Has anyone been successful in pushing the K2 beyond the 70 WPM external
keying limit for CW operation? Does it adhere to spec (70 WPM) or
differ in practice? Anyone try any hardware or firmware mods to bump up
the speed? I'd love for this great high performance CW rig (or even the
K1 or KX1,
Here's my question - what person can copy 100 wpm? Only a handful of
people in the world can copy 60 wpm!
I'd guess it's a larger group than you might think -- though I'd agree
those folks are few and far between. I've run into a handful than can
copy 100, and I remember about 10 years ago I
Color me skeptical. I wonder if it is a mind reading trick. I wonder
how accurate a computer sending CW would be at 100 wpm -- or how well
it would sound passing through a repeater.
Not mind reading (he corrected me on my grammar too), nor machine copy
(what are the chances he happened to
...
have astounded the audience by calmly sipping a cup of coffee then lighting
an cigarette while the transmission blasted away before sitting down at the
mill (typewriter with all cap letters specifically for copying CW). Then he
is reported to have kept typing 15 minutes after the
Darn it, why is it that I just always manage to buy a new gadget the day
before Wayne and the gang unwails a new product. I have a LDG AT-100 pro
coming my way and Wayne is about to give a talk on automatic antenna
tuners!
Don't fee bad Erik -- my KX1, K1 *and* K2 all arrived the very
Testing my KX1 with internal antenna tuner... When in tune mode the
LED says P0.4 -- does this mean 0.4 watts or 4 watts?
--Andrew, NV1B
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0.4W ...
I was afraid of that -- I recalibrated the tuner with a 50 ohm dummy
load and now it's showing 1.9 W when running on batteries, which sounds
correct. I will further calibrate when I have access to a known
accurate wattmeter.
Thank you for clarifying.
--Andrew
I recently finished my KX-1 and installed the ATU board only to find that my
ouput is only about 0.9 watts on 40 and 0.2 on 20.
I had a similar problem in my recently completed KX1. I solved it by
redoing the step in which you null the voltage reading from the trimmer
cap (step says to set
On Tue, 2005-03-08 at 21:40 -0800, wayne burdick wrote:
The Elecraft QSO Party -- pre-announced in January -- will indeed be
happening this weekend from 1500 UTC Saturday (March 12) to 1500
Sunday.
If anyone in the southeastern NH area -- say within 20 miles of
Portsmouth NH -- will be
The best way to remove components is to destroy the component
I once had to remove a SIP resister from a K2 and found that by first
soldering a discarded component lead right along all pins (8 or 10, I
think), the heat was transferred to the entire row of pins at once,
which made removal much
I'm looking for designs for an RF amp for my K2. Can anyone point me to
a design? I plan to use it for CW only, 40 meters only, and roughly 75
watts output. Solid state preferred but not required. I'd like to keep
it external to my K2 so I can keep the K2 in its QRP flavor.
Thanks,
--Andrew,
I'm in the process of aligning the transmitter on my K2 #4778.
The manual says to peak pairs of slug tuned coils and variable
capacitors on the various bands, with the power control set to 2.0
watts.
There is no peak as I dial the slug tuned coils around -- just an
increased power in one
Thanks List -- tx successfully aligned.
Proceeding with final assembly.
--Andrew
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KAT2 manual, Rev D, March 22 2001:
Page 6 instructs me to install standoffs at each end of the Control
board -- on the component side -- with the split lock washer between the
standoff and the PC board, and screws coming up from the non-component
side:
I standoff
I
I
-- lockwasher
PC
I don't have an exte
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Help:
I just finished building the KAT2 internal auto antenna tuner for my K2.
I don't yet have access to an external wattmeter, or RF probe, so I'm
wondering: are the last couple alignment / calibration steps necessary
for operation of the KAT2, or will the KAT2 still reach a proper match
even if SWR
When I use the K2's XFIL button to change the filter bandwidth, the
pitch of the received signal changes slightly (+/- 10 kHz) from one to
the next. What's the explanation?
Thanks,
--Andrew
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I used Spectrogram to set up my K2's filters. When lining up the
frequency peak with the marker for my preferred sidetone (650 Hz in my
case), the typical display shows the usual bandwidth shape, plus a
relatively sharp (and very narrow bandwidth) spike slightly offset from
the center of the
It appears you already have it set correctly. You want the center of the
passband (not an errant peak) to be over the frequency marker.
Now, this having been said, that sharp peak you illustrated, is it there
ALL THE TIME? If so, that's very unusual... and it might indicate that
The
Freshly built K1-4 #1994 (bought it 1.5 months ago). Bought the K1, K2
and KX1, and decided the KX1 best fits my needs (except for QRO QRQ
CW... so I'm not letting the K2 go just yet...!)
I'm offering my K1 configured as follows:
K1-4 #1994 (current) built for 40, 30, 20 and 17 meters
KFL1-2
I have an application that involves remotely locating the K2's shaft
encoder (Z1) and liquid crystal display components (the backlit LEDs D2
and D3, and the 8 digit LCD, DS1). The extension length is roughly 10
or 15 feet. Are the signals likely to degrade much? I'd plan on using
shielded wires
This is a nice rig, and very much
up to my expectation, although the temptation to lie on the couch with a
wire hung over the curtain rod and tune around is great!
Hey, what's wrong with *that*?! This great little rig makes it
possible.
Stronger signals can
be detected on the wrong side
We're moving! I'm selling off the bulky things.
I'm keeping only the tiny KX1.
All items are about 2 months old, if not less, and in near-new
condition, if not mint.
All prices include shipping and insurance!
For Elecraft items I've basically taken the new price and donated the
time/effort/cost
(added the ic-2200)
We're moving! I'm selling off the bulky things.
I'm keeping only the tiny KX1.
All items are about 2 months old, if not less, and in near-new
condition, if not mint.
All prices include shipping and insurance!
For Elecraft items I've basically taken the new price and donated
Hope I'm right here... or am I missing something?
---
KAT2 antenna tuner instructions (Rev D, March 22 2001), page 12:
The K2's AUX RF connector (RF-P6) is the same type
used for the internal battery connector (RF-P3).
To avoid damage to the ATU or to the K2, add some
Elecraft unveiled their solid-state 800-watt all band (160-10) amp
I'm sure the answers will be here soon enough, but in the meantime,
any idea on input/drive levels, and corresponding output levels? I'm
thinking about how it might work with the Elecraft rigs.
--Andrew
I will pay for shipping and insurance on all items.
All items are mint or as-new and about 2 months old.
For the K1:
$60 KFL1-2 board for 40/80 meters, new/unbuilt
$44 KBT1 battery option, new/unbuilt
For the K2:
$160KAT2 tuner, assembled/tested
$40 KNB2 noise blanker,
I'm trying to find specifications on the 3 digital LCD used on the
Elecraft K1, since I'm working on a custom application that involves
changing it over to a 3 digital LED.
Can someone provide the manufacturer and model information on this
display so I can locate the specs?
Thanks,
--Andrew,
By the way, this occurs both on battery power and external 13.8 VDC. On
batteries the output power was about 400 mW and on 12 VDC it was about 4 W.
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Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Andrew Moore
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 8:12 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 spot function is off
I've built and calibrated K2 #4958. If I use the spot function
to tune to the exact
Problem: My KAT1 tuner is not displaying the r8.5 test string when in Tune
mode with ATU menu entry set to F1.3, as the manual says it should during the
testing phase.
Background: Recently built K1 #2054 (Rev E RF board) with 40/30 meter board,
working fine. Built and installed noise blanker
Strange! Before the KX1 came out, the K1 was generally acknowledged as
the best multi-band backpacking rig available. It is no less suitable for
that
task today.
There's nothing strange about a product evolving to improve in some ways while
the old one remains suitable to task. Those
For Sale:
K1 #2054 (recent), careful build, original owner.
Comes with:
- KFL1-2 filter board built for 30 and 40 meters
- KAT1 automatic antenna tuner
- KNB1 noise blanker
Works perfectly. $395 includes shipping.
Also available:
KBT1 battery kit, new/unbuilt, $40 includes shipping
KFL1-2
For Sale:
Radio Shack #22-504 regulated, linear power supply.
13.8 VDC at 3 amps continuous.
Mint / perfect condition.
Original owner, bought it new a couple months ago to build up a K1 and K2.
$30 plus $5 to ship.
Photo available upon request.
--Andrew
Any suggestions for cabling between a K2 front panel and the rest of its body
for distances of around 10 feet? I suspect that many signals are such low
frequency that I don't need to be too concerned, but what signals might need
special attention? (shielded twisted pair, coax, ...) -- any
Any suggestions for cabling between a K2 front panel and the rest of its body
for distances of around 5 to 10 feet? I suspect that many signals are such ow
frequency that I don't need to be too concerned, but what signals might need
special attention? (shielded twisted pair, coax, ...) -- any
Isn't there a mode to not actually transmit?
Yes. Hold the KX1's Band/Speed button to bring up the keying speed. As long
as you're in the speed display, the transmitter is disabled.
--Andrew, NV1B
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I could use a suggestion or twoI live in a very congested areamy
house
is 11 foot wide and 25 feet long...with a yard that is 10 feel deepI have
a
10 by 10 deck on the second floor.
For limited space installations I've been amazed at how much a simple longwire
with a
I'm very interested in hearing responses to solar setups for use with
the K2 and would appreciate seeing replies shared on the list, if it's
not considered too off-topic.
Thanks,
--Andrew
On Tue, Mar 18, 2008 at 3:32 PM, Kenneth A. Christiansen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
I got into some wrong
I would like to cover the top of my wooden workbench
with something to both protect the top and radios
I'm working on. Something anti-static would be ideal.
Any ideas out there?
If you're trying to protect a nice finish underneath, a couple warnings:
1) some rubber mats might an
Sorry to spam the lists with this but I figure there are lots of CW
ops here who might have what I'm looking for.
I picked up a set of V2L paddles (by Stan, W9WBL) but they didn't
include the page that describes the physics/forces behind the design.
I'd like to have a copy of this to stick with
Idiom Press CMOS4 keyer.
I bought it new a few months ago, assembled it and then sold the rig
(Corsair I) that I was going to use it with.
It's barely used, perfect condition. High quality build (I have loads
of soldering experience, EE, etc.)
$75 shipped.
The pair of Ten-Tec 263 VFOs I posted earlier have been sold.
--Andrew
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The CMOS4 keyer that I posted earlier has been claimed.
--Andrew
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Posting to these three lists in hopes that a homebrewer / tinkerer
type might be interested.
I have two of the following Hammond heavy duty, 19-inch desktop racks,
each 6U height, never used. Couple scratches on the underside surface
where I slid them on another surface, otherwise new cond.
Just been playing with a K2 which was sent if for repair of the QRP PA.
The K2 seems to have a funny keying characteristic. On cw the keying
characteristic seems quite poor at high speeds. I notice too that if one
Just a random through but maybe check the T-R delay in the menus... I think
mine
Some bits I don't need: All are assembled and unused:
EC1 enclosure - $30 shipped
EC2 enclosure - $45 shipped
AT1 step attenuator (41 dB, HF/VHF) - $35
Tek 2246 scope $400 used a couple hours after new-in-box, comes w/19-inch
rack mount
PayPal accepted.
Email off list
--Andrew
Maybe I am blind but I have been reading the factory manual and also the
nifty manual that came with my K2 that arrived yesterday morning and I am
really enchanted with it but I can't find anywhere how to change the CW
keyer speed,I am a qsk op and I need to set it up faster,can anyone tell me
the K3 has more than enough speed for any high or slow cw operator
I have to disagree: Or maybe it depends on what he is high on.
Same here. For a high speed op, 50 can be limiting (such as built-in top
speed on the K2). With external keying the K2 can do about 70 but I'd love
to see that
... but how many of them will be able to TRANSMITT 70 wpm with his fist
and
a paddle ? Sure NONE.!
Right. We need to differentiate between internal and external keying here.
The problem really isn't 50 WPM on an internal keyer while using a paddle --
I agree it's rare (but not impossible)
I just can't seem to decide between the KX1 and the K1. And, no, I can't
buy both.
I went through the same motions. Many times. I'm about to go through it
again.
In a nutshell, IME:
K1
- analog soul sound not found in 99% of radios. Can't explain it.
- insanely quiet receiver
- Simple
The only advantage the KX1 has over the K1 is the small size and the
ability to operate on the phone bands, cross mode, of course
In my experience KX1 also has an edge in:
- speed of setup (time taken to get on the air)
- easy of battery operation battery changes.
In a nutshell, KX1 saves
I have three new/unused Elecraft enclosures I no longer need.
EC1 enclosure $40 shipped (2 avail @40 ea)
Matches K1
EC2 enclosure $50 shipped
Matches K2
Elecraft prices are $50 and $60 respectively, plus shipping.
Take all three for $100 shipped.
--Andrew
but still have some on the top. I'm trying to salvage the IC (product
detector) so am begging for advice on how to successfully free up the
solder from the top of the board. This is an 8 pin DIP.
You run the risk of damaging PCB pads if you try to extract it all at once.
It might be worth
Off topic a bit but I think quite a few guys would like to improve their
code speed...
I read in the Hints es Kinks of QST Feb 08 a tip on using MP3 player using
downloaded mp files from W1AW...sounds good so far. I downloaded the mp3
files from W1AW into iTunes library and did sync with
I am curious about the 2D fasteners that Elecraft uses. Who makes them and
can they be purchased in larger sizes? Or, are they something the E
dreamed up?
Elecraft buys them from another source. Elecraft doesn't sell them,
but last time I inquired about this (a couple years ago) they were
Has anyone ever used an Alpha Delta DX40-20 antenna?
Not me but for what it's worth I've used the DX-40 for the past three
years and *highly* recommend it. Well made. rugged, reliable, great
performer.
I had best results when I used it in a flat-top, non inverted vee
format, about 50 feet off
Has anyone ever used an Alpha Delta DX40-20 antenna?
Not me but for what it's worth I've used the DX-40 for the past three
(sorry -- I meant to reply off-list)
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When operating CW the
fan turns on high during every transmission and the heat sink gets hot to
the touch. I'm a ragchewer so my transmissions do run to several minutes
and, regardless of power setting, the fan will kick on high after several
minutes of transmitting.
...
Does anyone have an
You may order a spare through Elecraft by sending your reqeust in the
comments field when you placed your order for the KPA100 and K60XV.
I cna't remember the price but I want to say it was around $3 or so.
Yes, I blew mine up too... and ordered another spare for future use.
--Andrew
I just
Can someone give me the PC board dimensions of the DL1 and N-Gen mini-modules?
Didn't see them in the manuals. I'm planning an enclosure for some accessories
in advance of ordering these kits.
Please email off-list.
Thanks,
--Andrew, NV1B
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KAT2 rev D manual, page 12.
Step says
Secure the L-C board to the Control board standoffs using two 4-40 screws and
two #4 split lock washers. These lock washers go between the standoffs and the
PC board, not between the PC board and screws as on the control board.
---
However, page 6
Here is what the sidetone really sounds like (using the handy TX TEST
feature of the K3 that disables output, but lets you oterwise
transmit):
http://www.kkn.net/~tree/160/Sidetone.mp3
It does sound good -- and different. It almost sounds like there's
some kind of phase difference between
With headphone jack failures so common, are there plans to phase out
this part and replace it with something more reliable, or has this
already been done?
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I recently noticed some drift on my K2, but it's not happening the way
I'd expect.
This morning it happened again, as follows.
I turned the K2 on the K2 with volume turned down almost completely
and left it that way for a couple hours, tuned to 7040 kHz. Then I
turned volume up to a normal
Elecraft T1-K
20 W standalone antenna tuner, new, unassembled.
Current rev. Bought it last month.
$100 plus $5 to ship, within U.S.
(Elecraft price is $135 plus shipping)
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You must be a
Elecraft AF1 active audio filter.
Bought it new last month, assembled and tested, nice build quality.
I have no need for it.
Elecraft price $60 (unassembled) plus shipping
Your price $45 assembled and shipped (within U.S.)
--Andrew, NV1B
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My Elecraft T1 kit has been sold.
--Andrew
On 9/30/07, Andrew Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Elecraft T1-K
20 W standalone antenna tuner, new, unassembled.
Current rev. Bought it last month.
$100 plus $5 to ship, within U.S.
(Elecraft price is $135 plus shipping
Previous deal fell through. This is up for sale again:
---
Elecraft AF1 active audio filter.
Bought it new last month, assembled and tested, nice build quality.
I have no need for it.
Elecraft price $60 (unassembled) plus shipping
Your price $45 assembled and shipped (within U.S.)
Andrew and Gang:
I want to apologise again for having to back away from buying your AF1
filtre.
No worries Doc and certainly no hard feelings. Filter has been
resold. Best to you and your health Doc -- take care of yourself.
72,
--Andrew
___
I apologize if this has already been discussed or already posted on
the Elecraft site, but:
If I combine a K3 with an XV144 transverter:
- would I be able to use main and sub bands to simultaneously listen
to, for example, 40 meter CW and 2 meter FM -- controlling each
signal's volume
I should have edited the subject line prior to my post. My bad.
Corrected now, to keep things a little more clear on the list.
a K3, KXV3 and a XV144 would only allow you to Rx/TX
on one 2M freq at any one time - so it would effectively take another KXV3
and a XV144 to be able to receive 2M
I accidentally transmitted into my Elecraft N-Gen wideband noise
generator and now it doesn't generate noise. Surprise, surprise.
I assume I need to replace the MAR-1. As long as I'm ordering, what
other parts might need replaced?
--Andrew
___
I know I'll regret this but it's the only way I'll force myself to
build the QRP homebrew station I've been saying I'll build for the
past 20 years. As long as there's a working rig in the shack, I find
the homebrew stuff easy to talk about but hard to get moving on.
Especially if the existing
Current Elecraft price is $639 plus shipping, unassembled.
Correction... elecraft price $9xx... typo.
My selling price stands. $695.
On 10/27/07, Andrew Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I know I'll regret this but it's the only way I'll force myself to
build the QRP homebrew station I've been
I'm sure Elecraft has considered the all options before making (or
holding off on making) announcements. They've got a lot more stake in
this launch than we do. They're running a business with employees,
payroll, and significant investment and risk, while developing a high
performance product
Any new ideas out there? Anybody else have this same or similar problem?
Don't overlook the possibility that a socketed microprocessor chip got
one of its legs splayed out and isn't actually in the socket.
Scrutinizing solder joints won't help in that scenario, and it's easy
to overlook. It
K2 #4958 with:
- KPA100 100-watt section
- KNB2 noise blanker
- KAF2 clock and CW filter
- original QRP top section
- power cord - manuals
- misc spare parts, tools (RF probe etc.)
Covers 10 through 80 meters. Built, tested, looks and works perfect. Original
owner/builder. High quality,
Elecraft KPA100 (100 watt section for K2), built by me and tested, works
perfectly.
Bought and built it within the last year. Neat and careful build by
experienced builder.
$325 includes shipping within U.S.
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If you have the KPA100 option installed I would be interested in hearing
your take on it. I'm mainly interested in the things that you found out
(good and otherwise) after you installed it as opposed to what you
considered before buying it.
Biggest pro: the entire section remains disabled
I'd love for the KX1 to be my only rig - but the lack of noise blanker makes
this difficult in my shack and mobile. Has anyone tried to shoehorn a noise
blanker circuit into the KX1 with any success?
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I find the KX1's CW feedback announcements incredibly useful while
operating mobile. Eric/Wayne - have you considered incorporating this
wonderful feature into a future firmware version for the K1?
I'm particularly impressed with how well it's implemented: it announces the
frequency only when
I am performing a K1 transmitter offset alignment as described on page 47 of
the manual (Rev C, October 9 2000). According to the manual I should
install a jumper between the two OFS pads, disable AGC, set output to 1
watt, and enter Tune mode. At that point I should hear two tones - a
sidetone,
I am modifying a Rev D. K1 board to add the C78 capacitor (10 uF) for 80
meter operation. According to instructions, C78 is located on the bottom of
the board near the PA and 12V labels. However I see no reference
designator for C78, either on top of on bottom of the board at this
location.
to the mounting screw for Q6.
73 de Bob, WG7Y
- Original Message -
From: Andrew Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 8:01 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Where is K1 C78 located?
I am modifying a Rev D. K1 board to add the C78 capacitor (10 uF
In situations like this, the schematic comes in quite handy
I hadn't even thought of checking the Rev F. schematic on the elecraft web
site - that did the trick. Thanks.
--Andrew
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You must
I'm trying to calibrate the KAT1 using an RF probe.
Parameter Atu is set to CLP, and Out is set to 5.0 watts.
Docs say that when I enter TUNE mode and watch the DMM's
voltage with the probe on RF hot and ground, I should
adjust WPM+/WPM- until I see 14 volts on the DMM.
I see 3.67 V and it
I'm embarking on QRP projects and I'd like to find a (preferably freebie)
spice-like circuit simulator to run on Mac OS X. Any suggestions? There
seem to be quite a few variations out there.
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I am looking for an original top cover for the K2. Just the bare cover, no
need for the tuner, etc. Condition is not important; price is.
Am I correct in recalling that Elecraft does not sell this cover separately?
Thanks,
--Andrew
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I currently have a KX1 and a K2/100. I decided to force myself to build a
homebrew QRP rig by the end of the year, and in order to move this process
along, I am selling my KX1. I can't bring myself to sell all my Elecraft
gear so the K2 will stay - though I will sell off the 100 watt amp section
As I migrate from QRO to QRP, I am converting my K2 back to a QRP version
(will post KPA100 module as soon as I get pricing data). As a result, I
have for sale my Astron RS-20M power supply. It has current and voltage
meters on front. I bought it new less than a year ago. Barely a scratch,
I have a spare aluminum hard carrying case which makes a great carrier for
small rigs such as the KX1, K1, and even K2 (just fits). The inside
measures 11 inches wide, 8 inches deep, and a little more than 4 inches
high. The inside is padded with thick foam on sides and bottom, and the
inside
I'm going 100% QRP so I have for sale my KPA100 from my K2.
I bought it new last year and built it myself. I'm an electrical engineer
with plenty building experience, and this was my second built KPA100.
Quality is superb - used a temp controlled iron, fine tip, minimal solder,
etc. I'm proud of
For Sale:
Selling because I am going to build my own QRP rig.
KX1 #1046
with KXPD1 paddles
with KXB30 module (30 meters)
with KXAT1 internal auto tuner
Clean, high quality build.
Original owner. Works perfectly,
on 20/30/40 meters.
Comes with all documentation.
$450 plus shipping at actual
Going 100% QRP so I'm selling my 100 watt K2 station.
For sale:
- K2 #4958
- QRP top cover
- 100 watt top cover (KPA100)
- noise blanker (KNB2)
- audio filter clock (KAF2)
- Astron RS-20M power supply (A/V meters)
- docs, manuals
Very high quality construction soldering job. This is my third
Elenco XP-20 precision regulated power supply, variable,
1.2 to 15 volts. Powers my K2 and KX1 just fine on receive,
but I'm going solar and battery powered.
I think it's good for around an amp - based on the popular
LM317T voltage regulator which is rated at 1.5 amps.
Great bench supply for
KPA100 for sale, built and tested, high quality build. I bought it new roughly
a year ago. Works perfectly but I rarely use it - now I'm mostly QRP. $350
shipped within U.S. Includes all docs.
--Andrew, NV1B
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K2 #4958 with:
- KPA100 100-watt section
- KNB2 noise blanker
- KAF2 clock and CW filter
- original QRP top section
- power cord
- manuals
Built, tested, looks and works perfect.
Original owner/builder.
High quality, neat, careful build.
$1200 for everything, includes shipping within U.S.
I was wondering if anyone has ever detached the faceplate of a K2?
I've been wanting to try this, and I think a 40 conductor IDE disk drive cable
would be a good starting point -- they should be readily available, and
connectors at each end that should be compatible with the face and chassis
Can anyone suggest a source for braided ground straps, preferably
longer than 12 inches? I need a handful of them, around 2 feet each.
--Andrew, NV1B
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