To avoid the joint in the middle, I've used the all-copper ladderline, ie
not the copper coated steel variety, it's a lot smaller and lighter, I think
it is supposed to be 450ohm (correct me if I'm wrong) it's about 10mm wide,
light grey. I like the fishing swivel idea attached to the ring in
Julius Fazekas wrote:
Yesterday I was getting dupes of the digests...
Today, I'm getting three of each. Problem with my email provider or on the
sending side?
You would need to look at the Received headers on the messages to
allocate blame, and even then you can only really allocate it
Mike-WE0H wrote:
shame the regulator manufacturer sells a 8v regulator that is barely at
the minimum end of it's spec's, but it is good that the K2 can be
modified to work with the lower voltage regulator if need be.
It's a shame that the K2 doesn't work when its components are all in
Oh mine was working excellent last night for it's first time listening
on the air 40m. Heard South Africa and some South Pacific islands on 40m
after I peaked the 40m bandpass filter. The only issue I had was that
regulator that was a piece of cake to troubleshoot repair. So far I
am totally
Don,
Is the 300 ohm ladder line you mention actually open or like TV twin lead?
72,
Tom, ng3v
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 12:16 AM
To: Frank MacDonell
Cc:
K2/100 SN: 4790 with KAT100-1, KSB2, KDSP2, KNB2, K160RX, K60XV. Complete
with all manuals, cables and spare parts. Excellent condition, completely
stock (no extra holes) except for CW tuning indicator which can be easily
removed. I also have a KAT2 with top cover and speaker which I can sell
In a pile up. Touching the keyer and it just died. PSU OK.
What happened? S/N 2066
73 de Ben
www.sm6cku.se
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Post:
Ben,
I think you need to do some more analysis locally.
73,
Bob W5OV
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of SM6CKU
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 8:21 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] My K3
It is the narrow window line. The Wireman #562 is what I bought at one
of the hamfests.
73,
Don W3FPR
NG3V wrote:
Don,
Is the 300 ohm ladder line you mention actually open or like TV twin lead?
72,
Tom, ng3v
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
Is the radio completely dead as if there is now power applied?
PSU is generating power, but is it reaching the rig? Did the power
cable wiggle itself loose?
Is a fuse blown?
- Keith N1AS -
- SKCC 344c -
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
Thanks for all replies and suggestions. I checked everything
I could and all of a sudden it worked again. Don't ask me
what I did or did not but I am happy it works again.
It might have been something with the DC cabling but my
second rig on same power worked all the time.
Never mind, thanks
I am probably am just hearing things, but for some time I have heard what
sounds like a relay switch, just once, in my K3, #1292, while it is powered
off. Is there anything that would be still powered and busy while the K3
is supposedly OFF that could be doing this? I have no other equipment in
THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP AND ANSWERS REGUARDING THE PAR END FEDS.
I WAS TOLD BY PAR TO NOT USE A TUNER,JUST TO TRIM THE EXCESS.
IF ANYONE HAS AN EXPERENCE USING A TUNER WITH ONE OF THE ENDFEDS,ID LIKE TO
KNOW YOUR RESULTS.
THIS IS AT A 5 WATT LEVEL I WILL BE USING.
HAS ANYONE TUNED ONE
Hi Gang
Construction on my 3rd K2 is coming right along..BUTI have a
question: I'm at page 48 of the manual where I am going through the
first power-up checks. I can't get the AGC Threshold voltage up to 3.8
Vdc as suggested. My new K2 tops out around 3.62 as measured with a
Square
Chuck,
You don't say which model you have. The QRP version
maybe??? If so, you don't want to try running 100 watts
through it!
In any event, you shouldn't need a tuner unless you are
trying to use the antenna on a band it's not designed for.
I suspect PAR's warning was perhaps because the
Fred,
It is all relative. If the 8 volt regulator output is on the lower side
of its spec (it is a 10% tolerance part), then everything will work out
just fine, set it to the maximum.
Reason - the IF amplifier is the stage controlled by the AGC, *and* it
is powered by the 8 volt regulator.
Thanks for the quick reply Don !!!
I guess I will continue then.I'd decided to stop further
construction until I had an answer. Just in case it was something to be
concerned about.
Goshseems like these components just get smaller and smallerHI HI
73...de...Fred
Wayne gave us a way to read out what the ATU settings.
Does anyone have the formula or formulae for using CT or CA and the L and C
values to determine the impedance presented to the ATU?
Thanks,
Ty, W1TF, K3 #696
--
Wayne wrote:
Most of the time you'll
The frequency is plus or minus the QRM (usually
down a little from 3630). Start time 1000 hours.
73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100, Acom 1000, dipole
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Help:
Thanks Don and all who responded - I am taking your advice and
ordering the wire. I have also ordered a BLT and I am waiting for it
to arrive.
2 Questions - How do you terminate the ladder line with the antenna
line and what are your recommendations for supporting the antenna in
the field. Thanks
I've a question on the pull-up resistor mod for the KIO3 board: is this
addition being done to support legacy devices or is it the wave-of-the-future
(or none of the above)? If current interface standards don't require the
pull-up capability and the outlook for the future is the same, I think
Hi Fred,
I ran into that regulator issue a couple nights ago. I changed the 8v
regulator with a used one I had here which brought the 8v line up to
8.30v. The original 8v regulator put out 7.61v. My AGC pot is a half
scale right now with the 3.80v level as the manual states. The resistor
mod
It is to support a myriad of devices that use ttl levels such as band
decoders that drive antenna switches, bandpass filters, etc.
A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From:
Ralph Tyrrell wrote:
Wayne gave us a way to read out what the ATU settings.
Does anyone have the formula or formulae for using CT or CA and the L
and C values to determine the impedance presented to the ATU?
Had the same idea: Using my K3's ATU settings to determine the impedance
My feedline is permanently soldered to the radiator wires. Since my
field/portable operation is always QRP, the insulators are cut from a
sheet of 1/4 inch Lexan that I have lying around, but there is no reason
that plastic from a milk container or similar could not be used instead.
As I
I'm going to the Charlotte (NC) hamfest next weekend and would have
loved to have been able to wear an Elecraft tee shirt. Maybe with the K4
introduction?
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Wayne gave us a way to read out what the ATU settings.
Does anyone have the formula or formulae for using CT or CA and the L and
C values to determine the impedance presented to the ATU?
The K3 tuner looks like an L network with series L and shunt C that is
placed either on the antenna side or
Mike Fatchett,
OK, but what happens when you use them with devices that
already work without them,e.g. Array Solutions 6 Pack and early band decoders?
Roger K8RS
From what I understand the 6 pack would require a band decoder and proper
switching levels to switch the 6 pack. I do not believe that you can switch
the 6 pack with the levels off any rig. There needs to be some type of
interface between the switches and the radio.
I would send a note to Array
The six-pack needs +14 volt drive to enable its relays. Power is
applied to each antenna relay to be selected. This is usually provided
by the Six-pack switch or an external decoder/driver such as the
Elecraft KRC2. The K3 alone will not be able to provide the drive - it
definitely needs
I've not tried it yet, but this program might do it:
http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Rec/rec.radio.amateur.homebrew/2005-
08/msg00101.html
The descriptions says:
Occasionally it may be useful to deduce the value of the terminating
impedance of an L-match network when only the values of
I have the beta version installed and now unable to save repeater
settings or freq. to any of the 100 memories
I am trying to save 6 meter repeater's in my area, when I enter and
save 00 then 01 , 01 replaces 00 etc.
Please help
Duane
W6ddr
duanere...@mac.com
Please keep in mind that the L C display tells what is selected in the
matching network. There are stray capacitances and inductances on the
PC board. If the indicated inductance or capacitance are very low, or
the matched impedance is highly reactive, these strays may be significant.
Enjoy!
Roger,
That is where the situation gets 'sticky'. It all depends on what the
circuits at the end away from the K3 have implemented. You have two
pullup resistors on each line and 2 separate voltage sources.
1) If the voltage to the pullup resistors in the internal device do not
match the
I have not used the K2 in some time, and tonight I notice that both 60m and
40m sound dead (all signals are very weak) and I have no power output- I
have not measured with an inline meter but there is nothing on the K2
display. All other bands seem fine.
I have the KAT2 in CALS mode since I use
Hi gang,
The weekly Elecraft SSB net would normally meet tomorrow (Sunday, 3/1/09) at
1800Z.
We start at 14.316 MHz, and QSY if needed. However, the band is filled wall
to wall with the DX contest. We can try to give it a go if folks are
interested, but I fear that it will be an exercise in
HI,
OK I am just finishing up the A to B mod and somewhere at the end between
Misc control board changes and sidetone Modification or possibly after the
XFILMDKT I am getting Low Battery warning and 000 reading for voltage
when tapping Display. This is with power coming from a power supply and
Stephen,
Add a capacitor to your antenna lead and use it to inject signals into
the K2 (AKA Cheap and Dirty Signal Tracing) first at W1, then at pin 3
or 5 of J13 (on the K60XV board), then at the cathode end of D6. The
first place you hear signals more or less of the proper strength will
Damon,
Well, I haven't heard that problem in a long time, but the solution is easy.
On the top of the Control Board, just to the right of center is a switch
to change the voltage display from external to internal - you must have
bumped it in the upgrade process - set it to the INT position and
BINGO!! Don thanks . I suppose once I have owned this for a while those
obvious fixes will become ..well, obvious LOL
73
Damon
From: Don Wilhelm-4 (via Nabble)
[mailto:ml-user+39068-851166...@n2.nabble.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 5:16 PM
To: W4HDM
Subject: Re: K2
It WAS good reading for a little bit, and I didn't really care one way or the
other,
as its whatever floats your boat to begin with, it was getting old. And please
nobody get offended. PSE.
Bill, K3WJV (QRO most of the time, but QRP is cool too. eenie meenie)
As part of the recent discussion about changing the SWR
LED's in the W1 to green-yellow-red, I've talked with Dave,
W8FGU to compare notes.
Dave is the guy who makes the Plexiglas housings for the
W1 and AF1 accessories. See Plexiglas Cases for ...
at the bottom of the front page of the
I've just shipped my first K1 carrying case. It's cute!
You can see it in photos 47 and 48 on my URL.
http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5
73!
Rose
elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
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I'd like to SET the internal clock of the K3 to be somewhere near accurate, but
where is that
EXPLAINED IN THE K3 manual?
Jim/nn6ee
PS,
Even Elecraft needs to EXPLAIN more in the manuals because not ALL OF US ARE
IT GENIUSES!!!
Jim/nn6ee
It's described in the Miscellaneous Setup section under the Time
and Date heading - on page 47 of the K3 Owners Manual.
Bob NW8L
On Sat, Mar 7, 2009 at 5:11 PM, JIM DAVIS nn...@astound.net wrote:
I'd like to SET the internal clock of the K3 to be somewhere near accurate,
but where is that
Whatever you do:
1) Do NOT look at the K3 Owner's Manual
2) ESPECIALLY, do NOT look at the Contents
3) Really, do NOT look under the Configuration section in Contents
4) If it's the last thing you do, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES look at the
Miscellaneous Setup line, which would indicate Page
While on the subject of time, where is the oscillator that is used by
the built-in clock on the K3? Is it adjustable? If so, how? I find
that the internal clock loses something like half a minute per day.
I'd like it to do better than that. Is there a way?
73,
Oliver Johns
W6ODJ
Geez, Bill! Do you actually believe that I think that QRP rules in every
situation? I didn't say that. I guess I shouldn't joke on the reflector.
Gary, N7HTS
On Fri, 6 Mar 2009 09:34:53 -0800 (PST)
Bill W4ZV btipp...@alum.mit.edu wrote:
Gary D Krause wrote:
Just as long as we all
Hi Gang
The trials and tribulations with #6705 keep comingHI HI
I have looked high and lowover and overand I can find
no RFC15. This is a subminiature 100uH choke that is tacked
onto the bottom of the RF board. I have the Qty 4 of the regular
100uH chokes that I'm supposed to
I echo this. I immediately downloaded the manual when I got my K3 in
January and have saved countless moments of frustration by searching.
Sometimes the keyword is not what you expect it to be and having the
ability to electronically thumb through the manual is a huge plus.
73,
Sid K3SX
Were
Fred,
Check the last part of item 15 in the Errata sheet - that explains that
the choke for RFC15 may be the same as the other 100 uH chokes.
You *did* transfer all the information in the errata sheet into the
manual before you started did you not? If not, that is standard
operating practice
Hi Don
Actually, I thought I HAD added the errata. I put a note that the COLOR
of the choke might not be as listedbut if it mentioned the SIZE as
changed I missed that!! In any case, the parts list a QTY of 4 large
100uH chokes...which I have. And then it lists the miniature 100uH choke
Fred,
Yes, there should be 5 100 uH chokes, if you have only 4, send a note to
pa...@elecraft.com and request an additional one. The part number is
E690004.
73,
Don W3FPR
Fred Bennett N9TA wrote:
Hi Don
Actually, I thought I HAD added the errata. I put a note that the COLOR
of the choke
Further to my previous email, I have tried to force a FW download per the
manual, but the K3 does not respond.
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]on Behalf Of W6IZT
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 9:49 PM
To:
Hi Jeff
FANTASTIC !! Sounds like you are havin' a ball!!
I seriously considered the K3, but I liked the K2 well enough to build a
third one. I have broke my back since I last put a K2
together...although I get along fine in everyday life, my hunching over
the workbench building # 6705 has
Unplug the radio for at least a minute then try again to load firmware
Dick, K6KR
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 7, 2009, at 19:34, W6IZT w6...@bellsouth.net wrote:
Further to my previous email, I have tried to force a FW download
per the
manual, but the K3 does not respond.
-Original
I think I was scratching my head over the same choke, the manual and updates
said it could be a different color, but it was the same as other chokes, and
I was not actually short a choke.
Brett
N2DTS
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Unfortunately, much of the ham gear available uses bare, open
inputs and depends on the driving device to provide the voltage
and levels it needs at its inputs.
Let's see ... that would apply to the KRC2 in the parallel input
mode along with the W9XT BCD-10 and the Yaesu Quadra for
Good Evening,
Currently it is cold (26 degrees F) out and snowing. There is going to be
three to four inches of new snow by morning but the storm will keep going on
into Monday at least. Winter still has its hold up here. However propagation
seems to be getting better. Each morning it is
The KRC2 has on-chip pullups that handle the task. They are enabled
whenever the
KRC2 is in BCD input mode. Thus external pullups are NOT needed for
the KRC2.
The inputs are resistor-protected in case the driving device does
power the pullups. We spec
those inputs only for the TTL voltage
To add a bit more to Don's last point, there is a situation that few
folks (especially engineers) realize with respect to interconnect
drive systems. With todays low-power microcontrollers and digital
systems, it is very easy to accidentally power another device from the
driving device. In
Mine was the same as the others also.
Mike
WE0H
Brett Gazdzinski wrote:
I think I was scratching my head over the same choke, the manual and updates
said it could be a different color, but it was the same as other chokes, and
I was not actually short a choke.
Brett
N2DTS
Just got done testing the TX RX on K2 S/N 6698 and all is working per
the manual. Now onto the options...
Mike
WE0H
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