Much better BDR on K3. KX3 switches preamp off at 59+20db automatically.
KX3 is really for travelling and receiver is not as good as one in K3. I
have early SN KX3 (051) and K3 and plan to continue keeping both.
73, Igor UA9CDC
23.05.2021 2:16, Jim Brown пишет:
On 5/22/2021 1:57 PM, Phil
Thanks for all the replies — both online and off.
Looks like everyone suggests keeping the K3+P3. Since I have no plans to get
rid of the KX3+ I will let the issue quietly drop into the back ground and
revisit in another six months.
73, phil, K7PEH
> On May 22, 2021, at 7:36 PM, Roger
Or you can just program a macro to do all that.
On Sat, May 22, 2021 at 10:34 PM Bill Frantz wrote:
> On 5/23/21 at 7:01 PM, jh3...@sumaq.jp (Keith Onishi) wrote:
>
> >Listening CW in crowded situation like contesting. K3 is much better
> than KX3.
> >Operating in digital mode, you can neither
On 5/23/21 at 7:01 PM, jh3...@sumaq.jp (Keith Onishi) wrote:
Listening CW in crowded situation like contesting. K3 is much better than KX3.
Operating in digital mode, you can neither listen to receiving
signals nor monitor your own transmitting audio with KX3.
(No operating session is
Hi Phil
IMO the only reason to prefer the KX3 is compactness and light weight for
portable operations.
73, Carl WS7L
On Sat, May 22, 2021 at 1:59 PM Phil Hystad via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> Looking for advice…
>
> I am considering which of my two rigs to keep, the K3+P3 or
It is unto your operation preferences.
Listening CW in crowded situation like contesting. K3 is much better than KX3.
Operating in digital mode, you can neither listen to receiving signals nor
monitor your own transmitting audio with KX3.
I have both K3+P3 as my main TRX and KX3 + KXPA100 as my
The question is: If I sold off the K3+P3, what would I be missing
> with keeping just the KX3?
Significantly lower composite noise even with the original synthesizer
in the K3 (in addition to those items referenced by K9YC).
73,
... Joe, W4TV
On 2021-05-22 4:57 PM, Phil Hystad via
On 5/22/2021 1:57 PM, Phil Hystad via Elecraft wrote:
The question is: If I sold off the K3+P3, what would I be missing with keeping
just the KX3?
Operating convenience in the shack if you do digital modes, ability to
use narrower roofing filters, louder audio output.
73, Jim K9YC
Looking for advice…
I am considering which of my two rigs to keep, the K3+P3 or the
KX3+PX3+KXPA100. My K3 is serial number 3799 and it has not been upgraded with
the new hardware developed for the K3S and I have no interest in upgrading the
K3.
Sherwood engineering ranks (with its default
Also consider eHam and the swapmeet forum on qrz.com. Both of those also have
older ads archived where you can search for prior sales of k3’s in their
numerous configurations and figure out your asking price. If you post on
qrz.com, pay attention to the posting guidelines.
Other places to
Duane, other than installing the Elecraft 100 watt internal amp, no!
;-) — 73 de Carl N8VZ
Sent from my iPhoneCarl Jón Denbow,
Ph.D. Director of Communication Emeritus Ohio University Heritage College of
Thanks Carl!
I'll take a look at that.
BTW: Do you know of anyone who has been able to modify the K3/10 to get a few
more watts out of it?
Thanks
Duane
On Tue, Jan 21, 2020, at 10:02 PM, Carl Jón Denbow wrote:
>
> I’d recommend the QTH.com swap shop. 73 de Carl N8VZ
>
> Sent from my iPhone
I’d recommend the QTH.com swap shop. 73 de Carl N8VZ
Sent from my iPhoneCarl Jón Denbow,
Ph.D. Director of Communication Emeritus Ohio University Heritage College of
Osteopathic Medicine Athens, Ohio
(740)
Hi Gang,
I hope its ok for me to ask this here
I am thinking about selling the K3s/10 - w/K3FLA-400 400hz 8 pole roofing filter
Purchased in 2015 and in excellent condition with original shipping box etc.
Your advice on best platform to post it - and a fair asking price.
Thanks in advance
N1BBR
I do miscellaneous switching chores at my remote station with two devices:
a remotely-controlled AC power strip and a remotely-controlled DC relay
board. Either could be adapted to your requirements IF your switch has
digital inputs such as four independent control lines. I don't know if
either of
Hi Dennis.
Have you checked what is available here:
http://www.remoterig.com/wp/
73, Yngvi TF3Y
On Wed, Mar 7, 2018 at 1:30 AM, Dennis Ashworth
wrote:
> My original post (below) morphed into a thread on standards, etc ... the
> discussion was insightful and useful
My original post (below) morphed into a thread on standards, etc ... the
discussion was insightful and useful in defining my solution to question #1
below. Thanks.
Question #2 remains. How do I remotely switch between 4 positions on an RX
antenna switch (e.g. K9AY switch box) via some kind of
It's great to say what should have been done, particularly when the
original design is 35+ years old (Yaesu transceiver/FL-7000). It
is not practical to make a change to all the legacy hardware so any
equipment supporting Yaesu format "Band Data" needs to be designed
to be +12V tolerant and any
Right on Don.
73,
Fred KE7X
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net <elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> on
behalf of Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Friday, March 2, 2018 5:19 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A
I believe that logic can quickly merge into the idea that "the first to
introduce BCD Band Data" will "set the standard". I for one do not
believe that is the best approach, and certainly not sufficient to 'set
a standard', which may have serious flaws when extended beyond that
manufacturer's
As far as older Yaesu transceivers are concerned, their design is
proprietary and cannot be brought into the mold without serious
converters (which should frankly be easily constructed by the serious
amateur).
Yaesu's transceivers were the *first* to use BCD "band data". As such,
it should
Actually, we're talking about exactly the same thing.
I should have included tags. Sorry for the omission.
On 3/2/2018 2:03 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
On 3/2/2018 1:48 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
The nice thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from.
Actually, what we're
On 3/2/2018 1:48 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
The nice thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from.
Actually, what we're describing here is the LACK of a Standard -- each
company decided in isolation how to implement things like this. I serve
on the Standards
The nice thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from.
73 -- Lynn
On 3/2/2018 1:43 PM, ab2tc wrote:
My main point is that the amateur community should move towards following
the "standard". If all devices followed that "standard" they would all work
together and there would
Hi all,
Of course this assumes that the sole transmitter on the bus obeys the rules
as well, which is to be an open collector or open drain (or relay contact to
ground). I am sorry if I omitted that point.
As far as older Yaesu transceivers are concerned, their design is
proprietary and cannot
If all receivers on the bus (yes, it is a bus) were to obey the rules
to have a pullup resistor and a steering diode we would not have the
problem of "false power" to devices on the bus.
Of course, they would fail to work with older Yaesu transceivers that
source voltage for a logic high and
Knut,
This has been a "corruption" of the RS-232 environment.
RS-232 is a point to point protocol, and too many ham applications have
tried to turn it into a multi-point communication. It just does not work.
Multiple receivers will work, but multiple drivers will not. It all
boils down to
Hi all,
I was reluctant to respond again to this long thread, but I will.
If all receivers on the bus (yes, it is a bus) were to obey the rules to
have a pullup resistor and a steering diode we would not have the problem of
"false power" to devices on the bus. This would be proper engineering
With todays microelectronics, false powering can occur with little current,
perhaps a milliamp or less, definitely less than that required to drive the LED
of an optoisolator. Voltage levels required are quite low, depending on the
design. As low as 2 volts can do the trick, and at that level
On 2/28/2018 8:19 PM, Jack Brindle wrote:
It makes me wonder if perhaps the old Yaesu method should be retired
> and no longer used.
If you're willing to purchase/replace all the pre-1990 Yaesu
transceivers still in use .
Either they get frustrated because the connection doesn’t work and no
There is a big problem with this, one that was unusual when Yaesu first created
this setup, but very common now. The issue is that of false powering of
receiving devices. In this day of low power micro controllers and other digital
devices, the device can actually be powered through the I/O
On 2/28/2018 12:42 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
So are you advocating that all manufacturers of ham gear should adopt
the Yaesu implementation as a "standard"? Icom, Kenwood, Flex and
Elecraft may have other thoughts.
Yes, if another transceiver manufacturer chooses to emulate Yaesu's
protocol
So are you advocating that all manufacturers of ham gear should adopt
the Yaesu implementation as a "standard"? Icom, Kenwood, Flex and
Elecraft may have other thoughts.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/28/2018 11:15 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
> THe point is that the two do not work together.
The
> THe point is that the two do not work together.
The point is that the devices don't work together because the third
party manufacturers did not bother to understand the Yaesu design
and take the necessary steps to be compatible. Yaesu's only purpose
was to provide band switching data from
Joe,
You do admit that many amateur products do not conform to typical
communications standards in the digital world. My experience does go
back to my design and evaluation of IBM terminal communication between a
DCE and a DTE device. Although this was not necessarily RS-232 levels,
the
You're dealing with a "standard" that was originally developed for use
only within one company's products - much like Elecraft's Aux Bus.
As such, any "industry standard" is moot. The design is for active
high/voltage source (to +12V originally) and was not intended for any
purpose than
The problem is that most devices (in the ham world) expect the driver
device to provide voltage.
In the communications (non-ham) world, the expectation is that the
driver device produces either a logic low (short to common) or a logic
high ( open circuit).
Look at the data sheets for "line
> But many (most) ham devices do not do it that way, they expect the
> pullup resistors will be provided by the driver gear.
Actually, most devices that use BCD "band data" expect an open
emitter driver not an open collector driver. Open emitter will
*source* voltage for logic high and be open
Knut,
That is the way it *should* be, and was that way in the K3 originally.
But many (most) ham devices do not do it that way, they expect the
pullup resistors will be provided by the driver gear.
So, because of that, Elecraft added pullup resistors to the band data
outputs of the K3 long
Hi Don and all,
Hear,hear, Don. The receivers should have the pullup resistor to whatever
the appropriate voltage needed (within reason) *and* a steering diode in
series with the input. This will prevent another device with a higher
voltage from feeding current back into the device which could
John and all,
This is a problem caused by the "way things work".
The original K3 did not have pullup resistors on the band data lines
(correct by engineering practices, the pullup resistors should be in the
receiving device).
BUT as a concession to those band decoders did not implement pullup
I had difficulty with the Unified Microsystems BCD-14, i.e. the CMOS
inverter IC was overheating.
I eventually received the following advice from AB3CV, which I found to work.
-John AC6SL
From: Jim Miller
Date: Sat, Dec 26, 2015 at 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and
you need their
high side driver board also.
Ken K6MR
From: Jack Brindle
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2018 14:42
To: Reflector Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Advice needed: Remote Station Enhancement
Interesting idea, but I would talk to N6TV before going too far down this path.
The reason
ys, with ground/signal on each twisted pair.
>
>
> Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Dennis Ashworth
> Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2018 2:50 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Advice needed: Remote Sta
, with ground/signal on each twisted pair.
Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ
-Original Message-
From: Dennis Ashworth
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2018 2:50 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Advice needed: Remote Station Enhancement
I’ve been remoting my K3, KPA500, KAT500
Are you sure the KPA1500 will not be able to tune your antennas? It
includes a tuner, and I would expect it to be capable.
I have been using Arduinos to control things, as they have lots of I/O and
appear to the computer as a USB serial port. Those serial ports can be
remoted via software,
I’ve been remoting my K3, KPA500, KAT500 station via the RemoteRig boxes and
K3/0 mini for two years with solid results. Later this year, I want to make
several enhancements, including the replacement of the KPA500 and KAT500 with a
KPA1500. The amp/tuner should be a fairly straightforward
Back in the good old days, when the Internet was an academic
toy, and the users were friends, the standard was, "Please reply
directly to me and I'll summarize for the list." This approach
should work nicely on this list as well. I've used it once or
twice myself.
73 Bill AE6JV
On 6/29/17
Could not have said it better myself.
I realize that a lot of us get tired of the especially long,
uninteresting threads, especially if we don't own a Silverado or somesuch.
The flipside is that really good information is lost forever when
replies go off-list.
73 -- Lynn
On 6/29/2017 8:09
Sadly, this query and the associated replies were handled outside of
this resource - thwarting the purpose of this mail list. A point of
learning lost.
Bill W2BLC K-Line
--
Many of life's problems can be solved by simply deciding what
we can do without. - John Dolan
Thank you to those that emailed me directly.
Thanks for your help.
Gerald
-
KC6CNN - Gerald
K1 # 0014
K3 # 6294
KX3 # 757
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View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/advice-please-tp7632164p7632165.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
I have been trouble shooting a problem that arose in the shack.
The problem is that while in a qso my kat500 will start rising in SWR's.
I decided to check the system out by hooking a dummy load to the coax
connector at the tower.
The K Line performs as expected. SWR are 1:1 and it sits there
This is a very broad question! If I had no limitations, financial or
regulatory, I would probably get a large Steppir beam on a tower at
least 70' tall. But that is probably not what you are thinking of.
A simple, cheap antenna is a dipole up as high as possible -- no less
than 30 feet in the
Lot's of good info, but let's end this thread now in the interest of reducing
email overload for others, as it has certainly exceeded the near term posting
volume limit for a single topic.
73,
Eric
Moderate Moderator
/elecraft.com/
com>
To:"elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [Elecraft] Advice on First HF Antenna
Message-ID:<01dc4aef-3cde-46a6-802f-50e1cd517...@mac.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I am pretty new ham and a brand new KX3/PX3 owner excited to try my h
I think that should be 65 feet.
73 -- Lynn
On 12/7/2015 9:22 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
How long is a half-wave dipole?
L = 468/F, where L is in inches and F is in MHz
40m band F=7.2 MHz, L = 65 inches
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home:
I am pretty new ham and a brand new KX3/PX3 owner excited to try my hand at
DX'ing! If you were buying your first HF base antenna, primarily looking for
performance on 20 and 40 meters, what would you recommend? Also, what do you
suggest as a high performance field antenna for QRP?
Thank
Craig
Do you have the real estate to have dipoles up or are you limited in space?
Tnx
Gerald KC6CNN
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post:
How much money do you want to spend?
Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ
Owner - Operator
Big Signal Ranch – K9ZC
Staunton, Illinois
Owner – Operator
Villa Grand Piton - J68HZ
Soufriere, St. Lucia W.I.
Rent it: www.VillaGrandPiton.com
email:
Craig,
For a first HF antenna, I would suggest not buying but building your basic
antenna. A Half-Wave wire antenna (made from stranded copper wire from a
"big box" store) that is resonant (trimmed to the right length) at the
frequency you want to operate is both fundamental and highly effective.
Message --
From: "CRAIG SCHROEDER" <craigschroe...@mac.com>
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: 12/7/2015 5:13:22 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Advice on First HF Antenna
I am pretty new ham and a brand new KX3/PX3 owner excited to try my
han
.
Best of luck, and WELCOME to Ham Radio and Elecraft.
73 Milverton / W9MMS.
From: CRAIG SCHROEDER <craigschroe...@mac.com>
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, December 7, 2015 4:13 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Advice on Fir
Wire antennas are flexible, work well and are incredibly inexpensive.
Put up as many as you can as big as you can. If they stay up, they were
too small.
73 -- Lynn
On 12/7/2015 2:13 PM, CRAIG SCHROEDER wrote:
I am pretty new ham and a brand new KX3/PX3 owner excited to try my hand at
Hi Gerald,
I own a large lot with 2 tall trees that could accommodate an 80 meter dipole,
and with the cooperation of a friendly neighbor, I could fit 160 meters using
his large tree across the back of his property. My trees run east to west and
using the neighbors tree I can run north to
I can suggest an antenna by www.myantennas.com Look for their antenna
called an EFHW 80-10. It will take 1 KW, and has a low SWR on all bands
80/40/30/20/17/15/12/10 bands. It is a half wave design, that I have had
tremendous success with as a second antenna to my SteppIR beams.
It is easy and
cember 7, 2015 4:13 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Advice on First HF Antenna
I am pretty new ham and a brand new KX3/PX3 owner excited to try my hand at
DX'ing! If you were buying your first HF base antenna, primarily looking for
performance on 20 and 40 meters, what would you recommend? Also
Craig,
For the home station, your first consideration is build or buy. It is
quite easy to build a pair of dipoles, one for 40 and one for 20 if
those are your most desirable bands. Get some wire, and some good coax
and a good common mode choke for each antenna and use the ARRL handbook
On 12/7/2015 3:41 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
Wire antennas are flexible, work well and are incredibly inexpensive.
Agreed - you can afford to experiment and learn a lot about antennas by
building simple wire dipoles and loops before investing big money in
towers and aluminum. And
craft
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Mon, Dec 7, 2015 6:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Advice on First HF Antenna
Craig,
For the home station, your first consideration is build or buy. It is
quite easy to build a pair of dipoles, one for 40 and one for 20 if
those are your most desirable
204sm.pdf
>> I have separate antennas for both bands. The 6 meter antenna is on #2 and
>> the 2 meter antenna is on #3.
>> Has anyone been able to do this and how. Thanks!
>> 73 Alan N3ALN
>> __
>> Elecraft mail
On Mon,12/7/2015 2:13 PM, CRAIG SCHROEDER wrote:
I am pretty new ham and a brand new KX3/PX3 owner excited to try my hand at
DX'ing! If you were buying your first HF base antenna, primarily looking for
performance on 20 and 40 meters, what would you recommend?
Real hams don't BUY antennas,
Craig and all,
You have received a lot of advice, and most of it was probably pretty good
advice. I would want to know a few more things about your situation if I
were to make any recommendations which I thought were very precise. Of the
responses I read, I think the best ones (my opinion)
Simplest first HF antenna is a half-wave dipole.
My first antenna was a 40m dipole hung from trees with lead in run in
thru an upstairs window to my radio.
Actually this was in 1958 and I was 14 years old so had no
money. Back in those years there was something called twin-lead
which was
/I want to operate psk with the kx2 using a computer./
I'd be happy with just CW
...if only that radio existed.
:)
73,
Dave
-
Dave
My Web Site
--
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Sent from the Elecraft
- Original Message -
From: Michael Rudolph mrudo...@therabbi.com
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 8:00:25 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Advice on software
I want to operate psk with the kx2 using a computer.
What is good psk software?
Also, what
I want to operate psk with the kx2 using a computer.
What is good psk software?
Also, what software can I use to turn my computer into a panadapter? If I
always have my computer, is there any reason to purchase the panadapter
accessory?
Michael Rudolph
N3IRT
* On 2015 28 May 19:01 -0500, Michael Rudolph wrote:
I want to operate psk with the kx2 using a computer.
What is good psk software?
Fldigi. It doesn't matter which of the major operating systems you use,
Fldigi is built for them all.
73, Nate
--
The optimist proclaims that we live in
.
There's nothing really wrong with DM780; I'm just accustomed to using FLDIGI.
73,
Barry
K3NDM
- Original Message -
From: Michael Rudolph mrudo...@therabbi.com
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 8:00:25 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Advice on software
I
I have seen some comments recently about six meters and I have never operated
six meters. I don't really have a descent antenna for six meters, just my
80-meter (ladder line fed) dipole or my hex beam that I can at least tune to
six meters.
The band is always dead quiet with the small
Phil,
You'll probably get a ton of replies from the 6-meter / VHF aficionados, but
unless you have some means of monitoring the band, either with your radio, or
some web site, I think you'll may be disappointed. I've been licensed for 50
years and have made only 20 QSO's on that band; 19 SSB
N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com
To: elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2014 12:08 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...
I have seen some comments recently about six meters and I have never
Hi Phil, tune up your hex beam and start listening on 50.125. Also there
are beacons between 50.060 and 50.080. Also watch for spots on your
favorite cluster. But most importantly call CQ once in a while on 50.125
ssb. Sometimes you'll find a dead band is really open. You can also try CW
around
Jim, you have several CA neighbors who worked me from Ecuador last year.
Yes, they all have very good antenna systems but when 6 is open you can
work many stations, including DX, with a wet noodle.
I have been on 6, intermittently, since 1961 and I *know* you have to be
listening to catch the
Ps. Regarding the availability of CW, I think that depends on the time you
spend on the band and the nature of the opening. When the dx is afoot from
outside the us there can be as much CW as ssb. In fact my main motivation
to upgrade from tech was to be able to work dx CW on six meters. But as
To: elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2014 12:08 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...
I have seen some comments recently about six meters and I have never operated
six meters. I don't really have a descent antenna for six meters, just my
80-meter (ladder
Bill, six is a very interesting band. Are you familiar with the phrase,
hurry up and wait? That describes six meters as it relates to CW and/or
SSB. Generally there is no activity on six, except in major cities where
there are some six meter FM repeaters. Other than I know that they exist,
Stewart
From: Jack vhfp...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2014 12:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...
Sorry, Willis, but the beacons are operated in a narrow range of
frequencies well below the normal CW DX
Wow.
Lots of opinions on-line and those I received off-line on 6 meters and the span
from forget that wasted band to those who have DXCC and WAS on six meters.
Not sure yet if I learned anything specific or if I learned everything with no
peaks in the information signal.
But, thanks for the
I am a huge fan of 6m and 6m DXing but the fact is that a lot depends on
geography where you live like on top of a mountain or in a valley, antenna and
QTH.
On the west coast we have far fewer openings than elsewhere in the US
especially east and southeast coasts. PNW and north Midwest even
I live in an HOA infested area, my mistake.
Six meters is a LOT of fun now that the concerns over channel two
interference are gone. When it is open, it's 'magic' to the point that
almost anything works well.
I intend to put up a 'TV' beam antenna (not allowed by the HOA but
others are
My 2 cents: I am on the West Coast, and I have a 3-element beam at about
18 feet for 6 meters. I run 100w from my K3, CW only. During the summer
when there are sporadic E openings, I have worked stations all over the
US, including the East Coast. VHF contests are also an excellent time to
get
Rick,
Be careful who you call ignorant. HDTV is NOT UHF only. After the
digital transition most stations went to UHF. However, there are still a
lot digital stations in the high VHF range (channels 7-13). I can
receive 4 high VHF stations in my area (Fort Collins, north of Denver
CO).
I’ve enjoyed 6-meters since I was introduced to it in high school in the
mid-60s. All I used for many years was a Squalo antenna mounted on my Dad’s
chimney on our house in Maryland. With that and a 1-watt crystal controlled AM
transceiver (Lafayette HA-650), I had a ball working across the
Go for a 6 el one wavelength Yagi, LFA is superior because the clean
pattern.
Noise is your worst enemy.
Good luck, Peter PA2V
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 10:08:46 -0800
From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com
To: elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters
I have a friend that loads his G5RV for 6m but his signal is always
about 20-dB weaker than mine. I have a 3-element yagi that I
converted from a Decibel-Products 73-MHz yagi that I scrounged up
from pile of surplus stuff. The elements were 3/8-inch aluminum
tubing so I added some tubing
@mailman.qth.net
*Sent:* Wednesday, February 26, 2014 12:58 PM
*Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...
Sorry, Willis, but the beacons are operated in a narrow range of
frequencies well below the normal CW DX frequencies of 50.080-50.100MHz.
From Ecuador I heard many beacons from South and Central
bands.
Dave (G0DJA)
- Original Message -
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2014 6:08 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...
I have seen some comments recently about six meters and I have never
operated six meters. I don't really have a descent antenna for six meters,
just my 80
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...
Jack, your idea of lots of CW and mine differ quite a bit. If your CW is
concentrated in the top 3 Khz of the CW band and you willingly give up most
of the band to beacons and don't even miss the bandwidth you are not my kind
of CW affecionado. I
(only available in some countries) can really get under your skin.
Like I said, like Marmite, you either love it or hate it...
Dave
- Original Message -
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2014 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...
Is the band worth investing in? The answer
On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 10:08:46 -0800, Phil Hystad wrote:
I have seen some comments recently about six meters and I have never operated
six meters. I don't really have a descent antenna for six meters, just my
80-meter (ladder line fed) dipole or my hex beam that I can at least tune to
six
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