anything else I
It's also detailed in his book (W7ZOI, KK7B, W7PUA), Experimental
Methods in RF Design, and ARRL publication and the only electronic book
I've ever seen rate an active Yahoo group all on its own.
My 10 year old copy gets so much use, it looks like it served two tours
in the Middle East.
I run JT9 and JT65 very frequently with the K2/100. Most of the time, I
run 5 watts. If needed I'll crank it up to 20 watts, so I can assure you
it's quite safe at that power level.
When the linear kicks in the K2 drive power to the linearis
proportional, so if you are within the duty cycle
Interesting list, but I just bought a DX-40 on ebay and it's not on it.
Did I screw up?
Eric
KE6US
On 12/25/2013 1:06 PM, Douglas Zwiebel wrote:
Hope this prints OK.
While doodling around today, I thought to take a look at the eHam.net
product reviews.
Somewhat difficult to make a lot of
Either way, it would be an easy matter to neatly cut a strip of thin
steel to match the Palm Paddle and stick it in place where ever you want
with double sticky cellophane tape. When you no longer want it, soak it
off with Goo Gone or similar.
Hobby stores carry KS Metal products including
I didn't say anything against Richard, nor did I intend to. It is up to
his potential customers to decide the personal utility they will gain
from them.
I only offered an obvious (turns out it was so obvious Palm had already
done it) solution to mounting a magnetic paddle. Frankly, replacing
I don't usually do that because the wire exiting the APP barrel is still
just a small strand that flexes easily and can eventually break. It
gives you a lot more surface area for crimping, but needs strain relief
to be secure in the long run.
What I do is strip the wire the same length as
Why? Simple. While you were doing all that, a guy with a proper crimper
would have completed the job, and be sipping his coffee waiting for you
to complete yours. If you had been in the field at the time, he might
have finished his coffee, and decided to loan you his crimper.
RC aircraft guys
/I got my XG3 yesterday and it works fine. It'll be a great addition to
the workbench.
But there's one anomaly. The Band change buttons work backwards from
every other piece of Elecraft gear. On my K1 and K2 Band+ takes me to
the next higher frequency band. On the XG3, Band+ takes me to the
:
Eric,
I know, that was a bit 'confusing' to me at first, but if you think of
it as up or down the row of band LEDs, it is easier to deal with.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/10/2013 5:22 PM, EricJ wrote:
/I got my XG3 yesterday and it works fine. It'll be a great addition
to the workbench
I agree with this advice about using the crimper and would add one other
important thing. The crimp tension is adjustable on the approved
crimper. Too light and obviously you don't get proper welding between
connector and wire. But too tight and you distort the crimp. Both can
prevent fully
Horsepower works for me. When you equate power to horses, you get a much
more graphic understanding of waste than you do with watts. And anyone
who can't make contacts with 6.7 millihorsepower is doing something wrong.
Eric
KE6US
On 12/3/2013 7:49 AM, WILLIAM DAVIS wrote:
I always express
First, no, I don't have the boards.
I wanted them, though. I considered building the interface without
having them. I considered a lot of options, and in the end I just bought
a SignaLink USB (you need a decent soundcard anyway), built and
installed W3FPR's little LM386 audio amp on perf
Seems to me hobbyist computing is just following what ham radio went
through with appliance operators. Bit by bit, electronic technology
and packaging technology made the average ham rig come with a label
non-serviceable parts inside. Maybe what the hobbyist PC world needs
to discover is QRP.
That's the secret. It allows you to quickly heat the connector, melt the
solder and get out, instead of slow cooking everything. My B-A iron is
also 200 watts. It's so old it still has a woven cloth cover on the AC
cord. I also have a cordless soldering iron I got from my dad who used
to be a
+1 for AVG and Malwarebytes together. I run both. That virus that
kidnaps your computer until you pay $300 ransom got mine before I had
Malwarebytes. It was the only anti-virus software that could detect it
and fix it in Safe Mode.
I pay for both on my primary computer mostly to ensure
Very happy with my Powerwerx SPS-30DM. Small, quiet fan when it comes
on, RF-clean. I power a K2/100 and K2/10, plus a few station accessories.
Also recommend Powerwerx for Anderson Power Poles and accessories. Very
nice company to do business with.
Eric
KE6US
On 11/8/2013 10:45 AM, Mike
K1, SN 1976 with 1.09E firmware, 4 band module and ATU. It's been
working flawlessly since I built it around 2005 or so.
It works fine on receive and transmit on all bands except that when
changing bands it displays 7, 10, 10, 21. Though indicating 10 mhz, it
works fine on 14 mhz, but the
Thanks Mike and Dale. That was the problem. Maybe I screwed it up in the
dark at the campsite. I use this radio a lot at home and in the field,
but nothing ever goes wrong with it so I have little opportunity to
learn much about how it works inside. No doubt I set that up in 2005
when I built
Sub-audible, baby!
All that CW shrieking at me at 300 hz and higher was like fingers on a
blackboard.
I drive a vibrator from an old cell phone, and Ican copy things I never
could before. Hell, I can copy things that aren't even there!
Eric
KE6US
Wouldn't that sort of defeat the idea of a straight key club which is to
encourage using a straight key not pretending to use one?
Eric
KE6US
SKCC 86
On 10/20/2013 4:56 PM, Joel Black wrote:
I wonder if it would be too difficult to emulate a bug with the KX3
keyer. Something similar to what
into a lot of bugs on Straight Key Night sponsored by the ARRL
too.
73 Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of EricJ
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 5:21 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft
Don's little audio board is perfect. I use one in my K2 for all digital
modes. Builds in about 30 minutes from parts you can get anywhere
including Radio Shack. Sparkfun.com has a nice little 10K trimpot with a
knob for less than a buck that works great.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9806
Here's a source for the N0SS (sk) tuning indicator. Works very nice and
it's very small.
http://www.wb3aal.com/Pages/K6XX/K6XXCWIndicatorKit.htm
Eric
KE6US
On 10/2/2013 9:45 PM, Robin Bayer wrote:
KA5QQA, Robin Bayer
Ps. Anyone ever try using the K2 S meter as a CWT.just thinkin
Far more importantfor emergency communication is a reliable radio with
over a decade of testing behind it...you already have that. If you are
depending on SSB, you would be better off bringing along a key than
installing someones favoritepower tweak. Or look into SPOT gps and leave
the K2 at
That clears up something that has bothered me on JT65. Many times
someone will complain about someone overdriving, but the signal appeared
to be OK to me. It happens frequently. Now I think the complainer is
probably receiving the station much more strongly than I am and it is
overdriving his
My K1, KX1 and K2 weremaking Q's before your K3s and KX3s were a gleam
in Wayne and Eric's eye.
Upstarts!
Oh yeah and get off my lawn!
Eric
KE6US
On 9/18/2013 5:21 AM, KQ8M wrote:
Yea, well, my K3 is bigger than your KX3. Na na nana na
73,
Tim Herrick, KQ8M
Charter Member North Coast
I found the KX1 paddle to be, at best, an acquired skill. One that I
chose not to acquire. I used the frame to homebrew a tiny touch paddle,
but that was just for fun. It worked very nicely,but required a button
battery that I didn't want to have to depend on when camping. I settled
on the
I had a HyTower in the late 60's. It worked well for me for several
years in two locations. Istill haven't figured out how it worked
exactly. I would sure like to hear an explanation of what those stubs
actually did and how they were determined. Somebody must have written an
analysis, but I
I don't have a K3, but I operate JT9 and JT65 with a K2. If youuse the
K3 in USB mode, then it works the same way as it does for the K2. By
convention, the subbands are specified as VFO frequencyon USB. On30
meters. the subband is 10.130. You just leave the VFO (receive) on that
frequency.
Yea, it's not relevant to WSPR. The WSPR modes are just USB SSB
modulated by audio tones. By convention, the VFO frequency is set to the
bottom edge of the WSPR subband, and your transmit frequency is set by
the frequency of the audio tone. So everyone is tuned to the same
frequency and occupy
Excellent post, John. You don't mention that there is even more useful
information about this on your web site.
I have always thought it would be very useful for Elecraft to post App
Notes of this kind about all their mini-kits. I know several people who
have built them seemingly to satisfy
It would be a nightmare for Elecraft. I do some SMT work on small kits
like the AmQRP DDS and some homebrew. I keep a stock of all the common
parts because I've tweezered them across the room more than a few times.
Elecraft would come to a halt trying to fill requests for dupe parts.
Eric
The charm of the K1 is that it is NOT a tiny surface mount CW radio.
My K1 gets dusty from camping. My KX1 gets dusty from the shelf.
Eric
KE6US
On 8/21/2013 11:08 AM, Gil G. wrote:
I would like to see a merging of the K1 and KX1 into a tiny surface-mount CW
radio… KX2?
Gil.
I switch between keys frequently using a variety of straight keys, bugs,
cooties and paddles, sometimes during a QSO. It would be a royal pain to
have any kind of permanent mounting. I have a couple of pieces of
leather I got from a Tandy store years ago. Michael's also has nice
pieces about
I was using the computer sound card temporarily for PSK31 and then JT65.
I bought a quality sound card emu 0204 for use with LP-PAN. I hooked it
up to try it for digital modes and the results were significant for weak
signals. I could dig 3-6 db further into the mud for weak signals with
the
I used a BY1 mobile for 5 years. It sat on the seat next to me, though
occasionally a fast stop in traffic sent it into the firewall. No idea
why I didn't think to tether it. Try that with a Hexkey! It's still in
daily use in the shack and must be at least 30 years old now. Terrific
key.
I downloaded a Morse keyboard for my Galaxy Android phone. It uses the
piano style (side by side) paddle method. I like it because I don't
have to stare at the keyboard when I send. It's a little weird getting
used to having to tap a space key between words, but it works. A little
slow--maybe
Don, W3FPR posted the information after my sig a couple weeks ago. I
used it myself to remote a KPA/KAT100 into an EC2. I didn't save all the
header info for the post, but it shouldn't be too hard to find it in the
archives.
You didn't say whether you are including the KAT100 in the
I recently bought the 73CNC steel knob for the K2. I still can't believe
I spent $90 for a freakin' radio knob! But I love it, and would do it
again. Totally transformed the feel of that little radio.
Just for fun, I tried it on my K1, but it's too heavy for the wobbly
encoder used in that
The French saw something in us then that we no longer recognize in
ourselves.
If the British had had their way, we'd probably all be drinking better
beer, though.
Eric
KE6US
On 7/4/2013 1:31 AM, Doug Turnbull wrote:
Hi OMs
Yes and thank you France for your much needed help. The
I was a victim of the early regs as I moved a lot (K1DCK, WA6YCF,
WB2PVW). My present call, KE6US, was a routine sequential assignment
when I got the Advanced. I was thrilled with it, then a week later I got
another call assignment by mistake, KE6VD. I was less than thrilled. I
called the FCC
Same here. I spent several hours going through them, and bookmarked
several for serious study. I learned more about ham radio from the
detector output to the speakers than I ever knew. Thanks, Jim.
Eric
KE6US
On 6/28/2013 9:55 PM, david Moes wrote:
Jim:
Wish I had read some of these articles
I've always suspected the computer sound card was a limiting factor in
receiving digital modes. I recently bought the recommended EMU0204 for
use with LP-PAN. While waiting for the parts to bring out the K2 IF, I
tried the EMU 0204 in place of the computer sound card for JT65-HF.
There was
The spec sheet for the Anderson PowerPole Family shows an average 2-5
lbf for mating/unmating force for a single connector. But frankly, I
didn't understand their use of the terms High Force and Low Force
wire/PCB. Nevertheless, a pair should be 4-10 lbf.
The APP spec sheet provides mating/unmating force as 2-5 lbf. It's the same.
http://www.andersonpower.com/literature/datasheets.html
I think what Don was referring to is that a PAIR of APPs--the way we
typically use them--can take up to 10 lbf to unmate (or mate) which is
consistent with the
Use the little retainers available from Powerwerx and, I think, West
Mountain. I always use them in out of the way places like behind the rig
where it is easy to fumble around and knock things loose. You just snap
them in place, they hold very securely, then when you want to
disconnect, just
But it doesn't work in all email software when you are composing. I use
Thunderbird and it works to read incoming email, but it doesn't when
Writing or Composing an email. Good idea and worth experimenting, though.
If I were Vincent, I'd make it as large as I need to compose and let
others
Really good points, Ron. Most ham gear from WWII and much from before
could be put on the air tonight and fit right in, particularly on CW. I
could get on the air with my 1957 Novice rig (S-85 and DX-35) and nobody
would know what I was running unless I said so. I still have my Drake 2B
101 - 200 of 410 matches
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